From an LT40 Super Wide owner in Fiji, your videos are extremely informative and educational. In particular on maximising your cuts. But also as an Architect I am equally impressed at your overall setup and the high quality of lumber you produce. That is something that I aspire to. Thank you. If I ever get up to Alabama I will be sure to visit your Sawmill. God bless from Fiji.
Thank you so much for the videos you're making. I bought an LT15 about a year ago and I've been trying to learn as much as I can about sawmilling. Your channel is a must watch for me.
This is the method I use mostly. I get rift, quartered, and balanced face grain. Dries really flat. Been my go-to for a couple of years. Enjoyed, and thanks for sharing.
The colors inside of poplar are pretty amazing. My 1st log had different shades of gray , blue , green , brown , and the almost white of the bulk of the log.
Yes, for high grade furniture lumber, 8 foot long is the standard. I will cut some 10' and 12' but it's easier to get a zero knot, zero defect, 8 foot board than the same in a 12 footer.
I cut some poplar and stacked it without the stickers, let it brew for a few weeks and it created some great colors, put it in kiln dried it, ran it thru the planner and dang lots of purple and cool colors
After each visit I sit and ponder on what I was given by your video. I always marvel at the experience in achieving the maximum of the log. In this video I was curious as to the 8/4 slabs. The striking grain pattern you cut for I would assume would be best sold at 4/4 or 5/4. Not having a marketing background what makes 8/4 the best yield, Professor?
There is a huge market for 8/4 straight edge mineralized poplar for conventional table tops. Although we saw and sell a lot of live edge 8/4, many customers don't want to deal with the whole live edge thing, and since with live edge sawing techniques, I am limited both on quality and appearance, if I can do vertical grain sawing on highly figured wood, the customers will snap it up. Good question.
Sure, all of these apply to any species of lumber, although some species more than others. Pine is really bad to have stress, and most of the old school pine flooring was vertical grain milled. I have walked into many an old church or building and seen vertical sawn heartwood pine flooring.
What do people do with the mantle piece? Is it for an actual mantle? I'm still learning and unfamiliar with that terminology in this context. Also, was there a method to which end you started with first? Did you just start with the side you wanted the most wood from aesthetically? Thanks for your videos!
Yes! These are for old school wooden mantles people put over their fireplaces. When sawmillng always start on the best faces, and get the best wood from the log first, then work on the lower grade stuff later.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama That makes sense, thank you! I am curious why it's okay for the mantles to crack. Do people usually fill them with resin or something? Or are the cracks not structurally significant for their application?
I like both grains Robert. What is ultimately gonna happen to that mantle? I'm sure it will crack in some way but will the stress make it bow really bad one way or the other. If so, how do you prevent that?
You are correct, they will move a lot during the drying process, but I will flatten the salvageable ones in either our big planer or even using the mill if a customer wants a rough sawn finish. I can't do anything about the cracks, and they will crack...but most people don't mind cracks in the mantles. However, some of the mantles will just blow apart when they dry, and they will go into the old burn pile...
From an LT40 Super Wide owner in Fiji, your videos are extremely informative and educational. In particular on maximising your cuts. But also as an Architect I am equally impressed at your overall setup and the high quality of lumber you produce. That is something that I aspire to. Thank you. If I ever get up to Alabama I will be sure to visit your Sawmill. God bless from Fiji.
That means a lot to me, thanks!
Every time I finish one of your videos I’m left wishing I had a sawmill more than any other time
Thanks!
good video and job i liked the vertical better. take care, be safe and well
Thanks, will do!
Thank you so much for the videos you're making. I bought an LT15 about a year ago and I've been trying to learn as much as I can about sawmilling. Your channel is a must watch for me.
Glad I could help!
This is the method I use mostly. I get rift, quartered, and balanced face grain. Dries really flat. Been my go-to for a couple of years. Enjoyed, and thanks for sharing.
Great! I appreciate it.
Mr. Robert that is some beautiful wood. Thanks for the video. I just got me an old growth pecan to cut up in super excited to see what it looks like
Pecan is beautiful!
The colors inside of poplar are pretty amazing. My 1st log had different shades of gray , blue , green , brown , and the almost white of the bulk of the log.
Yes, it's crazy how much variation there is.
@HobbyHardwoodAlabama are the different colors from different minerals it's exposed to as its growing, or just natural to the tree ?
Chip wanted fries with that. Great video!
He's a ham.
I am always learning something, thanks for your knowledge and tips, and likeable wit😏
Thanks!
Outstanding Robert! Very interesting. I appreciate you posting.
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Beautiful wood sir,
Your turkey guys are going to be back.
Do you mill 8' logs mostly ?
Thanks for your time!
Yes, for high grade furniture lumber, 8 foot long is the standard. I will cut some 10' and 12' but it's easier to get a zero knot, zero defect, 8 foot board than the same in a 12 footer.
Beautiful wood Professor!
Thanks!
I cut some poplar and stacked it without the stickers, let it brew for a few weeks and it created some great colors, put it in kiln dried it, ran it thru the planner and dang lots of purple and cool colors
Excellent!
Love That Intro! 😂. Love your content Professor!
Thanks!
Got some large popular to saw. Now I know how I want to saw it. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful poplar!
Thank you!
I would use my Jellyroll method, as the face wants to lay and be stable in the deck.
After each visit I sit and ponder on what I was given by your video. I always marvel at the experience in achieving the maximum of the log. In this video I was curious as to the 8/4 slabs. The striking grain pattern you cut for I would assume would be best sold at 4/4 or 5/4. Not having a marketing background what makes 8/4 the best yield, Professor?
There is a huge market for 8/4 straight edge mineralized poplar for conventional table tops. Although we saw and sell a lot of live edge 8/4, many customers don't want to deal with the whole live edge thing, and since with live edge sawing techniques, I am limited both on quality and appearance, if I can do vertical grain sawing on highly figured wood, the customers will snap it up. Good question.
@HobbyHardwoodAlabama Excellent answer.. This is one of the many reasons your disciples love to visit, Professor.
Great video! What material do you use for your stickers???
Pretty much any good hardwood works.
Do you find a lot of these tips and trick to apply to milling cedar or other soft woods if you mill them
Sure, all of these apply to any species of lumber, although some species more than others. Pine is really bad to have stress, and most of the old school pine flooring was vertical grain milled. I have walked into many an old church or building and seen vertical sawn heartwood pine flooring.
@HobbyHardwoodAlabama thank you
Man I wish I had some of that to run my saw across. Not a whole lot of (or any) up here in zone 4 though.
It is rare here too, I have my loggers looking out for it.
What do people do with the mantle piece? Is it for an actual mantle? I'm still learning and unfamiliar with that terminology in this context. Also, was there a method to which end you started with first? Did you just start with the side you wanted the most wood from aesthetically? Thanks for your videos!
Yes! These are for old school wooden mantles people put over their fireplaces. When sawmillng always start on the best faces, and get the best wood from the log first, then work on the lower grade stuff later.
@@HobbyHardwoodAlabama That makes sense, thank you! I am curious why it's okay for the mantles to crack. Do people usually fill them with resin or something? Or are the cracks not structurally significant for their application?
I like both grains Robert. What is ultimately gonna happen to that mantle? I'm sure it will crack in some way but will the stress make it bow really bad one way or the other. If so, how do you prevent that?
You are correct, they will move a lot during the drying process, but I will flatten the salvageable ones in either our big planer or even using the mill if a customer wants a rough sawn finish. I can't do anything about the cracks, and they will crack...but most people don't mind cracks in the mantles. However, some of the mantles will just blow apart when they dry, and they will go into the old burn pile...
What the name log wood ?
Mineralized or Rainbow Poplar