I’ve been feeling silly for constantly taking test strips from my blends out onto the balcony to smell again outside. Glad to know I’m not crazy! Thanks Sarah, these videos are all a great help.
Loving this series, learning a lot and laughing a lot. It would be interesting to know more about the "boring" but important bits such as the alcohol, water, fixatives etc. Thank you for your time doing these videos. :)
I've made one about the myths of perfumery, which I'm bringing out soon. One of the myths is that we need to add water or fixatives to a fragrance. We usually don't, and I'm not sure where this particular myth has come from. Some materials, like Iso E Super or vanillin are fixatives, and they would already be part of a fragrance. There is a rumour that perfumers add DPG. Totally false, and that's in the next film. 😁 I can definitely talk about ethanol though and I wouldn't find it boring. 😀
Before discovering your generous and informative videos I purchased auranone as my first musk for blending. I liked the smell of it but now find it is cloying and it never goes away.. I have yet to use it at .05 concentration but do you think it is worth the time experimenting with it? Thank you so much for sharing your vast experience and giving me confidence to keep on through all the awful results in the beginning.
Thanks ever so much. I don't own any Auranone so I went and looked it up. (I haven't managed by Pokemon full set yet.) On the Firmenich website it says "A strong musky base with a delicate floral, somewhat animalic and sandalwood character." It's a base, and usually I would be blending with musks which are individual aromachemicals. This has been created for a reason, so smell pretty intense, so I understand how it would take over. This is not a musk intended for blending; it's more of a statement. Maybe if you're going to start with one, go for Romandolide, partly because of its green credentials, and partly because it's a nice backgroundy kind of support material.
I'll have to watch it again but usually I either work at 100%, or in dilutions. Most of my naturals are at 10% for essential oils and 5% for absolutes.
You can never have enough musks :D The ones I have and I use the most are civettone, muscone, muscenone, hexadecanolide, Musk R1, exaltone, exaltenone, exaltolide, romandolide and helvetolide. I should use the ambretone more often, but in the experiments I did with it it didn't seem too interesting. I have the bases Shangralide and Tonquitone, which I hardly use anymore. Although I do love me some dirty musk scents, the bases didn't work for me well in blends. I've read a study where they have analysed the composition of deer musk in various forms and with various solvents used. Interestingly, beside muscone there was quite some exaltone, of which I have learnd was first obtained from musk rats. Also quite high amounts of meta-cresol, beside other substances I haven't seen yet in shops targeted towards hobbyists. I saved the link somewhere, so I can try again making a musky base using those informations when I have more of the missing informations. Trying to replace them with similar substances worked to some degree, but weren't completely satisfying. Adding hyraceum absolute and tincture at least helped to make it more animalic. If I may ask, what is the most animalic or/and the dirtiest musk you have experienced yet?
Oddly enough, most of my favourite musks are nice and clean. I find Animalis as it says on the tin, and Aurelione quite wolfish. I think Atlas Cedar smells more animalic than musks, but that's just me.
Actually, I found non of the musk molecules I have or have smelled so far overly animalic or even dirty. Warm, cuddly, soft or somewhat fresh and laundry like. On the other hand, I adore Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens and don't find it dirty either. Again, I rather find it warm, ambracing, cozy.
Thank you for sharing this it has motivated me to try this method today and start to properly explore and understand the impact of these and other aroma chemicals that enhance performance. I've got a lovely smelling simple cologne with sucky performance i started yesterday, so no better time than the present!!!
Excellent. I always think that performance in perfume is overrated, as you'll find out from other films. Beauty is being lost in the pursuit of projection.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Thanks for your reply! I think of making a fragrance like crafting a story and I want it to evoke an emotional response in various ways, first is when I smell it I go, "mmm I want this perfume!" but also in other ways, like one I am creating of autumn and including the smells of autumn that might plug into perhaps a shared experience of the olfactory memory's of autumn and elicit an emotional response through connecting with a person's experience. I feel like this has maybe been said before but I think beauty is felt rather than seen and I try to sculpt fragrances around my own feelings that come up when I make them as my litmus test of sorts. However! Coming at fragrance making from being in perfume collectors groups, I shared in the disappointment of a great smell that is too fleeting, and I feel like I owe it to the team to cram as much performance into them as possible! Not at the expense of a beautiful smell though. I think that is what will be tested tonight with this simple cologne and various musks and aldehydes, as I suspect part of the beauty of the opening aroma is perhaps because it is diffusing so juicily!
@@jameswalpole2468 I do see what you mean. Yes, I don't think anyone wants purposely to minimise the performance. Sometimes I accept that something smells the way it does, and it is what it is.
Great talk 🤗 What confuses me - If original deer musk that smells animalic, like a donkey as you described it well, that sweaty chest hairy type one was used to attract people why now those aroma chemicals that smell mire fruity, laundry, or urinal are called musk as well? Or are those associations i have with musk come more from the other notes musk get often used with like jasmine fir example? Are no aroma chemicals out there that smell like that donkey? And i am not talking about civid or those fecal notes. Is there also some sort of fragrentica to look out for fragrances with specific aroma chemicals? So musks get used more for their effect that they have on other notes not how they smell on their own, right? Really confusing because then if reviewers talk about musky scents they normally talk about all the other notes not musk on its own.
The musk pod smells of donkey, the material taken from it did not smell of donkey, it smells more like modern, soft laundry smells. Sorry I wasn't very clear about that. People didn't plonk in the whole pod. The sweaty hairy smell isn't what musk tinctures smelled like, never was, and reviewers sometimes mistakenly use the word "musky" to describe something they find sensual. Also I think.they get mixed up with musty sometimes. The word you're looking for is urinous, 😉 and that's not how musks are. Fruity and mildly sweet, clean and soft, yes. Aurelione is different, to be fair, old houses and charity shops at 100%, and nice warm body when diluted. To understand what musks smell like people need to smell musks alone not just fragrances with musk listed in the notes. Some are features, lead singers like Velvione and Ambrettolide. Some like Ethylene Brassylate and Fixolide are a lot more backing group.
I have some of Sigma's androstenol to let you smell some day! Either smells like the best sandalwood on earth, urine, or nothing at all. Large molecule!
The smell of deer musk and what it does within a composition is NOT replicable by any synthetic musk...trust me. It's like saying that ambergris and ambroxan are the same thing...!
Testing musks with the same note to see the effects is the best advise I've seen on TH-cam videos as learning tool
Thanks a lot for dropping in to say so. I hope you find some more useful points in the other films too.
I’ve been feeling silly for constantly taking test strips from my blends out onto the balcony to smell again outside. Glad to know I’m not crazy! Thanks Sarah, these videos are all a great help.
Thank you. I can confirm that you are no more silly than the rest of us. 😄 I'm very happy this has been useful.
Perfect timing! I'm getting a order together for musks right now and I'm having a hard time deciding which ones I want to get.
It can be baffling, how are you getting along? You can get away with one background and one more upfront musk at first. Maybe two of each.
"That's just his wallet" lmfao
😁 I think that was my favourite bit too.
Loving this series, learning a lot and laughing a lot. It would be interesting to know more about the "boring" but important bits such as the alcohol, water, fixatives etc. Thank you for your time doing these videos. :)
I've made one about the myths of perfumery, which I'm bringing out soon. One of the myths is that we need to add water or fixatives to a fragrance. We usually don't, and I'm not sure where this particular myth has come from. Some materials, like Iso E Super or vanillin are fixatives, and they would already be part of a fragrance. There is a rumour that perfumers add DPG. Totally false, and that's in the next film. 😁 I can definitely talk about ethanol though and I wouldn't find it boring. 😀
Galaxolide is the worst 'neat' material I've ever worked with. It's very difficult getting it into any solvent, even with heat.
@@mustafamalimi I've never bought it neat.
Great Video Sarah!!!
Un saludo desde México 🇲🇽
Muchas gracias por brindar esa información.
De nada, Carlos. 😁 Thank you for watching.
Thank you Sarah! I love the smell of ambrettolide, it provides a beautiful creaminess to a fragrance, I think.
Oh absolutely, that and Velvione are my current favourites.
Before discovering your generous and informative videos I purchased auranone as my first musk for blending. I liked the smell of it but now find it is cloying and it never goes away.. I have yet to use it at .05 concentration but do you think it is worth the time experimenting with it? Thank you so much for sharing your vast experience and giving me confidence to keep on through all the awful results in the beginning.
Thanks ever so much. I don't own any Auranone so I went and looked it up. (I haven't managed by Pokemon full set yet.) On the Firmenich website it says "A strong musky base with a delicate floral, somewhat animalic and sandalwood character." It's a base, and usually I would be blending with musks which are individual aromachemicals. This has been created for a reason, so smell pretty intense, so I understand how it would take over. This is not a musk intended for blending; it's more of a statement. Maybe if you're going to start with one, go for Romandolide, partly because of its green credentials, and partly because it's a nice backgroundy kind of support material.
Love your videos! Am I correct in saying your musks here are at 10% and then your mixing with the natural at 100% ?
I'll have to watch it again but usually I either work at 100%, or in dilutions. Most of my naturals are at 10% for essential oils and 5% for absolutes.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 that makes sense I’ll have a play!
You can never have enough musks :D
The ones I have and I use the most are civettone, muscone, muscenone, hexadecanolide, Musk R1, exaltone, exaltenone, exaltolide, romandolide and helvetolide. I should use the ambretone more often, but in the experiments I did with it it didn't seem too interesting. I have the bases Shangralide and Tonquitone, which I hardly use anymore. Although I do love me some dirty musk scents, the bases didn't work for me well in blends.
I've read a study where they have analysed the composition of deer musk in various forms and with various solvents used. Interestingly, beside muscone there was quite some exaltone, of which I have learnd was first obtained from musk rats. Also quite high amounts of meta-cresol, beside other substances I haven't seen yet in shops targeted towards hobbyists. I saved the link somewhere, so I can try again making a musky base using those informations when I have more of the missing informations. Trying to replace them with similar substances worked to some degree, but weren't completely satisfying.
Adding hyraceum absolute and tincture at least helped to make it more animalic.
If I may ask, what is the most animalic or/and the dirtiest musk you have experienced yet?
Oddly enough, most of my favourite musks are nice and clean. I find Animalis as it says on the tin, and Aurelione quite wolfish. I think Atlas Cedar smells more animalic than musks, but that's just me.
Actually, I found non of the musk molecules I have or have smelled so far overly animalic or even dirty. Warm, cuddly, soft or somewhat fresh and laundry like.
On the other hand, I adore Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens and don't find it dirty either. Again, I rather find it warm, ambracing, cozy.
@@pami333 There's Cashmeran, which isn't really a musk, but I'd definitely say that Aurelione a good one to put in a blend.
So far Tonquitone and Ambrinol are the most animalic or “dirty” musks. But I still have a limited number of musks, still building my collection.
Thank you for sharing this it has motivated me to try this method today and start to properly explore and understand the impact of these and other aroma chemicals that enhance performance. I've got a lovely smelling simple cologne with sucky performance i started yesterday, so no better time than the present!!!
Excellent. I always think that performance in perfume is overrated, as you'll find out from other films. Beauty is being lost in the pursuit of projection.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Thanks for your reply! I think of making a fragrance like crafting a story and I want it to evoke an emotional response in various ways, first is when I smell it I go, "mmm I want this perfume!" but also in other ways, like one I am creating of autumn and including the smells of autumn that might plug into perhaps a shared experience of the olfactory memory's of autumn and elicit an emotional response through connecting with a person's experience. I feel like this has maybe been said before but I think beauty is felt rather than seen and I try to sculpt fragrances around my own feelings that come up when I make them as my litmus test of sorts. However! Coming at fragrance making from being in perfume collectors groups, I shared in the disappointment of a great smell that is too fleeting, and I feel like I owe it to the team to cram as much performance into them as possible! Not at the expense of a beautiful smell though. I think that is what will be tested tonight with this simple cologne and various musks and aldehydes, as I suspect part of the beauty of the opening aroma is perhaps because it is diffusing so juicily!
@@jameswalpole2468 I do see what you mean. Yes, I don't think anyone wants purposely to minimise the performance. Sometimes I accept that something smells the way it does, and it is what it is.
Helvetolide? I'll have what he's having!
😁 Watch the one with the Cashmeran Velvet.
Very interesting hearing your observations.
Thank you, Liz. Have you tried a similar exercise?
@@SarahMcCartney4160 - no, but I will soon x
@@lizseville1 looking forward to hearing about the results.
Great talk 🤗
What confuses me - If original deer musk that smells animalic, like a donkey as you described it well, that sweaty chest hairy type one was used to attract people why now those aroma chemicals that smell mire fruity, laundry, or urinal are called musk as well?
Or are those associations i have with musk come more from the other notes musk get often used with like jasmine fir example?
Are no aroma chemicals out there that smell like that donkey?
And i am not talking about civid or those fecal notes.
Is there also some sort of fragrentica to look out for fragrances with specific aroma chemicals?
So musks get used more for their effect that they have on other notes not how they smell on their own, right?
Really confusing because then if reviewers talk about musky scents they normally talk about all the other notes not musk on its own.
The musk pod smells of donkey, the material taken from it did not smell of donkey, it smells more like modern, soft laundry smells. Sorry I wasn't very clear about that. People didn't plonk in the whole pod.
The sweaty hairy smell isn't what musk tinctures smelled like, never was, and reviewers sometimes mistakenly use the word "musky" to describe something they find sensual. Also I think.they get mixed up with musty sometimes.
The word you're looking for is urinous, 😉 and that's not how musks are. Fruity and mildly sweet, clean and soft, yes. Aurelione is different, to be fair, old houses and charity shops at 100%, and nice warm body when diluted.
To understand what musks smell like people need to smell musks alone not just fragrances with musk listed in the notes.
Some are features, lead singers like Velvione and Ambrettolide. Some like Ethylene Brassylate and Fixolide are a lot more backing group.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 😃 ah okay - Thanks for explaining
"he is a walking pharamone, no that is just his wallet" hahahaha good one
Thank you. To be honest I was quite pleased with that one.😊
I have some of Sigma's androstenol to let you smell some day! Either smells like the best sandalwood on earth, urine, or nothing at all. Large molecule!
Hello, I am looking for any way to make Concret at Comme des Garçon without success is it possible to help me please, thank you very much
But Ismail, they already made it. Wouldn't you like to make something different? :-)
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I would love to do it but I will start from their base, because this is the kind of perfume I want to compose
@@ismailsaddik9172 I have a bottle somewhere, also Scent & Chemistry might have some information.
The smell of deer musk and what it does within a composition is NOT replicable by any synthetic musk...trust me.
It's like saying that ambergris and ambroxan are the same thing...!
It's illegal, so we can't use it anyway.