Thanks for this tutorial, it's much needed. As a drummer in the 9th Pennsylvania Regiment of the Continental Line (Brigade of the American Revolution) I had to make my own drum as in 1974 Cooperman drum orders were backed up 4 years. I used an unfinished Ludwig 18" high shell and 16" diameter with wood rims. I drilled the rims and the shell air hole. Linen rope and solid brass head tacks (for the sunburst pattern around the air hole were sourced from England. Shell was stained maple, rims stained red cherry, spar varnish finish. BTW, I whipped the ends of my tension rope for authenticity. Catgut snares, calfskin heads and blacksmith made tensioner setup. Handmade tugs with rawhide lacing, true buff leather sling W/ stick holder and blacksmith forged S hook. Approved by the BAR inspector as "museum quality. Rosewood drumsticks. Still have that drum and sling plus the Spanish blade hanger with my handmade slotted American style brass hand guard and turned maple handle with brass finials. 90% hand sewn wool regimental musicians reverse colors coat, linen weskit and shirt, leather neck collar. Museum quality haversack, canteen and bi-corn hat with black and white alliance cockade.
i have a civil war drum that has 2 hair thin cracks on the body of the drum 1 is about5 inches long and 1 is 3 inches long but they are only noticable when you look very close is it OK to still use it? as its the only ones on the entire drum and it is not deep at all it so thin of a crack that you cannot even feel it with your fingernail.thanks Richard
Dave knows his stuff for sure!! Thanks for the knowledge!
Thanks for this tutorial, it's much needed.
As a drummer in the 9th Pennsylvania Regiment of the Continental Line (Brigade of the American Revolution) I had to make my own drum as in 1974 Cooperman drum orders were backed up 4 years. I used an unfinished Ludwig 18" high shell and 16" diameter with wood rims. I drilled the rims and the shell air hole. Linen rope and solid brass head tacks (for the sunburst pattern around the air hole were sourced from England. Shell was stained maple, rims stained red cherry, spar varnish finish.
BTW, I whipped the ends of my tension rope for authenticity. Catgut snares, calfskin heads and blacksmith made tensioner setup. Handmade tugs with rawhide lacing, true buff leather sling W/ stick holder and blacksmith forged S hook. Approved by the BAR inspector as "museum quality. Rosewood drumsticks.
Still have that drum and sling plus the Spanish blade hanger with my handmade slotted American style brass hand guard and turned maple handle with brass finials. 90% hand sewn wool regimental musicians reverse colors coat, linen weskit and shirt, leather neck collar. Museum quality haversack, canteen and bi-corn hat with black and white alliance cockade.
We love our Loyal Drums Dave!!
Fort Ticonderoga Alumni
Great presentation. Thanks Dave.
BTW, are Colonial Williamsburg drums made there or by Cooperman?
Those are beautiful ears
i have a civil war drum that has 2 hair thin cracks on the body of the drum 1 is about5 inches long and 1 is 3 inches long but they are only noticable when you look very close is it OK to still use it? as its the only ones on the entire drum and it is not deep at all it so thin of a crack that you cannot even feel it with your fingernail.thanks Richard