You would be surprised how much down force soil can put on the cross member that bent. Those ripper points really have some suction once they bite in! On the tractor there is an adjustment for how quickly the 3 point will lower to match implement weights, just remember to tighten it up when you switch back to something heavy so it doesn't slam down. You can adjust the upper 3 pt link to different holes on the tractor to keep the angle correct. Generally the link should point 1-2 feet ahead of the front axle when at your operating height. Keep up the good work and look forward to more videos!
Maybe try adding a support that you can set the angle of the tool without having to change the angle with the top link as much. I feel that it can bend the top link when going all the way down and that wouldn't be a good thing.
You definitely dont want to have to much rigidity when putting your pipe in the "ground"!!! haha Also Ted whats the wirespool option look like or are you guys still working that part out? Thanks Definitely interested in this!!!
The geometry just isn’t setup for that big of a tractor. I agree the point needs more angle to get it to cut down and the beam should stay vertical. Having to lean it so far forward to get it to plunge down made the beam lean forward and allowed the top link to roll under. I would also recommend you test with the shear bolt in the small hole and make sure that it does shear anytime you are deep and either hit a rock or try to go more than 2 MPH. The medium hole would probably be fine for most applications. I think you’ll have angry customers if the 3pt arms rip off their new compact tractor and the shear bolt didn’t break. My old Ford subsoiler will shear grade 8 1/2” bolts in heavy dry clay like it was it’s job if my 70hp tractor is in 4WD. In 2WD, the rear tires will usually spin if I hit a root and break the bolt in 4WD.
@First Choice Mechanical I have a $1000 bet on the table that this thing works when it gets here. I'm delighted to hear David's viewpoint. If you don't want to hear it, then rather than stifle David's voice, how about you shut your ears and walk away? I was going to ask Ted (and maybe David if he has a thought) if the rate-of-drop knob should be turned to minimum to allow the ground to pull the shoe right down, rather than skim across the ground? Maybe it wouldn't need so much down angle.
When I watched the video, it looked to me like he didn’t have the down rate knob open all the way and that was hindering the plow digging, but the angle on the point just isn’t enough to get it to pull into the soil without leaning the top forward. Also moving the top link to the bottom hole on the tractor may have prevented the problem he had at the end. That type of subsoiler is meant to have the main beam stay vertical when at depth. Minute adjustments of the top link keep it straight for the depth you are plowing. It’s actually much trickier than just hitching it up and going. It’s like setting up a furrow plow to work correctly and efficiently. It takes some playing to get everything adjusted correctly for the tractor. I just don’t think they use subsoilers much in NC. Subsoilers are for breaking up hard pan so water can get down to the roots. Somehow I don’t think that is a huge problem there. He’ll get it figured out in short order though.
@First Choice Mechanical don’t for a second think that I’m putting anyone down here. I am a VERY loyal EA customer and I do have quite a bit of experience using subsoilers in very hard ground. I have spoken to Travis and Ted about improvements to a couple of implements I have purchased over the years. They have always been receptive to considered customer feedback.
Dude, you a hydraulic top link for this testing stuff. Why does he keep wanting to run a subsoiler in high range? That's not a desirable thing. Slow and steady, give the tractor the advantage and you have no idea what you're going to come in contact with as you cannot see underground.
You’ve got to love Ted’s Testing to failure philosophy!!
Keep up the great work so that we end up with the best 🇺🇸 made implements.
If Ted tested it it will last me a lifetime. LOL
I can't wait to get mine and I have a hydraulic top link, so I will be good to adjust on the fly to get it down much easier.
I like the honesty and real life experience. You have more credibility just showing the process.
One thing for sure , you guys always make things perfect . Good for you !
You would be surprised how much down force soil can put on the cross member that bent. Those ripper points really have some suction once they bite in!
On the tractor there is an adjustment for how quickly the 3 point will lower to match implement weights, just remember to tighten it up when you switch back to something heavy so it doesn't slam down.
You can adjust the upper 3 pt link to different holes on the tractor to keep the angle correct. Generally the link should point 1-2 feet ahead of the front axle when at your operating height.
Keep up the good work and look forward to more videos!
Ted, these videos always make me smile.
Teds quality assurance program is second to none
It looks like to me you need to spend more time in your tractor and less time in the office😅
Been waiting for this. It bent. Yes. I love testing. Great testing. 😊
that exhaust Regen sure look pain to deal with
Maybe try adding a support that you can set the angle of the tool without having to change the angle with the top link as much. I feel that it can bend the top link when going all the way down and that wouldn't be a good thing.
You definitely dont want to have to much rigidity when putting your pipe in the "ground"!!! haha Also Ted whats the wirespool option look like or are you guys still working that part out? Thanks Definitely interested in this!!!
The geometry just isn’t setup for that big of a tractor. I agree the point needs more angle to get it to cut down and the beam should stay vertical. Having to lean it so far forward to get it to plunge down made the beam lean forward and allowed the top link to roll under.
I would also recommend you test with the shear bolt in the small hole and make sure that it does shear anytime you are deep and either hit a rock or try to go more than 2 MPH. The medium hole would probably be fine for most applications. I think you’ll have angry customers if the 3pt arms rip off their new compact tractor and the shear bolt didn’t break.
My old Ford subsoiler will shear grade 8 1/2” bolts in heavy dry clay like it was it’s job if my 70hp tractor is in 4WD. In 2WD, the rear tires will usually spin if I hit a root and break the bolt in 4WD.
@First Choice Mechanical I have a $1000 bet on the table that this thing works when it gets here. I'm delighted to hear David's viewpoint. If you don't want to hear it, then rather than stifle David's voice, how about you shut your ears and walk away? I was going to ask Ted (and maybe David if he has a thought) if the rate-of-drop knob should be turned to minimum to allow the ground to pull the shoe right down, rather than skim across the ground? Maybe it wouldn't need so much down angle.
When I watched the video, it looked to me like he didn’t have the down rate knob open all the way and that was hindering the plow digging, but the angle on the point just isn’t enough to get it to pull into the soil without leaning the top forward. Also moving the top link to the bottom hole on the tractor may have prevented the problem he had at the end. That type of subsoiler is meant to have the main beam stay vertical when at depth. Minute adjustments of the top link keep it straight for the depth you are plowing. It’s actually much trickier than just hitching it up and going. It’s like setting up a furrow plow to work correctly and efficiently. It takes some playing to get everything adjusted correctly for the tractor.
I just don’t think they use subsoilers much in NC. Subsoilers are for breaking up hard pan so water can get down to the roots. Somehow I don’t think that is a huge problem there. He’ll get it figured out in short order though.
@First Choice Mechanical don’t for a second think that I’m putting anyone down here. I am a VERY loyal EA customer and I do have quite a bit of experience using subsoilers in very hard ground. I have spoken to Travis and Ted about improvements to a couple of implements I have purchased over the years. They have always been receptive to considered customer feedback.
1turn the sensitivity down 2 do a regen and then maybe you can use the tractor
Add a spool to it, if you buy say a 300', 500' roll of pipe.
Building better and growing your business... AWESOME! All with Peanuts son.
Your videos make me want to buy something from you folks.
Thanks! We'll be glad to assist. If you're on facebook, head over and join our group: facebook.com/groups/1232301603480909
Would adding a weight box on it help???
Dude, you a hydraulic top link for this testing stuff. Why does he keep wanting to run a subsoiler in high range? That's not a desirable thing. Slow and steady, give the tractor the advantage and you have no idea what you're going to come in contact with as you cannot see underground.
Its mainly to show you it wont just snap off, not that something that thick would but more not for its purpose more a test. I get it though
Stupid EPA regen bullshit ruins engines
I had a kubota r630 go through regen once and it died afterwards and wouldn’t start.
@@alanwhitten6523 Wow that’s crazy