Really helpful, thank you. You were really clear and articulated yourself brilliantly. I appreciated this because I'm rubbish with stuff like this. Thank you
@Phil Hode It's hard to say for sure, but shielded CAT cable would generally be better. Whether that's shielded CAT6/CAT6a or CAT7 (which already has extra shielding) is up to you - both should work well 🙂
I have a garage in my back yard and want wifi in there I think a Ethernet cable work be fine do I use any router and would putting it in Another router work would I have the same login and password as my router in my house or would it be different?
Yes that would work fine, however not every router will work. The router is effectively working as an access point and some ISP routers disallow this. Having said that, I reused a BT HomeHub 2 in the UK and that worked okay. It will probably create a brand new WiFi network, since it's basically a second WiFi router that you have setup.
So if I'm barely getting signal from my neighbor, (can't really watch TH-cam) could I use a wifi extender to be able to get better signal AND upload and download speeds?
A WiFi extender would certainly help with getting a better signal. And if it was a very weak signal before, the extender would then help improve upload and download speeds too (but naturally they'll still be capped at the ISP rates you ordered with your package).
Re: outbuildings and shared consumer units. I've experienced difficulties here, before my rewire in 2018 on 50 plus year old wiring the circuit was definitely shared and some Moss security lights which sent a signal to an audible chime on a unit inside when the PIR was triggered worked perfectly. As soon as my new wiring was installed with the outbuildings now fed from the house consumer unit by armour plated cable the apparatus stopped working; further testing revealed that if I used it in the house it worked and if I used it in the outbuilding it worked but nothing if one element was in the house and the other outside, I've found this to be the case with range extenders as well. In very simplistic terms it's as if there's a resistance issue due to the distance (10-70m depending on outbuilding) or the step up from internal cable to external armour plated.
That's really useful to know, thanks for the info. In my case, powerline adapters have been fine across different circuits (but the same consumer unit)... but they definitely aren't fool proof, I agree.
Hands down this is the best video out here on this topic! My question is for method 6 (running an etherent cable). I am running a 50 meter cat 6 cable underground from my Sky router to my outbuilding. What kind of router do i buy to plug it into. Ive heard people say access points and some people saying a basic router is fine. Just a little confused as to what would be best? Any advice would be highly appreciated. Thanks!
I have Sonos wifi speakers and a Sky Minibox in my mancave at the bottom of my garden. I used TP-Link power line adapters and everything worked at the beginning. Then my Sky Q main box started experiencing internet connection problems. This would filter back to the mancave and things stopped working properly. The connection would constantly drop out and then reconnect itself. I changed all my Ethernet cables, got a new Sky Q box from Sky and even changed my ISP. All to no avail. Eventually i unplugged the TP-Link PA and the internet connection reconnected and stayed up. Powerline adapters are a great idea but they're not for everyone. If you try them out and the internet connection drops out, remember this post. And keep your receipt as you'll be able to get your money back. I'm in the process of running an external ethernet cable to the mancave instead. I hope its worth the trouble !!
Hey Steve, thanks for the comment. That sounds pretty annoying! Luckily my TP-Link power line adapters seem okay overall, but I do suspect that they cause a bit of WiFi interference - my WiFi seemed a bit less reliable after using them. I'm glad you were able to figure out the cause, and I agree that running an external Ethernet cable is probably the best route for you. Hope that goes well for you!
That was very helpful, thank you👍🏻 Do you know if the powerline adapter works if the secondary house is on a different electricity company meter? (I don't think so as it's not on the same electrical circuit). One annoying thing is that when searching for repeater or booster, internet gives results mostly for extenders that works on a different network, meaning you have to choose between your house network or the extender network, it's not the same thing, plus the one I tried was a fraction of speed, even in the same room as my router, I returned it. I think I'll use either a cable or a bridge system but it requires a second router in both cases, so the most efficient and economical is running a cable, not the easiest tho☹.👋🏻
hey, im currently using a powerline adapter from a different building, and the internet sucks, I know its not an issue with the system itself because its the same one I used in my last house where it worked fine. Id really suggest another alternative
@@samioy. I ended up running an ethernet cable from my modem/router to an access point (on the same network) , in the secondary house, the speed is now great there but I get disconnected very often in the main house, I might need to upgrade my internet service, or perhaps it's a coincidence.👋🏻
Hmm that's odd. Sometimes the house's electrics can cause issues with power line adapters, especially if it's older wiring. Or it may have been a faulty device. WiFi extenders should work okay to be honest - and mesh is almost an extension of this (i.e. a bit of a better version of it). So it could be worth trying to understand what caused your extenders not to work - was it mainly that you had a weak signal? If so, perhaps your walls are thick in which case only a quality mesh system (and lots of mesh points) will work. It's hard to know for sure though, since every house is different and may have different WiFi disturbances based on nearby factors and neighbours etc.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks for explaining all this, signal was strong but it keeps disconnecting after every 30 minutes or so. And the only way was to turn it on and off which was annoying.
Hey really helpful video man. I have a question and it may be a dumb one but; if my home has a modem can I purchase a router and run it to an external building and get a WiFi signal in there?
Thanks man 🙂 Yes there's various options for getting a WiFi signal in an outbuilding. It depends on exactly what modem you have, but if you're able to run an Ethernet cable from the modem to an outbuilding, that would be the 'best' option - you would plug the Ethernet cable into the modem, then get a WiFI router in your external building and plug the Ethernet cable into that. Of course, this is 'best' - but might be too time consuming (or expensive) to actually run the Ethernet cable all that way. An alternative would be to purchase a few "whole home WiFi" discs, and plug the first into your modem. Then put another between the first disc and your external building, and another disc in your external building. Then the discs work together to provider WiFI throughout your home, and your external building too.
Yes, it sounds like you'll need RJ45 adapters/connectors and a crimping tool. There's various videos on TH-cam showing how to crimp a CAT cable. It's a bit fidly at first, but it's not too hard. And then for the router, any should work but because you're essentially creating a WiFi access point, some routers (especially old ones from ISPs) might need extra configuration. I cover what I did to turn my BT HomeHub 6 into a WiFi access point in this video: th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I was wondering, can I run the cable into my garden building, into a face plate & then run a smaller flexible cable from the face plate into a router and get WiFi that way? Is it better to run the cable direct into the router?
Hello, running it into a faceplate - and then running a new CAT cable from the faceplate to the router is totally fine, and is a more standard approach. You will need to wire up the faceplate which is naturally an extra step, but this approach will be better overall IMO.
They wouldn't work, no, since they take power from the mains. Plus my WiFi is off during a power cut too, meaning my Ring cameras are pointless due to having no local storage 🙂
@@SmartHomePoint thanks, I was thinking about modulation of a non-existant base signal. But of course you are right: the units at either end would be unpowered anyway! Perhaps pulling a cable is ultimately the best, paired with POE or 12V battery packs or whatever, if not UPS.
Question I was thinking of the Ethernet cable but router is far away can I add a splitter to coax cable of provider and run coax wire to ship and hook it up to a router?
To be honest, I'm not too sure sorry. I have heard of people using coax for internet data (i.e. Ethernet over Coax), but I can't say with any confidence that what you're proposing will work. I hope it does though (please let me know if so, I'm interested!), and maybe someone else can comment if they know more.
Very informative video, thanks. For me it would be easiest to split my incoming Broadband and run a coax from the splitter to my outbuilding, is that an option (I suspect not) and if so what device would I need in the outbuilding to connect my coax into? Thanks.
Thanks , glad it was helpful 🙂 Using coax for internet could actually work well - I've heard about working fine, but I don't know any specifics (max speeds, signal degredation etc) unfortunately. In terms of an adapter, I think you can get coax to Ethernet adapters which seems like what you would need: www.amazon.com/coaxial-ethernet-adapter/s?k=coaxial+to+ethernet+adapter Then you can just use Ethernet to a WiFi access point in the outbuilding.
Hi Tristan, do you know the name of any powerline adaptors that have the ethernet on one and wifi on the other, it's for my mancave, to allow me to receive WiFi on my sons gadgets, any feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks
Hi Russ, sure, TP-Link do a few of these, a UK example being: www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WPA4220-Powerline-Extender-Broadband-Configuration/dp/B00DEYDF8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=powerline+adapter+with+wifi&qid=1617545678&sr=8-4
@@SmartHomePoint your a legend, thanks very much, really appreciate you taking the time to make and upload videos, I'd be lost without good people like yourself 👍
It will work if the barn's electrics meet at the same consumer unit/breaker panel/distribution unit (different phrases for the same thing, depending where you are in the World). My downstairs and garage are on different electrical circuits but work fine, as they both still meet in my consumer unit. However if the electric supply to your barn is from a completely different source, it probably wouldn't work.
Hi, very helpful, I have a Ethernet cable that comes to my garage, it connected to a Sky Q box, and that gave me wifi in the garage, but I changed my provider to EE from Sky and the Q boxes now does not give me wifi, is there something that I can plug the Ethernet cable into before plugging it in the Q box that would give me wifi there?
Hi, thanks! So do you have an actual Ethernet cable running throughout your house and into your garage? If so, you should be able to plug this into your EE router in your home (using an Ethernet extension cable if needed), and then use a WiFi router as an access point in your garage. But if it's the case that the Sky Q box provides the Ethernet cables, that's also fine - this is your Sky Q boxes acting as powerline adapters. In this case, adding a WiFi router in your garage (again acting as an access point) will work well. The WiFi access point/router approach can be a bit of a pain to setup at first, but I show most of it in another video: th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps!
@@SmartHomePoint Hi, Yes that is what I thought but just needed to hear it from someone that knows !. I have a Netgear N150 that I am going to instal tomorrow, it an old one I had from before. Thanks for your time, I have liked and Subscribed, hope your keeping safe in these difficult times, thank you again. Griff
Thanks. Using the Ethernet cable method, is there a difference between a cat5e or cat6 cable? Also, does it really matter what category cable to use if the download speed from my network provided is less than 100mb/s?
Nope you're correct that it doesn't really matter. Cat5e and Cat6 will work the same way here (max 1000 Mbps speed) but as you say, both would be limited by network speeds if your ISP offer less than 100 mb/s.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks. So, I’m guessing it’s really a question of future proofing the work for when (maybe 5/10 years time) when we all have ultra 500+mbs download speed? Cool.
Great info. So I already have a ethernet cable ran to my building from my house and I have sagemcom modem/router from Windstream in the building cause thats just what I had lying around. I have fiber wifi from my power company in the house and I get around 100mbps in house but only get 10-20 mbps in building could this be because I need a better router in the building?
Hmm, that's odd. Perhaps try plugging a laptop directly into the building's Ethernet cable and then run a speed test. If that also shows 100mbps (or close to it), I agree that the router is probably the issue. Beyond that it's hard to know what to suggest - the length of Ethernet cable and the port it's plugged into in your house could also have an effect.
@@SmartHomePoint just in case anyone wants to know. I bought a Netgear ac1000 nighthawk router and now my speeds up and down are 100 mbps the max my provider offers so it was the old modem/router from windstream.
If I run an Ethernet cable between the two buildings how do you configure the two modems do they talk to each other? Is this advanced or simple? I appreciate your help
You can use an old router or a network switch (a switch is often the better option) and in 99% of cases it should be plug and play - it shouldn't require any extra config. In other words, it should be simple.
Haha yes I know the feeling! So plugging the Ethernet cable into the router should be fine. Regarding it's WiFi, effectively you're creating a wireless access point. This may or may not need extra configuration within the router's admin panel. I did this in my garage (my Ring Indoor Cam connects to the router over WiFi) which I explain in this video plus the video's description: th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html
Great video. So I put ethernet cable to my outbuilding. So if I get a router and plug the outbuilding end one into it I'd have wifi out there? Also I'm using sky internet. I have an old bt internet box. Would that work?
Thanks! Yes that should work well, however the main thing to know is that the old BT router needs a bit of configuring first. This can vary per model, but I did this for my garage at th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html and the description on that video outlines the steps I needed to take for my particular BT box model.
Whilst I just have non-WiFi power line adapters, I do know of people with wireless ones that really like them, e.g. this TP-Link one: www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-WiFi-Extender/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=powerline+adapter+with+wifi&qid=1610267006&sprefix=powerline+adapter&sr=8-3 The main thing to know is that they still require being plugged into the wall sockets on each end, and also one end needs an Ethernet connection to the router (or a network switch). But then the other end will offer up a new WiFi network, making it more practical to work with on the other end. Happy to answer any more questions you have on this approach though :)
Thanks, glad you found it useful! The Powerline adapters should work as long as they're connected back to the same circuit board. I use Powerline adapters for my garage (connected to my living room) and they're completely separate circuits but they still work fine. Apparently the performance can be a bit reduced on different circuits, but they've been working fine for me (I have a Ring camera in my garage and there's no issues with this uploading full HD footage, for example).
Thanks, glad you like the video and shirt 😆 And yes, Elon is awesome, it'll be interesting to see all his and his companies' progress over the next few years. 👍
@@SmartHomePoint I DID find a remedy . . I ran an ethernet cable from my living room wifi tower to an Amped Wireless extender just outside my backdoor which then sent a direct-line-of-site signal to a repeater in my garage/office...then connected it to a small ethernet cable to my desktop computer and VOILA!
@@SmartHomePoint Well it worked for a day. Q: If I ran a 75 foot ethernet cable from our wifi hub out to my garage and directly into my computer, would the ditance degrade to quality of the signal?
75 foot should be absolutely fine. The usual limit is 300 ft, or slightly less (180 ft) for much higher gigabit speeds. If you're running it outdoors at points then CAT7 cable might be worth exploring as it has extra shielding, and will still be fine over 75 feet.
So my husbands barn is about 400ft away from home. We bought this thing You plug in that supposed to extend. But it’s choppy sn doesn’t work all that well. We don’t want to pay for exta internet lol. Is women terms lol can You give me the best option. I had trouble following all the info cause most I’m clueless of what You are saying lol. If I was educated this would be the best hands down explanation
Hah no worries 🙂 Uhm based on the distance, the best/easiest option would be a TP-Link Powerline Adapter - assuming that the barn goes through the same breaker box (electric box) as your house. Then you just pop an Ethernet cable in at each end - one near your router in your house, and one near the Powerline Adapter in the barn. Let me know if it's not the same electric circuit/box though.
So if I get an extender I need a second one to have in my cabin to actually pick up the WiFi ? Is that what my issues been with it as I’ve attempted this before and couldn’t work it
Really helpful, thank you. You were really clear and articulated yourself brilliantly. I appreciated this because I'm rubbish with stuff like this. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words, glad you found the video useful!
Very good,what is the correct/best ethernet cable,caravan is about 110 ft from house
@Phil Hode It's hard to say for sure, but shielded CAT cable would generally be better. Whether that's shielded CAT6/CAT6a or CAT7 (which already has extra shielding) is up to you - both should work well 🙂
I have a garage in my back yard and want wifi in there I think a Ethernet cable work be fine do I use any router and would putting it in
Another router work would I have the same login and password as my router in my house or would it be different?
Yes that would work fine, however not every router will work. The router is effectively working as an access point and some ISP routers disallow this. Having said that, I reused a BT HomeHub 2 in the UK and that worked okay. It will probably create a brand new WiFi network, since it's basically a second WiFi router that you have setup.
Have a look at this other video, where I explain the process I followed in more detail: th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html
So if I'm barely getting signal from my neighbor, (can't really watch TH-cam) could I use a wifi extender to be able to get better signal AND upload and download speeds?
A WiFi extender would certainly help with getting a better signal. And if it was a very weak signal before, the extender would then help improve upload and download speeds too (but naturally they'll still be capped at the ISP rates you ordered with your package).
Re: outbuildings and shared consumer units. I've experienced difficulties here, before my rewire in 2018 on 50 plus year old wiring the circuit was definitely shared and some Moss security lights which sent a signal to an audible chime on a unit inside when the PIR was triggered worked perfectly. As soon as my new wiring was installed with the outbuildings now fed from the house consumer unit by armour plated cable the apparatus stopped working; further testing revealed that if I used it in the house it worked and if I used it in the outbuilding it worked but nothing if one element was in the house and the other outside, I've found this to be the case with range extenders as well. In very simplistic terms it's as if there's a resistance issue due to the distance (10-70m depending on outbuilding) or the step up from internal cable to external armour plated.
That's really useful to know, thanks for the info. In my case, powerline adapters have been fine across different circuits (but the same consumer unit)... but they definitely aren't fool proof, I agree.
@@SmartHomePoint Supplemental. I've set up the AV600 kit this morning with no issues in the building furthest away from the main house.
Hmm interesting, thanks for the update and I'm glad the AV600 kit seems to be working fine 🙂
If your outbuilding is metal and is on a separate electrical meter what's the best method.
Hi can you run the Ethernet cable to an out building connect to an extender instead of a router?
Hi, yes that would work fine (as long as the extender has an ethernet port). 🙂
Hands down this is the best video out here on this topic!
My question is for method 6 (running an etherent cable).
I am running a 50 meter cat 6 cable underground from my Sky router to my outbuilding.
What kind of router do i buy to plug it into. Ive heard people say access points and some people saying a basic router is fine.
Just a little confused as to what would be best?
Any advice would be highly appreciated.
Thanks!
I have Sonos wifi speakers and a Sky Minibox in my mancave at the bottom of my garden. I used TP-Link power line adapters and everything worked at the beginning. Then my Sky Q main box started experiencing internet connection problems. This would filter back to the mancave and things stopped working properly. The connection would constantly drop out and then reconnect itself. I changed all my Ethernet cables, got a new Sky Q box from Sky and even changed my ISP. All to no avail. Eventually i unplugged the TP-Link PA and the internet connection reconnected and stayed up. Powerline adapters are a great idea but they're not for everyone. If you try them out and the internet connection drops out, remember this post. And keep your receipt as you'll be able to get your money back.
I'm in the process of running an external ethernet cable to the mancave instead. I hope its worth the trouble !!
Hey Steve, thanks for the comment. That sounds pretty annoying!
Luckily my TP-Link power line adapters seem okay overall, but I do suspect that they cause a bit of WiFi interference - my WiFi seemed a bit less reliable after using them.
I'm glad you were able to figure out the cause, and I agree that running an external Ethernet cable is probably the best route for you. Hope that goes well for you!
That was very helpful, thank you👍🏻 Do you know if the powerline adapter works if the secondary house is on a different electricity company meter? (I don't think so as it's not on the same electrical circuit).
One annoying thing is that when searching for repeater or booster, internet gives results mostly for extenders that works on a different network, meaning you have to choose between your house network or the extender network, it's not the same thing, plus the one I tried was a fraction of speed, even in the same room as my router, I returned it.
I think I'll use either a cable or a bridge system but it requires a second router in both cases, so the most efficient and economical is running a cable, not the easiest tho☹.👋🏻
hey, im currently using a powerline adapter from a different building, and the internet sucks, I know its not an issue with the system itself because its the same one I used in my last house where it worked fine. Id really suggest another alternative
@@samioy. I ended up running an ethernet cable from my modem/router to an access point (on the same network) , in the secondary house, the speed is now great there but I get disconnected very often in the main house, I might need to upgrade my internet service, or perhaps it's a coincidence.👋🏻
Great info, thanks mate.
if your outbuilding is about 100 feet away from your main building is there a way to get wifi to the outbuilding?
I'd suggest looking at WiFi point to point technology, this sounds like it might be best based on the distance.
Thank you so much for explaining all of this! Very helpful.
No worries, glad to hear you found this helpful 🙂
Hello Tristan .question for you since you seem like a internet nerd
Thankyou for your time, this was helpful and Shiney!
Shiny! Glad you find it useful 🙂
I wish all youtube videos were this straightforward. Thanks for the info pal 👍👍
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful 🙂
I tried using the extenders and power line before but I keep getting dropped signal or no signal at all. Would the mesh be better?
Hmm that's odd. Sometimes the house's electrics can cause issues with power line adapters, especially if it's older wiring. Or it may have been a faulty device. WiFi extenders should work okay to be honest - and mesh is almost an extension of this (i.e. a bit of a better version of it).
So it could be worth trying to understand what caused your extenders not to work - was it mainly that you had a weak signal? If so, perhaps your walls are thick in which case only a quality mesh system (and lots of mesh points) will work.
It's hard to know for sure though, since every house is different and may have different WiFi disturbances based on nearby factors and neighbours etc.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks for explaining all this, signal was strong but it keeps disconnecting after every 30 minutes or so. And the only way was to turn it on and off which was annoying.
Hey really helpful video man. I have a question and it may be a dumb one but; if my home has a modem can I purchase a router and run it to an external building and get a WiFi signal in there?
Thanks man 🙂 Yes there's various options for getting a WiFi signal in an outbuilding. It depends on exactly what modem you have, but if you're able to run an Ethernet cable from the modem to an outbuilding, that would be the 'best' option - you would plug the Ethernet cable into the modem, then get a WiFI router in your external building and plug the Ethernet cable into that. Of course, this is 'best' - but might be too time consuming (or expensive) to actually run the Ethernet cable all that way. An alternative would be to purchase a few "whole home WiFi" discs, and plug the first into your modem. Then put another between the first disc and your external building, and another disc in your external building. Then the discs work together to provider WiFI throughout your home, and your external building too.
@@SmartHomePoint thank you
Thanks for all the information exactly what I needed really appreciate it cheers
You're welcome, glad you found this helpful!
Hi so I've ran my cat 6 cable to my outbuilding, it has no end connectors, do I need 2x RJ45 adapters and any type of router for WiFi?
Yes, it sounds like you'll need RJ45 adapters/connectors and a crimping tool. There's various videos on TH-cam showing how to crimp a CAT cable. It's a bit fidly at first, but it's not too hard. And then for the router, any should work but because you're essentially creating a WiFi access point, some routers (especially old ones from ISPs) might need extra configuration. I cover what I did to turn my BT HomeHub 6 into a WiFi access point in this video: th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I was wondering, can I run the cable into my garden building, into a face plate & then run a smaller flexible cable from the face plate into a router and get WiFi that way? Is it better to run the cable direct into the router?
Hello, running it into a faceplate - and then running a new CAT cable from the faceplate to the router is totally fine, and is a more standard approach. You will need to wire up the faceplate which is naturally an extra step, but this approach will be better overall IMO.
This was helpful - thank you.
No problem, glad you found it helpful!
Thank you so much. This was very helpful.
Does powerline work for your cameras during a power cut?
They wouldn't work, no, since they take power from the mains. Plus my WiFi is off during a power cut too, meaning my Ring cameras are pointless due to having no local storage 🙂
@@SmartHomePoint thanks, I was thinking about modulation of a non-existant base signal. But of course you are right: the units at either end would be unpowered anyway! Perhaps pulling a cable is ultimately the best, paired with POE or 12V battery packs or whatever, if not UPS.
Question I was thinking of the Ethernet cable but router is far away can I add a splitter to coax cable of provider and run coax wire to ship and hook it up to a router?
To be honest, I'm not too sure sorry. I have heard of people using coax for internet data (i.e. Ethernet over Coax), but I can't say with any confidence that what you're proposing will work. I hope it does though (please let me know if so, I'm interested!), and maybe someone else can comment if they know more.
this was perfect thank you!
Glad you found this video helpful 🙂
So I have plusnet router in house, I can run ethernet to caravan, have another router in caravan?,
So which router can I buy,and is it easy to set up with house 1 ?,thank you,technical things not my bag
goodman yourself that was most helpful
Very informative video, thanks. For me it would be easiest to split my incoming Broadband and run a coax from the splitter to my outbuilding, is that an option (I suspect not) and if so what device would I need in the outbuilding to connect my coax into? Thanks.
Thanks , glad it was helpful 🙂 Using coax for internet could actually work well - I've heard about working fine, but I don't know any specifics (max speeds, signal degredation etc) unfortunately. In terms of an adapter, I think you can get coax to Ethernet adapters which seems like what you would need: www.amazon.com/coaxial-ethernet-adapter/s?k=coaxial+to+ethernet+adapter
Then you can just use Ethernet to a WiFi access point in the outbuilding.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks for your reply, I will do some further research.
Hi Tristan, do you know the name of any powerline adaptors that have the ethernet on one and wifi on the other, it's for my mancave, to allow me to receive WiFi on my sons gadgets, any feedback would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Hi Russ, sure, TP-Link do a few of these, a UK example being: www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WPA4220-Powerline-Extender-Broadband-Configuration/dp/B00DEYDF8I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=powerline+adapter+with+wifi&qid=1617545678&sr=8-4
@@SmartHomePoint your a legend, thanks very much, really appreciate you taking the time to make and upload videos, I'd be lost without good people like yourself 👍
You're welcome, thanks for the kind words 🙂
If my barn has separate electrical can I still use the power line adaptor method ?
It will work if the barn's electrics meet at the same consumer unit/breaker panel/distribution unit (different phrases for the same thing, depending where you are in the World). My downstairs and garage are on different electrical circuits but work fine, as they both still meet in my consumer unit.
However if the electric supply to your barn is from a completely different source, it probably wouldn't work.
Hi, very helpful, I have a Ethernet cable that comes to my garage, it connected to a Sky Q box, and that gave me wifi in the garage, but I changed my provider to EE from Sky and the Q boxes now does not give me wifi, is there something that I can plug the Ethernet cable into before plugging it in the Q box that would give me wifi there?
Hi, thanks! So do you have an actual Ethernet cable running throughout your house and into your garage? If so, you should be able to plug this into your EE router in your home (using an Ethernet extension cable if needed), and then use a WiFi router as an access point in your garage.
But if it's the case that the Sky Q box provides the Ethernet cables, that's also fine - this is your Sky Q boxes acting as powerline adapters. In this case, adding a WiFi router in your garage (again acting as an access point) will work well.
The WiFi access point/router approach can be a bit of a pain to setup at first, but I show most of it in another video: th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps!
@@SmartHomePoint Hi,
Yes that is what I thought but just needed to hear it from someone that knows !.
I have a Netgear N150 that I am going to instal tomorrow, it an old one I had from before. Thanks for your time, I have liked and Subscribed, hope your keeping safe in these difficult times, thank you again.
Griff
Thanks Griff, I hope you're keeping well too! Netgear's are usually quite configurable so hopefully that'll work out well 👍 Thanks, Tristan
Thanks. Using the Ethernet cable method, is there a difference between a cat5e or cat6 cable? Also, does it really matter what category cable to use if the download speed from my network provided is less than 100mb/s?
Nope you're correct that it doesn't really matter. Cat5e and Cat6 will work the same way here (max 1000 Mbps speed) but as you say, both would be limited by network speeds if your ISP offer less than 100 mb/s.
@@SmartHomePoint Thanks. So, I’m guessing it’s really a question of future proofing the work for when (maybe 5/10 years time) when we all have ultra 500+mbs download speed? Cool.
Yep exactly, it's mainly a matter of future proofing (although I do know someone who recently got 1 Gbps speeds from Virgin!)
Great info. So I already have a ethernet cable ran to my building from my house and I have sagemcom modem/router from Windstream in the building cause thats just what I had lying around. I have fiber wifi from my power company in the house and I get around 100mbps in house but only get 10-20 mbps in building could this be because I need a better router in the building?
Hmm, that's odd. Perhaps try plugging a laptop directly into the building's Ethernet cable and then run a speed test. If that also shows 100mbps (or close to it), I agree that the router is probably the issue. Beyond that it's hard to know what to suggest - the length of Ethernet cable and the port it's plugged into in your house could also have an effect.
@@SmartHomePoint it is a 100 ft cord from home to building. I will test and then get a new router if needed. Thanx a ton for reply
@@SmartHomePoint just in case anyone wants to know. I bought a Netgear ac1000 nighthawk router and now my speeds up and down are 100 mbps the max my provider offers so it was the old modem/router from windstream.
Ah great, glad you got that resolved! The Nighthawk routers are good quality.
If I run an Ethernet cable between the two buildings how do you configure the two modems do they talk to each other? Is this advanced or simple? I appreciate your help
You can use an old router or a network switch (a switch is often the better option) and in 99% of cases it should be plug and play - it shouldn't require any extra config. In other words, it should be simple.
@@SmartHomePoint I need to use a router because everything in the second space is wireless! Phone, fire stick and Laptop!
Haha yes I know the feeling! So plugging the Ethernet cable into the router should be fine. Regarding it's WiFi, effectively you're creating a wireless access point. This may or may not need extra configuration within the router's admin panel. I did this in my garage (my Ring Indoor Cam connects to the router over WiFi) which I explain in this video plus the video's description: th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html
Great video. So I put ethernet cable to my outbuilding. So if I get a router and plug the outbuilding end one into it I'd have wifi out there? Also I'm using sky internet. I have an old bt internet box. Would that work?
Thanks! Yes that should work well, however the main thing to know is that the old BT router needs a bit of configuring first. This can vary per model, but I did this for my garage at th-cam.com/video/IDXneJVh91w/w-d-xo.html and the description on that video outlines the steps I needed to take for my particular BT box model.
@@SmartHomePoint oh alright thanks for the reply. I'll try it soon .
great info , can you go into a bit more detail on wireless power line adaptors??
Whilst I just have non-WiFi power line adapters, I do know of people with wireless ones that really like them, e.g. this TP-Link one: www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-WiFi-Extender/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=powerline+adapter+with+wifi&qid=1610267006&sprefix=powerline+adapter&sr=8-3
The main thing to know is that they still require being plugged into the wall sockets on each end, and also one end needs an Ethernet connection to the router (or a network switch). But then the other end will offer up a new WiFi network, making it more practical to work with on the other end.
Happy to answer any more questions you have on this approach though :)
Great info👍🏴
Diolch! Glad you liked it.
Thank you
No worries 🙂
Great video, thanks very much. Will the Powerline adapters always work or do they need to be connected from the main house supply in a specific way?
Thanks, glad you found it useful! The Powerline adapters should work as long as they're connected back to the same circuit board. I use Powerline adapters for my garage (connected to my living room) and they're completely separate circuits but they still work fine. Apparently the performance can be a bit reduced on different circuits, but they've been working fine for me (I have a Ring camera in my garage and there's no issues with this uploading full HD footage, for example).
@@SmartHomePoint thanks for the reply and awesome video
doesn't it reduce the power
I'm just getting started in IT so this is great info. Love the shirt 👍. Also appreciate a fellow Elon fan 😆
Thanks, glad you like the video and shirt 😆 And yes, Elon is awesome, it'll be interesting to see all his and his companies' progress over the next few years. 👍
Well explained YOUNG jEDI! Portland DJ Dan
Thanks 🤣
@@SmartHomePoint I DID find a remedy . . I ran an ethernet cable from my living room wifi tower to an Amped Wireless extender just outside my backdoor which then sent a direct-line-of-site signal to a repeater in my garage/office...then connected it to a small ethernet cable to my desktop computer and VOILA!
Ah awesome, glad it worked out well - that sounds a nice solution!
@@SmartHomePoint Well it worked for a day. Q: If I ran a 75 foot ethernet cable from our wifi hub out to my garage and directly into my computer, would the ditance degrade to quality of the signal?
75 foot should be absolutely fine. The usual limit is 300 ft, or slightly less (180 ft) for much higher gigabit speeds. If you're running it outdoors at points then CAT7 cable might be worth exploring as it has extra shielding, and will still be fine over 75 feet.
I live in a studio separate from the main house. And I have 9.3 mgbs and I can't play shit
It's definitely an annoyance. Tbh, I think that a good quality mesh WiFi system is the best approach currently, e.g. something like the Eero range.
So my husbands barn is about 400ft away from home. We bought this thing You plug in that supposed to extend. But it’s choppy sn doesn’t work all that well. We don’t want to pay for exta internet lol. Is women terms lol can You give me the best option. I had trouble following all the info cause most I’m clueless of what You are saying lol. If I was educated this would be the best hands down explanation
Hah no worries 🙂 Uhm based on the distance, the best/easiest option would be a TP-Link Powerline Adapter - assuming that the barn goes through the same breaker box (electric box) as your house. Then you just pop an Ethernet cable in at each end - one near your router in your house, and one near the Powerline Adapter in the barn. Let me know if it's not the same electric circuit/box though.
u are vvv gud
So if I get an extender I need a second one to have in my cabin to actually pick up the WiFi ? Is that what my issues been with it as I’ve attempted this before and couldn’t work it