Hi David, thanks for another interesting insight into your guitar making. Do you use this method because it gives mor control over the traditional Spanish heel approach. Additionally, why not use your adjustable neck design with all the advantages it provides?
I use this method on Spanish style when I set the neck angle with the back. I show it in my Hauser style build CDRom and Rodriguez style build CDRom I build in many styles.
That's called a loose tenon - the tenon is loose rather than being part of one of the pieces and the mortise (hole) being the other. I guess that makes it a double mortice but technically furniture makers would use that name for something that has 2 holes with a piece that has 2 tenons to fit into it, so loose tenon it is.
La proyección correcta del mango es 7mm el diapasón con una caída de 1mm en los graves hacia el final ,proyectando la regla sobre el diapason sin trastes deve ser 4mm en el lugar del puente , 8mm el puente , altura total con la cajuela 11mm graves y 10mm agudos .
Maybe for your guitars, but not for mine. I use a 0.400" (10mm) saddle string height and a 0.110" first string action. I do not use a fretless fretboard. My surrogate fretboard blank includes my fret height. The method I demo gives me perfect 10mm saddle string height every time for my last 400 guitars that I have used this method on.
@@schrammguitars en su web apentricie on line explicaba dejar la proyección sobre la tapa en 6mm ,y 12 mm de altura total , el 90% de los guitarristas usa 4mm a 3.5mm de altura en el traste 12 con esa proyección de 6 mm tiene wue elevar la cajuela más de 12 mm y el toque que produce es efectivo según la regla de young y las cuerdas se ponen muy duras.
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I admire your direct, uncomplicated method(s). Your presentation is succinct, clear informative. Thanks You.
Thank you. I learned this from my mentor John Gilbert. This is just a variation of it.
Very clever! thank you so much for your videos 🙏
Thank you
Thanks for sharing this. I would be interested in a video how you cut the mortises for the neck to body joint please.
I think I have one, if not I will do one
Thank you. I found your video showing the mortice jig 👍 Do you use the same jig for the heel of the neck please?
@@thomaskeithlutheir ill do a video later today
Hi David, thanks for another interesting insight into your guitar making. Do you use this method because it gives mor control over the traditional Spanish heel approach. Additionally, why not use your adjustable neck design with all the advantages it provides?
I use this method on Spanish style when I set the neck angle with the back. I show it in my Hauser style build CDRom and Rodriguez style build CDRom I build in many styles.
That's called a loose tenon - the tenon is loose rather than being part of one of the pieces and the mortise (hole) being the other. I guess that makes it a double mortice but technically furniture makers would use that name for something that has 2 holes with a piece that has 2 tenons to fit into it, so loose tenon it is.
La proyección correcta del mango es 7mm el diapasón con una caída de 1mm en los graves hacia el final ,proyectando la regla sobre el diapason sin trastes deve ser 4mm en el lugar del puente , 8mm el puente , altura total con la cajuela 11mm graves y 10mm agudos .
Maybe for your guitars, but not for mine. I use a 0.400" (10mm) saddle string height and a 0.110" first string action. I do not use a fretless fretboard. My surrogate fretboard blank includes my fret height. The method I demo gives me perfect 10mm saddle string height every time for my last 400 guitars that I have used this method on.
@@schrammguitars en su web apentricie on line explicaba dejar la proyección sobre la tapa en 6mm ,y 12 mm de altura total , el 90% de los guitarristas usa 4mm a 3.5mm de altura en el traste 12 con esa proyección de 6 mm tiene wue elevar la cajuela más de 12 mm y el toque que produce es efectivo según la regla de young y las cuerdas se ponen muy duras.
David....double mortise and spline