So cool to see someone other than Ivan build this. This is a project I would love to dive into in the future. I love the look of this CNC machine, and look forward to see what you can make with it
Thanks for the comment! Glad you like it! It definitely was a fun project and I learned a ton, so hopefully in the future I can design and make another machine using this one!
I'm working on a design for a CNC with about 400x440x120 cut area. The machine is done, working on the electronics and wiring now. If it works as I want, I'll be posting the files but mine isn't polished. I'm a newb to designing so I tend to build and test, build to fix problems or correct issues, then build again and again. I enjoy the tinkering aspect so I'm good with that.
@@santiicolorado Went fairly well, got it built and wired, firmware installed and working. Cut a few pieces of wood, didn't get around to metal. I have some health issues and I ended up having to set that project aside for a while and I haven't got back to messing with it yet. It just isn't the most important thing in my life right now.
Ivan Miranda is a BEAST! That, got my sub. Edited to add: Now Ivanize it and build it 10 times bigger!!!😂 - On a serious note, I think this will be my first CNC build as well. I like it, and I think it’s a good first step. I like your mods. Ivan truly designs and builds some great stuff!
@@ModernHobbyist How hard would it be to make it cut steel? Would you just need a harder bit and make it go slower, or would it be nearly impossible with the strength it has?
@@StarForgers I haven't tried, but from what I've heard, 3d printed parts are pretty much not going to be able to cut steel. Even aluminum plates have to be pretty thick to handle cutting steel.
1. Print plastic to make CNC able to mill aluminum 2. Mill aluminum to make CNC able to mill steel 3. Mill steel to make CNC able to mill titanium 4. World domination
Very nice build! The only thing I'd worry about is the air vents on the power supply. You really wouldn't want the aluminum dust to be pulled into the power supply (or any other type of dust). Thank you for the very good video.
Thank you! I was worried about that as well, so I had a filter on both sides of the fan in hopes of keeping dust out, but I still found walnut dust in there after my last project 😬 might have to rethink the electronics box
It really does do pretty well and it was a fun build! You should also look into the PrintNC! It's an open source build using steel tubing and some 3d printed parts.
I got some extrusions through Amazon recently, and it wasn't until I was "repairing" the M5 threads that I had tapped, but weren't holding, that I figured out that the center holes were sized to be tapped for M6. It was in the diagrams, I just didn't notice. After years of using Misumi extrusions with the pilot holes for M5, I just thought that was the size you'd get with any 20mm extrusion. So, yeah, learn from my mistake!
Great design, great build, might even consider building it myself. The only difference is, instead of drilling into the aluminum extrusions, just use the t slot hardware, more convenient and easier than drilling holes and screwing them together.
I would’ve liked to avoid chopping it off, and that’s not a bad idea for future builds, but I wouldn’t have been able to route it through the existing cable tubes. Would’ve been an easy fix if I had kept the plug I suppose 🤔 in any case I don’t plan on taking the router off the machine any time soon. Thanks for the comment!
Hmm. You or anyone tuning about doing this should look into the PrintNC. But I'm a donit once and do it right kind of guy. It's a far more sturdy and capable CNC router. No flimsy aluminum extrusion. There are printed parts but kept at a minimum. The entire parametric model... With an absolutely insane build wiki/manual.. everything is completely free and available online. There is also a huge community on discord with lots of helpful advice. High recommend over doing this build. IMHO
I want to make one of these. Something about this size, but I want to use a spindle with a quick change adapter so I don't have to spend so much time swapping collets
Great build and a great video - the light, voice and editing - everything done astonishingly well. Great job, I already see your channel as one of the best DIY related channels out there.
Hey Nathan! I used the Arduino IDE and the newest version of GRBL for the firmware, and started with the configuration settings Ivan provided in the PDF and adjusted from there. I found this link to be helpful when flashing the firmware: all3dp.com/2/grbl-arduino-cnc-controller-simply-explained/ Hope that helps!
@11:22 Yea I don't think having both the Fan In- and Outtakes on top of the Electronics Box was a wise decision considering the Metal shavings you apparently intend to cut with it being produced nearby 🤔 Maybe consider adding a shield that will have the shaving bounce of there instead of landing in the Fan Ports? 🤨
Thanks for the comment! I did add filters to both sides of the fan to prevent any shavings from making their way into the box, and so far when I’ve checked inside they seem to be doing the job
Great video to see a small scale build for someone that knows what they're doing and wants to see a PCB add, but genuinely any explanation on the components or why they were chooses as well as a breakdown of the electrical hardware would've been appreciated.
You should've used a CNC machine to CNC all those black metal bars at the start, so that you could make your CNC machine. Alternatively, you should've printed those metal bars with PLA.
@@ModernHobbyist considering the use of wood for the base but not sure. Less rigidity Might cost me to lose some of my depth in the cuts and limit materials I cut- but could make it a better possibility for my budget. (I already bought too many 3D printers LOL)
I applaud your brilliance my friend. Thanks for this. Just might be the best video I've seen for making something so complex look so effortless.. including the broken bit.. !been there and it isn't fun at all. Truly inspirational thanks again 👍
Hey thanks for watching! I bought most the hardware from Aliexpress, but I got the aluminum extrusions from Misumi. However, you could probably save a good bit of money getting them in bulk from Amazon. Either way, you're probably not going to get close to the price he paid for his extrusions 🤷🏻♂️ Hope that helps!
It was about $650 including shipping and the makita router. I bought mostly from AliExpress, which saved money but Ivan was able to get his aluminum extrusions for super cheap compared to US prices.
Thanks! It was just about $660 including shipping. You could save a good bit by buying the aluminum in bulk and finding the screws locally though. Hope that helps!
Wow what a great project! I'm impressed that 3d printed parts can perform like that, I really like your website and the way you've branded yourself, i couldn't ask how you host your website? I'm also an Engineer looking to create an online presence. Thanks
Misumi is definitely more expensive, but for this project it was worth it to have them come pre-cut. I could have bought full 2M extrusions for cheaper, but I would have spent the same amount total. I'd just have a bunch of off cuts that are too small for anything useful 🤷🏻♂️
@ I’ve been thinking about 3d printing one. I think I’ll just convert my old 3d printer into one by adding a controller and a motor with some send mills and a new build plate.
One issue that you might run into, is that 3d printers are not designed to be rigid at all. They require very little rigidity and as such often make crappy routers 😬
Been looking at buying a CNC router, I might have to look into building my own instead. Thanks for the inspiration! Also what is that song at the beginning? I hear it in so many YT vids but can never find out what it's called.
Total with shipping was $661, but you could save a good bit of money buying aluminum extrusions in bulk and finding bolts at a local vendor in bulk as well.
Всё это чудесно только для красивой картинки. Пластик "течёт", он же пластичный. Первое место, где это произойдет - моторы нагреются и лягут на бок. Потом болты на боках, на которых ремни натянуты. Потом вырастут люфты в местах запрессовки подшипников. Только если успеть сделать на нём алюминиевый крепеж для него же. Но фрезер нагреется и вывалится из крепления к этому времени.
Glad you liked it! The design is one of Ivan Miranda's (plans cost $25) and it cost me about $650 to build including shipping. If you meant you'd like to buy one from me, I wish I had time to make them to sell 😅
About how much did this cost to make and do you think I’d be able to run it to make wooden kids toys? Can I engrave nicely into the surface as well to add details ?
@@shrimpinpat This thing will chew through wood with very little trouble, the only limitation I've noticed so far, is my own lack of experience operating it!
@@ModernHobbyist I’ve been wanting to make one or another DIY one but it’s never been clear to me since it doesn’t have stops to home itself if I’d be able to do tool changes and such to finish parts nicer. Any ideas I’d appreciate
@@shrimpinpat yeah that’s tough. I’m thinking of adding endstops to this CNC, but a tool changer is way outside my knowledge level currently. Maybe the next CNC!
@@ModernHobbyist yeah tool changer would be a lot I just want to be able to run finishing passes to debur or add like bevel or chamfer to edges . But either way may still make one. Could make a router jig for the rest of that
It was the 5M 12mm belt: www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832785977321.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.71d21802zxiec5&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
It really hurts me...using arduino uno with cnc shield and one of cheapest drivers possible while cnc construction is extra expensive, even makita is really good but it's only 710W comparing to 1500w spindle is nothing. Anyways looks cool and impressive. nice work
Thanks! Glad you liked it. If you want to build one of these yourself, you'll need to buy the plans from Ivan to support his channel. Thanks for watching!
Well, I don't want to sound harsh but this is a newbie machine from someone who have no idea of what he's doing. There's so much conception mistakes that we could talk about it for hours. Long story short, the major issues are materials and components. The young modulus of plastic is a fraction of what steel (which is the right material to be used: stiff and inexpensive) is. 3D printed parts are not isotropic, so they are way worse than injection molded plastic. People may understand that to get the same stiffness as a steel sheet, 3D printed parts should be more than 60 times (!) thicker. Second, the linear rails used in this build are MGN 15mm which are not suitable for routing/milling operations anyways, because they use a single path of bearing balls in a plastic cage. To hold random routing/milling forces you need 2 bearing paths with opposite contact point. In other words, the rails and blocks don't have enough holding power in lateral and vertical direction. Consequences are you will need to lower machining speed to avoid vibrations and some deflections caused by the raw material resistance on the tool. You guys think I'm wrong ? Well, do an easy test. The machine can hold a 8mm bit, so insert a 1 flute 8mm bit, set your Makita router at max speed (30.000rpm), set your feed at 10 meters per minute, ask for a 8mm deep pass through any hardwood, hit enter and see by yourself how good the machine is. For information, those are average settings: a proper machine can hold much higher rates. Don't get me wrong, Ivan Miranda is a very sympathetic and dynamic guy and his videos are a lot of fun. But when he claims this machine can cuts metal this is much closer to a lie than to reality. Let me explain. With a file which is not a cutting tool, with a bit of patience you can cut metal. And this is what Ivan Miranda is roughly doing: taking micro passes for filing small amounts of material at a time. At the end the metal might be cut, but this is not milling. What else could he do as the machine is not able to stand average metal machining ? Once again, I don't want to sound harsh, but this is fooling people I'm afraid. Some newcomers will invest a significant amount of money to build a mediocre machine. And as they have no other machine to compare with, they will be convinced this one is fine. That's what Ivan Miranda himself thinks by the way. Worst of all, people won't learn machining at all, they will only learn how to keep this machine from shaking while they try to make parts. I would say exactly the same about Nikodem Batknik's Dremel CNC. I'm a graduated engineer and I've been designing machines for decades. I beg you all to never make structural parts out of 3D printing. Only rubber can be worst, let me tell you. And check the components are suitable for the use. Last, any one can drill a hole into a piece of metal: no extra skills or fancy tools required. Mild steel is 2€ per kg, filament at least 20€ per kg. Building a CNC router out of steel will cost way less than Ivan Miranda's. Definitely. Please think about all this when you will design yours.
Thanks for all the info! The only response I really have is that I (and probably many makers like me) simply don’t have the means to work with steel in any capacity yet. I’d love to make a much sturdier and accurate machine, but I don’t currently have any tools or space for real metalworking, so 3D printing it is 🤷🏻♂️. Also, I’m sure I could buy a sturdier machine for what this one cost, but the goal of this project was to learn more about CNC machines, their different parts, and to see how far a person can push 3D printing. This project certainly did that! To your point though, my goal is to use this machine to machine a better machine and that machine to make a better machine and so on. So, I’ll definitely take your tips into consideration when selecting parts for my next build! Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate the thoughtful feedback!
@@ModernHobbyist You're welcome. What you need to make a CNC router/mill out of steel is a hacksaw and a drill. You don't have to know how to weld as structural epoxy glue does it just fine and glue is probably cheaper than hardware to bolt everything on. Did you heard about the "3D printing paradox" ? This was theorized back in the 70s. The point is additive manufacturing stands exactly where traditional manufacturing ends. In other words, what is long and/or complex and/or expensive to be done with subtractive manufacturing deserve to be done with additive manufacturing. And vice versa. There's also two major issues which comes with 3d printing. The first one, related to "the 3d printing paradox" is you can do anything with 3D printing, like your CNC router, for example. But that does not mean you should. For example, a front panel can be done on a 3D printer. But if you take a sheet of material, maybe aluminum, you will have a nicer, cheaper, stronger and better front panel within minutes with just a drill and a saw. While a 3d printed front panel will require way much time modeling and printing to get a questionable plastic thing. The second one is: as 3d printing allows to make very complex parts, people have a tendency to make over complex parts. Just have a look at Ivan Miranda's parts. 90% of them are unnecessarily complex, which also results of a complex assembly, as you noticed. So you may think twice prior to choose 3d printing for any job, especially about materials properties. Don't get me wrong, 3D printing is a great technology which have many uses, and some parts can't be done another way. As long as you don't use this technology to print Pikatchu trinkets. 3D printing is the best technology ever for many parts. I own a printing farm and it runs all year long. But 3D printing should not be the most part of your workflow. Whatever a 3D printer can print in theory anything, its real range is way much smaller than you think. When you push 3d printing, you always brings issues which are difficult to identify. Like this CNC router : looks great and pro but it's so far to be. When using it, you'll endlessly face limitation or issues which comes from the wrong 3D printed parts and wrong components. Let me give you some advises, if you don't mind. When the word structural comes into equation, forget 3D printing. Definitely. When the designed part is unnecessarily complex, you are probably going the wrong way : wrong technology, wrong material or wrong engineering direction. Good luck for the next. Keep in mind this machine will allow you to learn machining with it only. The reality of CNC machining is elsewhere. When you'll get your hands on a proper machine, you will have to learn all again. I'm looking forward to seeing what's coming next on your channel. Regards.
While I agree with Axel from the engineering stand point it's always better to use the tools and materials to what they're best suited at, the video production and the topic was entertaining at the very least so I would not knock him for being unaware. I myself being not being from a hardware engineering background and working on projects will double down on manufacturing techniques I am familiar ( 3D printing, laser cutting, basic wood working, and microcontrollers when working with electronics) with even when there are alternatives.This comes down to not knowing enough and being comfortable with what I know, but after a number of failures thats when one tends to branch out.
@@axelSixtySix I think the whole point is that this machine allows you to accurately cut aluminium parts; The speed is irrelevant if it's a capability you don't currently have. You could use machine to re-make it's AM parts out of aluminium, and improve the rigidity of the frame. If you're starting out and looking to spend under £2k - without investing significant time designing, sourcing, and making it by hand - There's very few viable options. if you're a total beginner to CNC - as is the target for this machine/project, you may as well use the learning experience as what it is, and gain the ability to process aluminium accurately.
@@Matt3DMaker I strongly disagree about the words accurate and cut. That's the point you missed. Accurate milling of aluminium parts require much heavier machines, definitely. Here, you can't call this cutting, this is grinding with micro passes. The cut quality matches the machine's stiffness which is awfull obviously. Now about the to eternal false arguments given: price and beginner/hobby. 3D printed parts are much expensive than steel or concrete which are both perfect mechanically talking. You build a whole machine with a £40 single steel beam or a single £12 fibred concrète bag. This way, you build a pretty capable machine way under £500. There's hundred of free plans available online. Google it in two clicks. Any one is able to drill a hole in a piece of metal or make a foam insulation mold with basic tools and no skills. Second, more than anyone else, beginners need a capable machine for two major reasons. First a capable machine is more forgiving. Second, you learn valuable experience with capable machines only. Rubbish machines just allow you learn tinkering with their limits. There's no way a hobbyist would be delighted to use a mediocre machine. Definitely. And come on ! You get plug and play full aluminium CNC routers from way less than £2000, which will be delivered before you could 3D print all the parts. Let's face the truth ! 😉
Yeah in the end that’s probably true, but I definitely learned a ton during this process! I have wanted to try building a PrintNC with steel tubing and that would be a much beefier build for not much more money
Great build/interesting machine BUT like many/most fun projects it's hardly useful for working on metal. Like the engineer in one of the posts said the materials plastics etc you use aren't very suitable (too flexible etc). If you're really serious about metalwork it would be more useful to buy a small new or used machine. You can more or less "reverse engineer" that machine to learn how things SHOULD be designed.
You read the plans completely WRONG! its supposed to be red filament, its not going to be accurate. Jocks aside, very good video, you make it look easy. sub
@@ModernHobbyist Ive planning to rebuld mine, Ive used nikodem bartniks design, but made it simpler and on bits left from 3d printer so ended up with weak rods, my next idea is to use a 9U cab as a case and mount all inside of it, on 12 or 14mm rods and ballscrews instead of standard leadscrews
the only reason i am hesitant to sub is this goofy ahh ahh ohio music. just go the diresta route and have the sped up shots be shop audio with a radio in the background going bing bong teedle tee dum
Thanks for watching! Make sure to subscribe and to checkout Ivan's build video here: th-cam.com/video/ctyLjOHg7Ag/w-d-xo.html
Like the video the music, ehhh.
PLA or PETG?
I can't believe you did a whole Ivan Miranda build without saying the word "spacers" 😁
We all make mistakes 😣
But...spot on with the Wiring tid bit lol
So cool to see someone other than Ivan build this. This is a project I would love to dive into in the future. I love the look of this CNC machine, and look forward to see what you can make with it
Thanks for the comment! Glad you like it! It definitely was a fun project and I learned a ton, so hopefully in the future I can design and make another machine using this one!
And please now go and MAKE SOMETHING!!!! 🤣
@@ModernHobbyist What was the total cost of this DIY?
@@peterklemenc6194 I believe it came out to about $650 if I remember correctly.
I'm working on a design for a CNC with about 400x440x120 cut area. The machine is done, working on the electronics and wiring now. If it works as I want, I'll be posting the files but mine isn't polished. I'm a newb to designing so I tend to build and test, build to fix problems or correct issues, then build again and again. I enjoy the tinkering aspect so I'm good with that.
How did it go
@@santiicolorado Went fairly well, got it built and wired, firmware installed and working. Cut a few pieces of wood, didn't get around to metal. I have some health issues and I ended up having to set that project aside for a while and I haven't got back to messing with it yet. It just isn't the most important thing in my life right now.
Ivan Miranda is a BEAST! That, got my sub. Edited to add: Now Ivanize it and build it 10 times bigger!!!😂 - On a serious note, I think this will be my first CNC build as well. I like it, and I think it’s a good first step. I like your mods. Ivan truly designs and builds some great stuff!
He's definitely one of the makers that's guaranteed to get a click from me!
dont forget the SPACERS .... he is great fun. i want his pla budget lol
Tell me about it!
I'm super impressed with that surface finish on the aluminum. It makes me wonder why we don't see more of these in the wild. Well done!
Thanks! It’s not the absolute sturdiest machine out there but it should be more than enough to cut anything I need!
@@ModernHobbyist How hard would it be to make it cut steel? Would you just need a harder bit and make it go slower, or would it be nearly impossible with the strength it has?
@@StarForgers I haven't tried, but from what I've heard, 3d printed parts are pretty much not going to be able to cut steel. Even aluminum plates have to be pretty thick to handle cutting steel.
1. Print plastic to make CNC able to mill aluminum
2. Mill aluminum to make CNC able to mill steel
3. Mill steel to make CNC able to mill titanium
4. World domination
@@SteeveBlack Yeah, but like, don't tell everybody...
Very nice build! The only thing I'd worry about is the air vents on the power supply. You really wouldn't want the aluminum dust to be pulled into the power supply (or any other type of dust). Thank you for the very good video.
Thank you! I was worried about that as well, so I had a filter on both sides of the fan in hopes of keeping dust out, but I still found walnut dust in there after my last project 😬 might have to rethink the electronics box
Great video! I want to build one myself. Seen other mpcnc builds, but this one seems to do really well with aluminum.
It really does do pretty well and it was a fun build! You should also look into the PrintNC! It's an open source build using steel tubing and some 3d printed parts.
I got some extrusions through Amazon recently, and it wasn't until I was "repairing" the M5 threads that I had tapped, but weren't holding, that I figured out that the center holes were sized to be tapped for M6. It was in the diagrams, I just didn't notice. After years of using Misumi extrusions with the pilot holes for M5, I just thought that was the size you'd get with any 20mm extrusion. So, yeah, learn from my mistake!
how much did the hardware and filament for this cost?
Yes. I'd also love to know how much this total product would cost me?
Yeah what was the cost of this build?
around 600£
Inspiration for my second CNC. I might adapt this design...
Great Build. I had a look and subbed to Ivan as well and am going to build this. Looks like fun.
Hows the acuraccy on this thing? do you tend to get parts within reasonably tight dimensions?
O and i like the addition of the touch probe
Great design, great build, might even consider building it myself. The only difference is, instead of drilling into the aluminum extrusions, just use the t slot hardware, more convenient and easier than drilling holes and screwing them together.
Yeah especially with a super wobbly drill press I stole from my Dad 😑
Fit a mains socket onto the electronics box controlled by the relay, then you can just plug a router in without having to cut its plug off.
I would’ve liked to avoid chopping it off, and that’s not a bad idea for future builds, but I wouldn’t have been able to route it through the existing cable tubes. Would’ve been an easy fix if I had kept the plug I suppose 🤔 in any case I don’t plan on taking the router off the machine any time soon. Thanks for the comment!
any chance of you sharing your modified electronics box?
How much does it cost and what are the motor specs for this project?
Hmm. You or anyone tuning about doing this should look into the PrintNC. But I'm a donit once and do it right kind of guy.
It's a far more sturdy and capable CNC router. No flimsy aluminum extrusion. There are printed parts but kept at a minimum. The entire parametric model... With an absolutely insane build wiki/manual.. everything is completely free and available online. There is also a huge community on discord with lots of helpful advice. High recommend over doing this build. IMHO
Great to see others making Ivan’s Cnc stuff.
Curious to know what size power supply and relay you used
What was the total cost of parts for the project?
About $660 including shipping. Could save a good bit buying aluminum extrusion in bulk and getting the bolts locally though!
I want to make one of these. Something about this size, but I want to use a spindle with a quick change adapter so I don't have to spend so much time swapping collets
DO IT!
Great build and a great video - the light, voice and editing - everything done astonishingly well. Great job, I already see your channel as one of the best DIY related channels out there.
Thanks so much, that means a lot!
Ive been searching for a video like this
I wana build my own Cnc Machine in the future aswell, really nice!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Could you go into more detail about how you programed your arduino uno cnc shield doing his big cnc and struggling with that part
Hey Nathan! I used the Arduino IDE and the newest version of GRBL for the firmware, and started with the configuration settings Ivan provided in the PDF and adjusted from there. I found this link to be helpful when flashing the firmware: all3dp.com/2/grbl-arduino-cnc-controller-simply-explained/
Hope that helps!
its belt gt2 ? pls tell my, thank you
Yup!
I'm currently in the middle of this build myself, not quite to the worrying process but I don't see alot of explanation in the wiring
I thought I recognised Ivans design.
Cool to see others building machines based on Ivans designs.
He’s truly a mad scientist!
What main board did you use for this build?
This is just an Arduino Uno with the GRBL CNC shield!
What are the dimensions of the rails I bought the plans but can't figure it out it doesn't say on their
Awesome mate what sort of 3d printer did you use to make the parts?
happy to see other you tubers using his work!
Thanks for watching!
Nice video, nice machine. nice to hear you like Miranda!
Any comments on using 2080 extrusion instead of building the sides from so many pieces?
PLA or PETG? And does anybody know how much filament/spools it takes to print all the parts for this project?
I used PLA, and I think it was about 2kgs (excluding all the misprints I had).
RIght on good info! thank you for the feedback love your channel BTW
@@ocmtb1568thanks for watching! Join the Discord if you haven’t already! Not the biggest community out there yet but it’s growing!
@11:22 Yea I don't think having both the Fan In- and Outtakes on top of the Electronics Box was a wise decision considering the Metal shavings you apparently intend to cut with it being produced nearby 🤔
Maybe consider adding a shield that will have the shaving bounce of there instead of landing in the Fan Ports? 🤨
Thanks for the comment! I did add filters to both sides of the fan to prevent any shavings from making their way into the box, and so far when I’ve checked inside they seem to be doing the job
Great video to see a small scale build for someone that knows what they're doing and wants to see a PCB add, but genuinely any explanation on the components or why they were chooses as well as a breakdown of the electrical hardware would've been appreciated.
Watch the original video by Ivan Miranda
can you do a long use test of the machine ?
Really nice! What material is the printed parts of? I will build this one soon.
Nice! I just used PLA from Overture, but I’d be interested to hear results from a different filament!
how hard is it to get into cnc wise more over program and automation? i would eventually love to make my own mill to make pc parts.
Best Christmas gift is a Modern Hobbyist notification
😂😂
You should've used a CNC machine to CNC all those black metal bars at the start, so that you could make your CNC machine. Alternatively, you should've printed those metal bars with PLA.
man what is the size of all Aluminum Profile Extrusion that you use ?
I wonder if you cld use 3d printed t slot rails to make it more 3d printed parts and less have to buy parts
I'm absolutely sure you could, but keep in mind that it would negatively effect the rigidity of the frame
Nice work!
Thanks!
Neat!, I'm a 15 year CNC Machinist, What kind of AOC and ROC can you take with that?
Are you using Gbrl?
Very nice build.
Thank you! Yup, GRBL 1.1
Can you please share the cost of this build?
About $600 pre-shipping and $661 with shipping. Could save a good bit of money finding bolts locally in bulk
@@ModernHobbyist considering the use of wood for the base but not sure. Less rigidity Might cost me to lose some of my depth in the cuts and limit materials I cut- but could make it a better possibility for my budget. (I already bought too many 3D printers LOL)
I applaud your brilliance my friend. Thanks for this. Just might be the best video I've seen for making something so complex look so effortless.. including the broken bit.. !been there and it isn't fun at all.
Truly inspirational thanks again 👍
@@jpin514 Thank you! That means a lot!
How much was the cost for all the components, minus the 3d printed stuff? Looks awesome!
Thanks! I think minus the 3D printed parts, it was about $600
@@ModernHobbyist great thank you!
May i ask u were did u get all materials from ?? Since the store he recommended in the build plans are from Spain I guess.. thanks for your videos
Hey thanks for watching! I bought most the hardware from Aliexpress, but I got the aluminum extrusions from Misumi. However, you could probably save a good bit of money getting them in bulk from Amazon. Either way, you're probably not going to get close to the price he paid for his extrusions 🤷🏻♂️ Hope that helps!
What was the total cost for everything?
It was about $650 including shipping and the makita router. I bought mostly from AliExpress, which saved money but Ivan was able to get his aluminum extrusions for super cheap compared to US prices.
This was really inspiring. Subbed. Thanks
Thanks for the sub!
How much plastic did it cost , buying one outright might have been cheaper/ same price.
Nice build!.....you mind sharing total cost?
Thanks! It was just about $660 including shipping. You could save a good bit by buying the aluminum in bulk and finding the screws locally though. Hope that helps!
Wow what a great project! I'm impressed that 3d printed parts can perform like that, I really like your website and the way you've branded yourself, i couldn't ask how you host your website? I'm also an Engineer looking to create an online presence. Thanks
Thanks! My website is hosted on Squarespace which does most of heavy lifting for me, I highly recommend it!
Misumi charges a premium for everything.. I only go there for cads and component spec sheets
Misumi is definitely more expensive, but for this project it was worth it to have them come pre-cut. I could have bought full 2M extrusions for cheaper, but I would have spent the same amount total. I'd just have a bunch of off cuts that are too small for anything useful 🤷🏻♂️
Final build cost?
It's been a while, but I think around $650 🤔
@ I’ve been thinking about 3d printing one. I think I’ll just convert my old 3d printer into one by adding a controller and a motor with some send mills and a new build plate.
One issue that you might run into, is that 3d printers are not designed to be rigid at all. They require very little rigidity and as such often make crappy routers 😬
Been looking at buying a CNC router, I might have to look into building my own instead. Thanks for the inspiration!
Also what is that song at the beginning? I hear it in so many YT vids but can never find out what it's called.
It’s one of the few good songs on Epidemic Sound called Dancing with the Devil. And thanks for the comment, glad you liked the project!
There's a clutch setting on your drill for a reason
How much did the Parts Kost?
Total with shipping was $661, but you could save a good bit of money buying aluminum extrusions in bulk and finding bolts at a local vendor in bulk as well.
metal structure, metal drive parts, metal guides - yeah this router is 3d-printed, for sure.
Convenient that you forgot to mention the 200+ 3D printed parts .
Did you actually think it was going to be 100% 3d printed
Ayyy an Iowa state fan(alum?). Did you graduate from there?
Yessir! State fan all my life!
Всё это чудесно только для красивой картинки. Пластик "течёт", он же пластичный. Первое место, где это произойдет - моторы нагреются и лягут на бок. Потом болты на боках, на которых ремни натянуты. Потом вырастут люфты в местах запрессовки подшипников. Только если успеть сделать на нём алюминиевый крепеж для него же. Но фрезер нагреется и вывалится из крепления к этому времени.
Awesome!!!!!!
Thats amazing design bro. How much would that cost to buy 😅
Glad you liked it! The design is one of Ivan Miranda's (plans cost $25) and it cost me about $650 to build including shipping. If you meant you'd like to buy one from me, I wish I had time to make them to sell 😅
@@ModernHobbyist well bro, keep doing what your doing as its awesome to see talented people 😎
7:22 why the circus music?
Software?
The CNC runs on GRBL and I've been using UGS to stream GCode to the machine. Also, I've been doing CAD/CAM with Fusion360. Hope that helps!
Should build a lowrider 3. But good video and build
I didn't know Ivan sold plans. Looks like a great project!
About how much did this cost to make and do you think I’d be able to run it to make wooden kids toys? Can I engrave nicely into the surface as well to add details ?
@@shrimpinpat This thing will chew through wood with very little trouble, the only limitation I've noticed so far, is my own lack of experience operating it!
@@ModernHobbyist I’ve been wanting to make one or another DIY one but it’s never been clear to me since it doesn’t have stops to home itself if I’d be able to do tool changes and such to finish parts nicer. Any ideas I’d appreciate
@@shrimpinpat yeah that’s tough. I’m thinking of adding endstops to this CNC, but a tool changer is way outside my knowledge level currently. Maybe the next CNC!
@@ModernHobbyist yeah tool changer would be a lot I just want to be able to run finishing passes to debur or add like bevel or chamfer to edges . But either way may still make one. Could make a router jig for the rest of that
How Much was this?
Just about $650 including shipping I believe
hello can you send me the reference of the belt used please
It was the 5M 12mm belt: www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832785977321.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.25.71d21802zxiec5&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
Qual a área da impressora 3d necessária para o projeto?
It really hurts me...using arduino uno with cnc shield and one of cheapest drivers possible while cnc construction is extra expensive, even makita is really good but it's only 710W comparing to 1500w spindle is nothing. Anyways looks cool and impressive. nice work
awesome project bro can you please give me the 3d printed all parts stl files ?
Thanks! Glad you liked it. If you want to build one of these yourself, you'll need to buy the plans from Ivan to support his channel. Thanks for watching!
I love the esthatics
ISU ftw. Good build
Thanks! Go Clones!
Great video, but it would’ve been nice if you had like pop up balloons dropping tips while you were building it.
Thanks for the feedback!
perfect🎉
Well, I don't want to sound harsh but this is a newbie machine from someone who have no idea of what he's doing. There's so much conception mistakes that we could talk about it for hours. Long story short, the major issues are materials and components. The young modulus of plastic is a fraction of what steel (which is the right material to be used: stiff and inexpensive) is. 3D printed parts are not isotropic, so they are way worse than injection molded plastic. People may understand that to get the same stiffness as a steel sheet, 3D printed parts should be more than 60 times (!) thicker. Second, the linear rails used in this build are MGN 15mm which are not suitable for routing/milling operations anyways, because they use a single path of bearing balls in a plastic cage. To hold random routing/milling forces you need 2 bearing paths with opposite contact point. In other words, the rails and blocks don't have enough holding power in lateral and vertical direction.
Consequences are you will need to lower machining speed to avoid vibrations and some deflections caused by the raw material resistance on the tool. You guys think I'm wrong ? Well, do an easy test. The machine can hold a 8mm bit, so insert a 1 flute 8mm bit, set your Makita router at max speed (30.000rpm), set your feed at 10 meters per minute, ask for a 8mm deep pass through any hardwood, hit enter and see by yourself how good the machine is. For information, those are average settings: a proper machine can hold much higher rates.
Don't get me wrong, Ivan Miranda is a very sympathetic and dynamic guy and his videos are a lot of fun. But when he claims this machine can cuts metal this is much closer to a lie than to reality. Let me explain. With a file which is not a cutting tool, with a bit of patience you can cut metal. And this is what Ivan Miranda is roughly doing: taking micro passes for filing small amounts of material at a time. At the end the metal might be cut, but this is not milling. What else could he do as the machine is not able to stand average metal machining ?
Once again, I don't want to sound harsh, but this is fooling people I'm afraid. Some newcomers will invest a significant amount of money to build a mediocre machine. And as they have no other machine to compare with, they will be convinced this one is fine. That's what Ivan Miranda himself thinks by the way. Worst of all, people won't learn machining at all, they will only learn how to keep this machine from shaking while they try to make parts. I would say exactly the same about Nikodem Batknik's Dremel CNC.
I'm a graduated engineer and I've been designing machines for decades. I beg you all to never make structural parts out of 3D printing. Only rubber can be worst, let me tell you. And check the components are suitable for the use. Last, any one can drill a hole into a piece of metal: no extra skills or fancy tools required. Mild steel is 2€ per kg, filament at least 20€ per kg. Building a CNC router out of steel will cost way less than Ivan Miranda's. Definitely. Please think about all this when you will design yours.
Thanks for all the info! The only response I really have is that I (and probably many makers like me) simply don’t have the means to work with steel in any capacity yet. I’d love to make a much sturdier and accurate machine, but I don’t currently have any tools or space for real metalworking, so 3D printing it is 🤷🏻♂️. Also, I’m sure I could buy a sturdier machine for what this one cost, but the goal of this project was to learn more about CNC machines, their different parts, and to see how far a person can push 3D printing. This project certainly did that!
To your point though, my goal is to use this machine to machine a better machine and that machine to make a better machine and so on. So, I’ll definitely take your tips into consideration when selecting parts for my next build!
Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate the thoughtful feedback!
@@ModernHobbyist You're welcome. What you need to make a CNC router/mill out of steel is a hacksaw and a drill. You don't have to know how to weld as structural epoxy glue does it just fine and glue is probably cheaper than hardware to bolt everything on.
Did you heard about the "3D printing paradox" ? This was theorized back in the 70s. The point is additive manufacturing stands exactly where traditional manufacturing ends. In other words, what is long and/or complex and/or expensive to be done with subtractive manufacturing deserve to be done with additive manufacturing. And vice versa. There's also two major issues which comes with 3d printing. The first one, related to "the 3d printing paradox" is you can do anything with 3D printing, like your CNC router, for example. But that does not mean you should. For example, a front panel can be done on a 3D printer. But if you take a sheet of material, maybe aluminum, you will have a nicer, cheaper, stronger and better front panel within minutes with just a drill and a saw. While a 3d printed front panel will require way much time modeling and printing to get a questionable plastic thing. The second one is: as 3d printing allows to make very complex parts, people have a tendency to make over complex parts. Just have a look at Ivan Miranda's parts. 90% of them are unnecessarily complex, which also results of a complex assembly, as you noticed. So you may think twice prior to choose 3d printing for any job, especially about materials properties.
Don't get me wrong, 3D printing is a great technology which have many uses, and some parts can't be done another way. As long as you don't use this technology to print Pikatchu trinkets. 3D printing is the best technology ever for many parts. I own a printing farm and it runs all year long. But 3D printing should not be the most part of your workflow. Whatever a 3D printer can print in theory anything, its real range is way much smaller than you think. When you push 3d printing, you always brings issues which are difficult to identify. Like this CNC router : looks great and pro but it's so far to be. When using it, you'll endlessly face limitation or issues which comes from the wrong 3D printed parts and wrong components.
Let me give you some advises, if you don't mind. When the word structural comes into equation, forget 3D printing. Definitely. When the designed part is unnecessarily complex, you are probably going the wrong way : wrong technology, wrong material or wrong engineering direction.
Good luck for the next. Keep in mind this machine will allow you to learn machining with it only. The reality of CNC machining is elsewhere. When you'll get your hands on a proper machine, you will have to learn all again.
I'm looking forward to seeing what's coming next on your channel. Regards.
While I agree with Axel from the engineering stand point it's always better to use the tools and materials to what they're best suited at, the video production and the topic was entertaining at the very least so I would not knock him for being unaware. I myself being not being from a hardware engineering background and working on projects will double down on manufacturing techniques I am familiar ( 3D printing, laser cutting, basic wood working, and microcontrollers when working with electronics) with even when there are alternatives.This comes down to not knowing enough and being comfortable with what I know, but after a number of failures thats when one tends to branch out.
@@axelSixtySix I think the whole point is that this machine allows you to accurately cut aluminium parts; The speed is irrelevant if it's a capability you don't currently have.
You could use machine to re-make it's AM parts out of aluminium, and improve the rigidity of the frame.
If you're starting out and looking to spend under £2k - without investing significant time designing, sourcing, and making it by hand - There's very few viable options.
if you're a total beginner to CNC - as is the target for this machine/project, you may as well use the learning experience as what it is, and gain the ability to process aluminium accurately.
@@Matt3DMaker I strongly disagree about the words accurate and cut. That's the point you missed. Accurate milling of aluminium parts require much heavier machines, definitely. Here, you can't call this cutting, this is grinding with micro passes. The cut quality matches the machine's stiffness which is awfull obviously.
Now about the to eternal false arguments given: price and beginner/hobby. 3D printed parts are much expensive than steel or concrete which are both perfect mechanically talking. You build a whole machine with a £40 single steel beam or a single £12 fibred concrète bag. This way, you build a pretty capable machine way under £500. There's hundred of free plans available online. Google it in two clicks. Any one is able to drill a hole in a piece of metal or make a foam insulation mold with basic tools and no skills. Second, more than anyone else, beginners need a capable machine for two major reasons. First a capable machine is more forgiving. Second, you learn valuable experience with capable machines only. Rubbish machines just allow you learn tinkering with their limits.
There's no way a hobbyist would be delighted to use a mediocre machine. Definitely. And come on ! You get plug and play full aluminium CNC routers from way less than £2000, which will be delivered before you could 3D print all the parts. Let's face the truth ! 😉
My dad wants me to make this for him.
Based on the music choice, Footwork, Power Moves, or Both? 😎 🔥 💯 🕺
Good video but the music annoyed me ☺️
Neat! 👍
You should make gun parts with it. 😅
It's awesome but actually way too expensive for that price you can buy one and modify it to cut steel
Yeah in the end that’s probably true, but I definitely learned a ton during this process! I have wanted to try building a PrintNC with steel tubing and that would be a much beefier build for not much more money
Now, can you build one for me?
めっちゃ面白かった!
Spacers
Nice built but annoying music
TOY :P
And you get a Subscribe!
Thank you!
Great build/interesting machine BUT like many/most fun projects it's hardly useful for working on metal.
Like the engineer in one of the posts said the materials plastics etc you use aren't very suitable (too flexible etc).
If you're really serious about metalwork it would be more useful to buy a small new or used machine.
You can more or less "reverse engineer" that machine to learn how things SHOULD be designed.
You read the plans completely WRONG! its supposed to be red filament, its not going to be accurate. Jocks aside, very good video, you make it look easy. sub
Full disclosure, I am colorblind so you have to give me a pass on the Orange v. Red fiasco… thanks for the sub!
@@ModernHobbyist Oh, it looks wonderful
Funny joke dude. I almost cried
go state
💪💪
i think its a weird design, why not just use ballscrews
Thanks for watching! I hope to make a bigger DIY cnc in the future and will most likely go with ballscrews as well!
@@ModernHobbyist Ive planning to rebuld mine, Ive used nikodem bartniks design, but made it simpler and on bits left from 3d printer so ended up with weak rods, my next idea is to use a 9U cab as a case and mount all inside of it, on 12 or 14mm rods and ballscrews instead of standard leadscrews
the only reason i am hesitant to sub is this goofy ahh ahh ohio music. just go the diresta route and have the sped up shots be shop audio with a radio in the background going bing bong teedle tee dum
Great job my friend
Thanks!