Yo! great video. I'm a new boat owner and I'm a tinkerer. I know my way around maintenance items, but I've never owned a boat. My friend that is a boat guy said one of the best things to do when you get a used boat is change the impeller ASAP, so that what I'll be doing soon. Thanks for the warnings too!
Enjoy how you explain all of your repair work. You think of the little things that make the assemblies go back together easier. Thanks for your time and effort
My impeller on my 1979 200 Hp evinrude was 20+ years old and looked just like yours. I have a 15 HP Honda that the impeller crapped out on me around the 20 year mark so got me thinking about changing the one on my 200 Hp. Better to be safe than sorry. Thanks for the video
Good info, but as I was watching you put the housing back on, I saw your special shaped o-ring for the bottom of the housing spinning around on the impeller, if you had glued it and the inner o-ring at the 4 tabs like the directions tell you too, you wouldnt have had it dropped down, it has a special shape to fit housing, hope you fixed that before tightening the 4 bolts, hope this saves somebody else from "greasing" the o-ring, use adhesive like the directions say.
I was thinking the same thing. That's why I purchase OEM. They come with step by step instructions. I don't think after market parts have them. I would suggest to any DIYer to purchase a factory manual for your specific motor before attempting any repairs. These things are too expensive to half ass any repair.
Nice video. Had to have my impeller replaced 2 years ago after 28 years of use, 1994 50hp Evinrude. I had no idea this should be replaced yearly until the marine shop mentioned it. Since this is the second year on the new one, I checked out your video to see if I can do this myself. Darn, doesn't look like it is a one person job. Appreciate the info.
Thanks, I've heard guys say 1 year-3 years. It just depends on how much you use the boat and how much it sits. It's not hard to do. It's best with 2 people though.
you can use a ratchet strap to hold the lower unit up while removing the bolts, id say 50% of lower units are destroyed because people don't know about the bolt under the trim tab
another quick tech tip, take a sharpie and mark the shift shaft so you can see if it turned while putting the lower unit back up,, make an upside down T on the side of the shift rod just above the rubber seal ring so you can look in and see if it went down or turned as its lifted into place, the upper end of the shift rod is curved forward and wont allow the unit to raise into position if it turns.
That large o' ring around the plastic housing, it's best to lightly super glue it in the housing groove. It appears that in your video it was hanging down around the impeller and not seated in the housing groove properly as you were mounting it. People use grease to hold it in place, but I found out that the best is light dabs of super glue to keep it in place.
Glad I found your vid dude. Done several water pump rebuilds but was having hell with the Impeller Shaft key on my 84 Johnson GT 150. The instructions I was working off of were blurry and poor🤣 got it put right together after watching. I usually get a solid 3-4 years out of my impellers. Always good to change them when they look like yours in the video for sure!
Matt, love the video. I have a 1986 40hp Evinrude that I bought used in 2014 and it still has a strong discharge stream. I don't know how long they last but we will see.
Cool video thanks. Btw, that small screw you said would release things inside the lower gear, is NOT what that is. I know from experience, that is a retaining screw you remove to release-replace that white plastic water screen that is just inside the water intake gills. I think it's important or they wouldn't have put it there. So I replaced my damaged one on my 1980 Evinrude v4 crossflow 140hp. Look on both sides to see if it's white plastic holes are age damaged. If original, it’s probably pretty damaged. If damage, just order a new one so you can access and replace next time you drop your lower unit, like when doing water pump. With lower unit removed: Remove the set screw, find the top of the deep cast cavity the one peice plastic screen cage is down inside. Use long pliers to grab and pull out the old one. If stubborn to come up, wiggle and wd40 as needed. Install the new one all the way back down. Reinstall its exterior retaining screw. Done.
nice video should gearcase be in reverse from the start?I'll plan to securely tape the shift rod bolt to the sockect extension. got a link to the aviation gasket/sealant? thanks for tip on the screw next to screen. you make this job look easy.your lucky you have your Daddy helping.
7 months late, but great video! needed to change mine out. The first step with that “special bolt” I had to really try to find it because in the video you didn’t point out where it was just showed a general location. other than that awesome 👏
I have a 76 Johnson 115 that looks very close, super helpful video thank you. I ran my boat on land with muffs on for about 1min but didn't see water coming out of water exhaust port or prop. Does this mean my impeller is likely toast?
Hello Matt Thanks for your reply regarding öocation of upper pin. I have had headace regarding this impellerchange. Shaft was very stuck and this model does not have a pin. Anyway, engine ok now, boat in the water. Michael
Hey love your content thanks for all the help especially because your working on a big outboard evinrude its so hard to find videos so you have been a lifesaver. Thank you would you mind doing a video on that 150 evinrude outboard showing how to correctly set the timing and possibly how to get it to where it runs smoothly from idle to full throttle ? i been having trouble with mine as when i go to full throttle seems like it just keeps going higher in rpms. Thanks
Please don't mess with the timing screw. It's the easiest way to destroy an outboard if you don't know what you're doing. I'd by a service manual and follow the procedure on how to "Link and Sync" your outboard. All 3 carburetor butterflies and the throttle cable have to be perfectly synced.
Hey Matt off topic but I couldn't find one of your channel with it. Do you know how to remove that plastic skirt under the lower pan that covers the pan to the mid shaft? I can get the two bolts off the side but it still feels like it's bolted some where
Great video!! So besides the housing bolts did you coat the gasket and ware plate with the gasket sealant or only the bolts? One of the other videos it shows them coating then the other video used no sealant at all just grease around the oring of the housing
I have the impeller put on on idol is not squirting water unless if you open the throttle hard twice it does not have the thermostat so it should come out right away right
hey man! i’m doing mine for the first time! i have an 86 evinrude 65. i have extra o rings. can you let me know if an o right goes under wear plate or above? one goes in cup? then one goes in groove on the top of my shaft? i don’t know where they go because mine were missing i guess or deteriorated away. thanks man!
If you look at the diagram on www.boats.net there's an O-Ring that goes at the very top of the lower unit shaft. Probably not what you are talking about though. They are all a little different. You have to make sure you put them in the right place so it seals well.
Nice video brother, could you help me how to get the shift rod back in position as I can't see on your video, do you think if the shift rod connected properly to the pin no problem lock into gear ?
Great video, very informative. What torque specs did you use for the water pump housing bolts, and also the external bolts that hold the lower unit in place? Ordering everything today to do this same job! 1994 Johnson 175 Fast Strike! Thanks!
You just have to play with the gasket to get it in its groove. The shift shaft is easy, length top of gear case to center of hole in the shaft. Measurements are in the book I showed. Play with it until it goes back up into the power head.
That cause he sucks and doesn't show the struggle I rebuilt this whole motor new power head water. Baffles carbs never the water pump it's easy thou. Transom check my page
Worked on my water pump too and my drive shaft slipped out the gearcase. Now it won't seat. Leaving me a half in gap from the gearcase. I've tried spinning the prop still nonluck.
Great guide Matt! I tried to follow the steps, but I rotated my shift rod before stumbling across this video... My motor is a 1983 Evinrude 235 E235TRLCTD. I bought a CLYMER manual and it says for long model (~22in) V6 1979-1984, the shift rod height in neutral should be 21 1/6th in. I tried to measure from gearcase to offset hole, but I've found that the shift rod cannot be lowered enough to match 21 1/16th. Maybe my manual is wrong, do you have any info for what the shift rod height should be for a 1983 Evinrude 235 E235TRLCTD? I literally can't find any info because the info in my manual doesn't work...!
Hey, silly question. Are you measuring from the top of the gear case to the center of the shift rod hole in neutral? I don't know what the shift rod height is supposed to be for that model. I'd search on forums or buy an OEM Evinrude service manual off of eBay for cheap. They are insanely better than CLYMER manuals.
Hey Yall! New impellers and parts in the description! Shift shaft bolt removal: th-cam.com/video/-H6FDkyKifk/w-d-xo.html (Forgot in this video!) As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
For the life of me, I cant seem to find which bolt I need to remove from the shift linkage. This is my first big outboard and man, the smaller ones are much easier lol.
@@MattsShop finally found it on mine. The pin was on the starboard side between the shifter and the power head. Was super easy to get to and disconnect. Was just super hard to see if you dont know where to look.
You don't need to remove any bolts. There's a pin on the right side, you pull the pin and tap that little shaft in and it will release the shift link. I have no idea why everyone is removing the bolt?
How can you tell if the motor has a crack in it? I'm getting ready to buy a Evinrude 50cc he says it just needs the bottom impeller? So any suggestions on what to look for when I go to look at it to purchase?? 😊
Ive got a 150 Ev 1997 .....never changed plugs or pump or anything . So after 23 years the fuel pump started getting a little weak on high throttle . 10 dollar low pressure pump off ebay fixed that
As long as you never started out water I've got them the last five to six years.now I change them every two years cuz they're not as strong as I used to be
Hey, the grease is just any grease to help the rubber impeller slide together and the "glue" is called Permatex Aviation Gasket maker. It just helps seal things up.
I broke the head off the steering screw thats under the starter. Dang it. Well I'm see how long this impeller.will last on my 73 johnson 50horse. I didn't even get past step 1. Well it happens. Glory to the Lord Jesus forever!
The very top BIG screw on the lower unit is the oil max level vent to change the lower unit oil. Don't touch the small screw in the middle of the lower unit.
@Jason Janicki HERE: th-cam.com/users/shorts-H6FDkyKifk?feature=share That's for the shift rod linkage. It is what allows the lower unit to shift gears.
A very long 1/4" extension, swivel, and I believe it's a 3/8" or 10mm socket. The bolt is stainless so it's not magnetic. If you drop the bolt you have to fish it out with needle nose pliers. Maybe stuff a rag down there.
OK, so what happened? When you put the impeller into the housing, you put some kinda wire or something around the vanes... it wouldn't go on, then EDIT! it's magically on. What happened? I only ask 'cause it looks like a real pain in the a$$, and if I tried to do it, it wouldn't work. Thanks.
You got good eyes. It was a pain to get the base O-ring to stay in its groove in the plastic housing. I put the impeller on, then put the metal cup on, and then dropped the plastic housing over that. It's not that hard, just make sure you twist the new impeller to match the old one. Make sure the O-rings don't fall out.
@@MattsShop ya I have a Glastron Carlson 16’ with the 110 Johnson still was peeing good last year. Just got it out of storage and going to go through it tomorrow and see how things are going before I take it out.
hey friend, i have a evinrude 50hp 1994 model AE50TLERE serie: Q03525750, i cant find a water pump for it, you know which i can substitute it with? im from brazil and need your help thank you very much
Ok, I have checked my kill switch and looks like it's working to specs. It beeps when key switch is off and beeps when on. I bought this boat on offer up so it has never been started since I had it. My compression is good. What will be my next step to check. Please advise. Thank you
Thanks, Matt. It's been a couple of years, so I figured I'd watch a refresher. This was perfect!
Hey! Glad you enjoyed it!
I really like all the do not touch warnings!!! Excellent info for us mad scientists out there!
You're welcome! That screw is tempting, but we know better!
Yo! great video. I'm a new boat owner and I'm a tinkerer. I know my way around maintenance items, but I've never owned a boat. My friend that is a boat guy said one of the best things to do when you get a used boat is change the impeller ASAP, so that what I'll be doing soon. Thanks for the warnings too!
Thanks man! You want to have a good impeller in there or else you'll burn your engine up.
Enjoy how you explain all of your repair work. You think of the little things that make the assemblies go back together easier. Thanks for your time and effort
Thanks 👍I try my best, I am a detail oriented person!
@@MattsShopI have 90 hp e tec2006 the water pump just went on it
My impeller on my 1979 200 Hp evinrude was 20+ years old and looked just like yours. I have a 15 HP Honda that the impeller crapped out on me around the 20 year mark so got me thinking about changing the one on my 200 Hp. Better to be safe than sorry. Thanks for the video
Good info, but as I was watching you put the housing back on, I saw your special shaped o-ring for the bottom of the housing spinning around on the impeller, if you had glued it and the inner o-ring at the 4 tabs like the directions tell you too, you wouldnt have had it dropped down, it has a special shape to fit housing, hope you fixed that before tightening the 4 bolts, hope this saves somebody else from "greasing" the o-ring, use adhesive like the directions say.
I was thinking the same thing. That's why I purchase OEM. They come with step by step instructions. I don't think after market parts have them. I would suggest to any DIYer to purchase a factory manual for your specific motor before attempting any repairs. These things are too expensive to half ass any repair.
Nice video. Had to have my impeller replaced 2 years ago after 28 years of use, 1994 50hp Evinrude. I had no idea this should be replaced yearly until the marine shop mentioned it. Since this is the second year on the new one, I checked out your video to see if I can do this myself. Darn, doesn't look like it is a one person job. Appreciate the info.
Thanks, I've heard guys say 1 year-3 years. It just depends on how much you use the boat and how much it sits. It's not hard to do. It's best with 2 people though.
Best step by step I've seen so far. Was great help thanks. I forgot the oring had to go back in wasn't sure where it went first time.
Great to hear! Thanks!
you can use a ratchet strap to hold the lower unit up while removing the bolts, id say 50% of lower units are destroyed because people don't know about the bolt under the trim tab
Yea, I remembered that trick after I got it bolted back up lol
another quick tech tip, take a sharpie and mark the shift shaft so you can see if it turned while putting the lower unit back up,, make an upside down T on the side of the shift rod just above the rubber seal ring so you can look in and see if it went down or turned as its lifted into place, the upper end of the shift rod is curved forward and wont allow the unit to raise into position if it turns.
Great idea!
You sir are a good mechanic 👍.
Appreciate it 👍
i like your video's , i learn a lot from watching them , you do a good job explaining everything with a lot of very informative knowledge
That large o' ring around the plastic housing, it's best to lightly super glue it in the housing groove. It appears that in your video it was hanging down around the impeller and not seated in the housing groove properly as you were mounting it. People use grease to hold it in place, but I found out that the best is light dabs of super glue to keep it in place.
Yea, glue works the good too. I got it seated haven't had any problems!
Glad I found your vid dude. Done several water pump rebuilds but was having hell with the Impeller Shaft key on my 84 Johnson GT 150. The instructions I was working off of were blurry and poor🤣 got it put right together after watching. I usually get a solid 3-4 years out of my impellers. Always good to change them when they look like yours in the video for sure!
Thanks man, yea that Johnson 150 GT is the same outboard as this. I'm glad I helped!
Everytime I see someone do a DIY video it comes out great but when I try forget it!!!
Lol, You got this! I promise!
Matt, love the video. I have a 1986 40hp Evinrude that I bought used in 2014 and it still has a strong discharge stream. I don't know how long they last but we will see.
If it has a strong tell tale stream it should be good for a while. You never know.
Cool video thanks.
Btw, that small screw you said would release things inside the lower gear, is NOT what that is.
I know from experience, that is a retaining screw you remove to release-replace that white plastic water screen that is just inside the water intake gills. I think it's important or they wouldn't have put it there. So I replaced my damaged one on my 1980 Evinrude v4 crossflow 140hp.
Look on both sides to see if it's white plastic holes are age damaged. If original, it’s probably pretty damaged.
If damage, just order a new one so you can access and replace next time you drop your lower unit, like when doing water pump.
With lower unit removed:
Remove the set screw, find the top of the deep cast cavity the one peice plastic screen cage is down inside. Use long pliers to grab and pull out the old one. If stubborn to come up, wiggle and wd40 as needed. Install the new one all the way back down. Reinstall its exterior retaining screw.
Done.
Everything I've ever seen says to not touch them. Either way, that screen is going to drop if you take the screw out.
That little screw holds the pinion bearing from moving upward
nice video should gearcase be in reverse from the start?I'll plan to securely tape the shift rod bolt to the sockect extension. got a link to the aviation gasket/sealant? thanks for tip on the screw next to screen. you make this job look easy.your lucky you have your Daddy helping.
7 months late, but great video! needed to change mine out. The first step with that “special bolt” I had to really try to find it because in the video you didn’t point out where it was just showed a general location. other than that awesome 👏
That bolt is a PAIN to get in and out that's why I cut the video there haha.
Still cant find it!!!!
It's a horizontal bolt with a 10mm head. Trace the shift rod down from the mechanism. You will find it.
Thank you for posting!
You're welcome.
I have a 76 Johnson 115 that looks very close, super helpful video thank you. I ran my boat on land with muffs on for about 1min but didn't see water coming out of water exhaust port or prop. Does this mean my impeller is likely toast?
I wouldn't call it toast unless there is no water out of the tell tale with the boat in the ocean or on the lake. Muffs do that sometimes.
Thank you so much for your help brother! Great video 🤘🏼
You're welcome. Anytime!
What did you torque the housing bolts to?
Buen trabajo brother gracias por la clase 👍👍👍
Hello Matt
Thanks for your reply regarding öocation of upper pin. I have had headace regarding this impellerchange. Shaft was very stuck and this model does not have a pin. Anyway, engine ok now, boat in the water.
Michael
Glad you got it fixed.
Hey love your content thanks for all the help especially because your working on a big outboard evinrude its so hard to find videos so you have been a lifesaver. Thank you would you mind doing a video on that 150 evinrude outboard showing how to correctly set the timing and possibly how to get it to where it runs smoothly from idle to full throttle ? i been having trouble with mine as when i go to full throttle seems like it just keeps going higher in rpms. Thanks
Please don't mess with the timing screw. It's the easiest way to destroy an outboard if you don't know what you're doing.
I'd by a service manual and follow the procedure on how to "Link and Sync" your outboard. All 3 carburetor butterflies and the throttle cable have to be perfectly synced.
And no power check prop size and prop hub and engine hiegh
Are the 1984 150s the same or different whenchanging the impeller?
Should be the same or VERY close!
Hey Matt off topic but I couldn't find one of your channel with it. Do you know how to remove that plastic skirt under the lower pan that covers the pan to the mid shaft? I can get the two bolts off the side but it still feels like it's bolted some where
I just changed my impeller this year 1st time in 16 years
Good job! 👍🏼
Thank you so much for your video.
Glad it was helpful!
Interesting, on my '86 Evinrude 110 the shift linkage connector is not a bolt, it a pin held on by a SS cotter pin.
I have seen that on some models of outboards.
Hello!!!!
Great video!!!
Do you remember the number of your propeller???
Thanks
I don't remember if you go to boats.net you can look up the part for your outboard.
very thorough thanks man
Always!
Great video!! So besides the housing bolts did you coat the gasket and ware plate with the gasket sealant or only the bolts? One of the other videos it shows them coating then the other video used no sealant at all just grease around the oring of the housing
Tanks for the video
You're welcome!
I have the impeller put on on idol is not squirting water unless if you open the throttle hard twice it does not have the thermostat so it should come out right away right
Nice helpful video!
Glad to hear that!
I'm going to do this on my 98 150 ob Johnson can you please tell me all the tools I will need thanks.. love the video
You just need a basic socket set pretty much, 10mm, 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8" sockets.
@@MattsShop thanks I appreciate it
One more question what about the bolt for the gear shifter what size is that and how long of a extension thanks have a good day
Hey man do you know how to get the water pump tube out?
hey man! i’m doing mine for the first time! i have an 86 evinrude 65. i have extra o rings. can you let me know if an o right goes under wear plate or above? one goes in cup? then one goes in groove on the top of my shaft? i don’t know where they go because mine were missing i guess or deteriorated away. thanks man!
If you look at the diagram on www.boats.net there's an O-Ring that goes at the very top of the lower unit shaft. Probably not what you are talking about though. They are all a little different. You have to make sure you put them in the right place so it seals well.
Why does the wholesale marine video on TH-cam for these motors recommend shifting into Reverse before removing the shifter linkage bolt?
It probably makes it easier to get the bolt out because it moves it under the engine cowling when you move the lever.
What size and tool did you use to take out the first bolt in your video and what pin are you talking about brotha?
I use long reach extension needle nose pliers.
Nice video brother, could you help me how to get the shift rod back in position as I can't see on your video, do you think if the shift rod connected properly to the pin no problem lock into gear ?
Use ratchet straps to help hold up the lower unit! You just have to work it in there. It takes a couple tries.
How many hours does it take for a certified marine mechanic to do this job? Thanks
It takes me like 1.5-2 hours, but I cleanup everything perfect. The hardest part is getting the shift shaft bolt out.
Do you have to take the boat out on the shift bracket or can you just on the other side pull the pins
Great video, very informative. What torque specs did you use for the water pump housing bolts, and also the external bolts that hold the lower unit in place? Ordering everything today to do this same job! 1994 Johnson 175 Fast Strike! Thanks!
Also if you think it's been ran hot. How can you tell and the head?
It's hard to tell. Best way to tell is if the paint is peeling/flaking off the powerhead its been ran hot. If the impeller is melted or destroyed too.
Great job 👍
Thanks 👍
Yep rubber seal fell it's easier if you turn the housing instead of shaft push down and turn
Impeller housing base gasket howd it magically go into the groove after dangling? Also you didnt show the hardest part the shift shaft.
You just have to play with the gasket to get it in its groove. The shift shaft is easy, length top of gear case to center of hole in the shaft. Measurements are in the book I showed. Play with it until it goes back up into the power head.
That cause he sucks and doesn't show the struggle I rebuilt this whole motor new power head water. Baffles carbs never the water pump it's easy thou. Transom check my page
Any suggestions on taking that shift linkage screw out? I’m about to do this job on my 97’ 115 Evinrude.
Very long double jointed needle nose pliers.
What should I change out first if the boat been sitting for a while? It runs but when u put the handle down to gas it it die
Carb kit and water pump impeller. Syncing the carbs can be a pain.
Worked on my water pump too and my drive shaft slipped out the gearcase. Now it won't seat. Leaving me a half in gap from the gearcase. I've tried spinning the prop still nonluck.
Thanks for sharing , is the 96 115 ocean pro the same set up ? Cheers
Going to be very similar!
Great guide Matt!
I tried to follow the steps, but I rotated my shift rod before stumbling across this video...
My motor is a 1983 Evinrude 235 E235TRLCTD. I bought a CLYMER manual and it says for long model (~22in) V6 1979-1984, the shift rod height in neutral should be 21 1/6th in.
I tried to measure from gearcase to offset hole, but I've found that the shift rod cannot be lowered enough to match 21 1/16th.
Maybe my manual is wrong, do you have any info for what the shift rod height should be for a 1983 Evinrude 235 E235TRLCTD? I literally can't find any info because the info in my manual doesn't work...!
Hey, silly question. Are you measuring from the top of the gear case to the center of the shift rod hole in neutral? I don't know what the shift rod height is supposed to be for that model. I'd search on forums or buy an OEM Evinrude service manual off of eBay for cheap. They are insanely better than CLYMER manuals.
Hey Yall! New impellers and parts in the description! Shift shaft bolt removal: th-cam.com/video/-H6FDkyKifk/w-d-xo.html (Forgot in this video!)
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Hello Matt my propeller is not moving do I have to turn the shaft aft er the steps I follow not sure what I did wrong
Dont run it like that! Did you mess with the shift rod?
Ok I figured it out I did move the shift rod back the way it was I did take pics as I took it off ! Thank you !
Big boss I change impeller on my 225 evinrrude 1990 but I have no revers now , can you giveme son idea please! Tanks you!
Did you unscrew the shift rod??
For the life of me, I cant seem to find which bolt I need to remove from the shift linkage.
This is my first big outboard and man, the smaller ones are much easier lol.
It is hidden at the very bottom of the carbs. You can follow the shift rod up and find it that way. It is a pain to find, remove, and replace lol.
@@MattsShop finally found it on mine. The pin was on the starboard side between the shifter and the power head. Was super easy to get to and disconnect. Was just super hard to see if you dont know where to look.
You don't need to remove any bolts. There's a pin on the right side, you pull the pin and tap that little shaft in and it will release the shift link.
I have no idea why everyone is removing the bolt?
How can you tell if the motor has a crack in it? I'm getting ready to buy a Evinrude 50cc he says it just needs the bottom impeller? So any suggestions on what to look for when I go to look at it to purchase?? 😊
It's on a Thundercraft 50 CC Evanrude I think
around 8:28 you looked at a manual, what was it and where did you get it? PS. thanks for the info.
It's the original service manual. I got it on eBay. Just make sure you get the factory original manual, not Clymer or Haynes.
any tips on getting the lower unit back in after the pump install like i get it all the way back up then seems to alwasy have like half a inch left
The trick you can do is use a ratchet strap and slowly ratchet the lower unit back up and line everything up. It takes the weight off your back.
I change my water pump every 8 years. As the boats trailered. Not left in water and flushed with every use of there is no sign of an issue
Ive got a 150 Ev 1997 .....never changed plugs or pump or anything . So after 23 years the fuel pump started getting a little weak on high throttle . 10 dollar low pressure pump off ebay fixed that
The rubber fuel pumps used in outboards goes bad for sure. You're right it makes them run really bad at WOT.
@@MattsShop I mix oil with gas for that reason. Fuel pump and oil injector are 1 . I just cut the oil line at tank and plugged it
As long as you never started out water I've got them the last five to six years.now I change them every two years cuz they're not as strong as I used to be
Ok good to know. I thought 4 years was pushing it. I NEVER start it out of water without muffs on a hose.
So I took that special bolt out, then I saw this video. What do I need to do now?
The special screw??? Oh no. This isn't the video for you. You need to call a professional or look on forums online.
How did you get to that special bolt?? Pics please
Just use a 1/4" swivel and a very long 1/4" extension. Once its loose, use needle nose pliers to pull the bolt out.
Trying to disconnect the shifter on a 69 Evinrude but I can’t find the bolt that holds the link? Any idea on where this is located?
What did you use to get to that bolt?
I use long reach needle nose pliers. Magnet won't work it's stainless steel.
Adhesive M on that spaghetti ring :)
It'll help hold it in place.
Do you have an engine rebuild videos for a 1986 e110tlcd out board
No, I never completely rebuilt the engine. I just worked on the fuel and ignition components.
Should i lube the while shaft or just the spline
Just the splines.
how people care for the pump impellor ... is there a preinstall rubber spray? good to hand turn the engine shaft quarter a turn every week?
You are worried about the rubber impeller getting stuck in the "used" position? I wouldn't worry about it.
Hi what is the glue and grease that you use and where does the glue or that stuff go? Great vid!
Hey, the grease is just any grease to help the rubber impeller slide together and the "glue" is called Permatex Aviation Gasket maker. It just helps seal things up.
Can I used this method on a 48 spl evinrude
Yes, it's going to be very similar.
I broke the head off the steering screw thats under the starter. Dang it. Well I'm see how long this impeller.will last on my 73 johnson 50horse. I didn't even get past step 1. Well it happens. Glory to the Lord Jesus forever!
Thanks.
I changed my waterpump,but now it won't pump water through the engine,what would cause this?
Don't run it like that!!!! Take it back apart. You missed something. The key probly fell out of the pump impellor.
you need to put the boat in the water !
When i put the keyway on the flat part and slid impellar down i had a little play before it catches on rotation. Is that normal?
Same part for a 2017 e-tec 90hp ?
This is for the older evinrude outboards. Probably not, you're gonna have to look it up.
Very good video. No idea how long the impellers should last. I like to change mine. :-) soon. All the best from Oslo Norway.
I've seen impellers 5 years old that still look good haha. They say 1-2 years depending on how much you use the boat.
What's the first screw up top for?
The very top BIG screw on the lower unit is the oil max level vent to change the lower unit oil. Don't touch the small screw in the middle of the lower unit.
No the very first screw in the video up on top
@Jason Janicki HERE: th-cam.com/users/shorts-H6FDkyKifk?feature=share
That's for the shift rod linkage. It is what allows the lower unit to shift gears.
I hope this is the same on a 79
What you use to get shift linkage bolt off
A very long 1/4" extension, swivel, and I believe it's a 3/8" or 10mm socket. The bolt is stainless so it's not magnetic. If you drop the bolt you have to fish it out with needle nose pliers. Maybe stuff a rag down there.
Thanks mine I found out u take the throttle off and push it took hrs to find out 😂
Yea, it can be VERY difficult on some engines.
@@MattsShop ya I’m still not getting water out the top I think the water tube is cracked
Yeah, comes off a lot easier with ALL the bolts out, huh...???
It helps doesn't it?
How Oder any part my evenrude
Check description Amazon or Boats.net
everything except what i wanted. did not show how to connect the shift rod
It's not too bad. Just re-align everything back up with the shift rod in neutral. That's when the shift rod is the longest. Then put the bolt in.
thanks matt just had a lot of trouble getting it hooked up finally got it today thanks again
i didn't have to remove the bolt just enough clearance to slide the shaft over and allow the shift rod to be removed
I wonder how many people screwed up their lower unit because you didn't tell them to put it in reverse first
Doesn't matter as long as the shift rod is in the same position when you take it apart and put back together.
Also he did say that
Woulda been neat to see where that bolt that was a bitch came from. 😂
My 5 year old 30 hp e-tec can’t get a full year out of the water pump and prv/thermostat……The old days are gone. Everything is junk now……..
Thats insane. This impeller was 3 years old.
I noticed you never say anything about water tube
At this point my 125 is more Sierra than evinrude
Haha it will more and more after Evinrude quits making parts.
OK, so what happened? When you put the impeller into the housing, you put some kinda wire or something around the vanes... it wouldn't go on, then EDIT! it's magically on. What happened? I only ask 'cause it looks like a real pain in the a$$, and if I tried to do it, it wouldn't work. Thanks.
You got good eyes. It was a pain to get the base O-ring to stay in its groove in the plastic housing. I put the impeller on, then put the metal cup on, and then dropped the plastic housing over that.
It's not that hard, just make sure you twist the new impeller to match the old one. Make sure the O-rings don't fall out.
@@MattsShop Thanks!
You skipped right over the hard part
Lol what's that. The pin?
You know your video would be OK if you were stick to doing an impeller video and not a goddamn how long your shafts supposed to be video
Wtf dude. It's one of the most important settings on an outboard. You're comment would be better if you didn't make it.
It should be location
Shoot I got 8 years out of my pump.
Woah, you got 8 years out of that pump? That's crazy.
@@MattsShop ya I have a Glastron Carlson 16’ with the 110 Johnson still was peeing good last year. Just got it out of storage and going to go through it tomorrow and see how things are going before I take it out.
hey friend, i have a evinrude 50hp 1994 model AE50TLERE serie: Q03525750, i cant find a water pump for it, you know which i can substitute it with? im from brazil and need your help thank you very much
Hey, check this out: www.boats.net/catalog/evinrude/outboard/50hp/e50tlere-1994/gearcase
I have 1985 evinrude 150hp no spark. I've see all your videos. I swapped the time base and still no spark. Can you please advise.
Have you tested the kill switch circuit?
@MattsShop no I haven't. I'll try that, and I'll follow up. Thank you
Ok, I have checked my kill switch and looks like it's working to specs. It beeps when key switch is off and beeps when on. I bought this boat on offer up so it has never been started since I had it. My compression is good. What will be my next step to check. Please advise. Thank you
* AND it does not beep when key is on