Stopping water hammer (aka pulsation, cycling) in demand-delivery pump between reverse osmosis water filter and refrigerator. Also, increasing water pressure to fridge for ice maker and water dispenser.
This 76 yr old vet is about to install the RO system for my family, wife, mother-in-law and 3 children, loved your presentation, , like in the Navy you would get a big "E" for excellence!! Thanks again
I used this as the guide for installing my RO system into our new LG 30 cubic foot fridge with an ice maker, 2nd craft ice maker, and chilled RO water through the door last weekend. I called Aquatec and spoke with them about my particular setup. My install required running a line up 8 ’ up in the wall into the attic ceiling, across the kitchen, down the in the wall on the other side with extra loop to be able to pull the fridge out. The total distance is approximately 40’. I am on city water but was concerned with providing appropriate flow to the fridge. They recommended 3/8” line, their 5851-7E12-J574 .7 GPM delivery/demand pump. I also purchased and installed the same second iSpring tank after the demand/flow pump teeing into the output of the RO unit. After waiting 24 hours for the second tank to fill and turning on the pump - It works like a dream. No water hammer, it’s quiet and the pump only runs for short periods when the pressure drops below 40psi and cuts off when it hits 60psi. The pressure valve comes with and is built into the top of the pump. Hardest part of the job was installing a GFCI outlet under the sink and running the 3/8” line. Thanks for this guide it surely saved me DAYS of troubleshooting!!
This is what I am planning. That is same pump I am looking at and was wondering about 3/8” line for that 40’ run. Has this continued to work well? All the best from north Texas.
@@brentjohnson6654 Funny you are asking about this today. The system worked flawlessly for three years, however just this week the pump suddenly became loud and quit pressuring the tank connected to the spigot at the sink. I have not noticed any reduction in the quantity of ice production, but did order a new replacement pump and plan to install it this weekend.
Thank you for posting this video. I was about to go down the same frustrating path of trial and error. You likely saved me hundreds of dollars in time/gas/sanity. Very much appreciated!
Awesome setup 👍 also ensure your refrigerator filter is removed and replaced with the appropriate bypass. This made a massive difference in the flow of water in my system.
Dan! Thanks for the tips! Good grief man, I been fighting this icemaker/ RO pressure thing for YEARS now!! no one could give me an answer, UNTIL YOU JUST DID!!! another tank with a pump to increase the pressure to the icemaker. My problem was, the water utility has low pressure to start with, around 55psi, then the RO system was decreasing it a bit more, which as you said, was just enough to cause freezing when the RO tank was low. THANK YOU SIR!
Amazing video. We all know how frustrating projects like this can be when you have to try multiple solutions. Thank you endlessly for sharing your findings with us. You’ve likely saved me a lot of anger when our new fridge arrives lol. Also finding comprehensive in depth videos that fully explain everything like this are a godsend
Dan, you did a great job with the video and explanation. I am in the process of building a new home and was planning for all the things you went over including the use of an accumulator pump based my experience in a previous home. Your video helped me modify my plan to use an RO tank in the place of the accumulator tank. I'm glad I ran across your video. Again, you covered all the key points very well. Thanks for taking the time to post this.
Thank you. You saved me lots of frustration. Works like a charm. I used a booster pump as well as the delivery pump and an additional tank on the product side. Couldn’t be more pleased with how it turned out.
Awesome video and explanation. I am going down this very rabbit hole right now, having recently plumbed in an RO system to our refrigerator, I'm fighting low flow and ice maker problems just as you pointed out. I'll be addressing mine as you've done to yours very soon. Thank you.
DAN your explanation of the water hammer and low pressure out of the system at certain times solved my issues. Instead of an instant on DDP I got the CDP and pushed 100psi thru my RO FILTER system until the pressure reaches 60psi and then the pump shuts off. with an additional RO automatic switch that I bought. The pump then stays off till the pressure drops below 40psi through use, and then it fires up again to replenish the system back to 60PSI. When full at the right pressure, I also added another system switch to shut the water supply so its not running constantly creating hours of wastewater in between uses. Without your video (This is clearly not what you built here) and your explanations of what was going on I would not have been able to figure it all out. just wanted to stop by and say thanks for posting the video!
To the commentor that asked if you could use the tank only without the pump, I'm curious what you found out. We live in a townhouse with RO to the fridge 8 feet away that results in relatively low pressure, but we're building a new house and have plumbed a single RO system in the basement with outlets at 1) kitchen sink, 2) fridge/icemaker, and 3) master bathroom. Plumber installed 1/2" pex with 1/4" outlet valves at each location. I know there won't be enough pressure for the whole system from only one tank, so your video has been very informative. Now I know I have options. Great job, thank you for taking the time to share your findings!
How did this work out? I’m also planning a new build, wondering if using a 20 gallon tank would provide the pressure for long line runs. (My understanding is the bigger the tank, the more pressure reserve is available to push water through the lines.)
Thanks for posting this. You convinced me not to try and connect an RO system to by fridge until they've created systems exactly for this purpose. There are just too many things that could go wrong with this complicated configuration. I hope it works for you.
Dan thanks for the video! On a side note get rid of that galvanized pipe plumbed into your water heater. I have two water heaters and they had galvanized and they will eventually rust out and cause a leak. The rust also can get so bad it will restrict flow. Just sharing
That's a lot of research sounds so frustrating. I was going to connect my water filter to my ice maker but I'll just do it as normal. Thanks for you videoo.video.. Cheers 🍻 🍻
This is the exact problem that I'm trying to solve. I've an I-spring system and the fridge is on the opposite side of the kitchen sink and I'm not getting enough pressure. Thank you for sharing this.
Auquatec has updated the description for this pump to say: “Description the cut off pressure on the pump is set at 60 psi at the factory, but this pressure can be adjusted using an Allen key. On the pump head there is a hex screw, you can use the Allen key to turn clockwise to increase pressure. 1/2 turns is +10 psi the inlet and outlet are 3/8" JG quick connect fitting. It is for 3/8" Outside diameter tubing. This pump is for water transfer of 1 to 1.7 gallon per minute applications, this is not for refrigerator line. For residential refrigerator or residential ice maker, use different model like 5851 0.7 gpm and add an Aquatec accumulator tank / pulsation dampener model ACT820-JG”
Wow! This is the video I have been looking for. I am going to install a ispring RO system at the sink and want to feed the ice maker in the fridge on far side of the room. I talked with ispring today and they gave me the aquatec idea and possibly a second pressure tank. Maybe I was talking to your guy who helped. His name is John. In any case I am putting the RO system on the side of the sink cabinet in what used to be a hidden corner. I want to have the filters on a pullout panel to maintain the filters. Also I was wondering about pulling a 3/8” or 1/2” PEX through the attic since I don’t have access below the floor. Thanks again for your video. It has confirmed some things for me. All the best from north Texas.
The thing that you talking about the size of the pump is the accumulator tank if i am not mistaken? Btw thanks for making topics on that pump cycling problem :)
I have the exact setup you have the pump is great but it hammers. I was thinking why not move the tank to the other side of the pump let the RO fill the tank through the pump. That doesn't work because now the pump is sucking from the RO system no pressure against it. The only way is two tanks thanks for letting me know about that small dampener tank they sell causes the taste to be bad. Larger feed line to the kitchen doesn't make any difference I have 1/2" Pex line still hammers.
Great video. Thank you! Did you run the 3/8” line all the way to the fridge? If you did, how did you connect it there? Did you have to skinny down to 1/4”?
You kept the line to the frig at 3/8" - didn't you need a 3/8 - 1/4 reducer at the fridge? If so, didn't that keep the flow and pressure as if you kept the line at 1/4" all the way from the tank?
Hi Dan. Still on the fence as to which PUMP to get. What do you think about a Permeate pump? Hooked through the plumbing, powered by the wastewater, not electricity. Would this be something that would work on a setup close to yours? I want to RO the kitchen, to include a faucet, and the water/ice at the fridge.
Have an ispring 6 stage RO system that came with a pump but given my run length to the sink (room temperature dispenser) after which it tees off to the fridge for both the ice and cold water. Notice variance in the psi likely given length of 1/4" line feeding both. No issues with the ice machine as I'm getting a good 30psi but need to increase that to 40 psi for the fridge. This may help me. A few questions: 1) what is the make/model of the pump you bought? 2) why go from a 1/4" line from the RO system and first tank to a 3/8" line to the fridge? It's possible that's' what your fridge requires. Just curious about the reason for that. Thanks.
Do you think if you replaced your original 3.2 gallon tank with a bigger tank such as a 9.0 gallon, this would have solved the freezer issues without having to run a dump and dampener?
your top 2 filters on the RO system (the ones after the tank connection) are a carbon filter and an remineralizer. Could you install the pump and dampener tank after the T joint but before the last 2 filters so that you dont have 1 tank will fully treated water potentially developing a taist and odder?
Very informative! I'm getting ready to do this RO setup. Just wondering if you could leave out the pump, and just add the second tank, since that has enough water stored under pressure? What are your thoughts Dan?
Without the pump, the pressure will probably get too low when you draw a lot of water at one time. But you could test it first and then add the pump if you need it.
I watched a video where the guy tried 2 pressure tanks, and it didn't increase pressure, it only added capacity, so he had more water available, but the same low pressure.
I used your system design with our well system after purchasing a new refrigerator and it works great. We're leaving town for a few months and was wondering how to drain the tanks. After closing the water inlet valve would you use the 'fridge' and run the pump until you get a trickle, then close the valve on the tank downstream from the pump in order to drain the upper tank that feeds the FT15 filter? Or would you just leave them both open? Thanks again!
Dan, if you removed the pump and only had two tanks, would that remedy the issues without the need for electricity? In your conclusion you said the 2nd tank provides the pressure for your fridge and the pump fills the 2nd tank. Can you remove the pump altogether now?
if your water tasted like fruity plastic or rubbery, this is likely an indication of leachates from your plastics in your system. You need to to flush dampener thoroughly and leave it unused for 14 days after installation, and flush again thoroughly.
so did i understand it correctly that the weird taste and smell came from the pressure tank you bought from iSpring? and once it was replaced your water was perfectly fine?
Can you just install the pressure pump up stream of the entire RO system? That was it will add pressure to the entire system AND you get to use the original 4gal holding/pressure/buffer tank
Did you try this? I don't think you'd want to pump directly from the RO, you'd want to pump from the tank. I'm looking at a similar set up and would like to avoid two tanks as well.
I have the RO under the sink and a 1/4" PEX line running up that wall and down to the fridge on the other side of the kitchen about 15' away. The water pressure is not strong enough to fill up the ice maker tray all the way. I think its on a timer to fill up the tray. We like to use the RO spout on the sink I installed as it provides a lot of water fast. I don't have an attic of basement to hide an extra tank. The ice cubes are small. Do you think a pump will work to get bigger ice cubes?
My pump has a switch that has to be put into the line to shut off pump Where do you put that switch You don’t have a inline switch Where do I put the switch
in this last configuration you don't need the pump, because, like you said, the last tank is pushing the water. That's the problem with these RO systems, the tank is not after the last stage, and for good reason, it is not safe to keep water for days in tank and then drink it.
The approach in the video resolved the problems for me. My second tank psi is set at 30 when empty. All I did was switch out the output line from the pump to 3/8 inch. The pump supports this size in a push connect out of the box. This line goes into a 3/8in to 1/4in converter before going into a 1/4in tee. The tee goes to the second tank and to the fridge, all at their original 1/4in lines.
Looks like Aquatec has updated the product description on Amazon to suggest not using this pump and use a different model. “Description the cut off pressure on the pump is set at 60 psi at the factory, but this pressure can be adjusted using an Allen key. On the pump head there is a hex screw, you can use the Allen key to turn clockwise to increase pressure. 1/2 turns is +10 psi the inlet and outlet are 3/8" JG quick connect fitting. It is for 3/8" Outside diameter tubing. This pump is for water transfer of 1 to 1.7 gallon per minute applications, this is not for refrigerator line. For residential refrigerator or residential ice maker, use different model like 5851 0.7 gpm and add an Aquatec accumulator tank / pulsation dampener model ACT820-JG”
I am in a very same situation just received delivery pump with no instructions.I am at 20 feet away refrigerator.Wondering if better to place delivery pump at end of line last filter 5 for me thats an inline behind refrigerator before hits last filter ? Or is it a must under sink before filter water runs 20 feet to refrig ? .....love the video....100% my issue mostly just running out of water and cubes....line runs 20 feet
I recently did this exact same setup to alleviate low pressure and slow drip on my Samsung fridge. Still have a slow drip from the dispenser but pressure is better. I currently have 1/4” plumbed in anyone have any further advice my old fridge never had a problem, but this is the 4th Samsung delivered and all drip!!
This 76 yr old vet is about to install the RO system for my family, wife, mother-in-law and 3 children, loved your presentation, , like in the
Navy you would get a big "E" for excellence!! Thanks again
This looks like the best video on how to increase RO pressure I've seen so far - thanks for the great video!
I used this as the guide for installing my RO system into our new LG 30 cubic foot fridge with an ice maker, 2nd craft ice maker, and chilled RO water through the door last weekend. I called Aquatec and spoke with them about my particular setup. My install required running a line up 8 ’ up in the wall into the attic ceiling, across the kitchen, down the in the wall on the other side with extra loop to be able to pull the fridge out. The total distance is approximately 40’. I am on city water but was concerned with providing appropriate flow to the fridge. They recommended 3/8” line, their 5851-7E12-J574 .7 GPM delivery/demand pump. I also purchased and installed the same second iSpring tank after the demand/flow pump teeing into the output of the RO unit. After waiting 24 hours for the second tank to fill and turning on the pump - It works like a dream. No water hammer, it’s quiet and the pump only runs for short periods when the pressure drops below 40psi and cuts off when it hits 60psi. The pressure valve comes with and is built into the top of the pump. Hardest part of the job was installing a GFCI outlet under the sink and running the 3/8” line. Thanks for this guide it surely saved me DAYS of troubleshooting!!
Do you have any photos of your setup?
This is what I am planning. That is same pump I am looking at and was wondering about 3/8” line for that 40’ run. Has this continued to work well? All the best from north Texas.
@@brentjohnson6654 Funny you are asking about this today. The system worked flawlessly for three years, however just this week the pump suddenly became loud and quit pressuring the tank connected to the spigot at the sink. I have not noticed any reduction in the quantity of ice production, but did order a new replacement pump and plan to install it this weekend.
@@flippedout haha timing is everything. So the pump in the under sink went bad and not the aquatec?
Thank you for posting this video. I was about to go down the same frustrating path of trial and error. You likely saved me hundreds of dollars in time/gas/sanity. Very much appreciated!
Awesome setup 👍 also ensure your refrigerator filter is removed and replaced with the appropriate bypass. This made a massive difference in the flow of water in my system.
Dan! Thanks for the tips! Good grief man, I been fighting this icemaker/ RO pressure thing for YEARS now!! no one could give me an answer, UNTIL YOU JUST DID!!! another tank with a pump to increase the pressure to the icemaker. My problem was, the water utility has low pressure to start with, around 55psi, then the RO system was decreasing it a bit more, which as you said, was just enough to cause freezing when the RO tank was low. THANK YOU SIR!
Amazing video. We all know how frustrating projects like this can be when you have to try multiple solutions. Thank you endlessly for sharing your findings with us. You’ve likely saved me a lot of anger when our new fridge arrives lol. Also finding comprehensive in depth videos that fully explain everything like this are a godsend
Dan, you did a great job with the video and explanation. I am in the process of building a new home and was planning for all the things you went over including the use of an accumulator pump based my experience in a previous home. Your video helped me modify my plan to use an RO tank in the place of the accumulator tank. I'm glad I ran across your video. Again, you covered all the key points very well. Thanks for taking the time to post this.
Thank you. You saved me lots of frustration. Works like a charm. I used a booster pump as well as the delivery pump and an additional tank on the product side. Couldn’t be more pleased with how it turned out.
Awesome video and explanation. I am going down this very rabbit hole right now, having recently plumbed in an RO system to our refrigerator, I'm fighting low flow and ice maker problems just as you pointed out. I'll be addressing mine as you've done to yours very soon. Thank you.
DAN your explanation of the water hammer and low pressure out of the system at certain times solved my issues. Instead of an instant on DDP I got the CDP and pushed 100psi thru my RO FILTER system until the pressure reaches 60psi and then the pump shuts off. with an additional RO automatic switch that I bought. The pump then stays off till the pressure drops below 40psi through use, and then it fires up again to replenish the system back to 60PSI. When full at the right pressure, I also added another system switch to shut the water supply so its not running constantly creating hours of wastewater in between uses.
Without your video (This is clearly not what you built here) and your explanations of what was going on I would not have been able to figure it all out. just wanted to stop by and say thanks for posting the video!
To the commentor that asked if you could use the tank only without the pump, I'm curious what you found out. We live in a townhouse with RO to the fridge 8 feet away that results in relatively low pressure, but we're building a new house and have plumbed a single RO system in the basement with outlets at 1) kitchen sink, 2) fridge/icemaker, and 3) master bathroom. Plumber installed 1/2" pex with 1/4" outlet valves at each location. I know there won't be enough pressure for the whole system from only one tank, so your video has been very informative. Now I know I have options. Great job, thank you for taking the time to share your findings!
How did this work out? I’m also planning a new build, wondering if using a 20 gallon tank would provide the pressure for long line runs. (My understanding is the bigger the tank, the more pressure reserve is available to push water through the lines.)
Thanks for posting this. You convinced me not to try and connect an RO system to by fridge until they've created systems exactly for this purpose. There are just too many things that could go wrong with this complicated configuration. I hope it works for you.
They make systems with the pump included. Get one you won’t be upset!
@@WildHorsesOfCourse Cool, thanks! Any recommendations?
Thank you big time! Got my pump and second tank on order. Was driving me absolutely crazy.
Dan thanks for the video! On a side note get rid of that galvanized pipe plumbed into your water heater. I have two water heaters and they had galvanized and they will eventually rust out and cause a leak. The rust also can get so bad it will restrict flow. Just sharing
Great video. I was thinking about just adding 2nd tank without the pump.
That's a lot of research sounds so frustrating.
I was going to connect my water filter to my ice maker but I'll just do it as normal. Thanks for you videoo.video.. Cheers 🍻
🍻
This is the exact problem that I'm trying to solve. I've an I-spring system and the fridge is on the opposite side of the kitchen sink and I'm not getting enough pressure. Thank you for sharing this.
Auquatec has updated the description for this pump to say:
“Description
the cut off pressure on the pump is set at 60 psi at the factory, but this pressure can be adjusted using an Allen key. On the pump head there is a hex screw, you can use the Allen key to turn clockwise to increase pressure. 1/2 turns is +10 psi the inlet and outlet are 3/8" JG quick connect fitting. It is for 3/8" Outside diameter tubing. This pump is for water transfer of 1 to 1.7 gallon per minute applications, this is not for refrigerator line. For residential refrigerator or residential ice maker, use different model like 5851 0.7 gpm and add an Aquatec accumulator tank / pulsation dampener model ACT820-JG”
Great information. Thank you
awesome walkthrough of your solutions.
Wow! This is the video I have been looking for. I am going to install a ispring RO system at the sink and want to feed the ice maker in the fridge on far side of the room. I talked with ispring today and they gave me the aquatec idea and possibly a second pressure tank. Maybe I was talking to your guy who helped. His name is John. In any case I am putting the RO system on the side of the sink cabinet in what used to be a hidden corner. I want to have the filters on a pullout panel to maintain the filters. Also I was wondering about pulling a 3/8” or 1/2” PEX through the attic since I don’t have access below the floor. Thanks again for your video. It has confirmed some things for me. All the best from north Texas.
Thanks so much for the information! I’ll definitely be using this in my house
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this information. Well done!
Thanks, hopefully this will solve my problems great video!
The thing that you talking about the size of the pump is the accumulator tank if i am not mistaken? Btw thanks for making topics on that pump cycling problem :)
Wow water is the model number of the pump and tank you added? Great video thank you for sharing.
I have the exact setup you have the pump is great but it hammers. I was thinking why not move the tank to the other side of the pump let the RO fill the tank through the pump. That doesn't work because now the pump is sucking from the RO system no pressure against it. The only way is two tanks thanks for letting me know about that small dampener tank they sell causes the taste to be bad. Larger feed line to the kitchen doesn't make any difference I have 1/2" Pex line still hammers.
Dan, you nailed it with this video. SUPER helpful. Thanks for the clear explanation. Which aquatec model did you go with?
This is excellent! One question I do have is for people installing the RO in the basement. How are you feeding your waste line?
Very useful and informative. Thank you.
Great video. Thank you! Did you run the 3/8” line all the way to the fridge? If you did, how did you connect it there? Did you have to skinny down to 1/4”?
My original line to fridge is 1/4th and I have a converted from 3/8th back to 1/4th before it goes to the fridge and this seems to work.
You kept the line to the frig at 3/8" - didn't you need a 3/8 - 1/4 reducer at the fridge? If so, didn't that keep the flow and pressure as if you kept the line at 1/4" all the way from the tank?
Hi Dan. Still on the fence as to which PUMP to get. What do you think about a Permeate pump? Hooked through the plumbing, powered by the wastewater, not electricity. Would this be something that would work on a setup close to yours?
I want to RO the kitchen, to include a faucet, and the water/ice at the fridge.
Secondly, did you leave the filter OUT of the refrigerator, or must it be installed to function?
Have an ispring 6 stage RO system that came with a pump but given my run length to the sink (room temperature dispenser) after which it tees off to the fridge for both the ice and cold water. Notice variance in the psi likely given length of 1/4" line feeding both. No issues with the ice machine as I'm getting a good 30psi but need to increase that to 40 psi for the fridge. This may help me. A few questions: 1) what is the make/model of the pump you bought? 2) why go from a 1/4" line from the RO system and first tank to a 3/8" line to the fridge? It's possible that's' what your fridge requires. Just curious about the reason for that. Thanks.
Do you think if you replaced your original 3.2 gallon tank with a bigger tank such as a 9.0 gallon, this would have solved the freezer issues without having to run a dump and dampener?
your top 2 filters on the RO system (the ones after the tank connection) are a carbon filter and an remineralizer. Could you install the pump and dampener tank after the T joint but before the last 2 filters so that you dont have 1 tank will fully treated water potentially developing a taist and odder?
Do I need the secondary tank or could I just add the pump and keep the single tank ?
Very informative! I'm getting ready to do this RO setup. Just wondering if you could leave out the pump, and just add the second tank, since that has enough water stored under pressure? What are your thoughts Dan?
Without the pump, the pressure will probably get too low when you draw a lot of water at one time. But you could test it first and then add the pump if you need it.
153Fish. Did this work with out the pump?
I watched a video where the guy tried 2 pressure tanks, and it didn't increase pressure, it only added capacity, so he had more water available, but the same low pressure.
Did this 2nd tank work alone, or did you end up getting the pump?
Great video!
I'm seriously considering installing this exact set up. What was the overall cost?
I used your system design with our well system after purchasing a new refrigerator and it works great. We're leaving town for a few months and was wondering how to drain the tanks. After closing the water inlet valve would you use the 'fridge' and run the pump until you get a trickle, then close the valve on the tank downstream from the pump in order to drain the upper tank that feeds the FT15 filter? Or would you just leave them both open? Thanks again!
@danfink6642 ... is the pump really necessary? would two tanks do the trick possibly without the pump?
Helpful video thanks!
Dan, if you removed the pump and only had two tanks, would that remedy the issues without the need for electricity? In your conclusion you said the 2nd tank provides the pressure for your fridge and the pump fills the 2nd tank.
Can you remove the pump altogether now?
if your water tasted like fruity plastic or rubbery, this is likely an indication of leachates from your plastics in your system. You need to to flush dampener thoroughly and leave it unused for 14 days after installation, and flush again thoroughly.
If the pressure now comes from the new tank instead of the pump, how is that providing enough/more psi?
So you installed you tanks instead of one wish the water pressure? And this solved the issue of water capacity?
Wondering if I need a pump if it's like 2 feet away
Just for the ice maker?
Great video thanks
so did i understand it correctly that the weird taste and smell came from the pressure tank you bought from iSpring? and once it was replaced your water was perfectly fine?
Can you just install the pressure pump up stream of the entire RO system? That was it will add pressure to the entire system AND you get to use the original 4gal holding/pressure/buffer tank
Curious, why not just put the DDP pump before the 1st tank in the system. Would this also fix the problem? Im trying to avoid needing two tanks.
Did you try this? I don't think you'd want to pump directly from the RO, you'd want to pump from the tank. I'm looking at a similar set up and would like to avoid two tanks as well.
Thanks for sharing!
Can u post the info where I can purchase all the component's?
What pump did you use and where did you get all those adapters? Thank you!
doing an annual bleach cycle with the second tank will be a pain
I have the RO under the sink and a 1/4" PEX line running up that wall and down to the fridge on the other side of the kitchen about 15' away. The water pressure is not strong enough to fill up the ice maker tray all the way. I think its on a timer to fill up the tray. We like to use the RO spout on the sink I installed as it provides a lot of water fast. I don't have an attic of basement to hide an extra tank. The ice cubes are small. Do you think a pump will work to get bigger ice cubes?
Do you think the pump is needed if you used just 2 large tanks?
Thank you 👍
What is the fitting coming from the blue line (ro system) to the pump? Is that a 1/4 to 3/8 elbow?
You have a link for the pump and extra tank thanks for video ✌️🇨🇦
So… this would have been alleviated by shortening the line or installing the RO closer to the fridge.
My pump has a switch that has to be put into the line to shut off pump Where do you put that switch You don’t have a inline switch Where do I put the switch
Thats a large system for a ice maker
Did you try without pump? Just run the second tank.
Looking to do something similar. Where does the waste water go?
Do you know about how many psi you are pumping into your second tank?
30 (when empty) seems to work for me
Whats the model number of your booster pump ??? Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I have the same issue. It seems like you don’t need that aquatec pump if the second ispring tank is feeding the freezer
My nigga!!! Thank you!
in this last configuration you don't need the pump, because, like you said, the last tank is pushing the water. That's the problem with these RO systems, the tank is not after the last stage, and for good reason, it is not safe to keep water for days in tank and then drink it.
How is the high pressure switch connected?
Did you modify the pressure in the second tank at all?
The approach in the video resolved the problems for me. My second tank psi is set at 30 when empty. All I did was switch out the output line from the pump to 3/8 inch. The pump supports this size in a push connect out of the box.
This line goes into a 3/8in to 1/4in converter before going into a 1/4in tee. The tee goes to the second tank and to the fridge, all at their original 1/4in lines.
Thank you for your great video. I would like to buy the same pump that you have. Could you give me the model number, please?
Pump model # is 5851-7E12-J574.
Looks like Aquatec has updated the product description on Amazon to suggest not using this pump and use a different model.
“Description
the cut off pressure on the pump is set at 60 psi at the factory, but this pressure can be adjusted using an Allen key. On the pump head there is a hex screw, you can use the Allen key to turn clockwise to increase pressure. 1/2 turns is +10 psi the inlet and outlet are 3/8" JG quick connect fitting. It is for 3/8" Outside diameter tubing. This pump is for water transfer of 1 to 1.7 gallon per minute applications, this is not for refrigerator line. For residential refrigerator or residential ice maker, use different model like 5851 0.7 gpm and add an Aquatec accumulator tank / pulsation dampener model ACT820-JG”
I am in a very same situation just received delivery pump with no instructions.I am at 20 feet away refrigerator.Wondering if better to place delivery pump at end of line last filter 5 for me thats an inline behind refrigerator before hits last filter ? Or is it a must under sink before filter water runs 20 feet to refrig ? .....love the video....100% my issue mostly just running out of water and cubes....line runs 20 feet
Get rid of that saddle valve and get a proper T even if its a sharkbite.
I recently did this exact same setup to alleviate low pressure and slow drip on my Samsung fridge. Still have a slow drip from the dispenser but pressure is better. I currently have 1/4” plumbed in anyone have any further advice my old fridge never had a problem, but this is the 4th Samsung delivered and all drip!!
Try removing the factory original water filter in the refrigerator, you may have to bypass it entirely to do this and still get water.
I just got done walking down to the creek and drinking water directly from the "moving part of the water." I didn't see any filters.
CAN I PLACE DELIVERY PUMP AFTER THE WATTS 4 FILTERS RO BUT BEFORE THE 5TH FILTER THAT IS INLINE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATER ?
Could you just split the output filtered water line into two tanks without having to buy a pump?
Or is the pump needed on the fridge water line?
Did your Ispring RO system come with a built in pump.