EP has the best edited small engine repair video on TH-cam beating the other channels by miles. I like watching because of the quality and no waste of time watching due to your excellent editing technique. Thanks again for another quality video.
Thank you. This fixed my generator. Total resistance on old coil and cap was 18 ohms. Total on new was 6 ohms. Would only run 30 seconds. Now works great.
That was a great fix. I had a customer (Amish cabinet maker) that used the GX-160 in his shop vent fan system. He would get in touch with me and tell me no start. I went there 3 or 4 times and it started no issues. Finally I changed the coil and cap and no more issues. Many Thanks
A huge thanks for posting this find. I was getting exactly the same symptoms with a GX160 overheating after a few minutes and I couldn't figure out why. After watching your video, I tried replacing the plug cap rather than the coil and it immediately fixed the issue. The engine now runs perfectly and cool. I'm really grateful - the engine itself was in a toy car and getting access to the coil would have meant a lengthy stripdown!
Never thought of the spark plug cap. I have a friend with a small Toro snow thrower with the same problem. Starts and runs great, Shut it down and it wont start for about 10 minutes. Changed the coil and same issue. He changed his fuel from reg. unleaded to Stihl High performance Motomix 4 and now it starts all the time. Will have to look at the cap to see if there is an issue with it because it will save him a fortune on fuel. Thanks for the great video.
Great video! One suggestion would be to set your meter at 200 Ohms when testing the primary winding as the meter is not going to be sensitive enough to detect 0.8 - 1.0 Ohms at the 20K setting. That is the reason the meter reads 0.00 and shows no resistance.
Thank you for the great video. My pressure washer was not having this problem but would not start. I found it in the shed upside down, I must not have put it away on shelf correctly and it got knocked off. It would not start next time so I cleaned carb and new air filter and spark plug they where all full of oil. Still would not start, ignition coil was next item to check, you stated oil sensor cut off sensor or switch. I had to go out in middle of night and checked oil level. Low oil, added oil and fired up first pull. Thanks
From my experience ----- While testing the Primary at 6:42---7:26, the multimeter should be on 200 ohm range [not 20K]. The 200 ohm dial setting will give a more TRUE resistance reading of the Primary winding on the ignition coil. That has been my experience. Thanks deg44401
The 200ohm setting won't test above 200ohms, so if I'm testing for 3000-5000ohms the 2000 ohm setting wouldn't work either. This isn't a smart meter that auto configures, it's just a cheap one
What I'm saying is that the Primary winding doesn't need to test above 200 ---- only 0.8 - 1.0 ohm, which is way below the 200 ohm max for that range setting. If the primary has [say] 10 times the resistance that it should be [say 8 - 10 ohms], the 200 ohm range setting may be able to detect that. 1.0 or 10 ohms [or maybe even 20 ohms] of resistance on a 20K range will most likely read zero, depending on the accuracy of the meter and the resistance of the test leads themselves. That has been my experience.
old cars from the 1950's had screw in "noise suppressors", to limit interference with car radios. when i inherited a 1955 Wolseley 6/90 from my in-laws (may they RIP), i discovered the fitted suppressors ranged from 5K Ohm to 15K Ohm, thus the six cylinder was running a bit rough. the 5K is probably built into the spark plug cap so that you don't piss off the neighbors with TV or radio interference when running the engine.
7:15 a cheap multimeter in the 20k range won't be able to resolve 0.8 ohms. It will just round down since the lowest value with 2 decimal places is 10 ohms. Set to 10 ohm mode and it should read correctly.
If you unscrew the brass piece inside the cap there's a resistor or something inside my cap that is reading 10 k ohms + . My coil reads ok. So I've ordered a new cap assuming it should read half that.
I have worked on Tecumseh, Briggs and Wisconsin engines for 45 years....never seen a SPACER in ONE for vapor locks. The carb in most ran within an inch or two of the mufflers in a lot of those old engines. I think the plastic spacer is more likely intended to crack and fail than anything else....like most of the crap hanging off these new engines.
I needed that information! Been working on an old Champion Compressor with a Briggs 5 hp I.C. engine but was unsure about how the throttle down works. Apparently, the bull whip is missing. Need to get one. Thanks for the video!
Nothing wrong with that spark plug cap you binned, it just had a 10k resistor in it to reduce Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) - the stuff that makes that RPM meter you were using work.
Yep I just bought a new cap and it reads 10.34 ohms same as my old one also my new coil straight from honda has a reading of 10.80 ohms which is out of spec. According to hinda which makes no sense?
I unscrewed the brass cap in the coil and found a pill resistor. Read 9k and found a used one from a rogue coil at 1.9 k ohms. Total 8k ohms. Primary at 1.1. Engine still doesn’t stay running. I Gave up. I’m just going to order a coil and carburetor
I doubt that coils are intermittent. Most likely, the flywheel magnet has weakened a bit and you're not getting enough voltage to jump the spark gap. Try reducing the plug gap so it takes less voltage to make a spark.
Ran the spark plug at 0.030" and the proper spec on the armature air gap for coil, machine hasn't come back in for anything, my customer says it runs like new again!
I have also seen if the engine is not used for a couple of weeks ,the fuel leaks passed the shut off and needle and seat into the cylinder than into the oil . the same poor running or worse depend on the amount of fuel in the oil . keep an eye on oil level if it is high check fuel. level .
My mower runs Great Cuts great no problem but after running for awhile if I shut it off manually and try to restart it when it's hot it won't start. The strange thing is it's running absolutely perfect no surging nothing the carburetor is clean as a whistle however if I spray carb cleaner in there it will start and then continue to run it's almost like there's a Welch plug missing or something in the carb I don't know if there's a low speed circuit I don't understand why the engine runs perfect while it's running but if I shut it off it just simply won't start back up is boggling my mind but I'm leaning towards of bad coil
Those are the hardest problems to solve. I'd get yourself a gap type spark tester. Then you can test how much spark you get cold, and then again when it's hot. At least you can replicate your problem, over and over to test. Sometimes I get machines where a customer says it randomly shuts off, and it runs fine for me lol if you can't replicate the issue, that's when it's the worst! Good luck!
@@EliminatorPerformance thanx for the help...i do know that when the engine is running the coil is kept cool from the flywheel fins blowing air on it...i am thinking when i shut it down it "heat soaks" and then has very little poor spark if any at all... I will report back here if i solve the problem because i believe it is so important to help others diagnose a problem if we record what actually fixed it...especially these very tough problems to fix that we dont see every day.
After tinkering with this all weekend i think i finally got it...most small engine problems are carburetor related and this one i believe was the carb too... I replaced coil with a used one and that didnt work...tested for spark and had great spark after it got hot and wouldn't restart....compression was the same cold and hot....so i leaned towards it being fuel related.... Took apart carb and there is a small brass jet/port on the air filter side of the carb....im assuming this is an air metering port because of where it is placed....i sprayed carb cleaner in it and it would just spray back so figures it was clogged....took the b string off a guitar and ran it through then sprayed through and it came out the bottom of the carb into the bowl....started back up and ran and then i tested it and got it to start hot....still acts kind of funny but it wouldn't even start hot at all before unless i sprayed carb cleaner in....these quantum engines naturally run on the richer side because the main fuel jet is much larger then the newer carbs or even the Honda's....this means if something small is causing it to run even more rich you won't know it unless you have a hot start issue like i had....hot engine NEEDS more air (leaner mixture)....
Thank you. I’ve been watching too many of these videos and trying to figure out why all three of my coils from different machines are reading 000 and Finally you point this out so now I know I’m not as insane as I thought I was. I also learned today that the small engine shop that’s been in town for many many years doesn’t even check this or know how apparently. They just change the coil if everything else works.
Having trouble with my GX390 starving for fuel and pushing vapor back up into the tank after about 30 min. I put a clear fuel filter between the tank and the carb and it goes empty. If I pull off the hose and put it back on it run a little while. Also if I keep the tank full it doesn't do it because of the pressure I assume. I put on a new carb no change. I have never seen this on Honda's. Do you have any suggestions? I'm about to put on a new coil.
Why there is so much resistance on a spark plug boot ?? Does the boot have resistive material inside ?? This really puts pressure on the coil to make as much juice as possible Then you have resistance inside the spark plug. The engineer who designed this system must have had a bad day for sure. I am no expert but a small coil like this really does not have that much swype for sure. Can you buy a spark cap without resistance ?? Thanks Eliminator
This motor powers a lot of things. Too bad the RV Rover didn't make it. Neat moon rover thing you use like a resort/golf cart but it folds up into a cube to stow on the back of a vehicle. Built amazingly. This motor is getting old, tho, and randomly shuts down but starts right back up again.
I notice the cap in the video says for GX120, GX160, etc.. I have a GX110 behaving similarly and ive checked or replaced everything fuel-related. Runs perfect for 30 seconds and slows down until it dies. Can I use the same part for a GX110? Those are more widely available it seems. Great video. Thanks.
Okay my Honda engine does the same thing shuts off randomly went hot it's on a leaf vacuum system and it drives me crazy cuz I have to keep getting off the tractor. first pull starts right up. I checked my spark plug boot and it also has a high 10,000 ohm resistance I ordered a new one if this fixes it you'll be the best guy I've ever.
I just discovered your channel and subscribed. great content and superb editing. I have a related question regarding an ignition coil issue on a Scag Turf Tiger with a Kawasaki FD791D engine that has 1400 hours on it but has been well maintained. The issue: It will start up just fine and run for 2 hours or so and then will lose power and die-unless I can disengage the blades and put it in neutral fast enough to prevent it from dieing. If I shut it down and wait 2-3 minutes, I can start it up again, but after 12-14 minutes (and it’s very consistent within this time frame) it will lose power, sputter, and want to die again. I can shut it down and wait the 2-3 minutes and start it up again over and over and it will restart easily, but will always die after12-14 minutes. From my limited experience, this seems like a coil issue, but I’d like your opinion. Getting to the coil to test it is not easy-it appears to require removing the radiator to access it. But if that’s what is necessary, I’ll do it. What do you think?
thanks i just got some go karts and learning about the gx 160 and 200's I found on one of my karts the spark plug wire melted and shorting out to the block .. the coil is dead.. no spark at all. so i swapped coils from my old stock of parts and looks like i have spark. im going to remove it and do the test like you did in the video. im not good with electric it confuses me .. but i believe your video will help me even if i need to watch it 7 times.... one of the caps came off the wire and i was afraid i broke the coil ... woo thanks for letting me know the caps are removable.. lol . Im hoping to get a few of the engines running but it seems they all had Head issues.. valves were stuck in the valve guides. Some of them were missing the valve guide seals which is why the valve seized into the head. 1 engine has a broken rocker and bent push rod. i got them all freed up and going to try and install the nicest one back on the engine. I need a rebuild kit for the head.
i am vorking on a honda gx 160 2018. have checht the tlming kamshaft and crankshaft god. clend tht carburator. have spark but in vount start. tried petrol and gas in the airintake.wath do do? sorry for my spelling.
Thanks for an informative video. I had a 13HP Honda on a pressure washer that would run for about 7 minutes and then quit. You could almost put a stop watch on it. Ha Ha It turned out to be a defective spark plug.
Great vid. Your testing of the primary is wrong. Firstly you need to set your meter to the 200 Ohm range for such a low resistance but even then you wll not get a reliable reading because the contact resistance of the probes and meter switch are of a comparable range. There is a way to take low Ohm measurements without needing the proper specialised meter. You will need this method too to measure the resistances of generator windings. send me an email if you want an explanation. I'm a retired marine electrician.
Any recommendations for a gx160 that's near impossible to start? Carbhas been cleaned and rebuilt. Spark is there. I can get it to run... I'm just going to blow out my shoulder if it keeps starting so difficultly.
I have a gx 120 that starts them runs for 10 seconds and quits. I have set the valves, changed the coil, and spark plug cap, changed the carb. Bypassed the low oil switch , and it still starts and dies. Could it be the automatic decompression spring is faulty ,Iam stumped . Have you ever run into this problem ? Thanks .
I am having problems on my gx200 on a pressure washer. Replaced carb and fuel filter and spark plug and oil change.Got it to finally fire up. But after 2 minutes it dies like it’s running out of gas. Possibly a bad low oil sensor? Or should I be looking into the coil and plug cap?
Service manual will give specs, so go to Google and type in the model, and then type service manual after. This is a STENS coil, so it's not OEM but it's not china crap either.
can anyone give me some advice? I have a Honda GX160 there is an acceleration problem. When I throw the throtle to max it will struggle for a good minute. The unit is on a plate tamper which is operated with an automatic clutch. at idel there is no load and as it accelerates the clutch grabs ahold and it begins to run the exciter/viabrator. this is where it will not accelerate to its potential. I have checked the valve clearance, cleaned the carb, check my fuel supply, changed spark plugs, adjusted the governor. The compression is at 100 psi with the exhaust valve disabled. Could this be a coil problem similar to what your talking about in this video? Great video by the way.
Absolutely could be, but I'd start with the spark plug cap 1st, as shown that original had too much resistance! Also take off the air filter and see if it runs the same.
Hi! Great video! A couple of years ago I bought a power generator that has been running great until last week. It ran for 3 hours and then stopped and Doesn’t want to start up. I put fresh fuel, I cleaned the carburetor jets (everything was really clean and brand new), I also tried spraying some gasoline through the carburetor and also with a a quick start spray without luck. The spark plug is making a nice and strong spark arc, the oil level is fine as well as the sensor. I checked all the cables and everything seems fine. I just don’t know what else to do! If there is spark (and a strong one) and there is fuel inside, why isn’t it starting? Oh and when I pull, there seems to be good compression... Any ideas? Thanks!
I purchase a Chinese replacement coil for the GX390, looks like the same coil as yours. I'm noticing the coil only puts out spark when the RPM is low, like pulling slowly on the rope. The faster I spin the flywheel, the less spark I get until there is none. What do you think?
@@EliminatorPerformance I noticed this by accident. When I would hand-spin the flywheel with the slug out, to check for spark, it worked. So I put it all back together and nearly pulled my arm off trying to start it. That's when I saw that if I pulled the cord out normally fast, like you do to start any engine, I get little to no spark. If I pull on it slower, like if I'm not even trying, the spark is there. I've never seen this either! The old American Briggs/Stratton & Tecumseh's never acted like this.
EP has the best edited small engine repair video on TH-cam beating the other channels by miles. I like watching because of the quality and no waste of time watching due to your excellent editing technique. Thanks again for another quality video.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. This fixed my generator. Total resistance on old coil and cap was 18 ohms. Total on new was 6 ohms. Would only run 30 seconds. Now works great.
That was a great fix. I had a customer (Amish cabinet maker) that used the GX-160 in his shop vent fan system. He would get in touch with me and tell me no start. I went there 3 or 4 times and it started no issues. Finally I changed the coil and cap and no more issues. Many Thanks
Thanks for watching Waterman one!
A huge thanks for posting this find. I was getting exactly the same symptoms with a GX160 overheating after a few minutes and I couldn't figure out why.
After watching your video, I tried replacing the plug cap rather than the coil and it immediately fixed the issue. The engine now runs perfectly and cool.
I'm really grateful - the engine itself was in a toy car and getting access to the coil would have meant a lengthy stripdown!
Awesome, glad to hear this helped out! Thanks for watching!
And if it's not too much to ask, consider leaving me a Google review, it would really help me out!
You just made my day I was struggling for two months with the same problem
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
Never thought of the spark plug cap. I have a friend with a small Toro snow thrower with the same problem. Starts and runs great, Shut it down and it wont start for about 10 minutes. Changed the coil and same issue. He changed his fuel from reg. unleaded to Stihl High performance Motomix 4 and now it starts all the time. Will have to look at the cap to see if there is an issue with it because it will save him a fortune on fuel. Thanks for the great video.
Great video! One suggestion would be to set your meter at 200 Ohms when testing the primary winding as the meter is not going to be sensitive enough to detect 0.8 - 1.0 Ohms at the 20K setting. That is the reason the meter reads 0.00 and shows no resistance.
Makes sense and thank you 🙏
Thank you for the great video. My pressure washer was not having this problem but would not start. I found it in the shed upside down, I must not have put it away on shelf correctly and it got knocked off. It would not start next time so I cleaned carb and new air filter and spark plug they where all full of oil. Still would not start, ignition coil was next item to check, you stated oil sensor cut off sensor or switch. I had to go out in middle of night and checked oil level. Low oil, added oil and fired up first pull. Thanks
Awesome, sometimes can be the last things we check, like finding keys, always the last place you look lol thanks for watching!
From my experience ----- While testing the Primary at 6:42---7:26, the multimeter should be on 200 ohm range [not 20K]. The 200 ohm dial setting will give a more TRUE resistance reading of the Primary winding on the ignition coil. That has been my experience. Thanks deg44401
The 200ohm setting won't test above 200ohms, so if I'm testing for 3000-5000ohms the 2000 ohm setting wouldn't work either. This isn't a smart meter that auto configures, it's just a cheap one
What I'm saying is that the Primary winding doesn't need to test above 200 ---- only 0.8 - 1.0 ohm, which is way below the 200 ohm max for that range setting. If the primary has [say] 10 times the resistance that it should be [say 8 - 10 ohms], the 200 ohm range setting may be able to detect that. 1.0 or 10 ohms [or maybe even 20 ohms] of resistance on a 20K range will most likely read zero, depending on the accuracy of the meter and the resistance of the test leads themselves. That has been my experience.
old cars from the 1950's had screw in "noise suppressors", to limit interference with car radios.
when i inherited a 1955 Wolseley 6/90 from my in-laws (may they RIP), i discovered the fitted suppressors ranged from 5K Ohm to 15K Ohm, thus the six cylinder was running a bit rough.
the 5K is probably built into the spark plug cap so that you don't piss off the neighbors with TV or radio interference when running the engine.
Yep and I was hell on radio in vehicle if you didn’t have it
Lololo good old days and 0.75 a hour
Exact same issue on my generator thanks for the tip on the plug cap
Anytime, thanks for watching!
Fantastic explanation. I am subscribed and watching all your videos this weekend. I am sure I will be learning a ton of stuff. Thx
7:15 a cheap multimeter in the 20k range won't be able to resolve 0.8 ohms. It will just round down since the lowest value with 2 decimal places is 10 ohms. Set to 10 ohm mode and it should read correctly.
Well done! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Thanks for watching!
If you unscrew the brass piece inside the cap there's a resistor or something inside my cap that is reading 10 k ohms + . My coil reads ok. So I've ordered a new cap assuming it should read half that.
Note my brass piece inside the cap had notches for a straight blade scew driver.
@@briangoodale7167 I've never taken them apart, I get em for like $4 I think so I just replace them. Thanks for watching!
I have worked on Tecumseh, Briggs and Wisconsin engines for 45 years....never seen a SPACER in ONE for vapor locks. The carb in most ran within an inch or two of the mufflers in a lot of those old engines. I think the plastic spacer is more likely intended to crack and fail than anything else....like most of the crap hanging off these new engines.
Great job mate! Thanks for the sharing! I’ve got the same problem with my Honda! 🥳
I needed that information! Been working on an old Champion Compressor with a Briggs 5 hp I.C. engine but was unsure about how the throttle down works. Apparently, the bull whip is missing. Need to get one. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
I just tested the cap on our old Honda EG2500 generator, it reads 10.4 . That might be why I've had a hard time starting the damn thing lately.
Nothing wrong with that spark plug cap you binned, it just had a 10k resistor in it to reduce Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) - the stuff that makes that RPM meter you were using work.
Yep I just bought a new cap and it reads 10.34 ohms same as my old one also my new coil straight from honda has a reading of 10.80 ohms which is out of spec. According to hinda which makes no sense?
I unscrewed the brass cap in the coil and found a pill resistor. Read 9k and found a used one from a rogue coil at 1.9 k ohms. Total 8k ohms. Primary at 1.1. Engine still doesn’t stay running. I Gave up. I’m just going to order a coil and carburetor
6:57. It isn’t coming in lower than spec. Your cheap multimeter isn’t able to read that low.
I doubt that coils are intermittent. Most likely, the flywheel magnet has weakened a bit and you're not getting enough voltage to jump the spark gap. Try reducing the plug gap so it takes less voltage to make a spark.
Ran the spark plug at 0.030" and the proper spec on the armature air gap for coil, machine hasn't come back in for anything, my customer says it runs like new again!
Right-on !!!! Great job and testing.
Thanks for watching!
Good diagnostics.
I have also seen if the engine is not used for a couple of weeks ,the fuel leaks passed the shut off and needle and seat into the cylinder than into the oil . the same poor running or worse depend on the amount of fuel in the oil . keep an eye on oil level if it is high check fuel. level .
Very very helpful video, thank you very much
My mower runs Great Cuts great no problem but after running for awhile if I shut it off manually and try to restart it when it's hot it won't start. The strange thing is it's running absolutely perfect no surging nothing the carburetor is clean as a whistle however if I spray carb cleaner in there it will start and then continue to run it's almost like there's a Welch plug missing or something in the carb I don't know if there's a low speed circuit I don't understand why the engine runs perfect while it's running but if I shut it off it just simply won't start back up is boggling my mind but I'm leaning towards of bad coil
Those are the hardest problems to solve. I'd get yourself a gap type spark tester. Then you can test how much spark you get cold, and then again when it's hot. At least you can replicate your problem, over and over to test. Sometimes I get machines where a customer says it randomly shuts off, and it runs fine for me lol if you can't replicate the issue, that's when it's the worst! Good luck!
@@EliminatorPerformance thanx for the help...i do know that when the engine is running the coil is kept cool from the flywheel fins blowing air on it...i am thinking when i shut it down it "heat soaks" and then has very little poor spark if any at all...
I will report back here if i solve the problem because i believe it is so important to help others diagnose a problem if we record what actually fixed it...especially these very tough problems to fix that we dont see every day.
After tinkering with this all weekend i think i finally got it...most small engine problems are carburetor related and this one i believe was the carb too...
I replaced coil with a used one and that didnt work...tested for spark and had great spark after it got hot and wouldn't restart....compression was the same cold and hot....so i leaned towards it being fuel related....
Took apart carb and there is a small brass jet/port on the air filter side of the carb....im assuming this is an air metering port because of where it is placed....i sprayed carb cleaner in it and it would just spray back so figures it was clogged....took the b string off a guitar and ran it through then sprayed through and it came out the bottom of the carb into the bowl....started back up and ran and then i tested it and got it to start hot....still acts kind of funny but it wouldn't even start hot at all before unless i sprayed carb cleaner in....these quantum engines naturally run on the richer side because the main fuel jet is much larger then the newer carbs or even the Honda's....this means if something small is causing it to run even more rich you won't know it unless you have a hot start issue like i had....hot engine NEEDS more air (leaner mixture)....
First coil is tested on range of ohms, not kilo ohms. U”ll get normal figure. About 1-3ohms
Thank you.
I’ve been watching too many of these videos and trying to figure out why all three of my coils from different machines are reading 000 and Finally you point this out so now I know I’m not as insane as I thought I was.
I also learned today that the small engine shop that’s been in town for many many years doesn’t even check this or know how apparently. They just change the coil if everything else works.
Very interesting video and nicely done! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks really informative and fast info about the important things...
Thanks for watching Henrik!
Having trouble with my GX390 starving for fuel and pushing vapor back up into the tank after about 30 min. I put a clear fuel filter between the tank and the carb and it goes empty. If I pull off the hose and put it back on it run a little while. Also if I keep the tank full it doesn't do it because of the pressure I assume. I put on a new carb no change. I have never seen this on Honda's. Do you have any suggestions? I'm about to put on a new coil.
Thanks
Good job! Thanks for the upload :)
Thanks for watching!
Why there is so much resistance on a spark plug boot ?? Does the boot have resistive material inside ?? This really puts pressure on the coil to make as much juice as possible Then you have resistance inside the spark plug. The engineer who designed this system must have had a bad day for sure. I am no expert but a small coil like this really does not have that much swype for sure. Can you buy a spark cap without resistance ?? Thanks Eliminator
This motor powers a lot of things. Too bad the RV Rover didn't make it. Neat moon rover thing you use like a resort/golf cart but it folds up into a cube to stow on the back of a vehicle. Built amazingly. This motor is getting old, tho, and randomly shuts down but starts right back up again.
I have same compressor and the throttle control doesn’t snaps back as you should in your video
Can you tell me what is wron
Watch this it might help th-cam.com/video/lnECOl6-R4Q/w-d-xo.html
I notice the cap in the video says for GX120, GX160, etc.. I have a GX110 behaving similarly and ive checked or replaced everything fuel-related. Runs perfect for 30 seconds and slows down until it dies. Can I use the same part for a GX110? Those are more widely available it seems. Great video. Thanks.
Okay my Honda engine does the same thing shuts off randomly went hot it's on a leaf vacuum system and it drives me crazy cuz I have to keep getting off the tractor. first pull starts right up. I checked my spark plug boot and it also has a high 10,000 ohm resistance I ordered a new one if this fixes it you'll be the best guy I've ever.
I just discovered your channel and subscribed. great content and superb editing. I have a related question regarding an ignition coil issue on a Scag Turf Tiger with a Kawasaki FD791D engine that has 1400 hours on it but has been well maintained. The issue: It will start up just fine and run for 2 hours or so and then will lose power and die-unless I can disengage the blades and put it in neutral fast enough to prevent it from dieing. If I shut it down and wait 2-3 minutes, I can start it up again, but after 12-14 minutes (and it’s very consistent within this time frame) it will lose power, sputter, and want to die again. I can shut it down and wait the 2-3 minutes and start it up again over and over and it will restart easily, but will always die after12-14 minutes. From my limited experience, this seems like a coil issue, but I’d like your opinion. Getting to the coil to test it is not easy-it appears to require removing the radiator to access it. But if that’s what is necessary, I’ll do it. What do you think?
Same issue on my go kart I’m going to look at it tomorrow and see if this is the issue
Good luck!
Eliminator Performance I checked it today and it was the boot, I have one ordered
Hey man on this if the cable is lose will that make the engine shutoff
thanks i just got some go karts and learning about the gx 160 and 200's I found on one of my karts the spark plug wire melted and shorting out to the block .. the coil is dead.. no spark at all. so i swapped coils from my old stock of parts and looks like i have spark. im going to remove it and do the test like you did in the video. im not good with electric it confuses me .. but i believe your video will help me even if i need to watch it 7 times.... one of the caps came off the wire and i was afraid i broke the coil ... woo thanks for letting me know the caps are removable.. lol . Im hoping to get a few of the engines running but it seems they all had Head issues.. valves were stuck in the valve guides. Some of them were missing the valve guide seals which is why the valve seized into the head. 1 engine has a broken rocker and bent push rod.
i got them all freed up and going to try and install the nicest one back on the engine. I need a rebuild kit for the head.
i am vorking on a honda gx 160 2018. have checht the tlming kamshaft and crankshaft god. clend tht carburator. have spark but in vount start. tried petrol and gas in the airintake.wath do do? sorry for my spelling.
Thanks for an informative video.
I had a 13HP Honda on a pressure washer that would run for about 7 minutes and then quit. You could almost put a stop watch on it. Ha Ha It turned out to be a defective spark plug.
Great vid. Your testing of the primary is wrong. Firstly you need to set your meter to the 200 Ohm range for such a low resistance but even then you wll not get a reliable reading because the contact resistance of the probes and meter switch are of a comparable range. There is a way to take low Ohm measurements without needing the proper specialised meter. You will need this method too to measure the resistances of generator windings. send me an email if you want an explanation. I'm a retired marine electrician.
Any recommendations for a gx160 that's near impossible to start? Carbhas been cleaned and rebuilt. Spark is there. I can get it to run... I'm just going to blow out my shoulder if it keeps starting so difficultly.
Excellent
I have a gx 120 that starts them runs for 10 seconds and quits. I have set the valves, changed the coil, and spark plug cap, changed the carb. Bypassed the low oil switch , and it still starts and dies. Could it be the automatic decompression spring is faulty ,Iam stumped . Have you ever run into this problem ? Thanks .
I am having problems on my gx200 on a pressure washer. Replaced carb and fuel filter and spark plug and oil change.Got it to finally fire up. But after 2 minutes it dies like it’s running out of gas. Possibly a bad low oil sensor? Or should I be looking into the coil and plug cap?
Excellant videos ,helped me out many times, thanks
What is good compressions for the 6.5 engine? Mine is only 75 psi.
Is that a new oem coil or aftermarket and how do you know what the value for the engine is
Service manual will give specs, so go to Google and type in the model, and then type service manual after. This is a STENS coil, so it's not OEM but it's not china crap either.
Bro i just bought a honda GX390 it starts to overheat and gradually starts to slowdown then die should i replace the coil or only the cap?
can anyone give me some advice?
I have a Honda GX160 there is an acceleration problem. When I throw the throtle to max it will struggle for a good minute. The unit is on a plate tamper which is operated with an automatic clutch. at idel there is no load and as it accelerates the clutch grabs ahold and it begins to run the exciter/viabrator. this is where it will not accelerate to its potential.
I have checked the valve clearance, cleaned the carb, check my fuel supply, changed spark plugs, adjusted the governor. The compression is at 100 psi with the exhaust valve disabled. Could this be a coil problem similar to what your talking about in this video?
Great video by the way.
Absolutely could be, but I'd start with the spark plug cap 1st, as shown that original had too much resistance! Also take off the air filter and see if it runs the same.
These issues would relate to twin cylinders also yes.
Yes absolutely, thanks for watching!
Great guy 100 prentent
Hi! Great video!
A couple of years ago I bought a power generator that has been running great until last week. It ran for 3 hours and then stopped and Doesn’t want to start up.
I put fresh fuel, I cleaned the carburetor jets (everything was really clean and brand new), I also tried spraying some gasoline through the carburetor and also with a a quick start spray without luck. The spark plug is making a nice and strong spark arc, the oil level is fine as well as the sensor. I checked all the cables and everything seems fine. I just don’t know what else to do! If there is spark (and a strong one) and there is fuel inside, why isn’t it starting?
Oh and when I pull, there seems to be good compression...
Any ideas? Thanks!
Timing is off. Have you checked the flywheel key? What was the reading on the compression tester?
check tappets isnt too tight
MasterCraft= Canada 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏼
Wow thankyou ungle
I purchase a Chinese replacement coil for the GX390, looks like the same coil as yours. I'm noticing the coil only puts out spark when the RPM is low, like pulling slowly on the rope. The faster I spin the flywheel, the less spark I get until there is none. What do you think?
I'm honestly not too sure lol I've never heard this.
@@EliminatorPerformance I noticed this by accident. When I would hand-spin the flywheel with the slug out, to check for spark, it worked. So I put it all back together and nearly pulled my arm off trying to start it. That's when I saw that if I pulled the cord out normally fast, like you do to start any engine, I get little to no spark. If I pull on it slower, like if I'm not even trying, the spark is there. I've never seen this either! The old American Briggs/Stratton & Tecumseh's never acted like this.
Bad coil
Best to replace it every 4/5 year at least
I keep them in stock
Excellent !!
My gx160 engine over vibrations and engine bad sounds...
I like it help me
If it’s 5 years old just replace it and save your coil
I thought I was losing compression when it got hot turns out I had a bad carb needle and coil🙃🔫
My name bob
AU
Please.lagvag.hendi
Mobaile number moklo
Do you unplug the oil level sensor , prior to doing this test ? Do the oil level sensors fail as the coils do ? Thx