The jet tube should be flush with the bridge to start. Screw the fuel adjuster down no more than half a turn. Fitting the air cleaners will raise the idle speed a little, so allow for that when setting the idle and fast idle speeds if the venturi are open. One thing to check if you're still having trouble with jet adjustment is that it's easy to dislodge the jet lift arm fork off the jet if it's been screwed to its limit either way. You'd need to take the carb off and remove the fuel plenum chamber base plate to check the lift fork is correctly in position to adjust the jet. The fork fits in a collar on the jet. The jet needle should be set flush with the surround on the damper piston. Check the needle is not bent, and is a smooth taper. Use only metal polish, T Cut or similar any deep scratch, bend or wear and you need to replace the needles and jet tubes as they're machined as a pair. Mystery air leaks can affect the mixture. The most common leaks are from the butterfly spindles either side of the carb body. Pack some grease or Vaseline around the spindle bearing. It will suck the grease in if there's an air suction issue, more noticeable when the air cleaner are fitted. You can test air leaks around the valley gasket using leak detector fluid like gas engineers use. An alternative is strong soapy water in a spray bottle. You'll see it being sucked in if it's leaking vacuum. You can also mist carb or brake cleaner aerosol around suspect leaks on the engine side of the jets. Sucked in aerosol will make the engine rev. Those rocker covers are not from an SD1, they're P5B / P6B type. SD1 rocker covers only have the ribbed pattern on top, they don't go all the way to where it meets the cylinder head. If you can find the engine numbers, I should be able to tell you what engine type it is and what type of vehicle it came from the factory in. There are dozens of prefix to the engine numbers and each denotes exactly what state of tune, fuel system, if it had air injection afterburn emmission system, even if it was Lh or Rh drive, and which country it was for. If it was originally fitted with air injection afterburn, often you will see it has blanking studs fitted in holes on the exhaust ports on the cylinder heads.they would have had pipework from an air pump fitted to inject air into the exhaust to fire any unburnt fuel in the manifols and downpipes.
1. Points 2. Plugs 3. Timing 4. Carb Synchronisation (do they open at the same time) 5. Carb jet, initial setting to get them at the same point, replace dashpot oil and set to correct level 6. Carb balancing so they flow the same air at tickover 7. Then, and only then is it time to fiddle with the mixture This is the method I use with my twin SU'd Mini.
Hi Sheldon. I've recently discovered your channel and it's thoroughly enjoyable , especially the feedback you get in the comments discussing problems. You're a great presenter and I hope you have much success bringing these cars back to life.
Inside the dizzy make sure the advance weights are free and returning on the springs. I'm glad to be learning along with you because I'm a carpenter and my mechanic skills are very limited so these vids help alot for my upcoming P6 budget resto, cheers mate from Adelaide Australia.
See as I said sort the carbs out But I would also change the plugs (bosch in stead of champion) I only run champions in my lawn mower change the points and condencer dissy and rotor button change the oil oil filter fuel filter then recheck the carbs and recheck the timing and I recon happy days.I am from Australia and a motor mechanic by trade for some 40 years and love tinkering with these old things and have a friend who is in the rover club of Australia and i have rebult a lot of these engines and automatic trans electrics and pretty much every thing else on these things and thoughly enjoy it so watching what you pair are doing is enjoyable.Just thought of this take the vacuum line off the vacuume brake cylinder and block it off I have seen the diaphram perish and suck loads of air through it so if the vacum line is disconected and blocked off and the engine runs better you need to replace the vacum brake cylender diaphram.One last thing aftre seting the carbs up the skinner union carbs(SU) carbs I also final tune them with a vacuum guage to make sure they are perfectley ballanced and as I said sort the dizzy out points condencer replaced plugs after I have done all that I have been able to put a Glass of water on the intake manifold and not got a ripple in the water once there set right and the engine runs like brand new as I think this one will as long as the intake manifold gasket is ok but I would replace it as they go bad all the time.
In my opinion all the carb tinkering is a complete waste of time until you've sorted out the obvious induction air leak. If you can practically cover the carb inlets and the engine is still running then it's sucking air from somewhere. Fix that first before tuning the carbs. Other than that I think this is the best P6 I've seen you with and having followed your channel(s) from way back that's a lot of cars! Hoping for a happy ending this time. Which reminds me. I believe you've still not passed your driving test. That just boggles my mind. How many cars have you owned? What are cars designed to do? Assuming you don't drive them illegally you can't appreciate them properly going back and forth on a bit of private land or just sitting in the passenger seat. Properly driving a car is a full body, through the seat of your pants, experience. Unless you're happy to never have that with any of your own cars then you need to re-examine your priorities. I wish you well, but this needed to be said. Sorry bud 😞
Mixture adjustment is a waste of time if you have an air leak,smear grease over the seals/gaskets around the intake & see if it settles,this with give you an idea where is sucking air in 👍nice beast, hope you have success in sorting out the teething troubles👍
I drained my oil, filled it with a cheapish one and ran it for 500 miles. I drained it again and put in the good stuff. Then I put in a bottle of ZX-1. (not an oil treatment, like some believe, it's a metal treatment). You'll see/feel the difference. Get that baby to a rolling road.
Got a genuine SU book and set them up as one was to rich and one was to week so done the 2 turns anti clockwise the finely set them with a vernier gauge then set the tick over using and carb balencer to 850rpm and got the correct oil for the dash pots and it runs a lot better.
Hi Sheldon, Before you part with your lovely Rover, I've heard mixing some Wynns engine flush with existing oil, give it a run, then put a thinner grade oil in and give it an Italian tune up? May be worth a shot?
When it's running, spray a bit of WD40 around the inlet manifold/valley gasket and carb gaskets and see if the idle changes. If it does then there are air leaks which will cause bad running due to excess air and a lean mixture. Any manifold leaks will need fixing before carburettor adjustments can be carried out. Also worth checking crank breathers and vacuum lines including the vacuum advance pipe to the distributor for signs of pin holes, perishing, splits, softness.
No sign of a fuel filter? Are there jets in the carbs to clean? At tickover you can spray brake cleaner where you suspect leaks and if it picks up revs, you know it's got an air leak. Good luck with the tinkering 👍🤗🇮🇪
@brianmac8260 you should take a spin up to cars and coffee in dundalk dkit carpark first Sunday of every month and you can wander around there, lot's of car people there, you never know who you'd bump into, I've enjoyed chatting to all sorts, my thing is fiat's and met some people with plenty of advice.
To remove stubborn plugs you will have to get hold of a thin wall plug socket, preferably 1/2" drive. The outside diameter will have to be no larger than 27 mm. I ended up turning the outside down in the lathe to a length of 32 mm so it will reach the bottom of the plug hole without binding on the cylinder head. It's worth also getting a 1/2" universal joint socket as well for the hard to get to plugs.
That box spanner doesn't look like it's a Rover one, it's more like a tool shop universal one. The genuine factory one is around 5 inches long and the handle maybe 6 inches. I have a few of them and never use anything else on a Rover V8, it keeps hands further fron the hot exhaust.The genuine one supplied in the car tool kit had a long L shape handle that could be taken out. It had a grooved ring on the short end to locate it in the box spanner, and a flattened end on the long arm. You could get proper leverage on it to shift really tight plugs. You could also slip a tube over the handle end for extra leverage if they had gummed themselves in or been over tightened with a ratchet or swivel bar.. Best to spray a little penetrating oil around the thread once it moves. It's easy to strip the thread in the alloy heads. They don't need to be mega tight, a good pull on the factory supplied plug spanner is all they need as the seal washer expands once heated.
Jeeze l haven’t seen a Sparkrite electronic ignition since l had my Triumph Vitesse back in the late 70’s. The best way of finding an air leak is to set the engine at a fast ldle around 2,000 rpm then go round the engine spraying WD40 if the engine RPM rises you’ve found the air leak. If you have one at all that is. To set the carbs l used to use a piece of pipe about 1/4 inch bore with one end next to the damper piston the other end to your ear with the car idling the hissing sound should be the same pitch on both pistons if they are in balance, if not remove the connecting rod adjust ONE carb until they sound the same, readjust connecting rod so it pops back on without changing idle speed, job done.
@@Munter1 The good old Sparkrite 2000, I had one fitted to all my Rover V8s pre SD1. They were so finely tuned that they'd fire on the first revolution. The plastic tube is great if you don't have a ballance, but you need a good ear to determine the slightest difference. The proper tool is a bridge balance, for V8, or multi carb engines. Looks a bit like a pair of adjustable wide audio headphones, with a vacuum gauge sat central on the bridge, so the needle pulls off centre if they're out. You really need to separate both the link bars because they really need feeler gauges to accurately set the gap between the lock screws and quadrant cams on each carb. It is a pain, but they'll tick over very quiet when they're set. I used to tune mine to the point of almost running lean. Great mpg, and never had a problem with them pulling like a turbine from as little as 500rpm on a 3500S. I set the idle around 600rpm on the autos to avoid stalling when cold and fast idle around11-1200rpm. on 4star/ unleaded and a 6 degree BTDC. I can imagine they werent set so accurate on the production line. I always use carb cleaner,just a snif quickly detects a leak and revs it up. Triumph Vitesse, great car, I had one of the last 2 litre mk1 saloons in white with red trim as one of my first cars back around 1976/7. Can't find it on the DVLA register now, but I did sell it to a guy who track raced them, so it could still be in use.
Not sure it is an SD1 engine as they came with the new electronic distributer yours still seems to have points which you have to gap, they were never great suction of air and putting the back of your fingers as a test you might as well use same to gauge one of your Farts😂 on inhalation!!, I ran 4 V8's over time kept them hard driven & poorly shod and they never ever let me down!!. hence forward motion to get forced air induction as opposed to Idle/reving.
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The jet tube should be flush with the bridge to start. Screw the fuel adjuster down no more than half a turn. Fitting the air cleaners will raise the idle speed a little, so allow for that when setting the idle and fast idle speeds if the venturi are open. One thing to check if you're still having trouble with jet adjustment is that it's easy to dislodge the jet lift arm fork off the jet if it's been screwed to its limit either way. You'd need to take the carb off and remove the fuel plenum chamber base plate to check the lift fork is correctly in position to adjust the jet. The fork fits in a collar on the jet. The jet needle should be set flush with the surround on the damper piston. Check the needle is not bent, and is a smooth taper. Use only metal polish, T Cut or similar any deep scratch, bend or wear and you need to replace the needles and jet tubes as they're machined as a pair. Mystery air leaks can affect the mixture. The most common leaks are from the butterfly spindles either side of the carb body. Pack some grease or Vaseline around the spindle bearing. It will suck the grease in if there's an air suction issue, more noticeable when the air cleaner are fitted. You can test air leaks around the valley gasket using leak detector fluid like gas engineers use. An alternative is strong soapy water in a spray bottle. You'll see it being sucked in if it's leaking vacuum. You can also mist carb or brake cleaner aerosol around suspect leaks on the engine side of the jets. Sucked in aerosol will make the engine rev. Those rocker covers are not from an SD1, they're P5B / P6B type. SD1 rocker covers only have the ribbed pattern on top, they don't go all the way to where it meets the cylinder head. If you can find the engine numbers, I should be able to tell you what engine type it is and what type of vehicle it came from the factory in. There are dozens of prefix to the engine numbers and each denotes exactly what state of tune, fuel system, if it had air injection afterburn emmission system, even if it was Lh or Rh drive, and which country it was for. If it was originally fitted with air injection afterburn, often you will see it has blanking studs fitted in holes on the exhaust ports on the cylinder heads.they would have had pipework from an air pump fitted to inject air into the exhaust to fire any unburnt fuel in the manifols and downpipes.
Great to have you back! It’s made my week having these 3 instalments to enjoy over the last few days
1. Points
2. Plugs
3. Timing
4. Carb Synchronisation (do they open at the same time)
5. Carb jet, initial setting to get them at the same point, replace dashpot oil and set to correct level
6. Carb balancing so they flow the same air at tickover
7. Then, and only then is it time to fiddle with the mixture
This is the method I use with my twin SU'd Mini.
Hi Sheldon. I've recently discovered your channel and it's thoroughly enjoyable , especially the feedback you get in the comments discussing problems. You're a great presenter and I hope you have much success bringing these cars back to life.
Hi Sheldon can't wait for test drive mate.... Cheers 🍻
Inside the dizzy make sure the advance weights are free and returning on the springs. I'm glad to be learning along with you because I'm a carpenter and my mechanic skills are very limited so these vids help alot for my upcoming P6 budget resto, cheers mate from Adelaide Australia.
That is a lovely car, and sounding a lot better. Best wishes.
See as I said sort the carbs out But I would also change the plugs (bosch in stead of champion) I only run champions in my lawn mower change the points and condencer dissy and rotor button change the oil oil filter fuel filter then recheck the carbs and recheck the timing and I recon happy days.I am from Australia and a motor mechanic by trade for some 40 years and love tinkering with these old things and have a friend who is in the rover club of Australia and i have rebult a lot of these engines and automatic trans electrics and pretty much every thing else on these things and thoughly enjoy it so watching what you pair are doing is enjoyable.Just thought of this take the vacuum line off the vacuume brake cylinder and block it off I have seen the diaphram perish and suck loads of air through it so if the vacum line is disconected and blocked off and the engine runs better you need to replace the vacum brake cylender diaphram.One last thing aftre seting the carbs up the skinner union carbs(SU) carbs I also final tune them with a vacuum guage to make sure they are perfectley ballanced and as I said sort the dizzy out points condencer replaced plugs after I have done all that I have been able to put a Glass of water on the intake manifold and not got a ripple in the water once there set right and the engine runs like brand new as I think this one will as long as the intake manifold gasket is ok but I would replace it as they go bad all the time.
Beautiful burble of the Rover V8….👍🏻
In my opinion all the carb tinkering is a complete waste of time until you've sorted out the obvious induction air leak. If you can practically cover the carb inlets and the engine is still running then it's sucking air from somewhere. Fix that first before tuning the carbs.
Other than that I think this is the best P6 I've seen you with and having followed your channel(s) from way back that's a lot of cars! Hoping for a happy ending this time.
Which reminds me. I believe you've still not passed your driving test. That just boggles my mind.
How many cars have you owned?
What are cars designed to do?
Assuming you don't drive them illegally you can't appreciate them properly going back and forth on a bit of private land or just sitting in the passenger seat.
Properly driving a car is a full body, through the seat of your pants, experience.
Unless you're happy to never have that with any of your own cars then you need to re-examine your priorities. I wish you well, but this needed to be said. Sorry bud 😞
Yeah I know I am going to change the vally gasket
Great video, you're knocking them out every day now lol
I like Davids pub cruiser.
A nice car there, I like that colour.
Mixture adjustment is a waste of time if you have an air leak,smear grease over the seals/gaskets around the intake & see if it settles,this with give you an idea where is sucking air in 👍nice beast, hope you have success in sorting out the teething troubles👍
Hello just an idea try spraying wd 40 around cab gasket..
If idle goes up then you have a vacuum leak.👍
Good to see you back m8
I drained my oil, filled it with a cheapish one and ran it for 500 miles. I drained it again and put in the good stuff. Then I put in a bottle of ZX-1. (not an oil treatment, like some believe, it's a metal treatment). You'll see/feel the difference. Get that baby to a rolling road.
Got a genuine SU book and set them up as one was to rich and one was to week so done the 2 turns anti clockwise the finely set them with a vernier gauge then set the tick over using and carb balencer to 850rpm and got the correct oil for the dash pots and it runs a lot better.
Getting there sheldon 👍
Hi Sheldon,
Before you part with your lovely Rover, I've heard mixing some Wynns engine flush with existing oil, give it a run, then put a thinner grade oil in and give it an Italian tune up?
May be worth a shot?
When it's running, spray a bit of WD40 around the inlet manifold/valley gasket and carb gaskets and see if the idle changes. If it does then there are air leaks which will cause bad running due to excess air and a lean mixture. Any manifold leaks will need fixing before carburettor adjustments can be carried out. Also worth checking crank breathers and vacuum lines including the vacuum advance pipe to the distributor for signs of pin holes, perishing, splits, softness.
Getting there ! David to the rescue :)
No sign of a fuel filter? Are there jets in the carbs to clean? At tickover you can spray brake cleaner where you suspect leaks and if it picks up revs, you know it's got an air leak. Good luck with the tinkering 👍🤗🇮🇪
I'm in Louth Terry, my TC needs a good tuning, you know anyone?
@brianmac8260 you should take a spin up to cars and coffee in dundalk dkit carpark first Sunday of every month and you can wander around there, lot's of car people there, you never know who you'd bump into, I've enjoyed chatting to all sorts, my thing is fiat's and met some people with plenty of advice.
Is it sucking air from somewhere else? Like the plenum chamber gaskets?
Unbalanced carbs are never good though not as serious when both feed into a single manifold. AT fluid dipstick nearside indicates a BW65 transmission.
If you need anything sorted out get an old bloke in.
The V8 burble is back!
Good old David glad to see him again sheldon
It looks like an early low compression engine, I suspect it’s a ignition timing issue.
To remove stubborn plugs you will have to get hold of a thin wall plug socket, preferably 1/2" drive. The outside diameter will have to be no larger than 27 mm. I ended up turning the outside down in the lathe to a length of 32 mm so it will reach the bottom of the plug hole without binding on the cylinder head. It's worth also getting a 1/2" universal joint socket as well for the hard to get to plugs.
That box spanner doesn't look like it's a Rover one, it's more like a tool shop universal one. The genuine factory one is around 5 inches long and the handle maybe 6 inches. I have a few of them and never use anything else on a Rover V8, it keeps hands further fron the hot exhaust.The genuine one supplied in the car tool kit had a long L shape handle that could be taken out. It had a grooved ring on the short end to locate it in the box spanner, and a flattened end on the long arm. You could get proper leverage on it to shift really tight plugs. You could also slip a tube over the handle end for extra leverage if they had gummed themselves in or been over tightened with a ratchet or swivel bar.. Best to spray a little penetrating oil around the thread once it moves. It's easy to strip the thread in the alloy heads. They don't need to be mega tight, a good pull on the factory supplied plug spanner is all they need as the seal washer expands once heated.
Jeeze l haven’t seen a Sparkrite electronic ignition since l had my Triumph Vitesse back in the late 70’s.
The best way of finding an air leak is to set the engine at a fast ldle around 2,000 rpm then go round the engine spraying WD40 if the engine RPM rises you’ve found the air leak. If you have one at all that is.
To set the carbs l used to use a piece of pipe about 1/4 inch bore with one end next to the damper piston the other end to your ear with the car idling the hissing sound should be the same pitch on both pistons if they are in balance, if not remove the connecting rod adjust ONE carb until they sound the same, readjust connecting rod so it pops back on without changing idle speed, job done.
@@Munter1 The good old Sparkrite 2000, I had one fitted to all my Rover V8s pre SD1. They were so finely tuned that they'd fire on the first revolution. The plastic tube is great if you don't have a ballance, but you need a good ear to determine the slightest difference. The proper tool is a bridge balance, for V8, or multi carb engines. Looks a bit like a pair of adjustable wide audio headphones, with a vacuum gauge sat central on the bridge, so the needle pulls off centre if they're out. You really need to separate both the link bars because they really need feeler gauges to accurately set the gap between the lock screws and quadrant cams on each carb. It is a pain, but they'll tick over very quiet when they're set. I used to tune mine to the point of almost running lean. Great mpg, and never had a problem with them pulling like a turbine from as little as 500rpm on a 3500S. I set the idle around 600rpm on the autos to avoid stalling when cold and fast idle around11-1200rpm. on 4star/ unleaded and a 6 degree BTDC. I can imagine they werent set so accurate on the production line. I always use carb cleaner,just a snif quickly detects a leak and revs it up. Triumph Vitesse, great car, I had one of the last 2 litre mk1 saloons in white with red trim as one of my first cars back around 1976/7. Can't find it on the DVLA register now, but I did sell it to a guy who track raced them, so it could still be in use.
Hi. Check the brake servo. Is not leaking. Will have a massive. Air leak. Cheers Clive.
Carbs. Are easy. To take off and clean
Have you tried putting fresh 99 octane fuel in, or is that running on the old petrol ?
3 gallons of fresh 99
Looks/sounds like it’s missing, are the plug leads on correctly/ firing order?
Yep
check the brake servo it could be getting false air through it if the diaphragm is leaking .
6:24 Wish could have a 3.5 v8 p6 rover it's my dream to own one to use as my daily driver
Not sure it is an SD1 engine as they came with the new electronic distributer yours still seems to have points which you have to gap, they were never great suction of air and putting the back of your fingers as a test you might as well use same to gauge one of your Farts😂 on inhalation!!, I ran 4 V8's over time kept them hard driven & poorly shod and they never ever let me down!!. hence forward motion to get forced air induction as opposed to Idle/reving.
That's hunting. You need to balance the carbs.
When is the sequel episode out please? I like these videos.
Have a look on the channel up to part 6 now!
I'm going there now!
Hi Sheldon
Im giving up just after you said you cant get the spark plugs out and they may be incorrect and a piston could be stuck….
I never said a piston could be stuck I said a ring and they are the right kind I was just thinking out loud!
@15.30 ..... just a different kind of ball so has a different clip
you need to take lessons now and pass your test great vidio
Pedestrians prefer the road to the pavement there
Penetraring fluid and let sit over night
Try blocking off the servo hose...
I would replace the SU's with a Webber.
Andrew Lloyd?
@@mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm420 Ha ha. I didn't see that coming.
2.37 - yes it's normal.
Yes its a matter of deduction Watson😅
Looks like people's notification bells aren't working 😅
And the twin su s mite need to be refurbished
When are you doing another kismet video
Kismet is gone has been for a long time
What happened to it ?
@@pennyinger256 It was to far gone and I lost my storage so it was broken for spares sadly
Ok
He scrapped that last year.@@pennyinger256