My first cut made over 100 bales/acre which is good but worked us really hard. My wife and I have baled 2960 bales so far. Finally done with first cut.
Good to see you had the bails tied down around where I live most round bail and people transport them with out tying them down and they end up on the side of the road or cause a accident last year one fell of a trailer and hit a real nice pickup and totaled it out
Thanks for watching. I have driven trucks and hauled equipment and everything. I always try to tie things down the correct way. I sure don't want to restack and we don't want to cause issues on the road either.
i enjoy your channel. i have a 326 also been using the orange twine and see you are using blue in yours Does the blue seem to be better with less knot breaking? Maybe im thinking there is a problem, but not really a problem, but to me seems there is just a fine line with the tension setting to keep it right. mine has manual tension.
I use blue, purple, and red/orange. The color doesn't matter. What you want to look at is knot strength. And then length is secondary. If you're looking at standard farm store twine typically it will be 9000/130 or 7200/170. The first number is the length and the second is the knot strength. Knot strength is most important. I run 170 lbs knot strength. But I run oversized bundles that are 7200 per roll so double the typical farm store twine. I wouldn't run 130. Need to run 170 or you could run 210 if you wanted.
@@thebalerman I have been using the 130 and not sure whether it is just breaking I'm going to check the bill hook and the knife. Today I baled and it would tie about 5 or 6 then miss always on the inside knotted. I baled around 120 bales with that senerio and then it baled 76 with 1 miss. I appreciate your help.
@@thebalerman I was looking at some yesterday and they looked to me knot slipped through like it was tied tight but I could ever really decide exactly. I broke a needle on that side at the end of last year and repaired it this winter. I only broke the one needle. I went through the timing and adjustments, I think I have it right. I never could see why the needle broke. I'm wondering about the bill hook if the adjustment with that is off. I'm trying to learn how to adjust this thing. Thanks for your input and time.
Are you happy with your bale system as far as stacking? What is your average stacking bales in the barn per hour? At the present I am using a 8 bale flat accumulator with a 8 bale grapple. It 's just to slow. Looking for a new idea in handling hay.
Hey buddy, so I'm assuming once you took that Bent bar off your DADS HAY stacker that it worked MUCH smoother also shooting WD40 on the other part, since you didn't mention anything else about it once you had him start picking up the rest of the Bales in the Field, just curious, Another Great episode though, Miss doing Hay every year with My Mom's Dad and brother, I mostly ran either the Round or square balers and then they had me come in behind them when they were starting on other harvest and Pick up ALL the Round Bales with the stickers on BOTH ends to load onto the trailer, Be SAFE and OFCOURSE CYA SOON NEXT TIME 👍✌️🚜🌞😎
Yes what I did correct the second table issue. That first load I had to operate it manually. Afterward it cycled like it's supposed to. The other thing we found after we were done and why I had issues with the first stack not sitting right is someone welded round stack to the load rack to angle the rear forks up more which made the stack lean back farther than normal to get it off the stacker. So after this cutting g dad cut those off before we use it at his house. Other than that the stacker is working well. The loader chute could use a little straightening but it doesn't keep it from working.
Yes we should. I wear ear protection when I'm working in the shop with loud stuff. But I always for get when I'm on the tractor because I'm bouncing between jobs and everything and forger and then I don't make time to get ear plugs. I'm going to do better though because I do think it's important to preserve our hearing when we can. thanks
Yes if it is something designed for grease. If not the lathering grease on the outside of a joint doesn't do any good. Oil would have been a better lubricant. But I wd handy and it did the job.
Why are farmers/ranchers so poor at maintaining and repairing their equipment? I thought these were jack-of-all-trades type of men who took pride in their work? Yet after working on ranches for years, I have sadly seen countless pieces of equipment in very bad shape because of lack of maintenance and repairs, thus making their job more dangerous and more expensive, not to mention the frustration level is much higher because nothing ever operates as well as it could.
Honestly if I were guessing it would be a combination of lack of understanding and insufficient time in the day. Farmers have a lot to do and the primary goal is to grow a crop or raise livestock. All the equipment is in support of the main goal. Obviously in a perfect world you would do all the preventative maintenance in the off season and never break down or have any issues while you're running. Im a big believer in preventative maintence and we do decent at preventative stuff but there will always be things that fail that you can't change preventatively. Of course grease and oil changes and everything is the easy standard stuff. But a lot of farmers aren't equipped to take on real in depth and technical repairs. Large farmers will generally have a dealer do that type of work. Small farmers simply can't afford to pay someone else to do a lot of that work. They do what the can and fix the rest as they go. I don't have a really good answer for you. But I would assume that you did the preventative maintenance and repairs on the equipment at the ranch you worked at since you saw the issues. If you're talking about the issues I was working on in this video specifically this was a preventative repair. That's the whole reason we brought the 2nd stacker over to try before we really get into the hay full swing. It is a new addition my dad bought at an auction. And in the end it doesn't matter how perfect your preventative maintenance is, if you are running equipment you will have break downs.
I don’t know how it is in the area on the ranches that you have worked at, but I have seen a lot of farmers who have older aging equipment that have been passed down to generation after generation and well passed the equipment prime regardless of maintenance. Farming equipment is used hard, and while yes, maintenance can help it last it gets to a point of no return. A lot of the equipment that is used is still working because of the ranchers or farmers know how to keep it running and it may not be necessarily that they got it brand new farming equipment is excessively expensive given the circumstance of how reliant upon farmers we are and unless you are a Megalithic farm that owns thousands of acres you make very little profit in order to buy new equipment. Let alone maintain your equipment properly the way it should be on my small farm. We have a few hundred acres and the equipment that we use dates back 40+ years a couple of tractors are from the 40s and they are still running. They are rusty but they run like a top And I would love to upgrade them, but I am not willing to pay the $30,000 plus price tag to do so. I’m sure there are farmers and ranchers out there who just flat out don’t maintain anything but for the most part small farms get by with what they have, and also they work full-time day jobs on top of doing the farming on their land.
@haroldblackwell3212 you're correct. What I feel is pretty late model equipment is from the 80's. Which is now 40 yrs old. My baling tractor is a 67 year model. My white is a 78 year model. I'm happy to run them because to replace with anything newer than 20 yrs old is between $50k-$100k. I can't justify that.
I really do enjoy your videos, keep posting videos.
Thanks
Awesome! Thanks for watching
My first cut made over 100 bales/acre which is good but worked us really hard. My wife and I have baled 2960 bales so far. Finally done with first cut.
Good job Cade, Ross and Dad!
Thanks sis
Good to see you had the bails tied down around where I live most round bail and people transport them with out tying them down and they end up on the side of the road or cause a accident last year one fell of a trailer and hit a real nice pickup and totaled it out
Thanks for watching. I have driven trucks and hauled equipment and everything. I always try to tie things down the correct way. I sure don't want to restack and we don't want to cause issues on the road either.
Nice job brother 👍👍
Thanks
i enjoy your channel. i have a 326 also been using the orange twine and see you are using blue in yours Does the blue seem to be better with less knot breaking? Maybe im thinking there is a problem, but not really a problem, but to me seems there is just a fine line with the tension setting to keep it right. mine has manual tension.
I use blue, purple, and red/orange. The color doesn't matter. What you want to look at is knot strength. And then length is secondary. If you're looking at standard farm store twine typically it will be 9000/130 or 7200/170. The first number is the length and the second is the knot strength. Knot strength is most important. I run 170 lbs knot strength. But I run oversized bundles that are 7200 per roll so double the typical farm store twine. I wouldn't run 130. Need to run 170 or you could run 210 if you wanted.
@@thebalerman I have been using the 130 and not sure whether it is just breaking I'm going to check the bill hook and the knife. Today I baled and it would tie about 5 or 6 then miss always on the inside knotted. I baled around 120 bales with that senerio and then it baled 76 with 1 miss. I appreciate your help.
No problem happy to help. What does the knot look like when you miss?
@@thebalerman I was looking at some yesterday and they looked to me knot slipped through like it was tied tight but I could ever really decide exactly. I broke a needle on that side at the end of last year and repaired it this winter. I only broke the one needle. I went through the timing and adjustments, I think I have it right. I never could see why the needle broke. I'm wondering about the bill hook if the adjustment with that is off. I'm trying to learn how to adjust this thing. Thanks for your input and time.
Are you happy with your bale system as far as stacking?
What is your average stacking bales in the barn per hour?
At the present I am using a 8 bale flat accumulator with a 8 bale grapple.
It 's just to slow.
Looking for a new idea in handling hay.
What size deutz do you have looks like a nice size is it a deutz or deutz Alice
It is a 6150 Deutz. About 50hp.
@@thebalerman thank you for getting back with that information
No problem
Hey buddy, so I'm assuming once you took that Bent bar off your DADS HAY stacker that it worked MUCH smoother also shooting WD40 on the other part, since you didn't mention anything else about it once you had him start picking up the rest of the Bales in the Field, just curious, Another Great episode though, Miss doing Hay every year with My Mom's Dad and brother, I mostly ran either the Round or square balers and then they had me come in behind them when they were starting on other harvest and Pick up ALL the Round Bales with the stickers on BOTH ends to load onto the trailer, Be SAFE and OFCOURSE CYA SOON NEXT TIME 👍✌️🚜🌞😎
Yes what I did correct the second table issue. That first load I had to operate it manually. Afterward it cycled like it's supposed to. The other thing we found after we were done and why I had issues with the first stack not sitting right is someone welded round stack to the load rack to angle the rear forks up more which made the stack lean back farther than normal to get it off the stacker. So after this cutting g dad cut those off before we use it at his house. Other than that the stacker is working well. The loader chute could use a little straightening but it doesn't keep it from working.
@@thebalerman GOOD DEAL, CYA NEXT EPISODE, Looking forward to MORE VIDEOS 👍✌️🌞♥️😎🚜🚜
You guy's should wear ear protection, sounds like those machines are noisy
Yes we should. I wear ear protection when I'm working in the shop with loud stuff. But I always for get when I'm on the tractor because I'm bouncing between jobs and everything and forger and then I don't make time to get ear plugs. I'm going to do better though because I do think it's important to preserve our hearing when we can. thanks
Forget about your tedder,,, and just rake it and bale it after a couple hours of being in the windrow,
With the rain we’ve been having, we’d be baling wet hay, without a Tedder.
I'd be more than happy to if you want to make an agreement to pay me for any spoiled hay I have.
I cringe every time I see tykes unsecure on tractors. Friends have lost young children in situation like this!
It's common sense to grease every metal to metal component if you want to make sure they move smoothly and do not wear out.
Yes if it is something designed for grease. If not the lathering grease on the outside of a joint doesn't do any good. Oil would have been a better lubricant. But I wd handy and it did the job.
Why are farmers/ranchers so poor at maintaining and repairing their equipment? I thought these were jack-of-all-trades type of men who took pride in their work? Yet after working on ranches for years, I have sadly seen countless pieces of equipment in very bad shape because of lack of maintenance and repairs, thus making their job more dangerous and more expensive, not to mention the frustration level is much higher because nothing ever operates as well as it could.
Honestly if I were guessing it would be a combination of lack of understanding and insufficient time in the day. Farmers have a lot to do and the primary goal is to grow a crop or raise livestock. All the equipment is in support of the main goal. Obviously in a perfect world you would do all the preventative maintenance in the off season and never break down or have any issues while you're running. Im a big believer in preventative maintence and we do decent at preventative stuff but there will always be things that fail that you can't change preventatively. Of course grease and oil changes and everything is the easy standard stuff. But a lot of farmers aren't equipped to take on real in depth and technical repairs. Large farmers will generally have a dealer do that type of work. Small farmers simply can't afford to pay someone else to do a lot of that work. They do what the can and fix the rest as they go. I don't have a really good answer for you. But I would assume that you did the preventative maintenance and repairs on the equipment at the ranch you worked at since you saw the issues. If you're talking about the issues I was working on in this video specifically this was a preventative repair. That's the whole reason we brought the 2nd stacker over to try before we really get into the hay full swing. It is a new addition my dad bought at an auction. And in the end it doesn't matter how perfect your preventative maintenance is, if you are running equipment you will have break downs.
I don’t know how it is in the area on the ranches that you have worked at, but I have seen a lot of farmers who have older aging equipment that have been passed down to generation after generation and well passed the equipment prime regardless of maintenance. Farming equipment is used hard, and while yes, maintenance can help it last it gets to a point of no return. A lot of the equipment that is used is still working because of the ranchers or farmers know how to keep it running and it may not be necessarily that they got it brand new farming equipment is excessively expensive given the circumstance of how reliant upon farmers we are and unless you are a Megalithic farm that owns thousands of acres you make very little profit in order to buy new equipment. Let alone maintain your equipment properly the way it should be on my small farm. We have a few hundred acres and the equipment that we use dates back 40+ years a couple of tractors are from the 40s and they are still running. They are rusty but they run like a top And I would love to upgrade them, but I am not willing to pay the $30,000 plus price tag to do so. I’m sure there are farmers and ranchers out there who just flat out don’t maintain anything but for the most part small farms get by with what they have, and also they work full-time day jobs on top of doing the farming on their land.
@haroldblackwell3212 you're correct. What I feel is pretty late model equipment is from the 80's. Which is now 40 yrs old. My baling tractor is a 67 year model. My white is a 78 year model. I'm happy to run them because to replace with anything newer than 20 yrs old is between $50k-$100k. I can't justify that.