Hey Charlie. Great job on everything. Couple things to note... 1) I do not recommend getting the neckboards wet when washing the monitors/chassis.' Even with compressed air, it's possible for moisture to remain in the neck socket and corrode the focus plates. I usually cover the neckboard with a plastic bad and just use alcohol and a bristle brush to clean it. 2) There is an internal resistor in the flyback that controls the focus voltage. When it starts to go bad, you end up having to max out the focus adjustment to get a decent amount of focus. So if that's the case, the flyback would need to be replaced, as you show here. Just mentioning it. 3) On the low B+ issue, what does the B+ resistor read? 180 ohms? I'm wondering if that's your issue if you've checked everything else on the power circuit and replaced the regulator. Did you replace the rectifier diodes with the correct part numbers? It's very likely not going to be the isolation transformer. It's either going to work or it's not. It's odd that you have two of these with low B+ like that. It can't be the tube if it also is low on the light bulb test. You can rule out the iso by using a cabinet that has an iso for power and see if it does the same thing. Just a thought. However, I suspect possible bad/oxidized solder joints on R89 or R101. Remove them from the circuit to inspect the pads to verify. If those are good, the only other suspect would be the B+ resistor. 4) I've NEVER seen a decal like that on a K7000 frame. The one that says WGR2570. That's very interesting. They didn't start with those decals until the K7400 and it was WGM2574 (Wells Gardner Monitors 25" K7400). Wonder what the "R" would be. This must be a VERY late K7000 production.
The B+ resistor on the first 25” K7000 in this video tested fine. Can’t remember if I checked it on the second one. I replaced the four rectifier diodes with 1N4007 ones from APAR. I’ll take another look for bad/oxidized joints - thanks for the suggestion!
According to TH-cam analytics, my audience is precisely 0.6% female - I’m happy to add some women’s sizes to the merch shop if anybody wants it though!
Just started watching. Turn the breaker off to the game room if you have a thunderstorm, just having the games off doesn't fully protect them. When lighting struck my mother's house a few years back everything plugged into an outlet was destroyed, even lights that were off were blown. Also I suggest a whole house surge breaker in your breaker box. That reminds me that I need to install mine.
Yep, that happens to us about 10 years ago at our old house. Took out some TVs, ceiling fans, etc. Insurance covered the replacement value AND paid to have a whole house surge protector installed.
Hey Charlie, just noticed that you own or at least in your intro you have a time pilot. When you flip up the control panel out the game, does yours have a square cut out in the very center of the medal. Mine does and it even has the medal plate that normally goes atop it, and I'm just curios on the rarity of the early time pilot control panels with them.
I'm going to say this for anyone watching this, DO NOT ground the isolation transformer to earth ground and or the monitor frame, it increases your risk of shock when working on the monitor on the bench. When it's in the cabinet connect it exactly how it was connected originally.
I was making a bench isolation transformer for testing. Would it be preferable to have the power cable ground (bypassing the transformer) hook up to an alligator clip to hook onto the monitor frame while on the test bench? I think my current (unused so far) plan had the ground hook to the transformer case. I appreciate the tip to avoid a dangerous situation!
@@slinger2112 No, you do not want to connect ground anywhere on the monitor or the test bench! In the USA neutral and ground are bonded in the breaker box. You want the monitor floating (isolation transformer and nothing after it is connected to ground/neutral. Think of how the birds can land on power lines and not get shocked. They are not connected to neutral or ground. Whenever you have a monitor out of the cabinet and are working on it it should be completely isolated. There are many good videos here that can explain the reasons better than I can in a comment.
@overtimearcade I made it to the end of the video, and it looks like you wired up the grounds to the isolation transformer the same way I had (which I am guessing is why @tigheklory made this comment to begin with). While I have the attention of some guys with experience, when I set up my bench transformer box, I didn't have a EMI Power Line filter. I've sourced a couple since then, but there isn't room in the enclosure I used. Is this something critical for short term bench testing, or is more necessary for a permanent installation? I can source a new enclosure if its something unsafe to omit. Thanks guys!
Hey Charlie. Great job on everything. Couple things to note...
1) I do not recommend getting the neckboards wet when washing the monitors/chassis.' Even with compressed air, it's possible for moisture to remain in the neck socket and corrode the focus plates. I usually cover the neckboard with a plastic bad and just use alcohol and a bristle brush to clean it.
2) There is an internal resistor in the flyback that controls the focus voltage. When it starts to go bad, you end up having to max out the focus adjustment to get a decent amount of focus. So if that's the case, the flyback would need to be replaced, as you show here. Just mentioning it.
3) On the low B+ issue, what does the B+ resistor read? 180 ohms? I'm wondering if that's your issue if you've checked everything else on the power circuit and replaced the regulator. Did you replace the rectifier diodes with the correct part numbers? It's very likely not going to be the isolation transformer. It's either going to work or it's not. It's odd that you have two of these with low B+ like that. It can't be the tube if it also is low on the light bulb test. You can rule out the iso by using a cabinet that has an iso for power and see if it does the same thing. Just a thought. However, I suspect possible bad/oxidized solder joints on R89 or R101. Remove them from the circuit to inspect the pads to verify. If those are good, the only other suspect would be the B+ resistor.
4) I've NEVER seen a decal like that on a K7000 frame. The one that says WGR2570. That's very interesting. They didn't start with those decals until the K7400 and it was WGM2574 (Wells Gardner Monitors 25" K7400). Wonder what the "R" would be. This must be a VERY late K7000 production.
The B+ resistor on the first 25” K7000 in this video tested fine. Can’t remember if I checked it on the second one. I replaced the four rectifier diodes with 1N4007 ones from APAR. I’ll take another look for bad/oxidized joints - thanks for the suggestion!
Good Ole Jerry voluptuous
He’s the best!
King of K7000! Love it❤. Big hug coming tomorrow
No way, Mike is the King! If anything, I’m the court jester. Looking forward to that bro hug!
Oh, and I was going to ask why no women's sizes on the T-shirts and then I thought, "Oh. Yeah. Nevermind."
According to TH-cam analytics, my audience is precisely 0.6% female - I’m happy to add some women’s sizes to the merch shop if anybody wants it though!
Just started watching. Turn the breaker off to the game room if you have a thunderstorm, just having the games off doesn't fully protect them. When lighting struck my mother's house a few years back everything plugged into an outlet was destroyed, even lights that were off were blown. Also I suggest a whole house surge breaker in your breaker box. That reminds me that I need to install mine.
Breaker isn't going to help too much against lightning, the neutral and ground will still be connected. Just unplug stuff.
Yep, that happens to us about 10 years ago at our old house. Took out some TVs, ceiling fans, etc. Insurance covered the replacement value AND paid to have a whole house surge protector installed.
Good point!
BTW great job on getting these monitors working.
Thank you for your support! These were a LOT easier than I expected!
awesome video
Why thank you!! 🙇♂️
I called the k7000 basically the Ford Taurus of monitors it's the workhorse of the fleet so to speak
You don’t think it’s more reliable like a Toyota/Honda? Haha
Hey Charlie, just noticed that you own or at least in your intro you have a time pilot. When you flip up the control panel out the game, does yours have a square cut out in the very center of the medal. Mine does and it even has the medal plate that normally goes atop it, and I'm just curios on the rarity of the early time pilot control panels with them.
Nope, mine doesn't have that but Jeff Kinder had one like that.
Installing a cap kit on an untested monitor, if it doesn't work you don't know if it was your work or preexisting problem.
Yes, I agree with this - although a cap kit & reflow is a good place to start if the monitor hasn’t ever been serviced before.
k7000 are pretty easy to fix.. deflection board on those are reproduced these days
I’ve seen repro neck boards but not repro deflection boards. Got a link?
I'm going to say this for anyone watching this, DO NOT ground the isolation transformer to earth ground and or the monitor frame, it increases your risk of shock when working on the monitor on the bench. When it's in the cabinet connect it exactly how it was connected originally.
I was making a bench isolation transformer for testing. Would it be preferable to have the power cable ground (bypassing the transformer) hook up to an alligator clip to hook onto the monitor frame while on the test bench? I think my current (unused so far) plan had the ground hook to the transformer case. I appreciate the tip to avoid a dangerous situation!
@@slinger2112 No, you do not want to connect ground anywhere on the monitor or the test bench! In the USA neutral and ground are bonded in the breaker box. You want the monitor floating (isolation transformer and nothing after it is connected to ground/neutral. Think of how the birds can land on power lines and not get shocked. They are not connected to neutral or ground. Whenever you have a monitor out of the cabinet and are working on it it should be completely isolated. There are many good videos here that can explain the reasons better than I can in a comment.
@@tigheklory Thanks! That's a practical enough answer. I'll clean up my wiring before use.
@overtimearcade I made it to the end of the video, and it looks like you wired up the grounds to the isolation transformer the same way I had (which I am guessing is why @tigheklory made this comment to begin with). While I have the attention of some guys with experience, when I set up my bench transformer box, I didn't have a EMI Power Line filter. I've sourced a couple since then, but there isn't room in the enclosure I used. Is this something critical for short term bench testing, or is more necessary for a permanent installation? I can source a new enclosure if its something unsafe to omit. Thanks guys!
The EMI filter is highly recommended, although I believe it’s less important if you’re in a newer home with modern wiring.