I'm glad I stumbled onto this vid. I'm new at using a lathe. I have an Atlas 10" lathe that was left behind when I bought my house in 06 and I recently cleaned it up and painted it. Now I'm trying to learn how to use it. Your vid has answered a lot of my questions. Thanks for posting.
I've always had the highest respect for craftsmen willing to teach, not preach. It is a sign of confidence without haughtiness. I just purchased a 10" South Bend to make parts for my 76 Harley. After spending 2 days setting up my basement and machine, I made my first chip last night. I have a lot to learn and your video is a great help. Thank you, subscribed and liked.
Thanks for those insights! A few decades ago I bought a lathe (after using them in tech school in the 1960's). But I couldn't get a good finish with it and it sat idle for 25+ years. During Covid-BS lockdowns (Au) I added CNC to my equally unused (similar aged) RF30 Mill. I learnt a lot, setting it up and so, I thought I'd give the lathe another whack! I watched 1/2 your video (up to the backlash demo) on your old machine and realised - a lot of things! I dug out some old (pre made/2nd hand) HSS tools and took a few test cuts! WOW - significantly better results with them than anything I could get with the carbide insert tools I'd bought. I watched the last half of your video today (after taking many notes of things you did) and pulled many parts off my lathe and examined them. I adjusted a few and removed quite a bit of chatter and backlash. This arvo' I'm going to try my hand at grinding some 30 year old HSS steel blanks into cutting tools. My carbide tools can GTFO. Thanks for your "warts and all" video, that I found chock full great knowledge! cheers from Australia! Will B.
Thank you,glad you were able to get something useful from it. Carbide has it’s place but I think it needs a fairly tight machine a little understanding of what it needs. hss is more forgiving. Good luck, Dan.
Hillsgun, I am a new hobby machinist. I purchased a Southbend 10K a year or so again. I have been struggling with surface finish on steel for a while now. Brass is pretty easy. But steel has been tough. Part of my problem is probably that I turn anything, without knowing what kind of steel I have. I finally ordered some 12L14 so I know what I am working with. I have also been working on my HSS grinding using a simple disk sander. Thanks for the tips and wisdom.
Rigidity, tool geometry, and make sure you are close to center height, type of steel shouldn’t be a limiting factor within reason, 12l14 will turn easier, but most of what we commonly acquire is a cold or hot roll mild steel which is slightly gummy by comparison but should turn ok. Good luck and have fun.
thank you. Just got a mini lathe and i am learning. i just cannot get a smooth cut but i have been told it is because the lathe needs to be fastened down more. if you have any more tips please let me know. thank you for sharing.
you are welcome. If you are working wih a new lathe that is fairly tight I I I suspect it probably has more to do with tool positioning than the machine being bolted down.
Thank you, the conversion was done a whole lot of years ago and any items used will have changed, I would check more recent videos of vs conversions and go from there. I will be converting my latest Sheldon in the same manner and will probably show parts of the electrical conversion, but that will probably not happen until next spring or summer. Dan.
I'm half way through this video and had to post a comment anyways. I've been running with my cross slide straight and "unlocked." I changed it as per your video and the difference is absolutely nothing short of AMAZING. I would absolutely like this twice if I could.
I'm surprised that you did not talk about the 'Shearing Tool'... So easy to grind... Does NOT need to be on centre... Can finish so fine that the cuttings are like a spider's web and the stock looks like polished chrome in your hand even before any hand polishing that might follow. Nobody likes a 'know it all' but I began grinding and using that tool after someone out there gave others this same tip and its one I certainly took on board and have used it ever since.
ah yes, a magical tool indeed, it is wonderful to have a tool that you can get close to the lathe and the stock will magically form itself into perfect submission out of fear .
Another tip use something like feelers gage put between round stock and and tool tip run tool till it touches gage if gage leaning at the top back towards you tool is to low, if gage is leaning away from you your to high if straight up and down you are right on . Ebay and amazon sell plastic height gages with a bubble level.
@@hillsgun interesting, keep the good work, how did you manage to connect them together, is there a standard communication or wiring between them. I'm very new to lathes but I'm starting and I want to make some precise work and mix it with some mini DIY CNC projects.
It is now old technology, the Shumatech is no longer available, it was originally designed to be used with inexpensive scales and worked well. I use them on several of my machines. Part of the problem now is that the scales no longer all use the same protocol to send measurement signals so not all scales work with the dro.
Small nose radius and positive rake angles are good for worn out low powered lathe slow feed and good speed is good try always to, feed rate less than nose radius per revolution, depth of cut more than nose to reduce radial push on tip of insert. High on center line tool push out, low tool is pulled in. hope this will help.
These things are true but sometimes is to much information for the new user, must of these things are great guidelines but for most hobbiests are lessons learned over time with hands on experience
I notice quite a few things that make me wonder. However, we all do things different. I saw a comment about "cheap Chinese" lathe. I currently running Mazak, Doosan, Bins & Berry and Herkules and a few cheap Chinese machines, using different materials from 1008 up 18CrNiMo7 and many stainless grades, however, I never have a finish problem and the cheap Chinese machines are quite up to standard. The simplest way is to abide by standard engineering and metallurgical rules and I also look at the chip (the material has to chip) and the colour of the chip, this will indicate that you are on the right track. Sometimes you need to reduce circumferential speed and increase feed speed. The chip will tell you.
You are right, We all do things differently, I don't remember exactly what I said about chinese lathes, but I also run some offshore machines and I have stated on several ocassions that I will choose them over worn, but better quality machines. This video was primarily directed at new individuals to machining on small lightweight and usually well worn machines to hopefully overcome some of the problems they will encounter. One of the main problems new hobby machinists will encounter is that instead of getting real help when they look on the internet what they encounter is individuals who will give a long resume of all of the machines they have run, all the materials they can machine and how much they know instead of some basic steps that can hopefully get them in the right direction. Telling the world that "I have never had a problem" does not help anyone except to stroke your own ego.
Being a machinist myself, I would have to say that the spindle bearing should be changed. I worked on a lathe one time that had the same problem. Turned out that the lathe had one time been crashed. A new spindle bearing should make a difference like night and day.
On a Sheldon it's not just as simple as just changing a spindle bearing and this machine has other issues. the point of many of my videos is not just how I do things, but also that many things can be done with less than optimal equipment and give satisfactory results. thanks, Dan.
I never trust any machine to be accurate..its up to the operator to make a part true. On that note, a good machine is one that cuts the same every time. Consistent cuts is what makes a good lathe or mill, not accuracy. I want it to cut the same every time I use it. Ps...thanks this is good stuff.
the best machine i've worked on only changed one way over the span of a week: tool wear the main tool was 0.8 micron shorter after a week of use, my parts were 1.6 micron wider This was dlc in alu, lasting almost 6 weeks with a 5 micron tolerance.
Great video! Totally off subject...at 5:50 there are several blue 3D printed "lock handles." What video do you make or use those? I'm needing to make a couple of those for my Atlas Horizontal Mill. I would love to see how you use them. Thank you in advance........jster1963
Thank you, Those are not printed, they are actually patterns. I have been working on them for some time and will have them on our website in the near future. I have several atlas parts we are working on and are slowly adding them. These are reproductions as close to original as I can make them so while I have handles from these patterns I still am not quite satisfied with the plating.
hey a sheldon lathe what is it the 40 or 50 I ve a sheldon lathe but its an early the model 1936 with qcgb ,he is old but its go good ,ive a qctp for hard steel ,but with soft steel and hss tool he go good and succesfully with your lathe bye
I think the easiest general advice to improve finish is two fold: 1st: High spindle speed, slow feed rate, a sharp tool on center. 2nd. Use the above to first get a good finish on aluminum so you know what a good finish looks like sounds like, and feels like from your machine.
I think that is basically true, but if you aren't sure where to start and don't really know where you are in the process it can be really confusing when you are inundated with people telling you this is the only way to do something as is commonly happening on the forums. Hopefully I have visually shown some of the things to look for which "may" help sort the confusion. The tool on center is probably a part of the problem because until you know how to compensate for it it may be set on center, but when it is put under cutting forces, depending on wear it may be deflecting way low. Now I am going back to the shop to continue shaping the radiuses for the 4 position tool post for the 10". Talk to you later John.
Yeah. We've all been there before in our quests for answers. It's extra "amusing" when someone innocently asks a perpetually debated question that triggers forum civil war.
Hi John: Not sure I understand the context you are refering to as it's been a while since I posted this video. If the stock is not centered it will still turn a concentric outer finish
Plz help My work has a cq9332 Bolton lathe and I make copper pins with it only my first cut at low speed isn't smooth I'll go over my last lap manually on high speed and still have to sand it down pretty good What could the problem be?
Hard to tell without knowing more, Go back to the basics and work from there machine copper and brass dry, make sure your tool is sharp and exactly on center height, I would probably be running at 400 to 600 rpm and I often feed manually at least thru a few cuts until I figure out the approximate feed rate. I am assuming that the machine is in good condition. It will probably come down to tool geometry, and positioning. Keep at it and good luck.Dan.
are any of the asian machines sturdier than the old small american lathes? i have a beat up 10" atlas lathe that does ok but it's design is really not that robust and i don't know if i have a heavy hand or if this is how they all are.
I have stated before that I really like my Atlas machines, and I make a little money on the parts that I produce for them, but the reality is that most if not all of the Atlas machines have been around for years and are well worn. Many peaple will advertise them in "as new" or "perfect" condition, I have yet to see one that is not well used. I have reworked a mill and the lathe that I built into a production lathe and they both do fine work within their capabilities but the reality is that an import machine such as the Grizzly G0602 that I purchased new (and converted to cnc) is a far better machine in almost all respects. If a person is investing money for a lathe to have the most capabilities hands down I will recomend a new import.
I have cheap Chinese machines alongside Doosan, Mazak, Bins & Berry and Herkules. I meet ISO & DIN tolerance and surface finish. About 60% of the time I cut 18CrNiMo7. Maybe I am just lucky
@@hillsgun Thanks,,,with my 12 x 36 atlas I've found the faster it turns the better the finish,,,and just seems I have a lot more capabilities with rest straight and just changing it for treading,,
@@georgespangler1517 to a certain degree you are correct, but you also find high speed and a medium to heavy cut will overheat your tooling quickly to the point of excessive tool wear and poor finish
I see your Sumatech DRO is still operating? My lathe DRO packed it on so I replaced it with a SINO. Never installed the Shumatech 2 axis on the lathe. Must be nice to have a 3 axis on a lathe? What tooling do you like for 1045 steel?
I have had good luck with the Shumatech DRO's. I have them on 3 machines and they all work well. The only real problems have been with the scales which are the cheap scales we used early on. I built and installed the dro's early on and have some spares for future use. I definitly like the 3 axis on the lathe. As I add new machines I will probably go a different way with the DRO's but for the equipment I have now and possibly future used equipment I see no reason to change as it has all the capabilities I need. For tooling on the manual lathes I use mainly HSS as I think it offers more versatility and is more forgiving than carbide. On the cnc machines I use carbide exclusivly unless it is a short run specialty tool which does not require repeatable setup in the future.
Nope, more to it than that. Wear in a well used lathe will not be even and while it can still produce good work it has to be taken into consideration. While I prefer US iron the reality is that from a straight mechanical standpoint the "cheap" chinese lathe that I run for cnc work will hold better tolerences than my worn Sheldon. While my Sheldon will still do very good work if I operate it the same as the cheap lathe then the cheap lathe will outperform it.
I think hi speed steel is a necessity in the home shop. carbide has it's place but for the average home hobby shop hi speed steel is much more versatile.
@@hillsgun , ok agreed. I have also some hispeed billets for special purposes like snapring grooves etc. But normal "bulk turning" I wouldn't even think to use hss tool. Because; rough finish, need of cooling, and (chinise) carbide tools in eBay are just so cheap but still good enough. My favorite is WNMG02** inserts and holders; less than 1€/piece, 6 edges in every insert, shiny surface finish, dry turning with reasonable speed. (500-700 rpm and feed 0,10-0,15 mm/r + 1,50 - 2,00 mm chip thickness)
I'm glad I stumbled onto this vid. I'm new at using a lathe. I have an Atlas 10" lathe that was left behind when I bought my house in 06 and I recently cleaned it up and painted it. Now I'm trying to learn how to use it. Your vid has answered a lot of my questions. Thanks for posting.
Glad I could help!
I've always had the highest respect for craftsmen willing to teach, not preach. It is a sign of confidence without haughtiness.
I just purchased a 10" South Bend to make parts for my 76 Harley. After spending 2 days setting up my basement and machine, I made my first chip last night. I have a lot to learn and your video is a great help. Thank you, subscribed and liked.
Thank you, I’m glad it was helpful. Dan
Thanks for those insights!
A few decades ago I bought a lathe (after using them in tech school in the 1960's).
But I couldn't get a good finish with it and it sat idle for 25+ years.
During Covid-BS lockdowns (Au) I added CNC to my equally unused (similar aged) RF30 Mill.
I learnt a lot, setting it up and so, I thought I'd give the lathe another whack!
I watched 1/2 your video (up to the backlash demo) on your old machine and realised - a lot of things!
I dug out some old (pre made/2nd hand) HSS tools and took a few test cuts!
WOW - significantly better results with them than anything I could get with the carbide insert tools I'd bought.
I watched the last half of your video today (after taking many notes of things you did) and pulled many parts off my lathe and examined them.
I adjusted a few and removed quite a bit of chatter and backlash.
This arvo' I'm going to try my hand at grinding some 30 year old HSS steel blanks into cutting tools.
My carbide tools can GTFO.
Thanks for your "warts and all" video, that I found chock full great knowledge!
cheers from Australia!
Will B.
Thank you,glad you were able to get something useful from it. Carbide has it’s place but I think it needs a fairly tight machine a little understanding of what it needs. hss is more forgiving. Good luck, Dan.
Great video, nice to watch an actual machinist for a change. Just like being back at work. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Ken.
Yup..taught myself the same basics with the help of videos like this. GOOD VIDEO
thanks
Hillsgun, I am a new hobby machinist. I purchased a Southbend 10K a year or so again. I have been struggling with surface finish on steel for a while now. Brass is pretty easy. But steel has been tough. Part of my problem is probably that I turn anything, without knowing what kind of steel I have. I finally ordered some 12L14 so I know what I am working with. I have also been working on my HSS grinding using a simple disk sander. Thanks for the tips and wisdom.
Rigidity, tool geometry, and make sure you are close to center height, type of steel shouldn’t be a limiting factor within reason, 12l14 will turn easier, but most of what we commonly acquire is a cold or hot roll mild steel which is slightly gummy by comparison but should turn ok. Good luck and have fun.
@@hillsgun Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Couldn't agree more, carbide has its place, but learn to grind HSS and the possibilities are endless. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks for watching!
Glad I could help, thanks.
thank you. Just got a mini lathe and i am learning. i just cannot get a smooth cut but i have been told it is because the lathe needs to be fastened down more. if you have any more tips please let me know. thank you for sharing.
you are welcome. If you are working wih a new lathe that is fairly tight I I I suspect it probably has more to do with tool positioning than the machine being bolted down.
@@hillsgun thank you
Thanks for the straight talk on this.
Good morning George, sorry for the previous reply I was replying to a different video I had posted, glad it was helpful Thanks, Dan.
Excellent video. I have a Logan 400. How did you make the lathe variable speed? Could you post a list of parts you used to convert it. Thanks.
Thank you, the conversion was done a whole lot of years ago and any items used will have changed, I would check more recent videos of vs conversions and go from there. I will be converting my latest Sheldon in the same manner and will probably show parts of the electrical conversion, but that will probably not happen until next spring or summer. Dan.
I'm half way through this video and had to post a comment anyways. I've been running with my cross slide straight and "unlocked." I changed it as per your video and the difference is absolutely nothing short of AMAZING. I would absolutely like this twice if I could.
Glad I could help, Thanks.
I noticed once in school that the word "bit" causes the instructors to give u funny looks.
Don't know why
I'm surprised that you did not talk about the 'Shearing Tool'... So easy to grind... Does NOT need to be on centre... Can finish so fine that the cuttings are like a spider's web and the stock looks like polished chrome in your hand even before any hand polishing that might follow. Nobody likes a 'know it all' but I began grinding and using that tool after someone out there gave others this same tip and its one I certainly took on board and have used it ever since.
ah yes, a magical tool indeed, it is wonderful to have a tool that you can get close to the lathe and the stock will magically form itself into perfect submission out of fear .
Another tip use something like feelers gage put between round stock and and tool tip run tool till it touches gage if gage leaning at the top back towards you tool is to low, if gage is leaning away from you your to high if straight up and down you are right on . Ebay and amazon sell plastic height gages with a bubble level.
We have always used razor blades and height gauges built for the individual lathes
@08:59 I like those guys you added to you lathe at the side, it seems like a normal cheap digital calipers and you a minor modification to it, is it?
It is a cheap chinese scale, but it is connected to the Shumatec digital readout which is shown at 10:15
@@hillsgun interesting, keep the good work, how did you manage to connect them together, is there a standard communication or wiring between them. I'm very new to lathes but I'm starting and I want to make some precise work and mix it with some mini DIY CNC projects.
It is now old technology, the Shumatech is no longer available, it was originally designed to be used with inexpensive scales and worked well. I use them on several of my machines. Part of the problem now is that the scales no longer all use the same protocol to send measurement signals so not all scales work with the dro.
@@hillsgun ok, bad to hear that
Small nose radius and positive rake angles are good for worn out low powered lathe slow feed and good speed is good try always to, feed rate less than nose radius per revolution, depth of cut more than nose to reduce radial push on tip of insert. High on center line tool push out, low tool is pulled in. hope this will help.
These things are true but sometimes is to much information for the new user, must of these things are great guidelines but for most hobbiests are lessons learned over time with hands on experience
I notice quite a few things that make me wonder. However, we all do things different. I saw a comment about "cheap Chinese" lathe. I currently running Mazak, Doosan, Bins & Berry and Herkules and a few cheap Chinese machines, using different materials from 1008 up 18CrNiMo7 and many stainless grades, however, I never have a finish problem and the cheap Chinese machines are quite up to standard. The simplest way is to abide by standard engineering and metallurgical rules and I also look at the chip (the material has to chip) and the colour of the chip, this will indicate that you are on the right track. Sometimes you need to reduce circumferential speed and increase feed speed. The chip will tell you.
You are right, We all do things differently, I don't remember exactly what I said about chinese lathes, but I also run some offshore machines and I have stated on several ocassions that I will choose them over worn, but better quality machines. This video was primarily directed at new individuals to machining on small lightweight and usually well worn machines to hopefully overcome some of the problems they will encounter. One of the main problems new hobby machinists will encounter is that instead of getting real help when they look on the internet what they encounter is individuals who will give a long resume of all of the machines they have run, all the materials they can machine and how much they know instead of some basic steps that can hopefully get them in the right direction. Telling the world that "I have never had a problem" does not help anyone except to stroke your own ego.
Thank You, very helpful 😇🙏
You're welcome 😊
Being a machinist myself, I would have to say that the spindle bearing should be changed. I worked on a lathe one time that had the same problem. Turned out that the lathe had one time been crashed. A new spindle bearing should make a difference like night and day.
On a Sheldon it's not just as simple as just changing a spindle bearing and this machine has other issues. the point of many of my videos is not just how I do things, but also that many things can be done with less than optimal equipment and give satisfactory results. thanks, Dan.
Nice video 👍
Thank you, Dan.
Ty great vid for beginners
Thank you
I never trust any machine to be accurate..its up to the operator to make a part true.
On that note, a good machine is one that cuts the same every time. Consistent cuts is what makes a good lathe or mill, not accuracy. I want it to cut the same every time I use it.
Ps...thanks this is good stuff.
thanks
the best machine i've worked on only changed one way over the span of a week: tool wear
the main tool was 0.8 micron shorter after a week of use, my parts were 1.6 micron wider
This was dlc in alu, lasting almost 6 weeks with a 5 micron tolerance.
Great video! Totally off subject...at 5:50 there are several blue 3D printed "lock handles." What video do you make or use those? I'm needing to make a couple of those for my Atlas Horizontal Mill. I would love to see how you use them. Thank you in advance........jster1963
Thank you, Those are not printed, they are actually patterns. I have been working on them for some time and will have them on our website in the near future. I have several atlas parts we are working on and are slowly adding them. These are reproductions as close to original as I can make them so while I have handles from these patterns I still am not quite satisfied with the plating.
@@hillsgun Awesome! I can't wait to see the final product. And thank you so much for your reply....
Are you in the SF bay area?
No
I would say speed and speeds and depth of cuts .
hey a sheldon lathe what is it the 40 or 50 I ve a sheldon lathe but its an early the model 1936 with qcgb ,he is old but its go good ,ive a qctp for hard steel ,but with soft steel and hss tool he go good and succesfully with your lathe bye
I think the easiest general advice to improve finish is two fold:
1st: High spindle speed, slow feed rate, a sharp tool on center.
2nd. Use the above to first get a good finish on aluminum so you know
what a good finish looks like sounds like, and feels like from your machine.
I think that is basically true, but if you aren't sure where to start and don't really know where you are in the process it can be really confusing when you are inundated with people telling you this is the only way to do something as is commonly happening on the forums. Hopefully I have visually shown some of the things to look for which "may" help sort the confusion. The tool on center is probably a part of the problem because until you know how to compensate for it it may be set on center, but when it is put under cutting forces, depending on wear it may be deflecting way low. Now I am going back to the shop to continue shaping the radiuses for the 4 position tool post for the 10". Talk to you later John.
Yeah. We've all been there before in our quests for answers. It's extra "amusing" when someone innocently asks a perpetually debated question that triggers forum civil war.
So if the stock isn’t lined up pretty good, it won’t be smooth?
Hi John: Not sure I understand the context you are refering to as it's been a while since I posted this video. If the stock is not centered it will still turn a concentric outer finish
Plz help
My work has a cq9332 Bolton lathe and I make copper pins with it only my first cut at low speed isn't smooth
I'll go over my last lap manually on high speed and still have to sand it down pretty good
What could the problem be?
Hard to tell without knowing more, Go back to the basics and work from there machine copper and brass dry, make sure your tool is sharp and exactly on center height, I would probably be running at 400 to 600 rpm and I often feed manually at least thru a few cuts until I figure out the approximate feed rate. I am assuming that the machine is in good condition. It will probably come down to tool geometry, and positioning. Keep at it and good luck.Dan.
are any of the asian machines sturdier than the old small american lathes? i have a beat up 10" atlas lathe that does ok but it's design is really not that robust and i don't know if i have a heavy hand or if this is how they all are.
I have stated before that I really like my Atlas machines, and I make a little money on the parts that I produce for them, but the reality is that most if not all of the Atlas machines have been around for years and are well worn. Many peaple will advertise them in "as new" or "perfect" condition, I have yet to see one that is not well used. I have reworked a mill and the lathe that I built into a production lathe and they both do fine work within their capabilities but the reality is that an import machine such as the Grizzly G0602 that I purchased new (and converted to cnc) is a far better machine in almost all respects. If a person is investing money for a lathe to have the most capabilities hands down I will recomend a new import.
I have cheap Chinese machines alongside Doosan, Mazak, Bins & Berry and Herkules. I meet ISO & DIN tolerance and surface finish. About 60% of the time I cut 18CrNiMo7. Maybe I am just lucky
Small Feed, high speed & small radius tool tip
That is true, but once again for the new user who doesn't know that may not provide all the answers to get things working.
What rpms are you running ?
I don't recall, it will vary with the cut, material, and feed, just to name a few variables
@@hillsgun Thanks,,,with my 12 x 36 atlas I've found the faster it turns the better the finish,,,and just seems I have a lot more capabilities with rest straight and just changing it for treading,,
@@hillsgun but I'm just learning and like opinions from guys wth experience,,
@@hillsgun I guess with excessive wear on angle it would be more rigid
@@georgespangler1517 to a certain degree you are correct, but you also find high speed and a medium to heavy cut will overheat your tooling quickly to the point of excessive tool wear and poor finish
Ha, I found the one other guy in the world that drinks Vanilla Coke.
I see your Sumatech DRO is still operating? My lathe DRO packed it on so I replaced it with a SINO. Never installed the Shumatech 2 axis on the lathe. Must be nice to have a 3 axis on a lathe?
What tooling do you like for 1045 steel?
I have had good luck with the Shumatech DRO's. I have them on 3 machines and they all work well. The only real problems have been with the scales which are the cheap scales we used early on. I built and installed the dro's early on and have some spares for future use. I definitly like the 3 axis on the lathe. As I add new machines I will probably go a different way with the DRO's but for the equipment I have now and possibly future used equipment I see no reason to change as it has all the capabilities I need. For tooling on the manual lathes I use mainly HSS as I think it offers more versatility and is more forgiving than carbide. On the cnc machines I use carbide exclusivly unless it is a short run specialty tool which does not require repeatable setup in the future.
great machining, you could improve your focus pulling ;)
Thanks, that video was shot quite a while ago, hopefully I am using a little better equipment know and know a little more. : ) Thanks, Dan
If all has been done correctly then spindle bearings and adjust Gibs. If it's a cheap china lathe then good luck. .0005 to .001 per rev finishing
Nope, more to it than that. Wear in a well used lathe will not be even and while it can still produce good work it has to be taken into consideration. While I prefer US iron the reality is that from a straight mechanical standpoint the "cheap" chinese lathe that I run for cnc work will hold better tolerences than my worn Sheldon. While my Sheldon will still do very good work if I operate it the same as the cheap lathe then the cheap lathe will outperform it.
I have cheap Chines machines alongside Doosan, Mazak, Bins & Berry and Herkules. I meet ISO & DIN tolerance and surface finish. Maybe I am just lucky.
need to re upload... vid is black screen :)
just finishing the upload, give it a few minutes and it will be there.
all good to go now :)
🙂
How about carbide tools? Highspeed sucks. Ugh. 😂
I think hi speed steel is a necessity in the home shop. carbide has it's place but for the average home hobby shop hi speed steel is much more versatile.
@@hillsgun , ok agreed. I have also some hispeed billets for special purposes like snapring grooves etc.
But normal "bulk turning" I wouldn't even think to use hss tool. Because; rough finish, need of cooling, and (chinise) carbide tools in eBay are just so cheap but still good enough.
My favorite is WNMG02** inserts and holders; less than 1€/piece, 6 edges in every insert, shiny surface finish, dry turning with reasonable speed. (500-700 rpm and feed 0,10-0,15 mm/r + 1,50 - 2,00 mm chip thickness)
it is strange you Americans always set topslide over to 45 degress as it's never done in UK. We like topslides set true!
Oh you brits : ). Compound is set to 29 degrees that way it is set up and ready to cut American National threads