Right? Unless your building a mansion no use for it. Even with our full remodel i had to turn the water off maybe 3 or 4 times for an hour or two, not a big deal.
If I'm remodeling, I just throw a sharkbite valve in the room and shut if off there. I agree full manifold is overkill, but I would do that for sure if I could. . To each his own.
Doing manifolds and running every line individually is something the OGs used to do with soft/normal copper, nobody wants to pay for it anymore , my company stopped in the late 90s doing manifolds like this
@@realmechanicalengineer5792 “Never” a term used to describe a time no human has ever lived through and therefore wouldn’t know. Fact is many elements come into play and adding more unnecessary terminations is one. Also a manifold isn’t Pex haus just connects to it. Seen them leak after years of trouble free service. Wear parts(all valves) DO fail don’t lie to the lion to take advantage of the sheep.
Good connections assumed, and all equal. This would not pose a greater threat for leaks.. actually, statistically, it's the opposite. Less branch connections are being made as each area is a home run to the manifold on a pressure regulator.
@@ShaneHolly Math wasn’t your thing in school I take it. “Statistically” more connections in any trade is more fail points. No matter what, in a manifold you have at least 2 extra connection points. Also a manifold is not rated the same as pex or some pex fittings for sub freezing temps. Extra cost is also ridiculous. If you add the amount of branch connections up and the amount of manifold connections it would be obvious, well, to some… There are also many extra seals and valves. Good luck out there!
Don't add extra stuff in your house on the hypothetical chance you might remodel in the future it probably won't even be you. Someone wants to remodel 20 years in the future just add a shut off in the basement it'll take all of 20 minutes...
One school of thought is that if you install a valve when the original plumbing is done it will last until you want it to shut off the water for a repair/remodel down the road, and then you'll get to shut down more of the house and replace the valve while you're doing the project that the valve would have been useful for.
I've got a bathroom remodel tip: If you haven't rocked yet, and know where towel rods, hooks and tp holder is going to go, put some wood in there. You'll have something to screw to.
Good thought but if not the metal drywall anchors that thread in are very strong. I remodeled my parents bathroom 7 years ago and the towel rods are all still rock solid. The old ones were falling out of the wall
I second this. I recently cut open the walls in both of my bathrooms and put up 2x6 blocking where our towel rods go. I wish the builders would have done something so damn simple like that.
@@terdferguson1736 have you never changed baseboard after the toilets in? More often then not you have to pull the toilet or had to put baseboard in after the toilets in already.
I just did a baseboard install, really isn't that bad. I just put a scarf joint behind the toilet where nobody will ever see it (Plus if you do the joint right, no one sees it anyway). The escutcheon plate was right over the top of the baseboard, so I took out a hole saw of the same diameter and pre-cut the hole prior to nailing. As much as I wish the plumbers had been considerate back in the 90s, it really was not that big of a deal and ultimately did not look bad.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 yeah I work on the East Coast in Fairfax county Virginia which is notoriously one of the hardest on builders inspection wise. At least residential. It's one of the richest counties in America, which means there's hundreds of inspectors with nothing but time
@Jase Bamber bro you complain about amateur hour and act like you're still running Type-B PEX lolol you have no loss with Upunor Edit: Also I would like to know where you're bending type b pipe to 90 degrees in a 2x4 wall with out kinking it
@jasebamber7899 plumber here, that’s not true…..sort of…. Let me explain, as soon as everything in the house is shut off, but still under pressure, everything is going to be the exact same pressure on the same floor. You will lose 4.3 psi for every 10’ in elevation. So if you have 50psi at the meter in the basement, you will have approximately 45.7 psi on the first floor and 41.7 psi on the second floor if you have 10’ ceilings. Second part of your question regarding elbows and t’s, you will lose some ‘volume’ with long runs of pipe and numerous fittings because of frictional losses. It will depend on what demand the farthest fixture puts on the system. For example, A tub spout fully open will draw a lot more water than a fill valve on a toilet. Hope this helps! The technical terms here and static pressure and dynamic pressure.
8 over and 8 up is what se do. However I'm about to adjust that to 8.5 or 9. Last couple houses my builder went with 6" base material. Had to shave like a 1/4" off the bottom of the escutcheon.
On the stub out above the base boards, remember that an escutcheon plate will also be installed to make the hole through the drywall look nicer; so the height above the base boards needs to also account for the size of that escutcheon plate.
@@Dudjrkfjjffjkffu absolutely. The pex is cheap especially if you use the crimp ring fittings. I’m buying a new house and I’m going to make a manifold. I’m a plumber so it’ll be quick and easy but I think I’ll use copper so it’ll be a few dollars
Flooring installer here thank you for addressing the baseboard issue in many cases the middle might work but for most flooring installers we just prefer that you put it higher than 4 in off of the ground and remember there's anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch added by flooring two and a half an inch to 3/4 of an inch depending on the type of flooring if you know it's going to be hardwood just put it four to five inches above the ground because 3/4 of that is going to be taken up by hardwood floor
Building a manifold in for remodeling in the future… how many times you gonna remodel that house where you’re gonna be shutting off entire zones at a time?
The manifold is very rare and can be very expensive. The main shut off that every house has usually by the front door or somewhere in front of the house is enough for an emergency shut off.
Good knowledge. But illegal plumbing at the manifold. You should have longer pieces of pipe in between fittings per manufacture specs. Also, depending on location your water can eat the copper pipe, so go pex all the way.
I don't know that you could utilize both, unless you had a pump on each hot water line. Mainly because when it's manifolded like each line has its own shut off where as when it's looped you can just attach to the furthest away and run 1 pump
@@johnknightiii1351 2 home runs? Like a manifold for a recirculation pump? I ran a radiant heat system were the pump pushed the water away from the heat source instead of using it to push it back to the heat source, but it was a zero pressure system so I don't know if it would work as well pressurized. Either way something fun to think about,, Edit: after a little thought I think that if you ran a return line from each hot water point of use back to a return manifold then the shortest runs would benefit but I would think the longer ones would suffer just because of path of least resistance. Also you would need quite a bit bigger pump than normal because you are going to be pumping quite a bit more water. Some of those taco pumps only pump like 3 gallons a minute and in a regular 2 bath house you'd be adding hundreds of feet of line. I am by no means a hydronic expert and would love to see one of these doing its thing
@@johnscott5187 yeah two home runs, seems like it would be great for high end properties as the extra cost of the pex is negligible compared to the benifits at that point. I would have even paid extra for it on my current house
@@johnknightiii1351 if all of your piping is accessible in the attic it's not to late to manifold it yourself and set up a pump! I couldn't deal with not having a recirculation line, my house is nothing fancy but it takes forever to get hot without the pump
A hot water re-circulation loop or commonly known as a secondary hot water loop in Europe is pretty common in larger homes/commercial settings. However it does mean you can't have a centralised manifold.
How can you ensure without a doubt that plumbing will NEVER leak behind a wall? Would be nice if home contractors would tell you where you can and can't hang thing for risk of drilling into plumbing or electrical wiring..
Manifold is a pex thing,way to expensive to sweat in copper. base board info is ok along with wainscot tile so you make sure your supply is right height and your toilet flange is located properly. No 10” rough toilets
Like the idea of the manifold to shut stuff off but leads to lots of pressure and flow loss in the uk if we’re doing a bathroom we just shut the water off for half an hour cut the pipe work and use speedfit or hep blanks or whatever blanks people like to use basically your version of shark bite but plastic
I don't like the manifold system because it's not compatible with a hot water circulation pump. The hard pipe idea is good. Maybe not necessary under a sink. But the toilet is a good place in my opinion.
few years back we got a cheap house and the pipes needed to be replaced. We chose to go with Pex to save money and put in a manifold. Fast forward to about a month ago and I decide to change out my bathroom faucet. The geniuses who owned the home before installed the cabinet in such a way that one of the localized shutoffs was pretty much inaccessible. I was so happy to have shut offs for the bathroom in the manifold and not have to shut the whole house down.
Never use the manifold. It sounds like a good thing but it’s not. It makes your hot water take so much longer to get to everything. I put it in and took it out after about a 6 months.
I love this video and I'm sad to say the plumbers in Eastern Canada not sure if it's everywhere well not use any copper anymore we have redone our whole house and everything is packed and the water has not tasted the same since it has a muskie flavor smells like rotten eggs at times but only I can smell it think I'm a dog lol but we have a well point as well
Did the Plumber stub out hard copper on purpose instead of the pex copper bullets? My plumbers have been having problems with leaky angle stops on the pex copper stubouts. The Tight Zone is small on those stub outs.
I'm a UK plumber but I insist in installing a entire manifold for new bathrooms but for each appliance hot and cold in bathrooms that have gone for the pipeless design
Might look clean, but manifold systems are garbage. No circ system, so you will be waiting for hot water at distant fixtures. Adding unnecessary joints just to make bends and stubing out copper restricts water flow and adds potential for leaks later on.
The manifold idea sounds good, but I’ve never seen one. I had a 5 1/2 bath home, if you wanted to shut-off the water, you went to the main shut-off for the entire home. Each bathroom had shut-off valves under the sink and toilet, there were none for shower or tub.
that last cant be used on every job depending how big the house is you dont want excess long run of water depriving the bathrooms etc of water pressure...
@@geremypelleran8487 20 bucks? That’s what you’re plumber probably makes an hour. Your just a pencil pusher who’s being enlightened while being sold on some upgrades 😂
Not sure why all plumbers put the water stub out for the toilet so close to the baseboard still, unless your using a hard supply line, put it close to the tank and just loop a flexie in.
I just got super lucky yesterday installing baseboards in a bathroom remodel I did. I will not forget to check the height of the toilet water supply line ever again. Getting lucky is not good in my book lol.
Localized shutoff is a good idea but the execution shown is just stupid. We usually do it just outside the between where it branches off the main line and the bathroom usually in an access panel located in a hallway closet. 1. Uses significantly less material, only added material is just the extra valves, therefore less cost. 2. If something happens and the water needs to be shut off to the entire room immediately the valves are close and a person doesn't have to go all the way to the basement or wherever the primary valves are located.
If you want rigid stub-outs, you can run PEX wing-l's with stainless or galvanized steel nipples coming out of them. If you're really married to copper they make copper stub outs that don't require that brass 90 to be soldered. Also, manifolds are great and all. They provide a lot of utility and isolation, but the problem with manifolds is that you have to return every pipe to one area so you end up with significantly more pipe than normal. That's not the end of the world, but it is worth considering. A few key isolation valves in a basement could accomplish a similar thing to a manifold with much less pipe in some situations.
Why would you run all pex just to let it rust up in a galvanized nipple at the end. Also they're called drop ear El's and also the manifolds are good in some situations but all the extra pipe needed is going to make most people reconsider right away as it can take 2 to 4 times more pipe and there's better option in most cases if your plumber knows what he's doing. It's especially a bad idea to take ideas from a stranger in the internet building a new house with plenty of money and use those tips like you can save money in your 100 year old fix er upper
Recently worked on a house with dedicated lines for each fixture/room and a huge manifold block. It has dozens of leaks points with all the valves and 40 or so lines coming in. Guess what. It's leaking at three of the valves. To fix it the entire manifold must be disassembled potentially creating other leaks. My guess is every seal in it will have to be replaced. If you do this system, don't use those premade manifold blocks. Buy the ones that are metal and make sure every component can be replaced without affecting others.
Generally put the toilet between 8-9” from the concrete. If you have a huge 10” baseboard in when you’re going to want to lower it, because if you raise it you raise it you risk getting in the way of some toilets. It should be between 6-8” from the center of the toilet phalange also as a rule of thumb. Make sure the measurements will work with the toilet you’re buying
I agree with everything except the manifold; from what I understand they tend to leak over time, and it’s additional connections that’s are unnecessary.
They aren't great for getting quick hot water either. It is nice to be able to turn on a faucet downstream of a faucet that was just ran for hot water and already have hot water to that point. A manifold adds more length to the run. I like the concept of ability to isolate a room for future maintenance, but for the customers daily use and efficiency and water conservation, manifolds aren't so great.
Who tells you guys this stuff lol. Your bad plumber? Look at this guys work it’s pretty damn good . Most likely your plumbers doesn’t come close. This is top 10% work. Sure A manifold with a shitty problem is more joints where his bad work could be exposed on but not for a quality guy. And the person saying it take longer to get hot water off a manifold is insane. It’s all traveling the same distance off a manifold or branched of a line. It’s still all coming from the hot water heater.
@@terdferguson1736 Say for instance a kitchen faucet is 20 ft. from the water heater and 15 ft beyond that is the laundry and and a bathroom. Total of 35 ft. right? Now say without a manifold set-up if you ran hot water at the kitchen faucet it would already be 20 ft. closer than it would be otherwise. With a manifold for example, you wash dishes at the kitchen sink then go shower. That water line from the w.h. to the kitchen faucet or dishwasher is purged of cold water and full of hot. Turning on the shower faucet, now you have to purge the volume of an additional 35 ft. to get hot water for a shower, all while dumping the purge water down the drain and putting an additional 35 ft. worth of water volume into the w.h. that has to be heated. Now for instance if you weren't using hot water in the kitchen immediately prior to showering it wouldn't make a difference if it was a manifold set-up or not. At least with a traditional water line installation, some of the time water and energy would be saved. With a manifold you always have to purge whatever distance worth of water from it to the point of use.
Stub out in copper on nice houses. Stub out in pex on cheap houses. Stub out waterline at 8” above finish floor for toilet unless your in a nice house that may have 8” baseboard, in which case verify with the builder. And never install a manifold system in any house because they are totally dumb and a huge waste of money
Pro tip, don't ever make a 1/2 manifold then stub 20 lines off it. Up size your manifold then stub in half so they don't have pressure loss when using more then 2 fixtures. Smh
You aren’t serious are you? Are you being sarcastic? I didn’t catch on at first, then I saw what you call a manifold, ha! Manifolds have 1 inch lines going in and 1/2 coming out. Never seen any cob job like that where I work.
Ridiculous to install manifold. Makes much more sense to simply use shutoff valves in water serviced rooms and (if needed to renovate) push fit (generic Shark bite) end caps as a temporary measure. Manifold is a very expensive add-on for something you never use/need. KISS.
The shut off manifold is a complete waste of money and not a small amount of money either. Whoever that jackass is, he knows didley squat about plumbing, but he does know how to rip of the owners.
These are plumbing tips you get from a carpenter
Exactly. No mention of the 50% cost increase to run the manifold system. Hell, 80% on a renovation 😂
A-good
B-good
C-massive overkill for residential.
Right? Unless your building a mansion no use for it. Even with our full remodel i had to turn the water off maybe 3 or 4 times for an hour or two, not a big deal.
If I'm remodeling, I just throw a sharkbite valve in the room and shut if off there. I agree full manifold is overkill, but I would do that for sure if I could. . To each his own.
I'm going C on this one, I could see a manifold for a big farm system but this is overkill. This is why some plumbers are outrageous in price.
C is a nice feature when replacing valves and the such
Doing manifolds and running every line individually is something the OGs used to do with soft/normal copper, nobody wants to pay for it anymore , my company stopped in the late 90s doing manifolds like this
Need more possible leaks, well you’re going to wanna get you a Manifold
Pex never leaks if you do it right.
@@realmechanicalengineer5792 “Never” a term used to describe a time no human has ever lived through and therefore wouldn’t know. Fact is many elements come into play and adding more unnecessary terminations is one. Also a manifold isn’t Pex haus just connects to it. Seen them leak after years of trouble free service. Wear parts(all valves) DO fail don’t lie to the lion to take advantage of the sheep.
@@realmechanicalengineer5792 The one thing that is true of all systems is that everything has an expiration date and that includes Pex.
Good connections assumed, and all equal. This would not pose a greater threat for leaks.. actually, statistically, it's the opposite. Less branch connections are being made as each area is a home run to the manifold on a pressure regulator.
@@ShaneHolly Math wasn’t your thing in school I take it. “Statistically” more connections in any trade is more fail points. No matter what, in a manifold you have at least 2 extra connection points. Also a manifold is not rated the same as pex or some pex fittings for sub freezing temps. Extra cost is also ridiculous. If you add the amount of branch connections up and the amount of manifold connections it would be obvious, well, to some… There are also many extra seals and valves. Good luck out there!
Don't add extra stuff in your house on the hypothetical chance you might remodel in the future it probably won't even be you. Someone wants to remodel 20 years in the future just add a shut off in the basement it'll take all of 20 minutes...
One school of thought is that if you install a valve when the original plumbing is done it will last until you want it to shut off the water for a repair/remodel down the road, and then you'll get to shut down more of the house and replace the valve while you're doing the project that the valve would have been useful for.
I've got a bathroom remodel tip:
If you haven't rocked yet, and know where towel rods, hooks and tp holder is going to go, put some wood in there. You'll have something to screw to.
Oh nice, I'll do just that since I have a tiny guest that I removed all the sheetrock to already
Good thought but if not the metal drywall anchors that thread in are very strong. I remodeled my parents bathroom 7 years ago and the towel rods are all still rock solid. The old ones were falling out of the wall
@@GageDrums no anchor will ever be as strong as connecting to deadwood/ blocking in the wall.
Also block in for a glass shower door if your installing one.
I second this. I recently cut open the walls in both of my bathrooms and put up 2x6 blocking where our towel rods go. I wish the builders would have done something so damn simple like that.
Don’t ever put you water line in the baseboard. Talk about screwing the next trade.
What ? Why would that screw them? They have to drill a hole ? He’s talking about mopboard not heating baseboard
@@terdferguson1736 have you never changed baseboard after the toilets in? More often then not you have to pull the toilet or had to put baseboard in after the toilets in already.
@@terdferguson1736 Ever try installing a piece of baseboard with a 3/4" hole over a piece of 1/2" copper with a right angle shutoff soldered to it?
I just did a baseboard install, really isn't that bad. I just put a scarf joint behind the toilet where nobody will ever see it (Plus if you do the joint right, no one sees it anyway).
The escutcheon plate was right over the top of the baseboard, so I took out a hole saw of the same diameter and pre-cut the hole prior to nailing.
As much as I wish the plumbers had been considerate back in the 90s, it really was not that big of a deal and ultimately did not look bad.
I like the copper stub out. I have seen so many houses with the shut off all floppy coming thru the sheetrock at all angles.
Where do you live? I've never seen that once. I've done like a 100-200 kitchens and bathrooms.
@@lucastudor5536 Central Valley Calif. Hit and run and crooked inspectors
Yeah, but the builder or contractor saved a couple of bucks.
@@obsoleteprofessor2034 yeah I work on the East Coast in Fairfax county Virginia which is notoriously one of the hardest on builders inspection wise. At least residential. It's one of the richest counties in America, which means there's hundreds of inspectors with nothing but time
@@lucastudor5536 I've even seen gas flex come thru the wall
Toilet supply, 8” to the left, 8” up, works for me every time.
@Jase Bamber bro you complain about amateur hour and act like you're still running Type-B PEX lolol you have no loss with Upunor
Edit: Also I would like to know where you're bending type b pipe to 90 degrees in a 2x4 wall with out kinking it
@jasebamber7899 psi doesn’t lessen, water volume does, buy hey, it’s a toilet, volume doesn’t matter as much as a sink, shower, bathtub, etc.
@jasebamber7899 plumber here, that’s not true…..sort of…. Let me explain, as soon as everything in the house is shut off, but still under pressure, everything is going to be the exact same pressure on the same floor. You will lose 4.3 psi for every 10’ in elevation. So if you have 50psi at the meter in the basement, you will have approximately 45.7 psi on the first floor and 41.7 psi on the second floor if you have 10’ ceilings. Second part of your question regarding elbows and t’s, you will lose some ‘volume’ with long runs of pipe and numerous fittings because of frictional losses. It will depend on what demand the farthest fixture puts on the system. For example, A tub spout fully open will draw a lot more water than a fill valve on a toilet. Hope this helps! The technical terms here and static pressure and dynamic pressure.
@Jay no problem, I kinda like to nerd out on some of this stuff, have a good night!
8 over and 8 up is what se do. However I'm about to adjust that to 8.5 or 9. Last couple houses my builder went with 6" base material. Had to shave like a 1/4" off the bottom of the escutcheon.
On the stub out above the base boards, remember that an escutcheon plate will also be installed to make the hole through the drywall look nicer; so the height above the base boards needs to also account for the size of that escutcheon plate.
Is that what those things are called? I call them pipe collars lol
@@NonieTools i called them flying saucers now imagine the X files music in the background.
Correct but an escutcheon plate is not originally for making it look nice .
And is code in most places in America.
Remember to spend all your money on the rough plumbing so you can’t afford to buy the toilet.
Exactly, manifold systems are stupid. Everything else is fair advice
To be fair. If your a plumber you can do a manifold in pex for cheap.
@@caseyschmidt6532 you want cheap plumbing and, on top of that, cheap PEX plumbing?!
@@caseyschmidt6532 it’s more so the labor that’s expensive.
@@Dudjrkfjjffjkffu absolutely. The pex is cheap especially if you use the crimp ring fittings. I’m buying a new house and I’m going to make a manifold. I’m a plumber so it’ll be quick and easy but I think I’ll use copper so it’ll be a few dollars
Flooring installer here thank you for addressing the baseboard issue in many cases the middle might work but for most flooring installers we just prefer that you put it higher than 4 in off of the ground and remember there's anywhere from 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch added by flooring two and a half an inch to 3/4 of an inch depending on the type of flooring if you know it's going to be hardwood just put it four to five inches above the ground because 3/4 of that is going to be taken up by hardwood floor
Building a manifold in for remodeling in the future… how many times you gonna remodel that house where you’re gonna be shutting off entire zones at a time?
I’m curious how your manifold works if your hot and cold are all hooked together? Are you using an instant hot water in each room?
@@calebreed73 it’s all tied together for testing waters.
A- Use a pex drop ear 90. Saves on parts
B- Yep
C- Might be overkill but looks sweet.
The manifold is very rare and can be very expensive. The main shut off that every house has usually by the front door or somewhere in front of the house is enough for an emergency shut off.
Good knowledge. But illegal plumbing at the manifold. You should have longer pieces of pipe in between fittings per manufacture specs. Also, depending on location your water can eat the copper pipe, so go pex all the way.
As a plumber working in Norway I’m shocked how bad your plumbing standards are in USA
What is the main differences? Or is it just everything ( in USA) is sketchy?
@@wolfslayer44 probably not much difference at all. But of course everything is “better” in europe
I love how you don't elaborate at all I've never had a problem with plumbing in over 50 + years
Manifolds are great but you forgo the benifits of a hot water recirculation loop. I haven't seen a system that uses both yet
I don't know that you could utilize both, unless you had a pump on each hot water line. Mainly because when it's manifolded like each line has its own shut off where as when it's looped you can just attach to the furthest away and run 1 pump
@@johnscott5187 if each line has 2 home runs to the manifold it could work, I've just never seen someone do it
@@johnknightiii1351 2 home runs? Like a manifold for a recirculation pump? I ran a radiant heat system were the pump pushed the water away from the heat source instead of using it to push it back to the heat source, but it was a zero pressure system so I don't know if it would work as well pressurized. Either way something fun to think about,,
Edit: after a little thought I think that if you ran a return line from each hot water point of use back to a return manifold then the shortest runs would benefit but I would think the longer ones would suffer just because of path of least resistance. Also you would need quite a bit bigger pump than normal because you are going to be pumping quite a bit more water. Some of those taco pumps only pump like 3 gallons a minute and in a regular 2 bath house you'd be adding hundreds of feet of line. I am by no means a hydronic expert and would love to see one of these doing its thing
@@johnscott5187 yeah two home runs, seems like it would be great for high end properties as the extra cost of the pex is negligible compared to the benifits at that point. I would have even paid extra for it on my current house
@@johnknightiii1351 if all of your piping is accessible in the attic it's not to late to manifold it yourself and set up a pump! I couldn't deal with not having a recirculation line, my house is nothing fancy but it takes forever to get hot without the pump
What plastic stuff you use, what you stay away from, I think copper all the way through the house is better.
Here's something you should consider, do exactly what he says when you have way too money and or build shit on someone else's dime.
Also run the system in a loop rather than branch so you can have “instant” hot water and also save water.
Loop? Fill me in pls
please elaborate. Is this a 'hot water circulating loop' that uses a 'recirculating pump'?
Can we get a video on this lol
@@snork_games I’m guessing that’s what this person thinks they are saying. But doesn’t know.
A hot water re-circulation loop or commonly known as a secondary hot water loop in Europe is pretty common in larger homes/commercial settings. However it does mean you can't have a centralised manifold.
How can you ensure without a doubt that plumbing will NEVER leak behind a wall? Would be nice if home contractors would tell you where you can and can't hang thing for risk of drilling into plumbing or electrical wiring..
You can buy metal plates to cover the plumbing and electrical, most are too cheap to use them.
I really like the centralized manifold. That'll be great for showers that have no access to the valve.
Master plumber here: this all pretty much BS stuff
I would not say switching over to copper for the stub outs is b.s. 😂
Manifold is a pex thing,way to expensive to sweat in copper. base board info is ok along with wainscot tile so you make sure your supply is right height and your toilet flange is located properly. No 10” rough toilets
Put an electrical outlet behind the toilet bowel in case the owner wants to add a heated seat and/or a bidet seat.
I usually never localize shutoff and don't see why I should start
Like the idea of the manifold to shut stuff off but leads to lots of pressure and flow loss in the uk if we’re doing a bathroom we just shut the water off for half an hour cut the pipe work and use speedfit or hep blanks or whatever blanks people like to use basically your version of shark bite but plastic
I don't like the manifold system because it's not compatible with a hot water circulation pump. The hard pipe idea is good. Maybe not necessary under a sink. But the toilet is a good place in my opinion.
Only if the hot and cold weren't cross connected at the manifold lmfaooo
I had to zoom in...wtf is going on there?
few years back we got a cheap house and the pipes needed to be replaced. We chose to go with Pex to save money and put in a manifold. Fast forward to about a month ago and I decide to change out my bathroom faucet. The geniuses who owned the home before installed the cabinet in such a way that one of the localized shutoffs was pretty much inaccessible. I was so happy to have shut offs for the bathroom in the manifold and not have to shut the whole house down.
Future proof and forward thinking design is a must.
Never use the manifold. It sounds like a good thing but it’s not. It makes your hot water take so much longer to get to everything. I put it in and took it out after about a 6 months.
I love this video and I'm sad to say the plumbers in Eastern Canada not sure if it's everywhere well not use any copper anymore we have redone our whole house and everything is packed and the water has not tasted the same since it has a muskie flavor smells like rotten eggs at times but only I can smell it think I'm a dog lol but we have a well point as well
Tip 2 is a seriously overlooked issue … contractors need to make sure this information is provided 😊
Why are there blue and red pex on the same manifold? I know they're the same thing but why
Did the Plumber stub out hard copper on purpose instead of the pex copper bullets? My plumbers have been having problems with leaky angle stops on the pex copper stubouts. The Tight Zone is small on those stub outs.
Almost nobody will pay the extra money for a manifold system.
Here's a cool idea, why not run a business making ready-made manifolds plumbers can just toss in and save a bunch of their customer's money?
if yall gone run those pex lines , yall better stub out with pex to show the quality of the work
Why is the red and blue mixed? I know there is are Recirculating lines but there are usually by the sink?
Number 4. Stop running 1/2" PEX throughout the entire house lol my piss stream has more pressure
😂😂😂😂
Number 4: Don’t wall over brick.
Why not use copper turnouts that have pex fittings on the end instead of having all those extra potential fail points?
When they run pex like hard pipe..smh with all those potential leak points....
I'm a UK plumber but I insist in installing a entire manifold for new bathrooms but for each appliance hot and cold in bathrooms that have gone for the pipeless design
Might look clean, but manifold systems are garbage. No circ system, so you will be waiting for hot water at distant fixtures. Adding unnecessary joints just to make bends and stubing out copper restricts water flow and adds potential for leaks later on.
I have some bathroom Remodel tips
Don't waste your money on all those shut offs they're expensive lately
Something tells me the pex to copper is good for resale too lol. Home inspector "well the whole house has copper plumbing" lmao
The manifold idea sounds good, but I’ve never seen one. I had a 5 1/2 bath home, if you wanted to shut-off the water, you went to the main shut-off for the entire home. Each bathroom had shut-off valves under the sink and toilet, there were none for shower or tub.
that last cant be used on every job depending how big the house is you dont want excess long run of water depriving the bathrooms etc of water pressure...
The only thing I like about Pex is a manifold.
Did anybody see shutoff valves on the individual branches of the manifold?
Really should’ve done this in Pex-A instead of Pex-B
This guys a hack
@@tacklebox6239 why is that ?
Pex B is better for recirculating lines. It holds up much better,but otherwise pex A for everything else.
Lol 20 bucks these people would use Polybutylene line if they could get away with it and I’m called the hack.
@@geremypelleran8487 20 bucks? That’s what you’re plumber probably makes an hour. Your just a pencil pusher who’s being enlightened while being sold on some upgrades 😂
I’ve done enough construction that as he speaks all I hear is cha-Ching, cha-ching.
w8 is that stuff solderd what old tec are they using there
Not sure why all plumbers put the water stub out for the toilet so close to the baseboard still, unless your using a hard supply line, put it close to the tank and just loop a flexie in.
Lol what 😂
I like this guys pants, they fit him well
With enough room above the baseboard for an escutcheon.
I just got super lucky yesterday installing baseboards in a bathroom remodel I did. I will not forget to check the height of the toilet water supply line ever again. Getting lucky is not good in my book lol.
Localized shutoff is a good idea but the execution shown is just stupid. We usually do it just outside the between where it branches off the main line and the bathroom usually in an access panel located in a hallway closet.
1. Uses significantly less material, only added material is just the extra valves, therefore less cost.
2. If something happens and the water needs to be shut off to the entire room immediately the valves are close and a person doesn't have to go all the way to the basement or wherever the primary valves are located.
Absolutely don't put it in the middle of the baseboard. Put it above the baseboard.
That's pretty well done. I like the option of having two shutoffs.
Only listen to this man if money is no object
If you want rigid stub-outs, you can run PEX wing-l's with stainless or galvanized steel nipples coming out of them. If you're really married to copper they make copper stub outs that don't require that brass 90 to be soldered.
Also, manifolds are great and all. They provide a lot of utility and isolation, but the problem with manifolds is that you have to return every pipe to one area so you end up with significantly more pipe than normal. That's not the end of the world, but it is worth considering. A few key isolation valves in a basement could accomplish a similar thing to a manifold with much less pipe in some situations.
Why would you run all pex just to let it rust up in a galvanized nipple at the end. Also they're called drop ear El's and also the manifolds are good in some situations but all the extra pipe needed is going to make most people reconsider right away as it can take 2 to 4 times more pipe and there's better option in most cases if your plumber knows what he's doing. It's especially a bad idea to take ideas from a stranger in the internet building a new house with plenty of money and use those tips like you can save money in your 100 year old fix er upper
@@magenlin Why use metal when they make plastic ones that don't react at all?
If you like waiting for hot water do #3..
Never seen a manifold like that but that is a great idea
Shockingly bad idea
I always set my toilet water line high this way the baseboards aren't a problem
We are three of the best plumbers that ever Plumbed a Plumb
Wow! That just makes sense.
I have no interest in seeing the spaghetti in that attic..
Solid tips.
Not seeing any valves on that manifold…is it just me?
That soldering looks like my 7-year-old daughter did it. Other than that you pass with my approval ✅
Most pex intensive plumbers lose their edge on solder, but if your only talking about the run off….it’s inside the wall it really doesn’t matter.
Never put baseboard behind a closet.
If you thought the first tip was helpful, don’t build a house, if you can’t figure out why, don’t build a house
I’m not listing to some guy about plumbing, if you look like the IT guy at my job.
Sounds like a handsome IT guy
Recently worked on a house with dedicated lines for each fixture/room and a huge manifold block. It has dozens of leaks points with all the valves and 40 or so lines coming in.
Guess what. It's leaking at three of the valves. To fix it the entire manifold must be disassembled potentially creating other leaks. My guess is every seal in it will have to be replaced. If you do this system, don't use those premade manifold blocks. Buy the ones that are metal and make sure every component can be replaced without affecting others.
When your able to plan.. and have money.
I like though.
The manifold confuses me. It almost look like the hot and cold lines are being fed from the same line? Impossible I must need an eye doctor
Geeez… Norwegian plumber here. Just want you to know that this is ancient tech, and is considered an insurance risk over here.
What do you mean by that my friends
explain yourself!
Manifold is to small
Excellent ideas. I only wish the person that plumbed my house had done that.
Generally put the toilet between 8-9” from the concrete. If you have a huge 10” baseboard in when you’re going to want to lower it, because if you raise it you raise it you risk getting in the way of some toilets. It should be between 6-8” from the center of the toilet phalange also as a rule of thumb. Make sure the measurements will work with the toilet you’re buying
Yes I want them! Then plumber quotes me an additional $2000 for this improvement...
Nice tip 👍👏
Nice tool rig. Occidental?
Not op but yes that's an occidental belt
Ehh don’t like the plastic Viega fittings
As a trim guy I appreciate this
A lot of haters in here. That manifold system would be incredibly helpful to me. I remodel at least once a month!
I agree with everything except the manifold; from what I understand they tend to leak over time, and it’s additional connections that’s are unnecessary.
They aren't great for getting quick hot water either. It is nice to be able to turn on a faucet downstream of a faucet that was just ran for hot water and already have hot water to that point. A manifold adds more length to the run. I like the concept of ability to isolate a room for future maintenance, but for the customers daily use and efficiency and water conservation, manifolds aren't so great.
Who tells you guys this stuff lol. Your bad plumber? Look at this guys work it’s pretty damn good . Most likely your plumbers doesn’t come close. This is top 10% work. Sure A manifold with a shitty problem is more joints where his bad work could be exposed on but not for a quality guy. And the person saying it take longer to get hot water off a manifold is insane. It’s all traveling the same distance off a manifold or branched of a line. It’s still all coming from the hot water heater.
@@terdferguson1736 Say for instance a kitchen faucet is 20 ft. from the water heater and 15 ft beyond that is the laundry and and a bathroom. Total of 35 ft. right? Now say without a manifold set-up if you ran hot water at the kitchen faucet it would already be 20 ft. closer than it would be otherwise. With a manifold for example, you wash dishes at the kitchen sink then go shower. That water line from the w.h. to the kitchen faucet or dishwasher is purged of cold water and full of hot. Turning on the shower faucet, now you have to purge the volume of an additional 35 ft. to get hot water for a shower, all while dumping the purge water down the drain and putting an additional 35 ft. worth of water volume into the w.h. that has to be heated. Now for instance if you weren't using hot water in the kitchen immediately prior to showering it wouldn't make a difference if it was a manifold set-up or not. At least with a traditional water line installation, some of the time water and energy would be saved. With a manifold you always have to purge whatever distance worth of water from it to the point of use.
@@huckbeduck plus how often are you shutting off water?
I have a manifold which I haven’t had the need to use in over 20 years. It’s overkill.
Stub out in copper on nice houses. Stub out in pex on cheap houses. Stub out waterline at 8” above finish floor for toilet unless your in a nice house that may have 8” baseboard, in which case verify with the builder. And never install a manifold system in any house because they are totally dumb and a huge waste of money
That’s really smart but holy shitballs Batman that’s a lot of work
I am curious for the plumbers or contractors, actual contractors not that you own a tape measure.. how much you charging per fixture.
That’s dumb to stub copper out whenever they make metal stubout brackets for Pex called sidewinders, copper will corrode over time when Pex will not
Pro tip, don't ever make a 1/2 manifold then stub 20 lines off it. Up size your manifold then stub in half so they don't have pressure loss when using more then 2 fixtures. Smh
You aren’t serious are you?
Are you being sarcastic?
I didn’t catch on at first, then I saw what you call a manifold, ha! Manifolds have 1 inch lines going in and 1/2 coming out. Never seen any cob job like that where I work.
Ridiculous to install manifold. Makes much more sense to simply use shutoff valves in water serviced rooms and (if needed to renovate) push fit (generic Shark bite) end caps as a temporary measure. Manifold is a very expensive add-on for something you never use/need. KISS.
Oh that manifold... beautiful...
The shut off manifold is a complete waste of money and not a small amount of money either.
Whoever that jackass is, he knows didley squat about plumbing, but he does know how to rip of the owners.