Hey all, if you watch this vid and it helps you out it would be great if you'd share the love with a like, share or even a subscribe. All these things help the algorithm spread the word to other folks. I have a ton of other content to see as well. All welcome - come one - come all. Cheers 👍
Hi, Thanks for this great demonstration. I am now sold on getting the adapter and the track, fortunately I already have the saw. Do you receive affiliate commission for the links you provided, I could buy this from lots of places but want to support you if I can. Thanks again. Jamie
Appreciate Video clip! Forgive me for butting in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you thought about - Schallingora Dexterous Programme Scheme (should be on google have a look)? It is a good one of a kind product for building any shed in no time with no experience minus the headache. Ive heard some great things about it and my mate got excellent results with it.
Had it for a few years (typing in December 2024) Works great. Neighbours, daughter, and friends from church have all used my saw, track and the adapter and love it. However, setting depth is limited by the lack of precision and awkwardness of the circular saw. If I have a good slot of time in 2025 to make a lot of cabinets and other storage units for our relatively new house, I'll try to afford the corded plunge saw which will pay for itself in a week of cutting. And I fancy the new track clamps, if I can afford them. I used DiY track guides very effectively for years before I got my first track and the adapter but getting the purpose made stuff was well worth it. I still use my short DiY guides for crosscuts with my 85mm deep cut saw across 75mm = 3" thick posts or 45-degree mitre cuts in 50mm = 2" material
Note: I upgraded to 48T Oshlun blade before I made a cut th-cam.com/users/postUgkxvWxw4589nheZ_QlYwqaZpnQExQfvjV4_ This said, when combined with the Powertec 71153 track, the cut was glass-smooth and as straight as an arrow with no tear out! I was dubious about the kick-back preventer as it is a very simple, plastic device; but, it worked perfectly and is very easy to disengage when necessary. Simple and functional is often the best way of doing anything! Festool can keep its over-priced TS-55 and TS-75! Who needs such a pricey tool when an inexpensive, simple one does the job?! Very pleased! DFYNT Dtrain - TH-cam www.youtube.com
Right on. I have the full plunge and just don't want to beat it up on running long cuts on scrap or even aluminum. Also needed a 6.5 cordless in my game so this perfect since I have a bunch of track. Cheers from the states
Hey Chris, it has worked amazingly for me. I use it every time I need an accurate cut. A small amount of care is needed to ensure the bars are seated and positioned correctly, especially if you are taking it on and off all the time but other than that it works perfectly. It holds the saw very securely on the track and cuts dead straight. If you already have the saw and the track then I don't see a reason not to get the adapter. I definitely recommend it. Cheers.
Thanks for including the links to the exact products. Saves time. I had purchased the Makita 199232-5 guide rail adaptor and found it WORTHLESS on my little XSH03 circ saw. IMPOSSIBLE to tighten down enough to keep the saw bottom tail from moving more than 6mm! I thought surely this can't be the best Makita can do. Clicked on your vid and realized there was another guide rail adaptor with two attachment bars.
Yeah - works mint too. Obviously though it is the same idea as track saw there are quite a few differences when you get down to ease of use, power, cut quality etc. Would be interesting to compare.
@@Toyotaamazon80series Yes mate the sander is great - all this time though I thought it was brushless but alas ... it isn't 😔 (damn). It's nice and compact but I think I would prefer the one with the extra handle/knob on the side, but I don't think that one is available in cordless. It gets pretty good mileage too - with a 6Ah batty it would go and go and go I reckon. Dust collection is pretty good as is, and with a vacuum attached it's super good. I'm very happy with it. 👍 Not sure if you watch any of my other videos or not but we did a cock fight with two of these sanders - just a bit of tongue-in-cheek playin' around over Christmas holiday 😁 th-cam.com/video/hnt5mG_zZmA/w-d-xo.html
Just got this setup myself, since no one makes a right handed track saw (left blade). It's not perfect with the XSH03Z. But a few things I did to tweak it is to do this... 1) Saw Play: I unscrewed the fine adjustment knobs to get to the green spreading rings. I then put a thin strip of UHMW Tape on the side of the green ring that will make contact with track. It gives it a bit more depth to make better contact with track and make it not rock side to side as much. 2) Location of Metal arms that connect to the saw: This has been tough. Getting the saw blade to run true means it needs to be perfectly parallel to the track. Where the metal arms go into the track adapter is an issue. If you put it to "0" (Zero) it will turn the actual aluminum edge of your track into a splinter guard. So what I did was take a 2x4 on my sliding miter saw and cut a ¾" to 1" deep cut lengthwise. (You can do it width wise if you have a regular miter saw, but do 2 boards ate same depth.) Now, take your XSH03z, adapter, and track on top of the board(s) So your saw bkade can go onto the groove. It will rest straight and you can then mark out 90° and set the metal rods in the adapter, where they are at a true Zero. Then mark off the rods by overtightening the screw. Then take the metal rods out of everything, and you will see a little circle where the screw scratched the flat rod. Drill a hole there big enough for the threaded knob to fit through, and you now know where a true Zero is and the hold down knobs in adapter will actually pass through the flat bar, securing your Zero, perfectly every time. ..... It's a shame Makita (or any other good tool manufacturer) does not make a Blade Left track saw. I was a lefty until I lost use of left arm, to a virus. And track saws were heavenly as a lefty, since they were right blade. Righties have no idea what they're missing out on. I'm now a righty, and I can't use a right blade track saw. This adapter and the XSH03Z is the closest, and only real option to do long straight rip cuts for me. So until a true right handed (left blade) track saw exists, I'll be using this. (I'm currently trying to figure out a way to give it a spring plunge mechanism, and a side plate to make dust hose port more effective... but it's quite a pain.
Ignore the pain. I am most interested in what you are going to make out of it. In my opinion, a "half plunge" (soft way to push the blade down, no need to get it back up again) would be quite enough. Perhaps no springs needed, just something to make the push down firm and soft and something else, that would limit how low it goes. Once the cut is done and the blade doesn't rotate anymore there should, of course, be a way to get the blade up again. BTW, somebody is selling 3D printed covers for the hole in SP6000 - perhaps someone else would be willing to sell similar covers for DHS680 as well?
@@Pvalila since I wrote that comment, I made the same realization in terms of a depth stop, and soft plunge with no need for a retraction method. The issue I've noticed is how the baseplate will tilt right and kept a hair, if the depth clamp is is not engaged. It's not much, but it's enough to bits and throw the saw back. I'm still fiddling with the plunge obviously, but the faceplate was easy. I used a piece of cardboard to make a mock up stencil of a box frame that could be folded and cut so that it covered the entire blade housing. I then just unfolded it, and traced it onto a 1/16" 6061 sheet of aluminum. Then once I folded it to fit perfectly around it, I mounted it to the shoe, and voila... full dust collection. I even made a riving knife for it. But I still have issues with plunge, and square cuts when on the track. So I'm now making my own track and glide system using aluminum t-slots , t-track, and ⅛" aluminum sheeting. I'm still getting some bugs worked out, but it does glide much smoother, and cuts square. Plus I am going to make a riving knife that mounts to the track and moves behind the saw, without having to be attached to it. But the entire system might take a while to truly perfect to the point I feel satisfied with it.
Usually scoring cut of 3mm into the surface of plywood or melamine coated chipboard - backwards - with a 48-tooth blade or higher makes for a very clean cut in the crudest of material. And that's why I'd like to save up for the corded tracksaw because my circular saw with adapter takes longer to set depth than I like. I can't justify the purchase at the moment but... if can find time and money to make lots of cabinets for our relatively new house with not enough storage in 2025, the credit card might have to come out
I own that same model saw, but I did not realise that it could be adaptored to the rail guide in that particular fashion. So a big thank you from across the ditch Rob. (I found you from the Tools and Stuff channel and now I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks for helping me out with that video.)
Hey Kevin - glad the video helped you out! Welcome to the channel and I hope you enjoy what I have to offer here! Was it Tools' bottle opener vid? Cheers. 👍
@@TakamiWoodshop Yes that's the video Rob. I found your channel from the "Bottle Opener" video. I'm looking forward viewing the rest of your channel now.
I have just received my Circular saw. Purchased it on a description from amazon UK. Which stated it was track compatible. It turned out the saw required an adapter. Got upset with Amazon UK and Maketa UK. Maketa UK stated what looked very much like Maketa UK shop on Amazon UK was not theirs. The result being Amazon UK are changing their website and supplying me FOC an adapter.
Hi, yes it's very accurate. Deflection can be a problem on some hard woods, more so with thinner blades but it's not really a concern with this so much if you're cutting larger sheets or panels of plywood etc. It can be adjusted for different kerfs, kind of, generally with track saws you would just put on a blade and cut the splinter guard to establish the zero clearance and the cut line, and redo that when changing blades. It's tricky to line it up if you go thinner though, I've tried it. In this case I ended up moving the splinter guard out and recutting it. Hope this helps.
You have any issues with excessive play in the track? The back end of my adapter wants to lift up, even with the tension knobs maxed out.... placed on a flat surface i can see the plastic body doesn't lie flat. I have a feeling i've got a dud, must've warped, or been damaged in transit. Doesn't look like you have the same issues at all
Thanks for vid Rob Tee A1 good work Urock would you know what type of guide rail adaptor is compatible with the Makita 5900B 2000w saw I have a Makita track but can’t find any guide rail adaptor it doesn’t have to be a makita adaptor as long as it’s compatible with the Makita track and Makita saw 5900B 2000w
Hi Stiven, thanks for the comment. That's a tough question for me to answer I'm afraid, there are so many models out there on the market now. I wish I had an answer for you, but I can only suggest contacting your local Makita, or even Makita in other countries, and continuing to do your research on TH-cam etc. This may or not make you feel better but it also took me a long time to figure out which saw would be compatible with the various adapters and the track. Probably took me about 10 hours of researching before I had the confidence to make the purchase. Have you looked at the "generic" adapters? like the Kreg, and there are a couple of others but I don't think they run on the Makita track. ... tricky .... sorry mate!
In Australia you buy the Makita corded Track Saw with one guide rail (1400mm), for $749. Your cordless saw to buy here is $480 with a battery, guide rail is $99, adaptor is $75, total $654, spend an extra $90 for the real deal, appreciate it's corded though, I like your channel...
Hey James thanks mate. The prices are similar here. I saved a bit by buying from the USA. The advantage of this set up is that you can still use the saw for normal cutting .. like building a fence or whatever. I don't have enough usage to justify a dedicated track saw, much as I'd love to have one. Cheers
Just the video I was looking for, having recently got one of those Makita DHS680s! But can I ask what depth of cut you lose when using the track? I just need to make sure I’ll still have enough depth to, say, trim a door.
Just make sure you have the saw with the two attachment slots, the newer one has only one and uses a different adapter. There are some more details in the comments section here from a user named Zaar. Also I have links to both adapters in the description. Happy cutting man! 🤙
Nice ! . I just figured this stuff out myself yesterday and ordered the 2-55" Powetec Tracks with joining bars for 129.99 and the Makita track guide for 39.99 I already had the XSH 03 saw. I am cutting some 30" x 60" parts from sheets and it would be great. I plan on making a square for it, out of some 12mm Baltic birch plywood as I cant find any less than $150.00 here in the USA.
Hi There, I've got a Makita 165mm corded saw and I'm thinking this adapter and a rail would be just what I need speed things up. Is there any chance you could give me the measurement of the bars that connect the adapter to the saw? When I say measurement, I mean from the outside of one bar to the outside of the other. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers from the Waikato
Hey Colm, here's all the dimensions... The bar is 12 x 3 x 290mm, and 214 apart on centre. So 225 from outer edge to outer edge. Hope that helps down in the Waikato 👍🏻 cheers from Pukekohe!
Hey Ted. I think you are talking about the black plastic knobs on the adapter itself - they are just for locking the aluminium arms in place. The arms move in and out depending on what saw you are mounting the adapter to, or the angle you are cutting. When cutting 45¯ the adapter has to come out a tiny bit to allow room for the tilted blade. Hope this helps. Cheers 👍
Just called Makita Australia and they said this adaptor (196953-0) can be ordered through any of the authorized service centers (at least in Australia). For the reference, similar adaptor for DHS660 (the newer model) is 199232-5, however interestingly enough it only contains a single slat. Looking closer at other Makita saws, DHS680 featured here seems to be the only one that has two slots for inserting guiding slats (the rest have just one at the front) which probably makes it a more accurate glider (if it wasn't for flimsy fence that it).
Wow that's really interesting - the adapter with only one slat - I've never seen that before. I would definitely rather have two as I think you'd get better cuts from it.
@@TakamiWoodshop Yeah, what's interesting that as I said DHS680 appears to be the only saw with two slat inserts. However compared to the newer DHS660 which I had a chance to inspect, DHS680 has much flimsier fence locks, which affects cut quality, at least for me - just brought it to the service and the guy said there is not much can be done besides tightening locks as much as you can. Also it of course makes lots of sense that DHS660 is newer than DHS680, model numbers-wise ;)
Hi there I just got one of these today, may I ask you a couple of things? how did you cut the black trip off at the beginning of the track since the whole saw is not on the track and hence it wobbles which means an uneven cut. Also did you find when you line up to zero at both ends its not quite level - one side seems perhaps 1/3 mm out? or do you thing that makes no difference? thanks in advance
Hey Chris, for cutting the strip at the beginning I honestly don't remember what I did but I'd recommend placing a sacrificial board of some sort under the part of the saw that isn't on the track - say, some 2mm mdf or something - whatever it takes, and maybe setting up a straight edge if it helps to make that initial cut cleaner. Another way could be to loosen the depth of cut knob and plunge down into the strip - not sure if the blade would reach that far back though but worth investigating. If you can't get it cut consistently with the rest of the strip you just have to remember not to use that first part of it to line up with your marks. Or you could cut it away with a blade later on, or plunge in and make the cut on the bulk of the strip, then back the saw up to get that last little bit at the beginning. (I'm just thinking out loud here) Ultimately - borrow another track and run along it into your new one and you can't fail that way. About the adapter not being level - do you mean it has a bit of twist in it? I don't think it matters as long as the arms are set at zero (identically) at both ends the blade will run true and the weight of the saw will press down and take that 0.3mm out of the equation. Cheers man, good luck and happy cutting! 🤙
@@TakamiWoodshop yes thanks for the time, I just came to that conclusion about the beginning and end- its just for the saw to sit as you get to your stock to cut, it is 150cm long so good job really for that reason. The arms being zero - i noticed (forgot to say before) when they are both on zero the black plastic body that touches the metal of the saw (base) is not quite flush - a bit of a bigger spark than the other side that what got me thinking also about the zero marks are they accurate . so its either the markings are not accurate with each other or the main body of the black plasic is not quite true - like you said if its out just by 1/3mm then should be ok. also actually there is a risk of not putting to zero since the blade gets very close to the track it self. for some reason i was expecting the arms to 'click' in position for the zero - well I guess worse case I buy another rubber strip to try again :) .
The zero marking could be better I agree - I'd like it to click as well but what I do now is ignore the mark somewhat and try to just line it up with where I want it to be on the strip. You don't want to let the blade get close to the track (don't ask me how I know that 😉). One more trick with these tracks - you can peel off the strip and flip it around and start again if it gets too manky. The strips can get damage or inconsistencies by using blades with slightly different kerfs - that's actually how I ended up ripping a big strip of the aluminium off the side of mine. I set mine and leave it set now - I don't adjust it once I've dialed it in how I like it. The main reason I do this is that I also don't really trust the accuracy of the body, the zero marks, or anything really. Rather than rely solely on the marks it's worth double checking with a ruler or some calipers. Once you get it set up it's a cool tool though. Much much better than clamping on straight edges.
Hey Rob, Really late to this one, but wanted to ask a question if you're still around :) You mention in the description to try and never change the setup of the adapter bars as you'll never get them perfect again, but am I right in understanding that they would need to be adjusted if you were doing beveled cuts?
Thanks mate!! good to have some local viewers!! dunno about movie star but I do put on a bit of a performance in some of my other more recent vids - this is my best "hollywood" effort to date - just trying to keep it fun 😎🍻 th-cam.com/video/xq4fKzq4fwQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks fom the UK, was looking at this saw today to replace my circ saw but wanted a track too, didn't know that this combination could be used together,😊 saves me buying a track saw ££££££😱🤢🤮
Hi video, can I ask you somethings? at 3.11 when you did the mitre cut - what tool make etc did you use to get your 45 degrees so perfect? What saw did you have to cut the dowels flush (4.32) and lastly I love your drill press :) you selling it any time soon , looks old but built to last . thanks in advance
Hi Christopher - thanks for your comment. The tool at 3:11 is the Makita XSH03Z Cordless Circular Saw (amzn.to/3ccFGGy). For flush cutting dowels I'm using a Japanese made Shark Saw similar to this one - amzn.to/3iFihzK - I also have and recommend this one more than the Shark for flush trimming: amzn.to/32C5IzI The drill is a beauty indeed - but I have sold I already I'm afraid 😥. It was too small and wasn't very powerful. I've replaced it with a 1 HP model - 400% power increase and much larger capacity. Cheers mate!
Correct (ish). Technically it's a XSH03Z because I brought it back from the US, but in NZ it's model number is DHS680Z (165MM 18V LI-ION) . The only difference is that on my one the measurements are in inches whereas if I'd bought locally they'd just be metric. Sweet saw, sweet setup. I still don't have the plunge saw and I still use this rig all the time. Cheers. 👍 (Check out my other vids if you haven't already - come one come all)
I notice you are right-handed... Would you not be better using the Makita DHS660 or equivalent, ie, a saw specifically for right-handers? Using the DHS680 as a right-hander means that with your right hand on the main handle, you have to cross the blade with your left arm to grip the auxiliary handle, not ideal from a safety perspective, and your body position won't be ideal for good line of sight... But I do acknowledge that some people have a preference for having things the other way around for various, use-specific reasons...
I prefer blade-left saws because I can see the blade and the line better when I make the cut with my right hand. I don't think there are left handed / right handed saws per se, just blade-left/blade-right to cater to people's preferences. If I had a blade-right saw I would use it with my left hand probably. Things are a bit different when the saw is on the track - you don't have to see really - just push forward and go for it. Don't think I've ever used that aux handle except to carry the saw one place to another.
Thanks for the great idea! I'm a similar situation being a weekend warrior here in Down Under and already having DHS680z. It looked a shame to spend another $800+ for plunge saw that actually has the same cutting capacity as DH6S80z. Couple of questions please: 1. Does the blade aligns perfectly with the track edge such that you can align the track to you pencil mark and roll the saw? 2. I'm struggling to get 90° cuts with my saw, using rafter square as a guide as you do - it's always about half a mil or so off along the cut. Examining the saw, I noticed a free play in the fence - it's in the rear part of it, both left-right and up/down. Do you have that small free play in your fence? Thanks again!
Hey Zaar, This is a great way to save 800 bucks - I use it all the time and I've had it for about three years. Your questions - #1 yep - it's very easy to align the track to the pencil line and then the saw cuts perfectly along that line. It's very impressive - with clean perfect cuts too! #2 no. My saw doesn't have any play at all and it cuts perfectly every time - whatever angle I tell it to. I suspect yours has some damage or manufacturing fault - it shouldn't move at all. Thanks mate - hope this helps. Cheers, Rob
I've just got this adapter on a 680z and at the 0 mark the blade hits the rubber edge which is meant to be cut off I assume by the blade on the 1st pass idk ? For 230 bucks for the adaptor and rail I'm not convinced yet
It's plastic, ABS I think. It's tough as nails if that's what you're worried about. The arms are aluminium and there are stainless threaded inserts for locking them in place. Cheers.
@@TakamiWoodshop thanks for your quick reply as i am looking at this as an alternative to spending a fortune on a a plunge saw as i have not had a a lot of use for one ? although the ability to use a guide rail on times might come in handy ?
It has worked out really well for me in that respect, since I only occasionally have a need for a track saw or a circular saw. It saves both money and space.
@@TakamiWoodshop i am in the building trade and have an 18v circular saw but not that model so i am looking on e bay at a set that includes the saw the guide 2 x 1.5m rails and storage box for just shy of £300 and have the best of both worlds apart from then needing to sell my old circular saw
I'm not in the trades but I've used the 36V saw and done enough with my 18v to know that if I was in the trades I'd get the 36 volt. In my case I'm talking about wet timber for fences and decks and things. Also if you have lots of ply sheets to rip down... The 36 volt just felt way more capable and more of a time is money justification for spending more. Just my thoughts but regardless, I'm sure you won't regret the lovely tidy cuts you get with the track.
I have been looking at DIY track saw ideas on TH-cam for a while now. And given I have started looking to get a cordless Makita circ saw, I reckon you have made my mind up. With the 2 guide rail slots I think I can still make a good diy job myself One question though. Does the saw have an electronic brake? It sounded like it when you finished the 45deg cut but it isn't written on the saw like the other models by the looks
Hi, good video, did you find the cut using the guide was perfectly straight? also do you think the track and adaptor will fit the Makita HS7601J 190 mm Circular Saw (I am in the uk, why the change code for parts of the world god knows)
Thanks mate - it's really hard to say if it will work with your saw. The bars on the adapter are 215mm apart centre to centre if that helps. Been using it for a couple of years now and yes - it cuts dead straight every time. cheers, Rob
Excellent video, cheers mate! I've been lusting after the various pro-grade plunge saws for years now, but could never come close to justifying the cost. However, having recently make the jump to the Glorious Makita Master Race (after ~15 years as a home-gamer Ryobist) for completely unrelated reasons, I come to find out that they have a low-rent track saw option that I can realistically get into for not much more than $150 US on top of the saw I already need.
Thanks mate, glad the video was useful to you. I was in the no-name brand market for a long time before going to Makita - so glad I did. This saw is fantastic I have to say - it cuts at 90°, cuts straight and cuts clean, all the things my old saw didn't do - and this is even before you add the adapter and guide rail. (The dust collection port is an extra $10 or so) I made this other sled thing for it as well if you have time check it out - just an experimental thing at this point but it works fine: th-cam.com/video/DCcwjFEG88E/w-d-xo.html
Hi Rob, I just got the Makita dhs 680, tracking rail and the adaptor based on your review and tbh I'm a bit disappointed after using it... The adaptor wobbles to sides about 1mm and stops the saw from cutting straight. It actually screwed up the rubber too... Is there a step I might be missing? I'd really appreciate it if you have any suggestions or tips!
Hi, there are two black adjustment knobs to prevent this wobble. I've screwed up the rubber too. You have to be pretty careful when you adjust the aluminium arms. Good luck, don't give up 💪
Hi Travis - the saw does not need to be clipped unless you are doing 45° cuts in which case the saw will have a tendency to want to fall off - in this case there is a clip on the attachment to prevent that. It's only really for when the saw is sitting unattended - when you are making your cuts you'll be holding it firmly in place as you push through. I've been thinking about doing an update video after about a year of usage - my biggest tip is to make sure you have the attachment pushed right up to the stoppers, and don't forget to adjust the position for different angles. By failing to do these things I have cut most of the rubber strip off the track and even nicked the body of the track slightly. And finally - for narrow crosscuts (300 - 400 mm or less) I'd highly recommend the clamps that hold the track to the workpiece - I wish I had them - to prevent the weight of the saw upsetting the position of the track on your cut line. Enjoy the system - I sure do!
I think you can use ShopMate by Australia Post. I use the NZ Post equivalent all the time from USA. Rather than paying individual shipping from separate retailers - you can buy a bunch of stuff at once, have it all Amazon free shipped to their warehouse location in USA, and pay to ship it all to Aus/NZ as one shipment. shopmate.auspost.com.au/
Very useful video. Thanks. 🍻. I use Makita tools for everything mostly because once you’re on a battery platform it’s too expensive to change. The DHS680 is a brilliant little saw for almost every situation but the bloody dust chute is a complete dog spewing the dust straight into your guts or into your face if you’re lucky and a breeze gets up. The 660 (blade on right) has a better dust exhaust but I’m not sure if there’s an adaptor for that.
Got the HS660 a few days ago. There is an adapter for it. I ordered one yesterday along with 1 metre of track. One disappointment is the inconsistency of saw blade kerf. I'd have liked to change blades and not have to think about track rubber cutting. I do have an M-class dust extractor but will use my HS660 outside the shed. Eventually, I may stretch to a proper track saw if projects can justify it (daughter and her fiance buy a larger place that needs work)
Hi Rob, loved your vid prez. I’m late to the party on this but have a question please. I have a DHS680 and have just got the guide rail adapter. What way up do you fit the 2 rails? They’ve got P & D marks. Also is it different for LHS & RHS fit? Keep up the vids mate! They’re brilliant for late starters, like me. Cheers, Paul
Hey Paul, mine goes like so... Holding the adapter so as the embossed Makita is upside-down, insert the rails in from the left with the P side facing up. Then insert into the right side of the saw all the way to the positive stops. It does work in other configurations but this is the best I've discovered. Good luck mate, great piece of kit, I've had it for about three years now and use it all the time. The numbers on the rails are for the offset for the angle of your cut, but just double check that the blade isn't going to cut off the side of your track, don't ask me how I know 😖
@@TakamiWoodshop Thanks Rob. Much appreciated, mate. I must admit, I tried it out and got an almighty shock when it cut into the rubber guard a bit. But after thinking about it and looking at your notes, it seems that’s normal as it settles in?
Paul yes you cut the rubber strip the first time to establish the zero clearance splinter guard line. My advice is not to take the rails off all the time because if you don't set it up exactly the same each time you can be off that line either too far from the rubber for it to stop chip out, or trimming the aluminum itself like I did (ouch). Once you dial it in try and keep it. You can unstick that rubber and move it out a bit if it gets all manky. Needless to say, use a nice/sharp blade for best results 👍🏻
Hi Brian - I'm not sure what country you are in but I got mine at amazon.com in the US and was lucky enough to have it brought back here by a friend who was travelling, thus saving on shipping. There's a link to the adapter in the description box. You'll find the XSHO3Z saw linked on the same page. Cheers.
Hi Gareth - thanks for subscribing to my channel - hope you enjoy this and my other videos. I'm sorry but I couldn't tell you with any certainty that this adapter will work with Festool rails. I know there is some interoperability between some of the leading rail systems but it isn't something that I've experienced or researched at all so it wouldn't be right for me to give you an answer either way. If you can find evidence of a Makita plunge saw running on a Festool track that should provide the answer as the profile of the adapter is the same as the profile of the Makita plunge saw range. Cheers, Rob
hey cheers man! I don't have a blade specifically for plywood but I do know that using Makita blades give an absolutely mint cut whatever the material and using Irwin cheap rubbish from Bunnings hacked up the side of the track and the cut is much rougher - okay for framing or retaining timber etc, but it chips out quite a lot on plywood. I would just recommend a decent brand blade like Makita, DeWalt, Bosch, Diablo etc and stay away from the tempting cheap stuff if you're doing something that needs a nice cut. I've never used a super high end high tooth count blade on this as I don't do melamine etc - only ever done ply and MDF. Hope this helps. cheers mate.
Thanks for such a detailed answer! I have lined a batch with ply and aboutt do kitchen, also ply. I m waiting for the dhs680 to arrive in post. Also ordered 2 x 1.4 rails joiner and adapter. Keep the videos coming. .🤙🤙🤙
@@Hemi_68 The bach sounds like a cool project mate. I've been meaning to do a follow up to this video but anyway here are some extra things I'd recommend. 1. The adapter is confusing to set up at first - just make sure you end up with the body of the saw over the track and cutting on the left side. (most plunge saws are right blade so it will look weird if you compare it to other youtube vids etc) 2. once you set it up and cut the rubber splinter guard try not to ever change the set up of the adapter bars 'cos unless you get it dead nuts the second time it will either have a gap or eat away more and more of the splinter guard (and eventually the track itself as in my case) The important consequence there is that it will not be cutting on the line anymore so your cuts will be either too long or too short. 3. When it comes to making the money cuts (visible end grain etc) make sure the blade is really clean - even if it's sharp, if the tips of the teeth are gummed up with crap it will not make as nice a cut as possible. 4. lastly - if at all possible don't stop in the middle of a cut - steady pace with even forward and lateral pressure from start to finish. 5. really lastly - for making short cross cuts - because you need to have the track hanging off the end to get the cut started, it can tilt the whole track up and push it off your line - clamps or helper recommended. 6. I keep thinking of them, and forgive me if you know this already - the material on the track side is the keeper, the other side is the "waste" - if you have to make a cut where the waste side is your keeper, you need to offset the track from the line by the kerf (width) of the blade - otherwise your pieces end up too short by a couple of mm. There are some vids on YT about "track saw waste side cuts" etc These are all things I've learnt the hard (and expensive) way lol. Good luck mate, enjoy the bach.
Hi Mattia - I not 100% sure about the hs7611 - here's a video with the adapter on a HS7601J [th-cam.com/video/8X8ZA1_n-FY/w-d-xo.html] The bars have three spacing options - 200mm, 215mm, 230mm. I think your saw is "probably" compatible. 😁 (cheers from New Zealand 👋) There are also these other adapter options that you can look at: amzn.to/2tTDdve / amzn.to/2EQYj3s
Hi Rob, a great down to earth video. I have that saw here in UK and now want to buy the adapter. There seem s to be several Makita rail guide adapters over here. Do you have the part number please? Good luck with future videos.
Hello Christian - thanks for your comment! The part number in the US is "196953-0 Guide Rail Adapter". I'm afraid I don't know what it is for sure in the UK but you should be able to figure it out from the US one which I am 100% sure of. Makita has different model numbers for almost all their products here in the NZ and different markets; I have no idea why. Here's a link to it on Amazon: amzn.to/2px5qFo - if you are doing lots of crosscuts I would recommend the clamps for the track to stabilise it as the weight of the saw can tip it up and move it off the line. For long rips the track stays put just fine with its non-slip pads. I'd also like to reiterate this as a really worthwhile investment - it has enabled me many cuts with ease at a high level of accuracy that I'd struggled with in the past with clamps and straight edges. Best of luck and hope it goes well! Cheers, Rob
Hi Christopher, people have told me the adapter can be ordered through Makita stockists if you can't find it online in your country. If you call your local Makita head office they should be able to help further as well. Cheers, Rob
Good video mate, but i am really struggling with the offset position of your screws on the plywood behind you. Can you sort it out and post a video so i can sleep easy at night.
Thanks for posting this! I was wondering how the XSH03Z performed with the rail system attachment. I just ordered the saw today, the attachment and rail are next on my list.
doesnt work with all Makitas. For example, my model is a cordless one DS611, Makita dont make a guide for it for you to be able to use with their guide rail. so depending on which saw you have a better option may be to consider something like the Kreg accu-cut or just make a guide out of wood (theres plenty of examples on youtube)
Hey Rob, Nice video there. Im a hobbyist woodworker looking to get straighter cuts. Been using a straight edge jig but wanting more accuracy now. I noticed you glued the bits first then drilled holes for your dowels - I guess this is acceptable? I have a shelf bracket I want to build and was thinking about doing this to it. Also - do you get paid for affiliate links? I would want to purchase from you so you can get rewarded for your work. thank you
Hey Mike, thanks for the great comment. There are two or three reasons for using dowels. The primary reason is to add strength/reinforce the joint. In this case you're okay to add them after the glue up. This usage is a type of floating tenon, almost as good, and the same concept, as the Festool Domino. The second reason is to align the pieces of the joint AND add strength. In this case you would clamp accurately into position before drilling the holes for the dowels, and glue them all up at the end. The dowels ensure that the miter joint faces don't slip out of position once clamped with slippery glue. Thirdly, dowels can be used for decoration, so you can put them in after. For a shelf bracket you might want to look at adding "splines". You need a table saw for that really, otherwise, dowels could work I guess, they'd have to be long and quite big. If you use a half lap style of joinery you might not need either as the glue surface is very high and therefore very strong. The links in the description are affiliate links, thank you man 🙏.. Much appreciated, very kind of you. Best of luck, enjoy the hobby, it's a good one. Rob.
@@TakamiWoodshop ah thank you so much Rob. The little piece you showed near the end is really my style of pieces I like. I'm finding it really hard to figure out the best way to build these brackets efficiently with limited skills and tools.
same price everywhere mate - it's a few lbs cheaper for the adapter in the US, the track is much cheaper though. Expensive here in NZ too. I haven't ruined any $100 sheets of plywood since I bought it though. Priceless.
Looks like a very good system cuts the 45 quite accurately doesn't it. ....You need to keep the little LEGO man thing you've got going on to it's quite cool mate lol
Hey Rob, Where did you buy that? Do you have the model number? I have always been too tight to get a track saw, just the tracks cost a fortune! I always go for clamping on a steel straight edge. Good to see another Kiwi on here.
Woop, I wouldn't have this if I had a plunge saw either. But just curious - why do you say it is a bad design? In the video I thought I presented the case fairly well that it works pretty freakin' well. I've never had a problem with it in fact.
Hey Rob - Fantastic video! Got here from Scott Brown mentioning this video. Now subscribed! Been looking all over and hadn't found this info. Will now chase down the bits and pieces. Way cheaper and more versatile for a diyer over a plunge saw. Thanks mate. Cheers PP
Hey Poopy, cheers mate, hope it all goes well for you, been using this set up for a couple of years now and it's still mint for my needs. I've been thinking about getting another track to cut in half to use for crosscuts as well.
Hi Rob and followers, has anyone got experience of using this on thicker stock? I need to cut some firrings out of (old) 4 x 2 and wondered how it may fare? Thanks @takamiwoodshop for the great product test and review
This saw can rip 4x2 but I wouldn't use the track saw adapter - it would be better to use a rip guide thingy. For old and super hard wood you might need to do it in two passes- even for soft wood it's be easier. I've done both with this saw
Hey all, if you watch this vid and it helps you out it would be great if you'd share the love with a like, share or even a subscribe. All these things help the algorithm spread the word to other folks. I have a ton of other content to see as well. All welcome - come one - come all. Cheers 👍
Hi, Thanks for this great demonstration. I am now sold on getting the adapter and the track, fortunately I already have the saw. Do you receive affiliate commission for the links you provided, I could buy this from lots of places but want to support you if I can. Thanks again. Jamie
Wow thanks so much Jaime, I do get affiliate commission for the links. Much appreciated! ! I hope you enjoy the set up as much as I do. Rob
Appreciate Video clip! Forgive me for butting in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you thought about - Schallingora Dexterous Programme Scheme (should be on google have a look)? It is a good one of a kind product for building any shed in no time with no experience minus the headache. Ive heard some great things about it and my mate got excellent results with it.
Had it for a few years (typing in December 2024) Works great. Neighbours, daughter, and friends from church have all used my saw, track and the adapter and love it. However, setting depth is limited by the lack of precision and awkwardness of the circular saw. If I have a good slot of time in 2025 to make a lot of cabinets and other storage units for our relatively new house, I'll try to afford the corded plunge saw which will pay for itself in a week of cutting. And I fancy the new track clamps, if I can afford them. I used DiY track guides very effectively for years before I got my first track and the adapter but getting the purpose made stuff was well worth it. I still use my short DiY guides for crosscuts with my 85mm deep cut saw across 75mm = 3" thick posts or 45-degree mitre cuts in 50mm = 2" material
One minute into this video and already i have a big smile on my face. Thanks.
Note: I upgraded to 48T Oshlun blade before I made a cut th-cam.com/users/postUgkxvWxw4589nheZ_QlYwqaZpnQExQfvjV4_ This said, when combined with the Powertec 71153 track, the cut was glass-smooth and as straight as an arrow with no tear out! I was dubious about the kick-back preventer as it is a very simple, plastic device; but, it worked perfectly and is very easy to disengage when necessary. Simple and functional is often the best way of doing anything! Festool can keep its over-priced TS-55 and TS-75! Who needs such a pricey tool when an inexpensive, simple one does the job?! Very pleased! DFYNT Dtrain - TH-cam www.youtube.com
Right on. I have the full plunge and just don't want to beat it up on running long cuts on scrap or even aluminum. Also needed a 6.5 cordless in my game so this perfect since I have a bunch of track. Cheers from the states
Thank you for this video. This is the only demonstration I found in TH-cam that shows how to use the guide rail & adapter with the dhs680 saw.
Thank you for the feedback Danny. I'm glad the video was useful to you.
Hi how are you finding the guide rail adapter on your DHS680? I've got the saw and tracks and I'm very tempted to buy the adaptor.
Hey Chris, it has worked amazingly for me. I use it every time I need an accurate cut. A small amount of care is needed to ensure the bars are seated and positioned correctly, especially if you are taking it on and off all the time but other than that it works perfectly. It holds the saw very securely on the track and cuts dead straight. If you already have the saw and the track then I don't see a reason not to get the adapter. I definitely recommend it. Cheers.
@@TakamiWoodshop Thank you very much 👍
Thanks for including the links to the exact products. Saves time. I had purchased the Makita 199232-5 guide rail adaptor and found it WORTHLESS on my little XSH03 circ saw. IMPOSSIBLE to tighten down enough to keep the saw bottom tail from moving more than 6mm! I thought surely this can't be the best Makita can do. Clicked on your vid and realized there was another guide rail adaptor with two attachment bars.
No probs. I've heard that the single bar one isn't much good but some saws only have one slot for one bar - which is weird. Cheers.
Nice adapter mate! Awesome idea for people who don't want to spend a chunk of cash on the track saw
Yeah - works mint too. Obviously though it is the same idea as track saw there are quite a few differences when you get down to ease of use, power, cut quality etc. Would be interesting to compare.
@@TakamiWoodshop I have the Makita 36v tracksaw, with two 6ah batteries and a dual port charger it's a winning combo, 😁👍😎
Toolnut that's a winning combo for sure mate 👍 It's definitely something that is still on my list, even though I have the adapter thingy.
@@TakamiWoodshop Indeed, good review, 👍 I see you have the Makita 18v sander, is it any good? Pity it's not brushless, 🙄
@@Toyotaamazon80series Yes mate the sander is great - all this time though I thought it was brushless but alas ... it isn't 😔 (damn). It's nice and compact but I think I would prefer the one with the extra handle/knob on the side, but I don't think that one is available in cordless. It gets pretty good mileage too - with a 6Ah batty it would go and go and go I reckon. Dust collection is pretty good as is, and with a vacuum attached it's super good. I'm very happy with it. 👍 Not sure if you watch any of my other videos or not but we did a cock fight with two of these sanders - just a bit of tongue-in-cheek playin' around over Christmas holiday 😁 th-cam.com/video/hnt5mG_zZmA/w-d-xo.html
Just got this setup myself, since no one makes a right handed track saw (left blade).
It's not perfect with the XSH03Z. But a few things I did to tweak it is to do this...
1) Saw Play: I unscrewed the fine adjustment knobs to get to the green spreading rings. I then put a thin strip of UHMW Tape on the side of the green ring that will make contact with track. It gives it a bit more depth to make better contact with track and make it not rock side to side as much.
2) Location of Metal arms that connect to the saw: This has been tough. Getting the saw blade to run true means it needs to be perfectly parallel to the track. Where the metal arms go into the track adapter is an issue. If you put it to "0" (Zero) it will turn the actual aluminum edge of your track into a splinter guard. So what I did was take a 2x4 on my sliding miter saw and cut a ¾" to 1" deep cut lengthwise. (You can do it width wise if you have a regular miter saw, but do 2 boards ate same depth.)
Now, take your XSH03z, adapter, and track on top of the board(s) So your saw bkade can go onto the groove. It will rest straight and you can then mark out 90° and set the metal rods in the adapter, where they are at a true Zero. Then mark off the rods by overtightening the screw. Then take the metal rods out of everything, and you will see a little circle where the screw scratched the flat rod. Drill a hole there big enough for the threaded knob to fit through, and you now know where a true Zero is and the hold down knobs in adapter will actually pass through the flat bar, securing your Zero, perfectly every time.
.....
It's a shame Makita (or any other good tool manufacturer) does not make a Blade Left track saw.
I was a lefty until I lost use of left arm, to a virus. And track saws were heavenly as a lefty, since they were right blade. Righties have no idea what they're missing out on.
I'm now a righty, and I can't use a right blade track saw. This adapter and the XSH03Z is the closest, and only real option to do long straight rip cuts for me.
So until a true right handed (left blade) track saw exists, I'll be using this.
(I'm currently trying to figure out a way to give it a spring plunge mechanism, and a side plate to make dust hose port more effective... but it's quite a pain.
Ignore the pain. I am most interested in what you are going to make out of it. In my opinion, a "half plunge" (soft way to push the blade down, no need to get it back up again) would be quite enough. Perhaps no springs needed, just something to make the push down firm and soft and something else, that would limit how low it goes. Once the cut is done and the blade doesn't rotate anymore there should, of course, be a way to get the blade up again. BTW, somebody is selling 3D printed covers for the hole in SP6000 - perhaps someone else would be willing to sell similar covers for DHS680 as well?
@@Pvalila since I wrote that comment, I made the same realization in terms of a depth stop, and soft plunge with no need for a retraction method.
The issue I've noticed is how the baseplate will tilt right and kept a hair, if the depth clamp is is not engaged. It's not much, but it's enough to bits and throw the saw back.
I'm still fiddling with the plunge obviously, but the faceplate was easy. I used a piece of cardboard to make a mock up stencil of a box frame that could be folded and cut so that it covered the entire blade housing. I then just unfolded it, and traced it onto a 1/16" 6061 sheet of aluminum. Then once I folded it to fit perfectly around it, I mounted it to the shoe, and voila... full dust collection.
I even made a riving knife for it.
But I still have issues with plunge, and square cuts when on the track.
So I'm now making my own track and glide system using aluminum t-slots , t-track, and ⅛" aluminum sheeting. I'm still getting some bugs worked out, but it does glide much smoother, and cuts square. Plus I am going to make a riving knife that mounts to the track and moves behind the saw, without having to be attached to it. But the entire system might take a while to truly perfect to the point I feel satisfied with it.
I watched about 3 minutes of this video and had to become a subscriber. Your dry sense of humour and funny sound edits have me in stitches.
Thanks very much - I'm releasing a new video tomorrow - hope you enjoy it too. cheers.
I find that doing a shallowest possible scoring cut and then a full depth cut gives a super clean finish on all 4 edges of your material.
I've never tried that but will be doing some super expensive ply soon so I'll definitely give it a try. Cheers for the tip!
Rob Trautvetter - Takami Woodshop
Try it on a piece of scrap and let me know.
Usually scoring cut of 3mm into the surface of plywood or melamine coated chipboard - backwards - with a 48-tooth blade or higher makes for a very clean cut in the crudest of material.
And that's why I'd like to save up for the corded tracksaw because my circular saw with adapter takes longer to set depth than I like. I can't justify the purchase at the moment but... if can find time and money to make lots of cabinets for our relatively new house with not enough storage in 2025, the credit card might have to come out
Placemakers link still works 6 years later?
I own that same model saw, but I did not realise that it could be adaptored to the rail guide in that particular fashion. So a big thank you from across the ditch Rob. (I found you from the Tools and Stuff channel and now I've subscribed to your channel. Thanks for helping me out with that video.)
Hey Kevin - glad the video helped you out! Welcome to the channel and I hope you enjoy what I have to offer here! Was it Tools' bottle opener vid? Cheers. 👍
@@TakamiWoodshop Yes that's the video Rob. I found your channel from the "Bottle Opener" video. I'm looking forward viewing the rest of your channel now.
I think you owe me a beer Rob #BeerSubs
I have just received my Circular saw. Purchased it on a description from amazon UK. Which stated it was track compatible. It turned out the saw required an adapter. Got upset with Amazon UK and Maketa UK. Maketa UK stated what looked very much like Maketa UK shop on Amazon UK was not theirs.
The result being Amazon UK are changing their website and supplying me FOC an adapter.
I have an unused secondhand track and a bosch professional circ that I'll have to fab some guides to if it'll work !? Thanks for video 😊
If supported properly(a thin blade can make side deflection worse???) Is this accurate? Can you adjust it to different kerf blades?? Thanks
Hi, yes it's very accurate. Deflection can be a problem on some hard woods, more so with thinner blades but it's not really a concern with this so much if you're cutting larger sheets or panels of plywood etc. It can be adjusted for different kerfs, kind of, generally with track saws you would just put on a blade and cut the splinter guard to establish the zero clearance and the cut line, and redo that when changing blades. It's tricky to line it up if you go thinner though, I've tried it. In this case I ended up moving the splinter guard out and recutting it. Hope this helps.
You have any issues with excessive play in the track? The back end of my adapter wants to lift up, even with the tension knobs maxed out.... placed on a flat surface i can see the plastic body doesn't lie flat. I have a feeling i've got a dud, must've warped, or been damaged in transit. Doesn't look like you have the same issues at all
Ahh that's a pity. Mine is really tight with no play at all. Hope you get it sorted - can you return it maybe?
I know it's 2 years ago, but mine was bent too. I put it under some heavy weights when not in use and it seems to have flattened out again
Thanks for vid Rob Tee A1 good work Urock would you know what type of guide rail adaptor is compatible with the Makita 5900B 2000w saw I have a Makita track but can’t find any guide rail adaptor it doesn’t have to be a makita adaptor as long as it’s compatible with the Makita track and Makita saw 5900B 2000w
Hi Stiven, thanks for the comment. That's a tough question for me to answer I'm afraid, there are so many models out there on the market now. I wish I had an answer for you, but I can only suggest contacting your local Makita, or even Makita in other countries, and continuing to do your research on TH-cam etc.
This may or not make you feel better but it also took me a long time to figure out which saw would be compatible with the various adapters and the track. Probably took me about 10 hours of researching before I had the confidence to make the purchase.
Have you looked at the "generic" adapters? like the Kreg, and there are a couple of others but I don't think they run on the Makita track. ... tricky .... sorry mate!
I genuinely didn't know this existed, I'd been thinking about getting the kreg version with a sled thing, but this is the bizzo!
Oh cool man, yeah it's super handy.
In Australia you buy the Makita corded Track Saw with one guide rail (1400mm), for $749. Your cordless saw to buy here is $480 with a battery, guide rail is $99, adaptor is $75, total $654, spend an extra $90 for the real deal, appreciate it's corded though, I like your channel...
Hey James thanks mate. The prices are similar here. I saved a bit by buying from the USA. The advantage of this set up is that you can still use the saw for normal cutting .. like building a fence or whatever. I don't have enough usage to justify a dedicated track saw, much as I'd love to have one. Cheers
Just the video I was looking for, having recently got one of those Makita DHS680s! But can I ask what depth of cut you lose when using the track? I just need to make sure I’ll still have enough depth to, say, trim a door.
You only lose about 3mm ... Just the thickness of the track. Cheers 👍🏻
Rob Tee - Takami Woodshop - That’s hardly anything, making it an even more irresistible buy! Many thanks for the quick reply.
Just make sure you have the saw with the two attachment slots, the newer one has only one and uses a different adapter. There are some more details in the comments section here from a user named Zaar. Also I have links to both adapters in the description. Happy cutting man! 🤙
Great demonstration Rob, track saws have become the rage mate 👍👍👍🔨🔨🔨
List of all adapters with the saws:
Makita 195837 - 9 Führungsschienenadapter A
HS 7100
HS 7101
DHS 710
Makita 195838 - 7 Führungsschienenadapter B
DHS 630
HS 6100
HS 6101
Makita 197005 - 0 Führungsschienenadapter C
HS 7601
HS 7610
HS 7611
Makita 196953 - 0 Führungsschienenadapter D
DHS 680
Makita 197462 - 2 Führungsschienenadapter E
HS 6600
HS 6601
Makita 198570 - 2 Führungsschienenadapter F
HS 0600
Makita 199232 - 5
DHS 660
DHS 661
Makita 192505 - 5
5017 RKB
5603 R
5705 R
Makita 192506 - 3
5903 R
Makita 192507 - 1
5103 R
Makita 197252 - 3
DHS 630
HS 6101
HS 7101
DHS 710
Nice ! . I just figured this stuff out myself yesterday and ordered the 2-55" Powetec Tracks with joining bars for 129.99 and the Makita track guide for 39.99 I already had the XSH 03 saw. I am cutting some 30" x 60" parts from sheets and it would be great. I plan on making a square for it, out of some 12mm Baltic birch plywood as I cant find any less than $150.00 here in the USA.
Sounds great!
Is there an adaptor for the corded 5007mg model to use on a track???
Yep.
Hi There,
I've got a Makita 165mm corded saw and I'm thinking this adapter and a rail would be just what I need speed things up. Is there any chance you could give me the measurement of the bars that connect the adapter to the saw? When I say measurement, I mean from the outside of one bar to the outside of the other.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers from the Waikato
Hey Colm, here's all the dimensions...
The bar is 12 x 3 x 290mm, and 214 apart on centre. So 225 from outer edge to outer edge. Hope that helps down in the Waikato 👍🏻 cheers from Pukekohe!
@@TakamiWoodshop
Thanks Rob, it should work just fine, I appreciate the help.
What does the teal slide button do on the black plastic guide rail
It locks the guide rail adapter to the track so the saw doesn't topple over when it's tilted for miter cuts.
good gears Rob. what is the function of the knurled knobs ? - some sort of adjustment, but I can't quite fathom them
Hey Ted. I think you are talking about the black plastic knobs on the adapter itself - they are just for locking the aluminium arms in place. The arms move in and out depending on what saw you are mounting the adapter to, or the angle you are cutting. When cutting 45¯ the adapter has to come out a tiny bit to allow room for the tilted blade. Hope this helps. Cheers 👍
Just called Makita Australia and they said this adaptor (196953-0) can be ordered through any of the authorized service centers (at least in Australia). For the reference, similar adaptor for DHS660 (the newer model) is 199232-5, however interestingly enough it only contains a single slat. Looking closer at other Makita saws, DHS680 featured here seems to be the only one that has two slots for inserting guiding slats (the rest have just one at the front) which probably makes it a more accurate glider (if it wasn't for flimsy fence that it).
Wow that's really interesting - the adapter with only one slat - I've never seen that before. I would definitely rather have two as I think you'd get better cuts from it.
@@TakamiWoodshop Yeah, what's interesting that as I said DHS680 appears to be the only saw with two slat inserts. However compared to the newer DHS660 which I had a chance to inspect, DHS680 has much flimsier fence locks, which affects cut quality, at least for me - just brought it to the service and the guy said there is not much can be done besides tightening locks as much as you can. Also it of course makes lots of sense that DHS660 is newer than DHS680, model numbers-wise ;)
@@ZaarsShed yeah the numbering makes no sense at all 😮
Hi there I just got one of these today, may I ask you a couple of things? how did you cut the black trip off at the beginning of the track since the whole saw is not on the track and hence it wobbles which means an uneven cut. Also did you find when you line up to zero at both ends its not quite level - one side seems perhaps 1/3 mm out? or do you thing that makes no difference? thanks in advance
Hey Chris, for cutting the strip at the beginning I honestly don't remember what I did but I'd recommend placing a sacrificial board of some sort under the part of the saw that isn't on the track - say, some 2mm mdf or something - whatever it takes, and maybe setting up a straight edge if it helps to make that initial cut cleaner. Another way could be to loosen the depth of cut knob and plunge down into the strip - not sure if the blade would reach that far back though but worth investigating.
If you can't get it cut consistently with the rest of the strip you just have to remember not to use that first part of it to line up with your marks. Or you could cut it away with a blade later on, or plunge in and make the cut on the bulk of the strip, then back the saw up to get that last little bit at the beginning. (I'm just thinking out loud here) Ultimately - borrow another track and run along it into your new one and you can't fail that way.
About the adapter not being level - do you mean it has a bit of twist in it? I don't think it matters as long as the arms are set at zero (identically) at both ends the blade will run true and the weight of the saw will press down and take that 0.3mm out of the equation.
Cheers man, good luck and happy cutting! 🤙
@@TakamiWoodshop yes thanks for the time, I just came to that conclusion about the beginning and end- its just for the saw to sit as you get to your stock to cut, it is 150cm long so good job really for that reason. The arms being zero - i noticed (forgot to say before) when they are both on zero the black plastic body that touches the metal of the saw (base) is not quite flush - a bit of a bigger spark than the other side that what got me thinking also about the zero marks are they accurate . so its either the markings are not accurate with each other or the main body of the black plasic is not quite true - like you said if its out just by 1/3mm then should be ok. also actually there is a risk of not putting to zero since the blade gets very close to the track it self. for some reason i was expecting the arms to 'click' in position for the zero - well I guess worse case I buy another rubber strip to try again :) .
The zero marking could be better I agree - I'd like it to click as well but what I do now is ignore the mark somewhat and try to just line it up with where I want it to be on the strip. You don't want to let the blade get close to the track (don't ask me how I know that 😉).
One more trick with these tracks - you can peel off the strip and flip it around and start again if it gets too manky. The strips can get damage or inconsistencies by using blades with slightly different kerfs - that's actually how I ended up ripping a big strip of the aluminium off the side of mine.
I set mine and leave it set now - I don't adjust it once I've dialed it in how I like it. The main reason I do this is that I also don't really trust the accuracy of the body, the zero marks, or anything really. Rather than rely solely on the marks it's worth double checking with a ruler or some calipers.
Once you get it set up it's a cool tool though. Much much better than clamping on straight edges.
Hey Rob, Really late to this one, but wanted to ask a question if you're still around :)
You mention in the description to try and never change the setup of the adapter bars as you'll never get them perfect again, but am I right in understanding that they would need to be adjusted if you were doing beveled cuts?
Yeah that's correct, it does need to be adjusted for bevel cuts.
Your a movie star in the making true kiwiana. Style keep it up Bro.
Thanks mate!! good to have some local viewers!! dunno about movie star but I do put on a bit of a performance in some of my other more recent vids - this is my best "hollywood" effort to date - just trying to keep it fun 😎🍻 th-cam.com/video/xq4fKzq4fwQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks fom the UK, was looking at this saw today to replace my circ saw but wanted a track too, didn't know that this combination could be used together,😊 saves me buying a track saw ££££££😱🤢🤮
That's awesome man! Happy cutting! Cheers
Hi video, can I ask you somethings? at 3.11 when you did the mitre cut - what tool make etc did you use to get your 45 degrees so perfect? What saw did you have to cut the dowels flush (4.32) and lastly I love your drill press :) you selling it any time soon , looks old but built to last . thanks in advance
Hi Christopher - thanks for your comment. The tool at 3:11 is the Makita XSH03Z Cordless Circular Saw (amzn.to/3ccFGGy). For flush cutting dowels I'm using a Japanese made Shark Saw similar to this one - amzn.to/3iFihzK - I also have and recommend this one more than the Shark for flush trimming: amzn.to/32C5IzI
The drill is a beauty indeed - but I have sold I already I'm afraid 😥. It was too small and wasn't very powerful. I've replaced it with a 1 HP model - 400% power increase and much larger capacity.
Cheers mate!
@@TakamiWoodshop thanks for the info
Hi,did you say you have the "DHS680Z 165MM 18V LI-ION " ? thanks
Correct (ish). Technically it's a XSH03Z because I brought it back from the US, but in NZ it's model number is DHS680Z (165MM 18V LI-ION) . The only difference is that on my one the measurements are in inches whereas if I'd bought locally they'd just be metric. Sweet saw, sweet setup. I still don't have the plunge saw and I still use this rig all the time. Cheers. 👍 (Check out my other vids if you haven't already - come one come all)
I notice you are right-handed... Would you not be better using the Makita DHS660 or equivalent, ie, a saw specifically for right-handers? Using the DHS680 as a right-hander means that with your right hand on the main handle, you have to cross the blade with your left arm to grip the auxiliary handle, not ideal from a safety perspective, and your body position won't be ideal for good line of sight... But I do acknowledge that some people have a preference for having things the other way around for various, use-specific reasons...
I prefer blade-left saws because I can see the blade and the line better when I make the cut with my right hand. I don't think there are left handed / right handed saws per se, just blade-left/blade-right to cater to people's preferences. If I had a blade-right saw I would use it with my left hand probably. Things are a bit different when the saw is on the track - you don't have to see really - just push forward and go for it. Don't think I've ever used that aux handle except to carry the saw one place to another.
Thanks for the great idea! I'm a similar situation being a weekend warrior here in Down Under and already having DHS680z. It looked a shame to spend another $800+ for plunge saw that actually has the same cutting capacity as DH6S80z. Couple of questions please: 1. Does the blade aligns perfectly with the track edge such that you can align the track to you pencil mark and roll the saw? 2. I'm struggling to get 90° cuts with my saw, using rafter square as a guide as you do - it's always about half a mil or so off along the cut. Examining the saw, I noticed a free play in the fence - it's in the rear part of it, both left-right and up/down. Do you have that small free play in your fence? Thanks again!
Hey Zaar, This is a great way to save 800 bucks - I use it all the time and I've had it for about three years. Your questions - #1 yep - it's very easy to align the track to the pencil line and then the saw cuts perfectly along that line. It's very impressive - with clean perfect cuts too! #2 no. My saw doesn't have any play at all and it cuts perfectly every time - whatever angle I tell it to. I suspect yours has some damage or manufacturing fault - it shouldn't move at all.
Thanks mate - hope this helps. Cheers, Rob
Got the dhs680z also and was wondering about this
I've just got this adapter on a 680z and at the 0 mark the blade hits the rubber edge which is meant to be cut off I assume by the blade on the 1st pass idk ? For 230 bucks for the adaptor and rail I'm not convinced yet
I was just looking at that exact saw, and wanted to know if it would work with any track, even better given it’s Makita, and not a compatible option 🙂
It might work with festool tracks but I've never tried it
@@TakamiWoodshop if I could afford a festool track, I wouldn’t need a adapter. 😜 I was saying I’m glad it’s not some chinesium compatible option 🙂
Oh I get you now, I like the real deal too 🤙 no knock offs or "compatible"options
Is the attachement metal or plastic ? As its coming in around £50 in the uk
It's plastic, ABS I think. It's tough as nails if that's what you're worried about. The arms are aluminium and there are stainless threaded inserts for locking them in place. Cheers.
@@TakamiWoodshop thanks for your quick reply as i am looking at this as an alternative to spending a fortune on a a plunge saw as i have not had a a lot of use for one ? although the ability to use a guide rail on times might come in handy ?
It has worked out really well for me in that respect, since I only occasionally have a need for a track saw or a circular saw. It saves both money and space.
@@TakamiWoodshop i am in the building trade and have an 18v circular saw but not that model so i am looking on e bay at a set that includes the saw the guide 2 x 1.5m rails and storage box for just shy of £300 and have the best of both worlds apart from then needing to sell my old circular saw
I'm not in the trades but I've used the 36V saw and done enough with my 18v to know that if I was in the trades I'd get the 36 volt. In my case I'm talking about wet timber for fences and decks and things. Also if you have lots of ply sheets to rip down... The 36 volt just felt way more capable and more of a time is money justification for spending more. Just my thoughts but regardless, I'm sure you won't regret the lovely tidy cuts you get with the track.
I have been looking at DIY track saw ideas on TH-cam for a while now. And given I have started looking to get a cordless Makita circ saw, I reckon you have made my mind up. With the 2 guide rail slots I think I can still make a good diy job myself
One question though. Does the saw have an electronic brake? It sounded like it when you finished the 45deg cut but it isn't written on the saw like the other models by the looks
Hey dude, yes it does have a brake - you can see it in action on this other sled thing I made .. th-cam.com/video/DCcwjFEG88E/w-d-xo.html
@@TakamiWoodshop Onya Rob. That sled was a nice job too. Good to see he saw rip through that big laminated beam too. Will be getting one next week!
Hi, good video, did you find the cut using the guide was perfectly straight? also do you think the track and adaptor will fit the Makita HS7601J 190 mm Circular Saw (I am in the uk, why the change code for parts of the world god knows)
Thanks mate - it's really hard to say if it will work with your saw. The bars on the adapter are 215mm apart centre to centre if that helps. Been using it for a couple of years now and yes - it cuts dead straight every time. cheers, Rob
Excellent video, cheers mate! I've been lusting after the various pro-grade plunge saws for years now, but could never come close to justifying the cost. However, having recently make the jump to the Glorious Makita Master Race (after ~15 years as a home-gamer Ryobist) for completely unrelated reasons, I come to find out that they have a low-rent track saw option that I can realistically get into for not much more than $150 US on top of the saw I already need.
Thanks mate, glad the video was useful to you. I was in the no-name brand market for a long time before going to Makita - so glad I did. This saw is fantastic I have to say - it cuts at 90°, cuts straight and cuts clean, all the things my old saw didn't do - and this is even before you add the adapter and guide rail. (The dust collection port is an extra $10 or so)
I made this other sled thing for it as well if you have time check it out - just an experimental thing at this point but it works fine:
th-cam.com/video/DCcwjFEG88E/w-d-xo.html
Hi Rob, I just got the Makita dhs 680, tracking rail and the adaptor based on your review and tbh I'm a bit disappointed after using it... The adaptor wobbles to sides about 1mm and stops the saw from cutting straight. It actually screwed up the rubber too... Is there a step I might be missing? I'd really appreciate it if you have any suggestions or tips!
Hi, there are two black adjustment knobs to prevent this wobble. I've screwed up the rubber too. You have to be pretty careful when you adjust the aluminium arms. Good luck, don't give up 💪
Question about the attachment. Once it's connected to the saw, does the attachment clip into the track or is it just sitting on top in the channel?
Hi Travis - the saw does not need to be clipped unless you are doing 45° cuts in which case the saw will have a tendency to want to fall off - in this case there is a clip on the attachment to prevent that. It's only really for when the saw is sitting unattended - when you are making your cuts you'll be holding it firmly in place as you push through. I've been thinking about doing an update video after about a year of usage - my biggest tip is to make sure you have the attachment pushed right up to the stoppers, and don't forget to adjust the position for different angles. By failing to do these things I have cut most of the rubber strip off the track and even nicked the body of the track slightly. And finally - for narrow crosscuts (300 - 400 mm or less) I'd highly recommend the clamps that hold the track to the workpiece - I wish I had them - to prevent the weight of the saw upsetting the position of the track on your cut line. Enjoy the system - I sure do!
@@TakamiWoodshop Please do an update, we'd love to see your thoughts on vid
Just tried to purchase this on Amazon, buggers won't ship this to Australia 😥
I think you can use ShopMate by Australia Post. I use the NZ Post equivalent all the time from USA. Rather than paying individual shipping from separate retailers - you can buy a bunch of stuff at once, have it all Amazon free shipped to their warehouse location in USA, and pay to ship it all to Aus/NZ as one shipment.
shopmate.auspost.com.au/
A masterpiece!!!
Nice. Is that an official Makita part?
Yep, it's an official Makita part. More info in the video description of you're interested. Cheers
Very useful video. Thanks. 🍻. I use Makita tools for everything mostly because once you’re on a battery platform it’s too expensive to change. The DHS680 is a brilliant little saw for almost every situation but the bloody dust chute is a complete dog spewing the dust straight into your guts or into your face if you’re lucky and a breeze gets up. The 660 (blade on right) has a better dust exhaust but I’m not sure if there’s an adaptor for that.
Thanks mate - yeah I hear you on that dust chute!
Got the HS660 a few days ago. There is an adapter for it. I ordered one yesterday along with 1 metre of track. One disappointment is the inconsistency of saw blade kerf. I'd have liked to change blades and not have to think about track rubber cutting. I do have an M-class dust extractor but will use my HS660 outside the shed. Eventually, I may stretch to a proper track saw if projects can justify it (daughter and her fiance buy a larger place that needs work)
Your daughter should get the bigger place 👍👍
Hi Rob, loved your vid prez. I’m late to the party on this but have a question please. I have a DHS680 and have just got the guide rail adapter. What way up do you fit the 2 rails? They’ve got P & D marks. Also is it different for LHS & RHS fit? Keep up the vids mate! They’re brilliant for late starters, like me. Cheers, Paul
Hey Paul, mine goes like so...
Holding the adapter so as the embossed Makita is upside-down, insert the rails in from the left with the P side facing up.
Then insert into the right side of the saw all the way to the positive stops.
It does work in other configurations but this is the best I've discovered. Good luck mate, great piece of kit, I've had it for about three years now and use it all the time. The numbers on the rails are for the offset for the angle of your cut, but just double check that the blade isn't going to cut off the side of your track, don't ask me how I know 😖
@@TakamiWoodshop Thanks Rob. Much appreciated, mate. I must admit, I tried it out and got an almighty shock when it cut into the rubber guard a bit. But after thinking about it and looking at your notes, it seems that’s normal as it settles in?
Paul yes you cut the rubber strip the first time to establish the zero clearance splinter guard line. My advice is not to take the rails off all the time because if you don't set it up exactly the same each time you can be off that line either too far from the rubber for it to stop chip out, or trimming the aluminum itself like I did (ouch). Once you dial it in try and keep it. You can unstick that rubber and move it out a bit if it gets all manky. Needless to say, use a nice/sharp blade for best results 👍🏻
@@TakamiWoodshop Thanks Rob. Ripper! Makita should thank you as well because there is precious little info/guidance out there. Cheers, Paul
Can you cut your Deck with it?
Yep, both intentionally and accidentally depending on which the case may be.
I wish someone would make a nice aluminum version. The plastic ones from Makita are known to arrive curved out of shape.
Thanks for sharing Rob. Even though I have the makita plunge saw this would be a useful addition. Can you link me as to where I can buy this please.
Hi Brian - I'm not sure what country you are in but I got mine at amazon.com in the US and was lucky enough to have it brought back here by a friend who was travelling, thus saving on shipping. There's a link to the adapter in the description box. You'll find the XSHO3Z saw linked on the same page. Cheers.
Excellent work
Will this work with festool rails?
Hi Gareth - thanks for subscribing to my channel - hope you enjoy this and my other videos. I'm sorry but I couldn't tell you with any certainty that this adapter will work with Festool rails. I know there is some interoperability between some of the leading rail systems but it isn't something that I've experienced or researched at all so it wouldn't be right for me to give you an answer either way. If you can find evidence of a Makita plunge saw running on a Festool track that should provide the answer as the profile of the adapter is the same as the profile of the Makita plunge saw range. Cheers, Rob
@@TakamiWoodshop Makita tracksaws are compatible with Festool tracks so I'd imagine the adapter should fit a Festool rail.
Does this work with a 5007mg?
I'm afraid I don't know that answer to that question. The spec sheet on the Makita website might be able to tell you.
Hey mate. Love the videos. Do you have a specific blade on their to cut plywood?
hey cheers man! I don't have a blade specifically for plywood but I do know that using Makita blades give an absolutely mint cut whatever the material and using Irwin cheap rubbish from Bunnings hacked up the side of the track and the cut is much rougher - okay for framing or retaining timber etc, but it chips out quite a lot on plywood. I would just recommend a decent brand blade like Makita, DeWalt, Bosch, Diablo etc and stay away from the tempting cheap stuff if you're doing something that needs a nice cut.
I've never used a super high end high tooth count blade on this as I don't do melamine etc - only ever done ply and MDF.
Hope this helps. cheers mate.
Thanks for such a detailed answer! I have lined a batch with ply and aboutt do kitchen, also ply. I m waiting for the dhs680 to arrive in post. Also ordered 2 x 1.4 rails joiner and adapter. Keep the videos coming. .🤙🤙🤙
And you answered my question perfectly
@@Hemi_68 The bach sounds like a cool project mate. I've been meaning to do a follow up to this video but anyway here are some extra things I'd recommend.
1. The adapter is confusing to set up at first - just make sure you end up with the body of the saw over the track and cutting on the left side. (most plunge saws are right blade so it will look weird if you compare it to other youtube vids etc)
2. once you set it up and cut the rubber splinter guard try not to ever change the set up of the adapter bars 'cos unless you get it dead nuts the second time it will either have a gap or eat away more and more of the splinter guard (and eventually the track itself as in my case) The important consequence there is that it will not be cutting on the line anymore so your cuts will be either too long or too short.
3. When it comes to making the money cuts (visible end grain etc) make sure the blade is really clean - even if it's sharp, if the tips of the teeth are gummed up with crap it will not make as nice a cut as possible.
4. lastly - if at all possible don't stop in the middle of a cut - steady pace with even forward and lateral pressure from start to finish.
5. really lastly - for making short cross cuts - because you need to have the track hanging off the end to get the cut started, it can tilt the whole track up and push it off your line - clamps or helper recommended.
6. I keep thinking of them, and forgive me if you know this already - the material on the track side is the keeper, the other side is the "waste" - if you have to make a cut where the waste side is your keeper, you need to offset the track from the line by the kerf (width) of the blade - otherwise your pieces end up too short by a couple of mm. There are some vids on YT about "track saw waste side cuts" etc
These are all things I've learnt the hard (and expensive) way lol. Good luck mate, enjoy the bach.
These tips are gold. Add them to you video description. Or even better make a new video going through these tips.
How long is the set up time
Just a minute or two. I leave the arms in the adapter which speeds things up.
Good video man! Ps: Does this guide is compatible with Makita hs7611? Tanks from Italy🇮🇹
Hi Mattia - I not 100% sure about the hs7611 - here's a video with the adapter on a HS7601J [th-cam.com/video/8X8ZA1_n-FY/w-d-xo.html]
The bars have three spacing options - 200mm, 215mm, 230mm. I think your saw is "probably" compatible. 😁 (cheers from New Zealand 👋)
There are also these other adapter options that you can look at: amzn.to/2tTDdve / amzn.to/2EQYj3s
@@TakamiWoodshop tanks
Hi Rob, a great down to earth video. I have that saw here in UK and now want to buy the adapter. There seem s to be several Makita rail guide adapters over here. Do you have the part number please? Good luck with future videos.
Hello Christian - thanks for your comment! The part number in the US is "196953-0 Guide Rail Adapter". I'm afraid I don't know what it is for sure in the UK but you should be able to figure it out from the US one which I am 100% sure of. Makita has different model numbers for almost all their products here in the NZ and different markets; I have no idea why. Here's a link to it on Amazon: amzn.to/2px5qFo - if you are doing lots of crosscuts I would recommend the clamps for the track to stabilise it as the weight of the saw can tip it up and move it off the line. For long rips the track stays put just fine with its non-slip pads.
I'd also like to reiterate this as a really worthwhile investment - it has enabled me many cuts with ease at a high level of accuracy that I'd struggled with in the past with clamps and straight edges.
Best of luck and hope it goes well! Cheers, Rob
Hi, may I ask, did you find out the adapter name?
Hi Christopher, people have told me the adapter can be ordered through Makita stockists if you can't find it online in your country. If you call your local Makita head office they should be able to help further as well. Cheers, Rob
Good video mate, but i am really struggling with the offset position of your screws on the plywood behind you. Can you sort it out and post a video so i can sleep easy at night.
bahahaha 🤣🤣 (maybe I can photoshop it for ya)
Thanks for posting this! I was wondering how the XSH03Z performed with the rail system attachment. I just ordered the saw today, the attachment and rail are next on my list.
I just bought a track saw when I could have done this!!!
doesnt work with all Makitas. For example, my model is a cordless one DS611, Makita dont make a guide for it for you to be able to use with their guide rail. so depending on which saw you have a better option may be to consider something like the Kreg accu-cut or just make a guide out of wood (theres plenty of examples on youtube)
@@richsmart321 yeah good point, I have a different circular saw non Makita, so yeah but right now I'm sorry happy with the track saw I bought
Which track saw did you get @phantom?
@@TakamiWoodshop makita, needed it to do bevel cuts on long and wide pieces for furniture. Never seen bevel cuts for so nicely
Hey Rob, Nice video there. Im a hobbyist woodworker looking to get straighter cuts. Been using a straight edge jig but wanting more accuracy now.
I noticed you glued the bits first then drilled holes for your dowels - I guess this is acceptable? I have a shelf bracket I want to build and was thinking about doing this to it.
Also - do you get paid for affiliate links? I would want to purchase from you so you can get rewarded for your work.
thank you
Hey Mike, thanks for the great comment. There are two or three reasons for using dowels. The primary reason is to add strength/reinforce the joint. In this case you're okay to add them after the glue up. This usage is a type of floating tenon, almost as good, and the same concept, as the Festool Domino. The second reason is to align the pieces of the joint AND add strength. In this case you would clamp accurately into position before drilling the holes for the dowels, and glue them all up at the end. The dowels ensure that the miter joint faces don't slip out of position once clamped with slippery glue. Thirdly, dowels can be used for decoration, so you can put them in after. For a shelf bracket you might want to look at adding "splines". You need a table saw for that really, otherwise, dowels could work I guess, they'd have to be long and quite big.
If you use a half lap style of joinery you might not need either as the glue surface is very high and therefore very strong.
The links in the description are affiliate links, thank you man 🙏.. Much appreciated, very kind of you. Best of luck, enjoy the hobby, it's a good one.
Rob.
@@TakamiWoodshop ah thank you so much Rob. The little piece you showed near the end is really my style of pieces I like.
I'm finding it really hard to figure out the best way to build these brackets efficiently with limited skills and tools.
Awesome video mate, you just save me a stack ;) thanks :D
Very Helpful. !!! thanks ....
Double personality?
pretty random
Machida sells five-inch round tops and no guide rails in Korea. I don't know why they don't sell it.
five-inch round tops - is that saw name?
...ahh you also need the adaptor, £50 for adaptor and £100 for guide rail , mad expensive here in the UK :(
same price everywhere mate - it's a few lbs cheaper for the adapter in the US, the track is much cheaper though. Expensive here in NZ too. I haven't ruined any $100 sheets of plywood since I bought it though. Priceless.
Looks like a very good system cuts the 45 quite accurately doesn't it. ....You need to keep the little LEGO man thing you've got going on to it's quite cool mate lol
Doesn’t work for 5008mg model
Thank you
Only Makita 👍
Only Makita 🤙
Your voice went in to female mode at one stage : )
my voice is always like that but I just use software to make it more manly for the videos. I guess I missed a spot. 🤣🤪
I needs to get me one of them...
Nice review Rob track saws are very useful thanks for sharing 🔨👍
Hey Rob, Where did you buy that? Do you have the model number? I have always been too tight to get a track saw, just the tracks cost a fortune! I always go for clamping on a steel straight edge. Good to see another Kiwi on here.
I have got clamping a straight edge down to a fine art so that makes me reluctant to splash out on a plunge saw. Saving up for the 36v 10" mitre.
Welp. This will definitely NOT be replacing my plunge saw. Looks like a really nice saw though. Pretty bad track saw design though.
Woop, I wouldn't have this if I had a plunge saw either. But just curious - why do you say it is a bad design? In the video I thought I presented the case fairly well that it works pretty freakin' well. I've never had a problem with it in fact.
Off balance and looks like it could be a kickback death trap.
Watch out mate, you have a helium leak in your workshop :P
Lol ..squeak squeak 👍🥓
Rob Trautvetter - Takami Woodshop Super helpful video, thanks. This is exactly what I have been looking for.
Just order done
awesome mate, enjoy! 👍
อยากชื้อได้ทื่ไหน
th-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&redir_token=QUFFLUhqa0Vzd18zMXZpUENyOWhtQ1JVTXZxOC1ubzVZQXxBQ3Jtc0trWEsyTU5laTAwSnJ4Q2RLUWZvSk5OTTlDUzBURXZZVG03R0dHS2x0R095T3BRRWI1UzF5SF9LZl82ZExLNWhfUU10ejMyMG1rcWllTzh3QzJPS0tGTk41QnV4YmRWaWtfZ0RyTk1wTkRlNFA3dGpUQQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Famzn.to%2F2H33QGz&v=ebtYGC7mQbA
Wow this video has nearly had as many views as my top video.
heading towards my one mill channel views. Should have 10k subs in about 10k years too 🤣
@@TakamiWoodshop 400k views. Pretty good bro.
Yeah not bad aye
72,000 Views and you only have 1.3k subs.
😕?
I know! should be more right! 😵
I'm off to mega 10.
enjoy bro! I'd rather be there than here at bloody work for three more days 😫
Учи русский
Hey Rob - Fantastic video! Got here from Scott Brown mentioning this video. Now subscribed! Been looking all over and hadn't found this info. Will now chase down the bits and pieces. Way cheaper and more versatile for a diyer over a plunge saw. Thanks mate. Cheers PP
Hey Poopy, cheers mate, hope it all goes well for you, been using this set up for a couple of years now and it's still mint for my needs. I've been thinking about getting another track to cut in half to use for crosscuts as well.
Hi Rob and followers, has anyone got experience of using this on thicker stock? I need to cut some firrings out of (old) 4 x 2 and wondered how it may fare? Thanks @takamiwoodshop for the great product
test and review
This saw can rip 4x2 but I wouldn't use the track saw adapter - it would be better to use a rip guide thingy. For old and super hard wood you might need to do it in two passes- even for soft wood it's be easier. I've done both with this saw
@TakamiWoodshop thanks for the response :)