Arduino Shift Light V2 Tachometer from Chippernut
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- www.chippernut.com
Chippernut 2015
Version 2.21
Racing DIY tachometer Shift Light
Hardware - mostly from Adafruit.
(1) Arduino Uno
(1) 7 segment w/ I2C backpack www.adafruit.co...
(2) NeoPixel Sticks www.adafruit.co...
(1) 7805 TO-220 5V regulator (for neopixels)
** WILL NEED HEATSINKwww.jameco.com/...
(1) Rotary Encoder
(1) 47k Resistor
(1) 10k Resistor
(1) 330 ohm Resistor
(1) 1000uF Capacitor
(1) PNP Transistor, 2N3906 **
** This intercepts the cars ECU RPM square wave (can be found on OBD terminal) -- without it, the signal terminates through the arduino (caused my gauges to go to zero)
Instructions:
www.chippernut...
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So I have finally made one of these, and I gotta say, it just works! No issues whatsoever! Thanks for making this available man!
Thanks!! I''m glad you like it. Post a video of your final install, i'd love to see it.
+Chippernut I will do once my solderboard/breadboard thing comes, right now its a complete mess of wires, i wanted to make sure I could get it working before I spent a lot of time making it neat! I got the GA2114 Headunit cause of your review and its amazing, now this shift light!
Cool! I hope you like that headunit. Good luck w/ the rest of the shift-light project, i hope it goes well.
Wow that is one crazy shift light tons of work has gone into that! Very cool!
can't wait to check this version out! didn't have the patience to do much troubleshooting on v1, ended up using the 7seg as a gps based hud-ish speedometer haha. Looks like you went all out on this one, will post results when i get it together, Thanks for sharing!
+Tom D'Auria Awesome! I can't wait to see the final build! Thanks for commenting.
Looking forward to trying to get my hands on one of these!
Signed up to be ready for your updates.
Top work mate - great project!
+Uncle F Thanks!!! Only one more week, I'll send out an email. :)
amazing! I just ordered the kit from your website. excited!
Dear if you made ver 2.4 or 3.0 and wanted to connect this wireless input signal and not to mess up with car or bike wiring or to not make obd port busy then use A3144 HALL EFFECT SENSOR it detects magnitic ignition coil pulses wirelessly i made it its working fine.😀
Parabéns pelo trabalho amigo, vejo que você compartilha duas paixões comigo, eletrônica e mecânica. sucesso.
Your code is excellent mate. Thanks for your work
Tsikriteas Spyros Thanks!
Chippernut Can we add another '7 led display' to display the current gear we are in? is it difficult?
Awesome man! Keep up the good work!
It works for cars that do not have ECU?
Man, I would love to get the unassembled version to send to New Zealand but you don't ship it here. Would love to have this as part of my DIY
hello bro, I have just finished this project, but the results are not satisfactory because when I connect the signal input to the motorcycle pulser, the circuit does not display the appropriate value and even tends to display the wrong value. and when I touch the signal input part of the circuit it displays strange values too. Is there something wrong with my circuit?
Sorry for my bad english, i use gtranslate
This is a great idea! Could you get the Photobucket photos up again?
Thanks for informing me. I checked my site when I learned of photobucket's policy change, but didn't check the forums. I'll get it updated this week. Thanks again!
Thank you!
Hi. It will reset do default settings after turn off +12V ?
Before we start the engine its still blinks ?
Arduino automaticly adress more or less than 16 LEDs ?
Great questions. No it will not reset. All settings are stored permanently in EEPROM. This does require a running engine, or a simulated signal in order to function. I have an "RPM Generator" code on my website that is meant for bench-testing. And yes, the arduino can address a large number of LEDS, but the power supply is only rated for up to 25.
hello and we had talked in the past about the Regulating of ppr to become less than 1 to I can Regulating in a single cylinder engine . fix it ?
The link says the server is down. Can you please revive it back on .
Fixed: www.chippernut.com/tech.html#/
Thanks for the heads up!
this is so insane dude!!
Hello good time
Is it possible to add a separate menu and an output for a few neopixels to this program to adjust the instrument cluster light with neopixel ws2812, which turns red and flashes as the engine speed increases?
I also want to build this shift light , but I do not know where I have to pick the wire of the RPM Signal, because I want to run this like in your video without a motor or something like that.
how do you convert the pulse for the bar graph display? does the arduino reads the frequency and sends directly to the led display or you convert into voltage firs?
I love this project, I wish I could just buy a finished unit.
+Jimmy Uy Thanks!! I will be selling kits and finished units soon. (probably 4-6 weeks). visit my site at chippernut.com if you enter your email i'll send out a notice when the store is activated (not spam!! I rarely send out emails). Thanks for commenting though. I appreciate it!
Hello, in my car with a phonic wheel, would it take an rmp signal from the sensor of the same? or could you use a hall sensor?
Greetings, I love the project, I enjoyed doing it but when I wanted to put more leds like 60 neopixels in this part "NUMPIXELS = constrain(NUMPIXELS, 0, 32); " ; the first thing I configure in nleds to 60 leds but when I select it then it happens that the display turns off, then I go to test the leds it does not turn on, if someone can help me with this problem I would appreciate it
plese help me to connect rotary encoder cuz not explane the pine when draw the circuit
Is there any way to link it to a car with OBD1? How can I tell which port to intercept for the RPM signal? Thanks
Can you tell me where i have to pick the clk, dt, sw, vcc, of the rotary encoder to the Arduino uno?
Goo day, can you help me. I build one of your project. And yes it did good. But when I tried it on rpm simulator or on my bike. The rpm changes on itself. I think it's because of the noise or something. I did try change the setting and it js just the same. Did you encounter this problem?
this is sooo cool nothing like anything else available on the market. followed you guide on your web but ive hit brick wall nothing powers up? does the code need changing? tried rpm sim.
+Dean Pasic Thanks! I'm sorry you're having an issue.. I'm not quite sure what it could be. Could you make a post at Chippernut and post some pictures? That wil help trying to diagnose it. Sounds like it might be a power issue. The code shouldn't need to be changed. Do you see the little green light on the Arduino?
wish you had this with an obd2 connector I can just slap on and off for track days! I would buy.
+E90 M3 #86 Someone in our forums has developed this -- he's working on updating it for version 2... there's also another light similar that runs off OBD -- petemills.blogspot.com/2014/07/blueshift-openxc-led-tachometer.html
+E90 M3 #86 www.chippernut.com/blog/openxc-tachometer
Which shield do I need to use to read out the data from a CANBUS?
Hi I'm new to Arduino, I only know a little bit about it.
I want to make a shift light, but without a NeoPixel Stick. Instead I want to use about 4 red LED bulbs. So one turns on at 3k, another at 4k, the 3rd at 5k and the last at 6k and make them all flash at over 6k.
So how would I go about doing that, what will I need? What won't I need in terms of coding and hardware?
Many Thanks and great work BTW :D
hello wile it be possible for u to help me to yous a Diymall 0.96" Inch I2c IIC Serial 128x64 Oled LCD LED display or a 4-Digit Display (D4056A) only by Catalex pleas
Wow this looks awesome! I guess this will be my project over the Xmas break.
Quick question can you set it the the sequencing moves from the outside to the middle then flash ?
+RotorRian thanks for stopping by!! I'm glad you like my project - feel free to check out my site, it has all the instructions, code, etc (plus a good forums for people to ask questions during setup). Yes, this is possible to animate from the outside-in, but not currently coded. I'll have to work out the math to figure it out. I'm building up stock now to start selling a kit through my site, but currently all the parts are available through adafruit(dot)com
This is what I was coming to ask as well. Did this get added recently? It would be a really cool feature to have (it's how I've seen in a lot of racecars). I think it's easier to watch two light sets getting closer than two light sets moving away from each other. IE as you're watching in peripheral, when the lights are getting closer you know how much longer until they touch, vs if they are going away you're not sure when they'll reach the outside ends.
Either way, great work on this! There aren't any options like this out there that look this good!
Cool!! Thanks for the nice comments. You make a good point, I will add this new animation (outside to center) in the next code update. I'll probably release the next code in a month or two. I'll also be adding inductive pickup functionality for those without electronically controlled ignition. Fun! Thanks again.
Great! I'm pretty new to the whole Arduino thing, but I'm guessing if I buy one of the v2.4 units now, when you release the new code I can just upload it to my v2.4 and it will add the new animation. Is that correct?
Correct. Uploading new code is pretty simple. All you'll need is the Arduino IDE (arduino.cc) and a USB cable. There's a ton of tutorials online, basically connect the arduino, open the IDE, open my latest code, push the upload button.. That's it. :)
display.setColon(False); code error
i built V1 for my 06 corvette, but haven't gotten around to installing yet. With this, I'll probably redo it with V2, but I would really like an outside towards center animation (planned on editing the addresses in the coding) but it's nice to see you building it into the menu system! Anyway to add this capability?
Cool! Yes V2 has quite a few improvements. The outside to center animation is slated for the next software release, but I don't have an ETA on that quite yet. I'm working to release it before 2017 for sure.
And where should I put the -12V wire? -> Because in the plan says that I have to use the +12V wire but where is the -12V?
Hi Mario,
+12V goes to your + battery positive (assuming it's a 12V battery)
-12V (or ground, - ) goes to the negative (black) battery post
The RPM signal varies from application to application -- you have to do research regarding your engine and vehicle to determine where to place this - it should be a 5-12V square wave signal, it will not work as an inductive/capacitive pickup, or on a cam/crank sensor. You will want to look for an RPM/Tachometer signal coming from your engine ECU
hey buddy im totally new to this arduino thing and looked at your instructions and pretty much couldnt understand it! is there a way you can help me out i really want to make this cheers
As this is my first ever project with arduino, i made custom single layer pcb, and everything works great :)
I wonder is there a way to add an option to Turn Off the LCD (set it brightness to zero if it is posoble) and leave only led sripe (NeoPixel) to work? For example hold down rotary button longer than 2 sec and turn off lcd.
Awesome! I'm glad it works well for you. Thanks for your interest. That's a fantastic idea! I'll see if I can incorporate it in the next code update. Thanks!
This is very nicely done! So much that I want to put it on my dirt bike. Only problem is the newer 4 stroke dirt bikes use EFI. It make .05ppr. I haven't looked at your source but can it be coded for a lower value than 1? And another question would be does the rpm input signal have to come from lets say a ecu pin-out or can I wrap a wire around my plug and pick up the pulse from there? I also did a little looking on my dirt bike wiring and I noticed I have a neutral switch incorp' in the engine but no neutral light so I will also be adding that to this project.
+RednecKxKidz Sorry for the delay in responding. A lower than 1 PPr will be available in the next code release, about 4-6 weeks out. I'd love to see your final installation, feel free to visit my forums at chippernut.com and post up some pictures!
+RednecKxKidz Oh- and yes, inductive pickup is an option - but it hasn't been widely tested. It is something I intend to have ironed out w/ the next code release. :)
does it work on a motor with 1 cylinder?
great looking project man. I have a few quick questions if that's ok and you wouldn't mind clarifying them for me.
1) is there any reason you couldn't power the arduino and draw 5v for the lights & display from the built in 5v pin?
2)is there a limit on the number of pixels you can use as I am intending to light up my whole dashboard with a long strip.
3) could the rotary encoder be replaced with 3 buttons (one left, one right and a select)?
Sorry if you've already answered these questions somewhere else.
Hello. Thanks for your interest. I'll do my best to answer your questions.
1) the arduinos regulator doesn't provide enough current for the LED strip. you need a seperate supply
2) the only limit is the current required, if you can get a larger 5V regulator, you can have as many as you want. Each LED can draw between 60-90mA at full white brightness. It adds up quickly.
3) Yes- you'd have to modify the code for it to work.
Hope this helps
Chippernut that's fantastic. I'll let you know how I get on.
Hey sorry for so many equations but can you make a wire plan for the rpm simulator because i don't know how to wire this correctly. Please only a simple plan how i have to wire this for the rpm simulator and what i need.
Thank you.
Hi Mario, Please see instruction manual located here: www.chippernut.com/uploads/2/5/3/5/25350363/shiftlight_v2-4_instructions.pdf the last page has overall wiring diagram.
Otherwise the schematics are on my forums. Hope this helps
- jon
Can I use any I2C 7 segment to make one of these?
But how have you done that in your video with the rpm, because there is also a rpm-simulator for the Arduino uno.
Yes - I use an RPM simulator for bench testing the shift light. Here's the information for that. www.chippernut.com/forums.html#/20141229/schematics-and-code-2-4468331/ Simply connect both grounds together (this is important) and pin 5 on the generator to the RPM input on the shiftlight
Hello. I'm interested in buying yours or making one based on your info. What wire do I use for RPM input coming from OBD2? I'm not aware of a specific "RPM" signal coming from the OBD2 in my 96 F150
Hello, Thanks for your interest. I would recommend Version 3 th-cam.com/video/3mxMW3ISimI/w-d-xo.html In my experience, Only in some instances is the RPM signal found via the OBD port. Usually you must tap a wire coming from the Engine Computer or Ignition module. It normally is used to drive a stock tachometer. I would recommend researching the forums to see where others have tapped the RPM signal for an aftermarket tachometer. The Chippernut Shift Light does not work via inductive/capacitive pickup (wrapping a wire around the spark wire). It only works with a 5v or 12v RPM signal. I hope this helps.
hello i would like to instal this to my honda prelude 1997 and i am not sure my car is "new" enough to have digital output for the tachometer any tips?
You may be correct. You could try an optoisolated circuit or a schmitt trigger to adapt the signal, but I currently don't have any components stocked to build these circuits. My apologies. Shoot me an email though via my contact page... I have another idea. www.chippernut.com/contact.html
This is project for a bike??? Or car??
Can u give me a circuit?
wasnt this on hackaday? love the video though!
I searched the internet and for 1 cylinder engine the PPR shoud be calibrated to 0.5 this is possible or only in 1, 2 , 3 ? THANKS
+Pratikakis Pan Sorry for the delay in responding. Yes. the next code release will have a lower than 1 PPR
+Chippernut Thank you to answer me. The issued of the new code will be done soon ?
+Pratikakis Pan The new code will coincide with the release of the Shift Light Kit - so about 4 weeks from today roughly.. If I complete it sooner, I'll post it on my site at Chippernut.com.
+Chippernut Thank you very much.
+Chippernut Hello. I would like to ask you about the issue of the new Code for the Shift Light who will gets ppr below 1 . Is Available ? Where can I find him ? Thank you very much!!
Max Number of Leds?
Hey dude, have you noticed that the rpm reading on the shift light is lower than your actual reading? For me it gets worse as the rpms are higher. I can hold it steady at 3000 rpms and the light will read 27-2800, and at 4000, it will only read 35-3600. I was just wondering if you have had a similar problem in your car. It makes things really inaccurate with the light going off on time. Also, if it helps, my motor is a mitsu 6g72
+JustKyzuuh There's the possibility for a slight misreading depending on the signal characteristics, but I hadn't experienced it nearly as bad as you -- mine was about 50 rpm off at redline. I plan to implement a 'fine tuning' feature in the next update that will remedy this. I'll do additional research on your engine and ECU to determine what exactly is causing this. Do you have it plugged into the ECU or are you doing inductive pickup off the ignition? thanks for letting me know!
Chippernut I'm pulling the signal from the ecu. Thanks for all your time and effort dude.
For testing purposes, I had the circuit built on a breadboard and was just testing it and making sure I pulled my signal from the right wire. I was using a 5v power source and didn't have the 12 volt part of the circuit at all. I don't think it would have an effect, but do you think that may be a possibility? would the transistor part of the circuit give a lower reading if it didn't have as much current running through it?
hi, i don't have much expirience with arduino, can i use TM1637 7segment module because i can't get ht16k33?
Yes - this new V2 is based on the TM1637. It's plug and play. See: www.chippernut.com/store/p16/DIY_Shift_Light_Kit_%28Unassembled%29_v2.41.html or use Ebay for orders outside of the US.
Thanks!!
- jon
hi, I am visited your website but I can not buy because you do not send away to Spain. You can send a "DIY Light Shift Kit (unassembled) v2.4"???? I found interesting and I would like to try. I write for this channel because I have not found any mail on the web.
A greeting.
+TheValleta42 Hi! I'm sorry about that. When you're in the check-out, select "europe" and then enter your address. You can always email me jon@chippernut.com thanks again!
- jon
How do you configure the dimmer pin in the menu with this version?..
Hello. The dimmer function was added in V2.4, but this video was made before that so the feature isn't don't show it. You adjust the dimmer by selecting the type of dimmer circuit in the car (high or low controlled) then the brightness level to dim to. It's basically the same as shown in the V3 video, but without the graphical screen. Hope this helps
hey, can I use 128x32 OLED instead of the 7 segment display?????
Yes, but you would need to rewrite significant portions of the code
How much would this kit be ? I really want exactly what you have in this video
+William Lugo Excellent question. That's the answer I'm working to solve right now. I'm trying to get the parts cost down enough so it's reasonable. Definitely below $100 for the un-assembled version. I'm working diligently to make the kit available soon, I'll make an announcement via email and on my blog. On my home-page I have an email newsletter field, (i rarely send out emails, so it's not spam). Thanks for stopping by!
I really dig this but I don't have time to do the work of building it and wiring it up. Is there a "good to go" kit or is there a parts list?
+volksbugly Thanks! I do plan to release a kit - timing will be around early 2016. The parts list is:
Hardware - mostly from Adafruit.
(1) Arduino Uno
(1) 7 segment w/ I2C backpack www.adafruit.com/products/881
(2) NeoPixel Sticks www.adafruit.com/products/1426
(1) 7805 TO-220 5V regulator (for neopixels)
** WILL NEED HEATSINKwww.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_786138_-1
(1) Rotary Encoder
(1) 47k Resistor
(1) 10k Resistor
(1) 330 ohm Resistor
(1) 1000uF Capacitor
(1) PNP Transistor, 2N3906 **
** This intercepts the cars ECU RPM square wave (can be found on OBD terminal) -- without it, the signal terminates through the arduino (caused my gauges to go to zero)
Instructions:
www.chippernut.com/forums.html#/20150817/schematics-and-code-3-4917820/
hope this helps
- jon
+Chippernut awesome I'll buy it when its ready. I currently am running a Megasquirt ECU full sequential CNP with wasted spark 4 cylinder. Till then I'll just watch the RPMS :D
+Chippernut oh maybe I will try to build this, looks pretty strait forward.
+volksbugly Cool! Yeah it's not too bad. A few basic components and you're on your way. If you have any questions, please drop me a line in the forums @ chippernut and I'll do my best to help.
Site is not working. Anyone have the copy of instructions?
That's odd. It's working on my end. Sorry for the difficulty. Try this link: www.chippernut.com/shift-light-v241.html#/
are you selling these i have a track e36 and have been looking for one but all this computer lingo is foreign too me
Thank you! Yes - visit my store at chippernut.com
Your only allowed to if the e36 doesn't have an LS in it! lol jk
TheBobbyB86 hahaha it has a turbo with 20psi there is no need for ls
Good man
Sorry if this question has been asked before and answered, but where do you get the signal for the RPM to input into the Arduino?
+Shane Napaul It varies from vehicle to vehicle - in most occasions, users will intercept an RPM signal from the vehicles ECU/ECM. In some cases, this goes to an existing tachometer in the gauge cluster. Otherwise you can also get the signal from a trigger to the coil, or inductive by wrapping a wire around the #1 Cylinder.
+Chippernut Thanks for the quick reply! So let's say I were to intercept the signal from the ECU, would there actually be a pin labelled something like tacho if i found the pinout of the vehicle?
+Shane Napaul Generally, Yes. In my experience it's usually called "tach" or "tacho" or "RPM", but again that varies.
+Chippernut Thank you! Also, do you still have the android head unit running? If so, how has it held up after you had the software issue and managed to reflash it?
+Shane Napaul Thanks Shane. Yes, I still have the Android unit - it's working fine, my only complaint is that Spotify isn't 100% stable on it, and I've lost my music a couple times now (the Wifi Antenna is really short, so I have to pull the unit out of the car to get my house Wifi). If you have decent Wifi near your car, it won't be an issue.
Hey do you know when you will be selling this in a kit or other? Would love one for my rally car
+Patrick Gruszka Hi! Thanks for stopping by. It should be soon -- I'm still testing the circuit board, which is about 2 weeks out, and then the final production run of boards, probably another 2 weeks.. so with a little luck, it should be about 4-6 weeks. Sorry it's taking so long -- I'm trying my best to get it ready before Spring.
Nah its all good im just asking when cause im gunna be done building the car in a wekk or so
do you know if i can get a prototype?
Hi Guys can i buy this from you h=guys or anyone selling
can I use arduino pro mini instead of this one?
+CyB3RW0rld89 Yes - although you will have to change a few pin assignments in the code. It should work just fine. Check out my info @ chippernut.com. :) thanks for stopping by!
+Chippernut thanks I will rather use nano board, now I know that I have to use ht16k33 backpack from adafruit, but can I use this neonpixel www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400991742234
Would this work on a rotary engine?
Excellent question. It has not been tested on a rotary, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work provided you have a good rpm signal. RPM signal should be a 5v-12v square wave, 50% duty cycle, frequency = RPM. generally this comes from a computer controlled ignition system as a means of diagnostic RPM display or instrument cluster display.
Would you set it to 2 ppr or 3?
I"m not sure. I'd have to research it. But w/ the ease of changing the PPR in the menu, I'm sure you could dial it in pretty quickly.
Hey, could it be me, or is the program sometimes slow to respond to button presses?
+JustKyzuuh nevermind I think it seemed slow before I had the LEDs set up to show the animation. SO i copied and pasted your code, but when I go to ppr, it shows a zero, and does nothing if I scroll to the right. if I scroll to the left, it says 36, and goes back to zero quickly, if you scroll fast it goes down from 36, but there's some glitch there or maybe issue in the code, how can I fix this?
+JustKyzuuh nevermind I'm just stupid and didn't read the forum post.... Sorry about that
Okay so I have just about everything working now except one thing. With the number of LEDs set to 16, it should come down to 2 LEDs and then go blank, but there is a single LED staying on. After inspection, on one side, there are 2 LEDs turning off at once for some reason. Can you help? I've tried resetting and it doesn't fix it. I'll post a video on my channel.
Also, +Chippernut, there seems to be an issue with choosing the 2nd optionas your animation, it says you need to segment again but then goes back to the menu and if you then go to segment, it does some weird stuff. So there's an issue, and it may be the cause of the first one
+JustKyzuuh Thanks for stopping by and reporting these issues. I'm planning to release a new version of the code in a few weeks, so this is perfect timing. I do know the Rototary Encoder and button presses were slightly laggy, so I've improved that code a lot. I'm happy to say that it's a lot snappier now -- this will be a huge improvement to user interface. Have you tried running the EEPROM Reset code (separate from the Shift Light code)? That might help. You're right that if you have an even number of LED's, it should end with 2 led's lit, then 0 led's, when using the center-out animation style. If it was an odd number of LED's, it should end with just 1 lit in the middle. I'll check your channel for a video. I'll also investigate this further and see if I can replicate it on the bench. Thanks again!!! I appreciate the feedback.
this thing is fucking amazing, its exactly what i was looking to build plus some. does the code work with a 16 neopixle ring or would it need modification?
thank you
Thanks!! You can program any number of LEDs in either the strip, stick, circle, or grid if you like - the only limitation is the current from the power regulator limits you to about 25 LEDs safely. Any more and you run the risk of crashing the nano from power starvation.
Chippernut so if I used a voltage step down with a higher current rating I could add more neopixels? because I was thinking about using half a 60 ring if I could, not to mention the 1.2" 7 segment display I was going to upgrade to, probably needs a bit more power.
also, I'm self taught when it comes to this so I have a few learning gaps. what part of the code pertains to the amount of neopixels in the display?
thanks again
I'd like to use this as a tachometer in my 6.9 diesel. It uses a hall effect sensor mounted to the injection pump gear housing and would be 53ppr. Is this possible?
Possibly -- The shift light was designed to use a clean, 12V square wave from an ECU (generally the RPM output/tachometer signal). The hall effect sensors generally produce the same signal, but it's usually faster and may be without signal conditioning. The shift light should be able to accept the faster signal and filter it, if needed, but I should note that this has not been tested yet.
@Chippernut
Is there a way to implement this into a motorbike?
I'm wondering how would I be able to read bike's RPM, 2 cylinder engine.
@Aivaras Vilkas
Yes. You'll have to do research on your particular make/model, but plenty of people have installed on a motorbike. The shift light needs an RPM signal; usually this is a 5v to 12v square wave signal output by a computer controlled ignition.