It was like a open heart surgery. When you put the balance I felt like heart has started to beat and watch coming to life! Great video with meticulous precision!!
As a viewer with a severe hearing impediment, I want to thank you wholeheartedly for the effort you've put into providing hand-crafted closed captions. Not one in a thousand TH-cam videos seems to have these, and the auto-generated captions are often of no use at all. I will add that because you also take care with diction and enunciation, I seldom have to rely on your CC's: But they are there just in case.
Glad to hear you found them helpful! I’ve always done the CCs for all my videos. I get the auto generated CCs after uploading each video and I go through them and correct everything. It’s a technical subject, a lot of it is wrong and quite often I must listen to the video because the text in front of me makes absolutely no sense. I am very happy to hear that it is useful to you
Have watched both parts of the assembly, disassembly about 10 times now as I’m just starting out, and I am using a 4r36. Can’t get over the amount of respect you show to the process and this movement, which many would label as “cheap.” Bravo for setting a great example.
It is a cheap movement but I don’t differentiate between them. Whatever I do, I want to be proud of, regardless of the price of the movement/watch. I was hoping that guys who are starting out would find these videos helpful, it’s nice to hear that you do. It might be worth looking at the other two Seiko videos I have done. One of them shows polishing in detail and the other shows jewelling in detail. They are both from the 70’s and you can pick them up on eBay for very little money and you will have a complete watch instead of just the movement 👍
This is great, thank you for making this video. I'm just starting out with the hobby, slowly gathering the tools but I started to make my way into an NH35 removing a few parts and putting them back in. With this guide I'm sure I can tear it all apart and assemble correctly. And I could learn so much from this tutorial about the tiny details that need attention. Excellent footage and narration. I have a vintage Seiko with an 6119C waiting for me to get enough practice to service it as it barely runs now. Exciting times ahead 🚀
Thank you so much for this video. I've serviced many different movements. This one is key for NH35/6 because of all the lubrication details. Much appreciated!
@@MacroTime28800 - Yes, great work. They aren't assembled or lubricated any where near this carefully at the factory. I believe the assembly process is 100% automated on these at Seiko even lubrication. Nice video.
This video is absolutely wonderful. I've been watching videos on movement assembly/disassembly for a few days and this is the nicest one I've seen. (My son dropped a watch with an nh35 in it, and it no longer runs, and I was hoping to learn enough to at least be able to disassemble/inspect to see how it had failed). Now I'm thinking that I can learn to service these things! Absolutely beautiful video. I'm going to have to learn how to do this too. When I was a 9 or 10 year old kid I disassembled a couple of worn out mechanical pocket watches but was unable to get them assembled and running again. Looking at your video it's obvious that this is something that's totally learnable for an adult with dexterity and with patience. I Love that you're putting all of this effort into such a cheap and cheerful movement. I think this is the best TH-cam video I've ever seen.
Brilliant. I have bought a lot of these movements for Seiko modding and do service watches as a hobby so this video is invaluable as a guide.. Thanks for taking the time to make it. The video production is superb. look forward to seeing what other movements you strip down.
Very happy to hear that you found it helpful and can use it as a guide. As for the movements, whatever comes my way I’ll service/repair and upload here.
Love your videos, very truthful and so accurate, every part of the movement and some that wasnt mentioned in the diagram you mentioned every single one, I can see this video helping alot of begginers in their journey like me✊
Thank you for the video. This is the best job of voice-over in detail I have ever seen and the video work is perfection. Please don't become discouraged before people begin tuning in the way I know they will. I hope to see many more in the days ahead. Cheers from Florida, USA.
Bro, you knocked it out of the park. Love the little guitar riff bongo groove. Kick it back to the bridge. Combining the studio with the keyless works. 21,600 Thanks for the video.
Awesome! I’m glad you enjoyed it. I was getting fed up after several hours of browsing TH-cam music library trying to find the right track but judging from your comment it was worth my time.
Glad to have this very exactingly done video of the NH36. I have two watches from Long Island Watch that use this movement, so it's good to see in detail how they work. Thanks very much!
Wonderful video, attention to details, lot of explanations and definitions as well. You are a SCHOOL, my friend. I can not thank you enough. Ever since I have wanted to assemble / dis. the watches, especially my most favourite brand Seikos. Now you gave me a lot of self confidence. Thank you so much! I will check your books now. Regards from Canada.
Great guide! I don't know if it makes sense to service these, but it sure _does_ make sense when you're learning as I am. I also appreciate the care you put into the service, and I certainly agree that if we _are_ going to service it, we should give it our best so we can be proud of the result. I've recently struggled with the shock springs in this movement, but it's all good practice for me.
The time and effort it takes to service this, it would be a lot more expensive than buying a new movement and replacing it. It would only make sense if you really wanted to keep the original movement that was in the watch when the watch was purchased. These movements are perfect for practice. A single part for most movements would cost more than this movement. The shock springs, the only way to get good at it, is to do it over and over until you’re comfortable. It’s not going to happen the first day but if you keep doing it, it will become second nature.
@@MacroTime28800 For sure, there's no substitute for practice and we shouldn't even want one. When I'm struggling & getting a bit flustered, I can remind myself that I'm _in_ the learning curve and it's all good. There aren't clients waiting to get their pieces back, so I can take a break & come back to it refreshed. I _will_ get there, but gosh I do appreciate the much easier to deal with shock springs that I've found in ETAs and Sellitas. Anyhow, there's so much more to learn and I'll stay tuned! Thanks for your expert guidance. 🍻
I have watched a lot of watch service videos. I have to say you did an excellent job on the video and audio, explaining everything you did. I just subscribed and hope to see more videos soon!
Thank you Paul, I’m glad you enjoyed it. I’m in the middle of editing another watch video, I’m hoping to have it finished and published on Friday 12 August. Cheers, Leo
I have watched many Wristwatch Revival w/Marshal. You did a fabulous job on a watch I own. It looks like you use a bit more lubricant than Marshal but that may be your style/belief. Timegrapher showed a beautiful result. Your videos are very clear and enjoyable to view. This type of work is meditative to me, thank you.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. The macro makes it look like there is a lot of lubrication. If I recorded it from a distance, it would look different. There should be enough to last a while but not too much to spread where it shouldn't 👍
Fantastically clear and detailed video. I'm new to watchmaking and I've just purchased a nh36 to dismantle and service for my first project This will be no end of help and I appreciate immensely. Thank you and good day to you Sir. XX
Hello!, Sir! This your content these movements are best quality videos with very good tips,infomations! I lovet!! You helps many guy in the watchmakersway! Thank you for these videos! I wish you everything good,Sir! 👌👍☺️✌️🌻☀️🇫🇮
Nice, clean and very good filmed. So much better explained, than SII manual does. Sir you are a professional. I'm used to swiss movements that are more tidy, than Seikos are. This will help me to try and see if I can get some better results from mine NH36. Thank you.
My friend, you don't know how much this tutorial has helped me. I got part of the stem inside and I decided to put my hand. I still don't know how it will look because I'm going to install the balance but I already saw your method.
@@MacroTime28800 Just a question because it didn't start. I see the balance that was inactive as it was twisted to one side and I cannot install it. is that possible? sometimes the translator is not effective
@@MacroTime28800 You want it and I placed it incorrectly and it was distorted or deformed, but I already have it corrected, let's see how it turns out.
Thank you very much Mr. Vidal. I am “tooling up” to add my many concepts from brain to paper and subsequently to my wrist, ( or someone else’s) !! As the ALPINIST is my absolute favorite Seiko, your video WILL be played excessively. I’m 60 so I need to “get off my arse” and make it happen. Also, I need those screwdrivers you use!! They must fit. This msg ran long, I am sorry!! I appreciate the INSPIRATION. BYRON
The hardest thing is to start, I know the feeling! I’d get some nice screwdrivers, it’s something you use all the time, and tweezers of course. Bergeon stainless steel 9 pieces on a rotating stand would be my recommendation: www.cousinsuk.com/product/bergeon-screwdriver-sets-rotating-stands
As a beginner, I’ve learned to loosen, or work on one part at a time rather than having several parts loose at once. This way, I can only lose or destroy one part at a time.
Absolutely astonishing. As luck would have it, I need this information and the way you presented it!! BRAVO x2. And thank you. Regards, tIME4tIME Byron
Thank you! My latest video is the Seiko Alpinist 6R15 movement which is very, very similar to the NH36 and I’d dare say that the video is better than this one so if you need the info, the Alpinist video might also help you 👍
Hi thanks for the tutorial. The commentary is fantastic & very detailed. I’ve watched the video a few time trying to listen on which types of oil & grease you use. Is there any chance you could clarify which oils & grease you use. I think I have them written down correctly but would like to make sure. Thank you
It’s a while ago I did this video but to guide you, I use Moebius oils/greases. Train 9010, 9020, HP1300, HP500, pallet stones 941, mainspring 8200, keyless 9501 but I use mainly 9504 now instead. I can’t remember which I used for this pocket watch but I’d imagine that’s what I used. I would suggest switching the subtitles on. They are not auto generated, I painstakingly typed them out so it can be clear what I’m saying, mainly for the technical words and the lubricants. I hope that helps!
Amazing how well built the movement is considering how inexpensive it is. In a lot of ways i think its a better design than some of the swiss ones out there
For the money, you really can’t beat it. I have very recently uploaded the 6R15 and it’s almost the same movement. There are differences there but only very slight and the 6R15 is almost 10 times the price
This 4R36 assembly vid (and the prior 4R36 disassembly vid) are terrific... well done! I'm about to buy a Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51, and it is great to know what is inside down to the tiniest screw. I wonder why Seiko chose to make so many of the parts of the day/date motion works out of plastic?
The plastic, it's a 'fuse'. If you change the day or date at the wrong time, close to midnight, you'll break the plastic but the plastic won't cause any damage to the metal parts it interacts with. So there will be damage but not as extensive. The 4R36 is almost the same as the 6R15. I did a more recent video, the Alpinist where you will see it better, especially the day change, manual by the user and and at midnight when it changes automatically.
AS I see this ONE of the Best of the Best of the Best watch explanation and GREAT High Quality filming, THX for the hard work to put it on for seeing, how you do it is like miracle of watch assembly etc. THX from SWEDEN & TH ;) ...
Thank you very much! How nice to see you appreciate the hard work. It really is, just editing the footage takes several weeks. There’s more to come in future.
Hi Leo, Thanks so much for so exhaustive step-by-step manual for this movement, I lost count of how many times I rewatched them :) I just have a question about cleaning the movement and jewels. You mentioned that you are using horological cleaning fluid. Are you using this fluid only for cleaning jewels or for all parts exclusively? Can you please share the details about the fluid? Also would be interesting to see a video of how you clean the parts, especially if you do it manually rather than in the cleaning machine. Cheers and thanks for the awesome content!
I used to use Horosolv to clean everything, not just the jewels but now I use a watch cleaning machine and fluids that are for the machine. You need Horosolv or Renata fluid 👍
Can I ask why you didn’t lubricate the jewel that the palate fork locates whilst you was lubricating the escape wheel jewel sorry for asking I’m new at watch making and I’m curious to know if the palate fork jewel is best left dry. Thanks, I am so grateful for your work and sharing your skills with us.
I’m not absolutely sure why the pallet fork pivots are not supposed to be lubricated. I have heard a number of reasons, the movement is minimal, the amplitude will drop if lubrication is used… In any case, it is widely accepted that the pallet fork pivots are not supposed to be lubricated. Most manuals will tell you not to lubricate them. As far as I know, only the odd Seiko manual will tell you to lubricate them, but not all. Regardless of what the Seiko manuals state, I don’t know anyone who lubricates them. On the other hand, the pallet jewels, they make contact with the escape wheel, there is a lot of friction going on all the time, they need to be lubricated 👍
Como sabes, las potensas traen también una base con garras para sujetar la platina y centrar por el puente de cubo y posteriormente aplicar las rimas,,, felicitaciones,,, muy bueno todo,
I am having an issue where my intermediate wheel for date corrector is getting jammed. Everything seems to work aside from this one wheel. Turning clockwise it will get jammed. Counter-clockwise, it will not. Not sure what the issue is. The Day Date corrector wheel had a tooth broken off when I bought it. Hence someone forced it and broke that wheel. I changed that wheel but the wheel for Date Corrector is still getting jammed. Any help would be appreciated.
I would check the post for the day-date corrector that it is absolutely straight. Also the date setting wheel that interacts with the day-date corrector is made out of plastic and as there was some force applied, it would have been these two plastic wheels that would have been affected. It may be worth changing that wheel as well.
Admittedly I don’t look at watches, I’m more interested in the technical aspect of them. I know there are plenty of entry level Seiko watches with the 4R35/4R36, dress watches, divers etc. I have recently published the Seiko Alpinist with the 6R15 movement but I’m not sure whether you’d consider it as an entry level watch, it now costs double the price than what it used cost when I bought it. Take a look if you want: th-cam.com/video/u1mauXZilfA/w-d-xo.html
@@MacroTime28800 Thanks a lot for replying. I would have considered it quite below entry level but about 5-6 yrs ago. now it's at least 3 times the price at least in my country. I just checked it's at around 60k INR here, cannot consider it entry level. Probably will have to look elsewhere. I actually had omega 2255.80 for a long time along with other swiss watches but something terrible happened in 2017 and I had to sell off all my watches. I have just started to get my feet back on the ground but having a stroke seeing the price inflation. Even an alpinist is out of my reach now! Anyhow, thanks for your videos, immensely enjoying them. so detailed, and your voice is quite soothing yet clear. Remain in good health pls.
Thank you so much for this helpfull video. I tried today to dissasemble and assemble a nh35 movement. I think I did well for the first time, I needed almost 9 hours 😅 But unfortunately I can't get the balance to swing, not sure if I did something wrong with the pellet fork or with balance...
Hi Leo, Can you please suggest which horological fluid are you using to clean the capstones? You mentioned it several times during the video. Links would be really helpful. Thanks!
Hi Sir, I am new to watch repair and heard you say to wear an apron to catch small parts before hitting the floor. What style of apron and material? I have an old leather apron from blacksmithing I use to wear many years ago that I can use and not have to go buy a special apron but unsure if the small parts would bounce off the leather? I bring this up because just last night while I was working on a movement, I lost the smallest of setting works gears I have ever seen. Maybe 1mm across! I think it went to the floor.
Any apron is better than none. If you have leather, it’s fine. You could also improvise and make something out of a bed sheet or something like that. Ideally white, it’s easier to see the parts on white. It would be lighter and more comfortable than heavy leather 👍
Very interesting, with a lot of details, it must be difficult to work on the movement with the camera above. The amplitude that I measure on my new movement King turtle is 270° too with the good 53° lift angle on the timegrapher dial up, the rate was good at 6s/D and 0.1 ms beat error, so I was lucky. When I see the amplitude at the end with a clean and well lubricate movement, we can clearly see that the mouvement out of stock with industrial manufacturing process is on low spec regulation. The magic lever is always a marvellous mechanical design to see in action, but the manual winding gears seem a bit undersized.
It is a little tricky because the lens is just there, I have very little space around me due to the set up. The magic lever is really magic. I love the way it’s been designed, very nice to watch in action when you test the operation.
Hello Leo, great video. I am trying to assemble this movement but can not get the balance to wheel to engage with the pallet fork properly...do you have any advice. I checked the pallet fork and believe it is set properly since I can make it oscillate manually with a small scewdriver. Than you.
Is the roller jewel where it should be? Not on one of the sides of the pallet fork horn? When it’s stopped, the roller jewel should be resting in the notch of the pallet fork, is that what you can see?
@@MacroTime28800 I recently purchased a Seiko 5 with this movement and would like to try some watch repair I have been enthralled with the TH-cam videos but I am pleased to see your excellent really close filming which I would certainly use to guide me should I pluck up enough courage to attempt a disassembly. I think I need to buy a cheap movement and have a go..
@@paulperry8614 You can always purchase the NH36 to train on first, they are widely available and they are inexpensive. The NH36 will be very similar to the Seiko 5 movement, presumably it is 7s26 movement
Thank you for posting this video! This is one of the most extensive oiling references. I will be using this as a reference to learn how to oil automatic movements. Is there a specific reason that you use 9501 grease? I have 9504 which seems to work fine as an alternative. Also what about using 8217 instead of 8213?
Leo Thanks for putting out great videos I watched the NH35 service every time I work on the movement. I do have a question: Seiko NH35 what is the best Bergeon mainspring winder # or combo for the barrel? Thanks
@@MacroTime28800 thanks for the quick reply, I’ll get a left handed #7. I used a vintage winder and to arbor was very large I thought I was going to break the spring. Thanks
I have. Observed your video , it’s appreciated Explained. with video excellent . Way. Thanks. I purchased citizen automatic watch. , the Key ROD Not. Comes released. Out, please advise how to open key Rod , thanks. Again,❤️❤️
This is very interesting as i would love to learn how to do this wacth makein on my very own seiko divers skx as well as my Seiko Samurais i love knowing about this art Thank you !
I’m glad you find it helpful. Google ‘BHI oiling guide’ and you will see a BHI pdf on BHI and NAWCC website. This is a very helpful guide, what oils and greases to use, how much to apply, using epilame etc.
At 25:47 i see you holding the screwdriver with a pair of tweezers. First time i see anyone doing this. Is this your personal way to stabilize the screwdriver or is it more common and i just have not seen enough pro service videos?
I’ve seen others doing it too. It is also mentioned in one of the books listed in the description below. It allows me to insert the blade into the slot precisely without accidentally marking the head.
Thank you very much for the sub! I’m glad to hear you enjoy my videos. Your English is absolutely fine. If you struggle to understand me at times, you can turn the subtitles on. I do my own subtitles because this is technical stuff and I can imagine the auto generated subtitles wouldn’t be great. I don’t know how the translation to your language works out but it will be better than translation from auto generated subtitles.
I am new to the watch collecting I've learned how to do some modern can you tell me what the 1st name saico means I know the NH36 movement what is the 1st name that comes up before NH36
I’m not sure whether I understand your question. The Seiko NH36 is without the Seiko branding. The 4R36 is with the branding so it is Seiko 4R36. You will not see ‘Seiko’ stamped anywhere on the NH36 movement but essentially it is the Seiko movement even though it is not stamped.
No, I am sorry. For palet stones I intend to use as usual in the Swiss movements, 9415. I was speaking about the only place where Seiko is using S-4, the little "pawl lever", see minute 22:37. Thanks
List of lubricants used: Mobius 9501 (or 9504) grease (keyless works, teeth of automatic works reduction wheel, outside of cannon pinion HP1300 grease (barrel arbor, 2nd reduction wheel jewel, 2nd reduction wheel pivot, day date corrector wheels C and E, minute wheel post) Mobius 8200 (mainspring) Mobius 8213 braking grease (barrel wall) Mobius 9010 grease (3rd wheel pivot, main plate jewels, cap jewels, day date corrector fixed wheel, day date corrector wheel B, under day date corrector wheel (plastic), oscillating weight bearings) Mobius 9415 (exit pallet stone) Seiko S4 grease ( under automatic works 1st reduction wheel) Can you use this combination on all automatic watches?
Leo excellent video bud yesterday i learnt a lesson i will never forget .I was trying to install the Balance and i could not do it 1.5 hrs later i gave up for that day . the next day i went back and to try again and released what i had done the watch movement was in the Hacking position and the small wheel that rest on the balance wheel was the problem it was stopping me getting it in the proper position i put the stem in and moved it and it went in just like that ¯\_(ツ)_/¯♥.
I sometimes spend hours on one thing and then give up. And like you, the next day when I get to it, I find that it was something very simple. These are the best lessons you never forget. Keep going!
Did I? I'd use 9020 these days or whatever the manufacturer recommends. The BHI oiling guide calls for 9010 or 9020 but I think the 9020 would be a better choice
I think you’re probably right. I can’t even see Seiko servicing their movements. It would cost them more to employ someone to service them than to put a new movement in. That’s just a guess, I don’t know what they do. It’s not economical to service these movements, it’s cheaper to put a new one in but there will be people who will be attached to their watches, they will want the original movement in the watch and will prefer to pay more to have it serviced rather than swapping it for a new one.
It’s a while ago I did this video but I’m positive I always said which lubricants I was applying. Did you have the sound switched on? It should also be in the subtitles. They are not auto generated, I typed them myself to avoid any confusion.
I do not use any lighter fluid. I use L&R cleaning solutions and when I need to clean something by hand I will use Horosolv degreaser or Renata essence, followed by a rinse in IPA unless there is shellac and in that case I will use Bergeon B Dip. It was stated in one of my horology books I have here that lighter fluid should not be used because lighter fluid is contaminated with a small amount of oil, making lighter fuel a very poor degreaser. Very small particles of oil will be left on any part that you try and clean when using this substance. This will inevitably introduce oil spreading.
Sorry, I’m not sure what you mean by you can’t get past the pallet fork and escape wheel. The escape wheel is in when you install the train and then you put the pallet fork in.
OK. So I presume you installed the train, the barrel, centre wheel, 3rd wheel, 4th wheel and the escape wheel. They are secured under the bridge and everything is working nicely? The pallet fork is under its bridge?
It was like a open heart surgery. When you put the balance I felt like heart has started to beat and watch coming to life! Great video with meticulous precision!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
As a viewer with a severe hearing impediment, I want to thank you wholeheartedly for the effort you've put into providing hand-crafted closed captions. Not one in a thousand TH-cam videos seems to have these, and the auto-generated captions are often of no use at all. I will add that because you also take care with diction and enunciation, I seldom have to rely on your CC's: But they are there just in case.
Glad to hear you found them helpful! I’ve always done the CCs for all my videos. I get the auto generated CCs after uploading each video and I go through them and correct everything. It’s a technical subject, a lot of it is wrong and quite often I must listen to the video because the text in front of me makes absolutely no sense. I am very happy to hear that it is useful to you
Have watched both parts of the assembly, disassembly about 10 times now as I’m just starting out, and I am using a 4r36. Can’t get over the amount of respect you show to the process and this movement, which many would label as “cheap.” Bravo for setting a great example.
It is a cheap movement but I don’t differentiate between them. Whatever I do, I want to be proud of, regardless of the price of the movement/watch.
I was hoping that guys who are starting out would find these videos helpful, it’s nice to hear that you do.
It might be worth looking at the other two Seiko videos I have done. One of them shows polishing in detail and the other shows jewelling in detail. They are both from the 70’s and you can pick them up on eBay for very little money and you will have a complete watch instead of just the movement 👍
One of my favorite watch movements. Cheap, robust, reliable, can be regulated pretty well and can last a lifetime. Good job sir!
Thank you very much!
Seiko should pay you for this content. This is just outstanding step-by-step for understanding and appreciating their product.
Thank you! Glad to hear you enjoy it 👍
I agree!
You gave me the courage and guidance I needed to dis-/assemble my first movement. Thank you for that! 🎉
That's brilliant! 👍
This is great, thank you for making this video.
I'm just starting out with the hobby, slowly gathering the tools but I started to make my way into an NH35 removing a few parts and putting them back in.
With this guide I'm sure I can tear it all apart and assemble correctly. And I could learn so much from this tutorial about the tiny details that need attention. Excellent footage and narration.
I have a vintage Seiko with an 6119C waiting for me to get enough practice to service it as it barely runs now. Exciting times ahead 🚀
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful 👍
Thank you so much for this video. I've serviced many different movements. This one is key for NH35/6 because of all the lubrication details. Much appreciated!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful 👍
Wow very good video. I did't realize how much intricate work goes behind watch repairs and restoration. This is excellent work, thank you.
I’m glad to hear you enjoyed it! It’s not quite as difficult as it may seem when you see it for the first time. They all work on the same principle.
Thanks for the details regarding the lubrication, really fascinating to see! Wonderful close up footage too 👍
My pleasure, I'm glad you enjoyed it
@@MacroTime28800 - Yes, great work. They aren't assembled or lubricated any where near this carefully at the factory. I believe the assembly process is 100% automated on these at Seiko even lubrication. Nice video.
This video is absolutely wonderful.
I've been watching videos on movement assembly/disassembly for a few days and this is the nicest one I've seen. (My son dropped a watch with an nh35 in it, and it no longer runs, and I was hoping to learn enough to at least be able to disassemble/inspect to see how it had failed). Now I'm thinking that I can learn to service these things!
Absolutely beautiful video. I'm going to have to learn how to do this too. When I was a 9 or 10 year old kid I disassembled a couple of worn out mechanical pocket watches but was unable to get them assembled and running again. Looking at your video it's obvious that this is something that's totally learnable for an adult with dexterity and with patience. I Love that you're putting all of this effort into such a cheap and cheerful movement.
I think this is the best TH-cam video I've ever seen.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
As with everything else, anyone who has the patience and is willing to learn can do watch repair 👍
An absolutely excellent video. Seiko - some day all videos will be made this way!
Thank you very much! Nice to hear you like it.
Brilliant. I have bought a lot of these movements for Seiko modding and do service watches as a hobby so this video is invaluable as a guide.. Thanks for taking the time to make it. The video production is superb. look forward to seeing what other movements you strip down.
Very happy to hear that you found it helpful and can use it as a guide.
As for the movements, whatever comes my way I’ll service/repair and upload here.
This helped me reassemble my first movement, thank you so much!
Wonderful!
Love your videos, very truthful and so accurate, every part of the movement and some that wasnt mentioned in the diagram you mentioned every single one, I can see this video helping alot of begginers in their journey like me✊
Thank you! I’m glad you’re finding it helpful 👍
One of the best assembling / oiling videos that I have ever seen! Thank you so much for making it.
Thank you! 😉
Thank you for the video. This is the best job of voice-over in detail I have ever seen and the video work is perfection. Please don't become discouraged before people begin tuning in the way I know they will. I hope to see many more in the days ahead. Cheers from Florida, USA.
Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it. There will be more, I’m working on a Waltham 16s at the moment, it should be published mid January.
Bravo, excellent et grand plaisir de voir cette révision d'une grand professionnalisme. Merci
Thank you very much! 😉
Great video. The level of detailed description of parts and method is fantastic. Video quality is great too. 👍
Glad you liked it!
Bro, you knocked it out of the park. Love the little guitar riff bongo groove. Kick it back to the bridge. Combining the studio with the keyless works. 21,600 Thanks for the video.
Awesome! I’m glad you enjoyed it. I was getting fed up after several hours of browsing TH-cam music library trying to find the right track but judging from your comment it was worth my time.
Glad to have this very exactingly done video of the NH36. I have two watches from Long Island Watch that use this movement, so it's good to see in detail how they work. Thanks very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful video, attention to details, lot of explanations and definitions as well. You are a SCHOOL, my friend. I can not thank you enough. Ever since I have wanted to assemble / dis. the watches, especially my most favourite brand Seikos. Now you gave me a lot of self confidence. Thank you so much! I will check your books now. Regards from Canada.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. The books are good. I have many more but the ones I selected are the best ones I have
Great guide! I don't know if it makes sense to service these, but it sure _does_ make sense when you're learning as I am. I also appreciate the care you put into the service, and I certainly agree that if we _are_ going to service it, we should give it our best so we can be proud of the result. I've recently struggled with the shock springs in this movement, but it's all good practice for me.
The time and effort it takes to service this, it would be a lot more expensive than buying a new movement and replacing it. It would only make sense if you really wanted to keep the original movement that was in the watch when the watch was purchased.
These movements are perfect for practice. A single part for most movements would cost more than this movement.
The shock springs, the only way to get good at it, is to do it over and over until you’re comfortable. It’s not going to happen the first day but if you keep doing it, it will become second nature.
@@MacroTime28800 For sure, there's no substitute for practice and we shouldn't even want one. When I'm struggling & getting a bit flustered, I can remind myself that I'm _in_ the learning curve and it's all good. There aren't clients waiting to get their pieces back, so I can take a break & come back to it refreshed. I _will_ get there, but gosh I do appreciate the much easier to deal with shock springs that I've found in ETAs and Sellitas. Anyhow, there's so much more to learn and I'll stay tuned! Thanks for your expert guidance. 🍻
I have watched a lot of watch service videos. I have to say you did an excellent job on the video and audio, explaining everything you did. I just subscribed and hope to see more videos soon!
Thank you Paul, I’m glad you enjoyed it. I’m in the middle of editing another watch video, I’m hoping to have it finished and published on Friday 12 August. Cheers, Leo
I love the complete descriptions
Glad you like it!
Good video. Very meticulously done with attention to details Amazing. 👍🏼
Thank you! 😊
I have watched many Wristwatch Revival w/Marshal. You did a fabulous job on a watch I own. It looks like you use a bit more lubricant than Marshal but that may be your style/belief. Timegrapher showed a beautiful result. Your videos are very clear and enjoyable to view. This type of work is meditative to me, thank you.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
The macro makes it look like there is a lot of lubrication. If I recorded it from a distance, it would look different. There should be enough to last a while but not too much to spread where it shouldn't 👍
Fantastically clear and detailed video. I'm new to watchmaking and I've just purchased a nh36 to dismantle and service for my first project This will be no end of help and I appreciate immensely. Thank you and good day to you Sir. XX
I’m glad to hear you found it helpful 👍
Hello!, Sir! This your content these movements are best quality videos with very good tips,infomations! I lovet!! You helps many guy in the watchmakersway! Thank you for these videos! I wish you everything good,Sir! 👌👍☺️✌️🌻☀️🇫🇮
Thank you ever so much! Glad you like them 👍
Nice, clean and very good filmed. So much better explained, than SII manual does. Sir you are a professional. I'm used to swiss movements that are more tidy, than Seikos are. This will help me to try and see if I can get some better results from mine NH36. Thank you.
Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful 👍
My friend, you don't know how much this tutorial has helped me. I got part of the stem inside and I decided to put my hand. I still don't know how it will look because I'm going to install the balance but I already saw your method.
Fantastic! Glad it helped you 😉
@@MacroTime28800 Just a question because it didn't start. I see the balance that was inactive as it was twisted to one side and I cannot install it. is that possible? sometimes the translator is not effective
I'm not sure what you mean by 'twisted to one side'?
@@MacroTime28800 You want it and I placed it incorrectly and it was distorted or deformed, but I already have it corrected, let's see how it turns out.
Great!
Best ever! Great step by step information and detailed guide. Kudos!
Thank you! Glad to hear you enjoyed it 😉
Thank you very much Mr. Vidal. I am “tooling up” to add my many concepts from brain to paper and subsequently to my wrist, ( or someone else’s) !! As the ALPINIST is my absolute favorite Seiko, your video WILL be played excessively. I’m 60 so I need to “get off my arse” and make it happen. Also, I need those screwdrivers you use!! They must fit. This msg ran long, I am sorry!! I appreciate the INSPIRATION. BYRON
The hardest thing is to start, I know the feeling!
I’d get some nice screwdrivers, it’s something you use all the time, and tweezers of course.
Bergeon stainless steel 9 pieces on a rotating stand would be my recommendation:
www.cousinsuk.com/product/bergeon-screwdriver-sets-rotating-stands
As a beginner, I’ve learned to loosen, or work on one part at a time rather than having several parts loose at once. This way, I can only lose or destroy one part at a time.
Good thinking! 👍
Thanks so much Leo. I agree with Chris that this video was perfect and I learned so much as I had not worked on a day/date movement before.
Glad it was helpful 🙂
Absolutely astonishing. As luck would have it, I need this information and the way you presented it!! BRAVO x2. And thank you.
Regards,
tIME4tIME Byron
Thank you!
My latest video is the Seiko Alpinist 6R15 movement which is very, very similar to the NH36 and I’d dare say that the video is better than this one so if you need the info, the Alpinist video might also help you 👍
Thank you for the video!!! Awesome!!!
My pleasure! 👍
Your photographic (videographic?) skills are amazing.
Thank you! My newer videos are better, the 6R15 is very similar to this one, check it out.
That will be the Moebius 9501 grease 👍
Hi thanks for the tutorial. The commentary is fantastic & very detailed. I’ve watched the video a few time trying to listen on which types of oil & grease you use. Is there any chance you could clarify which oils & grease you use. I think I have them written down correctly but would like to make sure. Thank you
It’s a while ago I did this video but to guide you, I use Moebius oils/greases.
Train 9010, 9020, HP1300, HP500, pallet stones 941, mainspring 8200, keyless 9501 but I use mainly 9504 now instead.
I can’t remember which I used for this pocket watch but I’d imagine that’s what I used.
I would suggest switching the subtitles on. They are not auto generated, I painstakingly typed them out so it can be clear what I’m saying, mainly for the technical words and the lubricants. I hope that helps!
Amazing how well built the movement is considering how inexpensive it is. In a lot of ways i think its a better design than some of the swiss ones out there
For the money, you really can’t beat it. I have very recently uploaded the 6R15 and it’s almost the same movement. There are differences there but only very slight and the 6R15 is almost 10 times the price
This is a fantastic video. Thank you and nice work.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This 4R36 assembly vid (and the prior 4R36 disassembly vid) are terrific... well done! I'm about to buy a Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51, and it is great to know what is inside down to the tiniest screw. I wonder why Seiko chose to make so many of the parts of the day/date motion works out of plastic?
The plastic, it's a 'fuse'. If you change the day or date at the wrong time, close to midnight, you'll break the plastic but the plastic won't cause any damage to the metal parts it interacts with. So there will be damage but not as extensive.
The 4R36 is almost the same as the 6R15. I did a more recent video, the Alpinist where you will see it better, especially the day change, manual by the user and and at midnight when it changes automatically.
I'm proud.
Well done! 👍
Realmente excepcional! Nunca había visto un macro de esta calidad en reparación de relojes. Bravo!!
Thank you very much Sir! Nice to hear you’re enjoying the macro. All of my videos are done under macro, check them out if you want 👍
What kind of magnification are you using? Is it a microscope or just a camera lens?
Excellent instructional video!
It's a macro lens
Thank you Leo, excellent 2 videos I learnt a lot
It always gives me pleasure to hear that the videos I make are useful and others can learn from them 😉
Hi leo, got a question for you, what bergeon mainspring winder did you use to put spring back? Awesome video, thank you for sharing.
I can’t remember I’m afraid. It’s a couple of years ago I did that video. Probably number 7. It should be seen in the video.
AS I see this ONE of the Best of the Best of the Best watch explanation and GREAT High Quality filming, THX for the hard work to put it on for seeing, how you do it is like miracle of watch assembly etc. THX from SWEDEN & TH ;) ...
Thank you very much! How nice to see you appreciate the hard work. It really is, just editing the footage takes several weeks. There’s more to come in future.
@@MacroTime28800 THX a lot for your kind replay back to me Leo ... /// McRoman... I forward this and I hope you have more viewer too...
Thank you, I’m very glad you’re enjoying my videos.
Hi Leo, Thanks so much for so exhaustive step-by-step manual for this movement, I lost count of how many times I rewatched them :) I just have a question about cleaning the movement and jewels. You mentioned that you are using horological cleaning fluid. Are you using this fluid only for cleaning jewels or for all parts exclusively? Can you please share the details about the fluid? Also would be interesting to see a video of how you clean the parts, especially if you do it manually rather than in the cleaning machine. Cheers and thanks for the awesome content!
I used to use Horosolv to clean everything, not just the jewels but now I use a watch cleaning machine and fluids that are for the machine.
You need Horosolv or Renata fluid 👍
Can I ask why you didn’t lubricate the jewel that the palate fork locates whilst you was lubricating the escape wheel jewel sorry for asking I’m new at watch making and I’m curious to know if the palate fork jewel is best left dry. Thanks, I am so grateful for your work and sharing your skills with us.
I’m not absolutely sure why the pallet fork pivots are not supposed to be lubricated. I have heard a number of reasons, the movement is minimal, the amplitude will drop if lubrication is used…
In any case, it is widely accepted that the pallet fork pivots are not supposed to be lubricated. Most manuals will tell you not to lubricate them. As far as I know, only the odd Seiko manual will tell you to lubricate them, but not all.
Regardless of what the Seiko manuals state, I don’t know anyone who lubricates them.
On the other hand, the pallet jewels, they make contact with the escape wheel, there is a lot of friction going on all the time, they need to be lubricated 👍
Como sabes, las potensas traen también una base con garras para sujetar la platina y centrar por el puente de cubo y posteriormente aplicar las rimas,,, felicitaciones,,, muy bueno todo,
Thank you! 👍
I am having an issue where my intermediate wheel for date corrector is getting jammed. Everything seems to work aside from this one wheel. Turning clockwise it will get jammed. Counter-clockwise, it will not. Not sure what the issue is. The Day Date corrector wheel had a tooth broken off when I bought it. Hence someone forced it and broke that wheel. I changed that wheel but the wheel for Date Corrector is still getting jammed. Any help would be appreciated.
I would check the post for the day-date corrector that it is absolutely straight.
Also the date setting wheel that interacts with the day-date corrector is made out of plastic and as there was some force applied, it would have been these two plastic wheels that would have been affected. It may be worth changing that wheel as well.
Thanks for the fantastic video. Could you suggest one or two entry level watches having the same or any other upgraded movement?
Admittedly I don’t look at watches, I’m more interested in the technical aspect of them. I know there are plenty of entry level Seiko watches with the 4R35/4R36, dress watches, divers etc.
I have recently published the Seiko Alpinist with the 6R15 movement but I’m not sure whether you’d consider it as an entry level watch, it now costs double the price than what it used cost when I bought it.
Take a look if you want:
th-cam.com/video/u1mauXZilfA/w-d-xo.html
@@MacroTime28800 Thanks a lot for replying. I would have considered it quite below entry level but about 5-6 yrs ago. now it's at least 3 times the price at least in my country. I just checked it's at around 60k INR here, cannot consider it entry level. Probably will have to look elsewhere. I actually had omega 2255.80 for a long time along with other swiss watches but something terrible happened in 2017 and I had to sell off all my watches.
I have just started to get my feet back on the ground but having a stroke seeing the price inflation. Even an alpinist is out of my reach now!
Anyhow, thanks for your videos, immensely enjoying them. so detailed, and your voice is quite soothing yet clear.
Remain in good health pls.
Thank you so much for this helpfull video. I tried today to dissasemble and assemble a nh35 movement. I think I did well for the first time, I needed almost 9 hours 😅 But unfortunately I can't get the balance to swing, not sure if I did something wrong with the pellet fork or with balance...
Very difficult to say without seeing it. Perhaps the roller jewel is on the wrong side of the pallet fork 🤔
Excellent tutorial, what size and make oiler are you using.
I use the Bergeon ergonomic oilers. The blue and red are the ones that I use most.
Excellent video, please make more
I'm working on it ;-)
Hi Leo,
Can you please suggest which horological fluid are you using to clean the capstones? You mentioned it several times during the video. Links would be really helpful. Thanks!
I use Horosolv or Renata if I clean it manually then I rinse it in IPA 👍
www.cousinsuk.com/category/watch-hairspring-degreaser-cleaning-fluids
Hi Sir, I am new to watch repair and heard you say to wear an apron to catch small parts before hitting the floor. What style of apron and material? I have an old leather apron from blacksmithing I use to wear many years ago that I can use and not have to go buy a special apron but unsure if the small parts would bounce off the leather? I bring this up because just last night while I was working on a movement, I lost the smallest of setting works gears I have ever seen. Maybe 1mm across! I think it went to the floor.
Any apron is better than none. If you have leather, it’s fine.
You could also improvise and make something out of a bed sheet or something like that. Ideally white, it’s easier to see the parts on white. It would be lighter and more comfortable than heavy leather 👍
Very interesting, with a lot of details, it must be difficult to work on the movement with the camera above.
The amplitude that I measure on my new movement King turtle is 270° too with the good 53° lift angle on the timegrapher dial up, the rate was good at 6s/D and 0.1 ms beat error, so I was lucky.
When I see the amplitude at the end with a clean and well lubricate movement, we can clearly see that the mouvement out of stock with industrial manufacturing process is on low spec regulation. The magic lever is always a marvellous mechanical design to see in action, but the manual winding gears seem a bit undersized.
It is a little tricky because the lens is just there, I have very little space around me due to the set up.
The magic lever is really magic. I love the way it’s been designed, very nice to watch in action when you test the operation.
Hello Leo, great video. I am trying to assemble this movement but can not get the balance to wheel to engage with the pallet fork properly...do you have any advice.
I checked the pallet fork and believe it is set properly since I can make it oscillate manually with a small scewdriver.
Than you.
Is the roller jewel where it should be? Not on one of the sides of the pallet fork horn?
When it’s stopped, the roller jewel should be resting in the notch of the pallet fork, is that what you can see?
I was following another video for a 7S26 assembly, but it's not clear. I will follow your video, it's almost the same components.
Glad to hear it's helpful 👍
Excellent filming and explanation.
Thank you. I am glad you enjoyed it.
@@MacroTime28800 I recently purchased a Seiko 5 with this movement and would like to try some watch repair I have been enthralled with the TH-cam videos but I am pleased to see your excellent really close filming which I would certainly use to guide me should I pluck up enough courage to attempt a disassembly. I think I need to buy a cheap movement and have a go..
@@paulperry8614 You can always purchase the NH36 to train on first, they are widely available and they are inexpensive. The NH36 will be very similar to the Seiko 5 movement, presumably it is 7s26 movement
I enjoyed that. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Благодарю Вас за видео и внимательные комментарии! 👌👍
Thank you! 🙂 👍
Just had my 1st attempt at the mainspring barrel, it was officially tricky. Any tips on opening without causing damage?
It’s not designed for opening so you will most likely mark it no matter what but shouldn’t damage it. If I remember correctly, I used a scalpel.
Thank you for posting this video! This is one of the most extensive oiling references. I will be using this as a reference to learn how to oil automatic movements. Is there a specific reason that you use 9501 grease? I have 9504 which seems to work fine as an alternative. Also what about using 8217 instead of 8213?
9504 didn't exist when I made the video. If you look at my recent videos you will see me using 5904 grease.
I think 8217 should work fine 👍
@@MacroTime28800 Okay, Thank you!
Leo, what size oiler are you using at 20:35, my oilers are too big, I ended up using a pin.
That's the blue one. I mainly use the the red and blue one. It's the Bergeon ergonomic.
Leo
Thanks for putting out great videos I watched the NH35 service every time I work on the movement.
I do have a question:
Seiko NH35 what is the best Bergeon mainspring winder # or combo for the barrel?
Thanks
I just looked at the video and used the number 7.
I remember it wasn't ideal but it worked 👍
@@MacroTime28800 thanks for the quick reply, I’ll get a left handed #7. I used a vintage winder and to arbor was very large I thought I was going to break the spring.
Thanks
The arbour no. 7 is a little large but it worked.
Amazing video - thank you !
Thank you. Good to hear you enjoyed it!
Thank you, Very good.
Thank you! 🙂
I have. Observed your video , it’s appreciated Explained. with video excellent . Way. Thanks. I purchased citizen automatic watch. , the Key ROD
Not. Comes released. Out, please advise how to open key Rod , thanks. Again,❤️❤️
I'm sorry I don't know. I have never worked on a Citizen
This is very interesting as i would love to learn how to do this wacth makein on my very own seiko divers skx as well as my Seiko Samurais i love knowing about this art Thank you !
You can do it! One warning though, watchmaking tools are very expensive 😠
Thanks for explaining which oils you use where, as that is soemthing i struggle finding out anywhere else
I’m glad you find it helpful. Google ‘BHI oiling guide’ and you will see a BHI pdf on BHI and NAWCC website. This is a very helpful guide, what oils and greases to use, how much to apply, using epilame etc.
Great detail!
Glad you like it! Thank you.
At 25:47 i see you holding the screwdriver with a pair of tweezers. First time i see anyone doing this. Is this your personal way to stabilize the screwdriver or is it more common and i just have not seen enough pro service videos?
I’ve seen others doing it too. It is also mentioned in one of the books listed in the description below. It allows me to insert the blade into the slot precisely without accidentally marking the head.
Good production video
Thank you, I'm glad you like it!
Is the NH36 movement the same as the 4R36? Is the box compatible for both?
It’s the same movement, it’s just the branding that’s different.
I’m not sure what you mean by ‘box’.
Wonderful video!!!
Glad you liked it!
great video. congratulations you did a great job. I joined the channel right away. sorry for my bad english. Grazie
Thank you very much for the sub! I’m glad to hear you enjoy my videos.
Your English is absolutely fine. If you struggle to understand me at times, you can turn the subtitles on. I do my own subtitles because this is technical stuff and I can imagine the auto generated subtitles wouldn’t be great. I don’t know how the translation to your language works out but it will be better than translation from auto generated subtitles.
*Your English in this comment was perfect.*
I am new to the watch collecting I've learned how to do some modern can you tell me what the 1st name saico means I know the NH36 movement what is the 1st name that comes up before NH36
I’m not sure whether I understand your question. The Seiko NH36 is without the Seiko branding. The 4R36 is with the branding so it is Seiko 4R36. You will not see ‘Seiko’ stamped anywhere on the NH36 movement but essentially it is the Seiko movement even though it is not stamped.
Hi Leo. What would you use instead of Seiko S-4 for the pallet lever? Thanks
I presume you mean the pallet stones. Moebius 941.
941 up to 21600 and 9415 high frequency.
No lubrication on the pallet fork pivots.
No, I am sorry. For palet stones I intend to use as usual in the Swiss movements, 9415. I was speaking about the only place where Seiko is using S-4, the little "pawl lever", see minute 22:37. Thanks
You could use 9501
@MacroTime28800 thank you. I wanted to buy seiko s4 but in 15mg is too much wasted in my case. Many thanks!!!
My balance wheel is not turning, it will in other movements but not in the one i just assembled, everything seems good, i cant work it out, any ideas?
Difficult to say without being able to inspect it. The roller jewel can sometimes end up on the wrong side of the pallet fork during installation.
List of lubricants used:
Mobius 9501 (or 9504) grease (keyless works, teeth of automatic works reduction wheel, outside of cannon pinion
HP1300 grease (barrel arbor, 2nd reduction wheel jewel, 2nd reduction wheel pivot, day date corrector wheels C and E, minute wheel post)
Mobius 8200 (mainspring)
Mobius 8213 braking grease (barrel wall)
Mobius 9010 grease (3rd wheel pivot, main plate jewels, cap jewels, day date corrector fixed wheel, day date corrector wheel B, under day date corrector wheel (plastic), oscillating weight bearings)
Mobius 9415 (exit pallet stone)
Seiko S4 grease ( under automatic works 1st reduction wheel)
Can you use this combination on all automatic watches?
You'll also need breaking grease on the barrel walls for automatics.
Thanks, I missed that one. Added to list.
If you sell a kit with all the tools and grease I would def buy it!
Sorry I don't sell tools ☹
What is the name of the tool you use to apply the oil?
That one like look like a little screwdriver.
automatic oiler - Bergeon 7718-1A
amazing 👏👏👏
Thank you! 😊
Thanks!
Thank you! 🙂
Na to czekałem. Pozdrawiam.
Good to hear that. The next video should be finished mid January.
how does the apron help when dealing with the bridge jewels?
If they fly towards you they will land in the apron. Much easier to see and find them opposed to searching for them on the floor 👍
Leo excellent video bud yesterday i learnt a lesson i will never forget .I was trying to install the Balance and i could not do it 1.5 hrs later i gave up for that day . the next day i went back and to try again and released what i had done the watch movement was in the Hacking position and the small wheel that rest on the balance wheel was the problem it was stopping me getting it in the proper position i put the stem in and moved it and it went in just like that ¯\_(ツ)_/¯♥.
I sometimes spend hours on one thing and then give up. And like you, the next day when I get to it, I find that it was something very simple. These are the best lessons you never forget. Keep going!
Why are the date drive wheel and those white ones plastic?
I believe they are plastic to save costs - make them cheaper
why using Moebius 9010 on the third wheel ?
Did I? I'd use 9020 these days or whatever the manufacturer recommends. The BHI oiling guide calls for 9010 or 9020 but I think the 9020 would be a better choice
Excelent vídeo 👏🇧🇷
Thank you very much!
Nice work. I assume nobody would ever pay, to get this serviced. A whole new movement is 25 bucks. 🤷
I think you’re probably right. I can’t even see Seiko servicing their movements. It would cost them more to employ someone to service them than to put a new movement in. That’s just a guess, I don’t know what they do.
It’s not economical to service these movements, it’s cheaper to put a new one in but there will be people who will be attached to their watches, they will want the original movement in the watch and will prefer to pay more to have it serviced rather than swapping it for a new one.
I service myself follow book😅😅😅😅
👏👏
👍
What do you use for lubricate te parts?
It’s a while ago I did this video but I’m positive I always said which lubricants I was applying. Did you have the sound switched on? It should also be in the subtitles. They are not auto generated, I typed them myself to avoid any confusion.
Thanks!!
My english is not good, but I gonna pay atention.
If you switch the subtitles on, you will see the names of the oils as I’m applying them, they will be 9010, 9020, D5/HP1300, 9501 etc.
Thank you so much for your video and your time, it is really helpfully.
No problem 👍
When you say lighter fluid which type of lighter fluid
I do not use any lighter fluid. I use L&R cleaning solutions and when I need to clean something by hand I will use Horosolv degreaser or Renata essence, followed by a rinse in IPA unless there is shellac and in that case I will use Bergeon B Dip.
It was stated in one of my horology books I have here that lighter fluid should not be used because lighter fluid is contaminated with a small amount of oil, making lighter fuel a very poor degreaser. Very small particles of oil will be left on any part that you try and clean when using this substance. This will inevitably introduce oil spreading.
Great content but I cannot get past the fork and escape wheel 🙁
Sorry, I’m not sure what you mean by you can’t get past the pallet fork and escape wheel.
The escape wheel is in when you install the train and then you put the pallet fork in.
@@MacroTime28800 The pallet fork doesn't align with the escapement wheel and so can not do its job, getting the movement stck.
Is it new?
A silly question but I have to ask to rule it out, the pallet fork is not upside down?
@@MacroTime28800 Brand new movement (bought it to practice on it since I am just starting out). The pallet fork is not upside down.
OK. So I presume you installed the train, the barrel, centre wheel, 3rd wheel, 4th wheel and the escape wheel. They are secured under the bridge and everything is working nicely?
The pallet fork is under its bridge?
45:06 the balance at first shot... me after 4 hours, still no go for me... about to give up.
Sometimes it’s hard work. Have a break, an hour, a day or two, whatever you need but never give up!
👏👏👏👏🤝🏻👍🏻🇧🇷
Thank you! 😉🇬🇧