The good thing about being behind on TH-cam viewing is I don't have to wait to see what happens next lmao. On to ep4 which will hopefully have some better news....
Hi Andy Just thought I’d share my method of getting the rear head and barrels off. I leave the swing arm attached to the motor, remove air box and cabling to the motor, remove engine bolts and rear shock. Hoist up the rear of the frame from the roof of the garage and hey, plenty of room. Incidentally, while you have the rear barrel off it’s worth looking down at the crank to see if the oil galley plug is backing out. Mike L
Hi Michael. 1. I don't have a way of suspending from overhead, it was my first thought. 2. I cover the oil gallery plug in the Ducati's Dirty Secrets video that I uploaded today. Cheers, Andy
Hi Andy. Enjoy your videos. Have a look around the back of the cam sprocket on the heads as there might be a a small hole that lines up with a hole in the cam shaft at TDC. I did the belts on my m8s ST2 & found them. I wouldn't think they will be that different.
Hi Andy, great seeing you work on your bikes, especially the classic 900ss. I think someone before you has mucked around with the barrels & pistons. Probably used incorrect rings that’s caused the scratch marks in the bores. Get a new gasket set from Gowies. You will find the barrel gasket is paper not steel. Replace the silicone seals too. Good luck with the rebuild!
Excellent. But, to be honest, it's really put us off owning one of these machines due to the complicated motor. I will watch the next episode. Thank you for this.
Most exciting “series” on TH-cam. Can’t wait for the next instalment. I should be spending this time researching solar panels and inverters but it’s much more fun watching you dissect your 900SS. Thanks Andy.
...and I thought all Tasmanians had 6 toes on each foot...😜...Loved the H&S Thongs. Hope your welds hold up to all that shaking. Nice 'alternative' way to 'drop' the Donk, fab lateral thinking...👍🏼😎
Is there only the single scratch in each bore? I’m guessing you don’t know if they’re the original rings? You think they would be with the limited mileage, but it would be possible for a new ring to cause such a scratch. I doubt Ducati would not check/de-burr the rings during the original assembly ... so have they been replaced at some stage?
If, when you did your compression test, which was done dry, you had also put some oil down the plug holes and repeated the test you would know, before stripping the motor whether the problem is limited to bores or head. Or even shared between the two.
Thanks for the extra work with all that camera stuff. If it comes to a certain complexity while repairing and I have to concentrate, I would get crazy to manage the filming. I only own and repair a newer Yamaha and an old MZ, but I am dreaming of Ducati :)
Nice engine stand and clever solution to take that lump out safely on your own. Interrested to see how you ar going to torque those heads later on..without headgaskets! that would scare me a little bit. I'm sure i will learn some more along the way. Cheers!
Hey Andy - been watchin' the engine removal and man - these new fandangled Dukes are WAY more complex than the old Bevel drives. Deaggin' an engine out of me' 79 900SS is pretty straight forward by comparrison. Job well done in the end. The engine cradle you fabricated was/is an impressive solution.
Hi Andy, I've had 50 years 25 with ducatis. I'm believe this is a very low mileage bike. Looking at those plugs the first thing I would do is compression test then check strainer for flakes. Very common problem with these bikes. Anyhow good luck with it and have a happy New year.
Cheers Darryl, thanks for that. The first thing I did was a compression test, it had a tick under 8 bar with a cold engine. I don’t know the history for the first 12,000 kilometers but for the last 10,000 I have not ever noticed any metal in the oil during changes. Just so I have the terminology correct are you referring to the oil filter, or the strainer on the pick up? Oh, and happy new year to you too
Very interesting Andy I have seen plenty of motorcycle engines pulled down but never a Ducati, saw a yellow one at my local shopping centre that looked around the same age as yours.
I would check the top ring hasn't micro welded to the bore and picked up. Happens on nikasil bores occasionally but happens all the same. You have iron rings right? As for the guides check out K lining them rather than new guides. Ducati rockers, valves and guides are notoriously ridiculously expensive. £1600 for a full set of rockers for a 916. Thanks for the video.
Good idea in principle but it relies on someone else to be "on the same page" and if they are not they may make things worse.. In my experience it is safer to rely on some mechanical lifting means that doesn't have a mind of its own.
Interesting video. Did I see a lot of scratches on the vertical piston or was that just a video illusion? However the thing that got me really thinking was the scratch in both cylinder walls. Both Scratches in approximately the same area and straight as a desert road would make me very interested in the end gap on all the rings. My educated guess is someone, somewhere, sometime did not file down the gap properly.
If the scratch is the same in both bores... It's Possible... That the ring ends scored the bored during assembly / pre running. If the scratches were coil like, then maybe you could expect a ring score cos they actually "spin" during their journey when it's running. I hope it's "Within" and your not up for more big bucks, not the best news, I'm keen to know the exact upon further inspection! Merry Christmas mate, and happy New Year too!.
Great work, looking forward to the next one. Bore scoring maybe as mentioned already, wrong rings or pegged... Good luck anyway, hope it's nothing serious.
Thanks, for another great video. The whole trellis design is great for production i assume. Everything i work on now days is for the benefit of the factory, and no one else it seems. Begs the question, why if its quicker to put together at the factory, do the Germans and or Italians, charge more for bikes, when they are no better quality ?
In its day it had state of the art Showa suspension, Brembo gold line brakes, Brembo rims and no expense spared on pretty well every component. Add that to the low unit production and you have an expensive bike.
Looks a lot less damage than I was expecting from your description. I cant quite make out the exact orientation in the barrel of the scratches but it looks to my inexperienced eyes to be from the join in rings on both, did someone fit a third party set or an incorrect size maybe ?
Hello Andy ! I have scrambler 800. I have front cylinder piston slap noise. Can I replaced front cylinder and piston without engine removing from the bike ? Thanks.
It isn't nice to see the score in the bores, looking at them from the vid I doubt they would affect performance and as the bike isn't used in anger I doubt they would need replacing but you're the man on the scene and I guess you will make the right decision after analysis of the score. I didn't expect to see wear on the bores, modern engines from my experience especially using synthetic oils have little wear and many vehicles are scrapped because of expensive ancillary faults with perfectly good engines. An FJ1200 with 25,000 miles I did a crankcase change a few years back due to a broken chain cleaning off the clutch slave cylinder (it was bought from a breaker like this with new crankcases and all parts to repair) inside the engine, cams, mains, bores etc were like new. This bike could have been scrapped due to the cost of crankcases. Incidentally a great bike. I recently lifted the head from a 20-year-old or more 1.5 Peugeot diesel engine with 135,000 miles and the hone marks were still in the bores as was the FJ, camshafts were like new as were the big ends and main bearings. I knew the car and it was maintained from new. I did have a 900ss I way tell you about. I'm enjoying the vids as usual. Thanks
@@ANDY5 from my research, the length doesn't matter unless you use the torque wrench at zero degrees. At 90 degrees you will always get the correct torque whether 25mm or 83mm. I'm guessing they set the drive at 83mm to get the torque tool far enough away to use it. If you could fit a crows foot in there and get the torque wrench on it, that would be the cheapest way forward. The Proto adapters were all 2 inches center to center making it easier to calculate when using them a zero degrees. Maybe we can get Matt at theworkshop to explain the math of why these work. I think it has to do with the sine of the angle, which at 90 degrees is 1, but I don't completely remember.
The top of the barrel has a rim that fits tight and flush into a recess in the head. There are oil feed and return ports that connect the barrel to the head via short bushings, each of which has a Viton O ring.
@@H-M-78 Normally the mating surfaces of a head and barrel are machined flat and have a gasket in between; on Ducatis, the head has a small recess cut into it about 2mm deep and the top of the barrel liner sticks out about the same amount. The top of the liner fits tightly into the head recess and when the head is tightened, a perfect seal is made all around without the need for a head gasket. There are barrel-to-motor gaskets at the base of each barrel. I think you need to buy a Ducati of your own and go play!
Great video Andy, are there differences in the way an ‘L’ engine gets oil to each head and why are there no head gaskets ? Also - Not sure what you call flip flops in Tasmania but I was wearing crocks the other day while welding and burned my bloody toe. LOL.
No difference in oil delivery to the heads. No head gaskets is just how Ducati rolled, they rely on a metal to metal seal of the machined sections for the combustion chamber and o-rings for the oil passages. We call flip flops thongs, yes... I know. Crocs????? I don’t wear Crocs. You know the holes in the front? That’s where your dignity leaks out 😂
I had to buy this tool when I was working on my Harley, a little fiddly but seemed to work well www.motionpro.com/a/adjustable-torque-wrench-adapter-08-0380/ Needed it to torque the rocker boxes and covers when the motor is serviced in the frame. I can measure it for you if you decide to try and make it yourself. If you weren't half way around the world I'd just loan it to you.
That would work. The Ducati one is 83mm between the centre of the head nut and the torque wrench and used at 90 degrees. There is another version that retains the centre and is bent up and over the top of the head.
@@ANDY5 I'm also finding some Proto brand short wrenches in metric and SAE that have a 3/8 square drive on the end. The set was $130usd and these might work too. If the torque wrench is kept at 90 degrees you'd still get correct torque without having to calculate a multiplier for the length of the wrench. These would also give you a very stubby spanner for those times when short is the only way to get on a fastener. I haven't seen any discount versions of these yet, or I might already own them. Motionpro also has a 12/14 mm wrench with square drive in the middle. If that had the correct size, it is about a third of the price.
Bringing this back up because a video came through my suggested th-cam.com/video/tv_KHH55qdQ/w-d-xo.html This shows that as long as the adapter is at 90 degrees, the length doesn't matter. They used a Motion Pro tool and a crowfoot tool and reached the same general torque. This is something I've been meaning to test, but now I don't need to test it myself.
It's the long filter on the very bottom right side. Be careful taking it out. It's just below the oil sight glass. It's important you take it out every oil change. You may get small aluminium bits in there but that's usually from when the bike is new. Put a magnet on any shiny bits. See if anything sticks. Chances are you have flaking rockers. I'm not saying thats the problem but with ducatis history from mid 90s to 2000 flaky rockers was an issue. Send me a message to nakaishi@optusnet.com.au
Did you check your oil strainer for metal. I have 4 dukes includes a 1992 superlight. I do all my own work. Just lap your valves and do the shims yourself then you know it will be done properly. Don't pay someone to do it.
Darryl I have been rebuilding engines for 35 years, I have worked for a number of engine shops including one of Australia's premier performance shops in the '80's. I have done the shims myself on this engine. I have not yet stripped the heads and checked the valves but, and I'm assuming that you haven't watched the video properly, there are deeper issues than a valve lap. To answer your previous questions no, as yet I have not cut the filter open and no, as yet I have not inspected the rocker arms. Keep your shirt on mate. Just because some Ducati's can be disassembled in the frame doesn't mean they all can. Just because some Ducati's had rocker arms flake, doesn't mean they all do. Chill out brother.
Wow, so many comments. Bare with me guys, I hit the publish button and then went riding all day. I’ll get to you all in good time.
The good thing about being behind on TH-cam viewing is I don't have to wait to see what happens next lmao. On to ep4 which will hopefully have some better news....
Andy, you make it look simple
So many comments is a high quality problem. We just like seeing the progress. Keep up the good work.
Up to the next vid. Thumbs up... I’ve installed the 940cc big bore kit to get rid of the oil burning 😃
Must be honest i was expecting broken rings ....looking forward to the next vid thanks m8 👍😜
Cracking job Andy👍 and the great thing is that’s the sort work around that happens in our garages and sheds, particularly as we’re not sponsored 👍
Top job Andy.
Hi Andy
Just thought I’d share my method of getting the rear head and barrels off.
I leave the swing arm attached to the motor, remove air box and cabling to the motor, remove engine bolts and rear shock. Hoist up the rear of the frame from the roof of the garage and hey, plenty of room.
Incidentally, while you have the rear barrel off it’s worth looking down at the crank to see if the oil galley plug is backing out.
Mike L
Hi Michael. 1. I don't have a way of suspending from overhead, it was my first thought. 2. I cover the oil gallery plug in the Ducati's Dirty Secrets video that I uploaded today. Cheers, Andy
Hi Andy. Enjoy your videos. Have a look around the back of the cam sprocket on the heads as there might be a a small hole that lines up with a hole in the cam shaft at TDC. I did the belts on my m8s ST2 & found them. I wouldn't think they will be that different.
Hi Andy, great seeing you work on your bikes, especially the classic 900ss. I think someone before you has mucked around with the barrels & pistons. Probably used incorrect rings that’s caused the scratch marks in the bores. Get a new gasket set from Gowies. You will find the barrel gasket is paper not steel. Replace the silicone seals too. Good luck with the rebuild!
Excellent. But, to be honest, it's really put us off owning one of these machines due to the complicated motor. I will watch the next episode. Thank you for this.
Most exciting “series” on TH-cam. Can’t wait for the next instalment. I should be spending this time researching solar panels and inverters but it’s much more fun watching you dissect your 900SS. Thanks Andy.
As Mick said. I expected to see broken rings. You got the engine out I'm impressed with your engine out engineering. Ep 4 awaits Andy
svaka cast 👍👍👍 ciao from Serbia , fantastican tutorijal !!! Looking forward to the next ep !!!
Great work Andy.
...and I thought all Tasmanians had 6 toes on each foot...😜...Loved the H&S Thongs. Hope your welds hold up to all that shaking. Nice 'alternative' way to 'drop' the Donk, fab lateral thinking...👍🏼😎
Good work. I enjoy watching your videos because you do stuff I THINK I could attempt, but probably wouldn’t 😂 Looking forward to the next episode 👍
Done well I reckon mate. Looking forward to the next ep.
nice one andy, looking forward to the next episode.
Great video,,thanks for showing and sharing,,your doing good,,get someone to help getting that engine back in and on the bike,
Great viewing , clever solo dismantling but i think you may need help putting the engine back. All the best.
Fantastic post 👍🏻
Made it look so easy. Repatriation I would say 😎 definitely see your finger nail jump over that scratch. Wishing you and yours a happy new year 👍🇬🇧
Is there only the single scratch in each bore?
I’m guessing you don’t know if they’re the original rings? You think they would be with the limited mileage, but it would be possible for a new ring to cause such a scratch.
I doubt Ducati would not check/de-burr the rings during the original assembly ... so have they been replaced at some stage?
If, when you did your compression test, which was done dry, you had also put some oil down the plug holes and repeated the test you would know, before stripping the motor whether the problem is limited to bores or head. Or even shared between the two.
Perfectly timed video series. Probably my 900ss needs to undergo the same process soon :)
Thanks for the extra work with all that camera stuff. If it comes to a certain complexity while repairing and I have to concentrate, I would get crazy to manage the filming. I only own and repair a newer Yamaha and an old MZ, but I am dreaming of Ducati :)
Watching you work is like relaxing in a warm “radox” bath ..... arrrrrrr.
That dirt on the studs when barrells are removed is a pain hey. Stuff falls everywhere.
Nice engine stand and clever solution to take that lump out safely on your own. Interrested to see how you ar going to torque those heads later on..without headgaskets! that would scare me a little bit. I'm sure i will learn some more along the way. Cheers!
Hey Andy - been watchin' the engine removal and man - these new fandangled Dukes are WAY more complex than the old Bevel drives. Deaggin' an engine out of me' 79 900SS is pretty straight forward by comparrison. Job well done in the end. The engine cradle you fabricated was/is an impressive solution.
Hi Andy, I've had 50 years 25 with ducatis. I'm believe this is a very low mileage bike. Looking at those plugs the first thing I would do is compression test then check strainer for flakes. Very common problem with these bikes. Anyhow good luck with it and have a happy New year.
Cheers Darryl, thanks for that. The first thing I did was a compression test, it had a tick under 8 bar with a cold engine. I don’t know the history for the first 12,000 kilometers but for the last 10,000 I have not ever noticed any metal in the oil during changes. Just so I have the terminology correct are you referring to the oil filter, or the strainer on the pick up? Oh, and happy new year to you too
Good to see you've got the NT work boots on ;)
lol
Very interesting Andy I have seen plenty of motorcycle engines pulled down but never a Ducati, saw a yellow one at my local shopping centre that looked around the same age as yours.
Steal the engine for me...just kidding. Kinda 😕
Awesome Andy .....why no head gaskets mate.....do tell
Just how Ducati rolled. They rely on a metal to metal seal of the machined surfaces for the combustion chamber and o-rings for the oil passageways
Thongs in the workshop, well that's fine, but shorts!!??
Must be warm in Tassie.
Happy New Year from the Hunter Valley.
all yeah a new bed time story
I would check the top ring hasn't micro welded to the bore and picked up. Happens on nikasil bores occasionally but happens all the same. You have iron rings right? As for the guides check out K lining them rather than new guides. Ducati rockers, valves and guides are notoriously ridiculously expensive. £1600 for a full set of rockers for a 916. Thanks for the video.
Nice Job!
yeah I'm in ..great show Andy ..Can you do a testastretta next series😀
I'm looking forward to seeing how you put the engine back in. Second man for safeties sake?
Good idea in principle but it relies on someone else to be "on the same page" and if they are not they may make things worse..
In my experience it is safer to rely on some mechanical lifting means that doesn't have a mind of its own.
Agreed. Maybe, maybe, I could have used a ratchet strap to secure it, but where’s the fun in that?
@@AuMechanic So loud and clear! This is why techie bikers need techie biker buddies that are in tune with each other.
@@ANDY5
Maybe one for going back in which can take a bit longer but coming out it was fine.
Interesting video. Did I see a lot of scratches on the vertical piston or was that just a video illusion? However the thing that got me really thinking was the scratch in both cylinder walls. Both Scratches in approximately the same area and straight as a desert road would make me very interested in the end gap on all the rings. My educated guess is someone, somewhere, sometime did not file down the gap properly.
There is a location on both belt cover backing sections where a 6 mm screw can be inserted to lock both cam pulleys.
Not on this engine there isn’t.
Hope it's not going to be an expensive conclusion mate. I thaught it was a ring problem too at first when you showed us all.
Hi Andy. Do you have a video on how you removed the Carbs? Thanks for your content btw
If the scratch is the same in both bores... It's Possible... That the ring ends scored the bored during assembly / pre running.
If the scratches were coil like, then maybe you could expect a ring score cos they actually "spin" during their journey when it's running.
I hope it's "Within" and your not up for more big bucks, not the best news, I'm keen to know the exact upon further inspection!
Merry Christmas mate, and happy New Year too!.
Great work, looking forward to the next one. Bore scoring maybe as mentioned already, wrong rings or pegged... Good luck anyway, hope it's nothing serious.
Thanks, for another great video. The whole trellis design is great for production i assume. Everything i work on now days is for the benefit of the factory, and no one else it seems. Begs the question, why if its quicker to put together at the factory, do the Germans and or Italians, charge more for bikes, when they are no better quality ?
In its day it had state of the art Showa suspension, Brembo gold line brakes, Brembo rims and no expense spared on pretty well every component. Add that to the low unit production and you have an expensive bike.
Looks a lot less damage than I was expecting from your description. I cant quite make out the exact orientation in the barrel of the scratches but it looks to my inexperienced eyes to be from the join in rings on both, did someone fit a third party set or an incorrect size maybe ?
Great video, Why no head gasket? Interesting to see the engine come apart as I have the Ducati scrambler. Where do I get wizards piss?
That’s just how Ducati roll. The machined surfaces creat the combustion chamber seal, o-rings for the oil passageways
I hope they're not cracks!
No broken rings !! Pity about that scoring though.
Hello Andy !
I have scrambler 800. I have front cylinder piston slap noise. Can I replaced front cylinder and piston without engine removing from the bike ?
Thanks.
Great vid Andy that engine removal was sketchy as. Shame about the bores
Where can I get Wizard Piss (tm) and does it need to be an Australian Wizard or will any piss from any Wizard do? Thanks!! Love the videos!
It isn't nice to see the score in the bores, looking at them from the vid I doubt they would affect performance and as the bike isn't used in anger I doubt they would need replacing but you're the man on the scene and I guess you will make the right decision after analysis of the score.
I didn't expect to see wear on the bores, modern engines from my experience especially using synthetic oils have little wear and many vehicles are scrapped because of expensive ancillary faults with perfectly good engines.
An FJ1200 with 25,000 miles I did a crankcase change a few years back due to a broken chain cleaning off the clutch slave cylinder (it was bought from a breaker like this with new crankcases and all parts to repair) inside the engine, cams, mains, bores etc were like new. This bike could have been scrapped due to the cost of crankcases. Incidentally a great bike.
I recently lifted the head from a 20-year-old or more 1.5 Peugeot diesel engine with 135,000 miles and the hone marks were still in the bores as was the FJ, camshafts were like new as were the big ends and main bearings. I knew the car and it was maintained from new.
I did have a 900ss I way tell you about.
I'm enjoying the vids as usual. Thanks
Hello Andy hope you had a great christmas.how the hand now
Still a bit tender if I smack it directly where I injured it, otherwise fine. 👍
Steel cap thongs would work andy ...... great video 👌
Great video you mentioned making a tool to torque the head nuts down could you not use a crows foot with an extension on to a torque wrench ?
Yes I could, but the correct torque is achieved with a tool that is 83mm centre to centre and used at 90 degrees.
@@ANDY5 from my research, the length doesn't matter unless you use the torque wrench at zero degrees. At 90 degrees you will always get the correct torque whether 25mm or 83mm. I'm guessing they set the drive at 83mm to get the torque tool far enough away to use it. If you could fit a crows foot in there and get the torque wrench on it, that would be the cheapest way forward. The Proto adapters were all 2 inches center to center making it easier to calculate when using them a zero degrees. Maybe we can get Matt at theworkshop to explain the math of why these work. I think it has to do with the sine of the angle, which at 90 degrees is 1, but I don't completely remember.
No head gasket?? What? Explain please...👍
The top of the barrel has a rim that fits tight and flush into a recess in the head. There are oil feed and return ports that connect the barrel to the head via short bushings, each of which has a Viton O ring.
Yes, as stated by ittia, thanks mate, the machined surfaces create the seal for the combustion chamber and o-rings for the oil passages.
I still don't get it 😀👍 Great channel!
@@H-M-78 Normally the mating surfaces of a head and barrel are machined flat and have a gasket in between; on Ducatis, the head has a small recess cut into it about 2mm deep and the top of the barrel liner sticks out about the same amount. The top of the liner fits tightly into the head recess and when the head is tightened, a perfect seal is made all around without the need for a head gasket. There are barrel-to-motor gaskets at the base of each barrel. I think you need to buy a Ducati of your own and go play!
Great video Andy, are there differences in the way an ‘L’ engine gets oil to each head and why are there no head gaskets ? Also - Not sure what you call flip flops in Tasmania but I was wearing crocks the other day while welding and burned my bloody toe. LOL.
No difference in oil delivery to the heads. No head gaskets is just how Ducati rolled, they rely on a metal to metal seal of the machined sections for the combustion chamber and o-rings for the oil passages. We call flip flops thongs, yes... I know. Crocs????? I don’t wear Crocs. You know the holes in the front? That’s where your dignity leaks out 😂
Oh please promise if you come to the UK sometime you don’t go out in public in Thongs and nothing else 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I had to buy this tool when I was working on my Harley, a little fiddly but seemed to work well www.motionpro.com/a/adjustable-torque-wrench-adapter-08-0380/ Needed it to torque the rocker boxes and covers when the motor is serviced in the frame. I can measure it for you if you decide to try and make it yourself. If you weren't half way around the world I'd just loan it to you.
That would work. The Ducati one is 83mm between the centre of the head nut and the torque wrench and used at 90 degrees. There is another version that retains the centre and is bent up and over the top of the head.
@@ANDY5 I'm also finding some Proto brand short wrenches in metric and SAE that have a 3/8 square drive on the end. The set was $130usd and these might work too. If the torque wrench is kept at 90 degrees you'd still get correct torque without having to calculate a multiplier for the length of the wrench. These would also give you a very stubby spanner for those times when short is the only way to get on a fastener. I haven't seen any discount versions of these yet, or I might already own them.
Motionpro also has a 12/14 mm wrench with square drive in the middle. If that had the correct size, it is about a third of the price.
Bringing this back up because a video came through my suggested th-cam.com/video/tv_KHH55qdQ/w-d-xo.html This shows that as long as the adapter is at 90 degrees, the length doesn't matter. They used a Motion Pro tool and a crowfoot tool and reached the same general torque. This is something I've been meaning to test, but now I don't need to test it myself.
It's the long filter on the very bottom right side. Be careful taking it out. It's just below the oil sight glass. It's important you take it out every oil change. You may get small aluminium bits in there but that's usually from when the bike is new. Put a magnet on any shiny bits. See if anything sticks. Chances are you have flaking rockers. I'm not saying thats the problem but with ducatis history from mid 90s to 2000 flaky rockers was an issue. Send me a message to nakaishi@optusnet.com.au
THIS is why TH-cam is awesome
10/10 AAA
You copied and pasted my favourite eBay feedback!
doctor
No need to take engine out. Everything can be done in the frame. Check for flaking rockers. This is so frustrating watching this.
How? Cut the shock mount to lift the head off?
No just drop the rear of the engine..remove the shocky
Did you check your oil strainer for metal. I have 4 dukes includes a 1992 superlight. I do all my own work. Just lap your valves and do the shims yourself then you know it will be done properly. Don't pay someone to do it.
Darryl I have been rebuilding engines for 35 years, I have worked for a number of engine shops including one of Australia's premier performance shops in the '80's. I have done the shims myself on this engine. I have not yet stripped the heads and checked the valves but, and I'm assuming that you haven't watched the video properly, there are deeper issues than a valve lap. To answer your previous questions no, as yet I have not cut the filter open and no, as yet I have not inspected the rocker arms. Keep your shirt on mate. Just because some Ducati's can be disassembled in the frame doesn't mean they all can. Just because some Ducati's had rocker arms flake, doesn't mean they all do. Chill out brother.