@@MikeJLee-ye6mz I'm not familiar with that channel and I've never seen a video on waterproofing a cap and ball gun. I did a few experiments a year ago that I thought would work, wrote an article about the results on my website, and thought I'd make a video to accompany that blog post. I'll watch the video after mine is finalized. I don't want it to influence my results. Maybe I'll learn a better way from them though 😂
One of the major issues are the sharp edges on the hammer face that grab or bite into the cap. They then pull the cap off causing jams. Smoothing the face of the hammer and the notch make a huge difference. I'm not taking away from slixshot cones as they are fantastic and give other benefits as well.
again your stock is rising!as I said last video,your knowledge base is pretty broad versus the time you've been at it.which is very helpful to me.iv invested in 10 different cap and ball revolvers in the last 10 months.and these videos are really helpful.slixshots is a name mentioned a lot.and now I know why.keep them coming.
Always been an 1858 Remington guy But got a great deal on a colt style which in itself is more prone to cap Jams by design. Definitely will upgrade to the slick shot nipples as well as a couple easy DIY mods to slick it up and make it more reliable and more point of aim accurate. My 1858 out the box was pretty much dead on at 50 yards, 2 inches high at 10 yards. Great video.
The Colt-style revolver is only prone to cap jams only thanks to poor quality factory nipples on Italian reproductions; once you swap to Slixshot or Treso brand nipples and Remington 10 caps, you will be enjoying it as much as you do your Remingtons.
I've heard people complain about the Colt cap jams, and saying the jams are "by design". Um, false. The Colt is an elegant design. The slot in the hammer nose is a built-in weak point so that every cap splits open. Never any retained caps with Colts like there are with other makes. The groove in the recoil shield provides a path for fired caps to exit "out and down". "By design" the system works. The problem is BECAUSE its an elegant system, all parts must be 100%. The repros don't have the final fit and finish original Colts did, and therein lies the problem. That slot in the hammer nose MUST be honed smooth (smooth as a baby's bottom). The edges of the slot on the hammer face must be "melted" - no sharp edges. Otherwise the hammer will hang on to the cap just long enough to drop it into the action. With a honed slot and melted edges, the design works as intended. Slixshot nipples pick up a great deal of the work that the Colt design is geared for, so they are a very good thing. BUT if you spend an hour or two on "slicking up" the hammer, they aren't required. Either way, I still like Slixshot nipples because they are additional insurance that the firearm will always function.
I have the Slixshots and never got around to trying them. I just learned through trial and error how to cock and move the gun to make the fragments fall out. Whenever someone new tries my gun it jams every time, but it rarely does for me. I also use much tighter caps, which I find helps them to stay on the cones better after firing without blowing back into the mechanism. One day I’ll get around to trying the Slixshots and probably be very impressed, but I like how incredulous people get when they see me hit 6 targets with 6 shots and no jams after they’ve missed 6 times with a jam after each shot.
On the 1847 Walker, polish the face of the hammer that hits the cap. I did this to my Walker and it pretty much eliminated the cap jams. Prior to polishing the face fo the hammer the thing used to have a cap jam about every couple shots. You can also polish the end of the nipples as well. Anyway, it looks like these nipples will also help. I know I'm going to give them a try. Every little thing that can help with these cap jams is most certainly a positive. Thanks for this informative review.
I have always used slixshot cones on my various Colt & Remington revolvers. Very few cap jams. Was always using Remington #10 caps. I do disagree with your suggestion about using CCI #11's. They just don't fit as well. (Too tight). I've gone to making my own caps and will probably continue as even when the Remingtons come back as the cost has climbed way too much. Thank you for your well thought out and informative post.
Three weeks ago I bought 2 cans of #10 CCI, they wont fit the Slix-Shot, so with drill and file I dressed the original nippples. now I can use those caps. Right after that I manage to find some CCI #11, I haven't tried them on the Slix-Shots yet but will soon. I did have one can of Rem #10 and they worked great but they are no longer made.
Great explanation. As Slixshot are not available here in Australia, I use Treso brand and these are also excellent; they reduce back-pressure by having a tiny touch hole so don't need or have side vents; they use an bronze alloy called ampco which is allegedly very good at resisting gas cutting but how they compare to high grade stainless, I have no idea. I get no cap-jams with Remington 10 caps on Colt-style army and navy revolvers and I have not had a jam on well over 1000 shots. I use Treso on all my revolvers except Walker and Dragoon which, strangely, are quite reliable with factory nipples; my theory as to why they don't cap-jam is that the inertial mass of the hammer is vastly greater than Navy or Army models so hammers don't move or don't move enough to be a problem on firing in spite of comparatively large touch holes in factory nipples.
I bought some slixshot nipples for my Uberti and Pietta’s……installed and tried…..REM #10 and CCI #11 caps are what they say to use…..didn’t have either of those cuz they aren’t available…..My cap jams increased, so I switched back to factory nipples and am have better results……the caps I used were CCI #10 and Dixie #11…..neither will work with slixshot nipples, and I believe they even have a disclaimer about it.
Also a Remington NMA guy, interesting that Slixshot recommended the shorter Cones for my Pietra NMA (both the NMA Pietta Slixshot type but also the shorter Pocket Pistol work per Slixshot ). I went with the shorter ones per their recommendation and they are about .020 shorter for the hammer hit. I think the hammer travel is likely not relevant as mine are more hammer travel not less. What I can say is the Number 11 Caps fit the Slixshot Cone correctly and the Pietra OEM do not (loose and they fall off though you can pinch them down). I am going to see if the Slixshot cones let the Pyrdodex pellets ignite correctly as they current do not. I am hoping I can get some caps but I do have 3 left so I can to a 3 Chamber test come January (gun range is closed for December). My 1976 ASP (long story) handles the Number 11 Caps just fine. There is some heritage between the two as they both use the 6mm type Cones.
Well I do appreciate all your work and detail. Never been an issue for me 50+ years of black powder with almost every type revolver and thousands of rounds per year and I can count on one hand the number of cap jams I have had. Tried slick shots when they first came out but really could not see a benefit with them as I did not really have any problems with the standard ones. Thanks again for the effort I am sure it will be a help to some. New sub.
Good info video. I have the 1851 Uberti Navy with conversion cylinder for 38 cal healed bullets, been quite a while since last shot, I need to get it out again.....
Check the safety pin notch on the hammer nose. Often there is a burr left from machining. It can act as a claw in the soft metal of the cap and drag it off the nipple when you cock for the next shot. It's an easy fix to dress the sharp corners.
A commenter mentioned that polishing the hammer face can help. Also, the 1849 has a relatively weak hammer spring which allows the hammer to blow back a bit as the charge is going off and the pressure blows back through the cone. The cap will often fall in the action as the hammer does this. I've seen other guys install a second a second hammer spring to increase the tension with varying results.
@@BlackPowderGuide I've seen Mark Hubbs' video about the 2nd mainspring in the 1849. I tried it and the top spring would not reach far enough under the roller, on on the hammer. Guess the bottom spring would have to be thinned, some, to allow the top spring to get under the hammer.
my caps are DIY with all my BP consumables as I am in Commifornia. but I love how tight yours fit on Slick Shots! my largest problem with factory 10 or 11 caps are falling Off Loaded Cylinders rear under Recoil and this is a Huge "No Good!" as it opens the door to a Chain fire! I have a "few jams" usually solved on half cock? I think I will try the Slick Shots!! basically, I have tried to deal with my factory Uberti's on an 1858 44 with similar ideas Slick shots already have. years ago I over torqued one and just recently helicoiled it to standard 1/4" 24 on my original cylinder. Would you know if all the European replicas are Metric? I would think so? Good Stuff! Love your diagrams! you are in the Trades! Thank You Sir!
Remington 10s are split-caps made as a cross then the four petals are folded in; they take very little pressure to seat and seating is easy with a capping tool. Other brands, CCI 11 and RWS 1075 are the same size as Remington 10s but they are a cylinder and can take more force to seat and if they are not seated all the way down, may take a second strike to ignite. Remington always goes bang with the first hit.
FYI to all, be sure to order the correct ones for your make & model gun. I have these on all my Colt repro's and they are indeed much better then the factory nipples.
For an 1860 brass army after putting slix… it says use Remington 10’s/ 11’s. Some say 11’s are loose but that’s only with cci from what I’ve seen. Cci10’s are going bad for mine. Won’t discharge half the time.
They cost too much. However, they work and work well. Original nipples can be worked on by the bullet head black powder nerd (myself included). Good specs. I understand completely all dimensions given. Good vid. Peace from Texas
Your explanation of the hammer force is incorrect. The hammer is being accelerated throughout its travel by the mainspring. The longer travel before hitting the shorter nipple allows more kinetic energy to be transferred to the cap.
My experience is cap jams are extremely rare but occasionally the Remington new Army feels a bit tight and it pays to help the cylinder around with your off hand so if I had to take one to war, it would be a Colt, probably a 61 Navy. I use Treso nipples and Remington 10 caps and 12 grains FFF in Navy calibres and 20 grains FFF in the Army. In the Walker and Dragoon I use 35 grains FFF and factory nipples. If you want to use Factory Nipples, i.e. not spend any more, get a Dragoon, Walker or a Remington style revolver. (Or a Ruger old Army if you prefer space-age)
I put a set on my Cimarron Colt Walker. The caps either stay put after firing or fall freely to the side when the hammer is pulled back for the next shot. Either way, jams are gone using Rem #10 or CCI #11-both fit very snug.
Slix-shot nipples didn't stop my cap jams on my Uberti 1851 navy. I think the biggest problem is the the shorter #11 CCI caps. I had lot less cap jams with Rem #10, only difference is the Remington caps are longer, but they are no longer made so the only choice is CCI or home made caps. But I tried home made caps to and have same problem with cap jams, again the reason is they to are shorter, the only cure for cap jams is longer caps, which no one makes...... One thing I dont understand is, why there is nothing mention back during civil war about cap jams......
I'll be back next Monday with my results of how to waterproof a cap and ball revolver. Hit that sub button so you don't miss it! Thanks for watching!
Here: watch?v=NEGdt9KXcbI
Is it maybe a follow-up to deuce and guns kinda failed test?
@@MikeJLee-ye6mz I'm not familiar with that channel and I've never seen a video on waterproofing a cap and ball gun. I did a few experiments a year ago that I thought would work, wrote an article about the results on my website, and thought I'd make a video to accompany that blog post. I'll watch the video after mine is finalized. I don't want it to influence my results. Maybe I'll learn a better way from them though 😂
One of the major issues are the sharp edges on the hammer face that grab or bite into the cap. They then pull the cap off causing jams. Smoothing the face of the hammer and the notch make a huge difference. I'm not taking away from slixshot cones as they are fantastic and give other benefits as well.
again your stock is rising!as I said last video,your knowledge base is pretty broad versus the time you've been at it.which is very helpful to me.iv invested in 10 different cap and ball revolvers in the last 10 months.and these videos are really helpful.slixshots is a name mentioned a lot.and now I know why.keep them coming.
Thanks for the kind words! I'll keep them coming every Monday until I run out of ideas 😂
Always been an 1858 Remington guy
But got a great deal on a colt style which in itself is more prone to cap Jams by design. Definitely will upgrade to the slick shot nipples as well as a couple easy DIY mods to slick it up and make it more reliable and more point of aim accurate. My 1858 out the box was pretty much dead on at 50 yards, 2 inches high at 10 yards. Great video.
The Colt-style revolver is only prone to cap jams only thanks to poor quality factory nipples on Italian reproductions; once you swap to Slixshot or Treso brand nipples and Remington 10 caps, you will be enjoying it as much as you do your Remingtons.
I've heard people complain about the Colt cap jams, and saying the jams are "by design". Um, false. The Colt is an elegant design. The slot in the hammer nose is a built-in weak point so that every cap splits open. Never any retained caps with Colts like there are with other makes. The groove in the recoil shield provides a path for fired caps to exit "out and down". "By design" the system works. The problem is BECAUSE its an elegant system, all parts must be 100%. The repros don't have the final fit and finish original Colts did, and therein lies the problem. That slot in the hammer nose MUST be honed smooth (smooth as a baby's bottom). The edges of the slot on the hammer face must be "melted" - no sharp edges. Otherwise the hammer will hang on to the cap just long enough to drop it into the action. With a honed slot and melted edges, the design works as intended. Slixshot nipples pick up a great deal of the work that the Colt design is geared for, so they are a very good thing. BUT if you spend an hour or two on "slicking up" the hammer, they aren't required. Either way, I still like Slixshot nipples because they are additional insurance that the firearm will always function.
I have the Slixshots and never got around to trying them. I just learned through trial and error how to cock and move the gun to make the fragments fall out. Whenever someone new tries my gun it jams every time, but it rarely does for me. I also use much tighter caps, which I find helps them to stay on the cones better after firing without blowing back into the mechanism. One day I’ll get around to trying the Slixshots and probably be very impressed, but I like how incredulous people get when they see me hit 6 targets with 6 shots and no jams after they’ve missed 6 times with a jam after each shot.
On the 1847 Walker, polish the face of the hammer that hits the cap.
I did this to my Walker and it pretty much eliminated the cap jams.
Prior to polishing the face fo the hammer the thing used to have a cap jam
about every couple shots. You can also polish the end of
the nipples as well. Anyway, it looks like these nipples
will also help. I know I'm going to
give them a try. Every little thing that can help with these
cap jams is most certainly a positive. Thanks for this informative
review.
I have always used slixshot cones on my various Colt & Remington revolvers. Very few cap jams. Was always using Remington #10 caps. I do disagree with your suggestion about using CCI #11's. They just don't fit as well. (Too tight). I've gone to making my own caps and will probably continue as even when the Remingtons come back as the cost has climbed way too much. Thank you for your well thought out and informative post.
Thank you, this was a very informative video.
Excellent presentation and perspective. Need to put them on my Remington 1858 .44 5.5".
Three weeks ago I bought 2 cans of #10 CCI, they wont fit the Slix-Shot, so with drill and file I dressed the original nippples. now I can use those caps. Right after that I manage to find some CCI #11, I haven't tried them on the Slix-Shots yet but will soon. I did have one can of Rem #10 and they worked great but they are no longer made.
Remington 10s are listed on many sites; perhaps they are made again.
Great explanation. As Slixshot are not available here in Australia, I use Treso brand and these are also excellent; they reduce back-pressure by having a tiny touch hole so don't need or have side vents; they use an bronze alloy called ampco which is allegedly very good at resisting gas cutting but how they compare to high grade stainless, I have no idea.
I get no cap-jams with Remington 10 caps on Colt-style army and navy revolvers and I have not had a jam on well over 1000 shots. I use Treso on all my revolvers except Walker and Dragoon which, strangely, are quite reliable with factory nipples; my theory as to why they don't cap-jam is that the inertial mass of the hammer is vastly greater than Navy or Army models so hammers don't move or don't move enough to be a problem on firing in spite of comparatively large touch holes in factory nipples.
I bought some slixshot nipples for my Uberti and Pietta’s……installed and tried…..REM #10 and CCI #11 caps are what they say to use…..didn’t have either of those cuz they aren’t available…..My cap jams increased, so I switched back to factory nipples and am have better results……the caps I used were CCI #10 and Dixie #11…..neither will work with slixshot nipples, and I believe they even have a disclaimer about it.
The vent holes are a big thing. They should allow pressure from the main charge to expand the caps somewhat, for easier release.
Also a Remington NMA guy, interesting that Slixshot recommended the shorter Cones for my Pietra NMA (both the NMA Pietta Slixshot type but also the shorter Pocket Pistol work per Slixshot ). I went with the shorter ones per their recommendation and they are about .020 shorter for the hammer hit. I think the hammer travel is likely not relevant as mine are more hammer travel not less. What I can say is the Number 11 Caps fit the Slixshot Cone correctly and the Pietra OEM do not (loose and they fall off though you can pinch them down). I am going to see if the Slixshot cones let the Pyrdodex pellets ignite correctly as they current do not. I am hoping I can get some caps but I do have 3 left so I can to a 3 Chamber test come January (gun range is closed for December). My 1976 ASP (long story) handles the Number 11 Caps just fine. There is some heritage between the two as they both use the 6mm type Cones.
Well I do appreciate all your work and detail. Never been an issue for me 50+ years of black powder with almost every type revolver and thousands of rounds per year and I can count on one hand the number of cap jams I have had. Tried slick shots when they first came out but really could not see a benefit with them as I did not really have any problems with the standard ones. Thanks again for the effort I am sure it will be a help to some. New sub.
Good info video. I have the 1851 Uberti Navy with conversion cylinder for 38 cal healed bullets, been quite a while since last shot, I need to get it out again.....
Awesome video. We’ll researched and stellar presentation.
Thank you!
The improved nipple seems to have an expansion chamber. More oxygen in the chamber. That should make for better/hotter ignition, too.
Worth every penny and so is a set of hardened screws from VTI!
I'll be looking into those screws. Thanks for the suggestion!
What are you talking about 😮
Thanks for a very informative video. I use them on my Uberti, they work great
I just installed a cap post ( rake) on a 1851 jammer . Fired 3 cycles no cap jams. Everything else factory.
Very informative. Great video.
I have been shooting my 1849 Pocket with Slix Shot cones installed. Am STILL getting some cap jams.
Check the safety pin notch on the hammer nose. Often there is a burr left from machining. It can act as a claw in the soft metal of the cap and drag it off the nipple when you cock for the next shot. It's an easy fix to dress the sharp corners.
A commenter mentioned that polishing the hammer face can help. Also, the 1849 has a relatively weak hammer spring which allows the hammer to blow back a bit as the charge is going off and the pressure blows back through the cone. The cap will often fall in the action as the hammer does this. I've seen other guys install a second a second hammer spring to increase the tension with varying results.
@@BlackPowderGuide I've seen Mark Hubbs' video about the 2nd mainspring in the 1849. I tried it and the top spring would not reach far enough under the roller, on on the hammer. Guess the bottom spring would have to be thinned, some, to allow the top spring to get under the hammer.
smart presentation
Dude I just subbed you because of this vid, an your approach to the problem, thx
Late reply but thank you! 🙂
my caps are DIY with all my BP consumables as I am in Commifornia. but I love how tight yours fit on Slick Shots! my largest problem with factory 10 or 11 caps are falling Off Loaded Cylinders rear under Recoil and this is a Huge "No Good!" as it opens the door to a Chain fire! I have a "few jams" usually solved on half cock? I think I will try the Slick Shots!! basically, I have tried to deal with my factory Uberti's on an 1858 44 with similar ideas Slick shots already have. years ago I over torqued one and just recently helicoiled it to standard 1/4" 24 on my original cylinder.
Would you know if all the European replicas are Metric? I would think so?
Good Stuff! Love your diagrams! you are in the Trades!
Thank You Sir!
Which caps in your experience work best with these? Remington #10?
Remington 10s are split-caps made as a cross then the four petals are folded in; they take very little pressure to seat and seating is easy with a capping tool. Other brands, CCI 11 and RWS 1075 are the same size as Remington 10s but they are a cylinder and can take more force to seat and if they are not seated all the way down, may take a second strike to ignite. Remington always goes bang with the first hit.
FYI to all, be sure to order the correct ones for your make & model gun. I have these on all my Colt repro's and they are indeed much better then the factory nipples.
For an 1860 brass army after putting slix… it says use Remington 10’s/ 11’s. Some say 11’s are loose but that’s only with cci from what I’ve seen. Cci10’s are going bad for mine. Won’t discharge half the time.
They cost too much. However, they work and work well. Original nipples can be worked on by the bullet head black powder nerd (myself included). Good specs. I understand completely all dimensions given.
Good vid.
Peace from Texas
Your explanation of the hammer force is incorrect. The hammer is being accelerated throughout its travel by the mainspring. The longer travel before hitting the shorter nipple allows more kinetic energy to be transferred to the cap.
How are homemade percussion caps on the slixshots?
Good question. I'll look into this and make it a future video at some point this year. Thanks for the idea!
Do Remingtons have fewer cap jams than colts?
My experience is cap jams are extremely rare but occasionally the Remington new Army feels a bit tight and it pays to help the cylinder around with your off hand so if I had to take one to war, it would be a Colt, probably a 61 Navy. I use Treso nipples and Remington 10 caps and 12 grains FFF in Navy calibres and 20 grains FFF in the Army. In the Walker and Dragoon I use 35 grains FFF and factory nipples.
If you want to use Factory Nipples, i.e. not spend any more, get a Dragoon, Walker or a Remington style revolver. (Or a Ruger old Army if you prefer space-age)
Or just use an 1858 Remington then you never get cap jams. Just kidding, thanks for breaking it down. great video!
I put a set on my Cimarron Colt Walker. The caps either stay put after firing or fall freely to the side when the hammer is pulled back for the next shot. Either way, jams are gone using Rem #10 or CCI #11-both fit very snug.
*Fantastic, now that's more crap I have to buy..*
Exactly.
聪明的设计
They are more betterer
I wish you could buy 6 instead of having to pay $39 plus shipping.
Its a set of 6 for 39 plus shipping.
Slix-shot nipples didn't stop my cap jams on my Uberti 1851 navy. I think the biggest problem is the the shorter #11 CCI caps. I had lot less cap jams with Rem #10, only difference is the Remington caps are longer, but they are no longer made so the only choice is CCI or home made caps. But I tried home made caps to and have same problem with cap jams, again the reason is they to are shorter, the only cure for cap jams is longer caps, which no one makes......
One thing I dont understand is, why there is nothing mention back during civil war about cap jams......
way too Go
Nipples. Heh heh.