Hi, Marty here, I am very impressed with how quickly you have picked up the skills to punch out some really fine looking restorations. I look forward to witnessing your continued success in this fun hobby!
Thanks Marty! I really appreciate your feedback on my restorations. Thanks for getting me started a couple weeks ago with some advice and for sharing your workflow in a great series of videos. Without them, I wouldn’t be able to pull off these restorations. I’m looking forward to watch many other restoration videos to come! Have a nice day and keep up the good work 😉👍
I think you must be very pleased with the finished model. The paint looks like a perfect match. Your repair work was very successful. Thanks for sharing your skills.
Saw a comment from Marty... That's pretty cool. He knows his stuff. You have good technique on the detail work, and the axle support repair looked great. Keep it up.
Just a note -- the designation MK7 is pronounced "mark 7", mark being equivalent to the French word marque. Great stuff! I have also found that mixing artist's acrylics with Tamiya acrylics allows them to flow and cover better, even with hand painting, as well as making them less fragile.
Thanks for the heads up! I knew it stands for "mark", but thought people also said "MK" instead. English isn't my native language, so nice to learn something! Have a nice day, Owen!
A lovely restoration job there! I've got one with grey wheels, and the axles are the 'Flattened end' type. Seeing your restoration makes me want to have a go at mine, now. Nice one.
Of the many I have laying around (I mean other models), none of them have flattend end axles. It would be nice to give them a try someday. Thanks, glad you like it! 😊
I've had good luck using JB Weld for small metal repairs, or filling voids in metal castings. It's easier to sculpt before it sets than the cyanoacrylate glue + baking soda combo. Both will work, but you might like JB Weld for some cases over others. Nice job on this one! Looking forward to the next one.
Marty i really like your videos on these matchbox toys as some of the ones you have done are the ones i used to have when growing up.keep up the good work. Mark from NZ.
@@MatchboxRestoration any time! You deserve! As you can see, it's not only this ordinary diecast car collector who's saying that, but great restorers such as Marty and Time Rider! Congrats!
Very nice restoration. Great work. I haven't tackled one of these early Matchbox yet - only the black plastic Regular Wheels. Yours must be one of the later castings, as this model looks like a grey wheels, crimped axles era. Great repair on the broken axle support. The axle holes in the chassis look enlarged from playwear, which would have reduced the amount of metal left in the axle support. I must try this method on the broken hinge support of my Matchbox K11 Whitcomb trailer.
Thanks! From what I found, it's indeed a later version of the casting. I was very pleased with how the repair turned out. A bit hesitant to put the axles back on, because I thought the vibrations from the drill press would break the repair part. But it withstood the handling and turned out great! Good luck with the trailer repair! Have a nice day! 😉
Awesome video as always!!...in response to a poll you did a few days ago, I'd love to see a restoration of maybe the: no37 bantam karrier truck, the no11 scaffolding truck or possibly one of the 8 wheel tippers. Keep up the good work!
Ook deze wagen is weer een mooi stukje werk geworden. Lees ook nog even mijn commentaar in de vorige video. Een prachtige uitbreiding voor je gereedschapset : een Badger Paint Mixer. Kijk even bij Airbrush Service Almere. Kost iets van 18 euro of zo. Je hebt twee AA batterijen nodig. Een setje gaat jaaaaren mee. Koop goede batterijen, want ze mogen niet gaan lekken !!! Ben je eenmaal gewend aan deze mixer, dan kan je niet meer zonder !! Erg verslavend stukje gereedschap. En het werkt echt super. Ik weet niet of het mogelijk is, maar maak een manier om de verfmist meteen af te zuigen. Die mist (ook wel bounce-off genoemd) blijft zonder afzuiging rond het model hangen en slaat uiteindelijk weer neer op je model en zorgt voor een minder mooi uiterlijk. Het kan zelf geheel voorkomen dat je een mooie glanslaag krijgt. Gelukkig zie ik dat niet op dit model, dus tot op heden gaat het goed. Maar een goede afzuiging is geen slecht idee.
Great restoration. I've been after this casting for ages but have been struggling to find a good one. SO jealous! Pleased for you that you made such a good job. Nice to see you experiment with other paints....I'll look into doing that myself.
This one was also in fairly rough shape, but it is also one the oldest I have in my Matchbox Vault. Thanks for the kind words and good luck on finding this model. It is a nice one to have!
Dit geeft een goed gevoel dit wagentje weer te zien. heb deze ook als kind gehad en heb het altijd een bijzonder model gevonden. Deze ziet er weer uit of ie zo uit in 1957 uit de fabriek komt rollen. Bedankt voor deze leuke video.
There you go, another lovely restoration. I don’t know which country you are from, but I have seen others use chrome pens to do the grill and lights. Thank you, from South Africa
Great job. I am working on one of these myself at the moment. I find the model supplies door very difficult to fit accurately. I will paint once it gets warmer in the UK. Thanks.
Thanks, Ben. I found out the placement of the base is crucial to fit the ramp properly. On my casting, the lips that are behind the ramp (inside) are a bit worn out, so the ramp sits in place nicely, but won't need much to get loose from the model. That's probably why almost all remaining ones have the ramp missing in the first place 😅
@@MatchboxRestorationthanks. I'll bear that in mind when I mess around with it. Overall it is a very nice casting. The horsebox itself has a lot of detail.
Very nice restoration. The one thing I noticed was the axles were not inserted in the same direction, but that's a minor detail. I think the only reason I happened to see this is because of watching these sorts of videos. I love how you matched the color and the axle sleeve repair was perfect. I look forward to the next one, great job!
True, I did put the axles back the way they originally came in at first, but through the restorations, I noticed they don’t always were placed the same way. So I randomly put them back on the model now. Do you think I should put them back as they originally came in?
Did you mold the part it self (for the wheel axel), or did you use the soda to bond the glue and metal together (as an home made weld) to reatach the part that was missing?
I put on glue and dip it into the soda and repeat that process. But many here have said I need to use thinner glue for this to work properly. Some also suggest using 2 part epoxy putty. I’ll have to check out what works best.
Awesome resto, thx for sharing videos. Also liked that Marty posted his positive comments. Keep up the excellent work! Oh, I also noticed the axles and you previously answered that you did reversed them, now they match on each side...lol, its an OCD thing from some of us viewers.
tip for you with the baking soda and super glue thing..in this case turn the base sideways. put a piece of masking tape so it's even with the base metal you're working with. you can then apply the glue and soda in pretty close to the shape you need. Sometimes I put a bit of super thin high test super glue only where the original metal broke away, then apply the soda, using a small stir stick to shape it into pretty close to what I want. THEN I soak it with the super thin high test super glue that I use. A light dusting of the soda on top cures the super glue quickly. You can then remove the tape, it may take a bit of time to get it away from the super glued area, then file and or sand the material into exactly the shape you need. When it will be hidden, I often make gussets to strengthen the repair.
@@MatchboxRestoration It only works with the super thin superglue. I get mine off ebay, Bob Smith industries insta cure super thin. If you use normal thickness or gell, it does not work. Besides, this stuff is the real deal, the stick your fingers together kind, not the weakened stuff they sell in most stores. Marty has tried it, and it worked for him too. You can also use an epoxy putty, which I think I've seen you use before... or JB weld, but I have not had as much success with JB weld as I have the super glue and soda thing. It's tough, they normally use it to fill divots and seal up cracks in carbon fiber helicopter blades, real helicopters, not models or the like, so it does take a beating and keep on going. you can sand, file and shape it all you want, but just for a belt and suspenders type of security, if it's where it won't readily show, I make gussets or buttresses to hold it in place, one time I even made flying buttresses because something had to go through the area I wanted to put the buttress. Oh, there is a new low melt soldet that will fill in on zinc, but there is also a modelers putty to use like you might use bondo on a real car to take out the imperfections like on that bug's bonnet or trunk whichever way you look at that.
Thanks! I did. At first I always mounted them the same as my previous restorations, until I figured out they fit them randomly at the factory too. I like the aspect of having them randomly fitted. I don't think one way looks better than the other. What do you think?
Really love your vids! Do you ever feel inclined to change the final look of the models? I realise at that point they are no longer resorations, but I'm curious if you ever try to improvise?
I did make a banger racing type of car out of a model. But apart from that, I have always tried to match the original as close as possible. It’s a personal preference, not something I think is “the right way”. Thanks for the kind words.
Might I make a suggestion on rebuilding the broken axel mount. You might wanna try and a 2 part epoxy putty. You can get plumbers putty at a hardward store for very cheap and it hardens to a very solid state. I done the glue trick before but it just doesnt hold up whereas the epoxy putty is much much stronger and will last basically forever.
Yes. The super baking soda method does have its drawbacks. It tends to break out, given enough time. For details that don't get much handling, fine. But for something like a axel mount, stronger solutions are needed
Is the silver dot on the inside floor of the base some sort of identifier that you've devised to identify your restorations? Nice jib by the way! (approx. 10:25)
Great job on your video and restoration. I noticed when you pressed your axles on, the two look different. Not in a bad way though, it looks better in my opinion. It resembles a in scale hub cap
How do you mean "different"? The one end of the axle is untouched, the other one gets a new "lip" to hold the wheel on. I try to make them look as much like they came originally.
@@MatchboxRestoration hi I did not mean to insult you. What I ment was, the side of the axle that you made a lip on appears bigger in diameter than the other side.
No problem, I didn’t take your comment as an insult 😉 I just wanted to point out that I didn’t create the big hubs, they were like that. The smaller hubs are the ones I made with the drill press.
Hoe heb jij het onderdeel bestelt via modelsupplies? Ik zou ook onderdelen willen bestellen maar ik moet kaartgegevens ingeven en ik betrouw dat niet. Kan jij mij helpen?
Hey, if you're getting praise from Marty there, you must be doing something right. Looks really good when you're finished. Nice job. Keep up the good work.
The bigger ones are original ones. I created the smaller side. These always come with one larger than the other. Only on this model, with its small wheel diameter it kind of looks weird 😅
Hi, Marty here, I am very impressed with how quickly you have picked up the skills to punch out some really fine looking restorations. I look forward to witnessing your continued success in this fun hobby!
Thanks Marty! I really appreciate your feedback on my restorations. Thanks for getting me started a couple weeks ago with some advice and for sharing your workflow in a great series of videos. Without them, I wouldn’t be able to pull off these restorations. I’m looking forward to watch many other restoration videos to come! Have a nice day and keep up the good work 😉👍
Marty it is all about your wife's toothbrush. That is the secret to your success!!
Marty has approved. There is no higher praise. You have achieved the pinnacle of success.
Marty, you are great and kind, i love your channel.
I agree with you, sir.
Oh my gosh... This is one of the coolest Matchbox castings I've seen. Wonderfully done. Thank You!
I love the way the primer and paint covered the imperfections of the the horse box but still maintained the details. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
I like the Tamiya White Surface Primer for that exact reason! Glad you like it! Thanks!
Nice one. And nice to see Marty appreciate a fellow restorer. Love Marty's work
Beautiful repair job on the axle housing. Great restoration sir.
Thanks! The repair job turned out quite good.
I think you must be very pleased with the finished model. The paint looks like a perfect match. Your repair work was very successful. Thanks for sharing your skills.
As a first try with the superglue and baking soda, I was quite happy with the result too. Nice to hear you like it!
Nice work turned out Perfect amazing restoration well done 👍
I've seen a few other channeld use the ink from a silver permanant marker pen for the silver parts. Have you ever considered that?
Great job, I was really impressed with how well you repaired the chassis.
I was evenly surprised by the result, to be honest 😂Thanks!
Another great restoration! Thank you for sharing this video!
Nice job! Another meticulous restoration! Thank you!
Thanks! 😉
Brilliant, i like all these model restore channels, nice restore
Thanks, Martin! I love watching other restorations too. Everyone has their idea's and tricks. Great to learn from!
Very nice job! I think the repair on the chassis was especially good. Cheers!
Thanks, Jeff! Have a nice day!
Saw a comment from Marty... That's pretty cool. He knows his stuff. You have good technique on the detail work, and the axle support repair looked great. Keep it up.
Thanks Brian! Nice to hear you like my work!
Just a note -- the designation MK7 is pronounced "mark 7", mark being equivalent to the French word marque. Great stuff! I have also found that mixing artist's acrylics with Tamiya acrylics allows them to flow and cover better, even with hand painting, as well as making them less fragile.
Thanks for the heads up! I knew it stands for "mark", but thought people also said "MK" instead. English isn't my native language, so nice to learn something! Have a nice day, Owen!
A lovely restoration job there! I've got one with grey wheels, and the axles are the 'Flattened end' type. Seeing your restoration makes me want to have a go at mine, now. Nice one.
Of the many I have laying around (I mean other models), none of them have flattend end axles. It would be nice to give them a try someday. Thanks, glad you like it! 😊
I've had good luck using JB Weld for small metal repairs, or filling voids in metal castings. It's easier to sculpt before it sets than the cyanoacrylate glue + baking soda combo. Both will work, but you might like JB Weld for some cases over others. Nice job on this one! Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for the advice! I'll look into it! Check out my other vids too!
It's hard for me to comment immediately after Marty - I agree with him 100% - your restorations are top-notch! Keep up the good work!
Thank you, Paul! Stay tuned for more!
Marty i really like your videos on these matchbox toys as some of the ones you have done are the ones i used to have when growing up.keep up the good work. Mark from NZ.
Very well done! Nice work on the super glue repair. Keep em coming...
Thanks! Stay tuned!
Молодец! Отличная работа! Я тоже восстанавливаю модели,только СССР. Excellent job!!
Thank you! I needed Google Translate for this, but thank you very much 😉Спасибо
Excellent , looking forward to more restorations.
Thank you, Timothy!
Awesome job! You are a great restorer!
Thank you for the kind words! 😊
@@MatchboxRestoration any time! You deserve! As you can see, it's not only this ordinary diecast car collector who's saying that, but great restorers such as Marty and Time Rider! Congrats!
Very nice restoration. Great work. I haven't tackled one of these early Matchbox yet - only the black plastic Regular Wheels. Yours must be one of the later castings, as this model looks like a grey wheels, crimped axles era. Great repair on the broken axle support. The axle holes in the chassis look enlarged from playwear, which would have reduced the amount of metal left in the axle support. I must try this method on the broken hinge support of my Matchbox K11 Whitcomb trailer.
Thanks! From what I found, it's indeed a later version of the casting. I was very pleased with how the repair turned out. A bit hesitant to put the axles back on, because I thought the vibrations from the drill press would break the repair part. But it withstood the handling and turned out great! Good luck with the trailer repair! Have a nice day! 😉
Awesome video as always!!...in response to a poll you did a few days ago, I'd love to see a restoration of maybe the: no37 bantam karrier truck, the no11 scaffolding truck or possibly one of the 8 wheel tippers. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I'll put some of those models in the queue 😉
Ook deze wagen is weer een mooi stukje werk geworden.
Lees ook nog even mijn commentaar in de vorige video.
Een prachtige uitbreiding voor je gereedschapset : een Badger Paint Mixer. Kijk even bij Airbrush Service Almere. Kost iets van 18 euro of zo. Je hebt twee AA batterijen nodig. Een setje gaat jaaaaren mee. Koop goede batterijen, want ze mogen niet gaan lekken !!!
Ben je eenmaal gewend aan deze mixer, dan kan je niet meer zonder !! Erg verslavend stukje gereedschap. En het werkt echt super.
Ik weet niet of het mogelijk is, maar maak een manier om de verfmist meteen af te zuigen. Die mist (ook wel bounce-off genoemd) blijft zonder afzuiging rond het model hangen en slaat uiteindelijk weer neer op je model en zorgt voor een minder mooi uiterlijk. Het kan zelf geheel voorkomen dat je een mooie glanslaag krijgt.
Gelukkig zie ik dat niet op dit model, dus tot op heden gaat het goed. Maar een goede afzuiging is geen slecht idee.
Bedankt voor de tip van de verfmixer. De paintbooth is in aanbouw ;-)
Great restoration. I've been after this casting for ages but have been struggling to find a good one. SO jealous! Pleased for you that you made such a good job. Nice to see you experiment with other paints....I'll look into doing that myself.
This one was also in fairly rough shape, but it is also one the oldest I have in my Matchbox Vault. Thanks for the kind words and good luck on finding this model. It is a nice one to have!
FANTASTIC and beautiful!!!!! ❤❤❤❤
Thank you, Jim!
Dit geeft een goed gevoel dit wagentje weer te zien. heb deze ook als kind gehad en heb het altijd een bijzonder model gevonden. Deze ziet er weer uit of ie zo uit in 1957 uit de fabriek komt rollen. Bedankt voor deze leuke video.
Leuk om te horen dat je de video fijn vindt. Dit zijn echte teletijdmachientjes. Fijn om aan te werken!
Excellent job love watching
Thanks, Michael!
There you go, another lovely restoration. I don’t know which country you are from, but I have seen others use chrome pens to do the grill and lights. Thank you, from South Africa
I’m from Belgium. I have a chrome pen laying around which I’ll probably use in a future restoration video. 😉
Great job. I am working on one of these myself at the moment. I find the model supplies door very difficult to fit accurately. I will paint once it gets warmer in the UK. Thanks.
Thanks, Ben. I found out the placement of the base is crucial to fit the ramp properly. On my casting, the lips that are behind the ramp (inside) are a bit worn out, so the ramp sits in place nicely, but won't need much to get loose from the model. That's probably why almost all remaining ones have the ramp missing in the first place 😅
@@MatchboxRestorationthanks. I'll bear that in mind when I mess around with it. Overall it is a very nice casting. The horsebox itself has a lot of detail.
@@benday1218 Good luck with the restoration! 👍
You do a good job on your models
Thanks, David!
I give this project an rating of A. Good Job.
Super job . Very well done . 😊
Thanks, Nigel!
Very nice restoration
Thanks, Cornelis!
A superb restoration.
Thank you Raymond!
Very nice restoration. The one thing I noticed was the axles were not inserted in the same direction, but that's a minor detail. I think the only reason I happened to see this is because of watching these sorts of videos. I love how you matched the color and the axle sleeve repair was perfect. I look forward to the next one, great job!
True, I did put the axles back the way they originally came in at first, but through the restorations, I noticed they don’t always were placed the same way. So I randomly put them back on the model now. Do you think I should put them back as they originally came in?
@@MatchboxRestoration No, very few originals have the axles put in from the same direction, usually it's one each way.
Did you mold the part it self (for the wheel axel), or did you use the soda to bond the glue and metal together (as an home made weld) to reatach the part that was missing?
I put on glue and dip it into the soda and repeat that process. But many here have said I need to use thinner glue for this to work properly. Some also suggest using 2 part epoxy putty. I’ll have to check out what works best.
I love it awesome job i’m looking forward to your next one👍
Stay tuned 😊
I am watching your videos to learn how to do the restorations
Cool! Make sure to check out Time Rider and Marty's Matchbox Makeovers too! They have great videos with a lot of tips and tricks too! Good luck!
She's beautiful. I watched it twice.
My grandson has a big bin liner of matchbox cars. Probs about 2-300 in there. Subbing cos your vids are cool 👌
Wow, that's one big collection! I have a couple in my Matchbox Vault, but I'll need more when they are done 😇
Another job well done!
Thanks!
Awesome resto, thx for sharing videos. Also liked that Marty posted his positive comments. Keep up the excellent work! Oh, I also noticed the axles and you previously answered that you did reversed them, now they match on each side...lol, its an OCD thing from some of us viewers.
Thanks Emmanuel! Glad you like it! Would you rather put the axles back like they were originally? Let me know what you think 😉
tip for you with the baking soda and super glue thing..in this case turn the base sideways. put a piece of masking tape so it's even with the base metal you're working with. you can then apply the glue and soda in pretty close to the shape you need. Sometimes I put a bit of super thin high test super glue only where the original metal broke away, then apply the soda, using a small stir stick to shape it into pretty close to what I want. THEN I soak it with the super thin high test super glue that I use. A light dusting of the soda on top cures the super glue quickly. You can then remove the tape, it may take a bit of time to get it away from the super glued area, then file and or sand the material into exactly the shape you need. When it will be hidden, I often make gussets to strengthen the repair.
Great advice! I wouldn't have thought that would actually work. I might try this in the future. Thank you!
@@MatchboxRestoration It only works with the super thin superglue. I get mine off ebay, Bob Smith industries insta cure super thin. If you use normal thickness or gell, it does not work. Besides, this stuff is the real deal, the stick your fingers together kind, not the weakened stuff they sell in most stores. Marty has tried it, and it worked for him too. You can also use an epoxy putty, which I think I've seen you use before... or JB weld, but I have not had as much success with JB weld as I have the super glue and soda thing. It's tough, they normally use it to fill divots and seal up cracks in carbon fiber helicopter blades, real helicopters, not models or the like, so it does take a beating and keep on going. you can sand, file and shape it all you want, but just for a belt and suspenders type of security, if it's where it won't readily show, I make gussets or buttresses to hold it in place, one time I even made flying buttresses because something had to go through the area I wanted to put the buttress. Oh, there is a new low melt soldet that will fill in on zinc, but there is also a modelers putty to use like you might use bondo on a real car to take out the imperfections like on that bug's bonnet or trunk whichever way you look at that.
Thanks! I’ll look into it!
why are these so fun to watch?! lol
A very nice restoration on a hard to find casting.
Thanks, Darrin!
Magnificent job! Keep it up!
Thanks! :)
Nice work , did you interchange the direction of the axles ..?
Thanks! I did. At first I always mounted them the same as my previous restorations, until I figured out they fit them randomly at the factory too. I like the aspect of having them randomly fitted. I don't think one way looks better than the other. What do you think?
super restoration job
Thanks!
Great video. Well done.
Thanks, glad you like it!
"OOPS!" Haha...classic. Good job.
Haha, that happens all the time 😂
Really love your vids! Do you ever feel inclined to change the final look of the models? I realise at that point they are no longer resorations, but I'm curious if you ever try to improvise?
I did make a banger racing type of car out of a model. But apart from that, I have always tried to match the original as close as possible. It’s a personal preference, not something I think is “the right way”. Thanks for the kind words.
Expertly done.
Thanks! 😊
Another great restoration.. i enjoy watching brother.. big thumbs up..and take care... :) ;) :D =)
Thanks a lot! Glad you like it!
Nice restoration , looks great 👍
Thanks, Jerry!
GREAT JOB !
Thanks, Chris! 😉
Nice work!
Thank you Pat!
Nicely done..
Like candy for the eyes
Looks great.
Thanks, Martin!
I had one exactly like this model as a kid.
Might I make a suggestion on rebuilding the broken axel mount. You might wanna try and a 2 part epoxy putty. You can get plumbers putty at a hardward store for very cheap and it hardens to a very solid state. I done the glue trick before but it just doesnt hold up whereas the epoxy putty is much much stronger and will last basically forever.
Thanks for the advice! I’ll look into it. Thanks for taking the time to help me out! 😉
Yes. The super baking soda method does have its drawbacks.
It tends to break out, given enough time.
For details that don't get much handling, fine.
But for something like a axel mount, stronger solutions are needed
Nice work
Thanks, Eric!
Nice work....keep it up!
Thanks!
ziet er weer strak en kantig uit nice job
Dank je, Woutje!
Is the silver dot on the inside floor of the base some sort of identifier that you've devised to identify your restorations? Nice jib by the way! (approx. 10:25)
It’s actually the place where I glue the screw that I use to hold the casting while painting 😇 Thanks!
great work
SO BEAUTIFULL MAN!!
Nice restore!
Thanks, Time Rider! 😎
Awesome, well done.
Thanks, Steven!
Nice work to an old girl. Cheers' John
Thanks, John! 👍Good to go again!
Great job on your video and restoration. I noticed when you pressed your axles on, the two look different. Not in a bad way though, it looks better in my opinion. It resembles a in scale hub cap
How do you mean "different"? The one end of the axle is untouched, the other one gets a new "lip" to hold the wheel on. I try to make them look as much like they came originally.
@@MatchboxRestoration hi I did not mean to insult you. What I ment was, the side of the axle that you made a lip on appears bigger in diameter than the other side.
No problem, I didn’t take your comment as an insult 😉 I just wanted to point out that I didn’t create the big hubs, they were like that. The smaller hubs are the ones I made with the drill press.
Nice job.
Thanks!
The split rivet is interesting, this is the first I've ever seen one.
It was used on several earlier models before using the rivet posts.
Well done!!..............
I found a great match for the box paint, Lifecolor UA080, mimetic yellow 3
That's spot on! Nice find!
@@MatchboxRestoration Thanks for your videos. I have a Hoveringham Tipper #17 I'm about to try and restore.
No you should try the silver paint pen like Marty uses. It’s perfect for the lights and grill.
I have a liquid chrome pen laying around, but I can't get the "paint" out of the pen like Marty does. Might have to look further 😉
Nice job
Thanks!
Hoe heb jij het onderdeel bestelt via modelsupplies? Ik zou ook onderdelen willen bestellen maar ik moet kaartgegevens ingeven en ik betrouw dat niet. Kan jij mij helpen?
mauro vermassen Ik heb een mail verstuurd met m’n bestelling en kreeg dan een Paypal verzoek om te betalen.
Hey, if you're getting praise from Marty there, you must be doing something right. Looks really good when you're finished. Nice job. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Stay tuned for more 👍
You know this is the result of bribery
Marty's wife just received two dozen new toothbrushes.
if BaremetalHW is the King, Marty is definitely the Prince so you can say the Prince loves your work, and i agree with his sentiments
Haha, I might be just a poor peasant then 😂
Nice video!!
Using acrylic paint to make paintings?
Good job.
Très beau. Pourquoi est-ce que deux des "capuchons" de roues après le remontage sont plus gros que les 2 autres?
Les grandes, je ne touche pas. Ce sont les petits que je refais, donc ils sont different. Merci!
Good restauration
Remington T800 Thanks!
Thank you
Done well...bestest!
Thanks Willie!
Nice work , vidéo.
Thanks Michel!
Super work,,,,,
Thank you!
Mooie restauratie hoor !
I think you should get one of those chrome pens everyone else is using for the trims
I got one laying around. I'll use it on my next one 😉
Nice.
Wederom een mooi resultaat.....👍👍👍.... Wanneer starten de matchbox superfast restauraties?? 😉
Daar hou ik me nog even afzijdig van 😇 Dank je!
Another nice resto! Your voice sounds familiar, you got another channel?
I have an FPV Racing channel under the name of JaZzMaN251. But those are mostly flight videos without narration. Thanks! 😉
Use a straw to drop the soda on the superglue
Good advice, thanks!
Awsome
Thanks! Glad you like it! 😊
I have this horse box with no door...where you buy it?
TheMgs01 I got it from model-supplies.co.uk
The two much larger hubs on the wheels just don’t look right. See if you can balance the size in the future.
The bigger ones are original ones. I created the smaller side. These always come with one larger than the other. Only on this model, with its small wheel diameter it kind of looks weird 😅