Lisle 40100 Hub Bearing Assembly Remover.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2022
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I like the concept, but it stresses me out pushing on the ears lol
If you can't take the baking plate out, like in subaru you can find a solid spot behind the backing plate and set up a wedge between the backing plate and the solid spot to avoid using the ear caliper.
Agree 100%, NOT on the calliper bracket holding ears
They will bend and the brake will bind
Done it a bunch. Bearing comes out without concern. Obviously I paid very close attention
Could probably use an old rotor to push on placed in between the hub and the dust shield.
When they're super rusted an air hammer is your best friend. We had a used car at my work we tried welding a pipe to the hub and it still wouldn't come out. Screw Subaru rear wheel bearings.
You stopped with half the idea of the pipe. After the pipe is attached I use my truck and a chain to get a little push pull action never had it fail yet
Nothing like the Ole B.F.H
The tool works great. Just have to use it properly. I do bearings daily in the rust belt. Best money I ever spent
I've tried a similar method and bent the ears on the knuckle. I find a slide hammer attached to the studs works best.
Some times you can remove a wheel stud and the use a long thread bolt and nut between hub and knuckle to push the hub out.
I’ve seen the ears snap. Nothing beats the hammer or air hammer method
The Leslie is the dopest wheel bearing removal I've seen thus far
I'm just a weekend mechanic but I was thinking maybe slide a chunk of steel between the 2 ears to displace the load 🤔
For sure, this is a good idea. It would distribute the load over both 'ears' cutting the force in half!
I’ve had some luck with turning an old brake rotor around backwards and hitting that with a sledgehammer. I call it the poor man’s hub shocker.
Usually just brakes the brake rotor when I've tried that, but also live in the rust belt
@@cheesecurd100s I’m really surprised I haven’t broken one yet.I’m also in the rust belt.
This tool makes the hub shocker a waste of time. Been there done that
Thank you for telling us it actually failed on that one. I like the thought on these bearing “puller” tools but they rarely work for me either. Same with these tools for pushing out a stuck cv axle. Clearly some of these clowns have never come across a cv axle that is so completely rusted to the hub it is not coming out no matter what you do. It just ends up mangling the studs and now you’re really f$&@ed and can’t even put the wheel back on.
Here in the Rust Belt I have found the most reliable method to be knocking out a wheel stud or 2 and using a nut and bolt as a jack to push the inside of the hub face away from the knuckle. With the stud out, inset the largest diameter bolt a bolt with long threads through the hole and screw it into a nut on the other side of the hub{inside}. You may have to use washers between the nut and hub if your bolt does not have long enough threads. Tighten the bolt while holding the nut as the bolt bares against a solid piece of the knuckle. Repeat in different areas if necessary. This has worked for me every time on a wide variety of rusted bearings.....even the rear bearings of Ford Explorers....possibly the worst ones. HTH.
Thanks for posting this video of that new tool.
Exploers are terrible but ram 3500 4x4 have given me the worst trouble of all
I reinstalled the wheel and beat the tire. Worked on my cars every time
More leverage as well
That sounds like a good idea
Good way to destroy the rim. Tried it a few times and never had it work. Have also tried driving around with the hub bolts loose to no avail.
The old school method always comes through
Usually just separates the hub. If it’s rust free then a long pry bar and impact hammer usually works
I've had good success with taking it off the car and hammering them out and installing the new one and reassembled it!! Good luck!!
Love your videos. Shows you can do the jobs out in the yard as long as you have the right tools. Check out the Astro 78834 last chance tool . It definitely helps with these stubborn Subaru wheel bearings!!
Don’t listen to this with headphones on high volume when he says “Let’s go ahead and give it a whirl”
I thought this dude was right behind me hahaha
Glad to see it want easy on a 2017. My 2010 kicked my ass for 3 days
Hey guys. I work for Ford and I use this tool to remove hubs on Explorer (front and rear). It could be Fusion or Edge. For the Explorer you have to remove the bolts for the backing plate, and rotate that to find the solid spot to put against. If you avoid the ear caliper you should have no problem.
I did an explorer today. Seized as f. There’s good strong spots to push on. Saved me an hour of sledgehammer work. One of the best tools I’ve ever bought. Just don’t forget to leave the axle tight like this guy did. I made the same mistake
They made a tool that cant be used as intended without destroying the ears or the heat shield. They are brilliant.
This would work much better if Subaru used removable dust shields instead of sandwiching them between the hub and knuckle.
Put a piece of metal between the two and use that to push on as a metal plate or something will have some surface area to utilize both the ears.
I've been a mechanic since I was a little kid. It's all I ever wanted to do. Just looking at that tool I knew it wasn't going to work. Especially in the rust belt! You can't pull a bearing from one side, it has to be pushed or pulled evenly.
Interesting idea. I stumbled across a 'Hub Buster', which is a beefy extension you bolt onto the hub. Whacking on the hub buster, the wheel bearing pops free, even in the rust belt. The idea was so intriguing, I made my own out of some 1/2" flat plate and some heavy wall 2" square tubing. I haven't yet tried it, but owning a Subaru, it will only be a matter of time, ha ha.
Yup. I have one. Did a video on it about a month ago or so.
Just use a trailer hitch with the ball removed, bolted on a wheel stud. Hit it with your biggest Jezza.
Did all 4 hub/bearings on my crosstrek with a slide hammer. Even with rust it wasn't a problem.
You’re a lucky mf all mine have taken the spindle out with the base still in it
You need to leave the axle nut tight. I made that mistake my first time too. The tool works fantastic and is a lifesaver especially on explorers and Subaru
Snap on Axle service set has a slide hammer with a puller center point. You put pressure on the axle, hit the slide hammer a few times then tighten it up again. If the axle is free, then you don't push on it, just use the slide hammer. Pulls evenly without stress to other parts.
That's ballsy there.
I had to use a cold chisel and a 3lb hammer to get mine off. The steel and aluminum created one hell of a bond.
There’s an old OTC puller we have. It has some pieces to hook to the lug studs with the lug nuts, and a large screw with a striking head on it, with a turning tool also meant to be hit with a hammer. Even has a little centering spike on the end. Works amazingly.
I just use a "clawfoot style" bearing puller for hub bearings. Just hang the claws on the outside of the wheel stud flange, and put the tapered bolt on the end of the axle shaft. It pulls straight and true every time. The only time it's ever failed me is when the bearing comes apart during removal, but in that case nothing is going to work effectively.
My did my rear wheel Bearings. It took 4 to 5 hours to do the driver side. We took turns banging on it and we try heat. It finally pop out.
We ran out of time to do the other side, so we did the passenger side the next weekend.
One thing that we learned from the 1st one was to get a new brake pad shield.
This one took longer to replace and we had to destroy the old brake shield to get the bearing out. New England weather and salt on the roads rust everything
I use my IR airhammer with a blunt 1/2" round shank. Remove the bolts and come from the back through the bolt holes with the hammer and they push right out.
Hub shocker is the way to go
And old man showed me a trick with pullers that’s better then a impact or any thing, put a ratchet on the puller tighten it till it gets tight then take the ratchet off and wack the bolt of the puller with a little Thrack then you should be able to put the ratchet back onto it and turn it even more and just repeat a few times till it’s pulled a lot of people ruin pullers from just tryna tighten on them till something pops free
I got a four pound sledge for just this reason. Wisconsin hubs are some of the worst.
Gotta take the brake shoes off so have more places to press off of. Usually the backing plates have disintegrated where I live anyways.
I’m not sure why people struggle with these…. Slide hammer hub out the way, remove parking brake shoes. And hit bearing extremely hard, works 90 % of the time all the time.
I’ve had good luck sliding an adjustable wrench onto the hub face and using it as a lever to pull off the hub. Sometimes a hammer helps
Nice trusty cook I mean Snap-on hammer I have the same set very nice tool
They sell one like that but the part that tighten you smack down with a hammer.
Remove the axle nut first and get the slide hammer style for best results
Ha! Just replaced two rear hub beari g assemblies today. I just undid the bolts and they fell off
Better you than me 😆
It would have been a cool video if you would have showed the process
I work as a tech at a Subaru dealer in New Hampshire, like the worst state for rust and corrosion. Every single hub bearing I do is always extremely difficult to get out of the knuckle. I used to use some hardened extended bolts in place of the fasteners that are supposed to hold the bearing in, and then air hammer them from the back. It used to work pretty well, but would often take a while to work out. Recently got one of these, and it’s become one of my favorite tools. Gets those bearings out every time and in probably 1/4 of the time and much less effort. Much easier to use the torque of a gun for this as opposed to the impact of a hammer. If you do these wheel bearings often, get one of these. 100% best wheel bearing tool on the market imo
The trick too is to leave the axle nut on the axle. If you take the axle nut off first, it will separate the bearing. But I’m leaving it on until it’s super loose will keep it together.
It should also be added that out of probably 30 or so of these hubs I’ve used this tool on, I have not had one caliper bracket ear break
anything that has spent alot of time in the rust belt an air hammer or sledge hammer is the only way your getting hubs out. that tool would just snap off the caliper ears before even budging the hub. companies are now making loaded knuckles, which while more money may be a good option for severely rusted cars. and will save alot of labor with the older pressed in wheel bearings.
3 jaw pullers work just fine. No need to get fancy. Did this exact hub in a garage with a harbor freight puller and a plug in kawasaki impact. Get r done.
I like how you're using a battery powered impact to try and take that off. Use a damn air impact wrench genius. You need the torque.
I've had to beat them out with a sledgehammer before. I've only had one just fall out on its own.
There's a tool that looks just like that. You bolt up the same way, but you beat it off with a hammer, very heavy duty.
Yeah risk is too much for the rewards if that bends the ears just a bit your caliper will not being true to the rotor. I think I'll continue to use the hammer aswell.
doesnt compare to the hub (tamer-shocker) tool you showed a couple of videos ago......keep the great content coming
That's asking for a bad time 😂 a 12mm bolt and nut works pretty well on a lot of cars, just knock the stud out, put the bolt through the hole and put the nut on the back.
Interesting. I thought you had another hub bearing puller that bolted on in similar fashion to the wheel studs with a long black square piece of metal protruding out and once you got’er mounted up you just hit it with a hammer I thought. Leverage. It was a few videos ago. That’s the tool I was referring to in yesterdays comments. No big deal 🤷♂️ lol I don’t have TikTok
Yes. I still have the hub shocker. Wanted to try this Lisle tool because it just released.
NEVER not even rust free
I had spare bolts that I would thread in from the front side, heat everything up, then take a heavy duty punch from the rear side in the bolt holes and hit with hammer
There has got to be a method to get these off without the brutality.
Nope. There isn't. Usually it's a lot more brutal than that. Bigger hammer too.
Ride Or Die Seems like they could make a tool of some sort.
What about a slide hammer?
Get the hub shocker. All my bolt in bearings come out in under 5 hits👨🔧👨🔧
I broke the mounting spot for my wheel speed sensor on mu mk4 jetta doing this. Had to replace the whole knuckle. My milwaukee impact and heavy finger gave her a little too much hell
Those Subarus eat those rear bearings and they are always such a pain in the ass to get out, even if it's not rusted
2017 with drum breaks?
Slide hammer?
How come u work outside?
How to bend your caliper carrier....
What’s wrong with using a slide hammer
What about the slide hammer tool??? That’s the one to use when to remove a hub like that one!!!
@mike don’t press off the ears
So did you never see a slide hammer?
Usually that is very soft cast iron and will bend very easily. I wouldnt ever do that because your likely going to be buying the guy a new hub
Hmm piece of thick steel with a indentation in the middle to bridge the ears?
u did take the 4 bolts on the back side
Won't like because of the number... 665 lol but take this as my thumbs up
😂 everybody tries to make it harder than it is... Back out the bolts the quarter of an inch.. All of them ..take the socket. Take an extension you want to beat on. Put it in the socket. Take a hammer beat on the back of the bolt and knock the bearing out.... Or jam the extension against something and turn the wheel
I thought you werent supposed to use impact with these types of presses.
Put tire back on and beat it with a long handle sledge
Why not a slide hammer?
Isn't this kind of thing why slide hammers were invented though?
I wonder if lisle is in the spindle selling business?
I don't understand why not just get a slide hammer and the tool to connect to the hub and just yank it right out
Hub shocker is better
Yeah... I don't like that design. Too much torsional force. I'll stick with the slide hammer puller.
What you get for buying junk lezbaru
I,m use reverse hammer.
Subaru makes a hub tool kit to remove bearings and install
Why not just use a slide hammer?
The tool looks backwards to me
Couldn’t you reverse the bracket head and push off the center shaft?
No…
5 ton jaw puller have that off in a two shakes every time
Seems like you didn't even try
That spindle ain't aluminum
Take it off and use a hydraulic press those bearings are huge
Yeah not worth it to push on the ear and she bend them a little bit then it's going to piss you off more or less and got some money to replace that knuckle
Use a slide hammer guy
I didn’t think for one second that thing was going to work 😒
Had the tool set up backwards. It's designed to push off the axle shaft or brake rotor, if brake rotor is going to be replace.
WRONG.
Slide hammer all day long
Haha, 99% rust free? Looks like the under side of My 96 Bronco, granted It's lived in a desert it's whole life but the winters and lots of off roading in its life, I can't believe that's a 5 year old Subaru.
Just hit with a sleage hammer