What you have there is Hobbytown's centrifugal clutch flywheel, which was an early method of adding more realistic control and longer coasting. When tuned just right, you rev up the motor as if starting the diesel engine to get moving, then back off the power a bit as you get up to speed. Once the power is cut, the rubber clutch collapses and the flywheel coasts freely without resistance from the motor, and you have to account for the coasting distance to make sure it stops where you want. Tuning and controlling them is a bit of an art!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on this loco. I have never seen a clutch in an HO scale locomotive before so this was all new to me. Seems like an interesting concept, the only major flaw I could see would be it wearing down or dry rotting.
Thank you for that great information. I have never seen a clutch setup before. It seems like a little OVER-engineering but very cool. Someone was thinking way outside the box. Was that a VARNEY brand loco?
they were never direct competitors within the make. the RSD's were indicated for lighter-rail right-of-ways. it was purely a matter of rail-loading- you HAD to have the 12-wheel units for use on certain trackage.
“Let’s see if OUR efforts paid off” Hey, glad WE could help. Team effort. I’m impressed, I would have given it to some kid with a booming YT channel after the first attempt. You never give up. Well done MacGyver.
Another great restoration. Yes indeed, the old Hobbtown units were growlers and loved to draw current. That is just the way it was...old school railroading. I think most every road had these Alco units doing everything under the sun from main line to short line to switching. They were indeed the jack of all trades. Try a double head lashup for a jaw dropping experience. Enjoyed every minute. Thanks
Great video. That is actually an ALCO RSD-4/5, and the flywheel is a flywheel and clutch. Hobbytown locomotives set the standard for the day, being long lasting, reliable, smooth running and powerful, so you got yourself quite a find there. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
interestingly the clutch scheme didn't fail or else i would call it 'over-engineered'. i'd still be tempted to fill that thing with glue and be done with it, once and for all....
Santa Fe got these for helper(Banking to Brits) service up to Raton Pass in New Mexico. They were assigned to Trinidad, CO and Albuquerque. (Where you had to make that oh, so critical left turn.)
@@SMTMainline as far as I know the last one that was in revenue service was working as a switcher for for a grain elevator near Harvard Illinois and was retired from service about 10 years ago and is now at Illinois Railway Museum repainted in it's original CNW livery at least I thought that was what I read when the unit was donated.
@@SMTMainline The Santa Fe sold off the last of their RSD5’s in the late 1960’s. An RSD5, albeit of Chicago & North Western heritage, operates at a museum in Illinois.
Alco RSC and RSD loco's were RS loco's with extra axle's to spread weight. They allowed diesels to be used on branch lines with 40-90# track. Track weight is pounds per yard. Modern track is 110-130#. Once grain hauling switched to covered/cylinder hopper hauling light branch lines went away.
you have one of the most impressive and facinating ho collections i thik i have ever seen! you have a lot of the same locos and rolling stock pieces i have. i find very interesting watching model train videos to to see who has the same or similar things that i have in both o gauge and ho and how much i have in common with my fellow model railroaders!
I am catching up with your videos. I have an Atlas S2 that I have rebuilt. I did so with the intention of putting a sound DCC system in. Once I tuned it up and got it running again, it was exceptionally quiet without the body shell. Perfect for a sound unit. When I reinstalled the shell it was noisy just like your RSD. I took the shell off and lined it with masking tape to stop the noise from bouncing around. It worked. The engine immediately was quiet. The shell was acting like a speaker baffle. It now has a Tsunami II sound unit with a sugar cube speaker and a current keeper, and it is a great engine that I use a lot on my switching layout. Try the electrical tape sometime on one of your noisier engines. Maybe it will work. Your video's are really fun to watch.
Good job! And good filming / commentating / editing too, by the way! TH-cam brought me here, but your videos got me to pull out my dads old Lionel steam locos from about 52 out of there boxes where they have been sitting for decades!
Harrison, First of all, if you check the motor with a volt/ohm meter you can check the stall amperage. Usually this would be done before the DCC decoder gets installed. If you ever added a DCC decoder to a "DCC Ready" locomotive, you may have removed a DUMMY plug that lets it operate on DC. That is a really great way of determining power issues with a unfamiliar loco. This also a great way of testing amp draw without rewiring the train. Just pull out the decoder, plug in the dummy and test the amp draw. I understand your volt/ohm meter has broken leads but it is one of the most important tools for model railroading. You can get one for FREE at Harbor Freight with their monthly coupon or just pay the normal $5. and get it now. It's cheaper than buying new test leads for your broken meter. You will use the amp meter ALL OF THE TIME and the continuity tester all the time. This will become your most valuable tool for all electrical tests. You won't believe how much time it will save you trying to figure out what wire goes where. You can even test continuity between the front trucks and the rear. You don't need a fancy meter for the railroad, just the $5 (sometimes Free) red multi-meter from Harbor freight. It works great and it comes with a FREE 9 volt battery already installed. (I am a huge fan of DCC. It is the BEST way to consist several locomotives together and have them work flawlessly together. You can even run a DCC and a DC loco in the same consist and have them work together. There is no way I would ever remove a Decoder from a loco. They always work far better with them. They motors are much quieter with DCC and have far better performance. That slow crawl speed you love is much easier to do with DCC. That little decoder can do a lot more than you give it credit for. (Lighting effects like exhaust spark flicker, Mars lights, ditch lights that go back and forth, even firebox flicker on steam engines plus on-off control of a smoke stack!) Using DC power, put an amp meter in series on the motor and get the motor to full speed. Now grab the shaft and stop it with your fingers. Watch the amp meter and see how high it goes. That is the stall amperage of the motor. If it's under 1 amp while holding it, you should be fine because this decoder can handle up to 2 amps peak and 1 amp constant. If it spikes over 2 amps when you grab it, that would be a good thing to know before burning up a decoder. Those instructions are in the Digittrax manual. They also mention a resister you can put in series to the motor to limit the current draw if you are still uncertain. The value of the resister is also mentioned it in the manual. (All of the manuals are available on line at Digitrax.com (I don't work for them.) ) The second thing is I think you are running that locomotive long hood forward and I believe that's backward. The engineers like to see where they are going. I might be wrong but.... Most switch engines I believe operate that way too with the short hood forward. PS. That was a killer purchase for $5. I mean fantastic!
Greeting Young Sir,.....since I've started binge watching your channel my long forgotten passion for model railroading has been reignited. Thank you, for posting. New Subscriber.
Hey smt I have been watching your rebuilds it inspired me to try and rebuild some units I have sitting around I just got a unit done tonight she is a athern Genesis uint 2315 Willamina from the Portland and Western witch is a railroad I live by she still need body work but she runs and Everything thanks for posting all your rebuild videos I'll keep u posted on the units hope to see more of your videos have a great day and hope to hear from u
Hi, SMT, as I know the first 4 decoders, Digitracks came out with were not the best and at the beginning of the DCC conversion glad you solved the issues, great to see that Santa Fe RS3 running again, keep them rolling for your collection and wonderful repairs you do on engines you buy even if at times some you don't succeed they can be used for spare parts. Cheers.
I always wondered if such a thing could exist in a model train. It would be awesome if they could make one compatible with model air craft two stroke diesel.
I bought 8 Hobbytown RSD-5’s Santa Fe’s about 2yrs ago at a resale shop. 40 bucks! With correct box’s! All look identical to that one. Cleaned the wheels and they run like champs. The guy said they’d been there for years. He threw in a Bowser Mikado w/tender. He thought it was a toy…😂🤣
Before you conclude that there's a short, make sure the wheels are cleaned!! Also: the high amp Pittman DC70 motor won't work well with a DCC decoder. Best to replace motor or rip out the decoder.
SMT I notice you used the term "bearing" but what I think you mean is Bolster. The bolster is the centerpoint that a truck; whether a loco power truck or a freightcar truck; pivots on. The other half is the Centerpin.Luv the growl of the old Hobbytown drives, from before days of DCC and sound. A new fav on your layout for me.
I remember the CN RS-3 you did. I bet a drybrushing on the trucks will make that locomotive look more awesome. I saw a similar one to yours on Facebook weathered. I did like the patch painting of flat and gloss.
I got to say that is the coolest but oddest booking drive system I've ever seen on a locomotive. What a great fix, I agree with you I would convert it back over the DC because the DCC decoder could be overloaded with the motor Etc. That double driveshaft and clutch mechanism with the flywheel is quite a unique looking thing
In Australia, the New South Wales government railways, bought 40 × 6 axle RS3 ALCo locomotives, in the very eary 1950's. The class leader has been recently been restored, and runs special tours. Its initial use was to pull the Royal Train, with Queen Elizabeth 2nd, when she visited here in 1956(?) I think it was. Maybe '54. But 4001 and 4002 did the job.
The clutches were added to allow the motor to spin up before starting to turn the gears/wheels to stop jerky starts and stops. While this was great in theory, getting them to operate correctly was somewhat hit and miss as adjustments were generally beyond the comprehension of the average railway modeller.
Those ground frame connections are often forgotten by people, and they cause hidden problems not often seen. Athearns suffer from this problem, but it's an easy fix.
Just found your site and I really like what you have done..!! Love watching you trouble shooting the engines, as I use to have N scale train set..too small to work on.. :/
RSDs were used on the Trans-Iran railway, by USTC in 1943-45, from Bandar Abbas to Tehran, where transshipment occurred to Soviet 5 foot Gauge, on to Tashkent, in Central Asia. Some of the RSD were supplied with 5 foot Trucks, and after the war the USSR copied the design for a general freight loco, and used it into the 1980s ( Article in "Trains" magazine)
A bargain at $35 Cdn; and you got the rarer 12 wheel drive model. Several types of clutches have been used over the years by Hobbytown. The type you have can be repaired, if needed, with a rubber stopper for an old style water valve found at many hardware stores. You notch it like what is there now. A fine iocomotive and a real puller with that 12 wheel drive.
it would pull about the same as an 8-wheel loco assuming it weighs the same- you would need to add more sprung weight for the additional drive wheels as per mark williams comment regarding individual wheel loading.
I use dh123s in anything I put a silent decoder in. I’m not sure who said they can’t handle amperage, they are rated at 1.5amps continuous and 2 amp peak. I’ve got ten or so and never had one fail. I use them in athearn blue box conversions and they are stupendous. Very nice hobbytown rs!
You added a DCC decoder to an Athern blue box and you showed how to remove the brush clip and said be careful not to lose the spring because it goes shooting out of the train. I thought that was great but then you decided to wire onto the same clip without removing it from the train. I was cringing because I've melted the plastic underneath the contact and it would never stay back on. It was most upsetting. I never made that mistake again from that point on every time I add a wire to that piece I just remove it and solder it while it's off the train. I just wanted to mention that. Most people don't have spare motors after they melt the one they are working on. I also watched Mr. DCC and he melted a motor he was soldering. He also showed how to remove the clip and he still left it on when he soldered his wire. He took the clip off and remolded it with his fingers while the plastic was still soft. Most people would just lose it after the piece shoots off while soldering. Now, where's that spring?
I've never seen one... but that is a centrifugal clutch. If made of rubber... I would suggest, soaking it in a very light oil... Brake Fluid or Power Steering fluid, over night. The fluid will clean it and rejuvenate the clutch membrane.
My first thought was that it was losing ground due to the intermittent failure. There also seems to be a body laying by the track in the corner, were they hit by a train or the car? Might want to feed your cattle, some appear to have died! Just kidding, another great rescue of an old engine!
The clutch is an old school DC power way of allowing your locomotive to start and stop gradually or to creep along at a low speed. In essence, it does what a DCC decoder does ...so I question the point of having the combo of clutch and DCC. Seems redundant. Yes, I know a decoder has other features but does the clutch add anything when combined with a decoder? Why not just a flywheel? Btw, for anyone not familiar with Hobbytown, they are in business and their drives can be ordered to your performance specifications: Choose either open frame or can motor. Flywheels or clutches or neither. Customize the length of your chassis. Choose your side frames. I'm not sure but you used to be able to choose freight or passenger gearing and brass or nylon gears in the tower.
you are right, jeff. i would defeat that clutch and install sound in that thing, but the motor is a dog and it would be tough to remotor the way its mounted to the frame. also, the motor ground cannot be isolated from the frame with that scheme, so the decoder is at risk for fatal short-circuiting....
I've found "cold" solder joints can cause the same issue.. A cold solder joint is caused by over current... which causes over heat to a solder joint and can create the same symptoms. Back step....you may find the original decoder is fine. You identified and isolated a ground issue between moving parts. That is normal on a high hour use engine.
@@tommurphy4307 I don't think Hobbytown of Boston ever produced an Alco RS-1. I've never seen one. The Alco RS-1 has a different cab like that on the Alco S1 S2 S4 but with a short hood in front of it and a smaller radius at the roof line. Not only that, the turbo exhaust stack is much closer to the cab on the RS-1 and the step in front of the cab at the short hood end on the walkway isn't there on the RS-1.
Yea I noticed that my engines are noisy once I put the shell back on, put windows in one and it went from the quietest engine too rhe one with most sound, GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU 🤔🤗🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃
Hi , I just wanted to point out to you . clean the backside of the wheels as well . this is where they have pickups riding on them . you need to put clips on your lead wires . great content in your videos !
not needed- the wear between the wheels and wipers will preclude any obstruction with connectivity- especially with brass wheels and phosphor-bronze wipers, but its important to put parts back exactly where they were and to not disturb the wipers while shopping the thing.
ARSF had 10 RSD4's and 52 RSD5's. This is a RSD5 early in its career with the air cooled turbocharger (stack running lengthwise) that proved a failure and was almost universally replaced by a water cooled one (stack running across the hood). This fiasco did a lot to destroy ALCO's creditability and led to bitter relations between ALCO and GE, which built the turbo, and GE dissolving the ALCO-GE partnership
What you have there is Hobbytown's centrifugal clutch flywheel, which was an early method of adding more realistic control and longer coasting. When tuned just right, you rev up the motor as if starting the diesel engine to get moving, then back off the power a bit as you get up to speed. Once the power is cut, the rubber clutch collapses and the flywheel coasts freely without resistance from the motor, and you have to account for the coasting distance to make sure it stops where you want. Tuning and controlling them is a bit of an art!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on this loco. I have never seen a clutch in an HO scale locomotive before so this was all new to me. Seems like an interesting concept, the only major flaw I could see would be it wearing down or dry rotting.
@@SMTMainline cool
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for that great information. I have never seen a clutch setup before. It seems like a little OVER-engineering but very cool. Someone was thinking way outside the box. Was that a VARNEY brand loco?
@@itsnotfunanymore It was a locomotive by hobbytown.
It's an Alco RSD5. They were never as common as the Alco RS3 but they did share the same body and prime mover.
yeah SMT RS1 thr 3 are 4 axle engines RSc4 and RSD5 are 6 axles! boo yea
Thanks for answering my question :)
they were never direct competitors within the make. the RSD's were indicated for lighter-rail right-of-ways. it was purely a matter of rail-loading- you HAD to have the 12-wheel units for use on certain trackage.
I thought when the RS-3 went to Brazil they had the 3rd axle added to the trucks???
“Let’s see if OUR efforts paid off” Hey, glad WE could help. Team effort. I’m impressed, I would have given it to some kid with a booming YT channel after the first attempt. You never give up. Well done MacGyver.
Haha, thanks! By the end I just about was ready to get rid of it though lol.
well, a good motor man SHOULDN'T give up until he exhausts all possibilities
Great job on restoring this loco to run again! Your videos are always intriguing on bringing locomotive back to life to run again.
Thanks
Once again your experience knowledge, and patience burn right through. Great job!
Thank you!
Another great restoration. Yes indeed, the old Hobbtown units were growlers and loved to draw current. That is just the way it was...old school railroading. I think most every road had these Alco units doing everything under the sun from main line to short line to switching. They were indeed the jack of all trades. Try a double head lashup for a jaw dropping experience. Enjoyed every minute. Thanks
I'll give them credit for using quality parts. I've yet to see one completely bite the dust.
Great video. That is actually an ALCO RSD-4/5, and the flywheel is a flywheel and clutch. Hobbytown locomotives set the standard for the day, being long lasting, reliable, smooth running and powerful, so you got yourself quite a find there. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Thanks for sharing!
interestingly the clutch scheme didn't fail or else i would call it 'over-engineered'. i'd still be tempted to fill that thing with glue and be done with it, once and for all....
Good job sorting it out, love the drive system been in and out of many model trains, never seen anything like that before 👌
It's a super interesting design, that's for sure.
Great job Wizard Harrison you never give up I love your persistence.👍👌🇨🇦
That old Hobbytown RSD5 is still a pretty good loco. Built well, and with a little Harrison TLS....runs pretty well, too!
the clutch thing is dookie and so is the driveshaft between the trucks
Santa Fe got these for helper(Banking to Brits) service up to Raton Pass in New Mexico. They were assigned to Trinidad, CO and Albuquerque. (Where you had to make that oh, so critical left turn.)
A well placed Bugs ref always deserves a thumbs up.
Thanks for sharing this information. Are any still in service there?
@@SMTMainline as far as I know the last one that was in revenue service was working as a switcher for for a grain elevator near Harvard Illinois and was retired from service about 10 years ago and is now at Illinois Railway Museum repainted in it's original CNW livery at least I thought that was what I read when the unit was donated.
@@SMTMainline The Santa Fe sold off the last of their RSD5’s in the late 1960’s. An RSD5, albeit of Chicago & North Western heritage, operates at a museum in Illinois.
One of the last RSD-5's is in Ely, NV at the Nevada Northern.
Alco RSD5. Great video. Hobbytown models were years ahead of their time.
They sure were, so many interesting features.
i would call that motor a dinosaur, but the rest of it seems to be well-made.
Great video! Your repair videos are helping me repair my trains!
That's awesome!
Thanks again SMT your content is just truly amazing.
Hi Harrison that makes sense going back to DC power take it from an old man conventional makes better sense nice fix great little engine!!!
Straight DC is what it was meant to run on so I think it only makes sense.
maybe thats my problem- old age- i thought i was just weird- the guys at my club call me the 'DC-rapidos motor guy'
Love the way you fix trains your info is really helpful!!!
Thank you!
Alco RSC and RSD loco's were RS loco's with extra axle's to spread weight. They allowed diesels to be used on branch lines with 40-90# track. Track weight is pounds per yard. Modern track is 110-130#. Once grain hauling switched to covered/cylinder hopper hauling light branch lines went away.
Thanks for sharing.
Seen some things Harrison&I've never seen a drive like that. Interesting piece.
Highly unusual but pretty nice to work on.
I’ve been looking forward for the restoration of this locomotive. Looks interesting and I can’t believe there’s dcc in that 🤷♂️
Not something I would expect in such a locomotive.
Excellent. Your videos are very satisfying to watch!
you have one of the most impressive and facinating ho collections i thik i have ever seen! you have a lot of the same locos and rolling stock pieces i have. i find very interesting watching model train videos to to see who has the same or similar things that i have in both o gauge and ho and how much i have in common with my fellow model railroaders!
Thank you very much!
I am catching up with your videos. I have an Atlas S2 that I have rebuilt. I did so with the intention of putting a sound DCC system in. Once I tuned it up and got it running again, it was exceptionally quiet without the body shell. Perfect for a sound unit. When I reinstalled the shell it was noisy just like your RSD. I took the shell off and lined it with masking tape to stop the noise from bouncing around. It worked. The engine immediately was quiet. The shell was acting like a speaker baffle. It now has a Tsunami II sound unit with a sugar cube speaker and a current keeper, and it is a great engine that I use a lot on my switching layout. Try the electrical tape sometime on one of your noisier engines. Maybe it will work. Your video's are really fun to watch.
Great job getting that RS running again.
Good job! And good filming / commentating / editing too, by the way! TH-cam brought me here, but your videos got me to pull out my dads old Lionel steam locos from about 52 out of there boxes where they have been sitting for decades!
Harrison,
First of all, if you check the motor with a volt/ohm meter you can check the stall amperage. Usually this would be done before the DCC decoder gets installed. If you ever added a DCC decoder to a "DCC Ready" locomotive, you may have removed a DUMMY plug that lets it operate on DC. That is a really great way of determining power issues with a unfamiliar loco. This also a great way of testing amp draw without rewiring the train. Just pull out the decoder, plug in the dummy and test the amp draw. I understand your volt/ohm meter has broken leads but it is one of the most important tools for model railroading. You can get one for FREE at Harbor Freight with their monthly coupon or just pay the normal $5. and get it now. It's cheaper than buying new test leads for your broken meter.
You will use the amp meter ALL OF THE TIME and the continuity tester all the time. This will become your most valuable tool for all electrical tests. You won't believe how much time it will save you trying to figure out what wire goes where. You can even test continuity between the front trucks and the rear. You don't need a fancy meter for the railroad, just the $5 (sometimes Free) red multi-meter from Harbor freight. It works great and it comes with a FREE 9 volt battery already installed.
(I am a huge fan of DCC. It is the BEST way to consist several locomotives together and have them work flawlessly together. You can even run a DCC and a DC loco in the same consist and have them work together. There is no way I would ever remove a Decoder from a loco. They always work far better with them. They motors are much quieter with DCC and have far better performance. That slow crawl speed you love is much easier to do with DCC. That little decoder can do a lot more than you give it credit for. (Lighting effects like exhaust spark flicker, Mars lights, ditch lights that go back and forth, even firebox flicker on steam engines plus on-off control of a smoke stack!)
Using DC power, put an amp meter in series on the motor and get the motor to full speed. Now grab the shaft and stop it with your fingers. Watch the amp meter and see how high it goes. That is the stall amperage of the motor. If it's under 1 amp while holding it, you should be fine because this decoder can handle up to 2 amps peak and 1 amp constant. If it spikes over 2 amps when you grab it, that would be a good thing to know before burning up a decoder. Those instructions are in the Digittrax manual. They also mention a resister you can put in series to the motor to limit the current draw if you are still uncertain. The value of the resister is also mentioned it in the manual. (All of the manuals are available on line at Digitrax.com (I don't work for them.) )
The second thing is I think you are running that locomotive long hood forward and I believe that's backward. The engineers like to see where they are going. I might be wrong but.... Most switch engines I believe operate that way too with the short hood forward.
PS. That was a killer purchase for $5. I mean fantastic!
Thanks for the advice. Maybe it’s time I figure out how to test motors properly.
Greeting Young Sir,.....since I've started binge watching your channel my long forgotten passion for model railroading has been reignited.
Thank you, for posting.
New Subscriber.
It means a lot to hear that, welcome back to the hobby and thanks for joining the channel.
@@SMTMainline .....a mulitidude of gratitude. Peace and Blessings!
Hey smt I have been watching your rebuilds it inspired me to try and rebuild some units I have sitting around I just got a unit done tonight she is a athern Genesis uint 2315 Willamina from the Portland and Western witch is a railroad I live by she still need body work but she runs and Everything thanks for posting all your rebuild videos I'll keep u posted on the units hope to see more of your videos have a great day and hope to hear from u
Hi, SMT, as I know the first 4 decoders, Digitracks came out with were not the best and at the beginning of the DCC conversion glad you solved the issues, great to see that Santa Fe RS3 running again, keep them rolling for your collection and wonderful repairs you do on engines you buy even if at times some you don't succeed they can be used for spare parts. Cheers.
I've heard that. I think I will just leave this one as is until it burns out.
Hobbytown centrifical clutch! Classic. 🚆
I always wondered if such a thing could exist in a model train. It would be awesome if they could make one compatible with model air craft two stroke diesel.
I bought 8 Hobbytown RSD-5’s Santa Fe’s about 2yrs ago at a resale shop. 40 bucks! With correct box’s! All look identical to that one. Cleaned the wheels and they run like champs. The guy said they’d been there for years. He threw in a Bowser Mikado w/tender. He thought it was a toy…😂🤣
What a deal, I'm amazed no one else brought them for such a price. Good for you :)
@@SMTMainline right! Those orange box’s stand out.
amazing that they didn't bother to use plated wheels after all the designing that went into it.
@@tommurphy4307 right…..
Why a great transformation! Glad you were able to save it
Thank you!
Stopped watching for an month and surprised I've missed 3 restoring though I'd watch every restoring train videos
Before you conclude that there's a short, make sure the wheels are cleaned!!
Also: the high amp Pittman DC70 motor won't work well with a DCC decoder. Best to replace motor or rip out the decoder.
yes i concur with that- it looks like a real power hog
We got a runner! Serenity!
Great job harrison.happy new year everyone!!
I love how you show to repair the trains oñ utube i am learning a lot
SMT I notice you used the term "bearing" but what I think you mean is Bolster. The bolster is the centerpoint that a
truck; whether a loco power truck or a freightcar truck; pivots on. The other half is the Centerpin.Luv the growl of the
old Hobbytown drives, from before days of DCC and sound. A new fav on your layout for me.
I'd have to admit, that is a good looking train iv seen in a while also it sounds like a car
I really like the design and weathered paint scheme.
@@SMTMainline detail is the key to have a good looking train
it does sound like a big-scale slot car- probably because the motor is solid-mounted to the frame and the shell becomes its 'speaker'
I remember the CN RS-3 you did. I bet a drybrushing on the trucks will make that locomotive look more awesome. I saw a similar one to yours on Facebook weathered. I did like the patch painting of flat and gloss.
Awesome!
I got to say that is the coolest but oddest booking drive system I've ever seen on a locomotive. What a great fix, I agree with you I would convert it back over the DC because the DCC decoder could be overloaded with the motor Etc. That double driveshaft and clutch mechanism with the flywheel is quite a unique looking thing
It's certainly unusual.
@@SMTMainline harrison- i think that locomotive drive scheme in finer scales would be a nightmare!
Hobby town
Man I miss hobby town in my area
Great brand.
but you still have hileman brewing? i used to drink wiedemann my dad used to buy it. good cheap beer- probably gone now.
Nice RSD5 locomotive.
Good job in the repair.
DCC no sound.
Great restoration, SMT! I have to admit, I'm quite surprised to see a DCC decoder in that older engine.
Thanks
In Australia, the New South Wales government railways, bought 40 × 6 axle RS3 ALCo locomotives, in the very eary 1950's. The class leader has been recently been restored, and runs special tours. Its initial use was to pull the Royal Train, with Queen Elizabeth 2nd, when she visited here in 1956(?) I think it was. Maybe '54. But 4001 and 4002 did the job.
Well done Harrison…….she was a bit of a challenge but you did a great job 👍
Thanks a bunch!
What a cool little motor!
not even- there are better chinese-made motors nowadays
Similar looking NSWR 40 class was built at MLW using an Alco RSD4/5
Nice Job! Greetings from heaven! 🙏🏻
I believe it is a RSD 4/5 Nice video Hal
Never had a problem with DigiTrax 123 decoders, but the 121s can be a problem, I had one start on fire and melt down. The 123 has a circuit breaker.
I haven't had an issue with one personally but I've heard quite a few stories about them burning up.
The clutches were added to allow the motor to spin up before starting to turn the gears/wheels to stop jerky starts and stops. While this was great in theory, getting them to operate correctly was somewhat hit and miss as adjustments were generally beyond the comprehension of the average railway modeller.
Good work on a classic engine.
Great video lots of information
Glad it was helpful!
Those ground frame connections are often forgotten by people, and they cause hidden problems not often seen. Athearns suffer from this problem, but it's an easy fix.
It wasn't the first thing I thought to check, I will know better for future projects.
Winner winner chicken dinner, You're the man
Nice job fixing the engine.
ATSF 2151 is an RSD5 built 06/1953.
Just found your site and I really like what you have done..!! Love watching you trouble shooting the engines, as I use to have N scale train set..too small to work on.. :/
Those N scale locomotives can be challenging, so many small parts.
...and HO is Horribly Oversized- whats a mother to do?
you have to get small first
What you've got there is a beautiful 6 axle RSD 5/6.
Never heard of them until now/
it is an rsd-5 according to my diesel spotters guide. the number is even in the proper prototype #s
Fascinating
If anyone can make any model locomotive run again, it's Scrumptious Model Trains Mainline.
Haha, thanks
i saw a lot of them rs engines in the fuller heights train yard when i was a kid!
Well done video.
RSDs were used on the Trans-Iran railway, by USTC in 1943-45, from Bandar Abbas to Tehran, where transshipment occurred to Soviet 5 foot Gauge, on to Tashkent, in Central Asia.
Some of the RSD were supplied with 5 foot Trucks, and after the war the USSR copied the design for a general freight loco, and used it into the 1980s
( Article in "Trains" magazine)
Awesome fix
rs and f serias engines are among my favorite of the classic diesels!
The RSD4 and RSD5 bodies were so close that Atlas made one shell and called it both an RSD 4/5.
That's interesting, must have saved slightly on tooling.
Great job!
Best slow speed locos ever.
notice how they stay away from finer-scaled stuff.
A bargain at $35 Cdn; and you got the rarer 12 wheel drive model. Several types of clutches have been used over the years by Hobbytown. The type you have can be repaired, if needed, with a rubber stopper for an old style water valve found at many hardware stores. You notch it like what is there now. A fine iocomotive and a real puller with that 12 wheel drive.
it would pull about the same as an 8-wheel loco assuming it weighs the same- you would need to add more sprung weight for the additional drive wheels as per mark williams comment regarding individual wheel loading.
I use dh123s in anything I put a silent decoder in. I’m not sure who said they can’t handle amperage, they are rated at 1.5amps continuous and 2 amp peak. I’ve got ten or so and never had one fail. I use them in athearn blue box conversions and they are stupendous. Very nice hobbytown rs!
I'm glad to hear that. Many have told me they are rated at 1/4th of an amp.
You added a DCC decoder to an Athern blue box and you showed how to remove the brush clip and said be careful not to lose the spring because it goes shooting out of the train. I thought that was great but then you decided to wire onto the same clip without removing it from the train. I was cringing because I've melted the plastic underneath the contact and it would never stay back on. It was most upsetting. I never made that mistake again from that point on every time I add a wire to that piece I just remove it and solder it while it's off the train. I just wanted to mention that. Most people don't have spare motors after they melt the one they are working on. I also watched Mr. DCC and he melted a motor he was soldering. He also showed how to remove the clip and he still left it on when he soldered his wire. He took the clip off and remolded it with his fingers while the plastic was still soft. Most people would just lose it after the piece shoots off while soldering. Now, where's that spring?
About the fibreglass pencil. You get them in 2mm as well. Would be great to get into really small spaces and the wheels.
incroyable vidéo
I've never seen one... but that is a centrifugal clutch. If made of rubber... I would suggest, soaking it in a very light oil... Brake Fluid or Power Steering fluid, over night. The fluid will clean it and rejuvenate the clutch membrane.
That actually looks like the perfect donor for a Crippled Mary repro... interesting.
1:53 LMAO that shaft sticking out like that is something you dont see every day
My first thought was that it was losing ground due to the intermittent failure. There also seems to be a body laying by the track in the corner, were they hit by a train or the car? Might want to feed your cattle, some appear to have died! Just kidding, another great rescue of an old engine!
I should have looked more carefully, will know for next time
Watching your TH-cam videos make me want to do a restoration of a older locomotive, and I am not even a Model Train guy.?? {yet}
its a great hobby and, for me, a great way to stay out of trouble (one of my bad habits is building older datsuns into stoplight cars).
You give these engines new paint jobs? As a fellow model railroader I appreciate everything you do.
silence....
RSD4/5, I have one that looks almost exactly like that, except I replaced the shell with a custom one.
An Atlas one?
@@SMTMainline | A Kato one I have, I made it exactly like the last surviving RSD4, KCCX 201.
The clutch is an old school DC power way of allowing your locomotive to start and stop gradually or to creep along at a low speed. In essence, it does what a DCC decoder does ...so I question the point of having the combo of clutch and DCC. Seems redundant. Yes, I know a decoder has other features but does the clutch add anything when combined with a decoder? Why not just a flywheel? Btw, for anyone not familiar with Hobbytown, they are in business and their drives can be ordered to your performance specifications: Choose either open frame or can motor. Flywheels or clutches or neither. Customize the length of your chassis. Choose your side frames. I'm not sure but you used to be able to choose freight or passenger gearing and brass or nylon gears in the tower.
you are right, jeff. i would defeat that clutch and install sound in that thing, but the motor is a dog and it would be tough to remotor the way its mounted to the frame. also, the motor ground cannot be isolated from the frame with that scheme, so the decoder is at risk for fatal short-circuiting....
I've found "cold" solder joints can cause the same issue.. A cold solder joint is caused by over current... which causes over heat to a solder joint and can create the same symptoms. Back step....you may find the original decoder is fine. You identified and isolated a ground issue between moving parts. That is normal on a high hour use engine.
Awesome Job!!!!!
That's a correct body for a New Haven prototype but New Haven never had the RSD5.
It's too bad, I would love to see one in their paint scheme.
the shell may be from a hobbytown rs-1
@@tommurphy4307 I don't think Hobbytown of Boston ever produced an Alco RS-1. I've never seen one. The Alco RS-1 has a different cab like that on the Alco S1 S2 S4 but with a short hood in front of it and a smaller radius at the roof line. Not only that, the turbo exhaust stack is much closer to the cab on the RS-1 and the step in front of the cab at the short hood end on the walkway isn't there on the RS-1.
@@williammcgeehan3424 they made an rs-3, but you are right- no rs-1 is listed.
Yea I noticed that my engines are noisy once I put the shell back on, put windows in one and it went from the quietest engine too rhe one with most sound, GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU 🤔🤗🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃
I should try to improve it.
Rub a thin layer of silicone on the inside of the shell. It will kill the noise.
@@Ghauster i think you just found a new use for flex-seal! call the flex-seal guy....
That clutch is similar to the corn collar system on a nitro rc car.
I like that one!😊
Hey Serenity, how about fitting some lights on this vintage beauty. Well done on the sorting out.
I think she deserves some. I will probably had some when I remove the decoder.
@@SMTMainline I think she deserves them also!
The farm animals @ 18:50 have died off it seems
I hit my head on the table lol
Hi , I just wanted to point out to you . clean the backside of the wheels as well . this is where they have pickups riding on them . you need to put clips on your lead wires . great content in your videos !
not needed- the wear between the wheels and wipers will preclude any obstruction with connectivity- especially with brass wheels and phosphor-bronze wipers, but its important to put parts back exactly where they were and to not disturb the wipers while shopping the thing.
Perhaps the DH123 is still usable? Awesome Overhaul!!👍
Yeah,
I think it’s still fine.
well done
Awesome 👌
Harrison its a RSD5
Thanks
happy halloween smt!
success! thats the way uh huh we like it!
Hobbytown makes great kits and the engines will pull your entire layout and the house over.
Given the type of motor and several gear reductions I can imagine
the unplated brass wheels still have me scratching my noggin...
Eeey a dcc locomotive!
ARSF had 10 RSD4's and 52 RSD5's. This is a RSD5 early in its career with the air cooled turbocharger (stack running lengthwise) that proved a failure and was almost universally replaced by a water cooled one (stack running across the hood). This fiasco did a lot to destroy ALCO's creditability and led to bitter relations between ALCO and GE, which built the turbo, and GE dissolving the ALCO-GE partnership
Thanks for sharing.
..and that would help explain all the smoke alcos are famous for.... fun fact- nissan learned the same lesson the hard way with the 280ZX turbo.
Engine sounds like its has a manual transmission!? I miss those days! 😊
Three on the tree!