What Is Safety Razor Blade Gap? Mild vs Aggressive Safety Razors | Complete Explanation & Examples!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video, Robert tells us all about Blade Gap - what is it? What does it mean? How does it make your safety razor mild or aggressive?
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I use a Wilkinson Sword Classic with Gillette Stainless(the red blades). I always get irritation on the neck when I go against the grain(my first pass is WTG my second is XTG and my third is ATG).
I wonder if I use something like a Merkur 37c against the grain on the neck the results will be without irritation.
There are a couple of things you could try before changing your razor. First, try "face mapping". This is simply letting your stubble grow out to around 1.5 to 2mm, and then examine your face in the mirror (a magnifying mirror if possible), and take a mental note of the directions the hairs grow. Mine grow in all sorts of crazy directions e.g. on the upper lip they're straight down, likewise the middle of the goatee area, but the outer edges of that area are diagonal in the direction of my ears. The undersides of the jawline point back toward the ears, on the cheeks they grow down, but the sides of the neck grow upward. The centre of the neck just above the Adam's App,e is up, but just under the tip of the chin is down. All this means that if I want to go "with the grain" on a 1st pass, the direction has to change according to which part of my face I'm shaving. For example: if I started at the top of the cheek and went down (WTG), I couldn't continue down the neck in the same direction because now I'd be going ATG. I stop at the jawline, and instead go up from the bottom of the neck to the jawline. By changing direction to suite the cheek and the neck, I'm still going WTG. If I didn't and continued straight down the cheek all the way down the neck, I'd be going ATG on the neck, and causing irritation. That was my early experience when I first started using a safety razor. The neck irritation reduced dramatically after learned this "face mapping" business from a TH-cam video, because it made me realise that my problem was that I wasn't taking into account that hair direction isn't consistent across all areas of the face.
In addition to mapping, you could try a milder blade. I also changed from hard soap to cream, which I found easier to whip up into a generous lather. Also, re-lather any areas you want to go over again. Don't do it dry. Hope this helps.
BLADEE