Just installed the Juinteck M1 hydraulic calipers on my Rad Rover 5. The simplicity of the installation was a breeze. Your video was easier to follow than the instructions that come with the brakes. Keep the videos coming. I thoroughly enjoy them.
Thank you! Upgraded my Hiboy p6 and it made a world of difference. Even with the stock pads. I was able to use the existing extenders and saved the cable crimp to reuse. I went with the X-TECH Hydraulic Calipers.
I’m a Mechanical Engineer and new to E-bikes how you opened up in this Vlog is exactly why I watch your Vlogs I don’t feel like a dumb ass listening to you, but most of these other Vloggers over explain simple things and I leave dumber I feel lmao. Thx again you explain yourself very well and it all makes sense cheers mate 🤘
For those of you who are first timers, let's this be a lesson for you. Please retain the old brake line holder bolt unless you're confident that you can run the brake cable through without fraying the cable. Me being a moron took the cable off and try to run it through the new bolt and frayed the cable. I thought it wouldn't matter, but it had destroyed the brake cable. Now, new cables are being ordered and hopefully getting installed properly like this video. Lesson learned for me, at least.
Another good video. I think I’ll take a pair, or even 3 pairs (I have 3 Radrovers 2017) of those hydraulic brakes . But now I’m going to hold you to your word of making videos of the Radrover faster. My personal areas of interest is a 52V /35amp controller that is plug and play with the radrover, kt-lcd8h color display, real 750 watt Bafang motor upgrade and a 52V / 30ah battery pack in a triangle bag that is plug and play compatible and fits 2017 Radrover. Nobody is making good step by step videos of upgrading the Radrover. These brakes are a good start. Please help us Radrover enthusiasts. We are mostly made up of the older bicyclists that enjoy modding and accessorizing our Rads way more than the Sondors crowd.
I remember as a kid getting a hand me down 10 sp road bike with disc brake. I thought I was King of the world. Especially since it was the mid eighties. Bikes sure have come a long way.
I am new to E biking and have found your videos most helpful. I want to upgrade my stock brakes and this video is exactly what i needed to know as I was a bit distressed at the conversion cost as you mentioned. This is a great fix!! Thanks!!
I have hydraulic brakes on my favorite machine... came installed and finding where to put brake fluid in is the aggravating point because the lines are all wrapped in a mesh wrap but guess will have to remove the mesh when it needs fluid in time... any way I do love the 750 watt Bafang motor on the ebike and the brakes are a neccessary thing as fast as it goes. I love the machine and I bought a Luckeep and Suzuki partneered with them in the electrical stuff and has a really nice Samsung battery in the machine. I like how well the hydraulic brakes work compared to my e-bike with mechanical brakes. Wish you the best and thanks for the video on how to do this stuff... will help for finding where everything is on my machine and I'm sure the fluid fill is under all that mesh wrap on my machine. Beautiful machine, spent the morning looking a lost cow that was finally found dead in a ditch... being a cowboy on an e-bike today... strange how the world changes...
I did the same, replaced the mechanical calipers with a hydraulic caliper actuated by a cable. But the braking power is really bad. In fact very low braking power compared to mechanical brakes. And even worse is the lever is very hard. Finally installed a full hydraulic brake system with fluid tubes. And WOW ! The lever is smooth as butter with only 3 fingers and the braking power is EXCELLENT !
@@Area13ebikes I have a concern about the volume of fluid in the caliper and heat disbursement. We live in a hilly neighborhood and some grades are long and somewhat steep. Is this system more susceptible to boiling the fluid than a full system with fluid in the reservoir and lines? Thank you.
@Area13ebikes do you sell the brakes yourselves and if so are they still available? I own an amyet v9 g60 ebike and need to upgrade the brakes but do not want to go full hydraulic.
Good information in the video. But one thing that was not mentioned was making sure you put the washers back in the same order they came off. My first try I was rubbing on top of the rotor because the washer was not installed correctly.
I'm retired. Non mechanic. It took me 30 minutes total for front and rear. So Kyle, maybe you can do it in 5, but I tried and couldn't. (;-) Noticed an immediate improvement on my new Crusader. Glad I won't have to bleed brakes!!!
I bought this conversion for my Himiway. Works perfectly. I also have a Magicycle which I bought a hydraulic caliper kit off Amazon, works really bad. Don't be fooled by a low price alternative, it will not stop your Ebike like the Juintech M1 hydraulic calipers! They are the best and safest you can purchase.
Hi Bill, have the himiway (cruiser) too ...curious of you kept the Himiway adapters or used the ones provided with the brakes. LBS used the ones from the bike and the rotor is only covered by 70% of the pad. I just realized there were ones that came with the brakes as well, and don't know if there is a difference.
@@BillTheHawk Thanks! Looks the same as the video and my LBS did the install. It could be the way it is and the type of pad I used to replace the ones that came stock with the brake.
Thanks for this quick demo. I've got a Blix Packa and I feel like I'm constantly fighting/adjusting the brakes. Was going to do a pad change but after watching this I bit the bullet and have ordered this kit. Can't wait to get them on the bike.
Hi John, have the himiway (cruiser) too ...curious of you kept the Himiway adapters or used the ones provided with the brakes. LBS used the ones from the bike and the rotor is only covered by 70% of the pad. I just realized there were ones that came with the brakes as well, and don't know if there is a difference.
@@johnphillips8088 yeah i switched out the pads to some shimano organic versions, and now my brakes are making a grinding sound, but the brakes still work. Went to my LBS and they said its due to a bulge being created at the top of the pad cause the rotor isn't being fully covered. After watching some videos noticed the mounts that came with the bike, so dont know if that would be the missing link. I am not that mechanically inclined so was curious before I went back to my LBS, feel like I am border-lining harassing them at this point :).
@@Gloov actually I had very few miles on bike before I changed the brakes, and they were getting better on the stock breaks as the pads wore in. Then when I changed over to the hydraulic kit. I have again not ridden the bike a whole lot. So the pads are probably still wearing in… good luck, be safe. John
It was nice to meet you today. I just finished installing my calipers. Btw, Maria’s was an excellent suggestion for lunch. I highly approve of their Crab Enchiladas!
I just ordered those.... and found this video.... I can't wait for more stopping power, I just put on dual pull brakes and that was better than single pull.... but I'm going hydro! Lol
Beautiful review! Simple and informative! I ordered a Sondors Fold X. These hydraulic breaks would be a sweet upgrade - that and a new seat post with shocks
Couple of things, these are hybrid hydraulic calipers, they don't self adjust as they use a cable pull, the pad wear adjuster should be at the bottom cable end of the caliper, a screw pulls the pads in.
I asked a question on the website regarding how it does on long downhill declines, is it possible to dry out the mineral oil etc. he should do a video refilling the resovoir/bleeding and if we can use baby oil to save costs. my last concern is where i can buy metallic/ceramic pads for em
Matthew F He sells everything for the brakes, like you i wouldn’t no how to do the oil or the pads, that’s why I’ve decided to let our local bike shop install them, if oil or pads need replacing bike shop would no what to do.
Just install hybrid brakes...cable actuated hydraulic brake calipers. Zoom sell these, and you don't have to change out your brake levers for the hydraulic ones that do not have the electronic cut off. Just use the regular ebike cable pull levers with the cut off sensor and attach them to the hydraulic brake calipers. Got them on my bike...😁
I recently got NCM Moscow, and it comes with mechanical disc brakes, was thinking of changing them to hydraulic and this seems to be a better solution.
@@Area13ebikes So I got this from you guys recently, maybe a week, and finally got the time to put it on the bike. I was trying to make the gap between the brake pads bigger, now there is literally no space on either side. I see there is a mechanism to loosen it, but the screw only unscrews itself from the long bolt if I spin it counter clockwise, what gives? Is it defective? I will test the other one out tomorrow and see if I can loosen it, if not I will have to take a plier to it.
Love these, much easier pull, stops great, don't know if better stopping but the ease of pull is dramatic and I like the easy adjust, just turn a screw. Thanks Kyle!
You are supposed to have conical washers on both sides of the caliper. Without them, when you tighten, the caliper cannot articulate to the rotor fully. It only sort of aligns. That's why those washers are that weird shape.
We have 2 Lectric XPs on order and I'll be pulling a Schwinn pet trailer with our 15lb. dog...and having to stop with that extra weight! I'm gonna get these calipers for my bike right away.
If your bike won't run and you get an error code , check your brake levers aren't badly adjusted and hitting the cut out switch. I adjust my brakes at the brake end.
Thank you for all your advice. Two questions: 1. Will these calipers fit on the Ecotric Fat Tire? It looks like the same bike. 2. Have you heard of the Xtech HB 100
Great idea, but I would caution against using this on the rear brake of an e-tricycle because it appears to be normal practice to only brake one rear wheel. Normally the left side freewheels, and the reason is that unless it does, going around corners would require a differential gear setup. Heavy braking could slew the cycle sideways.
actually I would think the hydraulic brakes would be easier to control. or by a trike from Lectric, as it comes with a differential as standard equipment.
This seems like what I should do but on top of that maybe new disk breaks because I’m pretty sure mine have warping from the start even. I can feel it when I break too especially in the front. Can’t adjust the pads in any efficient way to not have some sort of rub at some points in the rotation either. But good thing is I did get them to stop me pretty decently so as far as safety goes I should be okay for now but I also do not want that rubbing resistance when I’m not using the breaks.
Buy a rotor alignment tool, will save you that issue, spin wheel, mark the first point of pad touch and the last, then slide tool in the middle of marks and pull to the side away from where it touch, i had to do it so a misaligned wheel hub setting my rotor off line.
This is a really cool solution to a somewhat non-existent problem. I can understand why someone with arthritis would need it, but they probably wouldn't be riding a bike anyway. Or maybe they would, since it's an e-bike. Hmmm, interesting. In any case, I looked for these and they seem to be very rare or expensive, or both. Still a neat idea though.
The problem is hydraulic brakes that are easy to install on all ebikes. Many don't have a solution as ebike specific brakes need to have the right plug for the brake cutoff. This fixes that. As far as price, $150 for a pair of hydraulic brakes seems pretty reasonable to me. I stock them at BoltonEbikes.com.
My front bottom adjustment knob was so tight that when attempting to loosen it through bottom plastic nut came off. Great concept but they seem cheaply made. I'll be putting the Tektros back on and don't think I'll be buying again. Super disappointed because they did perform well until adjustments were needed.
With regular hydraulic brakes, you need less hand pressure than mechanical brakes to get the same level of stopping power. Is this true of these cable-actuated brakes as well? I don't necessarily feel like I need more stopping power than the mechanical brakes, but I have some hand issues, so if these brakes require less hand pressure to yield the same level of stopping power, there would be value in that for me. TIA for any thoughts.
Jake that's an excellent question. Yes, they are easier to stop with than standard mechanical brakes. I would however say a 100% hydraulic setup has an easier lever pull as you don't have the friction of the steel cable involved.
@@jakelondon - Hi Jake - compression-less cables and housing is the way to go. Jagwire is the more known brand but a step up is the Yokozuna is the best. Many reports of this cable and house being superior to the Jagwire compressionless system. Also, Yokozuna as a premium caliper like the Juin referenced here... but at a much higher price point. The Juin is a good way to go and I think the compressionless cable housing would be helpful to your hands. Good luck! (I realize my comment if two-years too late... but just in case it helps)
Hi, i was looking for something like this, but i need for a Etrike Addmotor M-340 ? so i would need 3 hydraulic brake calipers ok, one front and 2 rear calipers.
I have an evox city I went to the bike shop the guy was telling me to put hydraulic brakes and with the discs and pads it was 380.00$ My car brakes were half that price 😄
can you still call a hydraulic brake if you are still using mechanical cables instead of hydraulic tubes? I presume that the performance is half as good as fully hydraulic brakes
I do wonder if because the calipers I have are the kind where one pad moves that it causes disk warp by pushing on the disk until it’s grasped by both pads.
Why did they used to spec out hard drives for 200,000 hours MTBF, but only give you a five year warranty? How many licks does it take to get to the tootsie roll center of a tootsie pop. The world may never know.
Can any one answer this question anyone and give an answer so I was going down my big hill with my kiddo in her trailer hitting my back brake to stop at a stop sign and my brake line popped out can I put it back in and if so how or do I have to buy new line
My bike has a brake pad hydraulic hybrid (atheist that's what my bike shop owner says) and I can't figure how to get my brakes to feel like it did when I first got it I go to the bike shop every 3 months can't figure out what wrong help please its a cyrusher xf650
Cable pull bicycle brakes are trash! Even the hybrid ones. I tried them both. If the brakes aren't damaged. Then it's probably the steel line itself. I found out when I squeeze down to the max trying to stop my mountain bike. Over time the line stretches. Yes the cable itself begins to stretch. That's why a person will always be adjusting those damn brakes. Even Shimano's entry level hydraulic brakes are far superior to even the best cable pull brake setup. You'll be able to skid with ease. They feel loser compared to the cable pull brakes and the hybrids. But they have a wall at the bottom that's firm and takes little effort to stop the bike.
So... these are cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes...? These hydraulics are not fully hydraulic like those with hydraulic levers and oil reservoirs..
Great video brother I loved it!! Now I have a quick question will this hydraulic brake better then regular mechanical brake that is on lectric ebike? Will hydraulic do better braking then mechanicals brake? I guess I can replace mine for those I got an letric ebike which has disc brake so I guess they’ll fit just fine onto my bike what u think?
Do you mean you are supposed to pull the caliper together when you are tightening them? Yeah, that’s it. Oh well, I already ordered these and they seem alright
First off , I am all for hydraulic disk brakes and I use them on my bikes. These brakes would be a good alternative if:1- There was tech support for them but there isn’t any JuinTech tech support in the US. 2- From many owners of those brake calipers they say that they do not work at their best unless you replace your current mechanical cables with Compressionless cables.
What are the specifics for the calipers? Can you just buy hydraulic calipers and remove the hydraulic cable and replace with the mechanical pull wire? I am just trying to understand, as thought hydraulic brakes were pre set up for their own cables.
My adjustments on the handle bars is maxed out when replacing the mechanical brake to hydraulic should I set the adjustments on the handle bars back to factory settings or leave them maxed out like I have em?
Well, the R1 will be optimized for the leverage a road bike's caliper brake needs from the levers. The M1 will be optimized for the cable pull and leverage that MTB/Flat bar brake levers normally used for V-brakes. Their is an assortment of standards and pulls (old school cant's are different still, and you can find flat bar levers with road bike pull ratios and drop down levers with V-brake pulls, etc). But generally most modern equipment fall into one of those two categories. So in short, if bike uses V-brake levers, the M1 is the ticket. If the bike uses road bike levers optimized for calipar brakes the R1 is the brake to get. It's all about leverage - if the pull is too much, you'll get a wooden feeling brake with next to no pull at the lever with little to no power or modulation of that power (the pads will move too much for the brake lever movement giving poor power control). If the pull ratio is too little you'll pull the brake levers all the way back and seem to get no brake power but lot's of modulation given how little the pads will move for the same lever movement. As for replacement pads, I'm curious as well - I keep seeing these can use Shimano pads, but which pads I have no idea (Shimano has a pretty wide assortment of pads for all the Disc Brakes they've made over the years). Hoped the info helped & have fun! :-)
It would appear what everyone is talking about for replacement pads are older Shimano pads - the A01S (Rosin/Organic), M06 (Sintered), and M06 Ti (Sintered with Titanium back plate) look right... I'm basing that on the pictures of the pad set on Bolton Ebikes, so I'm not 100% these will work. But Juin Tech's replacement pads (right off the packaging) which def will work are P/N: GG-DP17+SP17. Obviously Bolton Ebikes should have them in stock. :-)
This needs an update. I see it is from 2018. I just received mine in 2022. Some of the instructions are not correct and there are too many items with the brakes that make no sense. Please update! It is difficult trying to do this without instructions.
Hey! I'm getting a bike that's basically the same as the "fat step through" on your site and I'm interested in getting the 355 brake set in the near future. Do you know which cutoff I should choose on your listing? Thanks!
Thanks for all your wonderful videos. I have learned a lot from them except that you sell ebikes, thus I purchased a Rad City arriving this Tuesday. I watched your install video on the Juintech M1 hydraulic calipers and wonder if I could buy one (not a pair) just for the rear replacement. Thoughts? Thanks again.!
Well didn't talk about the fact I just brought a bloody 150 dollar hydraulic break set up and I've even tried like 3 other break calipers and none worked. They just keep hitting the hub...
If my Rad Mini with the pwr upgrade is able to grab the rotors hard enough to begin skidding or softer (so I slow to a non-skid stop quickly) if I don't squeeze as hard, then how will hydraulic improve my stopping distance? Not saying they can't. I just want to understand how they can improve upon the current braking that seems 100% effective... depending on how hard I squeeze. I'm a lightweight rider if that makes any difference to the scenario. Is it solely because of the double sided grip? Thanks
Just installed the Juinteck M1 hydraulic calipers on my Rad Rover 5. The simplicity of the installation was a breeze. Your video was easier to follow than the instructions that come with the brakes. Keep the videos coming. I thoroughly enjoy them.
How did the brakes turn out?
Thank you! Upgraded my Hiboy p6 and it made a world of difference. Even with the stock pads. I was able to use the existing extenders and saved the cable crimp to reuse. I went with the X-TECH Hydraulic Calipers.
I’m a Mechanical Engineer and new to E-bikes how you opened up in this Vlog is exactly why I watch your Vlogs I don’t feel like a dumb ass listening to you, but most of these other Vloggers over explain simple things and I leave dumber I feel lmao. Thx again you explain yourself very well and it all makes sense cheers mate 🤘
BIGS SCORE That has to be the worst burn, I made more sense when I wrote that drunk. I just feel bad for you.
For those of you who are first timers, let's this be a lesson for you. Please retain the old brake line holder bolt unless you're confident that you can run the brake cable through without fraying the cable. Me being a moron took the cable off and try to run it through the new bolt and frayed the cable. I thought it wouldn't matter, but it had destroyed the brake cable. Now, new cables are being ordered and hopefully getting installed properly like this video. Lesson learned for me, at least.
Thanks for the heads up
Another good video. I think I’ll take a pair, or even 3 pairs (I have 3 Radrovers 2017) of those hydraulic brakes . But now I’m going to hold you to your word of making videos of the Radrover faster. My personal areas of interest is a 52V /35amp controller that is plug and play with the radrover, kt-lcd8h color display, real 750 watt Bafang motor upgrade and a 52V / 30ah battery pack in a triangle bag that is plug and play compatible and fits 2017 Radrover. Nobody is making good step by step videos of upgrading the Radrover. These brakes are a good start. Please help us Radrover enthusiasts. We are mostly made up of the older bicyclists that enjoy modding and accessorizing our Rads way more than the Sondors crowd.
I remember as a kid getting a hand me down 10 sp road bike with disc brake. I thought I was King of the world. Especially since it was the mid eighties. Bikes sure have come a long way.
I am new to E biking and have found your videos most helpful. I want to upgrade my stock brakes and this video is exactly what i needed to know as I was a bit distressed at the conversion cost as you mentioned. This is a great fix!! Thanks!!
I got mine and messed them up, had bike shop install them for me and all is fine now. I’m about as mechanically inclined as a dead horse. 🐴🐴🐴
Me as well lol
Same
@@86maximaa same here
How much should I be looking at to get this done at a bike shop.
Thanks
I wanted to get these but they are out of stock so I tried some from Amazon for $40 bucks and worked exactly the same way! Awesome!!!!
Hello ,do u have the link for the brakes,from amazon?
I have hydraulic brakes on my favorite machine... came installed and finding where to put brake fluid in is the aggravating point because the lines are all wrapped in a mesh wrap but guess will have to remove the mesh when it needs fluid in time... any way I do love the 750 watt Bafang motor on the ebike and the brakes are a neccessary thing as fast as it goes. I love the machine and I bought a Luckeep and Suzuki partneered with them in the electrical stuff and has a really nice Samsung battery in the machine. I like how well the hydraulic brakes work compared to my e-bike with mechanical brakes. Wish you the best and thanks for the video on how to do this stuff... will help for finding where everything is on my machine and I'm sure the fluid fill is under all that mesh wrap on my machine. Beautiful machine, spent the morning looking a lost cow that was finally found dead in a ditch... being a cowboy on an e-bike today... strange how the world changes...
I did the same, replaced the mechanical calipers with a hydraulic caliper actuated by a cable. But the braking power is really bad. In fact very low braking power compared to mechanical brakes. And even worse is the lever is very hard. Finally installed a full hydraulic brake system with fluid tubes. And WOW ! The lever is smooth as butter with only 3 fingers and the braking power is EXCELLENT !
Ordered two sets for my wife and my 2018 RadWagons and they fit great. Feel much more comfortable about stoping these heavy bikes. Thanks!
How did the brakes turn out?
@@bradlaflamme6127 Great! Fairly easy to install and much better than the factory breaks.
These brakes really were as easy to install as the video indicates. awesome product, thank you! really completes what was missing on the rover.
Fantastic!
@@Area13ebikes I have a concern about the volume of fluid in the caliper and heat disbursement. We live in a hilly neighborhood and some grades are long and somewhat steep. Is this system more susceptible to boiling the fluid than a full system with fluid in the reservoir and lines? Thank you.
@@chrisprice1603 out of thousands of brakes sold I haven't had anyone report boiling of fluid.
@Area13ebikes do you sell the brakes yourselves and if so are they still available? I own an amyet v9 g60 ebike and need to upgrade the brakes but do not want to go full hydraulic.
Good information in the video. But one thing that was not mentioned was making sure you put the washers back in the same order they came off. My first try I was rubbing on top of the rotor because the washer was not installed correctly.
Thank you so much i never knew there was an alternative over the mechanical brakes
Just bought one yesterday thanks to you
I'm retired. Non mechanic. It took me 30 minutes total for front and rear. So Kyle, maybe you can do it in 5, but I tried and couldn't. (;-) Noticed an immediate improvement on my new Crusader. Glad I won't have to bleed brakes!!!
Kind of like my mechanical disk breaks, good pads with 180mm rotors, solid break levers, or Avid BB7 and BB5 really good too.
Thanks for U tube. Just did my Vivi E-bike rear brake using new brackets, Original had spacers, Soldered cable end.
I bought this conversion for my Himiway. Works perfectly. I also have a Magicycle which I bought a hydraulic caliper kit off Amazon, works really bad. Don't be fooled by a low price alternative, it will not stop your Ebike like the Juintech M1 hydraulic calipers! They are the best and safest you can purchase.
Hi Bill, have the himiway (cruiser) too ...curious of you kept the Himiway adapters or used the ones provided with the brakes. LBS used the ones from the bike and the rotor is only covered by 70% of the pad. I just realized there were ones that came with the brakes as well, and don't know if there is a difference.
@@Gloov Hi Adrian, I Think I used the Himiway adapters, but not sure. Both were the same as I remember. You might have put them on backward?
@@BillTheHawk Thanks! Looks the same as the video and my LBS did the install. It could be the way it is and the type of pad I used to replace the ones that came stock with the brake.
Thanks for this quick demo. I've got a Blix Packa and I feel like I'm constantly fighting/adjusting the brakes. Was going to do a pad change but after watching this I bit the bullet and have ordered this kit. Can't wait to get them on the bike.
How did the brakes turn out?
@@bradlaflamme6127 worked well! Seems like a solid upgrade
A breeze on my HIMIWAY too, took approximately 35 minutes start to finish. Nice touch
Hi John, have the himiway (cruiser) too ...curious of you kept the Himiway adapters or used the ones provided with the brakes. LBS used the ones from the bike and the rotor is only covered by 70% of the pad. I just realized there were ones that came with the brakes as well, and don't know if there is a difference.
@@Gloov it’s been awhile, but it seems like I just used the ones that on the bike. I have to say I didn’t really notice a huge difference on the bike.
@@johnphillips8088 yeah i switched out the pads to some shimano organic versions, and now my brakes are making a grinding sound, but the brakes still work. Went to my LBS and they said its due to a bulge being created at the top of the pad cause the rotor isn't being fully covered. After watching some videos noticed the mounts that came with the bike, so dont know if that would be the missing link. I am not that mechanically inclined so was curious before I went back to my LBS, feel like I am border-lining harassing them at this point :).
@@Gloov actually I had very few miles on bike before I changed the brakes, and they were getting better on the stock breaks as the pads wore in. Then when I changed over to the hydraulic kit. I have again not ridden the bike a whole lot. So the pads are probably still wearing in… good luck, be safe. John
Really awesome video.You explain (and show) everything so clearly. I’m new to eBikes, so this is particularly helpful.
It was nice to meet you today. I just finished installing my calipers. Btw, Maria’s was an excellent suggestion for lunch. I highly approve of their Crab Enchiladas!
I've been using TRP Hy/RD hydraulic brake calipers for 2 seasons on my road bikes. They work great, and retain the brake cables as well.
11 speed groupset o_O?
I just ordered those.... and found this video.... I can't wait for more stopping power, I just put on dual pull brakes and that was better than single pull.... but I'm going hydro! Lol
Beautiful review! Simple and informative! I ordered a Sondors Fold X. These hydraulic breaks would be a sweet upgrade - that and a new seat post with shocks
hydraulic and mechanical brakes have the same stopping power, if adjusted correctly. one of them just needs lighter pressure to activate
I will be looking for more RadRover upgrades & tips.
Sounds great! Controllers are being made now, just waiting for the first samples to confirm everything was made correctly.
Thank you for this helpful info and for showing the parts so clearly!
Couple of things, these are hybrid hydraulic calipers, they don't self adjust as they use a cable pull, the pad wear adjuster should be at the bottom cable end of the caliper, a screw pulls the pads in.
Just ordered mine today from Bolton E bikes. 👍
looking into ordering as well
Bolton was fast to get the Order to me.
I asked a question on the website regarding how it does on long downhill declines, is it possible to dry out the mineral oil etc. he should do a video refilling the resovoir/bleeding and if we can use baby oil to save costs. my last concern is where i can buy metallic/ceramic pads for em
Matthew F He sells everything for the brakes, like you i wouldn’t no how to do the oil or the pads, that’s why I’ve decided to let our local bike shop install them, if oil or pads need replacing bike shop would no what to do.
Thanks, I tow a 100 pound dog, these brakes are awesome!
Just install hybrid brakes...cable actuated hydraulic brake calipers. Zoom sell these, and you don't have to change out your brake levers for the hydraulic ones that do not have the electronic cut off. Just use the regular ebike cable pull levers with the cut off sensor and attach them to the hydraulic brake calipers. Got them on my bike...😁
Just what I needed, thanks! Btw are those handlebars factory made like that, or you added that “leather” by yourself? I really dig it.
Love the tip videos Kyle, please keep them coming!
Thanks! Will do!
I recently got NCM Moscow, and it comes with mechanical disc brakes, was thinking of changing them to hydraulic and this seems to be a better solution.
We do like hydraulic brakes too.
@@Area13ebikes So I got this from you guys recently, maybe a week, and finally got the time to put it on the bike. I was trying to make the gap between the brake pads bigger, now there is literally no space on either side. I see there is a mechanism to loosen it, but the screw only unscrews itself from the long bolt if I spin it counter clockwise, what gives? Is it defective? I will test the other one out tomorrow and see if I can loosen it, if not I will have to take a plier to it.
Thank you Bolton for your fast reply! Also thanks for the great video, it makes me very confident that I can install the brakes properly.
Love these, much easier pull, stops great, don't know if better stopping but the ease of pull is dramatic and I like the easy adjust, just turn a screw. Thanks Kyle!
You are supposed to have conical washers on both sides of the caliper. Without them, when you tighten, the caliper cannot articulate to the rotor fully. It only sort of aligns. That's why those washers are that weird shape.
We have 2 Lectric XPs on order and I'll be pulling a Schwinn pet trailer with our 15lb. dog...and having to stop with that extra weight! I'm gonna get these calipers for my bike right away.
If your bike won't run and you get an error code , check your brake levers aren't badly adjusted and hitting the cut out switch. I adjust my brakes at the brake end.
Terrific video. As usual. So clear and concise. Thank you!
Couple of questions for you .......... Where to buy and cost ?. Also, where is the oil reservoir ? All hydraulic brake systems rely on a fluid supply.
boltonebikes.com/products/juintech-m1-hydraulic-calipers-easy-install-on-most-ebikes#shopify-product-reviews
oil reservoir is in the caliper itself
Thank you for all your advice. Two questions:
1. Will these calipers fit on the Ecotric Fat Tire? It looks like the same bike.
2. Have you heard of the Xtech HB 100
Great idea, but I would caution against using this on the rear brake of an e-tricycle because it appears to be normal practice to only brake one rear wheel. Normally the left side freewheels, and the reason is that unless it does, going around corners would require a differential gear setup. Heavy braking could slew the cycle sideways.
That sounds kind of scary to me, tricycles are much heavier than bicycles and their brakes are also worse?
actually I would think the hydraulic brakes would be easier to control. or by a trike from Lectric, as it comes with a differential as standard equipment.
This seems like what I should do but on top of that maybe new disk breaks because I’m pretty sure mine have warping from the start even. I can feel it when I break too especially in the front. Can’t adjust the pads in any efficient way to not have some sort of rub at some points in the rotation either. But good thing is I did get them to stop me pretty decently so as far as safety goes I should be okay for now but I also do not want that rubbing resistance when I’m not using the breaks.
Buy a rotor alignment tool, will save you that issue, spin wheel, mark the first point of pad touch and the last, then slide tool in the middle of marks and pull to the side away from where it touch, i had to do it so a misaligned wheel hub setting my rotor off line.
This is a really cool solution to a somewhat non-existent problem. I can understand why someone with arthritis would need it, but they probably wouldn't be riding a bike anyway. Or maybe they would, since it's an e-bike. Hmmm, interesting. In any case, I looked for these and they seem to be very rare or expensive, or both. Still a neat idea though.
The problem is hydraulic brakes that are easy to install on all ebikes. Many don't have a solution as ebike specific brakes need to have the right plug for the brake cutoff. This fixes that. As far as price, $150 for a pair of hydraulic brakes seems pretty reasonable to me. I stock them at BoltonEbikes.com.
My front bottom adjustment knob was so tight that when attempting to loosen it through bottom plastic nut came off. Great concept but they seem cheaply made. I'll be putting the Tektros back on and don't think I'll be buying again. Super disappointed because they did perform well until adjustments were needed.
With regular hydraulic brakes, you need less hand pressure than mechanical brakes to get the same level of stopping power. Is this true of these cable-actuated brakes as well? I don't necessarily feel like I need more stopping power than the mechanical brakes, but I have some hand issues, so if these brakes require less hand pressure to yield the same level of stopping power, there would be value in that for me. TIA for any thoughts.
Jake that's an excellent question. Yes, they are easier to stop with than standard mechanical brakes. I would however say a 100% hydraulic setup has an easier lever pull as you don't have the friction of the steel cable involved.
Velomobile Shop Thanks. Would compression free brake cables improve that too? If so, do you sell those?
jake london I have not personally tried it. At a minimum, you could certainly lubricate your existing cables to make the pull easier.
@@jakelondon - Hi Jake - compression-less cables and housing is the way to go. Jagwire is the more known brand but a step up is the Yokozuna is the best. Many reports of this cable and house being superior to the Jagwire compressionless system. Also, Yokozuna as a premium caliper like the Juin referenced here... but at a much higher price point. The Juin is a good way to go and I think the compressionless cable housing would be helpful to your hands. Good luck! (I realize my comment if two-years too late... but just in case it helps)
Hi, i was looking for something like this, but i need for a Etrike Addmotor M-340 ? so i would need 3 hydraulic brake calipers ok, one front and 2 rear calipers.
I have an evox city I went to the bike shop the guy was telling me to put hydraulic brakes and with the discs and pads it was 380.00$ My car brakes were half that price 😄
Worth it!
can you still call a hydraulic brake if you are still using mechanical cables instead of hydraulic tubes? I presume that the performance is half as good as fully hydraulic brakes
Good stuff. Installing new brakes this weekend, Juin Tech GT for my Super73.
/Bklyn👑
Dude, this is so perfect!!! Thank you so much!!!
do these calipers fit the Lectric XP, and if so which ones?
I do wonder if because the calipers I have are the kind where one pad moves that it causes disk warp by pushing on the disk until it’s grasped by both pads.
Hello Willy here I thought hydraulic brakes needed brake fluid can you please let me know ? Thank you.
Exactly....🤔🙄
Can you do it for the Lectric XP Lite???
Do a vlog for the Lectric XP Lite caliper conversion is that possible?
Dude you are selling the same brakes as zoom xteck hydraulic disc brake and they cost like 42$ a set, and u seeling for 150$ , 👏
Not even close to the same brakes.
Do you have more input re:the. Himiway brand ?
You do great on the rad brand. ...thanks
How to install Hydraulic Brakes on Ebikes in 5 minutes.
why is it an 11min vid ? just having fun - another great vid. ty
Why did they used to spec out hard drives for 200,000 hours MTBF, but only give you a five year warranty? How many licks does it take to get to the tootsie roll center of a tootsie pop. The world may never know.
Do you recommend this hydraulic brakes? How are yours working till today?
Yes of course. All are working well. I've sold many sets and have zero complaints!
Bolton Ebikes thank you I’ll give them a try
Can any one answer this question anyone and give an answer so I was going down my big hill with my kiddo in her trailer hitting my back brake to stop at a stop sign and my brake line popped out can I put it back in and if so how or do I have to buy new line
My bike has a brake pad hydraulic hybrid (atheist that's what my bike shop owner says) and I can't figure how to get my brakes to feel like it did when I first got it I go to the bike shop every 3 months can't figure out what wrong help please its a cyrusher xf650
Cable pull bicycle brakes are trash! Even the hybrid ones. I tried them both. If the brakes aren't damaged. Then it's probably the steel line itself. I found out when I squeeze down to the max trying to stop my mountain bike. Over time the line stretches. Yes the cable itself begins to stretch. That's why a person will always be adjusting those damn brakes. Even Shimano's entry level hydraulic brakes are far superior to even the best cable pull brake setup. You'll be able to skid with ease. They feel loser compared to the cable pull brakes and the hybrids. But they have a wall at the bottom that's firm and takes little effort to stop the bike.
So... these are cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes...? These hydraulics are not fully hydraulic like those with hydraulic levers and oil reservoirs..
Wire cables don't leak!
Am I missing something? Don't Hydraulic brakes need fluid and need to be bleed?
you should be careful to not lock up the wheel as you lose control and can fall especially on gravel surfaces.
Would this fit a Magicycle 52V 15Ah Cruiser All Terrain Electric Bike
Thanks
What about the cut off switch?
do these hydraulic calipers fit the Lectric XP?
I'm guessing I put the adapter with the 180 on the wheel with a 180 rotor... I wish you wrote the instructions, the Chinese ones never make sense.
I’m wondering if there is a new link for where to purchase these. The link won’t let me go to the site.
Excellent video. Thx.
Great video brother I loved it!! Now I have a quick question will this hydraulic brake better then regular mechanical brake that is on lectric ebike? Will hydraulic do better braking then mechanicals brake? I guess I can replace mine for those I got an letric ebike which has disc brake so I guess they’ll fit just fine onto my bike what u think?
do you need to change rotor? set comes with rotor
There is a magnetic switch that can be used with juice brake conversion, do you have a video for that solution...
Do you mean you are supposed to pull the caliper together when you are tightening them?
Yeah, that’s it.
Oh well, I already ordered these and they seem alright
Just bought a Rad Rover 5 and attempted to install the brakes as per the video and am completely dissatisfied. Feel completely ripped off.
First off , I am all for hydraulic disk brakes and I use them on my bikes.
These brakes would be a good alternative if:1- There was tech support for them but there isn’t any JuinTech tech support in the US.
2- From many owners of those brake calipers they say that they do not work at their best unless you replace your current mechanical cables with Compressionless cables.
No need to worry about tech support if you buy them from me. :)
Velomobile Shop Ok 👌 Thank you ! What your experience with using the brakes and the brakes feeling to to soft without using compressionless cables?
Which hydraulic brake calipers do I get for a Akez S2?
The site is down where do i get those brakes?
What are the specifics for the calipers? Can you just buy hydraulic calipers and remove the hydraulic cable and replace with the mechanical pull wire? I am just trying to understand, as thought hydraulic brakes were pre set up for their own cables.
I've measured the length I need for my rear brake on ramini4 and it's 233 cm. Do hydraulic brake lines come that long?
My adjustments on the handle bars is maxed out when replacing the mechanical brake to hydraulic should I set the adjustments on the handle bars back to factory settings or leave them maxed out like I have em?
Would these fit on a Lectric X P ?
Wondering the same thing. (update: I got them and they fit, good upgrade!)
what brake pads fit this M1 ? And what is the difference between M1 and R1 ?
Well, the R1 will be optimized for the leverage a road bike's caliper brake needs from the levers. The M1 will be optimized for the cable pull and leverage that MTB/Flat bar brake levers normally used for V-brakes. Their is an assortment of standards and pulls (old school cant's are different still, and you can find flat bar levers with road bike pull ratios and drop down levers with V-brake pulls, etc). But generally most modern equipment fall into one of those two categories. So in short, if bike uses V-brake levers, the M1 is the ticket. If the bike uses road bike levers optimized for calipar brakes the R1 is the brake to get. It's all about leverage - if the pull is too much, you'll get a wooden feeling brake with next to no pull at the lever with little to no power or modulation of that power (the pads will move too much for the brake lever movement giving poor power control). If the pull ratio is too little you'll pull the brake levers all the way back and seem to get no brake power but lot's of modulation given how little the pads will move for the same lever movement. As for replacement pads, I'm curious as well - I keep seeing these can use Shimano pads, but which pads I have no idea (Shimano has a pretty wide assortment of pads for all the Disc Brakes they've made over the years). Hoped the info helped & have fun! :-)
It would appear what everyone is talking about for replacement pads are older Shimano pads - the A01S (Rosin/Organic), M06 (Sintered), and M06 Ti (Sintered with Titanium back plate) look right... I'm basing that on the pictures of the pad set on Bolton Ebikes, so I'm not 100% these will work. But Juin Tech's replacement pads (right off the packaging) which def will work are P/N: GG-DP17+SP17. Obviously Bolton Ebikes should have them in stock. :-)
This needs an update. I see it is from 2018. I just received mine in 2022. Some of the instructions are not correct and there are too many items with the brakes that make no sense. Please update! It is difficult trying to do this without instructions.
thank you!!!
Hey! I'm getting a bike that's basically the same as the "fat step through" on your site and I'm interested in getting the 355 brake set in the near future. Do you know which cutoff I should choose on your listing? Thanks!
Unless it's exactly the same bike purchase from me, I don't know.
Thanks for all your wonderful videos. I have learned a lot from them except that you sell ebikes, thus I purchased a Rad City arriving this Tuesday. I watched your install video on the Juintech M1 hydraulic calipers and wonder if I could buy one (not a pair) just for the rear replacement.
Thoughts?
Thanks again.!
We only sell them in pairs. Because if you need to replace the front, you may want the back too.
Well didn't talk about the fact I just brought a bloody 150 dollar hydraulic break set up and I've even tried like 3 other break calipers and none worked. They just keep hitting the hub...
Will the catazer MTB HB 100 caliper brakes go on the same way on my luckeep folding ebike?
Hey-- great video and this looks like it would be helpful for me. Have you verified if these calipers are compatible with the Radwagon 4?
Need to bleed the brake or change fluid in the future?
Hi! Do you still recommend the Juin Teck M1 for bikes like the Rad Rover 5 and Himiway or do you have a new favorite model? Tx!
Can these be used with a 180mm rotor
Do hydraulic brakes leak? Have a 20" fat folder, would like to have the better breaks but fold and transport bike offen. Will it leak?
If my Rad Mini with the pwr upgrade is able to grab the rotors hard enough to begin skidding or softer (so I slow to a non-skid stop quickly) if I don't squeeze as hard, then how will hydraulic improve my stopping distance? Not saying they can't. I just want to understand how they can improve upon the current braking that seems 100% effective... depending on how hard I squeeze. I'm a lightweight rider if that makes any difference to the scenario. Is it solely because of the double sided grip? Thanks
where do you suggest to purchase these hydraulic brakes? what site?
They're available at BoltonEbikes.com
@@Area13ebikes haha my bad. =)
Also, will these fit on the newer 2019 frames now? Are they similar in engineering for fit, as in your video?
What's the difference between M1 and R1? Thanks enjoy your page..