I had the same problem with Dapol semaphores, I took one to bits and fixed the floating nut back in place but a few switches later the fault re-occurred!
Thanks for this. A while ago I bought a pair of Dapol junction signals (the newer upper quadrant variety, not the GWR ones that you have) which I will eventually instal. I would have been interested to see the process of adjusting the signals after installation - I see from the instructions that there are screws or knobs that you have to twiddle to ajdust how the boards go up and down. Like others, I noticed that your use of the junction signal is unprototypical, but the first rule of any model railway is that it's yours and the way you want it to be is always the correct way! Nevertheless it is a bit strange to see a signal being pulled off and then a train beginning to move on a completely different track.
@@JohnAshworth2023 I have fitted five of the junction signals and so far no fine adjustment has been necessary the are all ok on the factory default setting but the process seems simple but I would do it on a bench if it I had to do it, not trying to turn an adjusting screw from under the baseboard, touch wood all Dapol signals so far have worked out if the box
I'm a lady steam engine fanatic, who loves God's Wonderful Railway best of all. Show me a GWR Manor hard at work and I'll show you how much I truly love her. Merry Christmas.
Great demo , they look very good something i need to do too, but i noticed its the wrong signal for position , where it is sshould be a 3 post as you have a turnout on left too , could you not make an extenstion on bracket o cover main line , or have a signal further down ml, but i now its owners licence etc , still looks good where you have
@@tonyhaines2387 I am aware they are wrong and I could make a static non motorised signal easily enough but time is a factor and the sheer number of signals I have had to make are a major time commitment. I decided when I dismantled Westfield III that Westfield IV had to be an improvement. One of these was to solder a dropper wire to every single piece of track to ensure flawless DCC operation throughout. Not only that but the four dropper wires on adjacent tracks merge before attachment to the bus wire allowing current flow even with several breaks. Imagine 11 metres long by 3 metres wide and seven running tracks around that distance with sidings and 150+ points all electrofrog. The hundreds of metres of wires and thousands of solder joints can only be imagined. The second improvement was that visible signals have to be lit up. So each has had to have alterations and thebintricate fitting of nano led’s to over 100 semaphores. Only signals not visible from viewing points are unlit and that is a handful only. All of these have had to be resistored down to 3v from the 15v AC track supply so that when track power is on signals and track buffer lights come on. Any motorised signals have to bought in at £70+ a time. I did make A scratch built gantry and restored a second hand one I bought on eBay for £42. I also converted two Hornby gantries, Even ratio signals kits costs add to this a lot. So on a cost benefit analysis for now that is all I can do. One day I may decide to fit proper signalling but that will cost thousands of pounds so for now not an option. My mission statement is to run mainly GWR locomotives and trains in a visually pleasing environment and that is what I am doing. Hope this clears up why I am using Dapol junction signals instead of unavailable starter signals. 🤓
Is there not a 15mm drill bit?….. curious as to why you used 14mm then filed it to 15mm or do you just not have one?…. Lovely looking layout. No comment about the type of signal. Am now a subscriber, haven’t seen your videos pop up on my feed before. Just an easy to watch video with captions and relaxing music, that was also nicely edited. Good job.
@@LaurenceHoward-f4h could have bought a 15mm bit, they are not in usual bit sets but mainly I wanted a snug fit so figured a couple of minutes filing worth the effort
DAPOL OR MSE = AMATEUR OR PROFESSIONAL ! Biggest problem with Dapol signals is the wiring method provided. There is NO provision at all to allow the signal to be interfaced with the DISTANT, or any other signal for that matter. Or even to have a repeater on the panel to show whether a signal is clear or at danger. Meaning they are totally useless as they stand ! Never mind the fact they often "fall to bits" during installation. So I used MSE (Model Signal Engineering from Wizard Models the manufacturer) brass/white metal kits. And linked the signals to modified Relays to physically move the arms and interface the signals with the normal interlocking required for signalling, using one or more of the switches on the relay !
the ones with relays are good (junction signals) the single semaphore ones have a floating nut on a threaded rod and I have had trouble with 2 out of the 3 that I bought
Don't buy any Dapol semiphore signals they fail very quickly, of the 20 I bought for my railway 3 still work at the moment bit not giving much hope for them. Some didn't even work out the box, don't even think about trying to repair them.
@@IainDavies-z2l yes that was my experience I 2/3 fails’ thought it might be me using momentary contact switches for the semaphores and not the Dapol supplied on offs what did you use?
I had the same problem with Dapol semaphores, I took one to bits and fixed the floating nut back in place but a few switches later the fault re-occurred!
yeah🤕
Excellent!
thx
Thanks for this. A while ago I bought a pair of Dapol junction signals (the newer upper quadrant variety, not the GWR ones that you have) which I will eventually instal. I would have been interested to see the process of adjusting the signals after installation - I see from the instructions that there are screws or knobs that you have to twiddle to ajdust how the boards go up and down. Like others, I noticed that your use of the junction signal is unprototypical, but the first rule of any model railway is that it's yours and the way you want it to be is always the correct way! Nevertheless it is a bit strange to see a signal being pulled off and then a train beginning to move on a completely different track.
@@JohnAshworth2023 I have fitted five of the junction signals and so far no fine adjustment has been necessary the are all ok on the factory default setting but the process seems simple but I would do it on a bench if it I had to do it, not trying to turn an adjusting screw from under the baseboard, touch wood all Dapol signals so far have worked out if the box
It’s a shame Dapol don’t do double starter signals as that would have been correct for this application - what you have there is a junction signal.
I know but this is a fictional railway............... there is an A4 in the engine shed....🙂
Also note reply to @dinmorejunctionmodelrailway below 😇
I'm a lady steam engine fanatic, who loves God's Wonderful Railway best of all. Show me a GWR Manor hard at work and I'll show you how much I truly love her. Merry Christmas.
Posted a small video on my Accurascale Manor It's titled Accurascale "Granville Manor" passing through Westfield Station🚂
Great demo , they look very good something i need to do too, but i noticed its the wrong signal for position , where it is sshould be a 3 post as you have a turnout on left too , could you not make an extenstion on bracket o cover main line , or have a signal further down ml, but i now its owners licence etc , still looks good where you have
@@tonyhaines2387 I am aware they are wrong and I could make a static non motorised signal easily enough but time is a factor and the sheer number of signals I have had to make are a major time commitment.
I decided when I dismantled Westfield III that Westfield IV had to be an improvement. One of these was to solder a dropper wire to every single piece of track to ensure flawless DCC operation throughout. Not only that but the four dropper wires on adjacent tracks merge before attachment to the bus wire allowing current flow even with several breaks. Imagine 11 metres long by 3 metres wide and seven running tracks around that distance with sidings and 150+ points all electrofrog. The hundreds of metres of wires and thousands of solder joints can only be imagined.
The second improvement was that visible signals have to be lit up. So each has had to have alterations and thebintricate fitting of nano led’s to over 100 semaphores. Only signals not visible from viewing points are unlit and that is a handful only. All of these have had to be resistored down to 3v from the 15v AC track supply so that when track power is on signals and track buffer lights come on.
Any motorised signals have to bought in at £70+ a time. I did make A scratch built gantry and restored a second hand one I bought on eBay for £42. I also converted two Hornby gantries, Even ratio signals kits costs add to this a lot.
So on a cost benefit analysis for now that is all I can do. One day I may decide to fit proper signalling but that will cost thousands of pounds so for now not an option.
My mission statement is to run mainly GWR locomotives and trains in a visually pleasing environment and that is what I am doing. Hope this clears up why I am using Dapol junction signals instead of unavailable starter signals. 🤓
they look amazing, wish they did LNER ones, looks so much better with signals that actually work
@@aleopardstail it’s your railway if you want you can use anything hell I got Mallard and Scotsman on my GWR layout heheh
@@Rancidhamster this is a very good point, and made very well :)
Is there not a 15mm drill bit?….. curious as to why you used 14mm then filed it to 15mm or do you just not have one?…. Lovely looking layout. No comment about the type of signal. Am now a subscriber, haven’t seen your videos pop up on my feed before. Just an easy to watch video with captions and relaxing music, that was also nicely edited. Good job.
@@LaurenceHoward-f4h could have bought a 15mm bit, they are not in usual bit sets but mainly I wanted a snug fit so figured a couple of minutes filing worth the effort
Nice, and all that 'drill of God' didn't phase the residents of the cattle dock!
Don't mention their destination tho
DAPOL OR MSE = AMATEUR OR PROFESSIONAL !
Biggest problem with Dapol signals is the wiring method provided. There is NO provision at all to allow the signal to be interfaced with the DISTANT, or any other signal for that matter. Or even to have a repeater on the panel to show whether a signal is clear or at danger. Meaning they are totally useless as they stand ! Never mind the fact they often "fall to bits" during installation. So I used MSE (Model Signal Engineering from Wizard Models the manufacturer) brass/white metal kits. And linked the signals to modified Relays to physically move the arms and interface the signals with the normal interlocking required for signalling, using one or more of the switches on the relay !
One day, I hope to be installing these semaphores signals
the ones with relays are good (junction signals) the single semaphore ones have a floating nut on a threaded rod and I have had trouble with 2 out of the 3 that I bought
Don't buy any Dapol semiphore signals they fail very quickly, of the 20 I bought for my railway 3 still work at the moment bit not giving much hope for them. Some didn't even work out the box, don't even think about trying to repair them.
I am like you DON'T buy any Dapol signals any more have gone 🎉 aspect electric with blocksignaling in fer red looks OK l am happy with them
The junction signals are very reliable, I found the singles questionable
Yes, the junction signals look a completey different design.
@@IainDavies-z2l yes that was my experience I 2/3 fails’ thought it might be me using momentary contact switches for the semaphores and not the Dapol supplied on offs what did you use?
I'm using a 1970s Hornby R910 controler and the black Hornby lever switches perhaps that's the problem, but work with points OK.