OK... that's waaaay out of my comfort zone. I've worked in a workshop in the past but frankly, I would pay someone to do that for me now. Kudos for what you're doing, amazing video! Keep them coming! :)
I was thinking of getting it to you quick because I saw the pics of the front forks... I've heard they need to be set right if you get a bigger tank, but I know nothing about this stuff.
Nitrogen is used because it has no moisture in it vs the air we breathe, the moisture is what expands and contracts with temp changes, straight oxygen wouldn't have moisture but its not an inert gas where nitrogen is meaning oxygen can react with other elements while nitrogen can not and you don't want oxygen reacting with anything inside your shock, fluids and metals would "oxidize" ruining your shocks day. Plus nitrogen is abundant and cheap. We always fill race car and Kart tires with only nitrogen so the pressure stays more consistent. Good video im getting my DRZ soon and likely will end up with a basket case since im poor and your videos are just what I need to rebuild and refresh everything I can. Cheers Edit: I guess technically if you have a bladder shock you could use straight o2 since its contained in a rubber bladder but deff not with a separated piston shock. But now im just rambling and need to go to work.
I actually have done more valving on inverted forks than upside right forks, and really, the inverted forks do a better job at consistent dampning because the sealed cartridge separates the 2 oil chambers and therefore controls heat better. They can handle more aggressive work loads, thus are found on motocross bikes that are getting beat to death. They can be made quite plush, and still handle a big hit. For dual purpose/dualsport/adventure riding, upside right forks are just fine.
Also, the new KYB inverted forks (KX 450 F 2013 model) with the adjustable air bladder are seriously plush and still take a good hit. I'm not sure how they would do an an adventure bike, but on a motocross bike, they are the bomb....
EveRide is a good friend who has one of the most entertaining motovlogging channels on youtube. If you haven't, you should subscribe to his channel, it's a blast to watch his video's. Working on motorcycles is not my job, it's my hobby, I'm just a backyard gearhead like most of the other dirt bikers out there, and want to show people how you can do some basic repairs on your own for fun or to save money, so that you can get into the awesome world of riding motorcycles.
Okay so first of all I laughed the entire way through at Rojoneck's perfectly placed "That's what she said!" :) So this is a random question... I was out hunting with my bro-in-law on the AZ strip and realized I really really miss the range of the KLR. If I bought a desert tank and had it shipped to you, could you slap it on there? I thought about how nice it would be to not have to strap gas tanks to the back... it would probably reduce my fury-induced rage mode and cussing by 89.6%.
My Man EveRide, we have a master plan for fuel for ya ...... You will have to wait and see, but it would be my ideal set up.... Wahhhaaaahhhhaaaaa.......
we pretty much wing it on everything, too bad EveRide doesn't have much say in this one :)) If it falls apart, we still have all of his original stuff. J/K, we're trying to do a much better job on it than he could get anywhere else, including the dealership......
@@MrDuhfactor Screw it, I'm doing it!!! I was going to pay a guy to do it for me for 380$ both spring and revalve, but I can get it done in less than 3 hours myself, save 250$ and I won't have to waste 3 hours on the highway!!! Thanks so much for your videos!!!
I’m about to do this and I wonder if the internal rebound mechanism in the shaft will be okay after grinding down so much of the top of the nut? I ask because the grinding instructions by Race Tech for Showa says only the top outer edge should be ground otherwise the rebound mechanism can dislodge during use. Their picture shows only a very small outer part ground. www.racetech.com/page/title/IP%20SK%20VALVING%20STD They actually sell a castle nut to repair shafts ground too much. Maybe they’re being too conservative?
I depends on which bike your doing, racetech's method applies to some of the old Showa models. The staking affects the outside of the shaft, and the inside of the nut, so if you take off material on an angle, just make sure to take the outer edge of the shaft, and you will be able to remove the nut without damaging the shaft, which is the primary goal.
MrDuhfactor ...I’m doing the exact same bike, 2002 DRZ400E (street legal version). I don’t think I’ve ground too much off, but I did take a fair bit because I still couldn’t get the nut off. Basically I went slowly, trying to remove the nut, then did some more etc etc. How would you know if you’ve taken off too much thread, do you know ? The little rod is still inside the shaft core, and when I look down the hole in the center of the shaft I can see a small “ring” (ie narrower diameter hole than at the top of the shaft) just ~2mm down, so I figure that’s there to stop the internal rod from being ejected (?). Should I put the race Tech castle nut on to be safe? TBH I’m not really sure what potential problems they’re alluding to when they write about being careful not to grind so much as to ruin the rebound mechanism.
@@ronanrogers4127 You are fine with how far you have gone. The rebound mechanism for this model is not nearly as sensitive as other models, and you would have to go way below the step you are seeing before you create a problem.
Man, I understand, but I can't afford to pay those people, and I generally get the bike back with less than what I wanted or would do myself..So, I just try to figure it out on my own, usually on someone else's bike.... Ha Ha!! J/K EveRide.... I'm a gear head at heart I think....
I hope the J/K was just a double negative... in reality you really are figuring out how to break the poor guys bike! ;) hah... Would you say the inverted forks are much different from those you have there?
Really hoping I didn't ruin my shock shaft after following this video. I should have watched a few others before jumping in. Apparently you are NOT supposed to grind the threads flush with the piston nut because the inside peening holds in parts in the rebound port. You are ONLY supposed to take off the outside swage to get the nut off and not disturb the inside. Racetech and a few other videos show this.
+Jay Kanor then I'm not sure what you did wrong, there are many shocks with rebound check balls and other things that require a beveled edge, but not this one...I've done hundreds with no problems, good luck with yours....
You didn’t finish. If you take the bottom mount off the shaft there is a long needle in there with a on ring on one end. Might asleep replace that whilst your at it.
OK... that's waaaay out of my comfort zone. I've worked in a workshop in the past but frankly, I would pay someone to do that for me now. Kudos for what you're doing, amazing video! Keep them coming! :)
Boys, the innuendo is outstanding! Great wrenching tips too! Thanks for the vids.
I was thinking of getting it to you quick because I saw the pics of the front forks... I've heard they need to be set right if you get a bigger tank, but I know nothing about this stuff.
Nitrogen is used because it has no moisture in it vs the air we breathe, the moisture is what expands and contracts with temp changes, straight oxygen wouldn't have moisture but its not an inert gas where nitrogen is meaning oxygen can react with other elements while nitrogen can not and you don't want oxygen reacting with anything inside your shock, fluids and metals would "oxidize" ruining your shocks day. Plus nitrogen is abundant and cheap. We always fill race car and Kart tires with only nitrogen so the pressure stays more consistent. Good video im getting my DRZ soon and likely will end up with a basket case since im poor and your videos are just what I need to rebuild and refresh everything I can. Cheers
Edit: I guess technically if you have a bladder shock you could use straight o2 since its contained in a rubber bladder but deff not with a separated piston shock. But now im just rambling and need to go to work.
I am looking forward to seeing how you tune the shock. Great video!
You guys are fowl
I actually have done more valving on inverted forks than upside right forks, and really, the inverted forks do a better job at consistent dampning because the sealed cartridge separates the 2 oil chambers and therefore controls heat better. They can handle more aggressive work loads, thus are found on motocross bikes that are getting beat to death. They can be made quite plush, and still handle a big hit. For dual purpose/dualsport/adventure riding, upside right forks are just fine.
Also, the new KYB inverted forks (KX 450 F 2013 model) with the adjustable air bladder are seriously plush and still take a good hit. I'm not sure how they would do an an adventure bike, but on a motocross bike, they are the bomb....
That was so cool, I totally need your help rebuilding mine
EveRide is a good friend who has one of the most entertaining motovlogging channels on youtube. If you haven't, you should subscribe to his channel, it's a blast to watch his video's. Working on motorcycles is not my job, it's my hobby, I'm just a backyard gearhead like most of the other dirt bikers out there, and want to show people how you can do some basic repairs on your own for fun or to save money, so that you can get into the awesome world of riding motorcycles.
Okay so first of all I laughed the entire way through at Rojoneck's perfectly placed "That's what she said!" :) So this is a random question... I was out hunting with my bro-in-law on the AZ strip and realized I really really miss the range of the KLR. If I bought a desert tank and had it shipped to you, could you slap it on there? I thought about how nice it would be to not have to strap gas tanks to the back... it would probably reduce my fury-induced rage mode and cussing by 89.6%.
As a carpenter, I have perfected the "Safety Squint" |^)
My Man EveRide, we have a master plan for fuel for ya ......
You will have to wait and see, but it would be my ideal set up.... Wahhhaaaahhhhaaaaa.......
great series. how do you know everide and are you a professional on motorbike repairs?
great team...
we pretty much wing it on everything, too bad EveRide doesn't have much say in this one :)) If it falls apart, we still have all of his original stuff. J/K, we're trying to do a much better job on it than he could get anywhere else, including the dealership......
Awesome
so informative! NEXT!
I've seen a video which doesn't entail taking half the bike apart just to remove the rear shock.
Meh. $250 for an IMS on eBay is way too freakin' much for a bit of plastic. Nevah mind!
Wow it's a lot easier than I thought! All I'm missing is a way to refill the nitrogen.👀
A local shop would probably do it for 5-10 bucks bud :)
@@MrDuhfactor Screw it, I'm doing it!!! I was going to pay a guy to do it for me for 380$ both spring and revalve, but I can get it done in less than 3 hours myself, save 250$ and I won't have to waste 3 hours on the highway!!! Thanks so much for your videos!!!
I’m about to do this and I wonder if the internal rebound mechanism in the shaft will be okay after grinding down so much of the top of the nut? I ask because the grinding instructions by Race Tech for Showa says only the top outer edge should be ground otherwise the rebound mechanism can dislodge during use. Their picture shows only a very small outer part ground. www.racetech.com/page/title/IP%20SK%20VALVING%20STD They actually sell a castle nut to repair shafts ground too much. Maybe they’re being too conservative?
I depends on which bike your doing, racetech's method applies to some of the old Showa models. The staking affects the outside of the shaft, and the inside of the nut, so if you take off material on an angle, just make sure to take the outer edge of the shaft, and you will be able to remove the nut without damaging the shaft, which is the primary goal.
MrDuhfactor ...I’m doing the exact same bike, 2002 DRZ400E (street legal version). I don’t think I’ve ground too much off, but I did take a fair bit because I still couldn’t get the nut off. Basically I went slowly, trying to remove the nut, then did some more etc etc. How would you know if you’ve taken off too much thread, do you know ? The little rod is still inside the shaft core, and when I look down the hole in the center of the shaft I can see a small “ring” (ie narrower diameter hole than at the top of the shaft) just ~2mm down, so I figure that’s there to stop the internal rod from being ejected (?). Should I put the race Tech castle nut on to be safe? TBH I’m not really sure what potential problems they’re alluding to when they write about being careful not to grind so much as to ruin the rebound mechanism.
@@ronanrogers4127 You are fine with how far you have gone. The rebound mechanism for this model is not nearly as sensitive as other models, and you would have to go way below the step you are seeing before you create a problem.
MrDuhfactor ...thanks so much
Man, I understand, but I can't afford to pay those people, and I generally get the bike back with less than what I wanted or would do myself..So, I just try to figure it out on my own, usually on someone else's bike.... Ha Ha!! J/K EveRide.... I'm a gear head at heart I think....
I wish I could too :))
You probably have a pair of German torque wrenches too :)
there are rules in the workshop? i thought u guys were just "winging it" while overhaulin' the AFLAC duck.
I hope the J/K was just a double negative... in reality you really are figuring out how to break the poor guys bike! ;) hah... Would you say the inverted forks are much different from those you have there?
Nein, ich habe Sears Craftsman Tools ;)
Really hoping I didn't ruin my shock shaft after following this video. I should have watched a few others before jumping in. Apparently you are NOT supposed to grind the threads flush with the piston nut because the inside peening holds in parts in the rebound port. You are ONLY supposed to take off the outside swage to get the nut off and not disturb the inside. Racetech and a few other videos show this.
You should know your particular shock before randomly following a video dude.... this is specific for a DRZ shock, not others.....
+MrDuhfactor mine is a DRZ with the exact same shock, dude.
+Jay Kanor 3+ videos say to not disturb the inside swaging, especially on Showa's
+Jay Kanor then I'm not sure what you did wrong, there are many shocks with rebound check balls and other things that require a beveled edge, but not this one...I've done hundreds with no problems, good luck with yours....
"it's so dirty it's hard to get off" you missed that one
I wish you could steal my bike as well.
You didn’t finish. If you take the bottom mount off the shaft there is a long needle in there with a on ring on one end. Might asleep replace that whilst your at it.
I like turtles!
did anyone else spray break cleaner in their eye after watching this
Comedy😂
this seems like a lot of work and a major pita...i sure hope everide paid you....
The cringe is unbearable