I am a factory trained Stihl mechanic and the MS170 is a fantastic saw for the home owner, for storm cleanup, small trees and cutting branches. Yesterday I had a not running 170, manufactured in Aug/2004, come in with aftermarket (Chinese) parts. I performed a complete engine check, which includes pressure/vacuum test of the case. After verifying the engine was sealed and mechanically sound i replaced the after market parts with factory parts, including the carb. The saw fired on the third pull and is cutting great. The parts and labor for the repair was $93.00 I believe your cutting performance increase is the result of the bar & chain swap you performed with the shorter bar length being negligible. The stock bar & chain for the 170 is .043 gauge 3/8" Picco (aka LP) semi-chisel chain 61PMM3. You installed a .050 gauge 3/8" Picco full chisel chain 63PS. The larger .050 gauge permits a larger cutter while maintaining the same chain pitch. The .050 gauge 3/8" Picco is my recommended upgrade to the 170 and is the stock bar & chain for the top handle saws and the MS 211.
Upgrading the bar and chain made the biggest difference along with opening the muffler. I used the smaller bar as I have bigger saws for larger wood. Reality is that can pull a 14" or 16" chain if it was someones only saw.
Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
The MS170 is a gas powered saw, which is the subject of this video. You might want to see if there is a California compliant sight that you can post on.
a little trick, when you tighten the chain, always rest the bar nose on something, or pull it up with your hand. it'll keep your chain tight. if you don't it'll often get loose on the first cut.
After this video I purchased a MS 170. This was last year and I have to say this chainsaw is really great one of my favorites because lightweight. I got also a 026 and 044.
My dad gave me a Ms 170 with a 16 inch bar a couple years ago I used it every day to cut everything from a branch to making 2*2 and even 12*12 it's the only thing I could afford but now I just bought a Ms250 which is such a great improvement but when I get a 18 inch bar for it I'm going to make a 10 high by 15 wide and 45 long truck ramp for my future truck but I love the videos
I'm a little late to the party, but thank you for making this video. I did the tensioner and bucking spike upgrade to my saw. It was very simple and greatly improved the utility of the saw. It made an already good saw a great saw for me.
Hey, Vince, me again. When I saw this video I understood about most of the mods already and was only envying that Yost vice. A couple weeks ago a friend asked me to come up with a used saw for use around the home and said they'd been looking at the 170. Turns out another friend (arborist) had given me a 180C a while back and I was saving it for myself but hadn't really had a chance to inspect fully, restore and get it going. I decided, since I learned these two were so similar, that I'd fix this one up for them. I figured out why someone had given my buddy this saw for free. It had overheated and blown out the clutch drum bearing as well as melting some of the plastic parts a little. (I suspect someone ran it with the brake on.) Now that I've worked on it and tuned it as much as possible (fixed jets OEM carb) I realize the clutch springs were weakened. This must have been due to the overheat event. That's why I can only get the chain to stop running if I turn the idle way down, plus the clutch engage speed is much lower than the 4100 spec. I've got a new set of OEM springs on order and I'm expecting now I'll be able to get the correct idle and clutch engagement speeds out of it. The compression of this saw is 175, much higher than most other used saws of this class that I've seen advertised and the piston, rings and cylinder are immaculate, so I'm expecting to get $175 for it. It does have the Easy2Start and toolless chain adjuster, so it's got all the bells and whistles available on a stock saw. Now I've got it mostly restored and cutting really well I almost hate to part with it. This thing starts, idles, throttles up, runs WOT really well and cuts like a beast! I like all the extra's on this saw like the oil and fuel level viewing windows, toolless chain adjust (which also makes it quicker and easier to remove the clutch cover for cleaning), Easy2Start, quick removal toolless top cover (which makes it dead easy to clean the air filter often). This thing was really well designed and should please any knowledgeable user.
You sure went the hard way to connect throttle linkage. All you have to do is work your throttle up then come in underneath with hooked end of linkage: then slightly bend the end to slip in the hole. Works good at full throttle. I really like this carburetor.
@@VincesDIYsI did take linkage off. I had the carb slipped up a bit and with pliers bent the hooked end linkage to meet throttle accuator of carburetor. 100% throttle function.
Good video! I own a wood lot and have three Stihl chainsaws that I cut firewood with. My largest is an 18-inch 029 Farm Boss (21 yrs old and never been to a shop) and the 170 which I used for the first time last month. The 170 seems half the weight of the 029 and it saves me the fatigue of the 029. Its so nimble to use and ideal for small trees, branches and bucking. It's like comparing a revolver to a rifle. I have always used a 45:1 fuel ratio in all of my saws which seems to work well.
I have a 029 FB that has cut a a lot of firewood over 22 years. And I also have the ms 170- great little saw. As a three years ago, I added a 461 use that almost exclusively.
Good job. My 170 is my limbing saw. I run a 12" bar, 3/8 pitch. I recently gave it a new coil and new carb. A new plug and air filter too. Runs great and I enjoy its gutsy but light weight style. easy to work on. I have a 460 husqvarna with a 28" Notch bar, that I run a skip tooth full chisel chain on. With the two of them, I can take down or climb nearly any tree I am likely to encounter. the 170 hangs from my belt/harness when I climb. Great saw. Good job on the video. George.
i hate the weight of husqvarna saws this saw is the ultimate in weight can be used one handed if the other hand is needed in a quick pinch. stay safe up there always 3 points of contact and you will never fall.
I liked the 170 as is, but the micro chains burned out so quickly. Swapped out with a 14” bar and new sprocket, got the .050 chisel on there now. And I did the tensioner between the studs instead of behind the bar, for convenience sake. It was a very easy swap. Interesting thing there is, the saw is set up for the tensioner between the studs, why stihl doesn’t just put that on there stock I do not know. Also threw the metal spikes on there, cause I like having the extra leverage. And I tell you what, it’s a completely different saw. It’s lighter, faster, and has better balance in the hand. Used stihl parts for everything cause I’m a purist and I got mad stacks!! Just kidding, I got no money, but I am a purist. Use genuine stihl parts for best performance. Thanks for the video guy, fun to watch the mechanical process.
I have this little saw for cleaning up storm damaged trees and keeping limbs trimmed , mine is an older model 170 as my muffler is pretty hollow to begin with and I have not babied it either, I finally decided to clean it up- tune up because the thing just keeps running without a hitch ...I may take the 16inch bar off and put on a 14 with a more aggressive chain...the stihl oil gums up the screen in the muffler so I switched to red armor oil mix and it burns cleaner, also the stihl file sharpener is probably the best out there
Well done. Good skills. One suggestion. When drilling anything at risk of flying shavings I make sure the shop vac is catching them. I even converted an old spring arm desk lamp as a third hand to hold things like the vac hose in place when needed. Have a better new year.
Man, best & most detailed modification video I’ve seen on this model. Going to try 3 or 4 of your suggestions. Enjoyed the cutting demonstration too 👍🪵😎
Finally tryed the 14" bar with full chisel chain, modified muffler and adjustable carb! Do it if your thinking about it! Damn things a little beast now!. No need for advanced timing in my opnion.
I put a set of steel bucking spikes on my ms 171, too. It did not come with any. I had bought a set for an M180 that I gave to my daughter. One went on my MS 170 and the other one went on my MS 171. I had to go to my local Stihl dealer and get two 5M D screws. I used two 16MM length screws on the MS 170 but I had to shorten the screws for the MS171 to about 3/4” for the top screw and about 7/8” for the bottom screw. I cut them off with my Dremel with a cutoff wheel. I put Lock tite on them and screwed them in with my impact, after hand starting them with my 27Torx Tee wrench. You do not want to bottom out in the bottom hole and allow the bolt to contact the muffler in the top hole.
@@VincesDIYs I just got them longer and cut them to fit. I don’t know the metric system. My dial mic is in inches, as are most of my other tools. I did not measure them after I cut them off. Just eyeballed them. Anything short of hitting the muffler or bottoming out in the bottom hole is fine.
I checked my relatively new Ms 170 on the tach. I was appalled - it read 14,500 and change. I will not run a saw this fast. So I bought an adjustable carb for my 170, but it would not fit, so I decided to put my original carb back on. Two things I noticed were the plugs in the jet holes had what appeared to be minute Torx bit sockets in them. I worked under two assumptions - the manufacturer (Zama) had to have a mechanical means to install these plugs and any plug would have to be shaped like a normal jet in order to disperse the fuel into the carb in an atomized fashion. I decided to see if I had a small screwdriver that would fit that ultra small socket, so I got out my jewelers screwdriver set and found a slot blade that fit this small socket. I then turned the H jet plug out 1/4 turn, just like I would do to any H jet where the saw was to lean. I then put the 170 back together, no easy task. I then cranked it up and let it warm up for five minutes. Everything worked normally. After five minutes I put my inductive tach on it. It read 13,050, a little high but a lot better than 14,500. I may richen it up a smidge, later, because I like 12,600-12,800 for most saws. Anytime someone tells you the jets on an ms 170 cannot be adjusted - they are wrong, they can, but it is rather difficult. You must remove the air box and pull the carb out a bit and have a small screwdriver to adjust the plugs (jets).
I never realized how much better husqvarna is than stihl until I saw you take apart yours. I have a 440 and it's just built so much better. Tears threw huge 20inch diameter oak (wider than the saw is long) I have on my property like nothing. Much higher ram's, and the throttle is much more responsive.
Your husqvarna 440 is roughly 360 bucks and 2.5 hp. The stihl MS170 is 200 bucks and 1.7 hp in factory configuration. The equivalent stihl saw to your husqvarna is probably the Stihl MS251 Wood Boss. It cost 380 Bucks and makes 3hp.
Proper mentenence and clean tools regulary.. i just love when i see people taking care of their tools..no matter what they are using them for.. If you take care of your tools they will keep serving you for a life time. Nice work with those upgrades.. Cheers.
Yeah, those really are great mods. I'd like to do the muffler mod, bar and chain mod, spike mod and the side chain adjust, after the warranty is done. Pretty cool Vince, appreciate the work you put into this.
I got two bucking spikes to me not to set a damn bearing for my sprocket bearing two studs To Nuts The Sidewinder tensioner and I can't remember what else but all for $9 free shipping
Yes exactly. I was wondering why it's not required/recommended, that the sprocket be upgraded too when going to a thicker gauge setup? I know that when I put the Baily's 1/4" .043 carving bar setup on my MS210, it came with a two piece rim sprocket and drum. This was changing from the standard 3/8" .050 single piece drum sprocket and 16inch bar setup.
I changed the bar and chain on my 170 few year back. Iv used it up trees limbing when my top Handel was playing up. Nice wee back up saw in case of emergencies👍🏻
Another mod you can do that really made mine sing even more was changing to the optional 1/4p sprocket and running a 12” 1/4p chain which has a narrower kerf.
@Food Afield Podcast narrow kerf means the drivers/cutting teeth have less surface area to drive through which means more torque or pounds of force per cutting surface area. Think of it this way, if I gave you a 1/8” metal wire and asked you to push it into the dirt you wouldn’t have much trouble but if I ask you to do the same with a 3” round metal rod you’d need a tool to help you exert more force on the object to push it into the dirt. Since you’re working with a small engine with limited displacement you can get more performance by reducing the load placed on the engine. Normally to get more torque you need raw displacement. You can always get more horsepower out of it for when it tops out and gets going but under a lot of load it will struggle. Similar principle to reducing the weight or aerodynamic drag on a race car but in this case it’s the load being placed on the cutting teeth by narrowing them. If you ever go to a Stihl dealer look at the two chains next to each other.
Labas! Galiu pasakyti kad rimtas geras pjuklas 17_18. Karburatorius turi paprasta sistema! Variklis tvirtai su rinktas! Galingumo pa kanka stumoklis turi du ziedus! Naujos laidos karburatoriu ne vertinu! Aciu kad pasidalinote! 😉👍👍👍
Carburettor modification looks like a 'pain in the keyster'! I wouldn't touch the timing; make sure you back out your high speed carby screw a touch if you advance the timing. Overall a job well done. Thanks for posting this video.
I learned a few things here, Thank you for a well done video. I am surprised that you did'nt mention the Oregon fast sharpening chain and blade setup using a half moon grindstone setup on the blade tip. I got one off Amazon and will only use this type now. Amazing time saver.
I can only say two things. If you are setting your depth gauges like they say. Try taking two more passes off of them. Your chain will bite way more.Then just let you bar rest on the log rather then try to push through it. But otherwise love the video and your attention to details and cleaning your saw. Oh yeah I liked and you know the rest
I got one just like it I just finished porting stock bar and chain running 110 Sunco and full synthetic klotz oil fastest 170 I ever seen I use it for tree work mostly
I had the same problem when I put a Stihl carb on my Farmertec ms 360. The throttle rod would not clear the big area that surrounds the adjustment screws on all Stihl carbs. Since my Farmertec carb was identical to my Stihl carb - both being Zama C3A carbs, I decided to use my original carb until I can get a Stihl throttle rod for my ms 360. I will also have to order a new grommet for the carb adjusters, since the holes are smaller in the one I have on my 360. I could drill out the holes but would rather have the correct grommet.
@@VincesDIYs yes, pretty easy - the Farmertec carb is squirrelly. I cannot get it to tune properly. I had the same problem on my MS 460. I switched it and it runs a lot better, now. I am not the only one who has had problems with Chinese carbs. They work but not as good as oem carbs, throttle rods, throttles and master control levers. I have also usually switched out these parts, too. I am a stihl man and I like my saws, whether Farmertec or Stihl, to crank and run the same way. When they don’t I replace parts until they do. My 460 beat me to death for a while but not anymore, but it has quite a few oem parts.
for cleaning your saw i suggest a hook and pick set i use one for my saw and its great for all the little oiler ports and creveses with a cuopon you can get one at harbor freight for 99 cents but other wise about five dollars.
I did all this except the flywheel mod on a MS180. However realised that a full chisel ( 63PS) was a bit beyond its capability. It pulls the rpm at full throttle the bottom end of its torque range in the cut. Things improved a lot when I used a semi chisel 63 PM. But then found there was some unutilised power, so I tried full chisel with bumper link the PS3 and found it to be the best
one of the very few videos with excellent accurate information. I would question why take the most basic low power model and modify the bar,chain,adjuster,muffler,carburettor and ignition timing rather than buy a higher spec model in the first place that would also have a higher chain speed, lower vibration levels, better power to weight ratio and be more durable.
I bought this 2nd hand for $50. With the part I still have less than $80-$90 into it. But i do have bigger saws for larger wood. This is now a nice limbing saw or a saw for my 14 year old son to use.
No replacement for displacement and rpm. But ya I agree why mod such a basic tiny saw just get a bigger one. And a bucking bar lol never heard the dogs called that.
Great, quick-to-the-point video, with no slo-mo screw removal nor any overbearing music. I have a 170 and will do the muffler mods. The flywheel mod is too risky, in my opinion, as only friction is preventing the flywheel from shifting back. But... I only use Shell highest octane gasoline because of the lack of ethanol in it which may also allow advanced timing without pre-ignition. If I were to advance the timing I would surely only use the highest octane gas. If one is worried about the flywheel shifting, cut small strips of spring steel to fit in the gap created by the filing of the key. The flywheel nut should hold the spring slivers in place.
Thanks for the feedback! Good point, I always used high octane non-ethanol gas. If the flywheel shifts, at worse it will go back to stock timing. But for a good solid reliable saw, I would probably leave the flywheel stock - I just wanted to see how much if any difference it would make.
@@VincesDIYs I didn’t see this part in the video but how did you mount the aftermarket bumper guard? I see on the saw there’s one threaded hole by the plastic bumper but where did you screw in the lower bolt?
Just curious about the muffler mod. I know it produces a good deal more power but it was my understanding that 2 stroke engines were really finicky about back pressure. If there's not enough the engine has a good chance of over revving and burning itself out or blowing up in extreme cases. Since the saw is only meant for light duty anyway for myself I would rather take a bit more time and not risk over working the engine. That being said i think all your other mods for making the saw work more efficiently and improving the user experience are great! And I have ordered the new chain tensioner and a new chain already for my saw.
Hi Seth, Your chainsaw should not over rev as generally you are full throttle when in wood. Max rpms can also be set when tuning. Tuning 2-strokes with the muffler/pipe is more of an art with dirt bikes etc but they use a special pipe, not muffler like chainsaws. Some reading here on the topic - forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100898.0
Now that you have changed the timing,you can now play with the high speed jet until the dieseling is adjusted out, you want it to Rev the highest, that's when it is producing the most power. Engine life will be shortened by increasing power,but it's fun to play with toys. 😊😊
I agree. I have an 044 thats about 20 years old and the only thing it needs sometimes is a carb tune. I also have the 170 for around the house doing little trees and limbs. Runs great and fast for a little saw
@@markatkinson9963 Stihl ms194. We recently bought forest from my wifes parents, I might do something there myself also, so I went with the light weight one (trees there are small enough for that saw).
@@jannek5757 cool. That is a tree top top handle saw if I recall? I just bought a 180 myself. So far it's been a good little saw cleaning up branches around the house. Good luck to yours!
@@markatkinson9963 Thanks and same to you! It is a regular saw but piston/engine direction is horizontal. I have cut a few medium size trees (about same as in video) from my yard and only done some tests in real forest. Good enough. If I need more speed and power in future, then I think I will upgrade to bigger Stihl/Husqvarna.
I put a 14 inch bar on my 170. I was actually able to get a more robust stihl 14 inch bar. It looks so much better on the saw and it cuts great. I'm putting some spikes on it too.
I got hand noticeably more torque at idle/revving and in cutting from my 170 by drilling out the muffler and opening up the exhaust outflow from the muffler with a common screwdriver.
Don't listen to this guy. Theres enough back pressure just going through a small turn up & out. Ported REALLY PORTED chainsaws have the least amount resistance in any flow area. Gut those mufflers people. & get rid of that God damn screen! Unless of course you live in California. Nah, still remove the screen.,
I had this same model . Constant starter problems! I used ethanol free pre mixed gas . I finally traded it towards a tree cutting job and gave him some cash too
An 8mm socket fits those muffler nuts too. The screen is stainless steel so you can burn it clean with a propane torch without melting it. This country is covered with dead Brome grass in the spring and fall. It burns about like gasoline so I never run without the screen. A T27 Torx is the best fit on most Stihl screws.
Not sure that little saw is worth all those upgrades. I have the 360, the 261 and the 170. For the little trimming of branches I do with it it’s fine. Good info though!
Hey, Vince! Thanks for your comprehensive video. I've done all the same mods to my 170. However, I'm struggling to get the saw to start with the master control lever in the normal run position. I need to keep the trigger pressed in, or put the lever on high idle. Yours seems to start no problem. I used and OEM Walbro W-215. Any ideas? Thanks. Mike
Have you checked your idle screw? If not then idle screw, you low jet screw may be off. Try turn it out a 1/4 turn at a time and see if that makes a difference.
Nice video and great ideas for my ms170. Been leaking oil since the day I bought it though, finally replaced the oil line and seemed to stop. Can you link that vise you’re using, or drop the name/brand? Snap-on vises are great, but not worth 1000$ IMO, would rather buy another chainsaw 😂
I don’t soup up chainsaws. If I want to cut faster, I just grab a bigger saw and I have them. I don’t like the .043 gage chain on the 170 but it cuts good. I wish it was .050 but I am not putting a shorter bar on it just to use the .050 chain. You have to be real careful putting the .043 chain back on the 170 because the drags can get caught in the space between the sprocket and sprocket washer. This will lock up the saw if you start it. Always rotate the chain on the bar after installation to make sure it is on the sprocket correctly.
@@VincesDIYs yep, but you have to put a shorter bar on it. I have an .16 inch 050 bar and chain on my ms 241. I may try it on the 170 to see how it runs. The both use a 3/8 Pico chain.
I absolutely loved this content.. Just when you think you have found all the good chainsaw channels, i see this video... Honestly, great editing great music, amazing tips, and yeah, nice result.. Im wondering, do you think porting it would make any better performance? I have inherited my dads old 017. Been having alot of fun trying to fix it, but just when i thought this would be it, it still wouldn't start.. after being disapointed for a few days and having a sore shoulder, ive ordered some new parts and ill keep trying.
Wow, thanks for the kind comments! Not sure about the porting. Probably would make a difference but it is a bit more tricky. Start with basic’s, spark and fuel. I would say 90% of small engine starting problems are carb issues. All the best with your 017
Hi Guly, 017 doesn't have a large cc capacity, so even if you port it successfully, the benefit probably isn't worth it. Use it to familiarize yourself with 2 stroke engines, and try porting once you graduate onto bigger saws. Stay safe, always wear protection, and God Bless!
Haha. Yup that how it goes. Next video will be using it taking down some tricky trees (up in a lift). I’m am working on an old 66cc pioneer chainsaw as well. Less modding and more getting it back into good working condition.
@@93Bubu93 jeszcze nie kupiłem gaźnika bo po wymianie prowadnicy i łańcucha na oregon 325 wchodzi w drewno jak w masło . Niespełna polowe wolniej od pilarki o nocy 3.5 km Echo japan. Jak zmienię to dam znaka ale napewno da trochę kopa
Make sure when you install a side adjuster you crease the gears on the adjuster self before you covered it up And I recommend getting OEM MS250 chain adjuster!it fits right in....
@@VincesDIYsthank just looked up to this video again and im still very happy i didnt do it on the plate because i didnt feel a change it just got louder Still faster than a ms181
May I suggest when u want to clean your chainsaw: spraying all the surfaces w non-flammable spray brake cleaner, w red thin spray tube. Let sit a few minutes on an old plastic tarp, then spray off w an airgun nozzle from any size compressor. Take your time tilting the saw, dislodging any brake cleaner left in any nooks or crannies, blow off again w an airgun. I Used this cleaning technique successfully for the last 7 of 36 yrs of using chainsaws. I usually clean my chainsaws this way after 3 days of heavy chainsaw use. I usually clean the bar channel the same way, file the bar if sharp edges, air spin the bar geared wheel, lubricate wheel so it spins freely and effortlessly. I usually spray all outside of bar, inside chain cover where oil and wood debris get gummed up, w silicone...seems it helps a little bit, so gunk sticks a bit less. I was actually thinking of using the new Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic spray wax I have been using detailing the family cars (any ceramic or detail spray brand is fine) on the chain cover, inside/outside...maybe plastic exterior pieces that attract grunge too. The ceramic spray wax requires one small spritz on any single surface, quite economical/efficient use of much less time vs non-ceramic spray wax. Seems ceramic spray wax has excellent, long lasting hydrophobic (water shedding, water sheets off surfaces faster and longer), might....be worth a try to avoid grunge sticking to plastic surfaces a lot less? Who knows, but worth a few minutes to try it out, vs coating surfaces w silicone that rarely keeps grunge off for more than 1-2 weeks?
George Martin, if u r not joking.... not on inside...of the mower deck...I tried many diff coatings, epoxy paints, silicone, etc....under mower deck any coating gets sandblasted by mower debris in several weeks. Topside of deck, bagger Shute, tractor hoods, engine non-hot covers...a ceramic wax might work. I do wanna try it on inside and outside of broadcast fertilizer hopper...lime, fertilizer, grass seed....never seem to rinse off completely...nice thing about these new hybrid sprays is they are 1-2 spritzers, rub in, buff off in a few minutes on anything u need a slick surface on. Previous waxes were not easy to apply, never bothered to experiment w them
@@MrWkendwarrior No, I wasn't joking. But now that you mention it, it makes sense about getting sandblasted out. You are right about the ease of ceramics, that's the only reason I considered trying it. By the way, I use that Mequires on my windshield. It's like RainX from hell! I barely even have to use my wipers, and in the summer when I crank the AC and get condensation on the bottom of the windshield, it just blows off at around 50 mph! Thanks for the reply!
I am doing the felling dogs & side adjuster mods (once the parts arrive), the plastic dogs are juat crap and sometimes you juat need some bite, and the standard adjuster jams up with crap all the time. I removed the spark arrerstor & opened up the muffler with a dremel (area you used the stepped bit on).
Good homeowner DIY Tips, Thx! Spraying WD40 and an air gun cleans a dirty saw in no time, and the felling dogs, bumper spikes can be used while cutting thru your pcs, a simple stab and rotating while you cut, repeat, might not be that helpful on such a small saw, definitely a clean spark arrestor screen makes a huge saw performance improvement,so regularly overlooked.
@Michael Fresh , I've got Stihl and never had a problem with it. I've had Husqvarna and other Husqvarna brand related products and they've all been shit. I've blown the heads on two Husqvarna chainsaws and stripped the bores on another two Husqvarna chainsaws. With my Stihl chainsaws I've never had any problems. With regards to the chainbar oil, I've turned mine up a little but never had an issue with oil coming out in the wrong place.
Touch of grease on the inner clutch bearing wouldn’t go a miss!! Lol. Open all our saws exhaust wise. All are mtronic stihls from ms 241-ms 661. 5 years, awsome use, and never miss a beat. Only use stihl products including bars, chain sets and ultra oil. Bar oil is Oregon as stihl bar oil is &&&&!. Great videos and thanks for your time👍👍
Yea. 170s are garbage in production tree work. A boss i didnt care much for bought on one time & I got so disgusted with it I chucked it in the chipper. That beast Hurricane barely felt that heap of plastic going through it... that day was a win for the good guys!
@@VincesDIYs I still use my dad's Poo-lan. It's 24 years old with a 24" bar. Needs work now, it won't idle lol. She still gets used every year though, probably cut 200+ cords.
Nice upgrades. At work we have 6 stihl ms200t that already have the upgrades you added but they are stock on the ms200T like the side tention and the teeth spike grip plus full chisel chain. And i think the cutting bar is about the same... stihl is a very good brand and we have many other tools :-)
This is interesting. I was looking as my MS170 stopped working the other day. I've taken the carb apart to clean it. A new spark plug as the old one was there since new, about four years old. It still didn't start. I've checked the spark against the head and it seems intermittent, so maybe a new part required. But despite that, I found this video useful. I already have a shorter bar on mine (14"), as purchased, so don't think a short one will make that much difference. The exhaust mod might though.
Well i ordered an adjustable carb lets hope it works well on the saw.
Hope it works out!
It finnaly arrived, i put it and it runs like a charm. Great video Vince!
@@Vipex_134 glad it was helpful!
I am a factory trained Stihl mechanic and the MS170 is a fantastic saw for the home owner, for storm cleanup, small trees and cutting branches. Yesterday I had a not running 170, manufactured in Aug/2004, come in with aftermarket (Chinese) parts. I performed a complete engine check, which includes pressure/vacuum test of the case. After verifying the engine was sealed and mechanically sound i replaced the after market parts with factory parts, including the carb. The saw fired on the third pull and is cutting great. The parts and labor for the repair was $93.00
I believe your cutting performance increase is the result of the bar & chain swap you performed with the shorter bar length being negligible. The stock bar & chain for the 170 is .043 gauge 3/8" Picco (aka LP) semi-chisel chain 61PMM3. You installed a .050 gauge 3/8" Picco full chisel chain 63PS. The larger .050 gauge permits a larger cutter while maintaining the same chain pitch. The .050 gauge 3/8" Picco is my recommended upgrade to the 170 and is the stock bar & chain for the top handle saws and the MS 211.
Upgrading the bar and chain made the biggest difference along with opening the muffler. I used the smaller bar as I have bigger saws for larger wood. Reality is that can pull a 14" or 16" chain if it was someones only saw.
Just bought a 170 about 3 months ago in shop three times already
@@dennisbedford6314 what have the issues been?
That’s not good. I have not had any issues with this one.
Thanks have a 5020 as well. It’s really a different saw but I like it. Especially for the price.
“It aint got no gas innit” - A wise man
Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
The MS170 is a gas powered saw, which is the subject of this video. You might want to see if there is a California compliant sight that you can post on.
Of all the saws I have my 170 is probably my favourite. Power to weight ratio is brilliant. It's a gutsy little saw
I used my MS290 farm boss for everthing then relized smaller is better for doing limbing, so bought an MS170 for that
Agreed they are an excellent saw..
a little trick, when you tighten the chain, always rest the bar nose on something, or pull it up with your hand. it'll keep your chain tight. if you don't it'll often get loose on the first cut.
Great tip, Thanks!
Rolling the chain on the bar manually. And tightening 2x does well for me. I use to hole the bar up w a screw driver if it had a hole. But it's a pain
After this video I purchased a MS 170. This was last year and I have to say this chainsaw is really great one of my favorites because lightweight. I got also a 026 and 044.
Nice. I’d love to get an 026 and 044. Maybe someday :)
Me: “gonna knock out this little 30 min project, just gonna clean of my workbench”
Me 6 hours later: “ what was it I came in here to do?”
I really appreciate you not editing out the LEARNING CURVE MOMENTS those are the most educating parts
Yup, learn most from mistakes :)
Cool Video.
Just one Tip:
You mentioned torx T25.
The proper size is T27. On the long run much better for your screws.
Good to know - Thanks!
My dad gave me a Ms 170 with a 16 inch bar a couple years ago I used it every day to cut everything from a branch to making 2*2 and even 12*12 it's the only thing I could afford but now I just bought a Ms250 which is such a great improvement but when I get a 18 inch bar for it I'm going to make a 10 high by 15 wide and 45 long truck ramp for my future truck but I love the videos
I'm a little late to the party, but thank you for making this video. I did the tensioner and bucking spike upgrade to my saw. It was very simple and greatly improved the utility of the saw. It made an already good saw a great saw for me.
Nice! Glad it was useful.
I'm extra late but my son purchased one for a side job an I was impressed. Been I. Tree work 20+ for the price can't wait to do these lil mods! Thanx
Hey, Vince, me again. When I saw this video I understood about most of the mods already and was only envying that Yost vice.
A couple weeks ago a friend asked me to come up with a used saw for use around the home and said they'd been looking at the 170. Turns out another friend (arborist) had given me a 180C a while back and I was saving it for myself but hadn't really had a chance to inspect fully, restore and get it going. I decided, since I learned these two were so similar, that I'd fix this one up for them.
I figured out why someone had given my buddy this saw for free. It had overheated and blown out the clutch drum bearing as well as melting some of the plastic parts a little. (I suspect someone ran it with the brake on.) Now that I've worked on it and tuned it as much as possible (fixed jets OEM carb) I realize the clutch springs were weakened. This must have been due to the overheat event. That's why I can only get the chain to stop running if I turn the idle way down, plus the clutch engage speed is much lower than the 4100 spec. I've got a new set of OEM springs on order and I'm expecting now I'll be able to get the correct idle and clutch engagement speeds out of it.
The compression of this saw is 175, much higher than most other used saws of this class that I've seen advertised and the piston, rings and cylinder are immaculate, so I'm expecting to get $175 for it. It does have the Easy2Start and toolless chain adjuster, so it's got all the bells and whistles available on a stock saw.
Now I've got it mostly restored and cutting really well I almost hate to part with it. This thing starts, idles, throttles up, runs WOT really well and cuts like a beast! I like all the extra's on this saw like the oil and fuel level viewing windows, toolless chain adjust (which also makes it quicker and easier to remove the clutch cover for cleaning), Easy2Start, quick removal toolless top cover (which makes it dead easy to clean the air filter often). This thing was really well designed and should please any knowledgeable user.
Thanks for sharing. Looks like a 180 is a nice upgrade to a 170
You sure went the hard way to connect throttle linkage. All you have to do is work your throttle up then come in underneath with hooked end of linkage: then slightly bend the end to slip in the hole. Works good at full throttle. I really like this carburetor.
I had no problem connecting it but when it was connected it only gave 0-75% throttle.
@@VincesDIYsI did take linkage off. I had the carb slipped up a bit and with pliers bent the hooked end linkage to meet throttle accuator of carburetor. 100% throttle function.
@@michaelthomas7178 nice. I’ll have to try again next time.
Good video! I own a wood lot and have three Stihl chainsaws that I cut firewood with. My largest is an 18-inch 029 Farm Boss (21 yrs old and never been to a shop) and the 170 which I used for the first time last month. The 170 seems half the weight of the 029 and it saves me the fatigue of the 029. Its so nimble to use and ideal for small trees, branches and bucking. It's like comparing a revolver to a rifle. I have always used a 45:1 fuel ratio in all of my saws which seems to work well.
Glad you liked the video! Yes, the 170 is definitely nicer for the small stuff.
I have a 029 FB that has cut a a lot of firewood over 22 years. And I also have the ms 170- great little saw. As a three years ago, I added a 461 use that almost exclusively.
Finally someone as ocd about clean equipment as me great video tyvm..
Glad you enjoyed!
Good job. My 170 is my limbing saw. I run a 12" bar, 3/8 pitch. I recently gave it a new coil and new carb. A new plug and air filter too. Runs great and I enjoy its gutsy but light weight style. easy to work on. I have a 460 husqvarna with a 28" Notch bar, that I run a skip tooth full chisel chain on. With the two of them, I can take down or climb nearly any tree I am likely to encounter. the 170 hangs from my belt/harness when I climb. Great saw. Good job on the video. George.
i hate the weight of husqvarna saws this saw is the ultimate in weight can be used one handed if the other hand is needed in a quick pinch. stay safe up there always 3 points of contact and you will never fall.
@@oldschoolfoil2365 right on
I liked the 170 as is, but the micro chains burned out so quickly.
Swapped out with a 14” bar and new sprocket, got the .050 chisel on there now.
And I did the tensioner between the studs instead of behind the bar, for convenience sake. It was a very easy swap. Interesting thing there is, the saw is set up for the tensioner between the studs, why stihl doesn’t just put that on there stock I do not know.
Also threw the metal spikes on there, cause I like having the extra leverage.
And I tell you what, it’s a completely different saw.
It’s lighter, faster, and has better balance in the hand.
Used stihl parts for everything cause I’m a purist and I got mad stacks!!
Just kidding, I got no money, but I am a purist. Use genuine stihl parts for best performance.
Thanks for the video guy, fun to watch the mechanical process.
Nice! It is interesting how it is setup for the side tensions. I suspect they don’t include it so people will buy the 180 as an upgrade.
what kind of sprocket?
I have this little saw for cleaning up storm damaged trees and keeping limbs trimmed , mine is an older model 170 as my muffler is pretty hollow to begin with and I have not babied it either, I finally decided to clean it up- tune up because the thing just keeps running without a hitch ...I may take the 16inch bar off and put on a 14 with a more aggressive chain...the stihl oil gums up the screen in the muffler so I switched to red armor oil mix and it burns cleaner, also the stihl file sharpener is probably the best out there
Well done. Good skills. One suggestion. When drilling anything at risk of flying shavings I make sure the shop vac is catching them. I even converted an old spring arm desk lamp as a third hand to hold things like the vac hose in place when needed.
Have a better new year.
Great idea, thanks!
Man, best & most detailed modification video I’ve seen on this model. Going to try 3 or 4 of your suggestions. Enjoyed the cutting demonstration too 👍🪵😎
Glad it was helpful!
Finally tryed the 14" bar with full chisel chain, modified muffler and adjustable carb! Do it if your thinking about it! Damn things a little beast now!. No need for advanced timing in my opnion.
Nice! Agree about the timing - negligible difference.
I put a set of steel bucking spikes on my ms 171, too. It did not come with any. I had bought a set for an M180 that I gave to my daughter. One went on my MS 170 and the other one went on my MS 171. I had to go to my local Stihl dealer and get two 5M D screws. I used two 16MM length screws on the MS 170 but I had to shorten the screws for the MS171 to about 3/4” for the top screw and about 7/8” for the bottom screw. I cut them off with my Dremel with a cutoff wheel. I put Lock tite on them and screwed them in with my impact, after hand starting them with my 27Torx Tee wrench. You do not want to bottom out in the bottom hole and allow the bolt to contact the muffler in the top hole.
Thanks John, The link I shared in the description has the correct length screws.
@@VincesDIYs I just got them longer and cut them to fit. I don’t know the metric system. My dial mic is in inches, as are most of my other tools. I did not measure them after I cut them off. Just eyeballed them. Anything short of hitting the muffler or bottoming out in the bottom hole is fine.
I checked my relatively new Ms 170 on the tach. I was appalled - it read 14,500 and change. I will not run a saw this fast. So I bought an adjustable carb for my 170, but it would not fit, so I decided to put my original carb back on.
Two things I noticed were the plugs in the jet holes had what appeared to be minute Torx bit sockets in them. I worked under two assumptions - the manufacturer (Zama) had to have a mechanical means to install these plugs and any plug would have to be shaped like a normal jet in order to disperse the fuel into the carb in an atomized fashion.
I decided to see if I had a small screwdriver that would fit that ultra small socket, so I got out my jewelers screwdriver set and found a slot blade that fit this small socket.
I then turned the H jet plug out 1/4 turn, just like I would do to any H jet where the saw was to lean. I then put the 170 back together, no easy task.
I then cranked it up and let it warm up for five minutes. Everything worked normally. After five minutes I put my inductive tach on it. It read 13,050, a little high but a lot better than 14,500. I may richen it up a smidge, later, because I like 12,600-12,800 for most saws.
Anytime someone tells you the jets on an ms 170 cannot be adjusted - they are wrong, they can, but it is rather difficult. You must remove the air box and pull the carb out a bit and have a small screwdriver to adjust the plugs (jets).
Good to know. Thanks for sharing!
Small engines like that are meant to run higher rpm. My 70cc saws hit 13500 out of the wood. My 43cc saw 14500. Going richer reduces power in the cut.
I never realized how much better husqvarna is than stihl until I saw you take apart yours. I have a 440 and it's just built so much better. Tears threw huge 20inch diameter oak (wider than the saw is long) I have on my property like nothing. Much higher ram's, and the throttle is much more responsive.
This is a cheap homeowners version.
Your husqvarna 440 is roughly 360 bucks and 2.5 hp. The stihl MS170 is 200 bucks and 1.7 hp in factory configuration. The equivalent stihl saw to your husqvarna is probably the Stihl MS251 Wood Boss. It cost 380 Bucks and makes 3hp.
Proper mentenence and clean tools regulary.. i just love when i see people taking care of their tools..no matter what they are using them for.. If you take care of your tools they will keep serving you for a life time. Nice work with those upgrades.. Cheers.
Thanks!
Thank you about the video and greetings from Finland. Just placed my order of side tensioner and spikes.
You are welcome! Glad I could help
You can also advance the timing by shaving the flywheel key and relocating for a few degrees advance
Yeah, those really are great mods. I'd like to do the muffler mod, bar and chain mod, spike mod and the side chain adjust, after the warranty is done. Pretty cool Vince, appreciate the work you put into this.
Yes, those 4 are relatively easy and will make your saw better.
I got two bucking spikes to me not to set a damn bearing for my sprocket bearing two studs To Nuts The Sidewinder tensioner and I can't remember what else but all for $9 free shipping
There’s less friction using a rim and drum over a sprocket. The combination of a rim and drum plus a sprocket nose bar this setup is rollerized.
Yes exactly. I was wondering why it's not required/recommended, that the sprocket be upgraded too when going to a thicker gauge setup? I know that when I put the Baily's 1/4" .043 carving bar setup on my MS210, it came with a two piece rim sprocket and drum. This was changing from the standard 3/8" .050 single piece drum sprocket and 16inch bar setup.
I changed the bar and chain on my 170 few year back. Iv used it up trees limbing when my top Handel was playing up. Nice wee back up saw in case of emergencies👍🏻
Yes, I also like it for limbing the smaller stuff after dropping a tree.
Michael Fresh lol it is what it is. It's a back up saw at best.
Another mod you can do that really made mine sing even more was changing to the optional 1/4p sprocket and running a 12” 1/4p chain which has a narrower kerf.
@Food Afield Podcast narrow kerf means the drivers/cutting teeth have less surface area to drive through which means more torque or pounds of force per cutting surface area. Think of it this way, if I gave you a 1/8” metal wire and asked you to push it into the dirt you wouldn’t have much trouble but if I ask you to do the same with a 3” round metal rod you’d need a tool to help you exert more force on the object to push it into the dirt. Since you’re working with a small engine with limited displacement you can get more performance by reducing the load placed on the engine. Normally to get more torque you need raw displacement. You can always get more horsepower out of it for when it tops out and gets going but under a lot of load it will struggle. Similar principle to reducing the weight or aerodynamic drag on a race car but in this case it’s the load being placed on the cutting teeth by narrowing them. If you ever go to a Stihl dealer look at the two chains next to each other.
@Food Afield Podcast 12" bar makes a minimal difference, the chain made the difference. I wanted a small bar to make the saw more nimble for limbing.
You are a genius sir...i have a Stihl chainsaw ms170 and not running well it's flooding and not stay running but no parts here were I'm from ..
Would not say that I am a genius.... Did you order a new carb or carb rebuild kit?
I upgraded my ms170 to an ms250. Made a drastic difference
For sure. But I still love the 170 for light work.
Yeah theyre ok i guess if youre on a budget. We sure sell alot of them at our shop. The ms150 is a better saw but that price is pretty rough.
I mean 180 bucks vs 500 bucks lol
You could upgrade again by getting a husky
Labas! Galiu pasakyti kad rimtas geras pjuklas 17_18. Karburatorius turi paprasta sistema! Variklis tvirtai su rinktas! Galingumo pa kanka stumoklis turi du ziedus! Naujos laidos karburatoriu ne vertinu! Aciu kad pasidalinote! 😉👍👍👍
The good 'ol small engine mechanics brush, part number C01G47E
Took a second. Nice 😄
Carburettor modification looks like a 'pain in the keyster'! I wouldn't touch the timing; make sure you back out your high speed carby screw a touch if you advance the timing. Overall a job well done. Thanks for posting this video.
If I did it again, I would leave the timing alone - not much of a performance change but I had to see :)
I learned a few things here, Thank you for a well done video. I am surprised that you did'nt mention the Oregon fast sharpening chain and blade setup using a half moon grindstone setup on the blade tip. I got one off Amazon and will only use this type now. Amazing time saver.
I've never used one and always thought of them as gimmicky. May have to try one now!
I can only say two things. If you are setting your depth gauges like they say. Try taking two more passes off of them. Your chain will bite way more.Then just let you bar rest on the log rather then try to push through it. But otherwise love the video and your attention to details and cleaning your saw. Oh yeah I liked and you know the rest
Thanks!
I liked this video so much I went out and bought an MS180 to turn into a hot saw, but it cut so good I haven’t done anything to it yet. 😂
Keep it as is until the warranty runs out.
I got one just like it I just finished porting stock bar and chain running 110 Sunco and full synthetic klotz oil fastest 170 I ever seen I use it for tree work mostly
You tune it for the higher octane?
@@VincesDIYs yeah I had to buy a aftermarket carburetor because the one that was on it does not have higher low jet screws
I climb with mine all the time.Longer reach than a top handle and more torque for less effort...when you push it through the wood.
@@tristanburke2451 yes, that’s why I replaced the carb as well
@@marklam8548 but don’t you find it a pain that you can’t 1 hand it vs a top handle?
Ive found in Norway 017 from 1995 and 018 1999 both brand New!!!!! Those little chainsaws are very good for homeovner
Nice, They are good little saws!
Thank you for the video, all that work, time and money you’ve put into it. Now I know I’ll leave my MS170 stock 👍
It will be a lot easier to upgrade to MS180
I had the same problem when I put a Stihl carb on my Farmertec ms 360. The throttle rod would not clear the big area that surrounds the adjustment screws on all Stihl carbs. Since my Farmertec carb was identical to my Stihl carb - both being Zama C3A carbs, I decided to use my original carb until I can get a Stihl throttle rod for my ms 360. I will also have to order a new grommet for the carb adjusters, since the holes are smaller in the one I have on my 360. I could drill out the holes but would rather have the correct grommet.
Any reason why you are switching to an oem carb?
@@VincesDIYs yes, pretty easy - the Farmertec carb is squirrelly. I cannot get it to tune properly. I had the same problem on my MS 460. I switched it and it runs a lot better, now. I am not the only one who has had problems with Chinese carbs. They work but not as good as oem carbs, throttle rods, throttles and master control levers. I have also usually switched out these parts, too. I am a stihl man and I like my saws, whether Farmertec or Stihl, to crank and run the same way. When they don’t I replace parts until they do. My 460 beat me to death for a while but not anymore, but it has quite a few oem parts.
for cleaning your saw i suggest a hook and pick set i use one for my saw and its great for all the little oiler ports and creveses with a cuopon you can get one at harbor freight for 99 cents but other wise about five dollars.
Thanks for the tip! Something like this? www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html
Thanks, I have to do some repairs on my I will be looking in to some of those upgrades.
Hope it is helpful
love my ms170, gotten my moneys worth 100x over !
I did all this except the flywheel mod on a MS180. However realised that a full chisel ( 63PS) was a bit beyond its capability. It pulls the rpm at full throttle the bottom end of its torque range in the cut. Things improved a lot when I used a semi chisel 63 PM. But then found there was some unutilised power, so I tried full chisel with bumper link the PS3 and found it to be the best
one of the very few videos with excellent accurate information. I would question why take the most basic low power model and modify the bar,chain,adjuster,muffler,carburettor and ignition timing rather than buy a higher spec model in the first place that would also have a higher chain speed, lower vibration levels, better power to weight ratio and be more durable.
I bought this 2nd hand for $50. With the part I still have less than $80-$90 into it. But i do have bigger saws for larger wood. This is now a nice limbing saw or a saw for my 14 year old son to use.
Weight is a big consideration for grandpa!
No replacement for displacement and rpm.
But ya I agree why mod such a basic tiny saw just get a bigger one. And a bucking bar lol never heard the dogs called that.
That was great. Thank you. Just bought an MS170 to go with my 390.
Glad you enjoyed!
Just cleaning it must’ve given you a .05sec advantage I reckon ;)
Yup. Should have added some stickers for a few more hp as well.
@@VincesDIYs Speedholes should help as well :)
@@VincesDIYs if you remove the air filter it weights less, which makes it cut faster.
Great, quick-to-the-point video, with no slo-mo screw removal nor any overbearing music. I have a 170 and will do the muffler mods. The flywheel mod is too risky, in my opinion, as only friction is preventing the flywheel from shifting back. But... I only use Shell highest octane gasoline because of the lack of ethanol in it which may also allow advanced timing without pre-ignition. If I were to advance the timing I would surely only use the highest octane gas. If one is worried about the flywheel shifting, cut small strips of spring steel to fit in the gap created by the filing of the key. The flywheel nut should hold the spring slivers in place.
Thanks for the feedback!
Good point, I always used high octane non-ethanol gas. If the flywheel shifts, at worse it will go back to stock timing. But for a good solid reliable saw, I would probably leave the flywheel stock - I just wanted to see how much if any difference it would make.
Excellent modifications. Just placed my order for the parts.
Thanks for this! Just got a 170 for some light duty work and wanted to add a metal bumper. This was perfect.
Happy to help!
@@VincesDIYs I didn’t see this part in the video but how did you mount the aftermarket bumper guard? I see on the saw there’s one threaded hole by the plastic bumper but where did you screw in the lower bolt?
@@giegermd You can see it here - th-cam.com/video/evleVUKFvys/w-d-xo.html
Just curious about the muffler mod. I know it produces a good deal more power but it was my understanding that 2 stroke engines were really finicky about back pressure. If there's not enough the engine has a good chance of over revving and burning itself out or blowing up in extreme cases. Since the saw is only meant for light duty anyway for myself I would rather take a bit more time and not risk over working the engine. That being said i think all your other mods for making the saw work more efficiently and improving the user experience are great! And I have ordered the new chain tensioner and a new chain already for my saw.
Hi Seth, Your chainsaw should not over rev as generally you are full throttle when in wood. Max rpms can also be set when tuning. Tuning 2-strokes with the muffler/pipe is more of an art with dirt bikes etc but they use a special pipe, not muffler like chainsaws. Some reading here on the topic - forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100898.0
Engines needing back pressure is a myth. The ability to scavenge gases is the difference.
Swap the bar out for the .50 gauge bar and chain and leave your exhast alone, you will be happy with the results. No danger of having engine issues.
Good points
Now that you have changed the timing,you can now play with the high speed jet until the dieseling is adjusted out, you want it to Rev the highest, that's when it is producing the most power. Engine life will be shortened by increasing power,but it's fun to play with toys. 😊😊
Stihls are so easy to work on, though they rarely need it.
I agree. I have an 044 thats about 20 years old and the only thing it needs sometimes is a carb tune. I also have the 170 for around the house doing little trees and limbs. Runs great and fast for a little saw
I believe I could work on them blindfolded.
It's no wonder forest fire fighters use and depend on them.
There is a reason that they go for crazy prices even when they are 20+ years old.
@@VincesDIYs Absolutely
О чудо! Она стала быстрее! Осталось только заменить поршневую и поменять пилу на 361😆
Haha
Nice, well done! Just weeks ago purchased my first chainsaw ever :D
What did you end up getting?
Welcome to to club!
@@markatkinson9963 Stihl ms194. We recently bought forest from my wifes parents, I might do something there myself also, so I went with the light weight one (trees there are small enough for that saw).
@@jannek5757 cool. That is a tree top top handle saw if I recall? I just bought a 180 myself. So far it's been a good little saw cleaning up branches around the house. Good luck to yours!
@@markatkinson9963 Thanks and same to you! It is a regular saw but piston/engine direction is horizontal. I have cut a few medium size trees (about same as in video) from my yard and only done some tests in real forest. Good enough. If I need more speed and power in future, then I think I will upgrade to bigger Stihl/Husqvarna.
I put a 14 inch bar on my 170. I was actually able to get a more robust stihl 14 inch bar. It looks so much better on the saw and it cuts great. I'm putting some spikes on it too.
Nice!
Next up race gas 110 octane mite as well you advanced the timing up the octane
I run higher octane non ethanol pump gas. I need this saw to work every day so I don't want to push it too much
@@VincesDIYs I run 91 octane no ethanol gas in all of my saws.
I have to admit that the performance is better and this for a very small price,
congratulations
Yes, and most were relatively easy
Never completely gut the muffler when your modding it you need back pressure to give the saw torque
nah
Bogus
I got hand noticeably more torque at idle/revving and in cutting from my 170 by drilling out the muffler and opening up the exhaust outflow from the muffler with a common screwdriver.
Don't listen to this guy. Theres enough back pressure just going through a small turn up & out. Ported REALLY PORTED chainsaws have the least amount resistance in any flow area. Gut those mufflers people. & get rid of that God damn screen! Unless of course you live in California. Nah, still remove the screen.,
I had this same model . Constant starter problems! I used ethanol free pre mixed gas . I finally traded it towards a tree cutting job and gave him some cash too
Haha
@@VincesDIYs It was garbage .
@@paulgrimm Mine is still working good. And it was well used when I got it.
@@VincesDIYs lucky you
Bucking Spikes - Bumper Spikes - Dogs, think its pretty much a regional term.
Great video, now I should do some changes to my MS 170. Thanks and take care.
Thanks, you too!
The log's diameter is about 20% smaller at the end :D cool video tho!
Not 20%, maybe 5%. Different camera angle, makes it look smaller.
Excellent video, I definitely will do the chain adjust, but for safety compliance will keep the spark arrest screen. The timing mod also interests me
Yes, just keep the spark arrest screen clean and you should be good.
An 8mm socket fits those muffler nuts too. The screen is stainless steel so you can burn it clean with a propane torch without melting it. This country is covered with dead Brome grass in the spring and fall. It burns about like gasoline so I never run without the screen.
A T27 Torx is the best fit on most Stihl screws.
Not sure that little saw is worth all those upgrades. I have the 360, the 261 and the 170. For the little trimming of branches I do with it it’s fine. Good info though!
Maybe not worth the time if you put a $ amount to it. But its a fun little saw now.
Was just admiring your vice and thinking I need to upgrade, when you mentioned exactly that. Blimmen psychic or something.
Haha!
Hey, Vince! Thanks for your comprehensive video. I've done all the same mods to my 170. However, I'm struggling to get the saw to start with the master control lever in the normal run position. I need to keep the trigger pressed in, or put the lever on high idle. Yours seems to start no problem. I used and OEM Walbro W-215. Any ideas? Thanks. Mike
Have you checked your idle screw? If not then idle screw, you low jet screw may be off. Try turn it out a 1/4 turn at a time and see if that makes a difference.
That was impressive I'm not real handy, fun to watch I'll try drilling out the exhaust, side tentioner, and the chain upgrade? Thanks great video.
Glad you enjoyed!
Nice video and great ideas for my ms170. Been leaking oil since the day I bought it though, finally replaced the oil line and seemed to stop. Can you link that vise you’re using, or drop the name/brand? Snap-on vises are great, but not worth 1000$ IMO, would rather buy another chainsaw 😂
It’s a Yost 750e Around $200 Canadian on Amazon.
Love all the safety equipment you are using, good one.....
I know. I sometimes feel like a safety freak……
The question is, did he "git the gullet"
Or did he “stand up an buck”
I don’t soup up chainsaws. If I want to cut faster, I just grab a bigger saw and I have them. I don’t like the .043 gage chain on the 170 but it cuts good. I wish it was .050 but I am not putting a shorter bar on it just to use the .050 chain. You have to be real careful putting the .043 chain back on the 170 because the drags can get caught in the space between the sprocket and sprocket washer. This will lock up the saw if you start it. Always rotate the chain on the bar after installation to make sure it is on the sprocket correctly.
You can get a longer bar with the .050 chain.
@@VincesDIYs yep, but you have to put a shorter bar on it. I have an .16 inch 050 bar and chain on my ms 241. I may try it on the 170 to see how it runs. The both use a 3/8 Pico chain.
I absolutely loved this content.. Just when you think you have found all the good chainsaw channels, i see this video... Honestly, great editing great music, amazing tips, and yeah, nice result.. Im wondering, do you think porting it would make any better performance?
I have inherited my dads old 017. Been having alot of fun trying to fix it, but just when i thought this would be it, it still wouldn't start.. after being disapointed for a few days and having a sore shoulder, ive ordered some new parts and ill keep trying.
Wow, thanks for the kind comments! Not sure about the porting. Probably would make a difference but it is a bit more tricky. Start with basic’s, spark and fuel. I would say 90% of small engine starting problems are carb issues. All the best with your 017
Porting is not as easy as people think, these saws aren't really worth the hassle of porting. I explain a lot about porting in my videos.
Porting isn't needed. After a few pulls of the recoil on choke, take the plug out. If it's dry, it's a carb issue.
Hi Guly, 017 doesn't have a large cc capacity, so even if you port it successfully, the benefit probably isn't worth it. Use it to familiarize yourself with 2 stroke engines, and try porting once you graduate onto bigger saws. Stay safe, always wear protection, and God Bless!
Ditto
Clean Chainsaw... Now its Time to get Her Dirty!!!
Great video on the Little Stihl, Now Need a Husky/Stihl Mid Size Mod...
Great Video!
Haha. Yup that how it goes. Next video will be using it taking down some tricky trees (up in a lift). I’m am working on an old 66cc pioneer chainsaw as well. Less modding and more getting it back into good working condition.
Ничего пока не понял но видео впечатляет.браво
Pretty cheap for all the mods, going to try it out. Thanks for making the video!
Glad it was useful!
Cleaning is faster with air nozzle.
Zajebisty jest ten gaznik! Kupilem miesiac temu ta pilarke i juz bede modyfikował ! :) Dzieki
Daj znać czy spalanie oraz moc się zmieniła
@@93Bubu93 jeszcze nie kupiłem gaźnika bo po wymianie prowadnicy i łańcucha na oregon 325 wchodzi w drewno jak w masło . Niespełna polowe wolniej od pilarki o nocy 3.5 km Echo japan.
Jak zmienię to dam znaka ale napewno da trochę kopa
I had to laugh about the sidetracking. It was sooo me.
Make sure when you install a side adjuster you crease the gears on the adjuster self before you covered it up And I recommend getting OEM MS250 chain adjuster!it fits right in....
OEM or aftermarket, same part number but aftermarket was a lot cheaper (may not last as long)
Nice job. I’m a new TH-camr too. I subbed.
Thanks for the sub
This is a great little video. Very well done. Very informative and entertaining enough that it kept my attention the entire time. Keep 'em coming.
Thanks! Hope to do more.
@@VincesDIYs bummer its featuring the worst saw Stihl makes.
@@Killinit33 it is a cheap homeowner saw. I picked it up used for about $50. Hard to beat that.
The best mod for a MS170 is buying an MS250
Right?! I'm wondering why I'm watching an upgrade of a MS170 😂
@@oceanaddict9251me too😂😂😂😂
A ms 311 is the upgrade to the 250. Dump a little more gas to it and tune on the highside and it cuts like a big boy saw.
@@Woodbutcher-c9j you don’t always need it, unless in your felling biggins. I drop 30in trees with my ms261 at work on a daily basis
Ms250 is the best lightweight saw stihl makes.
Thanks i only did the muffler mod and im really happy
Good to hear!
@@VincesDIYsthank just looked up to this video again and im still very happy i didnt do it on the plate because i didnt feel a change it just got louder
Still faster than a ms181
Nice job!
Thanks!
May I suggest when u want to clean your chainsaw: spraying all the surfaces w non-flammable spray brake cleaner, w red thin spray tube. Let sit a few minutes on an old plastic tarp, then spray off w an airgun nozzle from any size compressor. Take your time tilting the saw, dislodging any brake cleaner left in any nooks or crannies, blow off again w an airgun. I Used this cleaning technique successfully for the last 7 of 36 yrs of using chainsaws. I usually clean my chainsaws this way after 3 days of heavy chainsaw use. I usually clean the bar channel the same way, file the bar if sharp edges, air spin the bar geared wheel, lubricate wheel so it spins freely and effortlessly. I usually spray all outside of bar, inside chain cover where oil and wood debris get gummed up, w silicone...seems it helps a little bit, so gunk sticks a bit less. I was actually thinking of using the new Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic spray wax I have been using detailing the family cars (any ceramic or detail spray brand is fine) on the chain cover, inside/outside...maybe plastic exterior pieces that attract grunge too. The ceramic spray wax requires one small spritz on any single surface, quite economical/efficient use of much less time vs non-ceramic spray wax. Seems ceramic spray wax has excellent, long lasting hydrophobic (water shedding, water sheets off surfaces faster and longer), might....be worth a try to avoid grunge sticking to plastic surfaces a lot less? Who knows, but worth a few minutes to try it out, vs coating surfaces w silicone that rarely keeps grunge off for more than 1-2 weeks?
Nice. Will give it a try next time. Thanks!
I thought about doing the same thing with Meguires hybrid spray ceramic wax inside my mower deck! Couldn't hurt.
George Martin, if u r not joking.... not on inside...of the mower deck...I tried many diff coatings, epoxy paints, silicone, etc....under mower deck any coating gets sandblasted by mower debris in several weeks. Topside of deck, bagger Shute, tractor hoods, engine non-hot covers...a ceramic wax might work. I do wanna try it on inside and outside of broadcast fertilizer hopper...lime, fertilizer, grass seed....never seem to rinse off completely...nice thing about these new hybrid sprays is they are 1-2 spritzers, rub in, buff off in a few minutes on anything u need a slick surface on. Previous waxes were not easy to apply, never bothered to experiment w them
@@MrWkendwarrior No, I wasn't joking. But now that you mention it, it makes sense about getting sandblasted out. You are right about the ease of ceramics, that's the only reason I considered trying it. By the way, I use that Mequires on my windshield. It's like RainX from hell! I barely even have to use my wipers, and in the summer when I crank the AC and get condensation on the bottom of the windshield, it just blows off at around 50 mph! Thanks for the reply!
Thumb, top handle, get it wrapped around underneath the handle !!!
Thanks! 2nd person who mentioned it. I never noticed it before.
I am doing the felling dogs & side adjuster mods (once the parts arrive), the plastic dogs are juat crap and sometimes you juat need some bite, and the standard adjuster jams up with crap all the time.
I removed the spark arrerstor & opened up the muffler with a dremel (area you used the stepped bit on).
Nice! Those simple changes make it a nicer saw to work with
Best upgrade is getting a husky
Good homeowner DIY Tips, Thx! Spraying WD40 and an air gun cleans a dirty saw in no time, and the felling dogs, bumper spikes can be used while cutting thru your pcs, a simple stab and rotating while you cut, repeat, might not be that helpful on such a small saw, definitely a clean spark arrestor screen makes a huge saw performance improvement,so regularly overlooked.
Thanks for the tips as well!
Best way to modify a chainsaw is to not buy a little tikes saw and make sure it's a husqvarna.
Haha
I'll drink to that.I would assume that
They needed a gas operated apparatus for cutting.
Best place for Husqvarna is the scrap metal pile.
@Michael Fresh , I've got Stihl and never had a problem with it. I've had Husqvarna and other Husqvarna brand related products and they've all been shit. I've blown the heads on two Husqvarna chainsaws and stripped the bores on another two Husqvarna chainsaws. With my Stihl chainsaws I've never had any problems. With regards to the chainbar oil, I've turned mine up a little but never had an issue with oil coming out in the wrong place.
Touch of grease on the inner clutch bearing wouldn’t go a miss!! Lol. Open all our saws exhaust wise. All are mtronic stihls from ms 241-ms 661. 5 years, awsome use, and never miss a beat. Only use stihl products including bars, chain sets and ultra oil. Bar oil is Oregon as stihl bar oil is &&&&!. Great videos and thanks for your time👍👍
Thanks for the tip!
Cheeky comment warning. Or you could sell your MS170 like I did and buy and MS261.
Instead, I bought a late 80’s Craftsman 3.3 (Poulan 3300) for $40 that will spank a ms261 (maybe ;) Coming in a future video.
Yea. 170s are garbage in production tree work. A boss i didnt care much for bought on one time & I got so disgusted with it I chucked it in the chipper. That beast Hurricane barely felt that heap of plastic going through it... that day was a win for the good guys!
261, no no 271 good sir
@@VincesDIYs I still use my dad's Poo-lan. It's 24 years old with a 24" bar. Needs work now, it won't idle lol. She still gets used every year though, probably cut 200+ cords.
@@matthewharvey8755 probably just needs a carb kit and will run for another 20 years.
Nice upgrades. At work we have 6 stihl ms200t that already have the upgrades you added but they are stock on the ms200T like the side tention and the teeth spike grip plus full chisel chain. And i think the cutting bar is about the same... stihl is a very good brand and we have many other tools :-)
Thanks! Would love to have an Ms200t sometime but kind of hard to rationalize for a homeowner....
Don't know if I like filing the groove for the timing advance and could you go up a tooth on the rim gear and keep the longer bar.
Just posted a video taking down some trees and used this saw extensively - th-cam.com/video/0b8k984cVOY/w-d-xo.html
This is interesting. I was looking as my MS170 stopped working the other day. I've taken the carb apart to clean it. A new spark plug as the old one was there since new, about four years old. It still didn't start. I've checked the spark against the head and it seems intermittent, so maybe a new part required. But despite that, I found this video useful. I already have a shorter bar on mine (14"), as purchased, so don't think a short one will make that much difference. The exhaust mod might though.
@@paulbradford8240 Glad it was useful!
@@VincesDIYs 140 PSI GOOD COMPRESION 372 XP ?
@@Sensei948 I’m not an expert but 140psi is generally fine.
@@paulbradford8240 ⁰
Clean saws perform better too. I love your ideas and will try.
Glad you enjoyed!