I am a factory trained Stihl mechanic and the MS170 is a fantastic saw for the home owner, for storm cleanup, small trees and cutting branches. Yesterday I had a not running 170, manufactured in Aug/2004, come in with aftermarket (Chinese) parts. I performed a complete engine check, which includes pressure/vacuum test of the case. After verifying the engine was sealed and mechanically sound i replaced the after market parts with factory parts, including the carb. The saw fired on the third pull and is cutting great. The parts and labor for the repair was $93.00 I believe your cutting performance increase is the result of the bar & chain swap you performed with the shorter bar length being negligible. The stock bar & chain for the 170 is .043 gauge 3/8" Picco (aka LP) semi-chisel chain 61PMM3. You installed a .050 gauge 3/8" Picco full chisel chain 63PS. The larger .050 gauge permits a larger cutter while maintaining the same chain pitch. The .050 gauge 3/8" Picco is my recommended upgrade to the 170 and is the stock bar & chain for the top handle saws and the MS 211.
Upgrading the bar and chain made the biggest difference along with opening the muffler. I used the smaller bar as I have bigger saws for larger wood. Reality is that can pull a 14" or 16" chain if it was someones only saw.
After this video I purchased a MS 170. This was last year and I have to say this chainsaw is really great one of my favorites because lightweight. I got also a 026 and 044.
I'm a little late to the party, but thank you for making this video. I did the tensioner and bucking spike upgrade to my saw. It was very simple and greatly improved the utility of the saw. It made an already good saw a great saw for me.
a little trick, when you tighten the chain, always rest the bar nose on something, or pull it up with your hand. it'll keep your chain tight. if you don't it'll often get loose on the first cut.
My dad gave me a Ms 170 with a 16 inch bar a couple years ago I used it every day to cut everything from a branch to making 2*2 and even 12*12 it's the only thing I could afford but now I just bought a Ms250 which is such a great improvement but when I get a 18 inch bar for it I'm going to make a 10 high by 15 wide and 45 long truck ramp for my future truck but I love the videos
You sure went the hard way to connect throttle linkage. All you have to do is work your throttle up then come in underneath with hooked end of linkage: then slightly bend the end to slip in the hole. Works good at full throttle. I really like this carburetor.
@@VincesDIYsI did take linkage off. I had the carb slipped up a bit and with pliers bent the hooked end linkage to meet throttle accuator of carburetor. 100% throttle function.
I can only say two things. If you are setting your depth gauges like they say. Try taking two more passes off of them. Your chain will bite way more.Then just let you bar rest on the log rather then try to push through it. But otherwise love the video and your attention to details and cleaning your saw. Oh yeah I liked and you know the rest
Hey, Vince, me again. When I saw this video I understood about most of the mods already and was only envying that Yost vice. A couple weeks ago a friend asked me to come up with a used saw for use around the home and said they'd been looking at the 170. Turns out another friend (arborist) had given me a 180C a while back and I was saving it for myself but hadn't really had a chance to inspect fully, restore and get it going. I decided, since I learned these two were so similar, that I'd fix this one up for them. I figured out why someone had given my buddy this saw for free. It had overheated and blown out the clutch drum bearing as well as melting some of the plastic parts a little. (I suspect someone ran it with the brake on.) Now that I've worked on it and tuned it as much as possible (fixed jets OEM carb) I realize the clutch springs were weakened. This must have been due to the overheat event. That's why I can only get the chain to stop running if I turn the idle way down, plus the clutch engage speed is much lower than the 4100 spec. I've got a new set of OEM springs on order and I'm expecting now I'll be able to get the correct idle and clutch engagement speeds out of it. The compression of this saw is 175, much higher than most other used saws of this class that I've seen advertised and the piston, rings and cylinder are immaculate, so I'm expecting to get $175 for it. It does have the Easy2Start and toolless chain adjuster, so it's got all the bells and whistles available on a stock saw. Now I've got it mostly restored and cutting really well I almost hate to part with it. This thing starts, idles, throttles up, runs WOT really well and cuts like a beast! I like all the extra's on this saw like the oil and fuel level viewing windows, toolless chain adjust (which also makes it quicker and easier to remove the clutch cover for cleaning), Easy2Start, quick removal toolless top cover (which makes it dead easy to clean the air filter often). This thing was really well designed and should please any knowledgeable user.
Good video! I own a wood lot and have three Stihl chainsaws that I cut firewood with. My largest is an 18-inch 029 Farm Boss (21 yrs old and never been to a shop) and the 170 which I used for the first time last month. The 170 seems half the weight of the 029 and it saves me the fatigue of the 029. Its so nimble to use and ideal for small trees, branches and bucking. It's like comparing a revolver to a rifle. I have always used a 45:1 fuel ratio in all of my saws which seems to work well.
I have a 029 FB that has cut a a lot of firewood over 22 years. And I also have the ms 170- great little saw. As a three years ago, I added a 461 use that almost exclusively.
I have this little saw for cleaning up storm damaged trees and keeping limbs trimmed , mine is an older model 170 as my muffler is pretty hollow to begin with and I have not babied it either, I finally decided to clean it up- tune up because the thing just keeps running without a hitch ...I may take the 16inch bar off and put on a 14 with a more aggressive chain...the stihl oil gums up the screen in the muffler so I switched to red armor oil mix and it burns cleaner, also the stihl file sharpener is probably the best out there
Proper mentenence and clean tools regulary.. i just love when i see people taking care of their tools..no matter what they are using them for.. If you take care of your tools they will keep serving you for a life time. Nice work with those upgrades.. Cheers.
Good job. My 170 is my limbing saw. I run a 12" bar, 3/8 pitch. I recently gave it a new coil and new carb. A new plug and air filter too. Runs great and I enjoy its gutsy but light weight style. easy to work on. I have a 460 husqvarna with a 28" Notch bar, that I run a skip tooth full chisel chain on. With the two of them, I can take down or climb nearly any tree I am likely to encounter. the 170 hangs from my belt/harness when I climb. Great saw. Good job on the video. George.
i hate the weight of husqvarna saws this saw is the ultimate in weight can be used one handed if the other hand is needed in a quick pinch. stay safe up there always 3 points of contact and you will never fall.
Man, best & most detailed modification video I’ve seen on this model. Going to try 3 or 4 of your suggestions. Enjoyed the cutting demonstration too 👍🪵😎
I did all this except the flywheel mod on a MS180. However realised that a full chisel ( 63PS) was a bit beyond its capability. It pulls the rpm at full throttle the bottom end of its torque range in the cut. Things improved a lot when I used a semi chisel 63 PM. But then found there was some unutilised power, so I tried full chisel with bumper link the PS3 and found it to be the best
I liked the 170 as is, but the micro chains burned out so quickly. Swapped out with a 14” bar and new sprocket, got the .050 chisel on there now. And I did the tensioner between the studs instead of behind the bar, for convenience sake. It was a very easy swap. Interesting thing there is, the saw is set up for the tensioner between the studs, why stihl doesn’t just put that on there stock I do not know. Also threw the metal spikes on there, cause I like having the extra leverage. And I tell you what, it’s a completely different saw. It’s lighter, faster, and has better balance in the hand. Used stihl parts for everything cause I’m a purist and I got mad stacks!! Just kidding, I got no money, but I am a purist. Use genuine stihl parts for best performance. Thanks for the video guy, fun to watch the mechanical process.
Hi from Don, see all your added hp improvements to MS 180C Good job, 👍 The saw will handle 12-14-16-18" bars Now try this what I did Add 20" bar too it: I did it and it handle 20" bar and chain , the only difference is cutting speed is slower but if you want cut that log that's 19" round the saw get it done I did it it and all is fine : Note: there is couple mods to this: Make sure oil holes work or you might have drill bar for this oiling flow,make sure it bolts up perfectly , and you may have to change clutch drum too or stay with .043 3/8p Note: drive links will increase due to the length Amazon does sell 20" bars and chains just order correct one
Well done. Good skills. One suggestion. When drilling anything at risk of flying shavings I make sure the shop vac is catching them. I even converted an old spring arm desk lamp as a third hand to hold things like the vac hose in place when needed. Have a better new year.
I had the same problem when I put a Stihl carb on my Farmertec ms 360. The throttle rod would not clear the big area that surrounds the adjustment screws on all Stihl carbs. Since my Farmertec carb was identical to my Stihl carb - both being Zama C3A carbs, I decided to use my original carb until I can get a Stihl throttle rod for my ms 360. I will also have to order a new grommet for the carb adjusters, since the holes are smaller in the one I have on my 360. I could drill out the holes but would rather have the correct grommet.
@@VincesDIYs yes, pretty easy - the Farmertec carb is squirrelly. I cannot get it to tune properly. I had the same problem on my MS 460. I switched it and it runs a lot better, now. I am not the only one who has had problems with Chinese carbs. They work but not as good as oem carbs, throttle rods, throttles and master control levers. I have also usually switched out these parts, too. I am a stihl man and I like my saws, whether Farmertec or Stihl, to crank and run the same way. When they don’t I replace parts until they do. My 460 beat me to death for a while but not anymore, but it has quite a few oem parts.
Finally tryed the 14" bar with full chisel chain, modified muffler and adjustable carb! Do it if your thinking about it! Damn things a little beast now!. No need for advanced timing in my opnion.
I never realized how much better husqvarna is than stihl until I saw you take apart yours. I have a 440 and it's just built so much better. Tears threw huge 20inch diameter oak (wider than the saw is long) I have on my property like nothing. Much higher ram's, and the throttle is much more responsive.
Your husqvarna 440 is roughly 360 bucks and 2.5 hp. The stihl MS170 is 200 bucks and 1.7 hp in factory configuration. The equivalent stihl saw to your husqvarna is probably the Stihl MS251 Wood Boss. It cost 380 Bucks and makes 3hp.
Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
The MS170 is a gas powered saw, which is the subject of this video. You might want to see if there is a California compliant sight that you can post on.
I put a set of steel bucking spikes on my ms 171, too. It did not come with any. I had bought a set for an M180 that I gave to my daughter. One went on my MS 170 and the other one went on my MS 171. I had to go to my local Stihl dealer and get two 5M D screws. I used two 16MM length screws on the MS 170 but I had to shorten the screws for the MS171 to about 3/4” for the top screw and about 7/8” for the bottom screw. I cut them off with my Dremel with a cutoff wheel. I put Lock tite on them and screwed them in with my impact, after hand starting them with my 27Torx Tee wrench. You do not want to bottom out in the bottom hole and allow the bolt to contact the muffler in the top hole.
@@VincesDIYs I just got them longer and cut them to fit. I don’t know the metric system. My dial mic is in inches, as are most of my other tools. I did not measure them after I cut them off. Just eyeballed them. Anything short of hitting the muffler or bottoming out in the bottom hole is fine.
I checked my relatively new Ms 170 on the tach. I was appalled - it read 14,500 and change. I will not run a saw this fast. So I bought an adjustable carb for my 170, but it would not fit, so I decided to put my original carb back on. Two things I noticed were the plugs in the jet holes had what appeared to be minute Torx bit sockets in them. I worked under two assumptions - the manufacturer (Zama) had to have a mechanical means to install these plugs and any plug would have to be shaped like a normal jet in order to disperse the fuel into the carb in an atomized fashion. I decided to see if I had a small screwdriver that would fit that ultra small socket, so I got out my jewelers screwdriver set and found a slot blade that fit this small socket. I then turned the H jet plug out 1/4 turn, just like I would do to any H jet where the saw was to lean. I then put the 170 back together, no easy task. I then cranked it up and let it warm up for five minutes. Everything worked normally. After five minutes I put my inductive tach on it. It read 13,050, a little high but a lot better than 14,500. I may richen it up a smidge, later, because I like 12,600-12,800 for most saws. Anytime someone tells you the jets on an ms 170 cannot be adjusted - they are wrong, they can, but it is rather difficult. You must remove the air box and pull the carb out a bit and have a small screwdriver to adjust the plugs (jets).
Great video! The only thing I can think to add might be air intake mod to increase volume. Would you kindly give the make and model of your new bench vice? Thanks!
Just curious about the muffler mod. I know it produces a good deal more power but it was my understanding that 2 stroke engines were really finicky about back pressure. If there's not enough the engine has a good chance of over revving and burning itself out or blowing up in extreme cases. Since the saw is only meant for light duty anyway for myself I would rather take a bit more time and not risk over working the engine. That being said i think all your other mods for making the saw work more efficiently and improving the user experience are great! And I have ordered the new chain tensioner and a new chain already for my saw.
Hi Seth, Your chainsaw should not over rev as generally you are full throttle when in wood. Max rpms can also be set when tuning. Tuning 2-strokes with the muffler/pipe is more of an art with dirt bikes etc but they use a special pipe, not muffler like chainsaws. Some reading here on the topic - forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100898.0
Yeah, those really are great mods. I'd like to do the muffler mod, bar and chain mod, spike mod and the side chain adjust, after the warranty is done. Pretty cool Vince, appreciate the work you put into this.
I got two bucking spikes to me not to set a damn bearing for my sprocket bearing two studs To Nuts The Sidewinder tensioner and I can't remember what else but all for $9 free shipping
Great video and info!! How is that plastic chain tensioner held up? What about the other parts? How have they held up? Would you do anything different? Thank you.
Everything is still working fine! If I did it again I would not mess with the timing as it made minimal difference. And if it was my only saw, I would stay with a 16” bar.
for cleaning your saw i suggest a hook and pick set i use one for my saw and its great for all the little oiler ports and creveses with a cuopon you can get one at harbor freight for 99 cents but other wise about five dollars.
Great info, thank you. Do you know of a kit to also get rid of the tool less chain adjuster that came on my MS180? It’s awful. I think it would need a new cover, the side adjuster you’ve shown, and then 1 more stud to add for the bar mount. Thank you.
I got one just like it I just finished porting stock bar and chain running 110 Sunco and full synthetic klotz oil fastest 170 I ever seen I use it for tree work mostly
I am doing the felling dogs & side adjuster mods (once the parts arrive), the plastic dogs are juat crap and sometimes you juat need some bite, and the standard adjuster jams up with crap all the time. I removed the spark arrerstor & opened up the muffler with a dremel (area you used the stepped bit on).
Another mod you can do that really made mine sing even more was changing to the optional 1/4p sprocket and running a 12” 1/4p chain which has a narrower kerf.
@Food Afield Podcast narrow kerf means the drivers/cutting teeth have less surface area to drive through which means more torque or pounds of force per cutting surface area. Think of it this way, if I gave you a 1/8” metal wire and asked you to push it into the dirt you wouldn’t have much trouble but if I ask you to do the same with a 3” round metal rod you’d need a tool to help you exert more force on the object to push it into the dirt. Since you’re working with a small engine with limited displacement you can get more performance by reducing the load placed on the engine. Normally to get more torque you need raw displacement. You can always get more horsepower out of it for when it tops out and gets going but under a lot of load it will struggle. Similar principle to reducing the weight or aerodynamic drag on a race car but in this case it’s the load being placed on the cutting teeth by narrowing them. If you ever go to a Stihl dealer look at the two chains next to each other.
Your video is good I like the upgrades you did but I myself will never own another Stihl chainsaw from day one it was hard to start I took it back to the dealer to see if it needed some adjustments they took it in the back and came back out a few minutes later and said everything was good the other issue I had was about 2 years after I bought it I developed some issues with my elbows and now I can't start it at all because I lost a little grip in my hands which because it pulls so hard I can't hold the handle on the starting rope even my son that works as a small engine repair shop says mine pulls way to hard compared to other saws he's worked on some other people I've talked to that own Stihl chainsaws say the same thing that they are just to hard to pull and got rid of them and bought a different brand I have another saw that I have no problem at all starting now if you can tell me something that can be done for this issue to fix it I'll keep it but I don't think anything can be done other than putting a electric starter on it and we both know that can't be done but anyway thanks for a great video you do a great job explaining things
Yes, if you only have one chainsaw, I would get a larger one. This was more for fun to see if I could make it better. I have larger saws for larger work :)
Yes exactly. I was wondering why it's not required/recommended, that the sprocket be upgraded too when going to a thicker gauge setup? I know that when I put the Baily's 1/4" .043 carving bar setup on my MS210, it came with a two piece rim sprocket and drum. This was changing from the standard 3/8" .050 single piece drum sprocket and 16inch bar setup.
Good little video. I have the 180 with the limp wrist pull. (Is there a fix or replacement for that?) Who ever thought up that type of pull start should be locked up. Changed the carb out on the 180 that seemed to be missing the filter intake housing gasket and the fuel line was twisted about 180 degrees. Didn't realize the non-adjustable carb or that I could have gotten and adjustable one. Thing hasn't run in years and was a freebee. It's in really good shape. I live at 3k' and the engine had an oscillating bog, but if I take the intake housing off and put my thumb about half way over the intake hole, it runs pretty good. I did upgrade form a Poulan P3816 that really was a good saw to a MS250? Not a bad saw, but it usually takes a few years and 1000's of cuts to tell if you really bought a good saw. I'll see if I can with the help of my foreign engineering degree, try to rich'n it up and see if that keeps it running. I'm still gonna try to salvage my Poulan, but the carbs they've come out with never seem to have the right linkage. I have to salvage the old linkage and install it on the new carb. PITA to do, but it worked last time.
I learned a few things here, Thank you for a well done video. I am surprised that you did'nt mention the Oregon fast sharpening chain and blade setup using a half moon grindstone setup on the blade tip. I got one off Amazon and will only use this type now. Amazing time saver.
Try it with a 1123 640 2005 chain sprocket 6T of a 023. With the muffler and carb mod a 6T sprocket will only improve bit a bit more, especially with a full chisel chain
Hey, Vince! Thanks for your comprehensive video. I've done all the same mods to my 170. However, I'm struggling to get the saw to start with the master control lever in the normal run position. I need to keep the trigger pressed in, or put the lever on high idle. Yours seems to start no problem. I used and OEM Walbro W-215. Any ideas? Thanks. Mike
Have you checked your idle screw? If not then idle screw, you low jet screw may be off. Try turn it out a 1/4 turn at a time and see if that makes a difference.
@@markatkinson9963 Stihl ms194. We recently bought forest from my wifes parents, I might do something there myself also, so I went with the light weight one (trees there are small enough for that saw).
@@jannek5757 cool. That is a tree top top handle saw if I recall? I just bought a 180 myself. So far it's been a good little saw cleaning up branches around the house. Good luck to yours!
@@markatkinson9963 Thanks and same to you! It is a regular saw but piston/engine direction is horizontal. I have cut a few medium size trees (about same as in video) from my yard and only done some tests in real forest. Good enough. If I need more speed and power in future, then I think I will upgrade to bigger Stihl/Husqvarna.
Nice video and great ideas for my ms170. Been leaking oil since the day I bought it though, finally replaced the oil line and seemed to stop. Can you link that vise you’re using, or drop the name/brand? Snap-on vises are great, but not worth 1000$ IMO, would rather buy another chainsaw 😂
Labas! Galiu pasakyti kad rimtas geras pjuklas 17_18. Karburatorius turi paprasta sistema! Variklis tvirtai su rinktas! Galingumo pa kanka stumoklis turi du ziedus! Naujos laidos karburatoriu ne vertinu! Aciu kad pasidalinote! 😉👍👍👍
one of the very few videos with excellent accurate information. I would question why take the most basic low power model and modify the bar,chain,adjuster,muffler,carburettor and ignition timing rather than buy a higher spec model in the first place that would also have a higher chain speed, lower vibration levels, better power to weight ratio and be more durable.
I bought this 2nd hand for $50. With the part I still have less than $80-$90 into it. But i do have bigger saws for larger wood. This is now a nice limbing saw or a saw for my 14 year old son to use.
No replacement for displacement and rpm. But ya I agree why mod such a basic tiny saw just get a bigger one. And a bucking bar lol never heard the dogs called that.
@@VincesDIYs I didn’t see this part in the video but how did you mount the aftermarket bumper guard? I see on the saw there’s one threaded hole by the plastic bumper but where did you screw in the lower bolt?
Not sure that little saw is worth all those upgrades. I have the 360, the 261 and the 170. For the little trimming of branches I do with it it’s fine. Good info though!
@@93Bubu93 jeszcze nie kupiłem gaźnika bo po wymianie prowadnicy i łańcucha na oregon 325 wchodzi w drewno jak w masło . Niespełna polowe wolniej od pilarki o nocy 3.5 km Echo japan. Jak zmienię to dam znaka ale napewno da trochę kopa
I absolutely loved this content.. Just when you think you have found all the good chainsaw channels, i see this video... Honestly, great editing great music, amazing tips, and yeah, nice result.. Im wondering, do you think porting it would make any better performance? I have inherited my dads old 017. Been having alot of fun trying to fix it, but just when i thought this would be it, it still wouldn't start.. after being disapointed for a few days and having a sore shoulder, ive ordered some new parts and ill keep trying.
Wow, thanks for the kind comments! Not sure about the porting. Probably would make a difference but it is a bit more tricky. Start with basic’s, spark and fuel. I would say 90% of small engine starting problems are carb issues. All the best with your 017
Hi Guly, 017 doesn't have a large cc capacity, so even if you port it successfully, the benefit probably isn't worth it. Use it to familiarize yourself with 2 stroke engines, and try porting once you graduate onto bigger saws. Stay safe, always wear protection, and God Bless!
I got hand noticeably more torque at idle/revving and in cutting from my 170 by drilling out the muffler and opening up the exhaust outflow from the muffler with a common screwdriver.
Don't listen to this guy. Theres enough back pressure just going through a small turn up & out. Ported REALLY PORTED chainsaws have the least amount resistance in any flow area. Gut those mufflers people. & get rid of that God damn screen! Unless of course you live in California. Nah, still remove the screen.,
Well done! The first time I watched your video I didn't have a chain saw. Now I have a 170 cbe, a low compression start. I am a disabled veteran and now lifting small amounts of weight is very hard for me. I am most curious as to how much lighter your saw is with the before and after. Thank you for replying to me.
Hey buddy thank you for all you put aside for our country ... check out ironhourse or buckin Billy Ray they have a wealth of knowledge they share on here ... stay safe frosty and free brother and may God bless you and yours
I'm used to tuning 2 stroke bikes so I would think the lean jet would give a better top power but just learning now that on chainsaws, richer and slight off tune is better. Maybe it's for the piston's life and temperature? Any idea why is it tuned this way?
I agree. I have an 044 thats about 20 years old and the only thing it needs sometimes is a carb tune. I also have the 170 for around the house doing little trees and limbs. Runs great and fast for a little saw
Would be nice to see if the new bar is wearing well, some report say it wears unevenly and needs grinding to get it true. I would stay with the better brands.
Haha. Yup that how it goes. Next video will be using it taking down some tricky trees (up in a lift). I’m am working on an old 66cc pioneer chainsaw as well. Less modding and more getting it back into good working condition.
Great work, I just bought an MS170 to go with my old MS240, nice handy saw, I got the new 'dogs' from aliexpress, I might get the side adjuster next, not going to bother anything else, it's ok for me for occasional farm use, just wondering can you get a 'chain catcher' for this MS170?
@@VincesDIYs I can't find the extra self tapping screw for the side tensioner on aliexpress, pity they didn't just include it with the tensioner, I might have to buy another spilke/dogs just to get the extra screw for it!!
I changed the bar and chain on my 170 few year back. Iv used it up trees limbing when my top Handel was playing up. Nice wee back up saw in case of emergencies👍🏻
by making the modification of the shorter bar and the chain you recommend, is the exhaust open, do you think that the carburetor should be changed? Without carburetor, doesn't it turn out too thin?
@@VincesDIYs Thanks for the reply. May I also ask if you know a better bar than the one fitted by you? what could be a really good bar for this modified saw? honestly I have some timpro to use Chinese bar and chain.
Carburettor modification looks like a 'pain in the keyster'! I wouldn't touch the timing; make sure you back out your high speed carby screw a touch if you advance the timing. Overall a job well done. Thanks for posting this video.
@@VincesDIYs oo ok, thanks for the reply man i dont mind the weight of the extra bar length, i think id rather have the reach over the saved weight, n i even have a bad back
@Michael Fresh , I've got Stihl and never had a problem with it. I've had Husqvarna and other Husqvarna brand related products and they've all been shit. I've blown the heads on two Husqvarna chainsaws and stripped the bores on another two Husqvarna chainsaws. With my Stihl chainsaws I've never had any problems. With regards to the chainbar oil, I've turned mine up a little but never had an issue with oil coming out in the wrong place.
A hope you could help me with my questions .... I have two MS170 ---almost new --- Last time I used them the teeth on the chain almost disappeared !!!---cheap one!! --- I am going to replace with two new 18 inches chain and blades (Holzfforma ) from China .. or should be better if they are16 inches ? By the way how do you measure a blade ... from the front to the back or front to the binging of the slot ? Both chain saw have a ZAMA Carburetors could they be changed with a WABRO Carburetors if trouble arise ? Thank you
I would keep the carbs you have and just get a carb rebuild kit if you have issues with them. Generally, the actual bar length is about 1" shorter than what the bar is listed as. I would not get a 18" bar for this saw unless it is the only saw you have and you need to cut 18" + wood. Hope this helps!
Well i ordered an adjustable carb lets hope it works well on the saw.
Hope it works out!
It finnaly arrived, i put it and it runs like a charm. Great video Vince!
@@Vipex_134 glad it was helpful!
I am a factory trained Stihl mechanic and the MS170 is a fantastic saw for the home owner, for storm cleanup, small trees and cutting branches. Yesterday I had a not running 170, manufactured in Aug/2004, come in with aftermarket (Chinese) parts. I performed a complete engine check, which includes pressure/vacuum test of the case. After verifying the engine was sealed and mechanically sound i replaced the after market parts with factory parts, including the carb. The saw fired on the third pull and is cutting great. The parts and labor for the repair was $93.00
I believe your cutting performance increase is the result of the bar & chain swap you performed with the shorter bar length being negligible. The stock bar & chain for the 170 is .043 gauge 3/8" Picco (aka LP) semi-chisel chain 61PMM3. You installed a .050 gauge 3/8" Picco full chisel chain 63PS. The larger .050 gauge permits a larger cutter while maintaining the same chain pitch. The .050 gauge 3/8" Picco is my recommended upgrade to the 170 and is the stock bar & chain for the top handle saws and the MS 211.
Upgrading the bar and chain made the biggest difference along with opening the muffler. I used the smaller bar as I have bigger saws for larger wood. Reality is that can pull a 14" or 16" chain if it was someones only saw.
Just bought a 170 about 3 months ago in shop three times already
@@dennisbedford6314 what have the issues been?
That’s not good. I have not had any issues with this one.
Thanks have a 5020 as well. It’s really a different saw but I like it. Especially for the price.
“It aint got no gas innit” - A wise man
After this video I purchased a MS 170. This was last year and I have to say this chainsaw is really great one of my favorites because lightweight. I got also a 026 and 044.
Nice. I’d love to get an 026 and 044. Maybe someday :)
Of all the saws I have my 170 is probably my favourite. Power to weight ratio is brilliant. It's a gutsy little saw
I used my MS290 farm boss for everthing then relized smaller is better for doing limbing, so bought an MS170 for that
Agreed they are an excellent saw..
Me: “gonna knock out this little 30 min project, just gonna clean of my workbench”
Me 6 hours later: “ what was it I came in here to do?”
I really appreciate you not editing out the LEARNING CURVE MOMENTS those are the most educating parts
Yup, learn most from mistakes :)
I'm a little late to the party, but thank you for making this video. I did the tensioner and bucking spike upgrade to my saw. It was very simple and greatly improved the utility of the saw. It made an already good saw a great saw for me.
Nice! Glad it was useful.
I'm extra late but my son purchased one for a side job an I was impressed. Been I. Tree work 20+ for the price can't wait to do these lil mods! Thanx
a little trick, when you tighten the chain, always rest the bar nose on something, or pull it up with your hand. it'll keep your chain tight. if you don't it'll often get loose on the first cut.
Great tip, Thanks!
Rolling the chain on the bar manually. And tightening 2x does well for me. I use to hole the bar up w a screw driver if it had a hole. But it's a pain
My dad gave me a Ms 170 with a 16 inch bar a couple years ago I used it every day to cut everything from a branch to making 2*2 and even 12*12 it's the only thing I could afford but now I just bought a Ms250 which is such a great improvement but when I get a 18 inch bar for it I'm going to make a 10 high by 15 wide and 45 long truck ramp for my future truck but I love the videos
Cool Video.
Just one Tip:
You mentioned torx T25.
The proper size is T27. On the long run much better for your screws.
Good to know - Thanks!
Finally someone as ocd about clean equipment as me great video tyvm..
Glad you enjoyed!
You sure went the hard way to connect throttle linkage. All you have to do is work your throttle up then come in underneath with hooked end of linkage: then slightly bend the end to slip in the hole. Works good at full throttle. I really like this carburetor.
I had no problem connecting it but when it was connected it only gave 0-75% throttle.
@@VincesDIYsI did take linkage off. I had the carb slipped up a bit and with pliers bent the hooked end linkage to meet throttle accuator of carburetor. 100% throttle function.
@@michaelthomas7178 nice. I’ll have to try again next time.
I can only say two things. If you are setting your depth gauges like they say. Try taking two more passes off of them. Your chain will bite way more.Then just let you bar rest on the log rather then try to push through it. But otherwise love the video and your attention to details and cleaning your saw. Oh yeah I liked and you know the rest
Thanks!
Hey, Vince, me again. When I saw this video I understood about most of the mods already and was only envying that Yost vice.
A couple weeks ago a friend asked me to come up with a used saw for use around the home and said they'd been looking at the 170. Turns out another friend (arborist) had given me a 180C a while back and I was saving it for myself but hadn't really had a chance to inspect fully, restore and get it going. I decided, since I learned these two were so similar, that I'd fix this one up for them.
I figured out why someone had given my buddy this saw for free. It had overheated and blown out the clutch drum bearing as well as melting some of the plastic parts a little. (I suspect someone ran it with the brake on.) Now that I've worked on it and tuned it as much as possible (fixed jets OEM carb) I realize the clutch springs were weakened. This must have been due to the overheat event. That's why I can only get the chain to stop running if I turn the idle way down, plus the clutch engage speed is much lower than the 4100 spec. I've got a new set of OEM springs on order and I'm expecting now I'll be able to get the correct idle and clutch engagement speeds out of it.
The compression of this saw is 175, much higher than most other used saws of this class that I've seen advertised and the piston, rings and cylinder are immaculate, so I'm expecting to get $175 for it. It does have the Easy2Start and toolless chain adjuster, so it's got all the bells and whistles available on a stock saw.
Now I've got it mostly restored and cutting really well I almost hate to part with it. This thing starts, idles, throttles up, runs WOT really well and cuts like a beast! I like all the extra's on this saw like the oil and fuel level viewing windows, toolless chain adjust (which also makes it quicker and easier to remove the clutch cover for cleaning), Easy2Start, quick removal toolless top cover (which makes it dead easy to clean the air filter often). This thing was really well designed and should please any knowledgeable user.
Thanks for sharing. Looks like a 180 is a nice upgrade to a 170
Good video! I own a wood lot and have three Stihl chainsaws that I cut firewood with. My largest is an 18-inch 029 Farm Boss (21 yrs old and never been to a shop) and the 170 which I used for the first time last month. The 170 seems half the weight of the 029 and it saves me the fatigue of the 029. Its so nimble to use and ideal for small trees, branches and bucking. It's like comparing a revolver to a rifle. I have always used a 45:1 fuel ratio in all of my saws which seems to work well.
Glad you liked the video! Yes, the 170 is definitely nicer for the small stuff.
I have a 029 FB that has cut a a lot of firewood over 22 years. And I also have the ms 170- great little saw. As a three years ago, I added a 461 use that almost exclusively.
I have this little saw for cleaning up storm damaged trees and keeping limbs trimmed , mine is an older model 170 as my muffler is pretty hollow to begin with and I have not babied it either, I finally decided to clean it up- tune up because the thing just keeps running without a hitch ...I may take the 16inch bar off and put on a 14 with a more aggressive chain...the stihl oil gums up the screen in the muffler so I switched to red armor oil mix and it burns cleaner, also the stihl file sharpener is probably the best out there
Proper mentenence and clean tools regulary.. i just love when i see people taking care of their tools..no matter what they are using them for.. If you take care of your tools they will keep serving you for a life time. Nice work with those upgrades.. Cheers.
Thanks!
Good job. My 170 is my limbing saw. I run a 12" bar, 3/8 pitch. I recently gave it a new coil and new carb. A new plug and air filter too. Runs great and I enjoy its gutsy but light weight style. easy to work on. I have a 460 husqvarna with a 28" Notch bar, that I run a skip tooth full chisel chain on. With the two of them, I can take down or climb nearly any tree I am likely to encounter. the 170 hangs from my belt/harness when I climb. Great saw. Good job on the video. George.
i hate the weight of husqvarna saws this saw is the ultimate in weight can be used one handed if the other hand is needed in a quick pinch. stay safe up there always 3 points of contact and you will never fall.
@@oldschoolfoil2365 right on
Thank you about the video and greetings from Finland. Just placed my order of side tensioner and spikes.
You are welcome! Glad I could help
Man, best & most detailed modification video I’ve seen on this model. Going to try 3 or 4 of your suggestions. Enjoyed the cutting demonstration too 👍🪵😎
Glad it was helpful!
I did all this except the flywheel mod on a MS180. However realised that a full chisel ( 63PS) was a bit beyond its capability. It pulls the rpm at full throttle the bottom end of its torque range in the cut. Things improved a lot when I used a semi chisel 63 PM. But then found there was some unutilised power, so I tried full chisel with bumper link the PS3 and found it to be the best
I liked the 170 as is, but the micro chains burned out so quickly.
Swapped out with a 14” bar and new sprocket, got the .050 chisel on there now.
And I did the tensioner between the studs instead of behind the bar, for convenience sake. It was a very easy swap. Interesting thing there is, the saw is set up for the tensioner between the studs, why stihl doesn’t just put that on there stock I do not know.
Also threw the metal spikes on there, cause I like having the extra leverage.
And I tell you what, it’s a completely different saw.
It’s lighter, faster, and has better balance in the hand.
Used stihl parts for everything cause I’m a purist and I got mad stacks!!
Just kidding, I got no money, but I am a purist. Use genuine stihl parts for best performance.
Thanks for the video guy, fun to watch the mechanical process.
Nice! It is interesting how it is setup for the side tensions. I suspect they don’t include it so people will buy the 180 as an upgrade.
what kind of sprocket?
Hi from Don, see all your added hp improvements to MS 180C Good job, 👍 The saw will handle 12-14-16-18" bars Now try this what I did Add 20" bar too it: I did it and it handle 20" bar and chain , the only difference is cutting speed is slower but if you want cut that log that's 19" round the saw get it done I did it it and all is fine : Note: there is couple mods to this: Make sure oil holes work or you might have drill bar for this oiling flow,make sure it bolts up perfectly , and you may have to change clutch drum too or stay with .043 3/8p Note: drive links will increase due to the length Amazon does sell 20" bars and chains just order correct one
Good info. Thanks Don!
Well done. Good skills. One suggestion. When drilling anything at risk of flying shavings I make sure the shop vac is catching them. I even converted an old spring arm desk lamp as a third hand to hold things like the vac hose in place when needed.
Have a better new year.
Great idea, thanks!
I had the same problem when I put a Stihl carb on my Farmertec ms 360. The throttle rod would not clear the big area that surrounds the adjustment screws on all Stihl carbs. Since my Farmertec carb was identical to my Stihl carb - both being Zama C3A carbs, I decided to use my original carb until I can get a Stihl throttle rod for my ms 360. I will also have to order a new grommet for the carb adjusters, since the holes are smaller in the one I have on my 360. I could drill out the holes but would rather have the correct grommet.
Any reason why you are switching to an oem carb?
@@VincesDIYs yes, pretty easy - the Farmertec carb is squirrelly. I cannot get it to tune properly. I had the same problem on my MS 460. I switched it and it runs a lot better, now. I am not the only one who has had problems with Chinese carbs. They work but not as good as oem carbs, throttle rods, throttles and master control levers. I have also usually switched out these parts, too. I am a stihl man and I like my saws, whether Farmertec or Stihl, to crank and run the same way. When they don’t I replace parts until they do. My 460 beat me to death for a while but not anymore, but it has quite a few oem parts.
Finally tryed the 14" bar with full chisel chain, modified muffler and adjustable carb! Do it if your thinking about it! Damn things a little beast now!. No need for advanced timing in my opnion.
Nice! Agree about the timing - negligible difference.
I never realized how much better husqvarna is than stihl until I saw you take apart yours. I have a 440 and it's just built so much better. Tears threw huge 20inch diameter oak (wider than the saw is long) I have on my property like nothing. Much higher ram's, and the throttle is much more responsive.
This is a cheap homeowners version.
Your husqvarna 440 is roughly 360 bucks and 2.5 hp. The stihl MS170 is 200 bucks and 1.7 hp in factory configuration. The equivalent stihl saw to your husqvarna is probably the Stihl MS251 Wood Boss. It cost 380 Bucks and makes 3hp.
Saw arrived yesterday th-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and today I cut about 3/4 cord of wood with it. Make sure you get an extension chord that is at least 12 gauge wire, minimum. This is my first electric in about 10 years, and things sure have improved. The self-sharpener works great, and it just kept cutting through some pretty decent logs. Wear your eye protection, and ear protection. Excellent saw.
The MS170 is a gas powered saw, which is the subject of this video. You might want to see if there is a California compliant sight that you can post on.
I put a set of steel bucking spikes on my ms 171, too. It did not come with any. I had bought a set for an M180 that I gave to my daughter. One went on my MS 170 and the other one went on my MS 171. I had to go to my local Stihl dealer and get two 5M D screws. I used two 16MM length screws on the MS 170 but I had to shorten the screws for the MS171 to about 3/4” for the top screw and about 7/8” for the bottom screw. I cut them off with my Dremel with a cutoff wheel. I put Lock tite on them and screwed them in with my impact, after hand starting them with my 27Torx Tee wrench. You do not want to bottom out in the bottom hole and allow the bolt to contact the muffler in the top hole.
Thanks John, The link I shared in the description has the correct length screws.
@@VincesDIYs I just got them longer and cut them to fit. I don’t know the metric system. My dial mic is in inches, as are most of my other tools. I did not measure them after I cut them off. Just eyeballed them. Anything short of hitting the muffler or bottoming out in the bottom hole is fine.
I checked my relatively new Ms 170 on the tach. I was appalled - it read 14,500 and change. I will not run a saw this fast. So I bought an adjustable carb for my 170, but it would not fit, so I decided to put my original carb back on.
Two things I noticed were the plugs in the jet holes had what appeared to be minute Torx bit sockets in them. I worked under two assumptions - the manufacturer (Zama) had to have a mechanical means to install these plugs and any plug would have to be shaped like a normal jet in order to disperse the fuel into the carb in an atomized fashion.
I decided to see if I had a small screwdriver that would fit that ultra small socket, so I got out my jewelers screwdriver set and found a slot blade that fit this small socket.
I then turned the H jet plug out 1/4 turn, just like I would do to any H jet where the saw was to lean. I then put the 170 back together, no easy task.
I then cranked it up and let it warm up for five minutes. Everything worked normally. After five minutes I put my inductive tach on it. It read 13,050, a little high but a lot better than 14,500. I may richen it up a smidge, later, because I like 12,600-12,800 for most saws.
Anytime someone tells you the jets on an ms 170 cannot be adjusted - they are wrong, they can, but it is rather difficult. You must remove the air box and pull the carb out a bit and have a small screwdriver to adjust the plugs (jets).
Good to know. Thanks for sharing!
Small engines like that are meant to run higher rpm. My 70cc saws hit 13500 out of the wood. My 43cc saw 14500. Going richer reduces power in the cut.
Great video! The only thing I can think to add might be air intake mod to increase volume.
Would you kindly give the make and model of your new bench vice? Thanks!
It is a Yost Vise 750-E
Just curious about the muffler mod. I know it produces a good deal more power but it was my understanding that 2 stroke engines were really finicky about back pressure. If there's not enough the engine has a good chance of over revving and burning itself out or blowing up in extreme cases. Since the saw is only meant for light duty anyway for myself I would rather take a bit more time and not risk over working the engine. That being said i think all your other mods for making the saw work more efficiently and improving the user experience are great! And I have ordered the new chain tensioner and a new chain already for my saw.
Hi Seth, Your chainsaw should not over rev as generally you are full throttle when in wood. Max rpms can also be set when tuning. Tuning 2-strokes with the muffler/pipe is more of an art with dirt bikes etc but they use a special pipe, not muffler like chainsaws. Some reading here on the topic - forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100898.0
Engines needing back pressure is a myth. The ability to scavenge gases is the difference.
Swap the bar out for the .50 gauge bar and chain and leave your exhast alone, you will be happy with the results. No danger of having engine issues.
Good points
Ive found in Norway 017 from 1995 and 018 1999 both brand New!!!!! Those little chainsaws are very good for homeovner
Nice, They are good little saws!
Yeah, those really are great mods. I'd like to do the muffler mod, bar and chain mod, spike mod and the side chain adjust, after the warranty is done. Pretty cool Vince, appreciate the work you put into this.
Yes, those 4 are relatively easy and will make your saw better.
I got two bucking spikes to me not to set a damn bearing for my sprocket bearing two studs To Nuts The Sidewinder tensioner and I can't remember what else but all for $9 free shipping
Great video and info!! How is that plastic chain tensioner held up? What about the other parts? How have they held up? Would you do anything different? Thank you.
Everything is still working fine! If I did it again I would not mess with the timing as it made minimal difference. And if it was my only saw, I would stay with a 16” bar.
for cleaning your saw i suggest a hook and pick set i use one for my saw and its great for all the little oiler ports and creveses with a cuopon you can get one at harbor freight for 99 cents but other wise about five dollars.
Thanks for the tip! Something like this? www.harborfreight.com/mini-pick-and-hook-set-63697.html
Great info, thank you. Do you know of a kit to also get rid of the tool less chain adjuster that came on my MS180? It’s awful. I think it would need a new cover, the side adjuster you’ve shown, and then 1 more stud to add for the bar mount. Thank you.
Sorry, not sure of a kit. Check the holtszforma website for parts.
I got one just like it I just finished porting stock bar and chain running 110 Sunco and full synthetic klotz oil fastest 170 I ever seen I use it for tree work mostly
You tune it for the higher octane?
@@VincesDIYs yeah I had to buy a aftermarket carburetor because the one that was on it does not have higher low jet screws
I climb with mine all the time.Longer reach than a top handle and more torque for less effort...when you push it through the wood.
@@tristanburke2451 yes, that’s why I replaced the carb as well
@@marklam8548 but don’t you find it a pain that you can’t 1 hand it vs a top handle?
I am doing the felling dogs & side adjuster mods (once the parts arrive), the plastic dogs are juat crap and sometimes you juat need some bite, and the standard adjuster jams up with crap all the time.
I removed the spark arrerstor & opened up the muffler with a dremel (area you used the stepped bit on).
Nice! Those simple changes make it a nicer saw to work with
Another mod you can do that really made mine sing even more was changing to the optional 1/4p sprocket and running a 12” 1/4p chain which has a narrower kerf.
@Food Afield Podcast narrow kerf means the drivers/cutting teeth have less surface area to drive through which means more torque or pounds of force per cutting surface area. Think of it this way, if I gave you a 1/8” metal wire and asked you to push it into the dirt you wouldn’t have much trouble but if I ask you to do the same with a 3” round metal rod you’d need a tool to help you exert more force on the object to push it into the dirt. Since you’re working with a small engine with limited displacement you can get more performance by reducing the load placed on the engine. Normally to get more torque you need raw displacement. You can always get more horsepower out of it for when it tops out and gets going but under a lot of load it will struggle. Similar principle to reducing the weight or aerodynamic drag on a race car but in this case it’s the load being placed on the cutting teeth by narrowing them. If you ever go to a Stihl dealer look at the two chains next to each other.
@Food Afield Podcast 12" bar makes a minimal difference, the chain made the difference. I wanted a small bar to make the saw more nimble for limbing.
Your video is good I like the upgrades you did but I myself will never own another Stihl chainsaw from day one it was hard to start I took it back to the dealer to see if it needed some adjustments they took it in the back and came back out a few minutes later and said everything was good the other issue I had was about 2 years after I bought it I developed some issues with my elbows and now I can't start it at all because I lost a little grip in my hands which because it pulls so hard I can't hold the handle on the starting rope even my son that works as a small engine repair shop says mine pulls way to hard compared to other saws he's worked on some other people I've talked to that own Stihl chainsaws say the same thing that they are just to hard to pull and got rid of them and bought a different brand I have another saw that I have no problem at all starting now if you can tell me something that can be done for this issue to fix it I'll keep it but I don't think anything can be done other than putting a electric starter on it and we both know that can't be done but anyway thanks for a great video you do a great job explaining things
I upgraded my ms170 to an ms250. Made a drastic difference
For sure. But I still love the 170 for light work.
Yeah theyre ok i guess if youre on a budget. We sure sell alot of them at our shop. The ms150 is a better saw but that price is pretty rough.
I mean 180 bucks vs 500 bucks lol
You could upgrade again by getting a husky
Would buying a beefier, larger engine chainsaw be a more worthy investment, vs. the parts, labor, and major-time you put into this?
Yes, if you only have one chainsaw, I would get a larger one. This was more for fun to see if I could make it better. I have larger saws for larger work :)
You can also advance the timing by shaving the flywheel key and relocating for a few degrees advance
That was great. Thank you. Just bought an MS170 to go with my 390.
Glad you enjoyed!
There’s less friction using a rim and drum over a sprocket. The combination of a rim and drum plus a sprocket nose bar this setup is rollerized.
Yes exactly. I was wondering why it's not required/recommended, that the sprocket be upgraded too when going to a thicker gauge setup? I know that when I put the Baily's 1/4" .043 carving bar setup on my MS210, it came with a two piece rim sprocket and drum. This was changing from the standard 3/8" .050 single piece drum sprocket and 16inch bar setup.
Thanks, I have to do some repairs on my I will be looking in to some of those upgrades.
Hope it is helpful
Thank you for the video, all that work, time and money you’ve put into it. Now I know I’ll leave my MS170 stock 👍
It will be a lot easier to upgrade to MS180
Good little video. I have the 180 with the limp wrist pull. (Is there a fix or replacement for that?) Who ever thought up that type of pull start should be locked up. Changed the carb out on the 180 that seemed to be missing the filter intake housing gasket and the fuel line was twisted about 180 degrees. Didn't realize the non-adjustable carb or that I could have gotten and adjustable one. Thing hasn't run in years and was a freebee. It's in really good shape. I live at 3k' and the engine had an oscillating bog, but if I take the intake housing off and put my thumb about half way over the intake hole, it runs pretty good. I did upgrade form a Poulan P3816 that really was a good saw to a MS250? Not a bad saw, but it usually takes a few years and 1000's of cuts to tell if you really bought a good saw. I'll see if I can with the help of my foreign engineering degree, try to rich'n it up and see if that keeps it running. I'm still gonna try to salvage my Poulan, but the carbs they've come out with never seem to have the right linkage. I have to salvage the old linkage and install it on the new carb. PITA to do, but it worked last time.
Not sure if the “easy start” could be switched out. Perhaps using a recoil from a ms170
I learned a few things here, Thank you for a well done video. I am surprised that you did'nt mention the Oregon fast sharpening chain and blade setup using a half moon grindstone setup on the blade tip. I got one off Amazon and will only use this type now. Amazing time saver.
I've never used one and always thought of them as gimmicky. May have to try one now!
I liked this video so much I went out and bought an MS180 to turn into a hot saw, but it cut so good I haven’t done anything to it yet. 😂
Keep it as is until the warranty runs out.
love my ms170, gotten my moneys worth 100x over !
Try it with a 1123 640 2005 chain sprocket 6T of a 023. With the muffler and carb mod a 6T sprocket will only improve bit a bit more, especially with a full chisel chain
So that would make it run a little slower but have more power - effectively gearing it lower?
Yes, that would be the result
Hey, Vince! Thanks for your comprehensive video. I've done all the same mods to my 170. However, I'm struggling to get the saw to start with the master control lever in the normal run position. I need to keep the trigger pressed in, or put the lever on high idle. Yours seems to start no problem. I used and OEM Walbro W-215. Any ideas? Thanks. Mike
Have you checked your idle screw? If not then idle screw, you low jet screw may be off. Try turn it out a 1/4 turn at a time and see if that makes a difference.
I wonder if you could put the adjuster knobs on the Stihl carb.
I don’t think it it possible
Nice, well done! Just weeks ago purchased my first chainsaw ever :D
What did you end up getting?
Welcome to to club!
@@markatkinson9963 Stihl ms194. We recently bought forest from my wifes parents, I might do something there myself also, so I went with the light weight one (trees there are small enough for that saw).
@@jannek5757 cool. That is a tree top top handle saw if I recall? I just bought a 180 myself. So far it's been a good little saw cleaning up branches around the house. Good luck to yours!
@@markatkinson9963 Thanks and same to you! It is a regular saw but piston/engine direction is horizontal. I have cut a few medium size trees (about same as in video) from my yard and only done some tests in real forest. Good enough. If I need more speed and power in future, then I think I will upgrade to bigger Stihl/Husqvarna.
You are a genius sir...i have a Stihl chainsaw ms170 and not running well it's flooding and not stay running but no parts here were I'm from ..
Would not say that I am a genius.... Did you order a new carb or carb rebuild kit?
Just cleaning it must’ve given you a .05sec advantage I reckon ;)
Yup. Should have added some stickers for a few more hp as well.
@@VincesDIYs Speedholes should help as well :)
@@VincesDIYs if you remove the air filter it weights less, which makes it cut faster.
What is the liquid you are cleaning with saw with? Great Video thanks !
Just plain gasoline
Nice video and great ideas for my ms170. Been leaking oil since the day I bought it though, finally replaced the oil line and seemed to stop. Can you link that vise you’re using, or drop the name/brand? Snap-on vises are great, but not worth 1000$ IMO, would rather buy another chainsaw 😂
It’s a Yost 750e Around $200 Canadian on Amazon.
Labas! Galiu pasakyti kad rimtas geras pjuklas 17_18. Karburatorius turi paprasta sistema! Variklis tvirtai su rinktas! Galingumo pa kanka stumoklis turi du ziedus! Naujos laidos karburatoriu ne vertinu! Aciu kad pasidalinote! 😉👍👍👍
one of the very few videos with excellent accurate information. I would question why take the most basic low power model and modify the bar,chain,adjuster,muffler,carburettor and ignition timing rather than buy a higher spec model in the first place that would also have a higher chain speed, lower vibration levels, better power to weight ratio and be more durable.
I bought this 2nd hand for $50. With the part I still have less than $80-$90 into it. But i do have bigger saws for larger wood. This is now a nice limbing saw or a saw for my 14 year old son to use.
Weight is a big consideration for grandpa!
No replacement for displacement and rpm.
But ya I agree why mod such a basic tiny saw just get a bigger one. And a bucking bar lol never heard the dogs called that.
Thanks for this! Just got a 170 for some light duty work and wanted to add a metal bumper. This was perfect.
Happy to help!
@@VincesDIYs I didn’t see this part in the video but how did you mount the aftermarket bumper guard? I see on the saw there’s one threaded hole by the plastic bumper but where did you screw in the lower bolt?
@@giegermd You can see it here - th-cam.com/video/evleVUKFvys/w-d-xo.html
The good 'ol small engine mechanics brush, part number C01G47E
Took a second. Nice 😄
5:02 clean with water aur some oil.. Let me know if possible thanks yoy😅
I was using gasoline / petrol to clean
Not sure that little saw is worth all those upgrades. I have the 360, the 261 and the 170. For the little trimming of branches I do with it it’s fine. Good info though!
Maybe not worth the time if you put a $ amount to it. But its a fun little saw now.
Thanks for information, i have ms 180, but i am afraid to clean it up like this
Next up race gas 110 octane mite as well you advanced the timing up the octane
I run higher octane non ethanol pump gas. I need this saw to work every day so I don't want to push it too much
@@VincesDIYs I run 91 octane no ethanol gas in all of my saws.
Zajebisty jest ten gaznik! Kupilem miesiac temu ta pilarke i juz bede modyfikował ! :) Dzieki
Daj znać czy spalanie oraz moc się zmieniła
@@93Bubu93 jeszcze nie kupiłem gaźnika bo po wymianie prowadnicy i łańcucha na oregon 325 wchodzi w drewno jak w masło . Niespełna polowe wolniej od pilarki o nocy 3.5 km Echo japan.
Jak zmienię to dam znaka ale napewno da trochę kopa
I absolutely loved this content.. Just when you think you have found all the good chainsaw channels, i see this video... Honestly, great editing great music, amazing tips, and yeah, nice result.. Im wondering, do you think porting it would make any better performance?
I have inherited my dads old 017. Been having alot of fun trying to fix it, but just when i thought this would be it, it still wouldn't start.. after being disapointed for a few days and having a sore shoulder, ive ordered some new parts and ill keep trying.
Wow, thanks for the kind comments! Not sure about the porting. Probably would make a difference but it is a bit more tricky. Start with basic’s, spark and fuel. I would say 90% of small engine starting problems are carb issues. All the best with your 017
Porting is not as easy as people think, these saws aren't really worth the hassle of porting. I explain a lot about porting in my videos.
Porting isn't needed. After a few pulls of the recoil on choke, take the plug out. If it's dry, it's a carb issue.
Hi Guly, 017 doesn't have a large cc capacity, so even if you port it successfully, the benefit probably isn't worth it. Use it to familiarize yourself with 2 stroke engines, and try porting once you graduate onto bigger saws. Stay safe, always wear protection, and God Bless!
Ditto
Could you list the Bar, chain, and the bucking teeth part numbers please, I have yet to find them in the many comments. Thanks
It’s all in the video description.
Never completely gut the muffler when your modding it you need back pressure to give the saw torque
nah
Bogus
I got hand noticeably more torque at idle/revving and in cutting from my 170 by drilling out the muffler and opening up the exhaust outflow from the muffler with a common screwdriver.
Don't listen to this guy. Theres enough back pressure just going through a small turn up & out. Ported REALLY PORTED chainsaws have the least amount resistance in any flow area. Gut those mufflers people. & get rid of that God damn screen! Unless of course you live in California. Nah, still remove the screen.,
Well done! The first time I watched your video I didn't have a chain saw. Now I have a 170 cbe, a low compression start. I am a disabled veteran and now lifting small amounts of weight is very hard for me. I am most curious as to how much lighter your saw is with the before and after. Thank you for replying to me.
Hey buddy thank you for all you put aside for our country ... check out ironhourse or buckin Billy Ray they have a wealth of knowledge they share on here ... stay safe frosty and free brother and may God bless you and yours
Thank you for your service. The saw currently weighs 10.8 lbs (half tank of gas). I don’t think the smaller bar makes a big difference.
Excellent modifications. Just placed my order for the parts.
I'm used to tuning 2 stroke bikes so I would think the lean jet would give a better top power but just learning now that on chainsaws, richer and slight off tune is better. Maybe it's for the piston's life and temperature? Any idea why is it tuned this way?
Because there is no load on the engine when tuning like this. The “2-stroking noise” disappears as soon as you start cutting and put a load on it.
The log's diameter is about 20% smaller at the end :D cool video tho!
Not 20%, maybe 5%. Different camera angle, makes it look smaller.
I was wondering if a smaller bar would rip faster
I have an 18 on my ms290
Interested
Make a very small difference. I would only do it if I was going to use it as a limbing saw.
@@VincesDIYs ok thx
Ничего пока не понял но видео впечатляет.браво
I have to admit that the performance is better and this for a very small price,
congratulations
Yes, and most were relatively easy
Stihls are so easy to work on, though they rarely need it.
I agree. I have an 044 thats about 20 years old and the only thing it needs sometimes is a carb tune. I also have the 170 for around the house doing little trees and limbs. Runs great and fast for a little saw
I believe I could work on them blindfolded.
It's no wonder forest fire fighters use and depend on them.
There is a reason that they go for crazy prices even when they are 20+ years old.
@@VincesDIYs Absolutely
Would be nice to see if the new bar is wearing well, some report say it wears unevenly and needs grinding to get it true. I would stay with the better brands.
Just took a look at it. Haver used if for about 20+ hours and no uneven wear issues so far.
The question is, did he "git the gullet"
Or did he “stand up an buck”
Clean Chainsaw... Now its Time to get Her Dirty!!!
Great video on the Little Stihl, Now Need a Husky/Stihl Mid Size Mod...
Great Video!
Haha. Yup that how it goes. Next video will be using it taking down some tricky trees (up in a lift). I’m am working on an old 66cc pioneer chainsaw as well. Less modding and more getting it back into good working condition.
Cleaning is faster with air nozzle.
Great work, I just bought an MS170 to go with my old MS240, nice handy saw, I got the new 'dogs' from aliexpress, I might get the side adjuster next, not going to bother anything else, it's ok for me for occasional farm use,
just wondering can you get a 'chain catcher' for this MS170?
Stihl part number 1123 656 7700 - it is plastic though.
@@VincesDIYs I can't find the extra self tapping screw for the side tensioner on aliexpress, pity they didn't just include it with the tensioner, I might have to buy another spilke/dogs just to get the extra screw for it!!
@@roadwarrior8560 check out the holy forms website. They may have the single screws forsale
Bucking Spikes - Bumper Spikes - Dogs, think its pretty much a regional term.
You can't change the 16 inch bar for other 16 inch bar with more aggressive chainsaw teeth? I'm not on board with reducing the length of my bar
Yes, you can do that
Thumb, top handle, get it wrapped around underneath the handle !!!
Thanks! 2nd person who mentioned it. I never noticed it before.
I changed the bar and chain on my 170 few year back. Iv used it up trees limbing when my top Handel was playing up. Nice wee back up saw in case of emergencies👍🏻
Yes, I also like it for limbing the smaller stuff after dropping a tree.
Michael Fresh lol it is what it is. It's a back up saw at best.
Nice job. I’m a new TH-camr too. I subbed.
Thanks for the sub
Great video, now I should do some changes to my MS 170. Thanks and take care.
Thanks, you too!
The best mod for a MS170 is buying an MS250
Right?! I'm wondering why I'm watching an upgrade of a MS170 😂
@@oceanaddict9251me too😂😂😂😂
A ms 311 is the upgrade to the 250. Dump a little more gas to it and tune on the highside and it cuts like a big boy saw.
@@Woodbutcher-c9j you don’t always need it, unless in your felling biggins. I drop 30in trees with my ms261 at work on a daily basis
Ms250 is the best lightweight saw stihl makes.
by making the modification of the shorter bar and the chain you recommend, is the exhaust open, do you think that the carburetor should be changed? Without carburetor, doesn't it turn out too thin?
I would be fine without changing the carb. It was not too lean before changing it.
@@VincesDIYs Thanks for the reply.
May I also ask if you know a better bar than the one fitted by you? what could be a really good bar for this modified saw?
honestly I have some timpro to use Chinese bar and chain.
Nice job!
Thanks!
Carburettor modification looks like a 'pain in the keyster'! I wouldn't touch the timing; make sure you back out your high speed carby screw a touch if you advance the timing. Overall a job well done. Thanks for posting this video.
If I did it again, I would leave the timing alone - not much of a performance change but I had to see :)
I had to laugh about the sidetracking. It was sooo me.
how is going to a shorter bar n upgrade??
Makes it a lighter “pruning” saw. Not an upgrade if this is your only saw.
@@VincesDIYs oo ok, thanks for the reply man i dont mind the weight of the extra bar length, i think id rather have the reach over the saved weight, n i even have a bad back
Best way to modify a chainsaw is to not buy a little tikes saw and make sure it's a husqvarna.
Haha
I'll drink to that.I would assume that
They needed a gas operated apparatus for cutting.
Best place for Husqvarna is the scrap metal pile.
@Michael Fresh , I've got Stihl and never had a problem with it. I've had Husqvarna and other Husqvarna brand related products and they've all been shit. I've blown the heads on two Husqvarna chainsaws and stripped the bores on another two Husqvarna chainsaws. With my Stihl chainsaws I've never had any problems. With regards to the chainbar oil, I've turned mine up a little but never had an issue with oil coming out in the wrong place.
A hope you could help me with my questions .... I have two MS170 ---almost new ---
Last time I used them the teeth on the chain almost disappeared !!!---cheap one!! ---
I am going to replace with two new 18 inches chain and blades (Holzfforma ) from China ..
or should be better if they are16 inches ? By the way how do you measure a blade ...
from the front to the back or front to the binging of the slot ? Both chain saw
have a ZAMA Carburetors could they be changed with a WABRO Carburetors if
trouble arise ? Thank you
I would keep the carbs you have and just get a carb rebuild kit if you have issues with them. Generally, the actual bar length is about 1" shorter than what the bar is listed as. I would not get a 18" bar for this saw unless it is the only saw you have and you need to cut 18" + wood. Hope this helps!
@@VincesDIYs ....Thank you for your suggestions
...I think I will get a 16" bar as well some spare gaskets for the
existing carburetor .