Gaziano and Girling Bespoke Shoe Fitting with Daniel Wegan | Kirby Allison
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Hi, I'm Kirby Allison and we love to help the well-dressed take care of their wardrobes. I'm excited to be here for the first fitting for the bespoke shoes that Daniel Wegan measured for me back in April.
Gaziano & Girling Bespoke Shoe Measurements | By Daniel Wegan • Gaziano & Girling Besp...
Second Bespoke Shoe Fitting With Daniel Wegan From Gaziano & Girling • Second Bespoke Shoe Fi...
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I learn so much about fit when watching your bespoke fittings, thanks Kirby. But please stick to the not so distracting sound track.
Great video Kirby! You know I love G&G. Daniel seems to be humble, smart and dedicated to his craft and his customer. I really appreciate you showcasing such an amazing artist. Thank you Kirby!
Duane Gilbert He’s coming to Texas in January! Come down and we’ll have a nice dinner party. A good friend and customer of theirs lives in San Antonio. I’ll probably fly down to see Daniel. We could all do dinner. 😉😎
This guy is great. A perfectionist to the core. Better approach than the other British bespoke.
This is so impressive! The art of bespoke ( wether it is about shoes, shirts or even suits ) is so pure and humble. These artisans really deserve to be shown to the public. There is so much more quality to get out of a bespoke shoe ( that will last a whole life if well taken care of ) than a pair of gucci shoes for the same price. Same with suits and dress shirts. Why pay 6-8k for s tom ford suit when you can get an amazing italian bespoke suit for around 3-5k ( and a plane ticket to italy with a hotel for the remaining 3-4K remaining off of the tom ford or brioni suit )
Great post.
I don’t know! I’ve never seen a pair of Gucci shoes that cost £5000+! Gucci are just a mid range fashion brand that mostly focuses on androgynous clothes, not classic menswear that has lasted the test of time! certainly bespoke shoes are better made so there is potential for them to last a lifetime. I suppose a bespoke suit could also last a lifetime depending on the material as it is so well made. Only the material will cut the life of a suit short.
I think it depends on what you're looking for in a suit. I notice you're dropping prices, which are essentially correct, so you must have some idea of what's involved in being fitted for a TF suit. Between his team of artisians and an Italian bespoke suit maker, Tom is going to have access to a much wider array of fabric than the smaller operation. I will concede that what started as a $5K suit when he reopened his Atelier, you are absolutely paying for the experience of owning a TF suit. If you really want to get serious about a structurally superior suit, you'd visit Saville Row, I would think. Still, just because he's gained notoriety, you shouldn't dismiss his tailoring skills. That's just my opinion, though. And Gucci doesn't have any connection to Ford anymore than the clothing he designs is androgynous.
Yobo Lion I’ve seen a pair of alligator Salvatore Ferragamo shoes in an outlet store in Italy. They original price was 8300 Euro and the discount price was 5500.
Great video but you can hear the jazz band practicing next door.
I like the videos you produce, but I'm not a fan of the music in the background.
What amazing video!! It's so incredible how bespoke shoes are made!! And the feedback that you get from the shoemake. Keep doing this Kirby. Now I'm waiting for the full process of a bespoke suit.. thanks for your efforts
Made my evening yet again Kirby, thank you!
ianmedium 💯🙏🙌
While I can respect the old school craftsmanship and skill, I'm surprised shoemakers aren't 3D scanning and printing custom lasts at this point.
yeah but that would take away some of the charm plus would make it less lucrative[and exclusive]. A big part of the expense is getting a custom hand carved last made just for you, by an expert craftsman with years of experience. Sure , a machine can do the same and likely to better tolerance precision but is it the same?
Seeing Daniels sole of his shoes just makes me want him to showcase his gorgeous shoes that he's wearing!
I can appreciate that Daniel is speaking in terms that a non-bespoke customer can understand. Learned way more than I intended, to be honest... great work.
Thomas Jung Daniel is awesome. Incredibly talented.
if am honest this is just something that is a little rich for me( full bespoke).... however just love the craftsmanship and something to inspire too, by the way have just left my clothing out for tomorrows work wear...believe in or not, its just like the outfit you are wearing in the video including the T-bar PWC. this outfit ...which without wearing a suit just screams classy, thanks for the video
Thanks, Gerry! Understand the bespoke process helps us better appreciate all shoes!
This dude is an absolute master.
Marc Possoff Yeah. Daniel is bad ass.
Wow extremely detailed!
Great insight for my upcoming Cleverley fitting!
Ivan Wong Cleverley has a very different approach. You’ll try on your actual shoe but without the outsole attached. Allows you to identify any major fit issues and confirm that the style is correct, which hopefully it is because the maker is very limited in the adjustments they can make at this point without remaking the entire shoe. That said, I have seen Cleverley change a round toe to a square one after the first fitting.
My recommendation with all bespoke makers is to clearly write down your exact requirements. Often times I’ve had small details lost in the conversation, which is inevitably casual and friendly.
Whats your take on a bright red sole on a mans shoe? Which you could choose when going bespoke through G&G! To me G&G Has this edge in the industry... and they truly make pieces of art! Whats your favorite house as far as your personal opinion goes if you compare Cleverly to G&G for instance?
Arnold Arnoldsson I don’t think a red sole has any place of an gentleman’s shoe. Certainly not a bespoke one.
Gaziano does have an edge, especially with the Deco stuff, but it is an edge that showcases their craftsmanship, not an edge just to be edgy.
Gaziano is unique in Daniel’s very methodical approach to developing the first shoe. I’ll let you know when I receive the final shoe, but I fully expect it to be perfect.
Hi Kirby, maybr a dumb question, my feet are very ticklish, how do you stay so still when they are measuring and handling your feet. Thanks
I feel like I'm the only one who actually likes the background music 😂 yall need to stop hating
I'm on my third pair of shoes from home made lasts, each time adjusting the lasts. I should have made a tester pair and cut them up. From my previous lasts I know it takes four pairs to finally get the last right.
GRACIAS VIEJO,,, UN SALUDO DESDE COLOMBIA,, DIOS ESTE CON VOS,,SON CLASES LA QUE RECIVO,,BUENA INFORMACION,BUEN ZAPATO BUEN ARTESANO,, UN ABRAZO MI VIEJO
They also come with custom made Odor Eaters that usually cost £650 per pair.
I totally gasped when he cut through those shoe.. 😳
Now that Daniel has parted ways with G&G, will you be getting a pair from his new company?
Wow, I learned a lot from this episode. Great work Daniel Wegan.
Kriby, cannot wait for the final product, will you be going back to London to pick them up?
Daniel Ward I think I should be able to pick these up when I’m back at the 2019 World Championship of Shoemaking in March.
Kirby, at 34 seconds the camera pans to the shoes you wore to the fitting. Those are beautiful shoes as well. What brand/style are they? Thanks
Jeff Brogan These are a pair of my bespoke seamless whole cuts from George Cleverley.
Kirby, any chance you could share the background music? It's been stuck in my head for a while, I really liked the song. Thanks!
Hi Kirby ... I really liked your wholecut shoes more that the new ones ... but in the end they are Gaziano & Girling's
M Rusty Which wholecuts? These are just trial shoes. Finals will look different. Will change toe shape. This was just a “fitting toe” - large enough to allow anything to be changed afterwards.
@@kirbyallison Hi Kirby ... first of all .. thank you for all these wonderful videos .. you gave us an opportunity to see how all these great shoemakers do their magic .. I meant that I liked your black wholecuts you were wearing when you tried the trial shoes .. I noticed that you like simplicity and that was clear when you demonstrated your shoes collection .. I do have a collection of Spanish brands .. Manganni & Mezlan along with couple of Allen Edmonds , J. FitzPatrick's and a pair of Scarpe di Bianco, but each new pair I buy, I try to be different from the old ones and must have some brogue or unique cap toe medallion .. eventually it is a matter of personal taste and preference .. keep the good work Kirby .. It is a pleasure to be one of your followers.
I like very much this video. Would it be possible to give access to subtitles in other languages. There are some technical or specific terms that are not easy to understand.
Mr. Allison looked heart-broken when the shoes were cut open.
Thanks Daniel very inspiring videos and very comprehensible . But if at all possible please could you remove background music. Thanks craig.
How I hate it when they say “link in the description” and then there isn’t one!
when are you getting these shoes bacckckckckc
Arch support is bad for the feet. If you putinha pillars under an arch, it will become weaker. Arch relies on the tension across itself.
Hi Kirby, I have extremely flat feet and badly shaped toes and hence I wear custom moulded orthotics in my current shoes otherwise I am in pain. How accomodating can bespoke shoemakers in general be? And are there any shoemakers in the Asia-pacific region that you would recommend that can accomodate these problems (since I’m Australian)? Cheers.
i also have flat feet and wear orthotic shoes. seoul has a nice cluster of semi-bespoke shoemakers. i am planning to get a pair later this year - cant speak of the quality yet. a semi-bespoke pair costs about usd 450-550 for the first pair, subsequent pairs using the same last can subtract usd 150.
I’m not sure who travels to Australia... Daniel makes a very structured shoe. He could certainly accommodate you. Not really sure about anyone specific to the region, especially the Japanese makers.
Dominic Casey also has a background in orthotics. And James Taylor in London specializes in this.
@@kirbyallison i have a quesion, totally not related to this video. my Saphir saddle soap just arrived but I dont see you talk about any saddle soap before. what is your view on it? do you use any? Thanks.
I would 3D scan your feet. Then use computer modelling to integrate the scan with the shape of your prefered last, modify the last in software where needed to fit the scan of your foot. Then CNC a wood, plastic or even metal last. Can you imagine a CNC'd block of Damascus steel used to create the last, they would be works of art in themselves. #GazianoGirling
can u help me? i think i m lost, i was in the middle of lookin' for a navy suit for war.
Gotta have a good pair of shoes before you go to war in your navy suit lol
Due to self isolating for some time, I thought I had run out of TH-cam. It appears i have missed this section.
what song is this? i love it!
It seems a shame that they scrap this “first addition” of the final shoe. I mean........it’s probably better than any shoe I have ever owned.
The glasses do not fit you :/
Thank god im not the only one who thinks this. My god, they really don't suit him.
Those glasses make him just look silly...
Why not make the scrap shoe a bit better I bet it would kill all the shoes in my mall.
The music is insanely inappropriate for a conversation background. It's way too busy.
Why did they have the graphic about playback speed multiple times? Are you supposed to watch this at a faster speed or something? And why, if so?
Am I the only one who liked to see the trial shoe being cut open, so an internal judgement could be made?
Ever consider reuploading without the music? I can't get through the video as much as I want to, the melody gets stuck in my head and distracts me from the content.
The relentless ass pain.....
Makes me laugh to think of going in to get my shoes custom fitted, and the fitter comes out with a knife and cuts away the heel and toe cap, then sends you on your way.
Is this only for gays?
I thought the music was fine
What's wrong with having Englishmen to present this? What's the matter with this bloody country?
I hope you got those pants at kmart with all the strings hanging out like that. You go talk to any sewing lady on welfare and ask what that says about craftsmanship
What the hell are these guys talking about?🤔🤨
Oh and one little thing, could you do the videos without the background music? I don’t know if others find this but I find it a bit distracting.
I think it's a nice touch but just this particular melody is distracting indeed.
I found this music especially distracting and was on my way down to the comments section to say so when I saw that others thought so to. Besides that, great video, looking forward to the next episode with the new trial shoes.
Great video but the music isn’t required in my opinion.
@@Russell-1 Agreed... I would prefer to simply focus on the dialog; it's a bit like listening to a speech with music. Great video; learned a lot!
Gentlemen - we’ll experiment without the music.
That’s an extremely involved and detailed fitting process, very informative and educational too.
Those glasses don't suit you sorry. If these are the bespoke ones thats a shame
They make him look silly...
I found the content so captivating that I did not even notice the background music until I began reading the comments
You must've commissioned a dozen pairs of shoes this year since the shoe shining championship. I'd be interested to hear which of the bespoke makers you've used got the best fit for you once you have all your shoes made.
Nathan Hulse I wish! It must only seem that way. I have three pairs that are currently being made st this exact moment: Cleverley Baron de Redy in burgundy crocodile; a pair of black captoe oxfords from Daniel at Gaziano & Girling; and a pair of black captoe oxfords from Dominic Casey. I’m super excited about them all!!
Kirby Allison are any of them finished yet?
There is something approaching the obscene in making a pair of shoes beyond what most people could ever afford, just for the fit, then destroy them. It smacks of elitist gimmickry.
i think its a practical way for apprentices to practice this fine art and learn from the experts. he mentioned they use inferior leather as well. this is top end stuff, its not for everyone
@@jezdog3000 I appreciate your point, but other cordwainers at the "top end" get their fit right without recourse to such wastefulness. If it's all the same to you' I'm sticking with my view that it's primarily a stunt, justifying the cost and lubricating the wallets of those who like to be indulged thus.
How would you compare the fitting of George Cleverley bespoke vs Gaziano and Girling?
Zeppelin I think Gaziano is going to get closer in the first shoe because of his exacting process. Also, way more structure and hard countering to the shoe than Cleverley, which is softer and more forgiving.
My cleverley fit perfectly, but it took a few adjustments to get there.
He sounds Swedish.
Is that a pattern welded steel knife at 16:00?
Awesome: making a (nearly) perfect shoe - destroying it to make a bettER one - wearing the bettER one - to make the final one - that´s real craftsmen art
What a great video! Educational and inspiring. Classical music or a more sophisticated jazz would have been a better choice for so dignified a subject matter than that chosen for this video.
Kirby my man I love your style. You know how to dress. One day I will be where you are. Great video as always.
Over rated for people that have more money than sence. I bought a pair of Trickers back in 1985. I still wear them today. Always looked after them. Shoe trees ect.
09:54 omg look at the hem on his trousers! Where did he get them? At poundland? I thought he wants to be 'well dressed' lmao
LMAO!! That made me laugh way more than it should of.
How do you turn off the background music? It spoils the vid.
Price wise I’d personally go for four pairs of the cork sole versions instead of a pair of the finished shoes. It’d be better value for money and I’m sure they’d do.
They’re also musical shoes. The tune constantly playing in the background is produced in the insoles.
What a fascinating process! The amount of craftsmanship is impressive.
To other comments below, I like the background music. I feel it would be boring without it.
Do they really gonna make you a pair of rubber sole wearable fitting shoes or just saying?
What is that thing on your lapel?
I believe it is his Pocket watch chain.
Yes. It is a good pocket watch chain.
Interesting! Looking forward to seeing the end result.
Hello Kirby - I was at one of your NYC gatherings a couple of years ago and since I have really graduated from a rtw designer shoes such as Jimmy Choos and Louboutins to the real ones- my favorite so far being Corthay and I have a Freccia Bestetti Novicento line. I think my next will be a true bespoke - but I have to be fiscally responsible and wanted to ask your opinion: which is the best value in bespoke in terms of price to quality ratio? Thank you p.s. love your channel ... I got pretty good at glaçage thanks to you
Konstantin Soukhovetski Really depends on who you can see. Gaziano is a great value. I appreciate how the second+ pairs are less expensive than the first because the last is already created. First pair £4200 after that £3500.
Cleverley is actually an incredible value at £2,950.
And Dominic Casey is even better at £2,500 if you can work out the fittings with him.
Kirby Allison thank you for getting back to me. I may end up with Cleverly.
Konstantin Soukhovetski Cleverley is a fantastic shop and travels more than anyone else. I’m very happy with all of my shoes from them, and as you know, I have several!
I think the background music reminds me of a porn movie...
Diane Austin 80s porn 😂
It's amazing to see the similarities and key differences in style from GC's and Daniel Wegan's approach. Thanks for the video!
roskes It is!
@@kirbyallison one quick question not related to this but to Saphir products. I have been using them for a year and from my personal experience and from the opinion of all shoe enthusiasts in London, it is by far the best. There's however one thing I don't quite get right. Every time it rains, the water drops filter through the waxes and leave stain marks, especially in the non-mirror shine areas. These can be easily removed with a proper shoe shine, but it certainly looks bad throughout the day if I get caught in the London morning showers. Is there anything I'm doing wrong? I have been avoiding using water repellent since I don't want to ruin the shine but that might be the solution. What do you think? Thanks!!
Something I was curious about but have failed to ask Mr. Wegan on the few occasions I have met him, is if he feels particularly inclined to adhere to, or at least, to somewhat conform to the general style of G&G's brand. G&G shoes have more shape and updated sophistication than the typical English shoe, and I wonder if in their bespoke offerings, which of course can be anything one desires, if they do still try to maintain a "brand image" of the finished product with regard to the look, feel, and overall aesthetic.
Myles Kusab We has this conversation with respect to toe shape... and Daniel’s answer was that he will make everything. Many makers have a strong house style (Cleverley’s square tie; Lobb’s round tie), but Daniel seems very open to flexibility. Not rigid at all, which, honestly, is really what you want.
You should choose a bespoke maker based on your personal chemistry (something I feel is very important to the process) and their capability / craftsmanship. Not toe shape. Any talented last maker should be able to create any toe shape, which is a design element secondary in many ways to fit.
Surely this 'lifestyle ' is only for those who are significantly well off
That's the point u poor bastard
The money? Someone with two cars, a good fishing boat, season tickets, etc etc? They CAN afford, if they wish. Perhaps sell off the shotgun collection.