Always leave the nut on a couple of turns when pulling off a taper. This prevents the problem of flying gears/flywheels. Also you could have heated up the gear with a heat gun possibly making it easier to get off.
@@ANDY5 Its a good tip to follow but if we could remember to use every tip trick and workshop practice most of know about but forget we would-be geniuses, and as my old man used to say the man who hasn't made a mistake hasn't made anything until I made the mistake that is and all hell let loose.
Wow this is so valuable. Im a hobby mechanic but was just to scared to open my cases up and service/check them. Seeing this helps me out massively and takes the scary bit away ;)!
Andy, great series as always. Not sure about using silicon as a case sealer because the silicon squeezed out inside your cases can, and often does, come loose and can end up sticking in oil passages and the like. The commonly used case sealer is threebond. It is more of a mastic product that doesn't cause internal dramas. You may have heard of it through the various manufacturer variants: Hindabond, Yamabond, Suzukibond and, believe it or not, Ducatibond. Just something to consider. Also, in regards to removing your cam pulley, lactate was probably the culprit and some heat may have helped in the area. Heat may also have helped with the tapered gear. BTW, I'm also a backyard mechanic. Trying to restore 2 MGBs, 2 1984 Honda VF1000s and a 1973 Honda SL100 plus keep a 93 750SS and a 97 Monster 750 on the road.
Nice work, Andy. While you're in there, I'd recommend you also change the gearchange lever return spring and fork return spring. It's not uncommon for them to break. One of mine went at only 16k and, as they're only a few dollars, I think it's a worthwhile precaution.Should be a real sweet runner when it's back together.
Ohh Andy, all too familiar with the flying primary gear! My god, so many times I still think how on this earth did it miss me! Love your enthusiasm, energy, wit & wisdom! Brad knows his stuff because I’ve known him a while. I’m glad you’ve decided to replace the bearings as par for course. You’ll know it’s done right, precise & methodological. As a mate told me... just remember, someone at the factory assembled the engine faster & with less care, so take your time & do it your way! Thanks for your content! Keep it up & enjoy it!🥇💯👍
We used to use a 2 jaw puller on the primary gear, we would load it up and go home for the night. most times we would come in the next day and the gear and puller would be on the floor. Yes this was at the dealership...lol While you are there change the output bearing and check rod bearings. Also change the output seal and layshaft seal. Given the fretting on the bearing you should closely inspect the mains as well. Turn down that flywheel to 2lbs as fell for some fun.
Hey rider !! When the crank bearing failed on my 1991. Because of the 194.000 miles , 6th gear was a bit of a singer . I had a friend that did LOTS of Ebay parts stuff . he found me a complete transmission to drop in for ONLY 175 BUCKS !!!😎😎😎😎😎🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Wow. It was like watching a horror movie. Didn’t want to watch but couldn’t look away. It opened the scars left on me when I split my Suzuki 500 twin two stroke back in my pimply youth using a few open ended spanners. And that wasn’t in the same league as the Duc. Very impressed. But glad I’m not the one paying for the parts 🥵
You're a braver man than me. All those chocolate gaskets and spaghetti o-rings to re-assemble. She'll be a good un once you're done. A keeper for sure.
My 1991 had drama with a bad crank bearing years ago. Your video brought back memories !!!! My bike only had 195.000 miles when it failed , beats me why ??? 😄😄😄😄😄😄😎😎😎😎😎🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Really enjoying these vids although I'm losing sleep worrying. I love your attitude to confronting the issues and getting it fixed. Lots of people out here willing you on.
That flying off, had me stoking a 30year old wound🙊had my mk1 cortina steering wheel fly off and split my lip, learn quickly and only undo bolt a few turns😂very brave and expensive, I recon them Italian bit will be. 🤓
Woozers! That was some pressure on that shaft! Reminds me of the not following the old rule of leaving the nut on when removing a car steering wheel! Your a brave guy 👍🏻
Love the SloMo of the release Andy...fortunate your Nuts weren't in the line of Fire or your be needing the Puller to get them back down from behind your Ear Lobes...Super Series, can't wait for the next Episode...👍🏼😎
A very informative and honest video. Some of the real problems that can exist when you rebuild your engine, that are often edited out! Well done, matey.
Andy Love the Channel mate, The Bearing pitting looks like a Ducati quality control issue, Like rocker arms, crankshaft oil plugs that wind out and generators that undo themselves just to mention three! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video again Andy. Hopefully now you have pulled the engine down and identified all the parts etc that need replacing, the engine will go back together and possibly give you a non-oil burning experience from then on!! Remember it's a Ducati and I did say POSSIBLY give you a great non-oil burn and leak free life after all the work is done and the information being passed onto you is no doubt putting your mind at rest that all will be done as per those who have been there, done that and learnt from their work on these bikes.
Awesome as always Andy. Wow 'hoolie doolie' for sure - the power of stiction, tappy tapity tap BANG!! Like a gun. Glad you were standing to the side of the load, good man. Keep on truck'in Andy, you're the salt of the earth.
Hi Andy, we can all appreciate your apprehension about expecting possible criticism or tut-tutting from trained Ducati factory guys, but for me, as an enthusiastic amateur, I watch you and this channel because I trust your instincts. And you honed those instincts over a life-time of working on bikes, sometimes learning the hard way and sometimes from the mistakes of your workmates. Andy, keep swingin' those spanners. I'll keep watching and learning.
These Ducati engines look quite simple compared to some Japanese engines. Makes you wonder why they charge so much to service them. Great job Andy - watching this series is educational and entertaining
brilliant series Andy..informative and well produced ...I subscribe and once upon a time I pulled the rocker cover off my Testastretta...that primary gear shooting off the crankshaft was a walk in the park compared to "Pandora's box" up top...love ya work
G'Day mate. Im a new subscriber and fellow content producer (in no way am I on your skill level.) But I'd just wanna say how much I'm loving the journey you are taking me on. Ps My tool envy is at a peak when the Big Red Milwaukee power driver comes out. How can anyone not like that bit of kit. Keep up the great content. Be safe. Be Happy.
Bleeding jeeezuz. When that gear gave up the tug of war it let you have it. I’m still here and I’m lost. Lol. Your in the guts and organs of that motor,I’d be Jack the Ripper on in there. Good video Andy.
make sure the screw in the little pin the starter idler gear runs on is tight. also watch the flat shim behind the flywheel assembly when you put it back together. that's a real pita. you can make an engine stand that holds the rh cases - you make 3 posts with pins to go into the 3 mount holes, and a little support to hold up at the oil filter bit, if that makes sense. drill 4 holes in your bench and bolt them in. makes it much easier. you can put the alt cover back on and use the alt cover tool you made to pull the lh case off the rh case, pushing against the crank .
If you go down the path of all new bearings, you may want to do another mod that wont cost much. On these engines the pistons have an oil jet under them for cooling. BUT, the rear only gets it for 180deg because its blocked by the crank wheel. On later engines Ducati fixed this. You can fix it by extending the oil galley to the other side of the where it'll reach under piston for 360deg. I first saw it on Ducati Kamna in Germany web page. If your interested, I can send info...
I think your theory about the brake fluid getting in the bearings is a good one and that would for sure turn the bearing into cheese but on the downside its turning into a costly rebuild ,, good luck with it these are great video's
Doesn’t the clutch pushrod pass through a rubber seal ? Not sure how a leaking clutch slave on the outside of engine could have the clutch fluid get inside the engine and attack the bearing on the inside ?
The rod seals with two orings. My have baked theory was that the fluid could reach the bearing, but it would need to get past the orings first. Possible, but highly unlikely. Crib death seems to be the most likely hypothesis.
First two minute intro, very humble, very honest and very appreciated Andy. Always awkward pulling a different motor apart the very first time. Keep up the good work, regards,
I’m happy to report I finally got my oil strainer loose. It was in tough shape from the previous owner. I couldn’t get a socket or wrench to grab it. A couple of small flecks but much cleaner than yours. I’m hopeful. Now for the clutch inspection... FYI..A BMW mechanic friend of mine gave me some advice on grabbing bad fasteners like my strainer. Put some valve lapping compound on it. It fills in some of the void. Worked great!
Bikeboy has a good article on retarding the ignition, because of the bigger bore and compression increase, easy mod to do while your in there! Like you said, he's a great Ducati resource....... your doing well bro!
As well as taking a photo of the ignition pickup a quick spray with any handy rattle can paint would have left you an image of exactly where the nut and washer were located and thus the pickup.
I like your relaxed presentation style 👍. I was waiting for that bang though 😁 done a few of them. Never seen that bearing go though. Will be interested to see what preload you put on the mains 👍.
Hi Andy, if Im joining any metal to metal surfaces without gasket I use a sealant called wellseal, it was made for rolls royce back in the 30s, rolls was the first engine manufacture to mate metal to metal without a paper gasket, I was told it was to make the repair of aircraft in the field of war without the need for delicate paper gaskets. Ron from the uk
as peter says, leave the nut on. you need to be careful to not mark the end of the crank too - it does go into a seal (that is meant to be fitted the "wrong" way) and is the oil path into the big ends. if you do remove the pick up connectors, you need to make sure the terminals go back in the same place. swap the terminals side to side and it won't advance or maybe not even fire on that cylinder.
Hi Andy ! Very good job (except for the primary gear extraction without the nut in place !! I was frightened...). Fortunatly everything ending well I agree with Chris commentary : When you will reassemble your engine beware of prestressing of the bearings. Its very very important on a Ducati motor. The diiferents shims are calculated for that. You will have to recalculate precilsely presterssing BEFORE reassembling the engine with a special tool (comparateur in french comparator in english?). You will probably have to change evry shims.
Having had a repetitive motion injury, I'm a big fan of using power tools whenever possible. Really want to pick up a battery powered ratchet similar to that one, but probably a cheaper clone. When I had air I used a pneumatic one all the time. I'd probably use Hylomar on the case halves.
I were removing the primary gear on my M620, used a 2 legged puller, not a fancy one with hydraulics. Cooled the axel from the inside with a can of compressed air upside down. and heated the gear with a weedburner, wouldnt budge. Left if with the puller in tention buring the night, with some penetrating fluid sprayed on the gear. The next morning, i came out and swung a big hammer on it.... the gear flew 3 meters up in the air.
Hi Andy. I've pulled a couple of Desmoquattro primary gears... both needed the hydraulic puller, and both went off like a shotgun. Bit late to point this out now, but well worth protecting the end of the crankshaft. I once bought a 900SS crank which had been mushroomed over on that end, which meant it was impossible to sort out the oil feed into that end of the crankshaft. Hope yours is OK. If it's any comfort, I disassembled my 916 into individual components (much as you're doing) and it all went together again just fine eventually...and runs better & pulls harder than my 996! Carry on the good work.
Hey Andy just a thought . Check the clutch actuating rod bearing in the pressure plate. I have heard that they can freeze up and spin the rod which may cause issue in the clutch slave cylinder piston . Worth a look mate.
Great video! I like your slave cylinder theory. That makes a lot of sense to me. Now that you've made me feel bad about considering putting a for sale sign on mine I guess I'll pull the clutch cover off and have a look. Cheers!
Had a 1990 750 race bike that had raced for 10 years and I bought it for a track day tool. It ran with no timing belt covers and one day I came in from the track when it started raining and while sitting in the garage glancing at the bike I noticed that the timing belt pulley retaining nuts were all missing. Found one in the bottom of the fairing. The Woodruff keys had held them on. Don’t know why I hadn’t blown up the motor. That is why you are not supposed to reuse the locking nuts.🤓 this was the second time the bike had dropped bits on the track and since it was painted John Deer green it became “ The manure spreader” and the name stuck.
Heating and freezing engine parts is something i was not near as savvy about before an education in industrial mechanics and building heavy equipment implements. It's not a total solution where o rings are encountered. However i've learned that even a cigarette lighter can suffice in some situations.
I feel like brake fluid would be an adequate enough lubricant for the short time it would take before oil started getting to that bearing that it wouldn't cause a failure like that. Maybe if it was that like for many years and many many starts but even then I kind of tend to doubt it. Given that one section of the race is intact I'm inclined to say it was a manufacturing defect which caused the race material to break apart. If it was a lubrication issue I would think the damage would be consistent all the way around.
Hi Andy, let nobody tell you to not use the power ratchet, you know how to use it, if that thing ever breaks i want a new one the same day, it is awesome. like your video's.
Another possible contributing factor for the bearing failure could be lugging the engine in 2nd gear, which is the gear closest to that bearing. Some transmission failures are due to not spinning the transmission fast enough to spread the power pulses out over a greater area of gear teeth / bearing surface. It is usually really expensive to replace the primary drive gears with ones that have a longer/taller ratio to spin gearbox faster, unless the factory made a set on a different year model that you could retro fit to your engine. Cheaper option is to not open throttle too much at low rpm, loading up transmission. Wait until it is at least over 4000rpm before winding throttle open.
Great series, really enjoying it. Substituting crank case paper gasket with a glue, would that not require changing shim thickness on crank, input / output shafts as cases will come closer together ? In the previous episode when you put the screwdriver through the small end of conrod, that made me nervous, hopefully that didn’t harm the base gasket surface, conrod or overall crank alignment / balance ? I know from my 2-stroke days that technique was a no no . Keep up the great work
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions I don’t like the manual :-) My late brother who was a fitter and turner had a device he made which he referred to as the “Conrod Breaker”, it was a spark plug that had the electrode removed and a 50mm long pin pressed into it, this evil tool was inserted into cylinder head to assist with removal of crank and input / output start nuts.
I know this is an old video. I reckon corrosion has caused the case hardening to come off. The rust gets through the hard facing and metal fatigue does the rest.
Damn its just getting deeper and deeper in parts that need replacing,you sure made a whole ball of spaghetti now. Well on the positive side at least they can get replaced now instead of the original option of changing the cylinders and then finding a few months down the line you have another issue that needs fixing.
Clutch fluid theory might be stronger if you lost a lot of fluid. You’d notice the loss of fluid. Good idea to drill weeping hole in slave to prevent such penetration into case. My 84 Nighthawk has factory weeping hole for slave. My R1100S did not.
Cover your best eye ! ...I learned a new Aussie word, " Munckerd ? " ( not sure how you spell that ) anyhow, i see the picture, of the woman on the wall, is getting better looking , so thats good :)
Hi Andy great vids, haven't had much time to follow or comment recently. Can I add a few things - I don't know why they use those awful castle type nuts other than space around it but it looked as though they could have got a hex nut in there, I think I would be replacing it with a hex. I don't like using the small end on the conrod to lock things up as I'm sure you don't, I have done many times, when I do I use the gudgeon pin in the small end and put a slip of aluminium with a CS 10x20 through from front to back. I have used the sealant you mention and it's good but dammed expensive, three times the price for half the amount of Threebond 1215 I believe the Japs and Ducati use it, its silver/grey so can't be seen and doesn't harden, so easy to clean off. I think you have used it in the past? How I look at it if I can get a 71 Trident engine oil tight with Threebond it must be good, lol. Oh and a 61 5TA top end. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ducati-ThreeBond-TB1215-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket-Grey-Sealant-942470014/273535960556?hash=item3fb00385ec:g:j~MAAOSwPjNcdsJr www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIQUID-GASKET-1215-THREEBOND-250G-GREY-SEALANT-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-GEARBOX-SUMP/402057441972?epid=1023501129&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5d9c7db2b4:g:Cr4AAOSwfh1dg5wn&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qX2SjwoosqGS6P2WiZyfc5%2BN9zO%2BjB8Mv%2FnaB13VfNEQntzA%2FNolbChyVFjEDN7Ugp8nzVUD4xqfzvPt3wCykV84EUEXMruJB3VKa2ILUWZjpb2TPMR2fngiR2Qyt5NqoH51K8%2BC%2B7PZN%2FLFArutM5GkV%2F0Qi7nhes07VYLb4VMKDDWrrJ1OJqNVI%2BlOl7sIXfdM9pUp%2FmM7cRDi7OIWxuKwNKff%2BJQD5lx%2FcZFaDdMDn1ZtPwGp2FcEUfIewLsZHEHN3QieKK%2B4dVkY0Z1lXP%2F36DgCdzM%2BvG%2FfY0bIfwSlqMhDx0T%2F2vXIFU85ayDLdTOtrm7cbDNNrBdqy0gW3r1DxlF1eq%2Blhc7gq68LP33y6siiZkN5l1uNcy1I%2Br4kYMYVcvuE1cLiyB5ot4szZeXD%2BJ5uXu1hCjMHbQq9QG3IKwzCthlyCcK76y8ShHUsXKgaECqAqS3fnXC5s7VZdIuVQfe6YmNF%2BRL5fI04hY6DCkm5ThiSdapScFat4XIbXv2kU3fk0i11T6HHr93stGlgfmVQTzcN4O%2FsxlexSkSHhH2qGTu8Nl6voGweCwE18uS8LFcxLrT7d%2BTBnrrFmiZB9bSkqKQ6j1b1uBDtMphqMcTXbbFcM8%2BdGozEdrbLhIcKt8fx0EhdVvnXhl6vCZ40wh9UmYOYKGiAe0ceRqigtubmkV2iOeade%2B4MjRNzMmlLMD9m1hrGDFStGzrRC1r58M8zb44XNcGsACwB7jjiyGnj%2FmXfU%2F5uVmPxZE758w%3D&checksum=40205744197233f297b890284e5483cc3e8b31c88c1e&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qX2SjwoosqGS6P2WiZyfc5%2BN9zO%2BjB8Mv%2FnaB13VfNEQntzA%2FNolbChyVFjEDN7Ugp8nzVUD4xqfzvPt3wCykV84EUEXMruJB3VKa2ILUWZjpb2TPMR2fngiR2Qyt5NqoH51K8%2BC%2B7PZN%2FLFArutM5GkV%2F0Qi7nhes07VYLb4VMKDDWrrJ1OJqNVI%2BlOl7sIXfdM9pUp%2FmM7cRDi7OIWxuKwNKff%2BJQD5lx%2FcZFaDdMDn1ZtPwGp2FcEUfIewLsZHEHN3QieKK%2B4dVkY0Z1lXP%2F36DgCdzM%2BvG%2FfY0bIfwSlqMhDx0T%2F2vXIFU85ayDLdTOtrm7cbDNNrBdqy0gW3r1DxlF1eq%2Blhc7gq68LP33y6siiZkN5l1uNcy1I%2Br4kYMYVcvuE1cLiyB5ot4szZeXD%2BJ5uXu1hCjMHbQq9QG3IKwzCthlyCcK76y8ShHUsXKgaECqAqS3fnXC5s7VZdIuVQfe6YmNF%2BRL5fI04hY6DCkm5ThiSdapScFat4XIbXv2kU3fk0i11T6HHr93stGlgfmVQTzcN4O%2FsxlexSkSHhH2qGTu8Nl6voGweCwE18uS8LFcxLrT7d%2BTBnrrFmiZB9bSkqKQ6j1b1uBDtMphqMcTXbbFcM8%2BdGozEdrbLhIcKt8fx0EhdVvnXhl6vCZ40wh9UmYOYKGiAe0ceRqigtubmkV2iOeade%2B4MjRNzMmlLMD9m1hrGDFStGzrRC1r58M8zb44XNcGsACwB7jjiyGnj%2FmXfU%2F5uVmPxZE758w%3D&checksum=40205744197233f297b890284e5483cc3e8b31c88c1e I haven't used this one yet but sounds good. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THREEBOND-1104NEO-PLUS-LIQUID-GASKET-MAKER-SEALANT-100g-GREY-SYNTHETIC-ORIGINAL/402058784850?epid=11017759015&hash=item5d9c923052:g:3bYAAOSwVR9dvsyg Anything I have stated above is how I do it and not how I recommend you or anyone else to do it, as I am also an Idiot. It seems to be the thing to say these days. lol.
Jesus that g/box inner race was shot to pieces! Almost like a factory hardness fault. Or no oil. Those layshaft (input) brgs look quite small for their design/application too, but obviously not a widely reported problem, so a Friday afternoon build at the factory? Still want me an air cooled 2V Monster. Nothing put me off so far...
Hi Andy, I'm just finishing a rebuild on a ds1000 engine it had bearing and gear damage from humidity and engine not being turned for years, just a possible cause not mentioned.
nothing wrong with rattly guns on the way down ,,, different story on the way up again though ,, been looking forwards to seeing inside look on the bright side , ,its on the way up again soon , and then you will know exactly what you have ,.
there's no pressurised oil supply to that bearing. there is an oil well in the cases and alt cover above it that runs oil into it. i can't see how it would have anything to do with the clutch slave at all. a leaking seal runs clutch fluid out at the bottom, not down the shaft. it failed, it happens. i don't think i've ever seen one like that before. i always use genuine main bearings. the crank shim damage is not unusual either.
I was intending on buying the main bearings through SKF, would they be any different to what they supplied Ducati? The SKF data looks identical Suffix B 40 degree angular contact, PA66 glass fiber reinforced cage, preload calculation factor X
@@ANDY5 i use genuine mains out of professional paranoia. jhp make the genuine afaik, used to anyway, and the angles were different i think, or there were a couple of versions of it? not sure now, but i use genuine because i don't want to have to pull one out and apart again if it's wrong. you can usually get all the others locally via skf with the plastic cages, but from memory last time i did one some of the genuine were cheaper. think. mbbs.
Hey Andy, awesome video man, had me holding my breath a few times tho lol. Only thing I was unclear on was how you stopped everything turning when you were hammering the belt drive gear nut off. And when you had the screwdriver through the rod were you apprehensive to hit the nut hard enough, is it not recommended to put anything through the rod to stop the rotation? Cheers 👍👊
G’day Dave, yes but the key word is IF. I’ve looked at it a little closer and I don’t think it can get in there. There’s two o-rings on the actuator shaft that would stop it in it’s tracks before it can enter the crankcase 😕
I don't think that's hydraulic fluid that's done the damage to the bearing the wear on it is not uniform enough, I would say that's a quality issue with the coating/hardening on that bearing. Thanks for putting me off Ducati's though mate.
Good work there Andy, it must be nerve wracking having the experts peering over your shoulder as it were. Them Hydraulic pullers are much better than acme screw type pullers in some respects as it's much easier to apply the amount of pressure/force necessary, although it is difficult to judge how much force is actually being applied. Due to this they should always be used with caution and eye protection should always be worn as you did in this video. If I can give an example;- I was pulling a stuck inner race from a gear shaft using a hydraulic puller and had the puller wound up to what I thought was verging on excessive, I then gave it a few clouts with a hammer in an attempt to shock the bearing race off the shaft when a part of the race chipped off and whizzed past me at an incredible speed, the hardened steel shrapnel missed me and embedded itself in a fence about 4 meters away (it wasn't that large or heavy either !!).... I would liken the sound it made as it whizzed past me to that of a bullet in flight, I was not wearing any eye protection and would say that I would have sustained severe eye damage if not lost an eye if it had made contact.... Not directing this to you Andy, just pointing out to anyone reading that caution and common sense be used when using tools like these. xxx Keep up the good work mate and don't rush thing's, You'll get the job done when you get the job done. ATB.
Nahhhh! Not buying the hydraulic oil theory. I bet that race had a flaw in it from day one or factory missed a metal chip that went through it. Very good find though, so glad it was not a chewed up shaft.
I am wondering if it is really necessary to replace the crank bearings on bike with only 20k kms? I am about to put my 620 engine back together after having the case welded up ( yes the kick stand mount boss, grr) and I was fully intending to leave those alone, just replacing 0rings and seals. Bad idea?
I was having a break during filming of the next video when I saw this comment, you’ll notice that I mention it. As long as the crank and bearings are not damaged and your oil clearances are in spec then no. But depending on the bike it’s not that expensive to replace them and have that peace of mind.
I had a primary side crank bearing on my Bevel fail many years ago. Thing is, it was just a single ball that ended up looking like a rolled up ball of snot that just rattled its way around there. The rest of the balls, altho were in distress, along with the races, were more or less undamaged. Just the single ball failed. A manufacturing fault surely. So, it doesnt really surprise me that a bearing race has simply given up. Final grinding, heat treatment, and plenty of other reasons it might have given up. I dont buy brake fluid causing any grief at all. Ball and roller bearings roll, they dont slide. They roll! The only sliding action in there is the ball/roller separator and that only has to deal with the weight of a single ball anywhere in its construction. Cam belt idlers and automotive alternator bearings come to mind Wizzing away for thousands of hours living on nothing but a smear of grease to keep them alive! I believe that youre just unlucky Andy
Yes I thought about it a little more and clutch fluid can’t get to that bearing, the two o-rings on the actuator shaft would stop it in it’s tracks. Crib death I reckon. All other bearings are perfectly fine. I’m debating whether or not to replace all of them, over $250 for new ones 😕
@@ANDY5 The mains alone are close to $400.00 in my neck of the woods. I had the right side countershaft bearing in my 750-F1 fail- cage broke. With the singles, I replace all the bearings any time I split the cases. Cheaper than going in again. I lock the crank by putting the wrist (gudgeon) pin in the rod, and placing 2 wooden blocks across the hole. Yes! those pulley nuts always seem to be way tighter than they should be, I've broken a tooth off the factory tool trying to undo them. You should have stuck with your modified socket, would have saved the nut. Generally great work, though. Thoroughly enjoying this, and you're doing great for the 1st time in one.
Properly put me off Ducati. Love watching this though, great to see different engines. Maybe The Workshop could help out with a bit of failure analysis.
Love your energy and commitment, some comedy gold in there. Keep up the good work
Always leave the nut on a couple of turns when pulling off a taper. This prevents the problem of flying gears/flywheels. Also you could have heated up the gear with a heat gun possibly making it easier to get off.
Yes, a bit of a facepalm moment. I under estimated the reactive force from the gear puller and it’s something that I should have instinctively done.
@@ANDY5 Its a good tip to follow but if we could remember to use every tip trick and workshop practice most of know about but forget we would-be geniuses, and as my old man used to say the man who hasn't made a mistake hasn't made anything until I made the mistake that is and all hell let loose.
Wow this is so valuable. Im a hobby mechanic but was just to scared to open my cases up and service/check them. Seeing this helps me out massively and takes the scary bit away ;)!
Andy, great series as always. Not sure about using silicon as a case sealer because the silicon squeezed out inside your cases can, and often does, come loose and can end up sticking in oil passages and the like. The commonly used case sealer is threebond. It is more of a mastic product that doesn't cause internal dramas. You may have heard of it through the various manufacturer variants: Hindabond, Yamabond, Suzukibond and, believe it or not, Ducatibond. Just something to consider.
Also, in regards to removing your cam pulley, lactate was probably the culprit and some heat may have helped in the area. Heat may also have helped with the tapered gear.
BTW, I'm also a backyard mechanic. Trying to restore 2 MGBs, 2 1984 Honda VF1000s and a 1973 Honda SL100 plus keep a 93 750SS and a 97 Monster 750 on the road.
Yes, Threebond is what I’m using. You have lots of toys to keep you busy, nice 👍
Nice work, Andy. While you're in there, I'd recommend you also change the gearchange lever return spring and fork return spring. It's not uncommon for them to break. One of mine went at only 16k and, as they're only a few dollars, I think it's a worthwhile precaution.Should be a real sweet runner when it's back together.
Ohh Andy, all too familiar with the flying primary gear! My god, so many times I still think how on this earth did it miss me! Love your enthusiasm, energy, wit & wisdom! Brad knows his stuff because I’ve known him a while. I’m glad you’ve decided to replace the bearings as par for course. You’ll know it’s done right, precise & methodological. As a mate told me... just remember, someone at the factory assembled the engine faster & with less care, so take your time & do it your way! Thanks for your content! Keep it up & enjoy it!🥇💯👍
We used to use a 2 jaw puller on the primary gear, we would load it up and go home for the night. most times we would come in the next day and the gear and puller would be on the floor. Yes this was at the dealership...lol
While you are there change the output bearing and check rod bearings. Also change the output seal and layshaft seal. Given the fretting on the bearing you should closely inspect the mains as well.
Turn down that flywheel to 2lbs as fell for some fun.
New bearings all ‘round while I’m in there mate 👍
Hey rider !! When the crank bearing failed on my 1991. Because of the 194.000 miles , 6th gear was a bit of a singer . I had a friend that did LOTS of Ebay parts stuff . he found me a complete transmission to drop in for ONLY 175 BUCKS !!!😎😎😎😎😎🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
Enjoyed the latest in your ongoing Ducati series. Good to see you didn't find anything else wrong inside the engine. You never know what you'll find.
Wow. It was like watching a horror movie. Didn’t want to watch but couldn’t look away.
It opened the scars left on me when I split my Suzuki 500 twin two stroke back in my pimply youth using a few open ended spanners.
And that wasn’t in the same league as the Duc. Very impressed. But glad I’m not the one paying for the parts 🥵
You're a braver man than me. All those chocolate gaskets and spaghetti o-rings to re-assemble. She'll be a good un once you're done. A keeper for sure.
My 1991 had drama with a bad crank bearing years ago. Your video brought back memories !!!! My bike only had 195.000 miles when it failed , beats me why ??? 😄😄😄😄😄😄😎😎😎😎😎🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
The open heart surgery is progressing well Andy, looks like the patient will make a full recovery. Very informative video .
Really enjoying these vids although I'm losing sleep worrying. I love your attitude to confronting the issues and getting it fixed. Lots of people out here willing you on.
That flying off, had me stoking a 30year old wound🙊had my mk1 cortina steering wheel fly off and split my lip, learn quickly and only undo bolt a few turns😂very brave and expensive, I recon them Italian bit will be. 🤓
Hats off to you for undertaking this job. Way beyond my pay grade.
Now I know enough to farm out a rebuild if mine ever needs it.
Good luck.
Woozers! That was some pressure on that shaft! Reminds me of the not following the old rule of leaving the nut on when removing a car steering wheel! Your a brave guy 👍🏻
Love the SloMo of the release Andy...fortunate your Nuts weren't in the line of Fire or your be needing the Puller to get them back down from behind your Ear Lobes...Super Series, can't wait for the next Episode...👍🏼😎
Look forward to your clear, understandable, vids, as they say in Scotland, cheers mate.
A very informative and honest video. Some of the real problems that can exist when you rebuild your engine, that are often edited out! Well done, matey.
Great to watch as ever Andy.
Andy Love the Channel mate, The Bearing pitting looks like a Ducati quality control issue, Like rocker arms, crankshaft oil plugs that wind out and generators that undo themselves just to mention three! Thanks for sharing.
Not a Ducati QC issue, but definitely a SKF QC issue.
Excellent video again Andy. Hopefully now you have pulled the engine down and identified all the parts etc that need replacing, the engine will go back together and possibly give you a non-oil burning experience from then on!! Remember it's a Ducati and I did say POSSIBLY give you a great non-oil burn and leak free life after all the work is done and the information being passed onto you is no doubt putting your mind at rest that all will be done as per those who have been there, done that and learnt from their work on these bikes.
Awesome as always Andy. Wow 'hoolie doolie' for sure - the power of stiction, tappy tapity tap BANG!! Like a gun. Glad you were standing to the side of the load, good man. Keep on truck'in Andy, you're the salt of the earth.
Hi Andy, we can all appreciate your apprehension about expecting possible criticism or tut-tutting from trained Ducati factory guys, but for me, as an enthusiastic amateur, I watch you and this channel because I trust your instincts. And you honed those instincts over a life-time of working on bikes, sometimes learning the hard way and sometimes from the mistakes of your workmates. Andy, keep swingin' those spanners. I'll keep watching and learning.
I don't know which was scarier the pressure needed to release that gear or the Spooky girl in the picture watching ya work....
Hehe, that primary is a real beast, did the same thing first time i took one off, parts all over the workshop floor..
Fair play to you Andy getting in deep with the motor. The 2 legged puller stunt was awesome too.
These Ducati engines look quite simple compared to some Japanese engines. Makes you wonder why they charge so much to service them. Great job Andy - watching this series is educational and entertaining
take care when you don't use a gasket, some times the gasket acts like a shim and if you don't use it things can get tight
It does require reshimming but it would need it anyway. Genuine gaskets are no longer available and all aftermarket are a different thickness.
Andy your easy to watch very good video,
Hang on, just got to grab a beer......
that's better - let the fun begin.
brilliant series Andy..informative and well produced ...I subscribe and once upon a time I pulled the rocker cover off my Testastretta...that primary gear shooting off the crankshaft was a walk in the park compared to "Pandora's box" up top...love ya work
Interesting rebuild Andy, I've never seen the inside of a Duc. Thanks for the video, cheers, Doug
Very interesting rebuild Andy and yes I have subscribed whilst you were doing the 1100.
Wow when that gear flew off it really did fly! I bet you thought "shit that's f.....d it!"
G'Day mate. Im a new subscriber and fellow content producer (in no way am I on your skill level.)
But I'd just wanna say how much I'm loving the journey you are taking me on.
Ps My tool envy is at a peak when the Big Red Milwaukee power driver comes out. How can anyone not like that bit of kit.
Keep up the great content.
Be safe. Be Happy.
A thoroughly engaging watch there Andy, as ever. The Ducati bods sure liked to stick a woodruff key on a shaft back then! 😄
Lovin watching this Andy thank god for video & pictures to aid reassemble.
Bleeding jeeezuz. When that gear gave up the tug of war it let you have it. I’m still here and I’m lost. Lol. Your in the guts and organs of that motor,I’d be Jack the Ripper on in there. Good video Andy.
make sure the screw in the little pin the starter idler gear runs on is tight. also watch the flat shim behind the flywheel assembly when you put it back together. that's a real pita.
you can make an engine stand that holds the rh cases - you make 3 posts with pins to go into the 3 mount holes, and a little support to hold up at the oil filter bit, if that makes sense. drill 4 holes in your bench and bolt them in. makes it much easier.
you can put the alt cover back on and use the alt cover tool you made to pull the lh case off the rh case, pushing against the crank
.
Thanks mate
If you go down the path of all new bearings, you may want to do another mod that wont cost much. On these engines the pistons have an oil jet under them for cooling. BUT, the rear only gets it for 180deg because its blocked by the crank wheel. On later engines Ducati fixed this. You can fix it by extending the oil galley to the other side of the where it'll reach under piston for 360deg. I first saw it on Ducati Kamna in Germany web page. If your interested, I can send info...
Be interested to see this...
I think your theory about the brake fluid getting in the bearings is a good one and that would for sure turn the bearing into cheese but on the downside its turning into a costly rebuild ,, good luck with it these are great video's
Doesn’t the clutch pushrod pass through a rubber seal ? Not sure how a leaking clutch slave on the outside of engine could have the clutch fluid get inside the engine and attack the bearing on the inside ?
The rod seals with two orings. My have baked theory was that the fluid could reach the bearing, but it would need to get past the orings first. Possible, but highly unlikely. Crib death seems to be the most likely hypothesis.
First two minute intro, very humble, very honest and very appreciated Andy. Always awkward pulling a different motor apart the very first time. Keep up the good work, regards,
I’m happy to report I finally got my oil strainer loose. It was in tough shape from the previous owner. I couldn’t get a socket or wrench to grab it. A couple of small flecks but much cleaner than yours. I’m hopeful. Now for the clutch inspection... FYI..A BMW mechanic friend of mine gave me some advice on grabbing bad fasteners like my strainer. Put some valve lapping compound on it. It fills in some of the void. Worked great!
Good job
Way above my head, but I love watching you work!.....That sounds fukn creepy!😳😀🍻
At last! You're hitting it with a hammer - that's my kind of mechanical work 😁 Good stuff, Andy. You're much better at this than most of us.
Thanks, Andy as usual informative and enjoyable.
What genuinely nice guy you are, i like your style and your vids are very informative. Can't wait for the next installment.
Another great vid, thanks. But yeah, I was nervous for you before you mentioned all the eyes watching you. Lol.
Hi Andy looks like a bad case of Brunneling on the inner race. To me .Thanks for a great series .
Bikeboy has a good article on retarding the ignition, because of the bigger bore and compression increase, easy mod to do while your in there! Like you said, he's a great Ducati resource....... your doing well bro!
As well as taking a photo of the ignition pickup a quick spray with any handy rattle can paint would have left you an image of exactly where the nut and washer were located and thus the pickup.
I like your relaxed presentation style 👍. I was waiting for that bang though 😁 done a few of them. Never seen that bearing go though. Will be interested to see what preload you put on the mains 👍.
Hi Andy, if Im joining any metal to metal surfaces without gasket I use a sealant called wellseal, it was made for rolls royce back in the 30s, rolls was the first engine manufacture to mate metal to metal without a paper gasket, I was told it was to make the repair of aircraft in the field of war without the need for delicate paper gaskets. Ron from the uk
Holy close shaves Batman, the Joker nearly had you that time !!!
as peter says, leave the nut on. you need to be careful to not mark the end of the crank too - it does go into a seal (that is meant to be fitted the "wrong" way) and is the oil path into the big ends. if you do remove the pick up connectors, you need to make sure the terminals go back in the same place. swap the terminals side to side and it won't advance or maybe not even fire on that cylinder.
I think I was lucky, I don’t see any damage to the shaft.
Hi Andy ! Very good job (except for the primary gear extraction without the nut in place !! I was frightened...). Fortunatly everything ending well
I agree with Chris commentary :
When you will reassemble your engine beware of prestressing of the bearings. Its very very important on a Ducati motor.
The diiferents shims are calculated for that. You will have to recalculate precilsely presterssing BEFORE reassembling the engine with a special tool (comparateur in french comparator in english?). You will probably have to change evry shims.
top man andy, if my hips wernt goosed, id have another tomorrow, great vid's pal.
Having had a repetitive motion injury, I'm a big fan of using power tools whenever possible. Really want to pick up a battery powered ratchet similar to that one, but probably a cheaper clone. When I had air I used a pneumatic one all the time.
I'd probably use Hylomar on the case halves.
I were removing the primary gear on my M620, used a 2 legged puller, not a fancy one with hydraulics. Cooled the axel from the inside with a can of compressed air upside down. and heated the gear with a weedburner, wouldnt budge.
Left if with the puller in tention buring the night, with some penetrating fluid sprayed on the gear.
The next morning, i came out and swung a big hammer on it.... the gear flew 3 meters up in the air.
Hi Andy. I've pulled a couple of Desmoquattro primary gears... both needed the hydraulic puller, and both went off like a shotgun. Bit late to point this out now, but well worth protecting the end of the crankshaft. I once bought a 900SS crank which had been mushroomed over on that end, which meant it was impossible to sort out the oil feed into that end of the crankshaft. Hope yours is OK. If it's any comfort, I disassembled my 916 into individual components (much as you're doing) and it all went together again just fine eventually...and runs better & pulls harder than my 996! Carry on the good work.
I think I was lucky enough to get away with out mushrooming the shaft. Phew 😅
Hey Andy just a thought . Check the clutch actuating rod bearing in the pressure plate. I have heard that they can freeze up and spin the rod which may cause issue in the clutch slave cylinder piston . Worth a look mate.
It’s fine
Loving this series, keep it up👍 Brad's a champ too!
Never seen a gear fly off like that before...cool to watch. Mental note for self...leave nut on if attempting something like that :)
rsm8
😜👍 cant wait to see the reassembling of this Bike m8
Great video! I like your slave cylinder theory. That makes a lot of sense to me. Now that you've made me feel bad about considering putting a for sale sign on mine I guess I'll pull the clutch cover off and have a look. Cheers!
Had a 1990 750 race bike that had raced for 10 years and I bought it for a track day tool. It ran with no timing belt covers and one day I came in from the track when it started raining and while sitting in the garage glancing at the bike I noticed that the timing belt pulley retaining nuts were all missing. Found one in the bottom of the fairing. The Woodruff keys had held them on. Don’t know why I hadn’t blown up the motor. That is why you are not supposed to reuse the locking nuts.🤓 this was the second time the bike had dropped bits on the track and since it was painted John Deer green it became “ The manure spreader” and the name stuck.
Heating and freezing engine parts is something i was not near as savvy about before an education in industrial mechanics and building heavy equipment implements. It's not a total solution where o rings are encountered. However i've learned that even a cigarette lighter can suffice in some situations.
I feel like brake fluid would be an adequate enough lubricant for the short time it would take before oil started getting to that bearing that it wouldn't cause a failure like that. Maybe if it was that like for many years and many many starts but even then I kind of tend to doubt it.
Given that one section of the race is intact I'm inclined to say it was a manufacturing defect which caused the race material to break apart. If it was a lubrication issue I would think the damage would be consistent all the way around.
Hi Andy, let nobody tell you to not use the power ratchet, you know how to use it, if that thing ever breaks i want a new one the same day, it is awesome. like your video's.
Another possible contributing factor for the bearing failure could be lugging the engine in 2nd gear, which is the gear closest to that bearing. Some transmission failures are due to not spinning the transmission fast enough to spread the power pulses out over a greater area of gear teeth / bearing surface. It is usually really expensive to replace the primary drive gears with ones that have a longer/taller ratio to spin gearbox faster, unless the factory made a set on a different year model that you could retro fit to your engine. Cheaper option is to not open throttle too much at low rpm, loading up transmission. Wait until it is at least over 4000rpm before winding throttle open.
Great series, really enjoying it. Substituting crank case paper gasket with a glue, would that not require changing shim thickness on crank, input / output shafts as cases will come closer together ? In the previous episode when you put the screwdriver through the small end of conrod, that made me nervous, hopefully that didn’t harm the base gasket surface, conrod or overall crank alignment / balance ? I know from my 2-stroke days that technique was a no no . Keep up the great work
Yes it will require reshimming, but would require that with new paper gaskets anyway. The rod through the small end is actually in the manual
Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions I don’t like the manual :-) My late brother who was a fitter and turner had a device he made which he referred to as the “Conrod Breaker”, it was a spark plug that had the electrode removed and a 50mm long pin pressed into it, this evil tool was inserted into cylinder head to assist with removal of crank and input / output start nuts.
I know this is an old video. I reckon corrosion has caused the case hardening to come off. The rust gets through the hard facing and metal fatigue does the rest.
Damn its just getting deeper and deeper in parts that need replacing,you sure made a whole ball of spaghetti now. Well on the positive side at least they can get replaced now instead of the original option of changing the cylinders and then finding a few months down the line you have another issue that needs fixing.
Clutch fluid theory might be stronger if you lost a lot of fluid. You’d notice the loss of fluid. Good idea to drill weeping hole in slave to prevent such penetration into case. My 84 Nighthawk has factory weeping hole for slave. My R1100S did not.
Cover your best eye ! ...I learned a new Aussie word, " Munckerd ? " ( not sure how you spell that ) anyhow, i see the picture, of the woman on the wall, is getting better looking , so thats good :)
replace the rod bolts if you replace the big end shells.
Hi Andy great vids, haven't had much time to follow or comment recently. Can I add a few things - I don't know why they use those awful castle type nuts other than space around it but it looked as though they could have got a hex nut in there, I think I would be replacing it with a hex.
I don't like using the small end on the conrod to lock things up as I'm sure you don't, I have done many times, when I do I use the gudgeon pin in the small end and put a slip of aluminium with a CS 10x20 through from front to back.
I have used the sealant you mention and it's good but dammed expensive, three times the price for half the amount of Threebond 1215 I believe the Japs and Ducati use it, its silver/grey so can't be seen and doesn't harden, so easy to clean off. I think you have used it in the past?
How I look at it if I can get a 71 Trident engine oil tight with Threebond it must be good, lol. Oh and a 61 5TA top end.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ducati-ThreeBond-TB1215-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket-Grey-Sealant-942470014/273535960556?hash=item3fb00385ec:g:j~MAAOSwPjNcdsJr
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIQUID-GASKET-1215-THREEBOND-250G-GREY-SEALANT-ENGINE-TRANSMISSION-GEARBOX-SUMP/402057441972?epid=1023501129&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5d9c7db2b4:g:Cr4AAOSwfh1dg5wn&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qX2SjwoosqGS6P2WiZyfc5%2BN9zO%2BjB8Mv%2FnaB13VfNEQntzA%2FNolbChyVFjEDN7Ugp8nzVUD4xqfzvPt3wCykV84EUEXMruJB3VKa2ILUWZjpb2TPMR2fngiR2Qyt5NqoH51K8%2BC%2B7PZN%2FLFArutM5GkV%2F0Qi7nhes07VYLb4VMKDDWrrJ1OJqNVI%2BlOl7sIXfdM9pUp%2FmM7cRDi7OIWxuKwNKff%2BJQD5lx%2FcZFaDdMDn1ZtPwGp2FcEUfIewLsZHEHN3QieKK%2B4dVkY0Z1lXP%2F36DgCdzM%2BvG%2FfY0bIfwSlqMhDx0T%2F2vXIFU85ayDLdTOtrm7cbDNNrBdqy0gW3r1DxlF1eq%2Blhc7gq68LP33y6siiZkN5l1uNcy1I%2Br4kYMYVcvuE1cLiyB5ot4szZeXD%2BJ5uXu1hCjMHbQq9QG3IKwzCthlyCcK76y8ShHUsXKgaECqAqS3fnXC5s7VZdIuVQfe6YmNF%2BRL5fI04hY6DCkm5ThiSdapScFat4XIbXv2kU3fk0i11T6HHr93stGlgfmVQTzcN4O%2FsxlexSkSHhH2qGTu8Nl6voGweCwE18uS8LFcxLrT7d%2BTBnrrFmiZB9bSkqKQ6j1b1uBDtMphqMcTXbbFcM8%2BdGozEdrbLhIcKt8fx0EhdVvnXhl6vCZ40wh9UmYOYKGiAe0ceRqigtubmkV2iOeade%2B4MjRNzMmlLMD9m1hrGDFStGzrRC1r58M8zb44XNcGsACwB7jjiyGnj%2FmXfU%2F5uVmPxZE758w%3D&checksum=40205744197233f297b890284e5483cc3e8b31c88c1e&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qX2SjwoosqGS6P2WiZyfc5%2BN9zO%2BjB8Mv%2FnaB13VfNEQntzA%2FNolbChyVFjEDN7Ugp8nzVUD4xqfzvPt3wCykV84EUEXMruJB3VKa2ILUWZjpb2TPMR2fngiR2Qyt5NqoH51K8%2BC%2B7PZN%2FLFArutM5GkV%2F0Qi7nhes07VYLb4VMKDDWrrJ1OJqNVI%2BlOl7sIXfdM9pUp%2FmM7cRDi7OIWxuKwNKff%2BJQD5lx%2FcZFaDdMDn1ZtPwGp2FcEUfIewLsZHEHN3QieKK%2B4dVkY0Z1lXP%2F36DgCdzM%2BvG%2FfY0bIfwSlqMhDx0T%2F2vXIFU85ayDLdTOtrm7cbDNNrBdqy0gW3r1DxlF1eq%2Blhc7gq68LP33y6siiZkN5l1uNcy1I%2Br4kYMYVcvuE1cLiyB5ot4szZeXD%2BJ5uXu1hCjMHbQq9QG3IKwzCthlyCcK76y8ShHUsXKgaECqAqS3fnXC5s7VZdIuVQfe6YmNF%2BRL5fI04hY6DCkm5ThiSdapScFat4XIbXv2kU3fk0i11T6HHr93stGlgfmVQTzcN4O%2FsxlexSkSHhH2qGTu8Nl6voGweCwE18uS8LFcxLrT7d%2BTBnrrFmiZB9bSkqKQ6j1b1uBDtMphqMcTXbbFcM8%2BdGozEdrbLhIcKt8fx0EhdVvnXhl6vCZ40wh9UmYOYKGiAe0ceRqigtubmkV2iOeade%2B4MjRNzMmlLMD9m1hrGDFStGzrRC1r58M8zb44XNcGsACwB7jjiyGnj%2FmXfU%2F5uVmPxZE758w%3D&checksum=40205744197233f297b890284e5483cc3e8b31c88c1e
I haven't used this one yet but sounds good.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THREEBOND-1104NEO-PLUS-LIQUID-GASKET-MAKER-SEALANT-100g-GREY-SYNTHETIC-ORIGINAL/402058784850?epid=11017759015&hash=item5d9c923052:g:3bYAAOSwVR9dvsyg
Anything I have stated above is how I do it and not how I recommend you or anyone else to do it, as I am also an Idiot. It seems to be the thing to say these days. lol.
G’day mate, I’ll be using Threebond, already made my mind up.
Thanks Andy another great vid. 10.34 😱
Cha-Ching ,, better you than me
Jesus that g/box inner race was shot to pieces! Almost like a factory hardness fault. Or no oil. Those layshaft (input) brgs look quite small for their design/application too, but obviously not a widely reported problem, so a Friday afternoon build at the factory?
Still want me an air cooled 2V Monster. Nothing put me off so far...
Hi Andy, I'm just finishing a rebuild on a ds1000 engine it had bearing and gear damage from humidity and engine not being turned for years, just a possible cause not mentioned.
nothing wrong with rattly guns on the way down ,,, different story on the way up again though ,, been looking forwards to seeing inside
look on the bright side , ,its on the way up again soon , and then you will know exactly what you have ,.
there's no pressurised oil supply to that bearing. there is an oil well in the cases and alt cover above it that runs oil into it. i can't see how it would have anything to do with the clutch slave at all. a leaking seal runs clutch fluid out at the bottom, not down the shaft. it failed, it happens. i don't think i've ever seen one like that before. i always use genuine main bearings. the crank shim damage is not unusual either.
I was intending on buying the main bearings through SKF, would they be any different to what they supplied Ducati? The SKF data looks identical Suffix B 40 degree angular contact, PA66 glass fiber reinforced cage, preload calculation factor X
@@ANDY5 i use genuine mains out of professional paranoia. jhp make the genuine afaik, used to anyway, and the angles were different i think, or there were a couple of versions of it? not sure now, but i use genuine because i don't want to have to pull one out and apart again if it's wrong. you can usually get all the others locally via skf with the plastic cages, but from memory last time i did one some of the genuine were cheaper. think. mbbs.
Hey Andy, awesome video man, had me holding my breath a few times tho lol. Only thing I was unclear on was how you stopped everything turning when you were hammering the belt drive gear nut off. And when you had the screwdriver through the rod were you apprehensive to hit the nut hard enough, is it not recommended to put anything through the rod to stop the rotation? Cheers 👍👊
I didn’t use anything to prevent rotation, just the natural friction of the internal components. Just impact in the end was enough.
If brake fluid could get in there that would wash out the lube and advance corrosion and pitting of the bearing surface.
G’day Dave, yes but the key word is IF. I’ve looked at it a little closer and I don’t think it can get in there. There’s two o-rings on the actuator shaft that would stop it in it’s tracks before it can enter the crankcase 😕
@@ANDY5 remeber they DUCATI gaskets lol not Ducatis new high thec ones
@@ANDY5
If the seals look ok then that probably rules that out.
Great series mate keep the videos coming oh and one more thing in the uk it’s witches piss crack on
Great stuff like always. Could I ask a favor though? Could you clean your lens? Thanks.
I generally wipe them off regularly but when you’re handling three GoPros with oily hands inevitably you have issues.
"Munted"? haven't heard that used to describe a bearing before. Technical term? Check out Wellseal as a case sealer.
Andy bearings go what make are they did you check? Probally poor quality in those days DUCATI used alot od junk !
SKF, made in Germany
@@ANDY5 WELL CANT GO WRONG ON THAT END MMMMMM??? GREAT VEDIOS !
I don't think that's hydraulic fluid that's done the damage to the bearing the wear on it is not uniform enough, I would say that's a quality issue with the coating/hardening on that bearing. Thanks for putting me off Ducati's though mate.
It’s looking like a SKF issue, not a Ducati one.
Good work there Andy, it must be nerve wracking having the experts peering over your shoulder as it were.
Them Hydraulic pullers are much better than acme screw type pullers in some respects as it's much easier to apply the amount of pressure/force necessary, although it is difficult to judge how much force is actually being applied.
Due to this they should always be used with caution and eye protection should always be worn as you did in this video.
If I can give an example;- I was pulling a stuck inner race from a gear shaft using a hydraulic puller and had the puller wound up to what I thought was verging on excessive, I then gave it a few clouts with a hammer in an attempt to shock the bearing race off the shaft when a part of the race chipped off and whizzed past me at an incredible speed, the hardened steel shrapnel missed me and embedded itself in a fence about 4 meters away (it wasn't that large or heavy either !!).... I would liken the sound it made as it whizzed past me to that of a bullet in flight, I was not wearing any eye protection and would say that I would have sustained severe eye damage if not lost an eye if it had made contact....
Not directing this to you Andy, just pointing out to anyone reading that caution and common sense be used when using tools like these. xxx
Keep up the good work mate and don't rush thing's, You'll get the job done when you get the job done. ATB.
Can the starter bolts be accessed through the holes in the starter gear?
Nahhhh! Not buying the hydraulic oil theory. I bet that race had a flaw in it from day one or factory missed a metal chip that went through it. Very good find though, so glad it was not a chewed up shaft.
I am wondering if it is really necessary to replace the crank bearings on bike with only 20k kms? I am about to put my 620 engine back together after having the case welded up ( yes the kick stand mount boss, grr) and I was fully intending to leave those alone, just replacing 0rings and seals. Bad idea?
I was having a break during filming of the next video when I saw this comment, you’ll notice that I mention it.
As long as the crank and bearings are not damaged and your oil clearances are in spec then no.
But depending on the bike it’s not that expensive to replace them and have that peace of mind.
I had a primary side crank bearing on my Bevel fail many years ago.
Thing is, it was just a single ball that ended up looking like a rolled up ball of snot that just rattled its way around there.
The rest of the balls, altho were in distress, along with the races, were more or less undamaged. Just the single ball failed.
A manufacturing fault surely.
So, it doesnt really surprise me that a bearing race has simply given up.
Final grinding, heat treatment, and plenty of other reasons it might have given up. I dont buy brake fluid causing any grief at all.
Ball and roller bearings roll, they dont slide. They roll!
The only sliding action in there is the ball/roller separator and that only has to deal with the weight of a single ball anywhere in its construction. Cam belt idlers and automotive alternator bearings come to mind Wizzing away for thousands of hours living on nothing but a smear of grease to keep them alive!
I believe that youre just unlucky Andy
Yes I thought about it a little more and clutch fluid can’t get to that bearing, the two o-rings on the actuator shaft would stop it in it’s tracks. Crib death I reckon. All other bearings are perfectly fine. I’m debating whether or not to replace all of them, over $250 for new ones 😕
@@ANDY5 How deep down the rabbit hole do you go......?
@@ANDY5 Yep do them and you will know whats in there. Hell of a lot of work to be wondering later if you have done the right thing.
@@ANDY5 The mains alone are close to $400.00 in my neck of the woods. I had the right side countershaft bearing in my 750-F1 fail- cage broke. With the singles, I replace all the bearings any time I split the cases. Cheaper than going in again.
I lock the crank by putting the wrist (gudgeon) pin in the rod, and placing 2 wooden blocks across the hole. Yes! those pulley nuts always seem to be way tighter than they should be, I've broken a tooth off the factory tool trying to undo them. You should have stuck with your modified socket, would have saved the nut.
Generally great work, though. Thoroughly enjoying this, and you're doing great for the 1st time in one.
Properly put me off Ducati. Love watching this though, great to see different engines. Maybe The Workshop could help out with a bit of failure analysis.
One day I will disassemble a motorcycle engine that runs right when it goes back together. One day.
Nothing to do with the duc but who's the girl in the photo on the wall? I'm also a photographer and I like the picture. Thanks
Hmmmm, I will cover this in an update video.
"We'll be right back" - yeah, after you change your underwear.... lol.
A fan of Marty and Moog are we?
MCM, the original and the best
@@ANDY5 They are.