Knife Sharpening - Buck Honemaster
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- Steel type used Bd1n
Stones Used -
Pride Abrasives - 220 grit
Pride Abrasives - 1000 grit
Pride Abrasives - 3000 grit
Pride Abrasives - 8000 grit
Pride Abrasives - 10,000 grit
Dlt Xl leather strop with white compound
Bess ‘C’ average based on 4 cut tests -
79 g - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Good video Jef. Thanks for always providing great videos that really help a wide range of sharpeners from the novice to the experienced and helping the next generation of sharpening hobbyists to keep it going. It’s appreciated greatly brother 👊🏼🔪
UHMW Tape will be perfect match for this application ✌
Any tape would be better than raw steel 😁
I've never used one of those guide things but I always like checking your videos, always something cool. That pride abrasive 220 sure is abrasive. sounds like a really good brick or maybe some German asphalt. headphone users, lookout.
lol sorry about that. The 220 is indeed coarse. So much so, I fig’d i would have apexed quicker. Water just flows right through the thing. Ive debated adding a seal of cashew laquer, but the last porous stone i did that to, absorbed so much, it is almost ruined.
I had one of these years ago, don't know what happened to it. Free hand is much more convenient. Enjoyed the video.
Without a doubt, free hand is always more convenient ;)
That was my first guided system starting out. Then I switched to Lansky, and finally learned to free hand.
You could apply tape like straight razor to prevent wear.
I think they made roller wheels on the more expensive holders for plane blades.
Yea i thought tape might work 👍
Works well, but I must have edited out the clip showing how wavy the bevel came out. These guides always have some issue or another, but they get ya sharp.
@@Jef I think you can only count on those guides as an initial bevel setter. Switch to free hand after the bevel is set and finish out.
Dragging that clunky piece of metal along in the final stages ruins the initial work. You need to feel the stone in the finishing stages.
Well….bc i know how to freehand i would agree, that is an option. Someone who doesn’t, it wouldn’t be an ideal situation. Maybe, stick to one stone, and done. Regardless, the cut test at the end, says it worked, through the entire progression. Clunky, sure. I think, something simpler, would be a better option. Such as, the Naniwa guide, i showed at the beginning.
@@Jef Small knives (short) are not clunky because the guide stays stable on the stone. Long blades are better done in sections and then blended in.
I feel that once you have a flat straight edge ( no convex) you can maintain the angle free hand by watching the swarf.
When I started out, I was working with a lot of jacked up blades, and needed to reprofile to a basic edge. I resorted to sharpening some edges on bricks and sidewalks to get by on the jobsite. Now I carry a pocket diamond plate to get me by until I get home and break out the good stones.
What’s wrong with convex? Just easier for you to sharpen flats, or there something else there you prefer?
I’ve done the same on sidewalks and bricks, just to get an edge going. I now carry sand paper, and several different stones with me, on my work truck. The pocket sized venev stones are almost always in my back pack.