how to remove rust from cast iron

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 746

  • @wittworks
    @wittworks  หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    I can help you maximize your track saw or trim router set-up 👉 wittworks.shop

  • @ADHDbuilt
    @ADHDbuilt ปีที่แล้ว +20

    Chef here. We clean the hot plates , and to get the surface looking like new, use some lemon juice. The acid will brighten up the surface almost instantly, then clean off and oil.

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      oh wow.

    • @mchristofas
      @mchristofas 16 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      @@wittworks vinegar works too.

  • @jlippencott1
    @jlippencott1 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    The “staining” is actually microscopic rust pitting. The very last thing you want to do is sanding to attempt to remove it. Sanding will remove material from the flatness of the surface and make things worse. That last bit of staining will cause no harm except for the cosmetic appearance.

    • @ChrisHornberger
      @ChrisHornberger ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Bingo! Don't turn it into a potato chip for the sake of some ideal of aesthetics.

  • @coreystine1001
    @coreystine1001 ปีที่แล้ว +39

    if you ever have to do anything like this again may i suggest covering the cast in paper towels and soaking them in your solution of choice. wd40 pb blaster evaporust or that stuff from carbon coat. let the towels sit for a half hr or so. most of my tools are second hand and ive used this method to restore quite a few cast tops really helps.

    • @vikassm
      @vikassm ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Cost-Effective, Long lasting restoration for rusty Cars/Old machinery:
      1. Use Mild Acetic or Citric acid solution to dissolve the rust first. It is extremely effective. Wire-brush.
      2. Then go in with a hydrocarbon based solvent (WD40), Or just plain old 50-50 Kerosene+Diesel. (Wire-Brush and Sanding)
      2.5. Use Galvanising Zinc spray for everything other than machined surfaces.
      3. Spray finish everything with Polyurethane or acrylic clear-coat. (Wax/Polish/Buff optional)
      BAM. Rust proofed for 25 years.

    • @miki09876
      @miki09876 ปีที่แล้ว

      Agreed or naval jelly or evapo-rust.

    • @stgsux
      @stgsux 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      yeah soak in paper towels and maybe plastic wrap on top to prevent the paper towels drying out for a longer soak. evaporust is pretty amazing

  • @dangkolache
    @dangkolache ปีที่แล้ว +68

    I would genuinely be shattered if I walked into my shop to see this. When I saw your community post I thought there's no way it could be as bad as he's making it out to be, but damn man, I feel for you. I'm sure you'll get this a billion times but would insurance have covered replacement parts?

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว +13

      Still waiting to hear back. 🤞

    • @hrodwulf172
      @hrodwulf172 ปีที่แล้ว +11

      Tbh if the motor housing is holding water I think you would just call the whole thing FUBAR, it's probably not worth the work/risk of failure assuming he has the right insurance and most of a replacement is covered.

    • @vhoward1122
      @vhoward1122 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Only if he had a rider on his homeowners insurance that also covered the contents of the home for water damage.

    • @dopplex
      @dopplex ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@vhoward1122 Note that it can also depend on the source of the water damage, and all of this is highly dependent on the fine print of the policy. Ie, my homeowners covers a burst pipe, but doesn't cover a failed sump pump (And boy do I wish I'd known that before my sump pump failed...)

    • @Greg_Gatsby
      @Greg_Gatsby 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      My experience suggests that claims such as this, when the insurance company pays you, it’s really just a loan payed back under the guise of rate increases. Sometimes it’s better to eat the loss rather than forcing the insurance claim.

  • @charitiekbyrd1
    @charitiekbyrd1 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Oh my wow!!! Yes my heart sank a bit for you. My wife's grandfather passed away about 5 months ago and he has a saw stop. I mention this because we have talked to her grandma and when she is ready to let go of it I will be the one to get it. If I have something like that happen to it I would probably cry because it would mean so much to me for the simple fact that it belonged to my wife's grandpa. I'm glad you were able to salvage it almost back to the previous condition and I really like and appreciate your videos. They help people like me that are new to woodworking and I can't wait to learn more from people like you. Thank you and Happy Building 😁

  • @dustinhilton5401
    @dustinhilton5401 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Look up stumpy nubbs video on what to do about rust like this. Essentially sand /buff it clean with naptha and finish with protective layer of paste wax. It works because i was given a jet tablesaw that had a rusted top i followed the steps and it looks brand new! Love your content keep it up and hope this helps get your prized saw out of medical leave and back to use!

  • @nwa2102
    @nwa2102 ปีที่แล้ว +19

    It looks good. I don't know if it matters if it's a couple thou out, but are you worried about how flat it is? If there is a machine shop with a surface grinder in your area you can probably get them to grind the surface flat again. It might also clear off more of the staining

  • @LRN2DIY
    @LRN2DIY ปีที่แล้ว +2

    As it turns out, I bought almost the same SawStop used recently (5 hp 220v) but didn’t have room in my shop for it since I’m currently converting my garage into a shop. I carefully wrapped up the SawStop with tarps, tied it down and, sadly, had to leave it outside on a pallet.
    The winds went wild and somehow blew the tarp off in a rainstorm and it rusted pretty quickly. I still don’t have room to work on it so I’ll have to do so when the shop is finished. Looks like I’ll be going through a similar process on mine before too long. I hope it comes out half as nice as yours!

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว

      Oh wow! Looking forward to seeing what you can do. I did find the sawstop sells the tops so you can replace them….for $800!!!
      Also, your hammer reinvented thumbnail is one of my fav on TH-cam. Brilliant.

    • @LRN2DIY
      @LRN2DIY ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@wittworks Nice! I’ll see how well I’m able to clean it up but it may come to that. Thanks for the video!

    • @williamreinhard
      @williamreinhard 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@wittworks Glad to know I can by a new top if I need to. Mine is even more rusted than yours, I really don't know if I can save it but I'll definitely try.

  • @RyanWattersRyanWatters
    @RyanWattersRyanWatters ปีที่แล้ว +7

    So sorry you had to go through this tedium, brother. But from the moment I saw the thumbnail, I knew it was going to turn out okay. It’s amazing what a lot of elbow grease can do to restore cast iron suffering from topical rust. I echo what others have said in that I’m glad you still have a badass table saw and hope your insurance is good to you. Positive vibes from Texas.

  • @charlesm7132
    @charlesm7132 ปีที่แล้ว

    5 days ago I discovered I had a water leak that was dripping onto my jointer that I had just purchased. It was not a new jointer but I had been saving and searching for a jointer for a few years now. I was devastated when I found the cast iron bright orange with rust. After watching this video I do have some hope now. Thanks for the quick tutorial and links.

  • @richardfarwell6759
    @richardfarwell6759 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Our local MakerSpace was the recipient of a water damaged Saw Stop. The original owner gave it to us after his insurance "bought him a new one". He didn't want to trust the electronics. I called Saw Stop and they said that if the saw turns on and runs, then the electronics are fine. We've used the saw for several years now, and saved any number of fingers, and the saw works great.

  • @ronnielloyd4514
    @ronnielloyd4514 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I was given a table saw that had been sitting in a old storage building and had been rained on for 2-3 years. I did what you did and got a lot of rust off and the saw works as good as a new one.

  • @jason.b896
    @jason.b896 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    You might consider trying a scrub with Bar Keepers Friend to remove the "staining". It's a powdered cleanser with Oxalic Acid, used a lot in the carbon steel knife world to remove patinas, and it does a really great job in my experience.

    • @msk3905
      @msk3905 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yup bar keepers friend does wonders, use it on my pots and they gleam better than new

  • @boreduser1583
    @boreduser1583 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Plain white vinegar removes rust fairly well. Can be used in the first steps to remove the bulk of rust then dry and oil after

  • @thehickorylanewoodshed2378
    @thehickorylanewoodshed2378 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I did a restore of a table saw that I bought used. Sanding with WD 40 worked up to a degree but, once I switched over to a better lubricant I noticed a big difference. Started with 80grit and worked up to 220grit and then gave it a lubricant and wiped it in two or three times before I felt I did all I could. Was pleased with the outcome.

    • @OFFICIALUND
      @OFFICIALUND 28 วันที่ผ่านมา

      What was the other lubricant that you used?

  • @dmitribohanon3106
    @dmitribohanon3106 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Dude the thumbnail alone made me cry, hope everything works itself out brother been watching you for a while now and your humility and honesty has always been refreshing

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว

      I may have cried. thank you 🙂

  • @monteglover4133
    @monteglover4133 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    My table saw is 50+ years old the top is gray one of the wing has some pitting filled with epoxy. It had been stored outside had severe rust on the top sanded initially with 220 on a ROS then finer grits, not shiny but slick and smooth works great !

  • @donwight5806
    @donwight5806 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I am so sorry. I understand your heart wrenching fear. I went through two basement floods with my 1967 craftsman table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw and drill press. They all survived. But the anxiety the fear then frustration and anger was unparalleled. I know it will be alright. Every test makes us stronger. I am sorry and know that we have your back.

  • @barnie1956
    @barnie1956 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow, I understand your pain. A few years ago, I laid pressure treated wood on the saw only for a few hours. Well, two days later, I put the wood where I should have put it if I wasn't in a hurry. I may try your fix. A lesson learned.

  • @michaelfairchild
    @michaelfairchild ปีที่แล้ว +13

    To most of us (specially DIYers) who payed for those tools in whole or in installments those tools might be like our children. Seeing your tools get damaged in anyway hurts a little.

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      yeah it hurts. SawStop did NOT give me that saw.

    • @ronh9384
      @ronh9384 ปีที่แล้ว

      I feel your pain man. When I first saw the damage it felt almost as bad as getting kicked in the groin….

  • @tomasjosefvela1
    @tomasjosefvela1 ปีที่แล้ว

    Lucky it took me over 9 min to figure out how to get to the comments on my phone (I usually watch TH-cam on my desktop or laptop) so as much as I can’t wait to see the next video I will add you to
    My list of people that I will attempt to send some good vibes as a thank you for sharing your creativity and wit.
    And HOLY WOW THATS AMAZING!!!!

  • @lv_woodturner3899
    @lv_woodturner3899 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Wow, I do feel your agony. I would also have felt devastated.
    A month or so ago I laid a kiln dried 2x4 over my table saw. I should have laid this over the melamine extension, but thought kiln dried would not be a problem. A week or so later I was shocked at the rust under the 2x4. This was just high humidity not the standing water from your devastating water leak. A lesson learned. My rust and stains were not so deep.
    Sadly you may need a re-grinding to remove all the stains.
    Dave.

  • @jetvector8410
    @jetvector8410 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Sorry to see this happen to you. I had this happen to my first table saw. Once I got it cleaned I ended up finishing it with Cerakote. 5 years of sweat and glue later and not single spec of rust. So now I Cerakote all my tools before I ever setup them up. Worth every penny.

    • @bobd5119
      @bobd5119 ปีที่แล้ว

      Which Cerakote version do you use?

    • @jetvector8410
      @jetvector8410 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@bobd5119 The air dry series. I think it was the C-series line. It is not as durable as the bake on finishes, but even where it scratches off it still did not rust. Whatever additive for corrosion protection they put in it is top notch. It is also very slick. I only waxed my saw maybe once a year.

  • @scorpiorysing
    @scorpiorysing ปีที่แล้ว +9

    I'd sand it more aggressively until the stains come out. You can always sand it back w/finer grit to get back to a smoother finish/look.

    • @bloho_design
      @bloho_design ปีที่แล้ว

      Why bother?

    • @larswilms8275
      @larswilms8275 ปีที่แล้ว

      ​@@bloho_design because it bothers the OP.

  • @SM-vs4ro
    @SM-vs4ro ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I would have started with Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver. Cover the surface with heavy rags and poured this stuff on then covered with plastic. The next day used those pads. Pits don't matter on the surface. You can always fill them in with red paint to match the saw.

    • @bertaboy
      @bertaboy ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I would have started with the insurance claim. With all of the other damage in the house, he's already covered the deductible.

  • @yankee5886
    @yankee5886 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I use t-9 on all my machines which are in a damp humid basement. And have not had one rust issue so far. Table saw jointer drill press etc.

    • @OFFICIALUND
      @OFFICIALUND 28 วันที่ผ่านมา

      T9 has not worked well at all for me (middle Tennessee).

  • @williamreinhard
    @williamreinhard 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I purchased a property with some farm equipment included in the sale. Part of the equipment is a Sawstop he had barely used. My heart broke when I found that it spent the winter in an unsheltered old garage completely rusted on top. Hope I have as much luck saving it as you did. I would honestly be thrilled if it gets even close to looking this good again.

  • @jcuprisi
    @jcuprisi ปีที่แล้ว +5

    It’s cast iron, it’s flat. Use a flat board with 100 grit automotive grade wet or dry sandpaper. Work your way in steps to 600 or 800 or even greater. WD-40 is a good lubricant. No need for anything fancy. If you are looking for accuracy, disassemble and have it surfaced by a machinist. This is standard practice on cast iron cylinder heads and blocks. Keep the surface oiled or use furniture polish. Much cheaper.

  • @Dusty-Builds
    @Dusty-Builds ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I had the problem. I bought a Delta saw that had been sitting outside for about a month and the surface looked just like yours. I got a Strip and Clean disk from HF and went to work with my angle grinder and WD40. After about an hours work I had a new shine on the top and put a coat of paste wax on it. Still looks brand new to this day.

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว

      That’s great! I’ll look into the disk!

  • @JayWye52
    @JayWye52 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    buy a bottle of Loctite naval jelly,it's a rust remover. then you'll probably need to use some fine carbide wet/dry paper to polish it to near-normal. Ace Hdwr has it for $9 for a 16 ox bottle. it works great on rust.

  • @keno101
    @keno101 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Oh, man. So sorry this happened to you. Glad you were able to restore it as well as you did. It looks great. Nice job! Good luck on the rest of it.

  • @StsFiveOneLima
    @StsFiveOneLima ปีที่แล้ว

    Oh I feel this pain. I left pressure treated five-quarter deck boards laying across my table saw for about a month while I traveled, and, where they were in contact, same result. I've got the saw back to working order, but need to put some more time in to it.

  • @heyallenify
    @heyallenify ปีที่แล้ว

    I will say, I didn't know of that company offered kit, but did something very similar with WD-40 and maroon scotch bright pads on my first table saw.
    I never got it all the way to a bright "new" cast iron color, but it did come back to an even darker grey, and worked fine for years.
    For the worst areas, I used a gasket scraper that uses a spring steel card as a scraping edge. This got some rust off, as well as the paint stains that were left by some prior owner using it as a painting bench.
    I did finish mine with BoeShield T-9 as a protective layer afterward.
    All that said, great work there, and best wishes with your shop recovery.

  • @DennisMathias
    @DennisMathias ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Did you get any insurance compensation? Did you mention that and I missed it?

  • @Benster91
    @Benster91 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Put it this way you did a awesome job trying to restore the finish but as long as equipment performs as it should thats a blessing 🙌 .

  • @TKC_
    @TKC_ ปีที่แล้ว

    I’ve restored old tools and always they come covered in rust. My favorite thing to do before finishing with scotch brite and oil similar to what you did is soak it in evaporust. For big surfaces soak paper towels lay them out flat then cover with Saran Wrap to prevent evaporation and wait. A few rounds of this does wonders.

  • @BustedKnuckleWoodworks
    @BustedKnuckleWoodworks ปีที่แล้ว +57

    Hope your insurance company comes through for you dude 🤞

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว +8

      still ghosting me

    • @BustedKnuckleWoodworks
      @BustedKnuckleWoodworks ปีที่แล้ว +8

      @@wittworks well their HQ is right down the street from you. March in there and demand to speak to the CEO 😆

    • @michaelgartner6663
      @michaelgartner6663 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      Insurance companies are not in the business of paying. It’s all champagne and roses when they’re selling you your policy. I hope you have a happy ending.

    • @kennethkolman7367
      @kennethkolman7367 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I used a wet dry sandpaper with WD-40 paint thinner to clean up used car wax for final cover turned out almost good as new It was 1000 grit

    • @codarussell7925
      @codarussell7925 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      I have that wood extension table in storage if you need one.

  • @meangreen7389
    @meangreen7389 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great vid especially with your style of narration. I was rooting for you the whole time. Your persistence paid off. Thank you for sharing.

  • @petemclinc
    @petemclinc ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I would do a cold blue on it and never worry about the appearance again...

  • @mightygrom
    @mightygrom ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I feel your pain... my 3 week old f150 hybrid was rear-ended by a distracted driver (she was going about 40 mph faster than I when she hit me)... fortunately nobody was hurt, but my truck is still at the shop over a month later, and they still haven't been able to start the repairs... there is a good chance that the frame will need to be replaced... I hope I will get it back before this winter.

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว

      Oh wow. That’s the worst. Glad you’re ok.

  • @maximusmagni1
    @maximusmagni1 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    What happened to the video that descibed how the damage occurred?

  • @BigBenAdv
    @BigBenAdv ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Artificial white vinegar (acetic acid) is the same as rust removal sprays and you could use it to remove most of the rust by soaking and laying paper towels on the surfaces for 10 to 15 minutes before wiping down. It's also much cheaper when sold in larger containers for commercial kitchens (gallon or larger). Also useful for descaling glass containers or cleaning limescale from shower screens.

  • @jamesorr1200
    @jamesorr1200 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I feel your pain. I brought my SawStop home last December. The top didn’t survive two weeks. I had the garage door up after a rain, and it evidently dropped down on the saw. Definitely not as bad as your situation, but my beautiful new table top has a black love mark now. I ordered Carbon Method immediately after. 😊

  • @EPaulIII
    @EPaulIII ปีที่แล้ว

    I have an AC failure in my shop that I am presently dealing with. I am in the deep south, near the Gulf Coast so heat and humidity is a major concern. I am so glad my table saw has an aluminum top. So far the other machines are handling it OK. I am keeping a coat of oil on them.

  • @zafarsyed6437
    @zafarsyed6437 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey Drew-- what's the status on the saw now?
    When is the house move happening?

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      We moved a few weeks ago. I think the saw will be fine. I need to get 220 in my shop to test it. Swimming n boxes currently and hope to have a shop cab build video soon. Then I can tackle the table saw

  • @rickcimino743
    @rickcimino743 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I congratulate you on your patience. If that happened to me I would jump right to like 100 or 80 grit metal working paper and get down to bare metal. Your approach was obviously better.....you demonstrated great patience.

  • @jimbayler4277
    @jimbayler4277 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    @Wittworks: Have you tried ""Bar Keepers Friend" ?! It has been around forever. They have several different formulations, but the one that had best all-around performance for me, was the old-fashioned powder form.
    My little needy project was a 55 year old Bridgeport Milling machine that had not been treated well (high-milage) and had been stored even poorer.
    My project was not as brilliant orange as yours but was deeper in many places. "Bar Keepers Friend" brought my surfaces back pretty respectable. Near shiny matte finish. Certainly, far better than the oils you were using at the beginning of the video. You will need to rinse thoroughly and then coat with turtle wax or similar for long term protection.
    I'll go back now and finish the rest of your video.

  • @Gazman299
    @Gazman299 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I'm in to the video about eight minutes, so please forgive me if you tried this eventually. How about using wet sandpaper for metal? Start with a four hundred grit and increase from there. It works on older model cars, but they're not made out of cast iron which is basically pot metal, so I don't know if I'm on to something, or not.
    I really enjoy your videos. Thank you.

  • @philvale5724
    @philvale5724 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi 👋 WittWorks , I am so sorry to hear 👂 you got problems with water damage, back in the 1979/8 I had just moved my work shop to a farm, I was renting a old cowshed, I had had to put plastic sheeting as a roof. Space, as there were small holes in the roof where drips used to come through onto my tools and equipment., and used to suffer very badly and condensation,
    The very kind farmer, purchased a very old Planer jointer from a auction sale , I believe the machine might have been outside for a long time, and they asked me was it worth getting when I said yes , they said that’s good cause it’s outside. I think they bought it more as scrap value than anything else., what is six weeks down the line, it looks like brand-new,, I was living in the UK at the time, the machine was made by a firm called Dominion, which I think was part of Watkin, which was up north, I contacted them about the table bed , told me if I could bring the tables up to there machine shop they could resurface it for me, so between landlords, son and myself, we stripped down the machine and took the tables to the place up north, where they resurfaced the beds of the tables , this cost me approximately £200 and it took them virtually a day, I’ve never seen a machine like this before they used to resurface the beds. All the tables it was huge, but after a few weeks work of repainting and doing some electrical work the jointer planer thickness, look like new,
    Anyway, after explaining my problem, you might be able to find somebody that can resurface the tops of your tablesaw to bring it back, looking like new, , I have since found out that old cast iron is a lot better made than what the new stuff they use nowadays, there is a curing process for when they make cast-iron table beds, which I believe on very good stuff can take up to 6 months to a year to cure, depending on the size of it, and then the cast iron is there in machine it’s finished size and polished,
    Good luck with the repairs and the renovation of your tools and machinery. I hope you can get some compensation from the insurance company. Hopefully see you back in the workshop soon., Phil from the moulin France,

  • @username14219
    @username14219 ปีที่แล้ว

    I lived on a tropical island and ran a wood shop. Rust was always an issue just because of humidity on a regular basis but we had a typhoon come through once and damaged the cast iron on EVERYTHING. We sanded with 120 grit, then up the stages to 400, and then used paste wax to give a smooth finish so we could run wood smoothly across the surface. Everything went back to being operational and we just ensured the next time a typhoon came through to cover everything in plastic.

  • @the_ri0t21
    @the_ri0t21 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    "NAVY GELLY" WORS!!! IF YOU BRUSH IT ON WITH A THROW AWAY CHEAP BRUSH...LET IT SIT TILL IT BUBBLES AND DARKENS.... RINS IT OFF OR WIPE IT OFF....RECOMEND PRESURED WATER HOSE KNOZEL....THEN LIGHT SAND

    • @the_ri0t21
      @the_ri0t21 ปีที่แล้ว

      PROBABLY A 20-30 MIN TO HOSE OFF TO RESURFACING PROSES GOOD LUCK

  • @Icantball67
    @Icantball67 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Oh man I’m sorry this happened to you and the family. It’s not just the saw that was damaged obviously, but I can see why this might have been the focal point of the damage caused to you. I feel like cleaning the top is a little bit therapeutic for you as well as just an attempt to salvage something. Prayers that you heal from this wound! 🙏

  • @briannelson4122
    @briannelson4122 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have an old Craftsman table saw that I got in pieces and had to refurbish. It was in extremely rough shape. A friend gave it to me during Covid lockdown and it was more therapeutic than necessity to rebuild it. The top was in as bad of shape as yours, and since it didn't cost me anything I used sandpaper and WD-40. I started with 100 and really got most everything done with that. I went up to 800 grit wet & dry with WD and other than the fact that these tops weren't milled that great to begin with (lots of milling marks) it came out great! For about 6 months after I had a wood block with 800 grit on it and would just block it out before waxing it. Iknow you probably wont want to be as aggressive , but it worked out just fine for me

  • @chrisp.76
    @chrisp.76 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    So sorry for you having to go through this! Hope you never have anything like this happen again. May the shop gods be with you!😢

  • @jonwoodworker
    @jonwoodworker ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I can't believe you waisted your time, when your insurance would have paid for it. And you would have had the perfect opportunity to get a Delta, Powermatic or an old Craftsman. Our shop bought two Sawstop's and would throw them in the garbage if we could.

  • @frankdesign8723
    @frankdesign8723 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Similar thing happened to me on my Delta. I started sanding with 220 and worked it up to 4000 before switching to a polishing pad with polishing compound. Then finished with some carpenters wax and it was good as new

  • @jimcooksey812
    @jimcooksey812 ปีที่แล้ว

    this is a great advertisement for using paraffin and a buffer on your table saw regularly.
    Thanks for the video!
    Have a better week!

  • @tomphillips2473
    @tomphillips2473 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Good save.... I didnt see a follow up - did it end up working after you dried it out?

  • @MrSmersh1
    @MrSmersh1 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Vinegar cleans rust very well

  • @howler5000
    @howler5000 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Ah man. That hurts! Great job on all your hard work restoring your saw and I wish you the best fighting the insurance company.

  • @draj3214
    @draj3214 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    that pitting was gnarly. great job restoring it.

  • @dwwoodbuilds
    @dwwoodbuilds ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Been following on IG.. terrible situation and all from a little stupid crack! Lesson here, don't let your pipes do crack! 😁 Anyway, the patterning on the metal was pretty crazy! I wonder how Boeshield T-9 would have worked on removing the rust.. (just curious! not asking you to test it. We'll have Suman test it! 😉). Hope the house repairs to guickly and smoothly, the insurance company pays quickly and all your tools are quickly fixed and/or replaced without much more pain and suffering. Thanks for sharing this with us!

  • @kennethwallace5168
    @kennethwallace5168 ปีที่แล้ว

    I cover everything with the tool covers. I have a cold garage and large temperature swings...no rush problems. In your case, the water would have run off.

  • @audhen1
    @audhen1 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    for those high spots 5:31 you might try iron spot/rust cleaner/rim cleaner from car washing shops

  • @moikechan
    @moikechan ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Cast iron surface appearance and precision flatness can be restored to better than new with a little elbow grease. Look up "lapping granite surface plate". You can use the wings on one another and then on the main table. It's hard to mess up and will be better than factory when you're done.

  • @David-hm9ic
    @David-hm9ic ปีที่แล้ว +1

    That is heartbreaking. You have my sympathy.
    Most of the machines in my shop are old cast iron, often purchased in poor cosmetic condition. I bought a jointer that had been stored outdoors. It looked like your saw. Boeshield RustFree has been very good at removing the old rust staining from bare cast iron surfaces. It's fairly noxious to use but it works. Good ventilation is a must but you don't want a breeze blowing across the surface that you're cleaning. Your mechanical process combined with RustFree would very likely give you bright cast iron again. I'm located on the humid Gulf Coast so I treat all of my cast iron machines with Boeshield T-9 once they're clean. I spray it on, let it soak for 24 hours, wipe off the excess and let it completely dry. Allow another day for the T-9 to dry. After all of that the surfaces still get paste wax but rust doesn't develop once the machines are treated. I have a schedule of cleaning the cast iron with mineral spirits every two years and retreating from scratch so I'll never have to do heavy cleaning again.

  • @wk7060
    @wk7060 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    You can rinse the Scotchbrite pad out with water, blow it out with compressed air and will clear out the rust so you can start over. T9 Rust remover and T9 Boeshield is best. I get sick when I see 1 speck of rust on my table saw. I know how you feel.

  • @cjsawinski
    @cjsawinski ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If the rust is that bad skip the 3m pads and start with real sand paper… wet sand it starting at about 600-800 grit, then hit it with 100-1200 grit, then switch to the 3m pads for final “buffing”… another note, he was cleaning the 3m pads using a piece of plywood… just clean them with water in a utility sink.

  • @GyWO10
    @GyWO10 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wow! That’s crazy & very sad to see what happened to your saw & shop! Glad you had the carbon method to fix the saw. Hope you’re back up in business soon in your shop! 🙏🏽👊🏽

  • @anthonypalazzolo6181
    @anthonypalazzolo6181 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Well the best way for this . Me been a spray painter and worked on metal what you should do is sand with a sander p 100 p 180 p240 then with a scotch brite pad and a glove you get a liquid solution called dioxidene its phosgoric acid you go over it thoroughly and live it for 10 minute and repeat the procedure with the dioxidene. Then you neutralise it with in a bucked with water and methylated spirit you wipe on then quickly wipe off and the watch it shine but this type of method is for a experience person

  • @garryr
    @garryr ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Commenting at the comment requested time. I purchased a 6" jointer that was rusted from an auction and , yes it took some time and some elbow grease, but I cleaned up quite nicely with just penetrating oil and work. Yes there is some staining in places but works just the same. So I say the saw will clean up and be perfectly usable (assuming the electrics are still good) but you may see some blemished that trigger you or other people. If your unhappy with the results I will gladly take it of your hands.

  • @gunslinger1108
    @gunslinger1108 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    When we restored our older delta saw we used razor blades to scrap the rust away, use almost no pressure holding the blade at a 45 degree. Lube the surface with wd40.

  • @southerncreativestudio
    @southerncreativestudio ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Don't know if it's been suggested but the Boeshield Rust Free is a rust miracle worker.

  • @Cpt_Adama
    @Cpt_Adama ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Evaporust is your friend. you may have to scrape it to remove the stains.

  • @N1ghtF1re
    @N1ghtF1re 11 วันที่ผ่านมา

    I had my table saw in a storage unit for ~7 years, when I moved and had a shop again, I pulled it out and it was caked in rust. The place I was storing it had a rodent issue, most of the stuff I had there had to be thrown out. I used WD40 and a maroon pad, then I used Naval jelly. The naval jelly pulled all of the rust out of the pits.

  • @richardnewcomb9471
    @richardnewcomb9471 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +6

    I restore Vintage and Antique machinery. I have completed work for Private Owners, Corporations, National Museums and National & State Park Visitor Centers.
    CAUTION: Using a soft "Red" pad is not recommended. It can ruin the plane (flatness) of the saw table.
    I recommend you try using Flat (NEW) Carborundum sharpening stones of several grades with Isopar (odorless Kerosene) or Stove Fuel as the grinding Solvent.
    Use the same action you would as if you were lapping mating metal surfaces to maintain the flatness of the tabletop.
    You will be able to see this in the original grinding pattern from the manufacturer. As you remove material, the crowns of the pattern will be become obvious.
    If you remove more from one area as opposed to another, the crowns will be wider (lower) in the areas where more material was removed.
    All crowns should be the same width when finished. Indicating that you have maintained the original surface plane.
    NOTE: WD-40 gets sticky and attracts dust & debris over time and can cause "Fisheyes" in final finishes!
    I use the standard 100/240 Dual-Grit type stones to destroy rust on Cast Iron flat surfaces. You do not need to go crazy with Super-Fine grits - Read on to understand why.
    NEVER focus too much on one area! If the surface is that bad take the tabletop sections to an automotive machine shop as others have said in the comments.
    Have them remove as little as possible or risk weakening the sections or mismatching the ability to match planes upon reassembly.
    As other contributors have mentioned... Do not worry about the "Staining"!
    It adds character to your now unique saw table making it more identifiable should some low life grab it out of your shop. Want a perfect top - buy a new one!
    Once you are down to the surface you desire, I highly recommend white paper towels & Isopropyl Alcohol to remove all the Swarf from restoring the surface.
    After the pores have completely dried out (the alcohol has all evaporated) follow-up using a product named "Fluid Film". IT IS THE BEST corrosion inhibitor, PERIOD.
    You can get it at LOWE'S. Less is more with this product. Insert the pipette (for more even dispersal) and spray a light pattern from 18-20" over the "Open-Pore" surface.
    I have found that when you have applied as much as you believe to be the necessary amount - I have applied FOUR TIMES as much as is needed! Waste-Not!
    Using your fingertips, spread/massage (smear in circular action) the Fluid-Film into the pores. Remove any pooling. (You don't need that much.) Let it sit flat overnight.
    Fluid Film is Lanolin Based and continually spreads into pores and across surfaces on the molecular level. It is truly magical stuff! It even washes out of clothing easily!
    Next day using an Isopropyl [dampened] towel (Paper or Cloth) remove as much of the Fluid-Film as you are able, leaving only the pores full of the corrosion inhibitor.
    Take your time & wipe dry with isopropyl [dampened] towels, any leaching Fluid Film. That is any Fluid Film spreading out of the pores onto the surface to be waxed.
    NOW - you apply several coats of quality Paste Wax furniture polish. Minwax is the best but is now hard to find. Allow the polish to dry completely between coats.
    This is where the necessity for the Super-Fine abrasives is not essential - the application of the paste wax needs something to grab onto. Clean metal & a grit profile.
    You are now finished restoring your rusted saw tables. The lumber material will GLIDE over the Wax Surface as though angels have laid their hands upon the wood!
    Keep an eye on the condition of the wax treatment and reapply as necessary! This varies with Usage & Exposure.
    Enjoy your saw table.
    Best Regards,
    R. Newcomb, MKCM, USCG Retired

  • @mrmerkin6203
    @mrmerkin6203 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've restored many old (decades) cast iron tables ... table saw, jointer, horizontal saw, band saws, etc .... and simply start with 80 grit pads. Seems to work fine for me and not much you can't get out. So, for whatever that's worth. Good luck!

  • @tommegan6500
    @tommegan6500 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I had a fire in my boat shop 6 years ago. Among the machines I lost was a cast-base 10” Delta tilty tablesaw. Now I’m starting to move into a new shop, and I wanted to set up a router table on my 12” Walker- Turner tablesaw. I began to think about what to use for the actual table, and I thought about that old saw. It had been sitting outside the whole time, and the pot metal quadrants had melted in the fire, I didn’t have much hope for it.
    When I brought it into the shop though, a straight edge showed it to be un-warped, so I went after the surface with scrapers, then 3M pads. It cleaned up beautifully, actually a better surface than the old W-T saw it’s bolted to!
    A fire, then 6 years in the elements, and now perfect - I don’t think your saw should be much of a problem.

  • @adamb2619
    @adamb2619 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    You are now able to restore a vintage Delta or Powermatics! Welcome to the restoration club, you did an incredible job for such a horrible and unfortunate incident.

  • @thomasalison6188
    @thomasalison6188 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wow, that really sucks, sorry for your loss in the shop! Hope you are able to get it put back together W/O too much pain!

    • @Adierit
      @Adierit ปีที่แล้ว

      Why does he think water dripping on that matters any though? It's surface rust on a piece that literally doesn't matter. The entire thing could be rusted and as long as the saw motor still turned it wouldn't matter. Granted, he must not use that shop much for it to rust that much.

  • @ayellowbeard
    @ayellowbeard ปีที่แล้ว

    I have a similar (ongoing) issue with my Sawstop in that my shop didn't have heat and is drafty as a barn (which is why we call it "the barn"). It's first year in residence I put a tarp over the saw hoping condensation wouldn't get to it but by spring it was a mess. I resurfaced it with a combination of PB Blaster an array of sandpaper grits, brown pads, and steel wool which got most of the rust out. Last fall I put a small space heater and two fans to circulate the air. I also got a magnetic cover for the table and monitored the temps with a remote thermometer and kept the barn just above freezing. It was costly in heating bills but it (mostly) worked and I had just a couple of small oxidation spots on the table this last spring. I am hoping to mostly finish the barn by end of next summer which include insulation and heating so I don't have to go through a spring resurfacing of the saw every year. I've been using paste wax and Boeshield to coat the table but am intrigued by the cabon coat.

  • @michaelcummings2032
    @michaelcummings2032 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    So sorry that that happened. Glad you could salvage what you did.

  • @FatherOfTheParty
    @FatherOfTheParty ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You said you were surprised that in only a couple days this happened. I milled up some walnut (which I thought was dry) and set a couple pieces on my saw over night and came back to rust (not quite as bad as you had) that took hours to get off. Happens surprisingly fast.

  • @bobdriggers6111
    @bobdriggers6111 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    How long did it take for the saw to get so rusted?

    • @stevewitt5559
      @stevewitt5559 ปีที่แล้ว

      He was out of town for a few days, that is what he came home to.

  • @KnifeHandWoodDesign
    @KnifeHandWoodDesign ปีที่แล้ว

    I bought a jet tablesaw off market place and the cast iron looked like that. I used sandpaper on my random orbital sander. started at 80 and worked my way all the way up to 400. the top is nice and smooth and no issues with it.

  • @patrickstone9229
    @patrickstone9229 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Same thing happened to me, same saw and everything, never got the stain out, but I put deep gouges in it with some pocket screws, so the stains don't bother me anymore😅

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว

      THROWING THE KREG JIG AWAY RIGHT NOW

  • @ShopNation
    @ShopNation ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Your poor Festool sander 😂

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว

      Yeah man! It was orange when all said and done.

  • @DC-uo5hy
    @DC-uo5hy ปีที่แล้ว

    I use rubbing compoundb on new steel to smooth it and remove stains, using a disc polish pad. For heavy stains Wet sand paper 180 or 220 wet a 8:10 nd dry with mineral spirits then 400 then 800 then 1000 then 1500. Rub down with concrete rust remover . ..
    The reust remover works on other parts befor sanding too.
    For really bad areas use phosphoric acid, "Ospho, or Naval jelly.
    The fine w&d paper removes just tiny amounts, so no distortions worth concern.

  • @lothianmcadam1
    @lothianmcadam1 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    it's a shame you couldn't restore your saw. oh well... that's why you have home owners insurance, right?

  • @nmurphy7281
    @nmurphy7281 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So sorry this happened to you. I just reorganized my shop a couple weeks ago to avoid water pipes in my house. Had a slow drip from a pipe that ran just to the side of my cnc machine, if it was 6 inches to the left of where it lives would have been destroyed. Luckily I’m in an unfinished basement so I can see where everything runs.

    • @johnhaller5851
      @johnhaller5851 ปีที่แล้ว

      My mom had a water leak while not home, and it traveled through furnace ducts to find its way to the basement. Surprisingly, the leak was over a garage which didn't have a basement under it, but the ducts went through the garage to the ceiling of the basement, which is how the basement got water damage. Three floors were damaged. $60,000 of damage, and 3 roll-off dumpsters.
      I live in a ranch, and the only water hazard is a water heater in the garage, and it has a pan piped outside if it doesn't leak with a spray outside the pan. But, if a storm damaged my roof, that could also cause damage until I could get a blue tarp up.

  • @JohnOlejar
    @JohnOlejar 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Did you consider taking the table tops to a local machine shop and have them remilled?

  • @bauerbach1
    @bauerbach1 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    happened to my (much cheaper) saw. unfortunately I suspect with my sanding out the top, I may have unleveled the surface. Or it unleveled itself and I happened to notice after. Just an ever so slight convex curve. perhaps because I went more aggressive at the front and back edge where the rust was worse. check to be sure youre still flat.

  • @Roller76
    @Roller76 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    When I first saw the thumbnail I thought, "wow that's an odd looking table saw", and then I started watching and I thought it wasn't that bad, it's only rust. But then I tried to put myself in your shoes, after buying a brand new table saw and that happening, and I would've been upset. That said, I've never owned a quality table saw, except for my grandpop's very old Sears Craftsman saw. And recently I just bought another vintage Sears (belt driven) table saw from a nice guy on Craigslist and it has a decent amount of rust on the top. Which is surprising since we live in New Mexico and metal can stay bare for years without rusting. Compared to growing up in Jersey and metal rusts UNDERNEATH painted surfaces lol.
    So I'm sorry for your troubles but its given me hope and will help me get my table saw smooth.

  • @TheKurtTribute
    @TheKurtTribute ปีที่แล้ว

    My shop partially caught on fire around a year ago. All of my power tools and some hand tools were a total loss, I understand how you feel 100%!!!
    Our sawstop at work unfortunately experienced a lot of rust for similar reasons, we just used steel wool and WD-40. Staining is still really bad, but at least it’s mostly smooth.

  • @lucasstarbuck6797
    @lucasstarbuck6797 ปีที่แล้ว

    I’ve had this happen. I used a wide chisel for the proud spots and steel wool to make it shine. My saw, however, is far from new.

  • @parzival9494
    @parzival9494 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Sorry that happened Drew. How did you get into the miter slots to clean those out?

    • @wittworks
      @wittworks  ปีที่แล้ว

      thank you. I used small pieces of maroon pad by hand

  • @symposes
    @symposes ปีที่แล้ว

    If you can salvage the saw, I say get some kind of design applied to the surface of the table. Like covering a scar with a tattoo kind of thing. Just a thought. maybe you can resurface, do some kind of tool black coating and then re-coat it and once you wax the top with some paste wax to get the friction back down, etc....

  • @guybowers9094
    @guybowers9094 10 วันที่ผ่านมา

    This is beyond difficult to see, I feel your pain for sure. I was transitioning to my shop built into my existing garage and had moved some equipment over to it. However, work was busy, and it took time before i could get back to the shop build. and we got several days of fog, and it got my stuff hard.

  • @kevinr1704
    @kevinr1704 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm glad you were able to get it cleaned up! I need to get some of the carbon coat for my saw. It has a few stains from a leak also, but it wasn't anything like yours was. At first, it looked like yours was Tin coated. 😂