Great video. I finally bought my own CRF300L last Saturday! I am so excited. I have only ridden it a little because it is so cold, but I love the bike. Already thinking of what mods I want to do and first up is definitely new bars. I am thinking the protaper CR High. I had those on an old DRZ and liked them a lot. Thanks for showing how to install!
Pro tip: When installing grips, attach an air hose to the end and fill the grip with air, it will inflate the grip and it will slide right on, even with glue.
Super helpful video, man! I watched a ton of your vids before recently scooping up my CRF250L! Actually just made an install video on these same bars lol. Subbed to see more 250L content💪💪
100% professional install with clear step by step instructions. Thank you, I know you wont do grip heaters but, have you any plans on doing extra lights.
Thx for ur reply! Btw i have the rally and i installed the YSS rear shock and upgraded Race Tech front suspension ( extra spring and upgraded fork oil- Transforms the bike makes the suspension a dream!, yet super comfy. It’s not springing anymore or bouncy it’s more comfortable sponge -the way it supposed to be to - Very affordable)
Just a idea for ya. If your control box happens to move on you, stick a eraser off of a number 2 pencil where that pin was. It will help keep it from rotating. 🙂
Thanks, I pulled my pin out- and on my tusk chub bars - it moves now with just hand pressure. I'll try the eraser trick since my pin was damaged removing it. Else I'll have to tape the bar up. On the switch assembly only the outer plastic makes contact with the bar. Mine is a 2018 rally it also had a hole on the throttle side. I did drill for throttle side after reconsidering my mistake.
Another way is go around the bar once with electrical tape. Gives the control something to 'bite' into when tightening up. Not a smooth as the bar so adds resistance to spinning.
Or a bit of double face gorilla tape (30lbs?) seems to work where the nub was. The black electrical tape would probably help as well. I didn’t want to drill holes in my new bars but in hindsight if I had to do it again, I would drill the small holes. It’s wouldn’t be difficult to do right.
Excellent video you’re such a good host! what’s the benefit of a metal throttle tube? Also if you loosen the throttle cable by the fuel injection how do you know the cable is the proper tension when you set it back to stock. Thx!!
The metal throttle tube isn’t really necessary, I can’t tell the difference myself. If you loosen the throttle cable by the injection body, I would just measure it or somehow mark it so it will go back in the same place, otherwise check the free play on your twist grip and set it back to it has the same amount of free play
I’ve thought of changing my bars but I really haven’t had a problem with the stock ones yet. I wonder if the risers I bought are compatible with the oversized bars? I guess I’ll have to investigate this a little further.
Getting ready to do my bar change to CR mids or maybe the Carmichaels on my 300l. Have Zeta handguards and need to change clamp brackets. Did you find the U clamps you had on the stock bars or the pivoting style for your fatbars to work and clear things better?
I can’t really tell you that it’s a must to do it because it’s not. If you don’t do a lot of off road then the stock is fine. They are a LOT stronger than stock But if the crash is hard enough they still can be bent or broken.
I just want some taller stronger bars for my drz. So many options and everything is closed so I can’t see any in person. :(. So many choices. IM 6’1 and standing sucks on the drz.
@@kyjelly5524 Dude, get some Tusk bar risers from Rocky mountain ADV. I put some on my DRZ and I'm 6ft. What a difference it makes riding standing up and alot more comfortable sitting stance as well...I think they were 20 bucks...
Adventure Awaits I want new bars too. The stock bar ends look like they are bent and falling off lol. I looked at the tusk chub bars too. They seem legit.
@@kyjelly5524 Ohh ok, gotcha. Haven't put new bars on yet, mine are still good. I only have 1800 miles on my bike now. Planning a Black hills South Dakota ride with my son this year though, that's why I put the extra fuel can on my bike...
Hi Woodzman! My stock handlebars finally gave up last week, got bent when a droped the bike. I was currently running stock bars with 30mm of rise beneath the bars! If I run your setup with adeptors and cr mid bars, Will that setup be much higher or lower than my previus setup? Thanks for a good channel
My 2019 CRF 250l the black wheel model feels like it has the dowel in the right hand switch gear, It would not screw together flush I was left with a gap either at the bottom or at the top of the switch housing when the screws were being tightened, if you turn the housing up & down & in & out you will feel the dowel locate into the hole in the bars then your safe to fully tighten the screws. cheers Baz
That is true but only on stock bars. The aluminum bars don’t have the hole in them and I want going to drill a hole in them so I just removed the dowel
@@Woodzman Hi I understand why you took the dowel out in the video, but when you said your throttle side switch gear did not have a dowel but other year model years might I thought I would post that my year model has, might help others as if you tighten the screws in the switch housing too tight it could damage the switch housing, even on the original bars as its a fiddly job first time round.
@@Woodzman I have a 2018 CRF250L and it has the dowel on the right side that goes in a hole on the OEM bars. My OEM bars are bent (due to a crash) and I need to replace them. I would prefer to replace with the Pro Taper bars. I don't think I want to remove the dowel on the right side because of the throttle. I have read other post where folks drilled a hole in the bar, which will match what the factory did. Do you really think drilling a hole will weaken the strength of the bars?
Hey just curious how you were able to get the throttle body assembly tight without drilling a hole and keeping the dowel? I drilled holes in my new bars for the dowels but the throttle side with the kill switch and start button is loose no matter what. The dowel is in the hole and the screws are tight, but the assembly still wiggles.
Yea mine was tight enough that it don’t rotate unless you really try to so it’s ok with me, if it did rotate I would cut a piece of thin plastic to go around the bar just to make it a snugger fit.
Hi Mr Woodzman great install, I could see at the end of the video you still trying to rub that dam glue of your hands horrible stuff but works good, ATB Wayne UK.
Hey woodzman, it's been a couple of years, but did you ever notice the switch housing move around on you after removing the dowel? I'm gonna get a 300L and trying to decide if I want to drill a hole or not.
Yes it did move a little. I put a small piece of double sided tape between it and the bars and that fixed it. A hole would have worked but I really didn’t want to drill the bars
Hi Woodzman. I just did this install and have a question for you. What holds the throttle assembly in place? After I completed this install my throttle assembly is able to rotate too easily. Since there is no dowel on that side, I am wondering how to fix it. Do you have any suggestion? Thanks for your help and for your vids!
@@Woodzman Of course I would find the answer after posting the question. There is actually a small metal standoff that fits into a hole in the factory bar that keeps the assembly in place. Obviously, if you do not want to drill a hole in your bars, the foam tape idea will work great. Just wanted to pass along the knowledge. Thanks for your reply.
Might be a stupid question but if getting 1 1/8 bars, will you run into trouble in future when trying to buy grips and hand guards that fit 1 1/8 instead of standard 7/8?
The grips would be the same because all the 1-1/8 bars taper down to 7/8 where the grips go. Most hand guards are able to work with both, just make sure before you order
@@Woodzman thank you for always answering my questions to where I’ll understand without making me feel dumb. I didn’t know that they taper down to 7/8 that is good to know. Thanks for all the help over the last couple years Frank.
Just did the same install. Can't for the life of me get the throttle to snap back once I tighten the two screws for the controls. If I loosen them to the point where the controls spin the throttle snaps back but if I snug them up the throttle won't move. Weird. No glue inside and everything is clean.
@@Woodzman turns out there was a dowel on the throttle side as well on my 2019 CRF250 Rally. Sanded it smooth and used the tape method but no dice. Looks like I'll be ordering new controls from Honda and drilling my Pro Taper bars.
I agree. Was looking at this thread for a remedy. Installed everything then found this issue. Went back to stock. Wondering if there is any way to create some slack or even a different slightly longer throttle cable. I was using the 3/4” pro taper risers but cable is still too tight.
That is strange, it must be routed around something, the pro taper bars are wider. Maybe cut the ends off some and make the the same are your stock bars
Great video, I just bought same setup only thing is when I tighten down throttle tube there’s a gap at bottom right side if your sitting on bike and if I try to tighten top screw it makes throttle stick did you have any problems like this ?
I had the same issue with the bar end hardware. The Pro Taper bars have 5mm thick walls and so the old Zeta bar ends don't fit inside. I'm on the hunt for some smaller bar ends. I'm planning to order the Tusk D-Flex whenever they're back in stock.
Lol yea the do look extremely good, funny how something like bars can do that. My wife says uh I guess, Lol. I guess things like that only impresses us Men lol
@@Woodzman DO you have a video of you installing the USB charging station on this bike? Also, which USB charger did you go with? I'm looking for one that can plug right into the factory accessory plug.
Just bought a 2019 250l. Watching your videos along with attention deficits channel made me chose the 250l. May be a silly question but does doing mods such as handlebars and fender eliminator void the warranty at all. Thanks keep up the videos
Yea I was telling someone they do look extremely good, funny how something like bars can do that. My wife says uh I guess, Lol. I guess things like that only impresses us Men lol
I HAVE A 2020 CRF250L AND I JUST ORDERED EVERTHING YOU HAVE EXCEPT FOR YOUR ALM. THROTTLE TUBE.CAN I JUST USE MY STOCK THROTTLE OR DO I HAVE TO REPLACE IT FOR THE BIGGER BARS.
No you don’t have to replace it. If you want to change the grips, you can but you will have to cut that throttle grip off, it’s like vulcanized to the tube.
Thank you! How did the CR Mid + adaptors feel in comparison to the stock bars height and sweep? I need to replace my (bent) bars, and I’m trying to stay relatively close to stock (I’m a short rider at 5’ 6”). Did this setup raise your bar height over stock, or is it similar to stock? Thx!
Woodzman Adventures perfect - that’s exactly what I was looking for! Sounds like if I got the CR Mid, in a 7/8ths bar (no adaptor), that there would be minimal change in height. Thanks!
nice video,, like the step by step instructions. really appreciated how you showed us how to get rid of that dowel pin, i was wondering about that. been thinking about putting bars on both the bikes we bought this year. 2014 crf 250l and a 2018 CRF250 RALLY.im sure i will do the pro tapers on both. how did you get rid of all that extra glue that the grips pushed out when you slid them on? on all the bars i have replaced over the years from racing motocross and enduros when i glued grips on my thinking was ,,,,a little goes a long way,,,LOL , but then again we also used some safety wire on our grips too. Thanks for all your helpful videos on the CRF has helped out alot
Great video. I finally bought my own CRF300L last Saturday! I am so excited. I have only ridden it a little because it is so cold, but I love the bike. Already thinking of what mods I want to do and first up is definitely new bars. I am thinking the protaper CR High. I had those on an old DRZ and liked them a lot. Thanks for showing how to install!
Your welcome, I had the pro taper high bend on my first 250L. They was nice
Looks good! I like the pillow top grips they are really comfortable.
Yea these are my first pillow top grips but they do feel nice
Pro tip: When installing grips, attach an air hose to the end and fill the grip with air, it will inflate the grip and it will slide right on, even with glue.
Saw another video stating your clamps are backwards if the pad doesn't fit. They reversed theirs and the pad fit without the need for cutting.
Super helpful video, man! I watched a ton of your vids before recently scooping up my CRF250L! Actually just made an install video on these same bars lol. Subbed to see more 250L content💪💪
Thanks, glad to help
100% professional install with clear step by step instructions. Thank you, I know you wont do grip heaters but, have you any plans on doing extra lights.
Thanks! I thought about extra lights but after installing the Cyclops LED headlight, It mad such an improvement that I’m happy with it.
Thx for ur reply! Btw i have the rally and i installed the YSS rear shock and upgraded Race Tech front suspension ( extra spring and upgraded fork oil- Transforms the bike makes the suspension a dream!, yet super comfy. It’s not springing anymore or bouncy it’s more comfortable sponge -the way it supposed to be to - Very affordable)
I would love to do that some day
The new setup looks great! Down the road please do give us an update on how the pillow grips perform.
Will do !
Just a idea for ya. If your control box happens to move on you, stick a eraser off of a number 2 pencil where that pin was. It will help keep it from rotating. 🙂
It hasn’t moved yet
Thanks, I pulled my pin out- and on my tusk chub bars - it moves now with just hand pressure. I'll try the eraser trick since my pin was damaged removing it. Else I'll have to tape the bar up. On the switch assembly only the outer plastic makes contact with the bar. Mine is a 2018 rally it also had a hole on the throttle side. I did drill for throttle side after reconsidering my mistake.
Another way is go around the bar once with electrical tape. Gives the control something to 'bite' into when tightening up. Not a smooth as the bar so adds resistance to spinning.
Or a bit of double face gorilla tape (30lbs?) seems to work where the nub was. The black electrical tape would probably help as well.
I didn’t want to drill holes in my new bars but in hindsight if I had to do it again, I would drill the small holes.
It’s wouldn’t be difficult to do right.
Will the original plastic throttle piece fit the new bars? I plan on cutting the end off
Oh yea no problem
Excellent video you’re such a good host! what’s the benefit of a metal throttle tube? Also if you loosen the throttle cable by the fuel injection how do you know the cable is the proper tension when you set it back to stock. Thx!!
The metal throttle tube isn’t really necessary, I can’t tell the difference myself. If you loosen the throttle cable by the injection body, I would just measure it or somehow mark it so it will go back in the same place, otherwise check the free play on your twist grip and set it back to it has the same amount of free play
I’ve thought of changing my bars but I really haven’t had a problem with the stock ones yet. I wonder if the risers I bought are compatible with the oversized bars? I guess I’ll have to investigate this a little further.
They wouldn’t be if they are for 7/8” bars
Getting ready to do my bar change to CR mids or maybe the Carmichaels on my 300l. Have Zeta handguards and need to change clamp brackets. Did you find the U clamps you had on the stock bars or the pivoting style for your fatbars to work and clear things better?
I like the pivoting better
Now what makes those bars better than the stock bars? I am considering new bars but is those much better than stock and how?
I can’t really tell you that it’s a must to do it because it’s not. If you don’t do a lot of off road then the stock is fine. They are a LOT stronger than stock But if the crash is hard enough they still can be bent or broken.
I just want some taller stronger bars for my drz. So many options and everything is closed so I can’t see any in person. :(. So many choices. IM 6’1 and standing sucks on the drz.
@@kyjelly5524 Dude, get some Tusk bar risers from Rocky mountain ADV. I put some on my DRZ and I'm 6ft. What a difference it makes riding standing up and alot more comfortable sitting stance as well...I think they were 20 bucks...
Adventure Awaits I want new bars too. The stock bar ends look like they are bent and falling off lol. I looked at the tusk chub bars too. They seem legit.
@@kyjelly5524 Ohh ok, gotcha. Haven't put new bars on yet, mine are still good. I only have 1800 miles on my bike now. Planning a Black hills South Dakota ride with my son this year though, that's why I put the extra fuel can on my bike...
Hi Woodzman! My stock handlebars finally gave up last week, got bent when a droped the bike.
I was currently running stock bars with 30mm of rise beneath the bars!
If I run your setup with adeptors and cr mid bars, Will that setup be much higher or lower than my previus setup?
Thanks for a good channel
Yes it would be much higher, I would try it with out the 3mm adapters first because your cables may not be long enough
Yeah it was my thought to run without the 30 mm of risers and just run the adeptor!
Is the rise on the stock bar and cr mid bar somewhat the same?
I believe they are about the same.
My 2019 CRF 250l the black wheel model feels like it has the dowel in the right hand switch gear, It would not screw together flush I was left with a gap either at the bottom or at the top of the switch housing when the screws were being tightened, if you turn the housing up & down & in & out you will feel the dowel locate into the hole in the bars then your safe to fully tighten the screws.
cheers
Baz
That is true but only on stock bars. The aluminum bars don’t have the hole in them and I want going to drill a hole in them so I just removed the dowel
@@Woodzman Hi I understand why you took the dowel out in the video, but when you said your throttle side switch gear did not have a dowel but other year model years might I thought I would post that my year model has, might help others as if you tighten the screws in the switch housing too tight it could damage the switch housing, even on the original bars as its a fiddly job first time round.
bazxl57 oh ok, I understand now. I was thinkin that my 2014 had the dowel also
@@Woodzman I have a 2018 CRF250L and it has the dowel on the right side that goes in a hole on the OEM bars. My OEM bars are bent (due to a crash) and I need to replace them. I would prefer to replace with the Pro Taper bars. I don't think I want to remove the dowel on the right side because of the throttle. I have read other post where folks drilled a hole in the bar, which will match what the factory did. Do you really think drilling a hole will weaken the strength of the bars?
Well I would think it would weaken them some but not enough to to matter
Hey just curious how you were able to get the throttle body assembly tight without drilling a hole and keeping the dowel? I drilled holes in my new bars for the dowels but the throttle side with the kill switch and start button is loose no matter what. The dowel is in the hole and the screws are tight, but the assembly still wiggles.
Yea mine was tight enough that it don’t rotate unless you really try to so it’s ok with me, if it did rotate I would cut a piece of thin plastic to go around the bar just to make it a snugger fit.
Looks great, did you notice if the Pro Taper bars get scratched like the stock ones from the Zeta clamps?
Well I haven’t taken them off so I’m not sure
Do you remember which handguard inserts you bought for the bar ends? I'm going to have the same problem. Thanks
I used the ones that came with the hanguards
I may have missed it, but why did you replace the throttle tube? Would it have been easier to just cut the grip off? Thanks.
Yea I could have and usually I do, but I just did it this way
I'll be switching out to the EVO's on my CRF450L when I get a chance. Haven't decided on grips. How do you like the pillow tops?
I like them pretty good, they are a lot softer than stock.
Hi Mr Woodzman great install, I could see at the end of the video you still trying to rub that dam glue of your hands horrible stuff but works good, ATB Wayne UK.
Lol yea it’s a mess and that clue was probably 10 years old but it’s all I had. They are nice and solid this morning so it worked!
Hey woodzman, it's been a couple of years, but did you ever notice the switch housing move around on you after removing the dowel? I'm gonna get a 300L and trying to decide if I want to drill a hole or not.
Yes it did move a little. I put a small piece of double sided tape between it and the bars and that fixed it. A hole would have worked but I really didn’t want to drill the bars
Hi Woodzman. I just did this install and have a question for you. What holds the throttle assembly in place? After I completed this install my throttle assembly is able to rotate too easily. Since there is no dowel on that side, I am wondering how to fix it. Do you have any suggestion? Thanks for your help and for your vids!
I used a small piece of thin double sided foam tape around my bar then tightened it down. Has been working fine.
@@Woodzman Of course I would find the answer after posting the question. There is actually a small metal standoff that fits into a hole in the factory bar that keeps the assembly in place. Obviously, if you do not want to drill a hole in your bars, the foam tape idea will work great. Just wanted to pass along the knowledge. Thanks for your reply.
Yea I removed mine because I wasn’t going to drill my bars
Did you have any issue with clutch cable length at full lock turns?
Worked fine on mine, some say there’s didn’t
Might be a stupid question but if getting 1 1/8 bars, will you run into trouble in future when trying to buy grips and hand guards that fit 1 1/8 instead of standard 7/8?
The grips would be the same because all the 1-1/8 bars taper down to 7/8 where the grips go. Most hand guards are able to work with both, just make sure before you order
@@Woodzman thank you for always answering my questions to where I’ll understand without making me feel dumb. I didn’t know that they taper down to 7/8 that is good to know. Thanks for all the help over the last couple years Frank.
@rhcp4life697 your so welcome! Anytime!
Thanks for watchin
Just did the same install. Can't for the life of me get the throttle to snap back once I tighten the two screws for the controls. If I loosen them to the point where the controls spin the throttle snaps back but if I snug them up the throttle won't move. Weird. No glue inside and everything is clean.
Sounds like something is dragging or binding up
@@Woodzman turns out there was a dowel on the throttle side as well on my 2019 CRF250 Rally. Sanded it smooth and used the tape method but no dice. Looks like I'll be ordering new controls from Honda and drilling my Pro Taper bars.
How tight is ur throttle cables now? I put a 1inch riser on my 19 and man my throttle cables are tight now
Full lock from left to right is fine. The ProTaper 7/8” - 1 1/8” adaptors only raised the bars 3/4”
WOODZMAN ADVENTURES wow. I got my cables sitting out of the bracket and its still tight. U must be a hair under the tension point
Dude Manbro must be, I just checked again and there not tight
I agree. Was looking at this thread for a remedy. Installed everything then found this issue. Went back to stock. Wondering if there is any way to create some slack or even a different slightly longer throttle cable. I was using the 3/4” pro taper risers but cable is still too tight.
That is strange, it must be routed around something, the pro taper bars are wider. Maybe cut the ends off some and make the the same are your stock bars
Great video, I just bought same setup only thing is when I tighten down throttle tube there’s a gap at bottom right side if your sitting on bike and if I try to tighten top screw it makes throttle stick did you have any problems like this ?
No I sure didn’t, it sounds like something is in a bind or something in there. I would sure look for the problem
Thanks for replying I found the problem throttle side has a little nipple had to drill for. Thanks
Oh yes, some have it on one side and some on both
Would deleting that nipple cause any issues??
I would rather drill the bars myself, and the dimple is not that tall so you wouldn’t have to drill all they way through
how did you get the zeta hand guards to fit into the bars since they are narrow than stock?
They fit fine.
I had the same issue with the bar end hardware. The Pro Taper bars have 5mm thick walls and so the old Zeta bar ends don't fit inside. I'm on the hunt for some smaller bar ends. I'm planning to order the Tusk D-Flex whenever they're back in stock.
The Zeta hand guards came with both but I couldn’t find them so I ordered a new set
Glad to see you finally got a grip on things. Look nice. Ill wait until i wipe out and bend my stock ones probably. But dang they look so good tho.
Lol yea the do look extremely good, funny how something like bars can do that. My wife says uh I guess, Lol.
I guess things like that only impresses us Men lol
@@Woodzman DO you have a video of you installing the USB charging station on this bike? Also, which USB charger did you go with? I'm looking for one that can plug right into the factory accessory plug.
This is what I have, amzn.to/2NfUPvF
I wired it directly to the battery with an inline fuse. I made a bracket to mount it.
I didn’t make a video
Just bought a 2019 250l. Watching your videos along with attention deficits channel made me chose the 250l. May be a silly question but does doing mods such as handlebars and fender eliminator void the warranty at all. Thanks keep up the videos
Thanks for watching, they shouldn’t void the warranty at all
@@Woodzman thanks for the reply. Got some riding in today. Bike has a whole 9 miles on it haha
Holy cow, let it rest lol
Those are some nice looking bars..
Yea I was telling someone they do look extremely good, funny how something like bars can do that. My wife says uh I guess, Lol.
I guess things like that only impresses us Men lol
So on the 17 throttle side there no locating pin.
There wasn’t on mine
@@Woodzman so no drilling the bar or grinding off the pin?
I didn’t
I just removed the pin
What bar bend did you go with? so many to choose from I'm confused.
I did the CR Mid bend
I HAVE A 2020 CRF250L AND I JUST ORDERED EVERTHING YOU HAVE EXCEPT FOR YOUR ALM. THROTTLE TUBE.CAN I JUST USE MY STOCK THROTTLE OR DO I HAVE TO REPLACE IT FOR THE BIGGER BARS.
No you don’t have to replace it. If you want to change the grips, you can but you will have to cut that throttle grip off, it’s like vulcanized to the tube.
OK I ORDERED GRIPS LIKE YOURS SO I CAN CUT IT OFF AND THE OEM THROTTLE TUBE WILL FIT ON THE FATTER BAR?
Yes it will fit
Hey, why did you get a new throttle tube? Isn’t the end of the pro tapers 7/8?
Yes it is, I just didn’t want to cut the grip off the old throttle tube
@@Woodzman You Can get them off easily with compressed air on the back side.
How did you like the grips and handlebars after riding with them on? I’ve been wanting to do the same setup on my 2018 250L.
They feel good but I haven’t ridden it yet, Maybe tomorrow
I'm replacing my bars as we speak. How do you find your clutch side controls after the dowel removal?
Some people leave the dowel and drill a hole in the new bars for it. Mine works fine without it
@@Woodzman I decided to not drill, seems fine. And not sacrificing the integrity of the bars. Thanks!
Super good and informative video. Great job buddy.
Thank yuh sir!
Thank you! How did the CR Mid + adaptors feel in comparison to the stock bars height and sweep? I need to replace my (bent) bars, and I’m trying to stay relatively close to stock (I’m a short rider at 5’ 6”). Did this setup raise your bar height over stock, or is it similar to stock? Thx!
It feels better to me, it made it about an inch taller
Woodzman Adventures perfect - that’s exactly what I was looking for! Sounds like if I got the CR Mid, in a 7/8ths bar (no adaptor), that there would be minimal change in height. Thanks!
I just purchased some rental 7/8th CR Highs at the local shop. They ended up being pretty darn close to the height of the stock bars. Thanks again
Awesome. You’re welcome
Hi I’m 180 cm tall, please tell me witch model of ProTaper Countour will be better for me, CR Mid or CR High on my CRF 250L?
I would go for the CR Mid
@@Woodzman and what about for 152.4 cm tall ?
I would still do the mid bend
@@Woodzman thanks I will follow that one as well 😂😂
I took of my throttle tube to clean it and now I can’t get enough slack to put the cables back any tips??
Did you do it like I did in the video? It works but it’s tough. You may have to take it lose down by the engine
I tried it but then I can get the tube back on the bars
How much?
I didn’t put prices because that can change. You would need to go to the crfs only links in the description to find out.
You dont crash all the time..... why change from the originals?
So I could make the video lol
@@Woodzman
What was the total cost of the conversion? Including all the parts.
@@yessure5291 two arm's and three legs !
@@markcollins5026 Hmmm and what would chairs look like if knees bent the other way? :)
The 250’s decals look better than the 300’s.
Yuor so lucky Sir couz yuo have many CRF bike If you didn't like that someday just gave that to me Sir thank you and God bless you Sir
Nah not lucky, just work hard
what bend are those?
CR Mid bend
What kind of cell phone mount you have
Ram Mount X Grip
@@Woodzman what mount you using with it is that the mount on your left side
What's the mount style your using under the x mount to mount it to the handle bars I ask because ram mounts have tons of options
I always torque my handlebar bolts at 250 pounds of manliness
Man, save yourself a lot of cheese by just putting on the pillow top grip's !
They sure feel good, I have never used them till now
nice video,, like the step by step instructions. really appreciated how you showed us how to get rid of that dowel pin, i was wondering about that. been thinking about putting bars on both the bikes we bought this year. 2014 crf 250l and a 2018 CRF250 RALLY.im sure i will do the pro tapers on both. how did you get rid of all that extra glue that the grips pushed out when you slid them on? on all the bars i have replaced over the years from racing motocross and enduros when i glued grips on my thinking was ,,,,a little goes a long way,,,LOL , but then again we also used some safety wire on our grips too. Thanks for all your helpful videos on the CRF has helped out alot
Thanks! After the glue dries I just went around it with a knives then just pealed it off
Snazzy.
Snazzy Jeff!