So many little nuggets of wisdom in this video - had me bashing my forehead saying "why didn't I think of that!". Like the sacrificial fence scraps on the router fence, tape holding in bits instead of wishing I was born with three or more arms. I over thought too many things in the past. Thanks!
I always cut drawers boxes 2mm narrow of the actual measured opening required. Use some small 4mm washers behind the drawer runners (if required) to take up any slack. This gives scope for some side to side adjustment and also prevents the risk of runners possibly running tight and therefore not as smooth as they could / should be.
Peter, a trick I learned doing retrofits of side slide. First, I 3D print a handful of shims, usually 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm. Then I cut the box 14mm narrower than the narrowest width of the carcass. Then I install the box with 3 screws loose and front right screw tight. Then I pull the box out, and fit a shim in the resulting gap on the front left. Then I push the box closed and fit shims on both of the back items until it's centered. This technique goes very quickly and allows me to retrofit these boxes in old cabinet carcasses that are tapered and wonky. The shim sizes allow me to go +1mm to +4mm without double stacking shims.
The reason the old school joinery method for drawer sides was dovetails, they're strong in that direction. I've had the drawer fronts pull right off of B&Q furniture in the past, it's definitely worth the extra mechanical fixing.
Great video series Peter thanks. Loving the tip of using sacrificial strips on the router fence to get clean grooves, also mounting the runners on the base so you can shim the draw up for clearance. Looking forward to the next in the series.
Hi Peter, Thank you for this video, you answered a question for me without realising. Only the other day I was thinking of building an MFT mobile bench, but would need to cut along the lengths of material and was wondering how you would do it. As the cuts are not going to be in the same place as when you cut at the end😀, I thought of a sacrificial board but didn't know what anybody else would use. So you've answered it 😀 Thank you
So accurate with your tolerances! Looking forward to my favourite slides, the Blum undermounts. Interested to see if there are fewer steps and if you will use the Blum jigs.
great video ..but i learned something astounding this week. i used the same runners too. And if you screw the runners onto the carcass using the holes in the cut out portions. They look like a c shape. the reason being is that you pull the lugs out ..just a little bit and . Then attach the runners and as you then push the drawer back in the lugs pull out and self adjust to centre the drawers...but don't use the fixed screw holes or you wont get any side to side adjustment.. it blew my mind that one. Hope it helps.
Yes - only helps with drawer boxes that are a little undersized of course, and I'd always recommend that folks get the measurements right, rather than rely on prising the runners out, or using washers. 👍
Peter, this is a great topic and I enjoyed your take. Two thoughts for my experience with these types of slides: These are a copy of the original Accuride slides, and they feature “breather tabs” on the cabinet members that do allow for a slightly undersized, but never oversized drawer, so I always opt for a mm or two on each side. The screw into the side should be positioned in the end of the tabs that are seen on the camera side of the slide around 2:16. I really like your approach to rebating the slides into your think slides. The screws designed for this slide were originally sled here isn’t he USA as “Accuride screws” and are very shallow panhead screws, almost boarding on trussheads. They allow the slide members to slide past one another without risk of impact, which can happen with flathead (aka countersunk) screws. I’m gonna take my hardware nerd hat off now! Scott
Hi Peter, I have watched and very much enjoyed your videos for quite a few years now and clearly they are world class. I stumbled across an interesting measurement tool and would be super interested to see you carry out a review of this system. From the few (American) reviews I have watched the capability of the tool is quite remarkable and when cutting a bulk of materials could save time and assure consistent accuracy which I know is very close to your heart. I do not have any commercial connection to this company, but genuinely thought would make a very interesting subject of review by yourself. Kind regards and thanks so much for producing brilliant videos. REEKON M1 Caliber Measuring Tool - available of UK Amazon.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you Peter. This tool will now work hand in hand with a new product that was launched a few days ago called T1 Tomahawk Digital Tape Measure. This device might turn tape measures on their head. I personally believe, if they work as stated, these products working together could drive real benefit into woodworking. I would love to witness your opinion. All the best, Lester Pulsford.
I used a pair of these runners recently for a large under stair shoe drawer that I built. They are very good and can hold a hell of a lot of weight (45kg the ones I used!), the lack of side to side adjustment is a downside though. I had to shim mine out slightly as the frame under the stairs was slightly out of square despite my best efforts.
It doesn't need side to side adjustment. I think I have these same slides. It wasn't really mentioned in this video but it is in the instructions, the side of the slide that attaches to the cabinet, you screw into the holes in the tabs. That way it bends and flexes inwards if it needs to. Useful as sometimes cabinet walls aren't perfectly parallel to each other, despite our best efforts.
There are some decent 'cheap' under mount slides around now. Not with the same range of adjustment as the Blum but a very good alternative to side mounts. I put some on a shop cabinet and they are working well. Also used a set of push to open side mount slides on my work bench which seem to be very reliable.
There are - you’ll see a couple of pairs in the next and concluding video in this cabinet build - but they’re still twice the price of these side-mounted runners, and not everyone wants under-mount slides. 👍🤷♂️
Hi Dickie. Realise this is an old thread now but re. your undermount push to open slides. Where did they come from for interest? Did you get any front to back adjustment with these? I tried Rejs which Peter was using and there seemed to be a design flaw on the PTO version which meant they adjuster didn't come in contact with runner. No tech advice forthcoming from manufacturer of course!
Ah, so then these are what I've more often heard described as full extension...Cris over at Get Hands Dirty recently installed some double-extension slides in another sense of that phrase (made by bolting together two full-extension slides in series). It was a pretty fun project; also a workshop storage build, but with trapezoidal drawers.
Why do you put the drawer runners at the bottom? I would have thought if you put them in the middle, then you wouldn't have had to worry about the bottom groove and then could have inset the runners a bit farther. I guess I always put the runners in the middle of the drawer and wondered if I'm missing something. Thanks for the video!
Perfect, as I expect from your title as a modern cab maker you are an inspiriation to wannabe cab makers. I pass on your vid to pro handman friend who get the the extendable draw quaestion a lot. . Fansinating and hand tool enthusiasist you start to see how different carpentry is. Also with modern tech like plywood how you need not just new joinery methods like dowles or buscuits, movement in wood and design is significantly different.
Really beautiful work, Pete. I'll be interested to know if, down the road, those "scalloped" drawer fronts allow much sawdust to accumulate in the drawers. They surely do in MY shop!
Great to see this is possible with side mounting but highlights why under side suit this application better possibly….. I will interested in your opinion on the doweller once the series has finished. I am now a domino’s owner but I always thought that the Triton should work. So does it now 🤔
Very slick and neat as always Peter, can I ask, is there a reason why you didn't rebate and mount the slides higher up the drawer box and thus avoiding the clash with the groove for the base ?
The low rebate just makes it easy to locate the runner by referencing off an edge. If you put it halfway up the drawer box, you’d have to measure it for position or use a gauge of some kind. I like it simple. 🤷♂️👍
Hi, I love your videos you are a real inspiration. Where are you getting ply from these days - yours looks much better than the stuff I get. Regards Jim
Fantastic video, as always - no surprises there. But I did have one surprise... I've often wanted to build drawers in this way with the front panel wider than the drawer to hide the slides, but conventional wisdom says we "must" have the front panel secured to the sides in a manner that the constant pulling of the drawer will not cause the drawer front to come off in one's hand. I'm certain it's too soon to know if this will happen, but have you picked up some drawer mojo you need to share with the drawer building hordes out here in the frozen tundra?
Ah, I think I was distracted by a phone call during the part where you pinned the dowels. (Just read Bob Wilhelm's comment - thanks, Bill!) And Conventional Wisdom thanks you, Peter. I have always thought glue would be enough on a drawer with metal slides, but your 23 gauge insurance policy makes good sense.
Thanks! It's a little 'belt and braces' and I'm sure the dowels and glue will be fine for a decade or two, but glue fails, and dowels in the fascia like that where they're subject to that axial load, there's always the slight chance they'll fail sooner. 🤷♂️ 👍
Really enjoying this series full of useful information for these strange times. The whole sheet goods market is completely f**ked up Wickes is charging 50p per sheet less for 8x4 18mm Structural Ply than an 8x4 18mm non Structural plywood (what used to be called WPB).
Yes indeed. I thought I got a bargain in Wickes the other day, the part sheet of ply was £1 cheaper than B&Q. But as soon as I made my first cut I realised it was a false economy. ☹
Nice, I want to try and make some drawers under my stairs, maybe a shoe draw etc, along with a large door at the widest part. At the moment I'm boxing in my gas meter and main incoming fuse, adding noggins then plasterboarding. For a laugh I asked a carpenter how much it would cost, to make good and fit drawers he came back to me with a quote of £2200.. needless to say it's a big no from me. So going to see if I can do myself.
Hi Peter - I'm a new subscriber and have enjoyed going back through your video catalogue. I recently purchased a Festool MFT and wondered if you had any recommendations regarding Squares as I need to buy one to ensure the 90 degree angle of the rail. Many thanks, Mike
Hi Mike and thanks for your kind comments. Have to be honest, I find the use of a square on an MFT a little baffling - I've always aligned the fence with a row of holes, and the rail with a column of holes, and it's done! Given how large an MFT top is it's likely to be more accurate than any square, simply by virtue of the size. That said I do like the Benchdogs UK 'precision triangle' as it's large, and can also take a benchdog which makes it good for catching the edge of the rail. link below, use the offer code "10minuteworkshop" at checkout for a 5% discount across the board. Benchdogs precision triangle/square - bit.ly/precisiontriangle
Hi Peter - thanks so much for the response - tbh I hadnt even thought of using the holes !!! Will take a look at the Benchdogs one. Thanks very much and keep up the inspiring work !
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi Peter - thanks so much for the response - tbh I hadnt even thought of using the holes !!! Will take a look at the Benchdogs one. Thanks very much and keep up the inspiring work !
@@10MinuteWorkshop A mullet (when not a tonsorial abomination much favoured by the Australian tradesman) is a fish, once plentiful and easy to catch that had a particular look when caught and stunned.
Love your videos. But I need help with a router bit 20mm for drilling MFT tables. I bought 1 but its not accurate enough, it is a 20mm for groove's, so i have to put painters tape on the dogs so they fit better 😢. Also it doesn't drill that effectively. Where and what are they called.. The router bit for drilling 20mm holes. Thank you
It's a known problem unfortunately; 20mm bits generally don't make 20mm holes with a router because routers aren't that accurate, when you get down to these kind of tolerances. I'm working on a solution for this, but for the MFT tops I've made I used the Festool bit, and had a precision engineer pal grind it down to make a snug fit.
I'm curious about the doweller making 4 holes, but you only put dowels in two. Does the doweller require that you make the holes in pairs, but the spacing wasn't what you wanted? Were you economizing on the number of dowels you used? Just curious.
Interesting that the common conversion of 1/2" imperial is called 12mm whereas it's closer to 13mm. 12.7mm being the actual dimension. I realize that's being picky, but in a realm where precision is relevant that difference compounds quickly. By common reckoning, 48mm should be 2", it's not, 2" is 50.8mm. Maybe 2.8mm doesn't make a difference to those metric enthusiasts, maybe imperial is more precise
Any reason you did not make rebate 20mm from the bottom of the drawer instead of flush with the bottom? Then you would have had enough thickness for the bottom.
you could have raised the slides well above the drawer bottom, keeping the thickness alternating between the two opposite rebates. But I guess that represented more work elsewhere.
Exactly that - a housing joint is more involved to make than a rebate. 👍
ปีที่แล้ว
@@10MinuteWorkshop While that is true, it could be avoided by placing the rebates for the slides on the top end of the drawer. But maybe I am overlooking another problem with this approach. Thanks for the top notch content!
So, you gained 12mm of interior width of those drawers. Too much bother for almost nothing. This reminds me the time when I decided to put my printer into one drawer of my big desk I built last year. The printer width was the distance between the drawer slides, minus 2 mm. So I cut the drawer lateral panels fit the printer and patched them with aluminum strips to keep them together. I was ”inspired” to use 8 mm plywood for the bottom panel, for the simple fact that I could not find 4 0r 6 mm plywood... So, if you hadn't to fit something so tight in those drawers, I wonder why bother to cut that rebate?
![How I Fit Concealed Drawer Slides [video 524]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WkU0G245CqI/mqdefault.jpg)
![How I Fit Concealed Drawer Slides [video 524]](/img/tr.png)
![Cheap or Cheat? I get a nice cabinet for less cash! [video 517]](/img/n.gif)
So many little nuggets of wisdom in this video - had me bashing my forehead saying "why didn't I think of that!". Like the sacrificial fence scraps on the router fence, tape holding in bits instead of wishing I was born with three or more arms. I over thought too many things in the past. Thanks!
I have never thought of using a tracksaw like you did, cutting in the side of a panel to make a deep rabbet. Excellent!
Yeah, I thought that was a great idea too
I always cut drawers boxes 2mm narrow of the actual measured opening required. Use some small 4mm washers behind the drawer runners (if required) to take up any slack. This gives scope for some side to side adjustment and also prevents the risk of runners possibly running tight and therefore not as smooth as they could / should be.
Peter, a trick I learned doing retrofits of side slide. First, I 3D print a handful of shims, usually 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm. Then I cut the box 14mm narrower than the narrowest width of the carcass. Then I install the box with 3 screws loose and front right screw tight. Then I pull the box out, and fit a shim in the resulting gap on the front left. Then I push the box closed and fit shims on both of the back items until it's centered. This technique goes very quickly and allows me to retrofit these boxes in old cabinet carcasses that are tapered and wonky. The shim sizes allow me to go +1mm to +4mm without double stacking shims.
I never thought of pinning the dowels for added security. Great idea. I never fail to learn something from each of your videos, thank you.
Wow. Mistrusting the glue to that extent!
I do hope it is pointless.
@@DavePawson It can also aid in holding the parts close together while the glue dries
The reason the old school joinery method for drawer sides was dovetails, they're strong in that direction. I've had the drawer fronts pull right off of B&Q furniture in the past, it's definitely worth the extra mechanical fixing.
Another tutorial of yours I'll be studying in the coming days Peter - the plywood runners are a great idea! 🙏
Cheers Michael! 👍
Good job on the drawers Peter! Thanks for sharing the video with us!💖👍😎JP
Thanks! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Your very welcome Peter! Have a great weekend!😎
Nice tricks of the trade there Peter I always get schooled from watching you thanks
Thanks! 👍
I liked the pin nailed dowels, as well. I never fail to learn something useful from your videos.
Thank you! 👍
Great video series Peter thanks. Loving the tip of using sacrificial strips on the router fence to get clean grooves, also mounting the runners on the base so you can shim the draw up for clearance. Looking forward to the next in the series.
Hi Peter,
Thank you for this video, you answered a question for me without realising.
Only the other day I was thinking of building an MFT mobile bench, but would need to cut along the lengths of material and was wondering how you would do it.
As the cuts are not going to be in the same place as when you cut at the end😀, I thought of a sacrificial board but didn't know what anybody else would use.
So you've answered it 😀 Thank you
So accurate with your tolerances! Looking forward to my favourite slides, the Blum undermounts. Interested to see if there are fewer steps and if you will use the Blum jigs.
That is a nicely made set of drawers. Perfection achieved and great attention to detail.
Thank you very much! Far from perfect, sadly - as I'll 'fess up to in a future video! 🤦♂️👍
Excited to see the undermount sliders. I'll likely be using them for my kitchen cabinets, when I eventually get around to them.
Coming soon. 👍
I love these drawer slides I use use them every day easy to mount and fix beautiful
great video ..but i learned something astounding this week.
i used the same runners too. And if you screw the runners onto the carcass using the holes in the cut out portions.
They look like a c shape.
the reason being is that you pull the lugs out ..just a little bit and .
Then attach the runners and as you then push the drawer back in the lugs pull out and self adjust to centre the drawers...but don't use the fixed screw holes or you wont get any side to side adjustment..
it blew my mind that one. Hope it helps.
Yes - only helps with drawer boxes that are a little undersized of course, and I'd always recommend that folks get the measurements right, rather than rely on prising the runners out, or using washers. 👍
Really nice work, Peter! 😃
Thanks for all the tips! Pinning the dowels is a great idea!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too! 👍
another learning experience.... always rewarding
Peter, this is a great topic and I enjoyed your take. Two thoughts for my experience with these types of slides: These are a copy of the original Accuride slides, and they feature “breather tabs” on the cabinet members that do allow for a slightly undersized, but never oversized drawer, so I always opt for a mm or two on each side. The screw into the side should be positioned in the end of the tabs that are seen on the camera side of the slide around 2:16. I really like your approach to rebating the slides into your think slides. The screws designed for this slide were originally sled here isn’t he USA as “Accuride screws” and are very shallow panhead screws, almost boarding on trussheads. They allow the slide members to slide past one another without risk of impact, which can happen with flathead (aka countersunk) screws. I’m gonna take my hardware nerd hat off now! Scott
Thanks Scott! In my experience 3.5mm countersunk screwheads are OK but 4mm can bind, though it does depend on the brand of screw. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for the clarification, Peter.
Hi Peter, I have watched and very much enjoyed your videos for quite a few years now and clearly they are world class. I stumbled across an interesting measurement tool and would be super interested to see you carry out a review of this system. From the few (American) reviews I have watched the capability of the tool is quite remarkable and when cutting a bulk of materials could save time and assure consistent accuracy which I know is very close to your heart. I do not have any commercial connection to this company, but genuinely thought would make a very interesting subject of review by yourself. Kind regards and thanks so much for producing brilliant videos.
REEKON M1 Caliber Measuring Tool - available of UK Amazon.
Thanks Lester - I’ll take a look and see if it’s something with a broad enough appeal. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you Peter. This tool will now work hand in hand with a new product that was launched a few days ago called T1 Tomahawk Digital Tape Measure. This device might turn tape measures on their head. I personally believe, if they work as stated, these products working together could drive real benefit into woodworking. I would love to witness your opinion.
All the best, Lester Pulsford.
I used a pair of these runners recently for a large under stair shoe drawer that I built. They are very good and can hold a hell of a lot of weight (45kg the ones I used!), the lack of side to side adjustment is a downside though. I had to shim mine out slightly as the frame under the stairs was slightly out of square despite my best efforts.
It doesn't need side to side adjustment. I think I have these same slides. It wasn't really mentioned in this video but it is in the instructions, the side of the slide that attaches to the cabinet, you screw into the holes in the tabs. That way it bends and flexes inwards if it needs to. Useful as sometimes cabinet walls aren't perfectly parallel to each other, despite our best efforts.
There are some decent 'cheap' under mount slides around now. Not with the same range of adjustment as the Blum but a very good alternative to side mounts. I put some on a shop cabinet and they are working well. Also used a set of push to open side mount slides on my work bench which seem to be very reliable.
There are - you’ll see a couple of pairs in the next and concluding video in this cabinet build - but they’re still twice the price of these side-mounted runners, and not everyone wants under-mount slides. 👍🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop agreed but side mounts rack terribly in wider drawers.
As ever look forward to you next video.
Hi Dickie. Realise this is an old thread now but re. your undermount push to open slides. Where did they come from for interest? Did you get any front to back adjustment with these? I tried Rejs which Peter was using and there seemed to be a design flaw on the PTO version which meant they adjuster didn't come in contact with runner. No tech advice forthcoming from manufacturer of course!
Ah, so then these are what I've more often heard described as full extension...Cris over at Get Hands Dirty recently installed some double-extension slides in another sense of that phrase (made by bolting together two full-extension slides in series). It was a pretty fun project; also a workshop storage build, but with trapezoidal drawers.
Why do you put the drawer runners at the bottom? I would have thought if you put them in the middle, then you wouldn't have had to worry about the bottom groove and then could have inset the runners a bit farther. I guess I always put the runners in the middle of the drawer and wondered if I'm missing something. Thanks for the video!
Easier to cut a rebate than a housing. Easier to set the drawer height when you know the runners are flush with the base of the drawer. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I see. Makes sense. There's a pro tip there. Thanks
Another quality video Pete 👍
Cheers Dan! 👍
Perfect, as I expect from your title as a modern cab maker you are an inspiriation to wannabe cab makers. I pass on your vid to pro handman friend who get the the extendable draw quaestion a lot.
. Fansinating and hand tool enthusiasist you start to see how different carpentry is.
Also with modern tech like plywood how you need not just new joinery methods like dowles or buscuits, movement in wood and design is significantly different.
Really beautiful work, Pete. I'll be interested to know if, down the road, those "scalloped" drawer fronts allow much sawdust to accumulate in the drawers. They surely do in MY shop!
Thank you! I have those scooped drawer cut-outs on all my drawers, and that hasn't been i an issue for me; maybe you need better dust collection! 😂 👍
Great to see this is possible with side mounting but highlights why under side suit this application better possibly…..
I will interested in your opinion on the doweller once the series has finished. I am now a domino’s owner but I always thought that the Triton should work. So does it now 🤔
Thanks! Yes, next set of drawers will be with under mount runners. 👍
Very slick and neat as always Peter, can I ask, is there a reason why you didn't rebate and mount the slides higher up the drawer box and thus avoiding the clash with the groove for the base ?
The low rebate just makes it easy to locate the runner by referencing off an edge. If you put it halfway up the drawer box, you’d have to measure it for position or use a gauge of some kind. I like it simple. 🤷♂️👍
Hi, I love your videos you are a real inspiration. Where are you getting ply from these days - yours looks much better than the stuff I get. Regards Jim
Thanks! I buy from a local yard - ajferguson.co.uk - who are excellent. It's not cheap these days though! 🤷♂️
Many thanks. I’ll have a look at their website.
Fantastic video, as always - no surprises there. But I did have one surprise... I've often wanted to build drawers in this way with the front panel wider than the drawer to hide the slides, but conventional wisdom says we "must" have the front panel secured to the sides in a manner that the constant pulling of the drawer will not cause the drawer front to come off in one's hand. I'm certain it's too soon to know if this will happen, but have you picked up some drawer mojo you need to share with the drawer building hordes out here in the frozen tundra?
Ah, I think I was distracted by a phone call during the part where you pinned the dowels. (Just read Bob Wilhelm's comment - thanks, Bill!) And Conventional Wisdom thanks you, Peter. I have always thought glue would be enough on a drawer with metal slides, but your 23 gauge insurance policy makes good sense.
Thanks! It's a little 'belt and braces' and I'm sure the dowels and glue will be fine for a decade or two, but glue fails, and dowels in the fascia like that where they're subject to that axial load, there's always the slight chance they'll fail sooner. 🤷♂️ 👍
Really enjoying this series full of useful information for these strange times.
The whole sheet goods market is completely f**ked up Wickes is charging 50p per sheet less for 8x4 18mm Structural Ply than an 8x4 18mm non Structural plywood (what used to be called WPB).
Yes indeed. I thought I got a bargain in Wickes the other day, the part sheet of ply was £1 cheaper than B&Q. But as soon as I made my first cut I realised it was a false economy. ☹
Nice, I want to try and make some drawers under my stairs, maybe a shoe draw etc, along with a large door at the widest part.
At the moment I'm boxing in my gas meter and main incoming fuse, adding noggins then plasterboarding.
For a laugh I asked a carpenter how much it would cost, to make good and fit drawers he came back to me with a quote of £2200.. needless to say it's a big no from me.
So going to see if I can do myself.
Well done.
Great video as always. Very informative. What are your thoughts on the Triton dowel thingy me jig.
Thanks! I'll be getting to the Triton in due course, but bottom line is that it's much better than it was, but still room for improvement. 🤷♂️ 👍
Hi Peter - I'm a new subscriber and have enjoyed going back through your video catalogue. I recently purchased a Festool MFT and wondered if you had any recommendations regarding Squares as I need to buy one to ensure the 90 degree angle of the rail. Many thanks, Mike
Hi Mike and thanks for your kind comments. Have to be honest, I find the use of a square on an MFT a little baffling - I've always aligned the fence with a row of holes, and the rail with a column of holes, and it's done! Given how large an MFT top is it's likely to be more accurate than any square, simply by virtue of the size. That said I do like the Benchdogs UK 'precision triangle' as it's large, and can also take a benchdog which makes it good for catching the edge of the rail. link below, use the offer code "10minuteworkshop" at checkout for a 5% discount across the board.
Benchdogs precision triangle/square - bit.ly/precisiontriangle
Hi Peter - thanks so much for the response - tbh I hadnt even thought of using the holes !!! Will take a look at the Benchdogs one. Thanks very much and keep up the inspiring work !
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi Peter - thanks so much for the response - tbh I hadnt even thought of using the holes !!! Will take a look at the Benchdogs one. Thanks very much and keep up the inspiring work !
What's your opinion of the Triton Doweler Peter? I've only ever seen scathing rviews but it does look like you didn't have issues with it here.
I have a longer term review coming soon, but bottom line is that it’s better than it was, but still room for improvement. 🤷♂️
With regard to the thumbnail, does the Oz saying about a "stunned mullet" translate?
Nope, sorry. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop A mullet (when not a tonsorial abomination much favoured by the Australian tradesman) is a fish, once plentiful and easy to catch that had a particular look when caught and stunned.
Love your videos.
But I need help with a router bit 20mm for drilling MFT tables.
I bought 1 but its not accurate enough, it is a 20mm for groove's, so i have to put painters tape on the dogs so they fit better 😢. Also it doesn't drill that effectively.
Where and what are they called.. The router bit for drilling 20mm holes.
Thank you
It's a known problem unfortunately; 20mm bits generally don't make 20mm holes with a router because routers aren't that accurate, when you get down to these kind of tolerances. I'm working on a solution for this, but for the MFT tops I've made I used the Festool bit, and had a precision engineer pal grind it down to make a snug fit.
@@10MinuteWorkshop ohh my god.
Thank you, appreciate it.
I'm curious about the doweller making 4 holes, but you only put dowels in two. Does the doweller require that you make the holes in pairs, but the spacing wasn't what you wanted? Were you economizing on the number of dowels you used? Just curious.
Basically yes. It’s a duo-doweller, so always 2 holes, but I decided that the drawers didn’t warrant 4 dowels. 👍
Excellent!
Interesting that the common conversion of 1/2" imperial is called 12mm whereas it's closer to 13mm. 12.7mm being the actual dimension. I realize that's being picky, but in a realm where precision is relevant that difference compounds quickly. By common reckoning, 48mm should be 2", it's not, 2" is 50.8mm. Maybe 2.8mm doesn't make a difference to those metric enthusiasts, maybe imperial is more precise
Does the duodoweller work now? I bought one and subsequently sent it back as it was crap
I bought and returned three, back when they were a new thing. They’re better now, though still room for improvement. Full review out soon. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter 👍
You may have previously said but what make tape measure are you using ?
Links in the description, as ever. Browse the full list for this video here - amzn.to/3lpwSWH
Visit my Amazon store here - 10MinuteAmazon.com 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you,I should have read the description before messaging 🤔
Any reason you did not make rebate 20mm from the bottom of the drawer instead of flush with the bottom? Then you would have had enough thickness for the bottom.
Easier to make (rebate vs a housing) but yes, that would be a way to solve the thickness issue. 👍
you could have raised the slides well above the drawer bottom, keeping the thickness alternating between the two opposite rebates.
But I guess that represented more work elsewhere.
Exactly that - a housing joint is more involved to make than a rebate. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop While that is true, it could be avoided by placing the rebates for the slides on the top end of the drawer. But maybe I am overlooking another problem with this approach.
Thanks for the top notch content!
👍
So, you gained 12mm of interior width of those drawers. Too much bother for almost nothing. This reminds me the time when I decided to put my printer into one drawer of my big desk I built last year. The printer width was the distance between the drawer slides, minus 2 mm. So I cut the drawer lateral panels fit the printer and patched them with aluminum strips to keep them together. I was ”inspired” to use 8 mm plywood for the bottom panel, for the simple fact that I could not find 4 0r 6 mm plywood... So, if you hadn't to fit something so tight in those drawers, I wonder why bother to cut that rebate?
*you* don’t have to. 🤷♂️