I don’t know what 3/4” elevator shaft board he’s using but here in Wisconsin we use 1” thick gypsum “shaft wall liner”, used in conjunction with C/H channel and track. Then double layer 5/8” thick standard fire code wallboard by USG. If I remember right that will give a 2 hour burn rating.
Get green lid all purpose to tape with (paper, not mesh), about 1 bucket per 30 sheets roughly. Get some plus 3 to go on top of tape, roughly 1 bucket per 10 sheets
@@Cayoot topping has more glue in it, therefore it shrinks more and is harder to sand. The "topping" label is misleading in my mind, but we used to use it to texture ceilings that were not going to get painted. Topping is less gray than plus 3 or all purpose so it does an okay job for texture. Currently we use pro form brand all purpose to tape and/or texture, and pro form brand lite blue to coat with. We like it better because they are both close to the same shade of white. Hope this helps
We use the same mud. I actually wont use other products at all. No toppings ever. No Coat cornerbeads only.. Texture and tape with green all purpose, all coating is with +3.. Fibafuse tape.. 5 year labor warranty every job.. No problems ever..
Hi great vid. I have a handyman business and I do a lot of drywall patches. I don’t typically do whole rooms, but sometimes I do. So my question is, I was at Home Depot the other day getting mud for a room that I Sheetrocked. Typically with patches I use 20 minute mud and then I’ll just use joint compound from a box to texture with. But because I’m doing a whole room I wanted to get some topping too. So the Home Depot where I live sells “red dot joint all purpose compound” and then they have a “green dot all purpose joint and topping” So what is the deal with the green dot all purpose joint and topping?? Can It be used for joints while using mesh tape? Will it be as strong as the regular joint compound? Thank you.
Hi “Doctor”, I’m a beginner. I’m doing a bathroom renovation. I’ve removed a part of a wall and replaced it with a mold-resistant sheet rock. Now, it’s time to finish it but I have no clue what mud to use. Do I use different muds for different tasks such as smoothening uneven joints, taping, and coating? Thanks in advance.
I'll see if I can't post a better video on the types of mud but basically if it says all purpose it's for all purposes but the heavier mud that says all purpose has more adhesive in it so it glues the tape to the wall better
There are three types of mud setting compound, taping compound and topping compound. An all purpose can be used for everything except what the setting compound does.
Good video it's always nice to have someone explain some of the different muds especially when they're always coming up with something new thank you thank you keep it up☺☺☺
Ray, really appreciate your knowledge and contributions too the industry. Have question or am sharing, I notice plus 3 generally doesn't shrink. All purpose seems to shrink 25% +/-. When using dry mix 90, 45, 20 minutes they seem too maintain the consistency wet and dried without shrinking. I like the all purpose premixed when tapping as my skills are okay. I am not specialized drywaller. General contractor delivering all aspects without sub contractors.
After watching video, I am still confused. What do I use over screw pops and over exposed paper? I wanted to do two coats of plus/3 and then one finish coat. I dunno. any ideas?
Do what you said you want to do that will work. +3 is an all purpose compound and can be used in all phases of finishing. You cannot and shouldn't use Topping to tape with only use an all purpose.
Thanks man. Question. Sir, why does my spackling look different AFTER I paint it from the pre existing painted wall around the patch hole. Meaning, after painted, the place where spackling went has different look like it’s smother or something then the dry wall
It's called flashing you need to try to match the stipple of the old paint and then it'll look good I use a product called USG first coat to Prime it matches the stipple it's a high acrylic primer
Some good info but it didn't answer the question in the title. You didn't say a word about which mud to use for taping, which to use for topping, which to use for butt joints, which to use for corners,, etc. It may be obvious, but still that's why people watch TH-cam videos to have simple concepts explained and you mostly pointed out what was there but didn't say which mud to use when.
Love your visit to the big box store, but help me out. Once I have filled all the seams with Durabond 90, then I need a super smooth buttery compound like Westpac Materials Blue Dot which is unavailable in NYC. What can you recommend for using a bazooka taper followed by 10" and 12" flat boxes? Thanks!
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 Yes the rep at Columbia Tools said yesterday to use the green cover USG general purpose mixed with five to six sponge fulls of water. By the way my proposal about getting you a home improvement show was serious, I am a talent agent repping writers and actors. Thanks!
can you explain the difference between plaster and say regular usg all purpose green lid in terms of the chemical makeup for example how does the green not dry up in the can and can last like forever but a plaster say diamond veneer plaster or durabond will set up faster?
120 is realy good but more spaunching. 150 is faster and less spaunchin and around beads 150 look rond or kind of paint spot. The job is so tight at thé finish coalt and beads are so loaded show like excessif mud
I would like to know what kind of mud i can put it on my ceiling.. Is blue box mud.. Then green the other one is red box ... What is the color different from the boxes... Wht is the difference
The green box is a heavy mud made for taping a lot more glue in that the blue box is + 3 that is not pigmented it's the exact same as the red box but the red box is pigmented the green is for taping the other two are for topping and skimming
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 .. Oh man thank you for answering.. Iam a painter.. I know how to do the topping i learned long time ago.. But i was confused about the color of the boxes.. Iam fixing a room in my house now that i have time.. You have a new subscribed. Thanks.. I never thought you will answer
I bought a bucket of the ultra light weight joint compound to finish my step daughter's new room. Would you still mix alittle water in the compound? Or just use it as is? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! I usually do plumbing ans install floors. So this is new to me lol
It really depends on how it feels every box is different if I'm taping absolutely I'm going to thin it down but sometimes when I top with the first coat I might use it straight out of the box or bucket depending on how it feels. when I skim I'm going to thin it down again yes
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 its pretty thick right out of the bucket. Im taping the room. So maybe just add some water to alittle the compound and see how it goes?
I happend to see a bottle of "no pock" on the shelf, what's your experience with that product if any, and what's your opinion about it? Any feed back is greatly appreciated!
@@charliecoleman4730 ya I remember him saying something like that also. That if you use any additive that the mud won't be warrantied. Just curious what he thought about it
wow! the price of drywall mud varies by the area I guess! here in Toronto Canada a box of CGC machine mud cost $22. Our boxes are 17L which is roughly 4.5 us gallons. We don't get mud is pails over here which maybe a little strange but I'm just amazed at the difference of price
Great Info Sir !! Painter by trade, But been getting swamped with water damage Repairs ( McHenry IL) , Hope Your staying Busy !! Really Appreciate All Your work on this Channel 👍👍👍
You didn’t explain what’s right for us, which is the title of the video… maybe explain what the differences are between all of the ones you just showed us…
ProForm is not mold control becouse it doesn't have fillers that can mold like all the others use the mold control is only stopping the mold from the fillers they put in the product like wheat and rice in the low cost low quality brands
This was super helpful for me, thank you!
Not a single mention about which is better for taping?
You didn’t explain the differences between the types, which is what we really need to know.
Man you have a wealth of knowledge I’d love to be on the job sight with you!
***site
Shaft wall liner is 1 inch thick . 3/4 board is for achieving a particular fire rating without using two layers of 5/8 .
I don’t know what 3/4” elevator shaft board he’s using but here in Wisconsin we use 1” thick gypsum “shaft wall liner”, used in conjunction with C/H channel and track. Then double layer 5/8” thick standard fire code wallboard by USG. If I remember right that will give a 2 hour burn rating.
this was absolutely useless for someone trying to figure out what to use (first time drywalling)
Get green lid all purpose to tape with (paper, not mesh), about 1 bucket per 30 sheets roughly. Get some plus 3 to go on top of tape, roughly 1 bucket per 10 sheets
@@mikejake6360 Why plus 3 instead of regular "topping"? I'm not disagreeing with you, I just don't know, but would like to. Thanks btw, for the post.
@@Cayoot topping has more glue in it, therefore it shrinks more and is harder to sand. The "topping" label is misleading in my mind, but we used to use it to texture ceilings that were not going to get painted. Topping is less gray than plus 3 or all purpose so it does an okay job for texture. Currently we use pro form brand all purpose to tape and/or texture, and pro form brand lite blue to coat with. We like it better because they are both close to the same shade of white. Hope this helps
P.s. usg brand works fine, but the pro form can be harder to get
@@mikejake6360 Thank you for the excellent responses!
We use the same mud. I actually wont use other products at all. No toppings ever. No Coat cornerbeads only.. Texture and tape with green all purpose, all coating is with +3.. Fibafuse tape..
5 year labor warranty every job.. No problems ever..
Hi great vid. I have a handyman business and I do a lot of drywall patches. I don’t typically do whole rooms, but sometimes I do.
So my question is, I was at Home Depot the other day getting mud for a room that I Sheetrocked. Typically with patches I use 20 minute mud and then I’ll just use joint compound from a box to texture with. But because I’m doing a whole room I wanted to get some topping too. So the Home Depot where I live sells “red dot joint all purpose compound” and then they have a “green dot all purpose joint and topping”
So what is the deal with the green dot all purpose joint and topping??
Can It be used for joints while using mesh tape? Will it be as strong as the regular joint compound?
Thank you.
Hi “Doctor”, I’m a beginner. I’m doing a bathroom renovation. I’ve removed a part of a wall and replaced it with a mold-resistant sheet rock. Now, it’s time to finish it but I have no clue what mud to use. Do I use different muds for different tasks such as smoothening uneven joints, taping, and coating? Thanks in advance.
If it's just a small job you can use any light weight setting compound to tape and top then I like to finish with USG + 3 or something like it.
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 Can I use +3 for everything?
Yes but it doesn't glue the tape down as well
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 can’t find +3 anywhere. Is USG Topping Lite for filling and finish coating ok?
No. use any light weight all purpose not a topping mix.
If you're watching a clip on which mud to buy , you need to buy all purpose.
Only if you love difficult sanding
@@chrischurch4551 All Purpose "LITE" ...Or Topping LITE
So which do I use again?
Would be nice to know which to use for different applications
I'll see if I can't post a better video on the types of mud but basically if it says all purpose it's for all purposes but the heavier mud that says all purpose has more adhesive in it so it glues the tape to the wall better
You didn't really say what each of the different muds are used for?
There are three types of mud setting compound, taping compound and topping compound. An all purpose can be used for everything except what the setting compound does.
That dust control is soft if you brush against the wall it will leave marks
Good video it's always nice to have someone explain some of the different muds especially when they're always coming up with something new thank you thank you keep it up☺☺☺
Ray, really appreciate your knowledge and contributions too the industry. Have question or am sharing, I notice plus 3 generally doesn't shrink. All purpose seems to shrink 25% +/-. When using dry mix 90, 45, 20 minutes they seem too maintain the consistency wet and dried without shrinking. I like the all purpose premixed when tapping as my skills are okay. I am not specialized drywaller. General contractor delivering all aspects without sub contractors.
Actually the dry compounds 90 45 20 shrink more than + 3
Looks like a Menards-I have one near me across the street from HD, so best of both worlds lol :)
Sorry- replied to the wrong comment-duh!
Another great video, thanks doc!
Where were you when I needed you in Lowes today!?
Man I wish any place around me had this kind of selection...
thank you!
After watching video, I am still confused. What do I use over screw pops and over exposed paper? I wanted to do two coats of plus/3 and then one finish coat. I dunno. any ideas?
Do what you said you want to do that will work. +3 is an all purpose compound and can be used in all phases of finishing. You cannot and shouldn't use Topping to tape with only use an all purpose.
What’s your opinion on the medium ;the purple bucket ?seems like is very popular lately ;and many switch to that instead of the green.
"Green" board does nothing more then regular drywall it still grows mold and falls apart if it gets wet
There is no such thing as green board anymore it's all called mold tough
Love your videos , I just subscribed. You got good knowledge. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks man. Question. Sir, why does my spackling look different AFTER I paint it from the pre existing painted wall around the patch hole. Meaning, after painted, the place where spackling went has different look like it’s smother or something then the dry wall
It's called flashing you need to try to match the stipple of the old paint and then it'll look good I use a product called USG first coat to Prime it matches the stipple it's a high acrylic primer
Some good info but it didn't answer the question in the title.
You didn't say a word about which mud to use for taping, which to use for topping, which to use for butt joints, which to use for corners,, etc. It may be obvious, but still that's why people watch TH-cam videos to have simple concepts explained and you mostly pointed out what was there but didn't say which mud to use when.
You are looking at part 2 part 1 answers those questions
In bagging bathrooms I only use hot mud hell I only 20 min proform for everything
Love your visit to the big box store, but help me out. Once I have filled all the seams with Durabond 90, then I need a super smooth buttery compound like Westpac Materials Blue Dot which is unavailable in NYC. What can you recommend for using a bazooka taper followed by 10" and 12" flat boxes? Thanks!
The heavier all purposes not the lightweight have more adhesive in them and those work better in the bazooka
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 Yes the rep at Columbia Tools said yesterday to use the green cover USG general purpose mixed with five to six sponge fulls of water. By the way my proposal about getting you a home improvement show was serious, I am a talent agent repping writers and actors. Thanks!
I'm ready I edit very little what you see is what you get.
can you explain the difference between plaster and say regular usg all purpose green lid in terms of the chemical makeup for example how does the green not dry up in the can and can last like forever but a plaster say diamond veneer plaster or durabond will set up faster?
I have never really worked with plaster just drywall mud any Plastering I've done I did with drywall mud
120 is realy good but more spaunching. 150 is faster and less spaunchin and around beads 150 look rond or kind of paint spot. The job is so tight at thé finish coalt and beads are so loaded show like excessif mud
I would like to know what kind of mud i can put it on my ceiling.. Is blue box mud.. Then green the other one is red box ... What is the color different from the boxes... Wht is the difference
The green box is a heavy mud made for taping a lot more glue in that the blue box is + 3 that is not pigmented it's the exact same as the red box but the red box is pigmented the green is for taping the other two are for topping and skimming
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 .. Oh man thank you for answering.. Iam a painter.. I know how to do the topping i learned long time ago.. But i was confused about the color of the boxes.. Iam fixing a room in my house now that i have time.. You have a new subscribed. Thanks.. I never thought you will answer
I bought a bucket of the ultra light weight joint compound to finish my step daughter's new room. Would you still mix alittle water in the compound? Or just use it as is? Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! I usually do plumbing ans install floors. So this is new to me lol
It really depends on how it feels every box is different if I'm taping absolutely I'm going to thin it down but sometimes when I top with the first coat I might use it straight out of the box or bucket depending on how it feels. when I skim I'm going to thin it down again yes
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 its pretty thick right out of the bucket. Im taping the room. So maybe just add some water to alittle the compound and see how it goes?
Yes
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 thank you for taking the time to help me out my friend! Much appreciated!
I need to patch the drywall above my shower. They used skim coat I was told to make the texture and now it's flaking off. What do you recommend?
You have to remove everything that's flaking off and then seal it before you try to retexture it. Any loose paint or texture has to be removed.
th-cam.com/video/lS9zVNjIPQw/w-d-xo.html
I happend to see a bottle of "no pock" on the shelf, what's your experience with that product if any, and what's your opinion about it?
Any feed back is greatly appreciated!
tyler krug I want to say I've heard him say he doesn't use it, the mud manufacturer won't stand behind any product if you've used it.
@@charliecoleman4730 ya I remember him saying something like that also. That if you use any additive that the mud won't be warrantied. Just curious what he thought about it
I've tried a jug of it before I didn't notice a difference ,not worth the money
Did you save big money?
wow! the price of drywall mud varies by the area I guess! here in Toronto Canada a box of CGC machine mud cost $22. Our boxes are 17L which is roughly 4.5 us gallons. We don't get mud is pails over here which maybe a little strange but I'm just amazed at the difference of price
That's what ya call "free" health care lmao
Great Info Sir !! Painter by trade, But been getting swamped with water damage Repairs ( McHenry IL) , Hope Your staying Busy !! Really Appreciate All Your work on this Channel 👍👍👍
I work for a water and fire restoration company. And yup, that polar vortex really kicked our ass (Elmhurst, IL).
Do I need to thin the bucket compounds?
You may have found your answer at this point, but yer, you need to add water to thin it and to get rid of bubbles.
Are you in N.Illinois ?
Yes
TH-cam video of the month. Keep coming back ...Ray
Hi, what do you recommend for dry wall compound that dries faster so I can apply the paint on the same day.. Thank you.
Light weight 5
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 How long is the wait time for it to dry?
Sets up in 5 minutes use a heat gun and fan to paint the same day couple of hours
Do you thin or mix the all-purpose in the bucket or just open the bucket and put it on the wall?
I thin it always
Proform is way better then ez sand
Hamilton has a mud that I've used in California and it was incredible
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 Alright let's move to California
I'm not sure what's worse CA. or IL.
sir what is the suitable mud must be use in drywall flat box?
I like the lightweight all-purpose or pigmented + 3
Thank you for posting this video! Very informative and helpful to me. Much appreciated.
-subscriber
All you did was say what color you preferred. You never said why or what the difference was. This was a waste of time.
thank you
👍👍😊
The image is too offensive
You didn’t explain what’s right for us, which is the title of the video… maybe explain what the differences are between all of the ones you just showed us…
Thanks...great vid
ProForm is not mold control becouse it doesn't have fillers that can mold like all the others use the mold control is only stopping the mold from the fillers they put in the product like wheat and rice in the low cost low quality brands
What do they do to mold tough drywall?
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 i dont understand your comment
What product do they put in mold tough drywall to make it mold resistant?
@@THEDRYWALLDOCTOR1 i though we were talking about the mud not drywall itself
This does not explain anything. So get Plus 3?
What you doing in Lowes? Get out of there, Thats Home Owners supply store not Contractors 😜😜😜😜😜
Looks like a Menards to me-I have one near me across the street from HD so it's the best of both worlds for me lol :)
Menards
Zero use
I heard everything except finding the right one for each situation
Huh...
Your sound still kinda sucks
I know