Thank you very much. Saved me 22 minutes for the review of the KME. I started with the Spyderco Sharpmaker, tried the Lansky and hated it, then decided to spend the money and get the KME. Bought the basic model with stand, added the 50 and 100 grit stones, 6 and 3 micron lapping films, and recently got the kangaroo strops which I've yet to try. While it's not necessary, getting that mirror polish is a sweet thing.
I’ve been using Lansky for about 35 years. 15 years ago I upgraded to all diamond stones. I think Lansky is the best system on the market (and I have tried most of them) but keep coming back to the Lansky. A diamond kit will cost about $100 bucks, some extra leather strops and compound $20 more. I finish with a traditional leather strop and diamond compound. Once you learn the system it’s very versatile allowing for many more hone angles than just the presets. I can take my supersteels like M4 or M390 down to 15 degrees per side (less if desired) finish with .5 micron diamond strop for a truly shaving sharp / hair whittling blade. I’d shy away from power systems for non-professional use, manual systems are more forgiving, more versatile, more cost effective and produce awesome results.
my problem with lansky is that they give you a hole and and say eh its about 20 degrees. you have to make a conscious effort to make sure the rod doesnt move up or down. why cant they just make the hole a more precise fit or put it on a heim joint like the better ones.
For my lanky and smith's similar type sharpners, I Take a hole punch in a plastic card like a gift card and using a small metal clip I position it exactly in the middle of the slot...no more sloppy movement. ...make 2, one for each side and you're good to go
For the past 10 years ive tried lots of stuff, but always go back to stones. I want to try a fixed angle system but ive got unlimited options with my 8x3 diamond stones. I sharpen hunting knives machetes, axes, chisels, folding knives etc... the diamond stones are just so fast thats the selling point for me
@@dirtrider88 I think it's a matter of cost/benefit. I'm betting there are fewer people who care about precision than necessary to justify the increase in cost/price. Obviously, I'm just guessing. For a lot of folks, "about 20 degrees" is good enough. For knife enthusiasts, it's frustrating.
This is seriously one of my new favorites in the knife sharpening videos of TH-cam. You go very in depth and give accurate (for the most part) information. Good job Pete.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
I am a very early amateur sharpener. I picked up the "humble" Lansky and used it for the first time and am very happy with the edge I was able to achieve. Not the mirror that I see on many knife channels, but close enough. Need more stones though.
the most likely reason is bc the lansky kits only go up to fine as far as i’m aware. i have a dmt version of a similar guided sharpener coming and it comes with extra fine and i ordered an extra extra fine (1000 grit and 8000 grit respectively)
Great video! Most of my experience is from years ago with wet stones and a leather belt. That's just the way it was done. Practically everyone I knew did it the same way( i hope I'm not dating myself.). I just recently purchased a Ken Onion work sharp with the variable speed and adjustable angles. I have used this unit twice so far. The first time I practiced with my wife's kitchen knives as guinea pigs. Had to remove lots of material to get rid of the damage, then eventually moved up to the strop. I found the angle guide a bit awkward, but the knife edge was satisfactory considering the original condition. The second time I used the sharpener, I removed the guide and just used it free hand as if I were using wet stones. I felt far more comfortable with this method. When I adjusted the lighting, I discovered that I could see the burr forming as I brought the knife across the belt. That was brilliant! I was a little excited and called my wife over to witness, she humoured as wife usually does. The result was the edge wasn't hair popping sharp, but I was close, and only on my second try. I'm still a little nervous to try it on my good knives. So if you have any for me to practice on, send them over. Ha! If all else fails, I still have my wet stones.
Thank you. It was very confusing for me when I was researching which sharpening systems to buy. Many of the drawbacks for each system are hard to discern but discovered quickly when using them.
I'm a chef and have used the Norton Tri stone for years. Sold the restaurant and can't seem to pick the skill back up...I hone straight razors and fabricate strops so I have some of the best stones available. I've seen a number of set ups and some are so tedious with lots of parts to get lost I think every guy should learn to sharpen their knives on stones and that includes me. Great video..
@@requiscatinpace7392 probably the best practical use for it would be using lower grits on tough to sharpen steels. I wasn’t getting much accomplished with the black stone on my para 3 maxamet before I got diamond stones. Taped on some 120 grit ceramic sand paper and was able to bring the edge to apex in no time.
@@surge3518 perfect, I’m re-profiling a D2 blade and get bored so it’s taking me forever. I know it’s not super steel but my attention span is minuscule! Thanks to you my rough grit has gone from 120 to 60 !
Thanks for the great video and tips mate! It's nice to have an Aussie knife nerd in our midst..👍 The lansky is still king with me, it keeps my knives nice and sharp. I think the key is not letting your knife get too dull, maintain it and strop it.
I love the edge the lansky puts on a knife (vs my work sharp). Very consistent angle. I just don’t like the initial reprofiling of the factory edge. But once you set your angle (don’t do less than 30 degrees total for carbides like vanadium) it’s great. Guess I need that rough diamond stone.
I have a Lansky system. I use the extra coarse diamond, medium diamond, fine diamond, 1000 grit ceramic, 2000 grit ceramic, and leather hones with green compound and Flexcut Gold compound. I can typically reprofile a pocket knife to a 20 degree (actually about 18 degrees) angle and bring it to a mirror edge in 20 to 30 minutes. To resharpen a knife I have already processed takes about 10 to 15 minutes if it got pretty dull, 5 minutes otherwise. I have the standard clamp with no rubber in the jaws. I clamp blades with the lips of the clamp and don’t bother with tape or other padding. I have yet to scratch a blade. I replaced the red thumbscrew with a standard slot head bolt to allow more torque. Yes, the system seems rickety at first use but it works. I have yet to process a knife with it that wasn’t razor sharp at the end.
It really bugs me how seemingly nobody bothers to read the Work Sharp manual or even watch their videos. I have not seen a single dude or gal on TH-cam use that thing correctly. Put the blade in the guide, THEN start the belt, simultaniously pull the blade back and stopp the belt with the tip still on it. Like that no tip is being rounded, no recurve is establisched.
@@tomdickharryjane Yeah, not ruining your knives and not running the sharpener between strokes for no reason is so stupid... I also like to keep my car running in the garage when I come home every night, having to turn my car on every morning is super stupid
I have had a lansky system for at least 20 years. You really know how to make that work. Thanks. DB knives the master of chisel grinds👍🏻 Glass of Booze? Roll up a BFO (big fat one) and have at it.
I bought the lansky 5 stone a few days ago. I absolutely love it. And since I can’t afford the stroping thingy I just use my leather belt and It works fucking wonders
...for a better flat grip and security of flat grinds (KME), squeeze the jaws tips together with thumb & forefinger tight against the flats while tightening...the jaws spread in the back creating the correct grip angle on the blade...a tip from KME...just a thought...have a great week...
I bought into the hype on the Worksharp due to several youtubers that I follows gushing over it. I came to the exact same conclusion you did. Great for larger tools, way to easy to mess up smaller blades, even with practice. Went back to my Lansky. It does everything I need it to do (and always has). It's the system I learned to sharpen with, and the one I enjoy using the most. I don't mind how long it takes, I find it rather therapeutic. Incidentally, I agree with your assessment on necessary upgrades for the Lansky.
Agreed. It's fairly relaxing and meditative. Very "simple" task with actually a ton of hidden complexity and repetition, it's a great "chop wood carry water" activity.
I got the Lansky a few months back and have put some of the best edges on my Knives. I got the standard one (coarse,med,fine) and added the extra fine stone separately with my order, if you get what i mean. Just found out you can get a stropping, stone?, instead of stone material, you get a piece of leather attached to the block the stones' usually attached too. Hopefully my friendly knife stockist will have them in soon days.✌🏼🇬🇧👍🏼
FYI there is now available for the KME System a smaller jaw specifically designed for pen knives. They are the "Pen Knife Pro Jaws" and cost $24.95 US. They are for smaller knives & allow for lower bevel angles as well.
4 years ago I thought I was a knife guy when I got a Kizylar Biker X in D2 And I was totally fine using freehand diamond and stones to get my sharp edges on things. Recently I got my first Spyderco knife, the Caribbean plain leaf edge, then right after the Police 4 in K390, I am now uneasy about the prospect of sharpening them with my collection of nice stones freehandedly, but I will try when the time comes and see what I end up with, if that fails this video is great for guiding me in the direction of a good system that will be a bit more precise with greater ease. Appreciate all the great knife and other content ! 🍉🥝🔪 US CA
I learned to sharpen by hand holding the stone in my left hand and knife in my right. I use diamond hones and finish with a very hard Buck stone. I use my diamond to sharpen my carbide drill bits. When I get a really messed up edge and don't feel like spending 20 minutes trying to fix totally dull knives I use my 1x42 belt grinder with a 220 silicon carbide wet belts to put a properly formed bevel and then back to diamond to finish the blade. Of course I make knives too, so it's not like I don't have practice on the belt grinder.
I bought the worksharp, can't say I'm a big fan. I used to sharpen with the paper wheel system which I prefer over the worksharp. I just got a Wen in yesterday (Tormek copy) I bought Tormek accessories (knife holder, angle finder, stone dresser and stone truing tool) and all in I'm a little over $300. I haven't sharpened with the Wen yet but put the stone wheel on an plugged it in and everything seemed to run incredibly smooth and quiet. I wasn't sure when I ordered it because some people complained about alot of wobble on the wheels. I think I lucked out. Everyone says stone truing tool is a must with these type of sharpeners. Time will tell if it will hold up. I figure if it craps out I will bite the bullet and get a tormek but initial impression is for $130 the Wen looks to be pretty well built. I do like that with the flip of a switch you can change wheel direction instead of having to turn the machine around
@@russellbrooker2122 I have way more than $899 in my Wicked Edge with the small angle adapter, Chosera stones, etc.. . I don't have the $100 beer, though LOL!
$899 is the base price. $250-$350 per wheel there's three diamond wheels a carbon wheel and a $430 japanese wheel, jigs and accessories on average are ~$50 a piece. It can cost a small fortune to get the whole kit but most people just need the machine and maybe a diamond wheel to get around having to true the wheel. They're in the same league as each other for different reasons.
Good video. Couple of things you might find of interest... Tormek: Tormek has stated the SB stone won’t come to the T-4. The diamond stones (coarse & fine) for the T-2 will fit the T-4... however, Tormek says to use them dry (because they won’t test them wet... if you or anyone tries, use something like Honerite Gold, or they will rust). They haven’t said whether or not they’ll make the diamond stones for the T-4 similar to the ones for the larger machine. WorkSharp: I’m sure you know that WS makes a much better sharpener now. In fact, the WS with the Blade Grinding Attachment (they call it their Elite Knife Sharpening package, or something like that) will easily give your Tormek a run for the money, on knives anyway. The old WorkSharp you have is no comparison to the upgraded system, and doesn’t have the issues you described. The advantages to the WS package, and disadvantage of the Tormek, is that it will handle a wider variety of shapes/sizes that knives now come in, it is usually faster, and easier to setup and use.
cbwx34 yeah the KO Worksharp with the grinder attachment by all accounts is awesome. I had a fellow sharpen my rex121 knife with one and he got great results
I'm hooked on the worksharp. The 20° angle you are showing is mainly for kitchen knives. The adapter you didn't show has the 25° angle for hunting knives and such and it also has the scissor sharpening attachment. I think you were trying to show how the worksharp operates but obviously you were using it from the wrong side. And the blade is placed on the angle before you turn it on and you are suppose to stop it when the end of the knife comes to the belt so as not to round over the point. The worksharp does it all and does a great job!
I got the Lansky Blade Medic from Blade HQ. No Pro Shop precision, but module works magic if got hands. DIAMOND rod carbide blocks ceramic cylinders 😅 and serrated sharpener too.. I had to spend over $300. I GOT 2 F3 2 carbon fiber ti s35vn. Nice for plating fruits❤🎉😊
I have 3 large Arkansas stones 1 soft 1 hard and 1 hard black. Each are 1"×8"×12" and with these stones I can easily put a mirror finish on any blade. I know that everyone has their preferences but I would like to ask you to use a hard black or translucent Arkansas stone followed with only a few passes on a strope. If you really want to see that finish do it on a larger flat piece of steel. It will take longer but the finish will amaze you.
Instead of waterstones I now use the Trend 300/1000 grit diamond stone followed with honing on ceramic rods set at 15 degrees in a wooden holder. This setup is fast, long lasting, and pretty hard to screw up.
Yup. I use the Ken Onion Work Sharp blade grinding attachment. It is great at what I use it for; cleavers, tools, blenders, scissors, large knives and blade repairs. I use DMT diamond plates for my super steel pocket knives. I use Norton water stones for my kitchen knives including the Spydiechef.
I never realized stone sharpening was so revered. Until a few years ago, I figured most knife enthusiasts had some stones. I was blown away when I read that some people sending their knifes to the manufacturers to get resharpened.
well when benchmade does it for free along with replacing anything that needs to be replaced (also for free) ill send it to them and practice my skills on my cheaper knives.
Excellent video Pete!! I find my kme films last much longer if I unload them. I wash them with a soapy sponge. Also, knife center has decent overseas shipping, so I wait for them to have em in stock (they never are) then get a supply. Kme DOES have a pen knife jaw tool, though I never tried it.
I sharpen for $. I have a tormek t4, worksharp ken onion with blade grinder attachment & a kme with the full set of diamond stones and kangaroo strop. What gives me the sharpest edges? The kme followed by the worksharp, and coming in last, the tormek. The worksharp is my go to, to quickly raise and knock off a burr. The tormek with standard stone is poor at reprofiling, it takes forever... The kme is my most enjoyed method, it's pretty fast when you use the beast or the 100, and the edges I can get are insane. Very sharp. Lately, the tormek sits unused. But I still like it, and appreciate the edge it gives, but I usually have to strop by hand at the end to get the kind of sharpness I like.
Great video very helpful. I got the good Japanese whetstones... although just because you got the good stones doesn't mean anything, they are just blocks of potential unless you have the skills and muscle memory to hold a consistent angle. I'm getting better, knives will shave hair but my edges are not even and perfect. I'm itching to get a KME, I just wish they able to do those longer 8"-10" chef knives which I have quite a few of. Loved the comprehensive video although as I've watched many of your vids most had been covered at some stage or another. Cheers
The sharpening systems out there are really good. My only problem is I can raise a burr on most knives in 30 seconds with Shapton glass stones (500 grit). Then I spend another 5 minutes polishing and I'm done. Screaming sharp in 5 min. (actually hair popping sharp). Admittedly, it took some time and frustration to get the muscle memory to get consistent results but it's just SO fast and effective that I have a hard time breaking out the sharpening systems anymore. The glass stones are definitely a large investment but worth every penny. You can also geek out and run the grits up too 16,000-30,000 for grins. Normally, I only go up to 2000 grit on a regular basis but going higher is fun sometimes and the stones do it very quickly.
Cool overview of your various systems and good timing. Although I've gotten pretty decent with my Smith's Arkansas TRI-HONE kit over the years, I'd like to step it up a bit. The Lansky Deluxe Diamond system and a few finishing stones sounds like the way to go for me.
I know it's kinda janky so I held off getting it for years! And you're probably right about getting the KME. But, I don't sharpen my blades too often, maybe once or twice a month. Probably still worth it...
zero2three1 yeah I would say it’s still worth it when you get a good system that you like you’ll probably sharpen your knives a lot more that’s what happend when I got decent at freehanding
Does the KME do a better job of evenly holding a full flat ground blade than Lansky? I bought a Lansky probably 20 years ago and was discouraged to find that it wasn't really able to evenly hold a full flat ground blade. (which most of my knives have)It's pretty much mothballed now. I have a Ken Onion Worksharp, which is OK. The problem with it is that it uses the side of the blade as an angle reference, instead of the line through the center of the blade. So for example, it would give a very different angle on a scandi Mora compared to a wide flat ground blade like a Spydiechef. Also, it's very hard to hold the angle steady when I get out to the tip and most of the blade is off the guide. For the Tormek, how do you follow the curve of a blade? Is that part of it still guided, or does it become kind of freehand? One popular system missing here is a the Sharpmaker. That's the one I like and use. It's so simple and so well designed. The ceramic stones and coarse diamond ones don't seem to ever wear out. You should check one out. It's not guided, but since all that's required is to keep the knife vertical, it's pretty reliable anyhow.
Best bang for buck is $80 Worksharp, 1st belt is 80 grit for tools, profiling and removing knicks and edge chips. Second is main belt used for general knife sharpening and gives a fine edge. 3rd is used to hone knives, sharpen serrations and for quick touch-ups that can be reused many times with abrasive paste applied to belt when it loses grit.
I bought a Edge Pro Clone from EBay for $19.00 about 3yrs ago and never looked back . That is a Big price difference. I used the Chinese stones it came with for practice and bought the good Edge Pro stones for about $16.00 ea for my good knives , the system works great , I reprofile all my knives with it, and then use my Spyderco Sharpmaker for touch-ups .
Great stuff Pete. Have you considered getting the convening rod for the KME? Could be another edge retention area to explore. (I know you did this with the Worksharp but I’d be interested in seeing how a high quality convex edge performs vs a v edge).
The Smith's system has the same issue. The Smith's only goes to 20 degrees, but the jaws still catch the stones on some knives no matter what you do. I wouldn't buy another one. I would invest in a KME system though.
I have the Lansky, KME and the WORKSHARP pro - if you need mirrors, KME otherwise, for a toothy edge, my Lansky is exceptional (not fancy) by absolutely excellent! Every knife I have has a hair popping edge from my very basic Lansky.
Yeh the WorkSharp? Just a few tips that I have found that make the WorkSharp work really well. 1. You are supposed to let off of that trigger when the tip is halfway through the belt. Not ride all the way through. That's why you are burning your tips off. 2. I know in a previous video you had said that you use the 20 degree setting for pretty much all your knives. Kitchen and work knives. That's a no no too. Gotta follow the directions specifically to get that sharpener to work the way it's supposed to man. Leaving it on that setting will eat your work knife blades up cause that's too shallow of an angle bro. 3. You are moving a bit to fast with that pocket knife as well. Gotta slow it down just a bit. No, it won't get blades as sharp as a pro using a superior sharpener. But you will go through less belts and less blade wear if you follow the specific directions. And that machine will get knives super sharp (sharp enough to shave hair off of your body) if you do EXACTLY what the directions say brotha. Not trying to be an ass or a know it all. Just trying to help sir. Ty for the vids tho.
Love my KME. There was a learning curve and you can mess up an edge or two but it’s an absolutely amazing product made by an amazing company. Don’t know if you have used customer service yet but KME has been absolutely amazing. That is just as big a part as the actual system for me.
Explain? There are people who are going to buy these systems so it's much more beneficial to explain than to just mention that there is a learning curve of some sort.
Hey thanks for the vid. How would you say the Spyderco sharpmaker or Lanksy turnbox stack up to these? Would you say they are 40 or 60 percent as good an edge? Or not even close? I am fairly new to the hobby and use a turnbox. With a little work I can get a hair shaving edge but I wouldn't call it a mirror.......your comments are welcome.
Sharpton 1k, 2k, 5k is a great set for about $150 in the US. Add an Atoma 140 for flattening and fixing chips(I use a Shapton 320 for chips and 400 Atoma for flattening) and a decent stone holder and you're set. At under $220 you can sharpen anything for a quite long time. Do I have an edge pro and clamp systems with all sorts of stones, compounds and strops? Yup. But a lot of my sharpening is done on those 3 stones and a homemade kangaroo strop with diamond spray.
The reason you're having issues with the knife tips on the Worksharp is because you are using it incorrectly. The directions states you are to stop the belt BEFORE the tip passes the belt. You are supposed to stop the belt with the tip in the middle of the belt. Then lift the knife and start the belt again for the next pass.
I have been told that the T2 Diamond wheels will fit the T4, and you can also get CBN wheels called the Tornado Jr. for the T4. I just got a T4 a few months ago, and I think it is the best way to sharpen knives, as well as being the fastest.
I cook for a living so sharp tools are how I pay for my house and feed my family. And have many, many hours behind a stones. I love Norton stones. I have ones that are at least 15 years old and still going strong. Great quality at great prices. For me and my tools, Norton is the way to go. I always tell people if you want to learn to sharpen with stones, buy a $20 (or less) kitchen knife (pairing or similar) and practice with it to get your technique down. This practice will lessen the anxiety when it comes time to put your prized possession to the grind. Good luck!
OMG I had no Idea my phone could be used to measure angles so accurately! I knew their was a reason I subscribed to this guy. Also I just found out I have been putting 14 Degree angle on my dog biscuit steel knife, no wonder it dies immediately when I try to cut nylon cord with it.
You are correct that the work sharp will damage the tips of pocket knives, because you using it incorrectly. You are supposed to stop the belt when the knife tip is half way across the knife tip. Pulling the knife all the way through the moving belt tends to round the tip of the blade. I have the Ken Onion version of the Work Sharp, and it is much better, in that it lets you dial in any angle you want.
Very helpful review. However, I would suggest showing and keeping onscreen the make & model during each section, to remind viewers which one you're describing. After the first couple, it's easy to forget.
Real cool video man You forgot to include sandpaper hahahahha I'm using old stones, and 2000 grit sandpaper on top of glass(because I'm a broke student hahaha) Soooooo which system would you choose to put a mirror edge of exactly 13° on a cpm-M4 steel blade knife? Thank you kindly good sir
I’m looking at getting the Lansky system. Mainly for my pocket knives. I’m on somewhat of a budget. Would you recommend going with the standard diamond system then adding on the ultra fine and sapphire polishing hones? Or do I go for the deluxe non diamond version? A lot of my blades are D2 and couple of BDN1 and sv30
The original Worksharp I found worked well for pocket knives, though you have to be standing or at least I did to keep the right angle while pulling the blade through. The Worksharp Ken Onion on the other hand worked best with larger blades using the flat blade guide (still have to stand). As for Whet stones. Spyderco seems to have come out with the best bang for the buck with their ceramic stones. Least expensive of the sharpening items to buy that works is the Speedy Sharp. Rips metal away and hard on knives but does give you a sharp edge in just a minute or two if your good at angles and strop. The key word is Strop. Know how to strop and have one, saves sharpening and ripping metal away.
I just ordered a couple good diamond stones for bench sharpening. I am very split on the KME, I like the system, but I also feel it`s overpriced for the materials you get (I´ll talk about that in my video on the KME). The TSPROF (which is like one of the competitors to the KME) is definitly a nicer made system in terms of fit and finish, I think it is about the same price as the KME, tho the KME has the better stones. I think I`ll end up being a Benchstone sharpener someday, I just like doing it and I am pretty good at it, actually recently sharpened a couple of axes and hatches free hand for some friends and did very well :D
German Survivalist a kme will probably work better for most knives under about 7 inches though a tsprof will also have a bit of a hard time with a full flat grind
@@bp-hx9ts Yes. I have a KME (and WE) and the KME has no problems with FFG and is perfect knives under 7 or 8 inches. Plus, it's so compact I can fit it in my desk drawer.
As I am based in Australia, would you recommend buying the KME from knifesupplies in Australia(although I could not see your kit on their site) or directly from KME in the US?Thanks
Im from West Australia and you can get kme products from knifesupplies.com.au but for that price man I would honestly go for ken onion work sharp system. Its superior to the one tested here
My progression of sharpening systems: Spyderco Sharpmaker (takes some time to get the right technique down but works decently), Lansky (hated it, having to hold it in one hand, overall I just found it a pain and returned it), KME (love it. Started with the basic kit with the stand then added the 50 and 100 grit stones, 6 and 3 micron lapping films, and recently got a kangaroo strop with 1.5 cbn emulsion that I've yet to try.) I can get a mirror polish with the films so I'm looking forward to how much more mirrory the strop + emulsion will get me.
I'm a big fan of the Edgepro system personally. I feel like it's the sweet spot between hand sharpening and a clamped system like the KME. It's the same basic idea as the KME though. Great video though!
@@bp-hx9ts Those seem like a good option too. I looked at the Hapstones when I bought me EP professional, and the only reason I chose the EP instead is that I felt like they were the original fixtured system of that style and I wanted to support that. The one thing I would caution you about, is that no system automatically turns you into an amazing knife sharpener, there is always a learning curve. I probably sharpened 10 or so cheap knives before I was satisfied enough with my results to move to some of my nicer knives, and after sharpening about 100 knives I feel like I'm still improving.
James G. Oh definitely I’m a bit of a novice with my kme onley had it for a month have sharpened about 50 knives though there is way more of a learning curve then I thought I’m used to freehand though so that may be why and I understand why you would go for the original I feel like hapstone innovated enough that it’s it’s own thing and it makes vast improvements
Igbo Thunder yup plus hapstone gives extra innovations like there magnets the m2 has a vertical blade support tons of add ons the v7 can use any stone etc I have a kme i plan on getting a hapstone v8 or maybe m2 that with freehand stones and maybe a tormeck t4 is basically the best setup I can think of
Some knives (Benchmade in particular), specify NOT to use a power sharpener for sharpener. I just bought a Lansky knockoff that I’m going to experiment with.
Can ya get the WorkSharp Adjust and talk about how lansky already made this system just less gimmicky? I just bought one ..it works fine but has some silly design flaws I believe they do on purpose. Would be interesting to see your opinion.
Awesome video, thanks! If you had the option of buying only one electric sharpening machine to help you open a small knife sharpening side-business, would you go for the Tormek T2, Tormek T4, Tru-Hone, or something else? Any pros and cons of each? I’m looking to sharpen knives only at this stage and not scissors or tools. Will be targeting restaurants and cafes. I have a very small spare room in my apartment, so I need something practical as I don’t have a lot of space. Speed of sharping in minutes is crucial, and of course quality of sharpening as important. Thank you!
I brought a chinese clone off aliexpress of the KME system with diamond stones for under $90 before watching this i didnt even know it was a clone it just looked like a good system. Getting really excited to try it out and get my kitchen knifes to a nice finish as i can no longer keep them sharp with a honing steel.
Hi. Smitty here. At time 21:06 I saw all of your stones/hones/strops with dark spots. Here's what I found and use once everything is a bit dirty... Go get some white vinyl pencil erasers. Please do not use this trick with the 70 grit or the 120 grit. The lowest stone I do this on is the 280 grit. So, from 280, 600, 1000 Super Sapphire(2000 grit) and 2 leather strops. 1 with green 2500 grit and 1 with red 4000 grit. Please trust in what tell you. I use the pencil erasers to make everything look like new stuff.
The fact still remains that I can grind a bevel thin and then any edge I put on it will outperform a mirror polished edge from any system, whether it was sharpened via stones or a system.
really can't believe you use that worksharp so much....the junk plastic guides really made me toss mine in the sell on ebay pile!! shabazz sends electric thru my ears...and hands like a 12 yr old girl!
For like 6 months I've been trying to decide which sharpening system to get I have an edge pro but have had terrible luck with it of all the systems if you had to choose just one for mainly sharpening Spyderco folders which one would you choose
Great Video as usual! In your opinion is the tormek a good solution for someone not wanting a polished edge, on a range of knives from kitchen to small EDC and Traditional knives? or would you recommend the KME? Have you any experience with the Wicked Edge? if so how do you think it compares with the others?
Great video thanks. I've got a lansky but your review has helped me decide to bite the bullet and invest in a kme system, probably the base plus then pick up the add ons as I go. Quick question about the lansky though.. I tend to end up with a wider bevel on one side than the other, any tips on correcting that? Many thanks.
And here I am with a 30 dollar fallkniven sharpener I but on a 2x4 and held in placed with nails along long with a leather belt to get the hair popping sharpness.
Good stuff! I’m gravitating more and more to the Tormek, but it will be a while to budget for one. Is there any system good for sharpening recurve blades? I own a few and don’t know how to approach sharpening one. Thank you!
For what it's worth i'll give MY 2 CENTS.. I have a Lansky and Whetstones and I love both of them, I suggest that you have a basic Whetstone set because it's a basic still that every knife owner should have. I suggest having both.
Great video, I've been using the KME from the early days prior to "Full Deluxe Kit ". The current kit is comprised of all the accessories and the lapping films. The Deluxe Kit has 50, 100, 140, 300, 600, 1500 grit diamond stones. I will typically re-profile a new knife starting at 100 grit diamond then finish off with the full lapping film up to .1 micron 60,000 grit. The excellent part is that the stones are all of the same thickness. I check the angle when switching to the lapping films. I had to go to the diamond stones to deal with my first knife in ZDP189 (Spyderco Endura). You just can't cut the very hard steel with anything less. (in a reasonable time). The KME Delux Kit is what I would buy today for my folding knives. $299 and you are good to go. The lapping films are optional, a good strop is all you need. My Spyderco Endra has had 2 edges, the factory edge and the re-profile on the KME. The blade needs a stropping every few months and is by far the sharpest EDC blade I have ever owned. I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO BECAUSE... I am looking at a better solution for larger blades in the kitchen. I am a "C" student best case with the bench stones and really have a desire to get the same results for our kitchen knives that I get with the KME. I am looking at TSPROF ($800 Yikes) OR The Hapstone R1 with the diamond stones for $499. I am leaning toward the Hapstone R1 because it will take my KME stones and films. I have a feeling that the KME will still get the most use because it is smaller and can be deployed quickly and put away fast. The other systems are larger and will likely live in my garage. Setup time, mess and hassle are a big factor in getting things done. The other thing that gets very little discussion is the fact that clamp systems allow you to use your "dominant" hand for both sides of the knife. Think about how well you are able to write with your less dominant hand? This is what prevents me from looking at the Edge Pro system or the Hapstone R7. Thank you very much for the video Pete.
Capitan stamp here:
1:58 - Tormek System.
10:34 - Worksharp.
17:50 - Lansky.
22:36 - KME
31:02 - Whetstones.
35:35 - Closing up.
ThisIsAPrettyLongUserNameWhyTheFuckWouldHeDoThatSoThatEveryoneWouldThumbsUpIt.
You're a hero.
Thanks m8
Thank you very much. Saved me 22 minutes for the review of the KME. I started with the Spyderco Sharpmaker, tried the Lansky and hated it, then decided to spend the money and get the KME. Bought the basic model with stand, added the 50 and 100 grit stones, 6 and 3 micron lapping films, and recently got the kangaroo strops which I've yet to try. While it's not necessary, getting that mirror polish is a sweet thing.
Grammer Natcis' hair are you're christmas present; q
I’ve been using Lansky for about 35 years. 15 years ago I upgraded to all diamond stones. I think Lansky is the best system on the market (and I have tried most of them) but keep coming back to the Lansky. A diamond kit will cost about $100 bucks, some extra leather strops and compound $20 more. I finish with a traditional leather strop and diamond compound. Once you learn the system it’s very versatile allowing for many more hone angles than just the presets. I can take my supersteels like M4 or M390 down to 15 degrees per side (less if desired) finish with .5 micron diamond strop for a truly shaving sharp / hair whittling blade. I’d shy away from power systems for non-professional use, manual systems are more forgiving, more versatile, more cost effective and produce awesome results.
my problem with lansky is that they give you a hole and and say eh its about 20 degrees. you have to make a conscious effort to make sure the rod doesnt move up or down. why cant they just make the hole a more precise fit or put it on a heim joint like the better ones.
@@dirtrider88 agreed
For my lanky and smith's similar type sharpners, I Take a hole punch in a plastic card like a gift card and using a small metal clip I position it exactly in the middle of the slot...no more sloppy movement. ...make 2, one for each side and you're good to go
For the past 10 years ive tried lots of stuff, but always go back to stones. I want to try a fixed angle system but ive got unlimited options with my 8x3 diamond stones. I sharpen hunting knives machetes, axes, chisels, folding knives etc... the diamond stones are just so fast thats the selling point for me
@@dirtrider88 I think it's a matter of cost/benefit. I'm betting there are fewer people who care about precision than necessary to justify the increase in cost/price. Obviously, I'm just guessing. For a lot of folks, "about 20 degrees" is good enough. For knife enthusiasts, it's frustrating.
This is seriously one of my new favorites in the knife sharpening videos of TH-cam. You go very in depth and give accurate (for the most part) information. Good job Pete.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
I am a very early amateur sharpener. I picked up the "humble" Lansky and used it for the first time and am very happy with the edge I was able to achieve. Not the mirror that I see on many knife channels, but close enough. Need more stones though.
the most likely reason is bc the lansky kits only go up to fine as far as i’m aware. i have a dmt version of a similar guided sharpener coming and it comes with extra fine and i ordered an extra extra fine (1000 grit and 8000 grit respectively)
Great video!
Most of my experience is from years ago with wet stones and a leather belt. That's just the way it was done. Practically everyone I knew did it the same way( i hope I'm not dating myself.).
I just recently purchased a Ken Onion work sharp with the variable speed and adjustable angles. I have used this unit twice so far. The first time I practiced with my wife's kitchen knives as guinea pigs. Had to remove lots of material to get rid of the damage, then eventually moved up to the strop. I found the angle guide a bit awkward, but the knife edge was satisfactory considering the original condition. The second time I used the sharpener, I removed the guide and just used it free hand as if I were using wet stones. I felt far more comfortable with this method. When I adjusted the lighting, I discovered that I could see the burr forming as I brought the knife across the belt. That was brilliant! I was a little excited and called my wife over to witness, she humoured as wife usually does. The result was the edge wasn't hair popping sharp, but I was close, and only on my second try.
I'm still a little nervous to try it on my good knives. So if you have any for me to practice on, send them over. Ha!
If all else fails, I still have my wet stones.
Thank you. It was very confusing for me when I was researching which sharpening systems to buy. Many of the drawbacks for each system are hard to discern but discovered quickly when using them.
I'm a chef and have used the Norton Tri stone for years. Sold the restaurant and can't seem to pick the skill back up...I hone straight razors and fabricate strops so I have some of the best stones available. I've seen a number of set ups and some are so tedious with lots of parts to get lost I think every guy should learn to sharpen their knives on stones and that includes me. Great video..
Tip for the Lansky: You can cut strips of sandpaper and use double sided tape to stick them to the yellow stone.
I’ve got the Lansky. Can I ask why you would do that and what are the benefits are? Thank you.
@@requiscatinpace7392 I use it 1000-2000 grit to get mirror finishes. I found it also works with leather strips and compound to strop as well.
@@requiscatinpace7392 probably the best practical use for it would be using lower grits on tough to sharpen steels. I wasn’t getting much accomplished with the black stone on my para 3 maxamet before I got diamond stones. Taped on some 120 grit ceramic sand paper and was able to bring the edge to apex in no time.
Thanks that’s a great idea!
@@surge3518 perfect, I’m re-profiling a D2 blade and get bored so it’s taking me forever. I know it’s not super steel but my attention span is minuscule! Thanks to you my rough grit has gone from 120 to 60 !
Thanks for the great video and tips mate! It's nice to have an Aussie knife nerd in our midst..👍
The lansky is still king with me, it keeps my knives nice and sharp.
I think the key is not letting your knife get too dull, maintain it and strop it.
My Lansky system is quite sufficient too imho. Affordable and easy to use..
I love the edge the lansky puts on a knife (vs my work sharp). Very consistent angle. I just don’t like the initial reprofiling of the factory edge. But once you set your angle (don’t do less than 30 degrees total for carbides like vanadium) it’s great. Guess I need that rough diamond stone.
I agree Max Power. If you maintain your edge, a resharpen should rarely be needed.
I have a lansky and I hate it could never get good results with it compared to freehanding I got a kme and it’s miles better then the lansky
I have a Lansky system. I use the extra coarse diamond, medium diamond, fine diamond, 1000 grit ceramic, 2000 grit ceramic, and leather hones with green compound and Flexcut Gold compound. I can typically reprofile a pocket knife to a 20 degree (actually about 18 degrees) angle and bring it to a mirror edge in 20 to 30 minutes. To resharpen a knife I have already processed takes about 10 to 15 minutes if it got pretty dull, 5 minutes otherwise. I have the standard clamp with no rubber in the jaws. I clamp blades with the lips of the clamp and don’t bother with tape or other padding. I have yet to scratch a blade. I replaced the red thumbscrew with a standard slot head bolt to allow more torque. Yes, the system seems rickety at first use but it works. I have yet to process a knife with it that wasn’t razor sharp at the end.
It really bugs me how seemingly nobody bothers to read the Work Sharp manual or even watch their videos.
I have not seen a single dude or gal on TH-cam use that thing correctly. Put the blade in the guide, THEN start the belt, simultaniously pull the blade back and stopp the belt with the tip still on it. Like that no tip is being rounded, no recurve is establisched.
Start and stop the belt every stroke? Seems kind of dumb then.
@@tomdickharryjane Yeah, not ruining your knives and not running the sharpener between strokes for no reason is so stupid...
I also like to keep my car running in the garage when I come home every night, having to turn my car on every morning is super stupid
@@twizz420 Yeah...
agreed. he hasnt used the correct technique when using the lanksy systeem either
I have had a lansky system for at least 20 years. You really know how to make that work. Thanks.
DB knives the master of chisel grinds👍🏻
Glass of Booze?
Roll up a BFO (big fat one) and have at it.
I bought the lansky 5 stone a few days ago. I absolutely love it. And since I can’t afford the stroping thingy I just use my leather belt and It works fucking wonders
Great, down-to-earth reviews of the sharpening systems. Maybe the most useful vid on the topic to home/hobbyist blade folks.
One of the best knife channels on this platform!
...for a better flat grip and security of flat grinds (KME), squeeze the jaws tips together with thumb & forefinger tight against the flats while tightening...the jaws spread in the back creating the correct grip angle on the blade...a tip from KME...just a thought...have a great week...
I bought into the hype on the Worksharp due to several youtubers that I follows gushing over it. I came to the exact same conclusion you did. Great for larger tools, way to easy to mess up smaller blades, even with practice. Went back to my Lansky. It does everything I need it to do (and always has). It's the system I learned to sharpen with, and the one I enjoy using the most. I don't mind how long it takes, I find it rather therapeutic. Incidentally, I agree with your assessment on necessary upgrades for the Lansky.
Agreed. It's fairly relaxing and meditative. Very "simple" task with actually a ton of hidden complexity and repetition, it's a great "chop wood carry water" activity.
I got the Lansky a few months back and have put some of the best edges on my Knives. I got the standard one (coarse,med,fine) and added the extra fine stone separately with my order, if you get what i mean.
Just found out you can get a stropping, stone?, instead of stone material, you get a piece of leather attached to the block the stones' usually attached too. Hopefully my friendly knife stockist will have them in soon days.✌🏼🇬🇧👍🏼
FYI there is now available for the KME System a smaller jaw specifically designed for pen knives. They are the "Pen Knife Pro Jaws" and cost $24.95 US. They are for smaller knives & allow for lower bevel angles as well.
4 years ago I thought I was a knife guy when I got a Kizylar Biker X in D2
And I was totally fine using freehand diamond and stones to get my sharp edges on things.
Recently I got my first Spyderco knife, the Caribbean plain leaf edge, then right after the Police 4 in K390, I am now uneasy about the prospect of sharpening them with my collection of nice stones freehandedly, but I will try when the time comes and see what I end up with, if that fails this video is great for guiding me in the direction of a good system that will be a bit more precise with greater ease.
Appreciate all the great knife and other content ! 🍉🥝🔪
US
CA
Ced is true educational gift to humanity , period.
I learned to sharpen by hand holding the stone in my left hand and knife in my right. I use diamond hones and finish with a very hard Buck stone. I use my diamond to sharpen my carbide drill bits. When I get a really messed up edge and don't feel like spending 20 minutes trying to fix totally dull knives I use my 1x42 belt grinder with a 220 silicon carbide wet belts to put a properly formed bevel and then back to diamond to finish the blade. Of course I make knives too, so it's not like I don't have practice on the belt grinder.
I bought the worksharp, can't say I'm a big fan. I used to sharpen with the paper wheel system which I prefer over the worksharp.
I just got a Wen in yesterday (Tormek copy) I bought Tormek accessories (knife holder, angle finder, stone dresser and stone truing tool) and all in I'm a little over $300. I haven't sharpened with the Wen yet but put the stone wheel on an plugged it in and everything seemed to run incredibly smooth and quiet. I wasn't sure when I ordered it because some people complained about alot of wobble on the wheels. I think I lucked out. Everyone says stone truing tool is a must with these type of sharpeners. Time will tell if it will hold up. I figure if it craps out I will bite the bullet and get a tormek but initial impression is for $130 the Wen looks to be pretty well built. I do like that with the flip of a switch you can change wheel direction instead of having to turn the machine around
Your grandfather sounds like he was a badass sharpener and woodsmith. Awesome video...enjoying your channel more and more.
*Pete:* "This Tormek is the most expensive, at around..."
*Wicked Edge:* "Hold my $100 beer..."
Tormek t4 is 499$ Canadian, the t8 is 899$, who cares about $100
@@russellbrooker2122 I have way more than $899 in my Wicked Edge with the small angle adapter, Chosera stones, etc.. . I don't have the $100 beer, though LOL!
$899 is the base price. $250-$350 per wheel there's three diamond wheels a carbon wheel and a $430 japanese wheel, jigs and accessories on average are ~$50 a piece. It can cost a small fortune to get the whole kit but most people just need the machine and maybe a diamond wheel to get around having to true the wheel.
They're in the same league as each other for different reasons.
Super extensive video, most helpful and I can see that their is lots to learn, thanks Pete
Good video. Couple of things you might find of interest...
Tormek: Tormek has stated the SB stone won’t come to the T-4. The diamond stones (coarse & fine) for the T-2 will fit the T-4... however, Tormek says to use them dry (because they won’t test them wet... if you or anyone tries, use something like Honerite Gold, or they will rust). They haven’t said whether or not they’ll make the diamond stones for the T-4 similar to the ones for the larger machine.
WorkSharp: I’m sure you know that WS makes a much better sharpener now. In fact, the WS with the Blade Grinding Attachment (they call it their Elite Knife Sharpening package, or something like that) will easily give your Tormek a run for the money, on knives anyway. The old WorkSharp you have is no comparison to the upgraded system, and doesn’t have the issues you described. The advantages to the WS package, and disadvantage of the Tormek, is that it will handle a wider variety of shapes/sizes that knives now come in, it is usually faster, and easier to setup and use.
cbwx34 yeah the KO Worksharp with the grinder attachment by all accounts is awesome. I had a fellow sharpen my rex121 knife with one and he got great results
I'm hooked on the worksharp. The 20° angle you are showing is mainly for kitchen knives. The adapter you didn't show has the 25° angle for hunting knives and such and it also has the scissor sharpening attachment. I think you were trying to show how the worksharp operates but obviously you were using it from the wrong side. And the blade is placed on the angle before you turn it on and you are suppose to stop it when the end of the knife comes to the belt so as not to round over the point. The worksharp does it all and does a great job!
Hi speed stools sound pretty painful. Love watching your videos as entertainment while I fumble around with my sharpening efforts.
I got the Lansky Blade Medic from Blade HQ.
No Pro Shop precision, but module works magic if got hands. DIAMOND rod carbide blocks ceramic cylinders 😅 and serrated sharpener too.. I had to spend over $300. I GOT 2 F3 2 carbon fiber ti s35vn. Nice for plating fruits❤🎉😊
I have 3 large Arkansas stones 1 soft 1 hard and 1 hard black. Each are 1"×8"×12" and with these stones I can easily put a mirror finish on any blade. I know that everyone has their preferences but I would like to ask you to use a hard black or translucent Arkansas stone followed with only a few passes on a strope. If you really want to see that finish do it on a larger flat piece of steel. It will take longer but the finish will amaze you.
Instead of waterstones I now use the Trend 300/1000 grit diamond stone followed with honing on ceramic rods set at 15 degrees in a wooden holder. This setup is fast, long lasting, and pretty hard to screw up.
Ken Onion Edition, and Blade Griding Attachment, for Larger Knives,
I agree, I think its very hard to beat 👌🏻
Yup. I use the Ken Onion Work Sharp blade grinding attachment. It is great at what I use it for; cleavers, tools, blenders, scissors, large knives and blade repairs. I use DMT diamond plates for my super steel pocket knives. I use Norton water stones for my kitchen knives including the Spydiechef.
I never realized stone sharpening was so revered. Until a few years ago, I figured most knife enthusiasts had some stones. I was blown away when I read that some people sending their knifes to the manufacturers to get resharpened.
well when benchmade does it for free along with replacing anything that needs to be replaced (also for free) ill send it to them and practice my skills on my cheaper knives.
@@dirtrider88 so sad
@@russellbrooker2122 whats so sad?
Excellent video Pete!! I find my kme films last much longer if I unload them. I wash them with a soapy sponge. Also, knife center has decent overseas shipping, so I wait for them to have em in stock (they never are) then get a supply. Kme DOES have a pen knife jaw tool, though I never tried it.
I sharpen for $. I have a tormek t4, worksharp ken onion with blade grinder attachment & a kme with the full set of diamond stones and kangaroo strop. What gives me the sharpest edges? The kme followed by the worksharp, and coming in last, the tormek. The worksharp is my go to, to quickly raise and knock off a burr. The tormek with standard stone is poor at reprofiling, it takes forever... The kme is my most enjoyed method, it's pretty fast when you use the beast or the 100, and the edges I can get are insane. Very sharp. Lately, the tormek sits unused. But I still like it, and appreciate the edge it gives, but I usually have to strop by hand at the end to get the kind of sharpness I like.
thanks for this...I was waiting for another q&a to ask how you would rank the sharpening systems.
Great video, how do you feel about using lansky to sharpen in one direction only?
Great video very helpful. I got the good Japanese whetstones... although just because you got the good stones doesn't mean anything, they are just blocks of potential unless you have the skills and muscle memory to hold a consistent angle. I'm getting better, knives will shave hair but my edges are not even and perfect. I'm itching to get a KME, I just wish they able to do those longer 8"-10" chef knives which I have quite a few of. Loved the comprehensive video although as I've watched many of your vids most had been covered at some stage or another. Cheers
Nice thorough job as always
The sharpening systems out there are really good. My only problem is I can raise a burr on most knives in 30 seconds with Shapton glass stones (500 grit). Then I spend another 5 minutes polishing and I'm done. Screaming sharp in 5 min. (actually hair popping sharp). Admittedly, it took some time and frustration to get the muscle memory to get consistent results but it's just SO fast and effective that I have a hard time breaking out the sharpening systems anymore. The glass stones are definitely a large investment but worth every penny.
You can also geek out and run the grits up too 16,000-30,000 for grins. Normally, I only go up to 2000 grit on a regular basis but going higher is fun sometimes and the stones do it very quickly.
Cool overview of your various systems and good timing. Although I've gotten pretty decent with my Smith's Arkansas TRI-HONE kit over the years, I'd like to step it up a bit. The Lansky Deluxe Diamond system and a few finishing stones sounds like the way to go for me.
zero2three1 I strongly recommend against buying a lansky I would just save up for a kme I bought a lansky and hate it
I know it's kinda janky so I held off getting it for years! And you're probably right about getting the KME. But, I don't sharpen my blades too often, maybe once or twice a month. Probably still worth it...
zero2three1 yeah I would say it’s still worth it when you get a good system that you like you’ll probably sharpen your knives a lot more that’s what happend when I got decent at freehanding
Does the KME do a better job of evenly holding a full flat ground blade than Lansky? I bought a Lansky probably 20 years ago and was discouraged to find that it wasn't really able to evenly hold a full flat ground blade. (which most of my knives have)It's pretty much mothballed now.
I have a Ken Onion Worksharp, which is OK. The problem with it is that it uses the side of the blade as an angle reference, instead of the line through the center of the blade. So for example, it would give a very different angle on a scandi Mora compared to a wide flat ground blade like a Spydiechef. Also, it's very hard to hold the angle steady when I get out to the tip and most of the blade is off the guide.
For the Tormek, how do you follow the curve of a blade? Is that part of it still guided, or does it become kind of freehand?
One popular system missing here is a the Sharpmaker. That's the one I like and use. It's so simple and so well designed. The ceramic stones and coarse diamond ones don't seem to ever wear out. You should check one out. It's not guided, but since all that's required is to keep the knife vertical, it's pretty reliable anyhow.
Hallo, would you consider testing the knife sharpeners that are available on Aliexpress?
Best bang for buck is $80 Worksharp, 1st belt is 80 grit for tools, profiling and removing knicks and edge chips. Second is main belt used for general knife sharpening and gives a fine edge. 3rd is used to hone knives, sharpen serrations and for quick touch-ups that can be reused many times with abrasive paste applied to belt when it loses grit.
Ray Odgers I’ve heard a lot of negatives about it
I bought a Edge Pro Clone from EBay for $19.00 about 3yrs ago and never looked back . That is a Big price difference. I used the Chinese stones it came with for practice and bought the good Edge Pro stones for about $16.00 ea for my good knives , the system works great , I reprofile all my knives with it, and then use my Spyderco Sharpmaker for touch-ups .
Bro I do the same thing with the 2 systems lol. Except I bought the edge pro but I've also used the Chinese version and it works too
Great stuff Pete. Have you considered getting the convening rod for the KME? Could be another edge retention area to explore. (I know you did this with the Worksharp but I’d be interested in seeing how a high quality convex edge performs vs a v edge).
In the KME section it's pretty clear you are also grinding on the jaws as well move that knife out some.
The Smith's system has the same issue. The Smith's only goes to 20 degrees, but the jaws still catch the stones on some knives no matter what you do. I wouldn't buy another one. I would invest in a KME system though.
I have the Lansky, KME and the WORKSHARP pro - if you need mirrors, KME otherwise, for a toothy edge, my Lansky is exceptional (not fancy) by absolutely excellent! Every knife I have has a hair popping edge from my very basic Lansky.
Yeh the WorkSharp? Just a few tips that I have found that make the WorkSharp work really well. 1. You are supposed to let off of that trigger when the tip is halfway through the belt. Not ride all the way through. That's why you are burning your tips off. 2. I know in a previous video you had said that you use the 20 degree setting for pretty much all your knives. Kitchen and work knives. That's a no no too. Gotta follow the directions specifically to get that sharpener to work the way it's supposed to man. Leaving it on that setting will eat your work knife blades up cause that's too shallow of an angle bro. 3. You are moving a bit to fast with that pocket knife as well. Gotta slow it down just a bit. No, it won't get blades as sharp as a pro using a superior sharpener. But you will go through less belts and less blade wear if you follow the specific directions. And that machine will get knives super sharp (sharp enough to shave hair off of your body) if you do EXACTLY what the directions say brotha. Not trying to be an ass or a know it all. Just trying to help sir. Ty for the vids tho.
Love my KME. There was a learning curve and you can mess up an edge or two but it’s an absolutely amazing product made by an amazing company. Don’t know if you have used customer service yet but KME has been absolutely amazing. That is just as big a part as the actual system for me.
Anthony Albino yup found that out definitely is way more of a learning curve then I thought
Explain? There are people who are going to buy these systems so it's much more beneficial to explain than to just mention that there is a learning curve of some sort.
Hey thanks for the vid. How would you say the Spyderco sharpmaker or Lanksy turnbox stack up to these? Would you say they are 40 or 60 percent as good an edge? Or not even close? I am fairly new to the hobby and use a turnbox. With a little work I can get a hair shaving edge but I wouldn't call it a mirror.......your comments are welcome.
Sharpton 1k, 2k, 5k is a great set for about $150 in the US. Add an Atoma 140 for flattening and fixing chips(I use a Shapton 320 for chips and 400 Atoma for flattening) and a decent stone holder and you're set. At under $220 you can sharpen anything for a quite long time. Do I have an edge pro and clamp systems with all sorts of stones, compounds and strops? Yup. But a lot of my sharpening is done on those 3 stones and a homemade kangaroo strop with diamond spray.
The reason you're having issues with the knife tips on the Worksharp is because you are using it incorrectly. The directions states you are to stop the belt BEFORE the tip passes the belt. You are supposed to stop the belt with the tip in the middle of the belt. Then lift the knife and start the belt again for the next pass.
Knife Supplies Australia is an Australian distributor for KME and also sells Lansky products
I have been told that the T2 Diamond wheels will fit the T4, and you can also get CBN wheels called the Tornado Jr. for the T4. I just got a T4 a few months ago, and I think it is the best way to sharpen knives, as well as being the fastest.
Check out the wicked edge system. Good results
I cook for a living so sharp tools are how I pay for my house and feed my family. And have many, many hours behind a stones. I love Norton stones. I have ones that are at least 15 years old and still going strong. Great quality at great prices. For me and my tools, Norton is the way to go. I always tell people if you want to learn to sharpen with stones, buy a $20 (or less) kitchen knife (pairing or similar) and practice with it to get your technique down. This practice will lessen the anxiety when it comes time to put your prized possession to the grind. Good luck!
Robert Morano Yes, I like my Norton stones for carbon steel. I use them for my straight razors. I put those on my face!
Ever get the Worksharp Ken onion edition with blade grinder? It’s quite good for the price. I use it on cheaper stuff
OMG I had no Idea my phone could be used to measure angles so accurately! I knew their was a reason I subscribed to this guy.
Also I just found out I have been putting 14 Degree angle on my dog biscuit steel knife, no wonder it dies immediately when I try to cut nylon cord with it.
You are correct that the work sharp will damage the tips of pocket knives, because you using it incorrectly. You are supposed to stop the belt when the knife tip is half way across the knife tip. Pulling the knife all the way through the moving belt tends to round the tip of the blade. I have the Ken Onion version of the Work Sharp, and it is much better, in that it lets you dial in any angle you want.
Very helpful review. However, I would suggest showing and keeping onscreen the make & model during each section, to remind viewers which one you're describing. After the first couple, it's easy to forget.
Real cool video man
You forgot to include sandpaper hahahahha
I'm using old stones, and 2000 grit sandpaper on top of glass(because I'm a broke student hahaha)
Soooooo which system would you choose to put a mirror edge of exactly 13° on a cpm-M4 steel blade knife?
Thank you kindly good sir
if I didn't want to buy a tormek, which bench grinder comes best set up to sharpen tools and knives?
I’m looking at getting the Lansky system. Mainly for my pocket knives. I’m on somewhat of a budget. Would you recommend going with the standard diamond system then adding on the ultra fine and sapphire polishing hones? Or do I go for the deluxe non diamond version? A lot of my blades are D2 and couple of BDN1 and sv30
The original Worksharp I found worked well for pocket knives, though you have to be standing or at least I did to keep the right angle while pulling the blade through. The Worksharp Ken Onion on the other hand worked best with larger blades using the flat blade guide (still have to stand). As for Whet stones. Spyderco seems to have come out with the best bang for the buck with their ceramic stones. Least expensive of the sharpening items to buy that works is the Speedy Sharp. Rips metal away and hard on knives but does give you a sharp edge in just a minute or two if your good at angles and strop. The key word is Strop. Know how to strop and have one, saves sharpening and ripping metal away.
I just ordered a couple good diamond stones for bench sharpening. I am very split on the KME, I like the system, but I also feel it`s overpriced for the materials you get (I´ll talk about that in my video on the KME). The TSPROF (which is like one of the competitors to the KME) is definitly a nicer made system in terms of fit and finish, I think it is about the same price as the KME, tho the KME has the better stones.
I think I`ll end up being a Benchstone sharpener someday, I just like doing it and I am pretty good at it, actually recently sharpened a couple of axes and hatches free hand for some friends and did very well :D
German Survivalist a kme will probably work better for most knives under about 7 inches though a tsprof will also have a bit of a hard time with a full flat grind
@@bp-hx9ts Yes. I have a KME (and WE) and the KME has no problems with FFG and is perfect knives under 7 or 8 inches. Plus, it's so compact I can fit it in my desk drawer.
Lenny yeah great system I don’t think a tsprof has a stone thickness compensator either
Hi. How many knives can you sharpe with a standard tormek stone? As average
That blue, red and white bag in the background I think every Aussie owns, no idea where they come from
As I am based in Australia, would you recommend buying the KME from knifesupplies in Australia(although I could not see your kit on their site) or directly from KME in the US?Thanks
Im from West Australia and you can get kme products from knifesupplies.com.au but for that price man I would honestly go for ken onion work sharp system. Its superior to the one tested here
My progression of sharpening systems: Spyderco Sharpmaker (takes some time to get the right technique down but works decently), Lansky (hated it, having to hold it in one hand, overall I just found it a pain and returned it), KME (love it. Started with the basic kit with the stand then added the 50 and 100 grit stones, 6 and 3 micron lapping films, and recently got a kangaroo strop with 1.5 cbn emulsion that I've yet to try.) I can get a mirror polish with the films so I'm looking forward to how much more mirrory the strop + emulsion will get me.
I'm a big fan of the Edgepro system personally. I feel like it's the sweet spot between hand sharpening and a clamped system like the KME. It's the same basic idea as the KME though.
Great video though!
James G. I’m thinking about getting a hapstone m2 or v8 when it comes out there like an edge pro but better
@@bp-hx9ts Those seem like a good option too. I looked at the Hapstones when I bought me EP professional, and the only reason I chose the EP instead is that I felt like they were the original fixtured system of that style and I wanted to support that. The one thing I would caution you about, is that no system automatically turns you into an amazing knife sharpener, there is always a learning curve. I probably sharpened 10 or so cheap knives before I was satisfied enough with my results to move to some of my nicer knives, and after sharpening about 100 knives I feel like I'm still improving.
James G. Oh definitely I’m a bit of a novice with my kme onley had it for a month have sharpened about 50 knives though there is way more of a learning curve then I thought I’m used to freehand though so that may be why and I understand why you would go for the original I feel like hapstone innovated enough that it’s it’s own thing and it makes vast improvements
Igbo Thunder I would go for a m2 or wait for the v8 it’s coming out in 2019
Igbo Thunder yup plus hapstone gives extra innovations like there magnets the m2 has a vertical blade support tons of add ons the v7 can use any stone etc I have a kme i plan on getting a hapstone v8 or maybe m2 that with freehand stones and maybe a tormeck t4 is basically the best setup I can think of
Some knives (Benchmade in particular), specify NOT to use a power sharpener for sharpener. I just bought a Lansky knockoff that I’m going to experiment with.
Stools with a coarse finish are rarely high-speed
EWWWWWWWWWW
@@omniryx1 26:08 XD I was looking for this in the comments!
Can ya get the WorkSharp Adjust and talk about how lansky already made this system just less gimmicky?
I just bought one ..it works fine but has some silly design flaws I believe they do on purpose. Would be interesting to see your opinion.
Official name change approved: shed = The Knife Lab
Awesome video, thanks!
If you had the option of buying only one electric sharpening machine to help you open a small knife sharpening side-business, would you go for the Tormek T2, Tormek T4, Tru-Hone, or something else? Any pros and cons of each?
I’m looking to sharpen knives only at this stage and not scissors or tools. Will be targeting restaurants and cafes. I have a very small spare room in my apartment, so I need something practical as I don’t have a lot of space. Speed of sharping in minutes is crucial, and of course quality of sharpening as important. Thank you!
I brought a chinese clone off aliexpress of the KME system with diamond stones for under $90 before watching this i didnt even know it was a clone it just looked like a good system. Getting really excited to try it out and get my kitchen knifes to a nice finish as i can no longer keep them sharp with a honing steel.
Perhaps your finest video I've seen. 👍
What’s better Worksharp precision sharpener OR lansky?
Great video!! Enjoyed your review of these systems. Nice to see you doing these type of reviews. Lots of helpful info. Thanks!
Hi. Smitty here. At time 21:06 I saw all of your stones/hones/strops with dark spots. Here's what I found and use once everything is a bit dirty... Go get some white vinyl pencil erasers. Please do not use this trick with the 70 grit or the 120 grit. The lowest stone I do this on is the 280 grit. So, from 280, 600, 1000 Super Sapphire(2000 grit) and 2 leather strops. 1 with green 2500 grit and 1 with red 4000 grit.
Please trust in what tell you. I use the pencil erasers to make everything look like new stuff.
The fact still remains that I can grind a bevel thin and then any edge I put on it will outperform a mirror polished edge from any system, whether it was sharpened via stones or a system.
I use the simple lansky kit and I still can get stupid sharp razor edges. Maybe I'll try out the others. Great video.
Same but I can only get a foggy mirror polish on my knives which bothers me sometimes
really can't believe you use that worksharp so much....the junk plastic guides really made me toss mine in the sell on ebay pile!! shabazz sends electric thru my ears...and hands like a 12 yr old girl!
For like 6 months I've been trying to decide which sharpening system to get I have an edge pro but have had terrible luck with it of all the systems if you had to choose just one for mainly sharpening Spyderco folders which one would you choose
You should try a ken onion work sharp
Great Video as usual! In your opinion is the tormek a good solution for someone not wanting a polished edge, on a range of knives from kitchen to small EDC and Traditional knives? or would you recommend the KME? Have you any experience with the Wicked Edge? if so how do you think it compares with the others?
Many many thanks. Brilliant video! Answered every one of my questions perfectly. Thank you so much again! :-)
So how do you sharpen the entire blade evenly of a clip point with the Tormek?
Great video thanks. I've got a lansky but your review has helped me decide to bite the bullet and invest in a kme system, probably the base plus then pick up the add ons as I go. Quick question about the lansky though.. I tend to end up with a wider bevel on one side than the other, any tips on correcting that? Many thanks.
With this Worksharp can i sharp a full convex edge?
And here I am with a 30 dollar fallkniven sharpener I but on a 2x4 and held in placed with nails along long with a leather belt to get the hair popping sharpness.
Good stuff! I’m gravitating more and more to the Tormek, but it will be a while to budget for one. Is there any system good for sharpening recurve blades? I own a few and don’t know how to approach sharpening one. Thank you!
Very informative! I enjoyed the reviews and they seemed very honest and accurate
For what it's worth i'll give MY 2 CENTS..
I have a Lansky and Whetstones and I love both of them, I suggest that you have a basic Whetstone set because it's a basic still that every knife owner should have.
I suggest having both.
Have you looked at the Wen which is basically a clone of the Tormek?
Lansky, KME, Hapstone, etc probably all end up giving the result that the stone you use will allow
Great video, I've been using the KME from the early days prior to "Full Deluxe Kit ". The current kit is comprised of all the accessories and the lapping films. The Deluxe Kit has 50, 100, 140, 300, 600, 1500 grit diamond stones. I will typically re-profile a new knife starting at 100 grit diamond then finish off with the full lapping film up to .1 micron 60,000 grit. The excellent part is that the stones are all of the same thickness. I check the angle when switching to the lapping films.
I had to go to the diamond stones to deal with my first knife in ZDP189 (Spyderco Endura). You just can't cut the very hard steel with anything less. (in a reasonable time). The KME Delux Kit is what I would buy today for my folding knives. $299 and you are good to go. The lapping films are optional, a good strop is all you need. My Spyderco Endra has had 2 edges, the factory edge and the re-profile on the KME. The blade needs a stropping every few months and is by far the sharpest EDC blade I have ever owned.
I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO BECAUSE... I am looking at a better solution for larger blades in the kitchen. I am a "C" student best case with the bench stones and really have a desire to get the same results for our kitchen knives that I get with the KME. I am looking at TSPROF ($800 Yikes) OR The Hapstone R1 with the diamond stones for $499. I am leaning toward the Hapstone R1 because it will take my KME stones and films.
I have a feeling that the KME will still get the most use because it is smaller and can be deployed quickly and put away fast. The other systems are larger and will likely live in my garage. Setup time, mess and hassle are a big factor in getting things done.
The other thing that gets very little discussion is the fact that clamp systems allow you to use your "dominant" hand for both sides of the knife. Think about how well you are able to write with your less dominant hand? This is what prevents me from looking at the Edge Pro system or the Hapstone R7.
Thank you very much for the video Pete.
I kno the newer work sharps you can control the speed of the belt, not just zero to full blast