One thing that will make it easier to get the new wires in, is when you pull out the old wires, pull in a piece of fishing line with it. Then all you have to do is pull the new wires back in.
Good video. I just took mine off for the second time in two years. The first time the armature of the motor was dirty and after cleaning it worked fine. This time it looks like the same problem so I will replace the entire motor. One thing you should mention is the pain it is to get to the two rear cap screws to take the motor off. The other thing I believe to be true is that when the positive is on the blue and the negative on the green, that operates the up function. When positive is on the green and negative to the blue, it is the down function. Blue sky, green grass.
Excellent video thank you, I have now fixed my (Australian) F80BETL with your help. My trim motor was simply dirty and works fine after a clean and quick 1200 wet and dry sand of the commutator (the outboard only has 100 hours on it). I have the feeling a lot of motors are replaced/trashed when all that's needed is a clean. I was able to remove the trim motor in place without releasing either of the trim pivot pins no worries. You just need a good 1/4 drive allan key socket and 5 to 6 inch extension and a racket. An extra long allen key should also do the job. As per Joel Sumral below I tied builders cord (strong braided nylon string) to the wires before they were pulled out. Then you can put the wires back into place more easily. Another TH-camr suggests using vice grips on the shaft to help installing the stator assembly.- I have a vice which greatly assisted the reassembly. After installing the armature in the base I clamped the drive shaft in the vice before installing the stator assembly. Make sure you use soft jaw guards in you vice though. Mine are aluminium. I clamped the base in the vice to install the armature. I used a pair of circlip pliers to hold the brushes apart so the armature could be dropped in. Thanks again.
@@kirkmenier1612 I'm in the nsw hunter valley. I ended up buying a replacement trim motor from the US because mine only worked OK for a while then would only work sometimes. I think there was a broken wire somewhere. Anyhow To clean disassemble the motor and use compressed air to blow away any dust or dirt. I had to wash the armature with metho and a 25mm paint brush after using 1200 wet ant dry to polish the commutator.
This was great help, The hard part was lifting engine up, used long ball type Allen wrench on back bolts use small piece of cloth in allen screw to hold bolt on wrench
I wish I watched this video before I replaced mine. Bought from the same manufacturer as you. I used there o-ring without thought. Flushing my trim out now as after 4 trips I found water intrusion @ the o-ring.
Wrong on the wiring... The trim motor is grounded through the motor bracket. Blue wire is positive. When 12 volts is applied it trims up. Green wire is also positive. When 12 volts is applied it trims down.
Ohhh no not db electrical there’s are terrible parts . Also, only reason why the old O-ring is thicker is because it has swelled in hydraulic fluid. I would also recommend extracting all the fluid and putting all new fluid in while you have the chance.
nice vid! My 2004 F90's motor is rusted so bad I'm just waiting for it to fail, strange that this is the only portion of my tilt and trim to have rust.....I wonder if the motor is giving it some sort of galvanic corrosion and the motor housing is the sacrificial anode? Right now the motor has over 900 hours and still going strong.
@@richardjones1777 same thing on my 01’. It looks like there is just a cover that is separate where the two Phillips screws are. That’s all that rusted on mine but can’t imagine they will come out on this salty pig. Anyone just replaced the cover?
Great video, jus a question I have the same issue but mine works when I trim it down but trimming up I have to press the switch few times.. But if I use the switch from gear stick it also works fine up n down. What could be the issue?
@@DainichiKichi Duh,,I'll be alright. Ya I did and it popped up immediately and on Amazon too. Did you have a dead short when you tested across the green and blue wire?
Actually I ended up disassembling the motor and replaced the brushes as 1 of the wires were badly corroded. I had to custom fit the brushes but it was a simple fix. Cheers.
Yeah how was the reliability??? I'm fixing to do this exact trim motor replacement on my Yamaha 90 and want to know if everything panned out ok after a few months of use?
Yeah how was the reliability??? I'm fixing to do this exact trim motor replacement on my Yamaha 90 and want to know if everything panned out ok after a few months of use?
Degrease/clean the trim motor and surrounds first then use a 1/4 drive allen key socket (5mm), 5-6 inch extension and a good ratchet or a long allan key. You might need good light, I did. I also had to (masking) tape the back bolts to the socket so the bolt didn't drop off to get them back in. Was pretty easy really.
EXCELLENT video!!! Just replaced my motor today and it works like a champ now! Many thanks!
Thanks for the video. I just replaced my 75 hp 4 stroke trim motor with a trim motor from D & B and it works like a champ. Probably saved 800$.
Went in for a quote last summer $1200 (using OEM). Replace it myself today for under $100. Thanks for the video!
Fix it yourself and save a grand! Use that $ for fuel.
One thing that will make it easier to get the new wires in, is when you pull out the old wires, pull in a piece of fishing line with it. Then all you have to do is pull the new wires back in.
Good video. I just took mine off for the second time in two years. The first time the armature of the motor was dirty and after cleaning it worked fine. This time it looks like the same problem so I will replace the entire motor. One thing you should mention is the pain it is to get to the two rear cap screws to take the motor off.
The other thing I believe to be true is that when the positive is on the blue and the negative on the green, that operates the up function. When positive is on the green and negative to the blue, it is the down function. Blue sky, green grass.
tdematteo01 you’re right, those 2 rear hex screws were not easy since you can’t really see them but it’s not impossible.
@@DainichiKichi mind telling us all HOW?? or are you guys just wanting to keep that secret to yourselves? lol
@@Ghaleon69hex extension.
Excellent video thank you, I have now fixed my (Australian) F80BETL with your help. My trim motor was simply dirty and works fine after a clean and quick 1200 wet and dry sand of the commutator (the outboard only has 100 hours on it).
I have the feeling a lot of motors are replaced/trashed when all that's needed is a clean.
I was able to remove the trim motor in place without releasing either of the trim pivot pins no worries. You just need a good 1/4 drive allan key socket and 5 to 6 inch extension and a racket.
An extra long allen key should also do the job.
As per Joel Sumral below I tied builders cord (strong braided nylon string) to the wires before they were pulled out. Then you can put the wires back into place more easily.
Another TH-camr suggests using vice grips on the shaft to help installing the stator assembly.- I have a vice which greatly assisted the reassembly. After installing the armature in the base I clamped the drive shaft in the vice before installing the stator assembly. Make sure you use soft jaw guards in you vice though. Mine are aluminium.
I clamped the base in the vice to install the armature. I used a pair of circlip pliers to hold the brushes apart so the armature could be dropped in.
Thanks again.
Sorry racket=ratchet
@@BrianKay-ll2cv Where is it located and how did you clean it?
@@kirkmenier1612 I'm in the nsw hunter valley. I ended up buying a replacement trim motor from the US because mine only worked OK for a while then would only work sometimes. I think there was a broken wire somewhere. Anyhow To clean disassemble the motor and use compressed air to blow away any dust or dirt. I had to wash the armature with metho and a 25mm paint brush after using 1200 wet ant dry to polish the commutator.
This was great help, The hard part was lifting engine up, used long ball type Allen wrench on back bolts use small piece of cloth in allen screw to hold bolt on wrench
I wish I watched this video before I replaced mine. Bought from the same manufacturer as you. I used there o-ring without thought. Flushing my trim out now as after 4 trips I found water intrusion @ the o-ring.
You can order a replacement O ring from Yamaha.
Wrong on the wiring...
The trim motor is grounded through the motor bracket.
Blue wire is positive. When 12 volts is applied it trims up.
Green wire is also positive. When 12 volts is applied it trims down.
up sky down grass
Thank you!!! Excellent video and explanation!!
Glad it was helpful!
Ohhh no not db electrical there’s are terrible parts . Also, only reason why the old O-ring is thicker is because it has swelled in hydraulic fluid. I would also recommend extracting all the fluid and putting all new fluid in while you have the chance.
What is the wire running out and zip tied next to the trim wiring on the exterior of the motor?
After installing the trim motor, did you have to add trim fluid? Or was there enough to go from there?
nice vid! My 2004 F90's motor is rusted so bad I'm just waiting for it to fail, strange that this is the only portion of my tilt and trim to have rust.....I wonder if the motor is giving it some sort of galvanic corrosion and the motor housing is the sacrificial anode? Right now the motor has over 900 hours and still going strong.
Same thing on my 2013 f70
Same thing my 2016 f115
@@richardjones1777 same thing on my 01’. It looks like there is just a cover that is separate where the two Phillips screws are. That’s all that rusted on mine but can’t imagine they will come out on this salty pig. Anyone just replaced the cover?
Good video. Is the fluid inside the motor housing water or hydraulic fluid? And is that normal?
Hydraulic
Great video!!!!!!!!!!
Great video, jus a question I have the same issue but mine works when I trim it down but trimming up I have to press the switch few times.. But if I use the switch from gear stick it also works fine up n down. What could be the issue?
@Crs Prker from what your saying it seems like the issue is the switch. Switch the wiring and see if the switch is bad.
@@DainichiKichi thanks for the reply, I'll have a look.
About to do this job, is it hard to get to the hex screws to remove?
Thank you for your video it was very informative what year is your 90 horsepower four-stroke Yamaha outboard motor?
2007
@@DainichiKichi THANK YOU!
2004 that's making crazy weird noises you think it's probably due for the trim and tilt motor change? I added fluid and it's working again.
@@dcrican762 most likely will need a replacement motor. Use it until it dies.
@@DainichiKichi Thank You.
Great video, I have the same problem with the exact motor, can I have the link where you ordered it from please? Cheers from Canada.
eBay search for it.
@@DainichiKichi Duh,,I'll be alright. Ya I did and it popped up immediately and on Amazon too. Did you have a dead short when you tested across the green and blue wire?
Actually I ended up disassembling the motor and replaced the brushes as 1 of the wires were badly corroded. I had to custom fit the brushes but it was a simple fix. Cheers.
Do you have to drain the fluid before changing the motor?
Hi thanks for your video, do you have the link to the electrical company that manufactures it?
@Lic. Felipe Romo it’s on eBay look for it using the part number from the video.
Yeah how was the reliability??? I'm fixing to do this exact trim motor replacement on my Yamaha 90 and want to know if everything panned out ok after a few months of use?
Still using it in saltwater. No issues yet.
Did you make out okay using the old factory o-ring?
Yeah how was the reliability??? I'm fixing to do this exact trim motor replacement on my Yamaha 90 and want to know if everything panned out ok after a few months of use?
Yes I prefer the OEM Yamaha Oring than the Chinese one.
Thinking of going with the aftermarket motor route as well due the huge price diff to the oem. Any regrets?
No regrets you’ll save yourself $500. I had the original one repaired by a local motor shop, the problem was bad brushes. I’ll save it as a spare.
I have the same motor with the same problem.
Just pulled mine apart needs new brushes that’s it $50 all done
How in the heck did you get to the back right bolt? I think I’ve created some new bad words.
Degrease/clean the trim motor and surrounds first then use a 1/4 drive allen key socket (5mm), 5-6 inch extension and a good ratchet or a long allan key. You might need good light, I did.
I also had to (masking) tape the back bolts to the socket so the bolt didn't drop off to get them back in. Was pretty easy really.
Hello, can i have the link u bought the aftermarket trim motor.Thanks.
It’s on eBay search for it.
Here is the one I bought. Make sure you have the right year model for yours.
www.ebay.com/itm/362706337715
Why you got nail polish??
Cuando quiera le enseño a cambiarle las escobillas
What year model is that?
Kevin HeyMan 2007 F90.
Ямаха 70 АЕ . После трех лет эксплуатации в морской воде электромотор вышел из строя. Не такая она надёжная, эта ЯМАХА