Hey Robert: I have a 2004 SSR, having problem #1 with oil pressure gauge jumping to max pressure (80lbs) then dropping to 0 lbs when rpm above 2M or jump on it and temp idiot light comes on.. also DIC reads low oil pressure and stop engine. After transmission shifts to 3rd or reaches cruise rate the oil pressure gauge goes back to 80 lbs and temp idiot light goes off, can your suggest what might be causing this problem?? Also problem #2 check engine light comes on sometimes and stays on, can you suggest solution?? Refer #1 problem temperature gauge shows about 230 degrees in parking lot traffic on highway slow-downs. I live in central Texas where it gets HOT; have watched a lot of your videos, very informative, can you make suggestions as to what is going on with my SSR?? Thanks, Randall625. obonnietta@gmail.com
SSR's are climbing in value and Baby boomers are selling them like crazy to Millennials. Totally stock or modified, they are the new hot ticket! There is no other car/truck like it...One of a kind! Values will skyrocket!
Hi Robert, Not sure if you remember me, but we spoke about 2 weeks ago for a while regarding SSR's and I was in the process of potentially buying one. I really appreciate the information you provided me, and I think you do a great job on TH-cam, so thanks again.
Excellent information, I am a little on the fence about getting one. Going through the process of sourcing one I am seeing, roof issues in one and time and other issues regarding the trouble shooting and getting parts and fixing the problem. I am also seeing the SSR(s) on the market (various advertising sources) and length of time before these sell, it is definitely a special market (limited buyer pool). Funny you should mention noise on the top, when I did a test drive 2006 one of the things that struck me as odd was wind noise that came from the top at highway speed. The sales person said it was "normal" I guess that is the "canned" comment for GM. Cool factor (subjective) seems to be more in the 50, 60 and 70 years old crowd (based on the demographics of sellers and current owner or perspective owners like myself) and as such the buyers pool seems to have a natural propensity to be in decline (chronic deadly disease called A.G.E.). Over all very informative and helpful video, thank you very much.
One thing I noticed you didn’t cover was the retractable roof I’ve heard there’s a key in case you have problems lowering or closing the roof could you let me know about that
The "roof release tool" is covered in the SSR owner's manual. Starting at page 2-47 of the 2006 model year owner's manual. The tool's use is the same for all model years (2003-2006). www.chevrolet.com/bypass/pcf/gma-content-api/resources/sites/GMA/content/staging/MANUALS/1000/MA1442/en_US/4.0/2006ChevroletSSR_OwnersManual.pdf
Great stuff...thanks very much. What happened to Simple Engineering's website? Almost nothing works, links are either broken or do nothing. There's photos of fruit on one page. ??? Thanks for all of your hard work though!
Mike said the website hosting company made some changes that promoted a development version of his website to be the publicly available version. He's working on getting it all fixed.
The four different SSRs that I've owned didn't have any rattles in the cab while driving. Those type of situations are usually best handled by having two people in the vehicle while driving. The passenger can try to narrow down front/back or which side of the vehicle the noise is coming from. That being said, there are a couple of things to potentially check: Item 1: At the rear of front hood where it rests on two adjuster bolts (with plastic caps at the top) can be one source of noises (not necessarily a rattle). The metal bracket on the hood will rub on the plastic cap of the adjuster bolts (one per side) and it will make some noise. I used a small/round felt pad to place on the top of the plastic cap (felt pad had adhesive). The felt pads I used were ones typically used for adding to the bottom side of furniture or household items. Adding the felt pad requires adjusting the bolt downward by a couple of turns to account for the thickness of the felt pad. Item 2: Another thing to check are the windshield side trim pieces (plastic / body color). They will sometimes become loose and potentially make noises while driving. They are secured to the outside of the A-pillar with Velcro strips on the middle/upper part and two plastic push pins on the bottom (see when door is open). Check to see if they're loose. Sometimes the adhesive for the Velcro strips will fail and the plastic trim piece can flap/move around when the outside air passes over them while driving. Item 3: The windshield cowl plastic at the base of the windshield will sometimes develop a gap between itself and the windshield glass. This can happen if the front windshield glass has been replaced with a third party (aftermarket) windshield which has a slightly different curve arc than the original GM windshield. You can look for a gap between the plastic and the windshield glass and if present I believe other SSR owners have solved that issue. You may want to check out the ssrfanatic.com website for assistance with suggestions for that fix.
Hello Robert, another Q, about the Chevy ssr I like to know on the rims all four are the same size I understand in all the front and back are different sizes but that's in the actual tire rather the rim correct me if I'm wrong.Thanks
Hello, Robert I just was wondering if you change the spark plugs by chance the reason I asked is are they hard to get to when changing the spark plugs.Thanks
I've not changed them yet on my SSR. I've heard the spark plugs located nearest to the firewall can be a challenge to replace due to space/access restrictions.
Just so we're using the same terms, the tonneau cover is the one over the roof storage area and the one covering the cargo area is the cargo cover. Both of those items are metal. There is a plastic "flipper" door/cover that is extended and visible when the roof is in the storage area and that is made of some sort of plastic.
My current SSR is my fourth SSR overall. The first one I had was a 2003 Smokin' Asphalt. My second one was a 2005 Ricochet Silver. My third one was a 2006 two tone Black / Silver. The 2004 Slingshot Yellow SSR that I currently own was purchased in 2009 as a used vehicle. It was the only one in the area with low mileage (at the time of 8200 miles).
The other thing I want for my ss r if I'm blessed to own one i found a no e New one the color i want and low miles not only i would run the Mobil synthetic motor oil i would also replace the transmission fluid with Mobil one synthetic transmission fluid i believe in a product it may be costly however it depends how much you care and admire your ssr.
My thing about the Chevy ssr if I'm blessed to get that aqua blue color of I'm knowing that I'm going to keep the truck indefinitely then I would go ahead and get all the original parts out there just to have rather than buy as one goes long term of one has the financial benefit to go that route mayBe just to me it sounds like a good idea. Thanks
Let me throw another Q, at you Robert the stiffinig plate that is sold by simple engineering does the plate does a good job in supporting the windshield its a common problem in most windshield I think the factory could do a lot better on the windshield support so it wouldn't vibrate so much going over bumps maybe Mike at simple engineering come up with something like a cross support you would anchor it on the frame come up on the fire wall and bolt or weld to the pillars of just me throwing a idea 💡out there.Thanks
The Simple Engineering front frame stiffening plate does a very good job of firming up the front suspension of the SSR. It greatly reduces the A-pillar (windshield) shake by about 60 to 80 percent (depending on the severity of the bumps encountered on the road). Bolting together the frame/body in a rigid configuration would not be good long term for the body. The body does need to be allowed to flex to some degree separate from the frame in a body-on-frame vehicle.
I been watching a lot of youtube videos this is my dream truck the people that had a lot of creativity in the ideas how to make it.I saw a video of a SSR owner that says his stepped motor in the dash gauge is sticking minor problem.
The dash (instrument panel) gauges have stepper motors that are well known to get "sticky" with age. It's not a SSR specific problem but more of a general GM problem of many vehicles produced by GM during the early 2000s. The solution is to replace the stepper motors with new aftermarket stepper motors. It's a somewhat easy task if you have any soldering skills. There are companies that will perform the repair for $100 US to $200 US, but you must remove the instrument panel and ship it to them for repair.
So Robert, please overlook if I have your name wrong you seem like a honest down to earth man that knows about the dad's can we play like father like son for a minute. I haven't own a ss r yet l been committing as I own one i been posting comments as what I would do if I had one.I found one that is the color i want in the aqua blue color it's a 2005 low mileage 5800 it shows a picture of the odometer readings it's loaded been in the garage clean 3 owners one dealership one person after that then the actual seller he claims the ss r is beautiful in looking at the pictures I agree here's the big ? He asking for 41,000 i just don't know I think maybe a red flag I'm a little slow was born like this do you care to comment on this.Thanks
My personal opinion is that the asking price seems high to me. It is a low mileage SSR, but unless it has some major upgrades that might explain the asking price, I would think somewhere in the $28,000 to $32,000 might be a possible value for it (assuming it's in very good condition and the low mileage). It all depends on what you value the SSR at as well. Again, my statement of value is only my personal opinion, you might need to find a similarly equipped SSR that was sold recently to get a good idea of the current market value. You could call www.northfreewayhyundai.com since that dealership has dealt with numerous SSR sales and they might be able to give you some insight into the one you're looking at and they may have leads as well. Don't give them the owner contact info, just the specifics of the SSR you're looking at to see what they think it's worth and maybe they can find a SSR for you as well.
Hello Roberg, in some instances having a yellow ssr can be at your advantage for example you need to take your wife somewhere just put a for hire sign on the dash and you can play 🚕taxicab.
Yes,I see you are like me take pride in your little car/truck collection you are like me I'm the same way if one pays much for a vehicle one would be wise to take pride in it.
I'm working on getting one if the good lord bless me. I would enjoy keeping up with it like you do i'm the same way I keep up with my vehicle. I don't know why I like these Chevrolet SSR I think they're cool but you only have a certain group that are going to invest in them like you and me.
Thanks for the advice Robert it helped yes Robert the ss r I'm looking at is loaded the person kept up with it for whatever reason their are a lot on the market their are people like me that are getting of i should say trying to get one for keeps i been doing homework on original parts and to my surprising there's still a lot out there all the electronic modules if I had a chance to buy original new s I would that issue would be take the trouble as it malfunction rather than preventive maintenance those module sale out quickly.
Suprised no one have got rid of the folding top so there is more room in the back and welded the top so it's stiffer and lighter and done a show car version. 😨😨😨😨
There was a Diamondback SSR that replaced the roof with a carbon fiber fixed roof configuration. www.ssrfanatic.com/threads/diamondback-revisited.108290
Hello Robert, yes another ssr question I figured in anybody has the most educated answers it would be good and old Robert the ssr I told you about in one of the other comments that is a little high on price but low exceptional miles. Yes I like to take the seller with total honestly on all description just being a wise consumer. However nothing personal to the seller it did cross my mind about odometer tampering/rollback being that it's a computer chip as the odometer is made of it would be difficult but not impossible if you know the right dishonest people with a gadget to do it can you share some information on this.Thanks
Given the right equipment and dishonest person, you can alter the odometer reading in most modern vehicles. Whatever the stated mileage is for the vehicle, you should inspect it or have a qualified mechanic inspect the entire vehicle to see if the amount of wear on the vehicle's components line up with the stated mileage.
@RetroCarGuy530 I tried the replacement of Oil pressure sender. I had to jack hood up with Engine crane to get into the rear of intake. It is not easy to get in. I found that a rubber cover is over the Oil sender. I could not see this before. I had bought a Magnet light at O'llies to see. No where has anyone said that a 1/4 inch steel plate is hiding the access to sender. I think it is a gas line & EVAC mount. Had to remove the Brake booster vacuum line & all the gas lines. Had to loosen all the bolts holding the plate. Like always? need a special tool & a long screw driver to hold it away from sender. The wire connector is impossible to get hand into the area to disconnect. Another special tool to release clip & remove. I finally got socket onto sender. But kept slipping off. There is another electrical connector right next to sender. Had to force the connector away from Oil sender & push down for socket to break loose the sender. It took several tries to break the sender loose. Definitely a bad sender. Looks like the connector was broke for some time? Next to get sender to stay in socket to start it back into hole. Had all my 3/8 extensions & the Magnet light to guide. I got it started. But that pesky electrical connector got in way again. Difficult to keep socket onto sender. Then the impossible task of getting electrical reconnected. Forced my left hand & fingers into a space that a baby's hands would not fit. Special tool again to hold connector to connect. Once that was done. Re connect Gas line, Vacuum, EVAC & retighten all the loosened bolts. Too me over 4 hours to complete. Started & running with No leaks? No oil under SSR. Have 40 PSI on working gauge. No trouble codes. Finished in time before rain started. Only a small amount of blood left to make my pride in my ownership worth more. I am having problems posting the comment on original question.
I'm glad you were able to get it replaced with minimal blood loss. 😀 The service manual states to: Remove the engine cover Disconnect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector Use special tool J-41712 (special socket) to remove the oil pressure sensor. Apply sealant GM 12346004 to the threads of the new pressure sensor Use tool J-41712 to install the oil pressure sensor and torque to 15 ft lbs Reconnect electrical connector Replace the engine cover.
@@RetroCarGuy530 It is not as easy as manual states. I had same problem with replacing ABS. Manual reads to remove top brake lines first? LOL Have to remove the bottom lines first. Can't get to those lines with out loosening the ABS unit. Must have written the R&R looking down from top of chassis before body is mounted. No where is the procedures from real world mechanics view. That 1/4 steel plate was the biggest hold up in removal & Install. So if the SSR service manual is to believed? Nope. Just like fixing the blower motor relay what ever it is called. Have to remove passengers side seat to get body into position to R&R the failed part.
Comment on what kind of Chevy SSR videos you would like to see on this channel.
Hey Robert: I have a 2004 SSR, having problem #1 with oil pressure gauge jumping to max pressure (80lbs) then dropping to 0 lbs when rpm above 2M or jump on it and temp idiot light comes on.. also DIC reads low oil pressure and stop engine. After transmission shifts to 3rd or reaches cruise rate the oil pressure gauge goes back to 80 lbs and temp idiot light goes off, can your suggest what might be causing this problem?? Also problem #2 check engine light comes on sometimes and stays on, can you suggest solution?? Refer #1 problem temperature gauge shows about 230 degrees in parking lot traffic on highway slow-downs. I live in central Texas where it gets HOT; have watched a lot of your videos, very informative, can you make suggestions as to what is going on with my SSR?? Thanks, Randall625. obonnietta@gmail.com
SSR's are climbing in value and Baby boomers are selling them like crazy to Millennials. Totally stock or modified, they are the new hot ticket! There is no other car/truck like it...One of a kind! Values will skyrocket!
Guess I'll wait until It depreciates even more for me to consider buying one then.... I'll buy a civic
Hi Robert,
Not sure if you remember me, but we spoke about 2 weeks ago for a while regarding SSR's and I was in the process of potentially buying one. I really appreciate the information you provided me, and I think you do a great job on TH-cam, so thanks again.
Wow, thank you so much! Good luck with your search to purchase a SSR.
I own a 2005 ssr with the 6 speed and supercharged and I love it
I thank You again Robert for all Your work & skills giving fellow SSR owners great insight here !
excellent useful details in your evaluation!
Just got my 2003 SSR today. I love it. Goes along with my 2002 vette.
great video learned a lot about the SSR
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent information, I am a little on the fence about getting one. Going through the process of sourcing one I am seeing, roof issues in one and time and other issues regarding the trouble shooting and getting parts and fixing the problem. I am also seeing the SSR(s) on the market (various advertising sources) and length of time before these sell, it is definitely a special market (limited buyer pool). Funny you should mention noise on the top, when I did a test drive 2006 one of the things that struck me as odd was wind noise that came from the top at highway speed. The sales person said it was "normal" I guess that is the "canned" comment for GM. Cool factor (subjective) seems to be more in the 50, 60 and 70 years old crowd (based on the demographics of sellers and current owner or perspective owners like myself) and as such the buyers pool seems to have a natural propensity to be in decline (chronic deadly disease called A.G.E.). Over all very informative and helpful video, thank you very much.
Yes Robert I know what you mean in the last text about bolting to the frame I didn't know the stiffinig plate was 60 to 80% success rate.Thanks
One thing I noticed you didn’t cover was the retractable roof I’ve heard there’s a key in case you have problems lowering or closing the roof could you let me know about that
The "roof release tool" is covered in the SSR owner's manual. Starting at page 2-47 of the 2006 model year owner's manual. The tool's use is the same for all model years (2003-2006).
www.chevrolet.com/bypass/pcf/gma-content-api/resources/sites/GMA/content/staging/MANUALS/1000/MA1442/en_US/4.0/2006ChevroletSSR_OwnersManual.pdf
Me and you think alike I had the same idea in my mind .Thanks
Great stuff...thanks very much. What happened to Simple Engineering's website? Almost nothing works, links are either broken or do nothing. There's photos of fruit on one page. ??? Thanks for all of your hard work though!
Mike said the website hosting company made some changes that promoted a development version of his website to be the publicly available version. He's working on getting it all fixed.
Hi, i have what sounds like a interior rattle when i am not on a smooth road . any clues to what it is from.
The four different SSRs that I've owned didn't have any rattles in the cab while driving. Those type of situations are usually best handled by having two people in the vehicle while driving. The passenger can try to narrow down front/back or which side of the vehicle the noise is coming from.
That being said, there are a couple of things to potentially check:
Item 1: At the rear of front hood where it rests on two adjuster bolts (with plastic caps at the top) can be one source of noises (not necessarily a rattle). The metal bracket on the hood will rub on the plastic cap of the adjuster bolts (one per side) and it will make some noise. I used a small/round felt pad to place on the top of the plastic cap (felt pad had adhesive). The felt pads I used were ones typically used for adding to the bottom side of furniture or household items. Adding the felt pad requires adjusting the bolt downward by a couple of turns to account for the thickness of the felt pad.
Item 2: Another thing to check are the windshield side trim pieces (plastic / body color). They will sometimes become loose and potentially make noises while driving. They are secured to the outside of the A-pillar with Velcro strips on the middle/upper part and two plastic push pins on the bottom (see when door is open). Check to see if they're loose. Sometimes the adhesive for the Velcro strips will fail and the plastic trim piece can flap/move around when the outside air passes over them while driving.
Item 3: The windshield cowl plastic at the base of the windshield will sometimes develop a gap between itself and the windshield glass. This can happen if the front windshield glass has been replaced with a third party (aftermarket) windshield which has a slightly different curve arc than the original GM windshield. You can look for a gap between the plastic and the windshield glass and if present I believe other SSR owners have solved that issue. You may want to check out the ssrfanatic.com website for assistance with suggestions for that fix.
Hello Robert, another Q, about the Chevy ssr I like to know on the rims all four are the same size I understand in all the front and back are different sizes but that's in the actual tire rather the rim correct me if I'm wrong.Thanks
The front rims are 19" rims and the rear are 20" rims.
Hello, Robert I just was wondering if you change the spark plugs by chance the reason I asked is are they hard to get to when changing the spark plugs.Thanks
I've not changed them yet on my SSR. I've heard the spark plugs located nearest to the firewall can be a challenge to replace due to space/access restrictions.
Q, Can you tell me what type material is the tonneau cover on the 2005 Chevrolet SSR made of? Thanks
Just so we're using the same terms, the tonneau cover is the one over the roof storage area and the one covering the cargo area is the cargo cover.
Both of those items are metal. There is a plastic "flipper" door/cover that is extended and visible when the roof is in the storage area and that is made of some sort of plastic.
Yes question, the yellow Set did you buy that color because it was the color you want or it was the only color the dealership had to offer.Thanks
My current SSR is my fourth SSR overall. The first one I had was a 2003 Smokin' Asphalt. My second one was a 2005 Ricochet Silver. My third one was a 2006 two tone Black / Silver. The 2004 Slingshot Yellow SSR that I currently own was purchased in 2009 as a used vehicle. It was the only one in the area with low mileage (at the time of 8200 miles).
The other thing I want for my ss r if I'm blessed to own one i found a no e New one the color i want and low miles not only i would run the Mobil synthetic motor oil i would also replace the transmission fluid with Mobil one synthetic transmission fluid i believe in a product it may be costly however it depends how much you care and admire your ssr.
My thing about the Chevy ssr if I'm blessed to get that aqua blue color of I'm knowing that I'm going to keep the truck indefinitely then I would go ahead and get all the original parts out there just to have rather than buy as one goes long term of one has the financial benefit to go that route mayBe just to me it sounds like a good idea. Thanks
Let me throw another Q, at you Robert the stiffinig plate that is sold by simple engineering does the plate does a good job in supporting the windshield its a common problem in most windshield I think the factory could do a lot better on the windshield support so it wouldn't vibrate so much going over bumps maybe Mike at simple engineering come up with something like a cross support you would anchor it on the frame come up on the fire wall and bolt or weld to the pillars of just me throwing a idea 💡out there.Thanks
The Simple Engineering front frame stiffening plate does a very good job of firming up the front suspension of the SSR. It greatly reduces the A-pillar (windshield) shake by about 60 to 80 percent (depending on the severity of the bumps encountered on the road). Bolting together the frame/body in a rigid configuration would not be good long term for the body. The body does need to be allowed to flex to some degree separate from the frame in a body-on-frame vehicle.
I been watching a lot of youtube videos this is my dream truck the people that had a lot of creativity in the ideas how to make it.I saw a video of a SSR owner that says his stepped motor in the dash gauge is sticking minor problem.
The dash (instrument panel) gauges have stepper motors that are well known to get "sticky" with age. It's not a SSR specific problem but more of a general GM problem of many vehicles produced by GM during the early 2000s. The solution is to replace the stepper motors with new aftermarket stepper motors. It's a somewhat easy task if you have any soldering skills. There are companies that will perform the repair for $100 US to $200 US, but you must remove the instrument panel and ship it to them for repair.
So Robert, please overlook if I have your name wrong you seem like a honest down to earth man that knows about the dad's can we play like father like son for a minute. I haven't own a ss r yet l been committing as I own one i been posting comments as what I would do if I had one.I found one that is the color i want in the aqua blue color it's a 2005 low mileage 5800 it shows a picture of the odometer readings it's loaded been in the garage clean 3 owners one dealership one person after that then the actual seller he claims the ss r is beautiful in looking at the pictures I agree here's the big ? He asking for 41,000 i just don't know I think maybe a red flag I'm a little slow was born like this do you care to comment on this.Thanks
My personal opinion is that the asking price seems high to me. It is a low mileage SSR, but unless it has some major upgrades that might explain the asking price, I would think somewhere in the $28,000 to $32,000 might be a possible value for it (assuming it's in very good condition and the low mileage). It all depends on what you value the SSR at as well. Again, my statement of value is only my personal opinion, you might need to find a similarly equipped SSR that was sold recently to get a good idea of the current market value. You could call www.northfreewayhyundai.com since that dealership has dealt with numerous SSR sales and they might be able to give you some insight into the one you're looking at and they may have leads as well. Don't give them the owner contact info, just the specifics of the SSR you're looking at to see what they think it's worth and maybe they can find a SSR for you as well.
Hello Roberg, in some instances having a yellow ssr can be at your advantage for example you need to take your wife somewhere just put a for hire sign on the dash and you can play 🚕taxicab.
Wow what detail !!
Yes,I see you are like me take pride in your little car/truck collection you are like me I'm the same way if one pays much for a vehicle one would be wise to take pride in it.
I'm working on getting one if the good lord bless me. I would enjoy keeping up with it like you do i'm the same way I keep up with my vehicle. I don't know why I like these Chevrolet SSR I think they're cool but you only have a certain group that are going to invest in them like you and me.
Thanks for the advice Robert it helped yes Robert the ss r I'm looking at is loaded the person kept up with it for whatever reason their are a lot on the market their are people like me that are getting of i should say trying to get one for keeps i been doing homework on original parts and to my surprising there's still a lot out there all the electronic modules if I had a chance to buy original new s I would that issue would be take the trouble as it malfunction rather than preventive maintenance those module sale out quickly.
Suprised no one have got rid of the folding top so there is more room in the back and welded the top so it's stiffer and lighter and done a show car version.
😨😨😨😨
There was a Diamondback SSR that replaced the roof with a carbon fiber fixed roof configuration. www.ssrfanatic.com/threads/diamondback-revisited.108290
Hello Robert, yes another ssr question I figured in anybody has the most educated answers it would be good and old Robert the ssr I told you about in one of the other comments that is a little high on price but low exceptional miles. Yes I like to take the seller with total honestly on all description just being a wise consumer. However nothing personal to the seller it did cross my mind about odometer tampering/rollback being that it's a computer chip as the odometer is made of it would be difficult but not impossible if you know the right dishonest people with a gadget to do it can you share some information on this.Thanks
Given the right equipment and dishonest person, you can alter the odometer reading in most modern vehicles. Whatever the stated mileage is for the vehicle, you should inspect it or have a qualified mechanic inspect the entire vehicle to see if the amount of wear on the vehicle's components line up with the stated mileage.
Love mine
3Tt we
@RetroCarGuy530 I tried the replacement of Oil pressure sender. I had to jack hood up with Engine crane to get into the rear of intake. It is not easy to get in. I found that a rubber cover is over the Oil sender. I could not see this before. I had bought a Magnet light at O'llies to see. No where has anyone said that a 1/4 inch steel plate is hiding the access to sender. I think it is a gas line & EVAC mount. Had to remove the Brake booster vacuum line & all the gas lines. Had to loosen all the bolts holding the plate. Like always? need a special tool & a long screw driver to hold it away from sender. The wire connector is impossible to get hand into the area to disconnect. Another special tool to release clip & remove. I finally got socket onto sender. But kept slipping off. There is another electrical connector right next to sender. Had to force the connector away from Oil sender & push down for socket to break loose the sender. It took several tries to break the sender loose. Definitely a bad sender. Looks like the connector was broke for some time? Next to get sender to stay in socket to start it back into hole. Had all my 3/8 extensions & the Magnet light to guide. I got it started. But that pesky electrical connector got in way again. Difficult to keep socket onto sender. Then the impossible task of getting electrical reconnected. Forced my left hand & fingers into a space that a baby's hands would not fit. Special tool again to hold connector to connect. Once that was done. Re connect Gas line, Vacuum, EVAC & retighten all the loosened bolts. Too me over 4 hours to complete. Started & running with No leaks? No oil under SSR. Have 40 PSI on working gauge. No trouble codes. Finished in time before rain started. Only a small amount of blood left to make my pride in my ownership worth more. I am having
problems posting the comment on original question.
I'm glad you were able to get it replaced with minimal blood loss. 😀
The service manual states to:
Remove the engine cover
Disconnect the oil pressure sensor electrical connector
Use special tool J-41712 (special socket) to remove the oil pressure sensor.
Apply sealant GM 12346004 to the threads of the new pressure sensor
Use tool J-41712 to install the oil pressure sensor and torque to 15 ft lbs
Reconnect electrical connector
Replace the engine cover.
@@RetroCarGuy530 It is not as easy as manual states. I had same problem with replacing ABS. Manual reads to remove top brake lines first? LOL Have to remove the bottom lines first. Can't get to those lines with out loosening the ABS unit. Must have written the R&R looking down from top of chassis before body is mounted. No where is the procedures from real world mechanics view. That 1/4 steel plate was the biggest hold up in removal & Install. So if the SSR service manual is to believed? Nope. Just like fixing the blower motor relay what ever it is called. Have to remove passengers side seat to get body into position to R&R the failed part.