Thank you for sharing your diet. The insights were very useful and helpful as I am also a climber with a good metabolism and eat pretty similar to you.
Hey Zach! I’m loving your videos man, they really do give just such a raw bts of an athlete that so few people can actually capture in a video format. I was wondering if you might have any tips for someone who is wanting to train for competitions but isn’t at a level where I’m actually competing a whole lot, basically how would you train for getting into the comp scene? :)
Thanks 😁🙏 Well I think the first step would be to participate in a few friendly format competitions to make sure that you really enjoy the competitive atmosphere since it’s definitely not for everyone! Then if you find yourself enjoying it I think the most important thing to do is honestly just watch a lot of comps online, follow along with the trends (ie trendy comp-style moves, slab, etc) and make sure that you practice on a nice variety of comp-style boulders! As for the training aspect- a few core exercises to train that are important for comp style bouldering imo are: hangboard, pull-ups, dips, and pistol squats. I think that’s a good foundation! Then all that’s left is to sign up for more comps and learn from the process!
I think the situation with your tip of the day is a bit more complex than just don't let your center of gravity cross the line. On your paused comparison of both betas, your center of gravity is on the left of the line in both cases. I think what's happening here is that having part of your weight cross that line unweights the top hold. It would be way more obvious if the finish hold was fully a side pull. Also note that in both cases your movement to the finish hold is dynamic but in different directions. When you go with the left hand your momentum goes right until the hand is so bad you can't hold it. While when you go with the right hand your momentum goes up, which makes the finish hold good through the movement and until you stop.
Yeah that’s a good point! Maybe a better way to explain it for this move would be to say that the less weight you have crossing the line the more optimal! There will definitely be more complicating circumstances that make every individual move different- but always keeping this line in mind should help you deduce some better beta!
I'm currently using qubit but I feel the heel configuration is not suitable for indoor bouldering...However, the lack of a large toe patch on the tnpro is a barrier to purchasing it. Which do you prefer when using heel hooks and toe hooks?
Yeah so far I say TN pro for the heel and Qubit maybe is a bit better for toe hooks! I have to spend more time with the qubits though because mine aren’t fully broken in so I haven’t formed my final opinion on them yet!
Interesting that you found the unparrellel indistructable since mine broke quite fast. Not that the rubber peeled of or anything but there started to be cracks in the middle of my rubber after i think less then 3 month and it wasn't my main shoe. Was quite sad since i liked them a lot.
When you say the TN pros are similr to the Hiangle pros do you mean fit wise? Or also stiffness? I am asking because to me the hiangle pros felt way softer than the TN pros since they lack a midsole and the TN pros don't. Also the heel felt very different to me. Anyways nice video, keep them coming!:)
I think the biggest similarities between the shoes are the toes/edging & sensitivity. I think the overall fit also feels pretty similar but yeah I agree the heels are a bit different. My TNs are near the end of their lifespan and to me they feel super soft, whereas they definitely started off feeling like a stiff shoe. At the end of the day there won’t be a shoe that functions the exact same as the Hiangle pros but these are by far the closest thing to them that I have tried! And thanks- will do :)
I wear size 40.5 EU VSR, 40 EU Sportiva Solution/Futura, 8.5 US Hiangle pro, and 9.5 US street shoe. Right now I’m wearing these Qubits at a size 8.5 US to optimize for comp performance, but I also want to get a pair of size 9 US for a more comfortable pair to train in (I’m wearing size 9 TNs right now). Hope that helps!
I’m currently chatting with Sang to figure out whether to try the Qubits or TN pros next as a back-up to the Flagship/Flagship Pros for comp boulders with tiny footholds. Do you find the fit to be similar between the two besides the slight difference in asymmetry? I also noticed that the heel on the qubits don’t seem to have a rubber spine that rides quite as high up the heel as the other UP models so curious if that actually affects things. Best of luck with your training for Vail as well!
Oh cool! Yes I find the fit to be quite similar which I was relieved by! I don’t have any dead-space in either the TNs or the Qubits. Yeah I haven’t worn to Qubits enough yet to get a proper gauge on the heel. Right now it still feels a bit too stiff to make a proper judgement on- and that’s something I’ll definitely talk about when I give an updated review on the shoe! And thanks!! 🙏
@@richardsonsclimbing that’s great to know, thanks! In that case, gonna hold off on telling them which I’ll try next until your updated review. Really looking for the best complement for those tricky jibs that benefit from having both sensitivity and support 😂. I saw you’re planning to try some other UP shoes as well, so happy to message or “nerd out” further about comparing to their softer models (Flagships/Pros, Souped, Leopard)! I’m not going, but do have some friends going to Vail so will also be tuning in to cheer you all on 📣
Hmm that’s a tricky one- I guess I would say try to minimize the number of swings in your setup before you actually launch on the lachet, that way you save your forearms a bit of stress! Other than that you just have to pace yourself which can be frustrating for sure!
so how wide is the toe box in comparisson to the vsr and how wide is the heel in comparisson to the vsr? I mean when i tried the solutions it just hurt mu feet because how small of toebox it is
I think the toe box & heel are slightly narrower than the VSRs, and maybe a bit similar to the solutions in that regard! Honestly the VSRs were great for being a wider feeling shoe that was still snug enough. And I think that also contributes to them being the most comfortable shoe I’ve ever worn.
Definitely want to try the flagships- but the UP rep told me they don’t have any FSPs in the Canadian warehouse to ship to me for free, so I’ll start by trying the regular flagships which I hear are pretty similar! Next up I think will be the souped ups but will try to get to the regulus & leopards eventually!
Nope! Too lazy! I just naturally eat so much Greek yogurt that I figure I’m good on protein. Then Maddie usually makes a burrito bowl kind of thing for dinner which is where I get my greens. Like I said my diet isn’t necessarily the best 😅
@@richardsonsclimbing Haha but you are living proof of that it works anyway. Minimum 100g protein is a rule for me, as I think climbers dont break down as much muscle as bodybuilders therefore they dont need as much protein.
wait till you get 30 XD man i always said my metabolism was great untill around 30 years old haha. but i did what you said and changed 2 sandwiches a day to low fat yughurt and man did i lose weight easlily. |lol cereal is so non nutricious and high in calories for how filling it is. so differant in calories isnt that much y9ou say, but you can change thos calories to real berries in your low fat yughurt wich give you fibre nutrients and gut biom . just saying. i buy berries from freezer section and put it in my freezer to sweeten my yoghurt
Hey Zach, I'm trying to find a gym in montreal to test out unparallel shoes(especially the TNs). Bloc shop is the only gym I know of that hold them but they are out of stock for most sizes. Do you know where i could go and try them?
Hi Zach. I really like your channel. You and Maddie are both incredibly talented! I have a comment about one leg squats. I noticed you do them on a bench. I usually do them on a higher wooden box. This way I can go much lower. The box is also more stable, especially when you put weights on it.
Thank you for sharing your diet. The insights were very useful and helpful as I am also a climber with a good metabolism and eat pretty similar to you.
Uploaded "30 seconds ago". Have never seen a video sooner than this. Can't wait to watch this vid while having lunch, thanks Zach!
😁
#zachforworldcups
Perfect timing for the TN pros review, my skawmas just wore out and wanted to try a new slab shoe before Ontario!
Niceee
sick design on the tee and hoodie!
love your tip of day:):) maybe you can do a compilation of all of them some day!
Hey Zach! I’m loving your videos man, they really do give just such a raw bts of an athlete that so few people can actually capture in a video format. I was wondering if you might have any tips for someone who is wanting to train for competitions but isn’t at a level where I’m actually competing a whole lot, basically how would you train for getting into the comp scene? :)
Thanks 😁🙏
Well I think the first step would be to participate in a few friendly format competitions to make sure that you really enjoy the competitive atmosphere since it’s definitely not for everyone!
Then if you find yourself enjoying it I think the most important thing to do is honestly just watch a lot of comps online, follow along with the trends (ie trendy comp-style moves, slab, etc) and make sure that you practice on a nice variety of comp-style boulders!
As for the training aspect- a few core exercises to train that are important for comp style bouldering imo are: hangboard, pull-ups, dips, and pistol squats. I think that’s a good foundation!
Then all that’s left is to sign up for more comps and learn from the process!
I think the situation with your tip of the day is a bit more complex than just don't let your center of gravity cross the line. On your paused comparison of both betas, your center of gravity is on the left of the line in both cases. I think what's happening here is that having part of your weight cross that line unweights the top hold. It would be way more obvious if the finish hold was fully a side pull. Also note that in both cases your movement to the finish hold is dynamic but in different directions. When you go with the left hand your momentum goes right until the hand is so bad you can't hold it. While when you go with the right hand your momentum goes up, which makes the finish hold good through the movement and until you stop.
Yeah that’s a good point! Maybe a better way to explain it for this move would be to say that the less weight you have crossing the line the more optimal!
There will definitely be more complicating circumstances that make every individual move different- but always keeping this line in mind should help you deduce some better beta!
I'm currently using qubit but I feel the heel configuration is not suitable for indoor bouldering...However, the lack of a large toe patch on the tnpro is a barrier to purchasing it. Which do you prefer when using heel hooks and toe hooks?
Yeah so far I say TN pro for the heel and Qubit maybe is a bit better for toe hooks! I have to spend more time with the qubits though because mine aren’t fully broken in so I haven’t formed my final opinion on them yet!
seeing you push hard on that blue v8 makes me realize how odd it is. tried it 6 times, couldnt get my palm on that hold 😭😭.
For the TOTD, going up with the right hand seems like you might barn door. Is there a reason why you won't?
As long as you stay close to the wall you won’t barn door! If your hips/chest come too far away from the wall that’s when you’ll barn door
Interesting that you found the unparrellel indistructable since mine broke quite fast.
Not that the rubber peeled of or anything but there started to be cracks in the middle of my rubber after i think less then 3 month and it wasn't my main shoe. Was quite sad since i liked them a lot.
Oh dang sorry to hear that!
excuse me, is it possible to know how much do you rest between sets?
For my workout & hangboard I usually rest for 3 minutes between sets!
When you say the TN pros are similr to the Hiangle pros do you mean fit wise? Or also stiffness? I am asking because to me the hiangle pros felt way softer than the TN pros since they lack a midsole and the TN pros don't. Also the heel felt very different to me.
Anyways nice video, keep them coming!:)
I think the biggest similarities between the shoes are the toes/edging & sensitivity. I think the overall fit also feels pretty similar but yeah I agree the heels are a bit different. My TNs are near the end of their lifespan and to me they feel super soft, whereas they definitely started off feeling like a stiff shoe.
At the end of the day there won’t be a shoe that functions the exact same as the Hiangle pros but these are by far the closest thing to them that I have tried!
And thanks- will do :)
hey zach, do you have any advice on downsizing the tns and the qubits??
I wear size 40.5 EU VSR, 40 EU Sportiva Solution/Futura, 8.5 US Hiangle pro, and 9.5 US street shoe.
Right now I’m wearing these Qubits at a size 8.5 US to optimize for comp performance, but I also want to get a pair of size 9 US for a more comfortable pair to train in (I’m wearing size 9 TNs right now).
Hope that helps!
@@richardsonsclimbing Thanks!
I’m currently chatting with Sang to figure out whether to try the Qubits or TN pros next as a back-up to the Flagship/Flagship Pros for comp boulders with tiny footholds. Do you find the fit to be similar between the two besides the slight difference in asymmetry? I also noticed that the heel on the qubits don’t seem to have a rubber spine that rides quite as high up the heel as the other UP models so curious if that actually affects things.
Best of luck with your training for Vail as well!
Oh cool! Yes I find the fit to be quite similar which I was relieved by! I don’t have any dead-space in either the TNs or the Qubits.
Yeah I haven’t worn to Qubits enough yet to get a proper gauge on the heel. Right now it still feels a bit too stiff to make a proper judgement on- and that’s something I’ll definitely talk about when I give an updated review on the shoe!
And thanks!! 🙏
@@richardsonsclimbing that’s great to know, thanks! In that case, gonna hold off on telling them which I’ll try next until your updated review. Really looking for the best complement for those tricky jibs that benefit from having both sensitivity and support 😂.
I saw you’re planning to try some other UP shoes as well, so happy to message or “nerd out” further about comparing to their softer models (Flagships/Pros, Souped, Leopard)!
I’m not going, but do have some friends going to Vail so will also be tuning in to cheer you all on 📣
Haha nice sounds good! Yeah it’s definitely fun to compare notes with others on the shoes!
Thank you!! 🙏
Any advice for forearm fatigue/tightness from training Lachét moves?
These moves wreck me after a handful of goes, makes it hard to improve on them!
Hmm that’s a tricky one- I guess I would say try to minimize the number of swings in your setup before you actually launch on the lachet, that way you save your forearms a bit of stress! Other than that you just have to pace yourself which can be frustrating for sure!
so how wide is the toe box in comparisson to the vsr and how wide is the heel in comparisson to the vsr? I mean when i tried the solutions it just hurt mu feet because how small of toebox it is
I think the toe box & heel are slightly narrower than the VSRs, and maybe a bit similar to the solutions in that regard!
Honestly the VSRs were great for being a wider feeling shoe that was still snug enough. And I think that also contributes to them being the most comfortable shoe I’ve ever worn.
personally i find the vsrs way pointier than the tn pros
plan on trying on the flagship pros or the regulus by unparallel?
Regulus are very similar they say to the TN pros , tiny differences.
Definitely want to try the flagships- but the UP rep told me they don’t have any FSPs in the Canadian warehouse to ship to me for free, so I’ll start by trying the regular flagships which I hear are pretty similar!
Next up I think will be the souped ups but will try to get to the regulus & leopards eventually!
i love cereallll
So you dont really care about hitting a certain protein goal or about vitamins?
Nope! Too lazy! I just naturally eat so much Greek yogurt that I figure I’m good on protein. Then Maddie usually makes a burrito bowl kind of thing for dinner which is where I get my greens. Like I said my diet isn’t necessarily the best 😅
@@richardsonsclimbing Haha but you are living proof of that it works anyway. Minimum 100g protein is a rule for me, as I think climbers dont break down as much muscle as bodybuilders therefore they dont need as much protein.
An important element is age too. I think he will need to make significant adjustments sooner or later.
Yeah for sure- I probably should have said that in the video!
wait till you get 30 XD man i always said my metabolism was great untill around 30 years old haha.
but i did what you said and changed 2 sandwiches a day to low fat yughurt and man did i lose weight easlily.
|lol cereal is so non nutricious and high in calories for how filling it is.
so differant in calories isnt that much y9ou say, but you can change thos calories to real berries in your low fat yughurt wich give you fibre nutrients and gut biom . just saying. i buy berries from freezer section and put it in my freezer to sweeten my yoghurt
Yeah haha I know I can’t get away with these habits forever, and I’ll have to be more intentional about my diet as I get older!
Hey Zach, I'm trying to find a gym in montreal to test out unparallel shoes(especially the TNs). Bloc shop is the only gym I know of that hold them but they are out of stock for most sizes. Do you know where i could go and try them?
I’m not sure actually! I know UP is hard to come by in the city but there will be some demos happening in the summer!
Ohhh ok thats sick thanks for the reply
Hi Zach. I really like your channel. You and Maddie are both incredibly talented! I have a comment about one leg squats. I noticed you do them on a bench. I usually do them on a higher wooden box. This way I can go much lower. The box is also more stable, especially when you put weights on it.
Thank you!! Oh nice that sounds smart, and yeah the bench was a bit wobbly today haha