How do you break in a bike? Do you send it straight to redline, or do you treat it like a delicate flower? Or do you buy used and make someone else do the hard work for you?
I was staring at the tachometer for my Beta 390 RR-S while breaking it in, trying to shift at the recommended max RPM. The trailtech voyager was set up for a 2 stroke by default so it was reading half the real RPM's. I bounced off the rev limiter for a few seconds. First oil change there were a few 1-2mm chunks of aluminum, but apparently that's normal for those bikes. Think I was trying to put heat cycles on it too, stopping for a whiel, starting then going about half throttle for a bit. Got over 100 hours on it now, I think over 3000 miles, but haven't done a compression nor leak down test.
i keep revs below half of the rpm range and no harsh accelerating or braking. once past the first inital 50 miles or so ill slowly increase the rpms until ive went through the whole servicing steps and hit the limiter
Motorcyclist online addressed this issue regarding breaking in the engine. They took two identical 125s. One they followed the break in protocol to the letter, the other they just railed it from go for a 1000 miles. Completely disassembled both engines and measured everything with calipers and micrometers, checked compression etc. No measurable difference!
@@stefantunea4712 lol I’m talking about about motors that can rev up to 16,000 rpm and I don’t know any new 125 4 stroke you can buy right on the market that revs that high.
I remember that test but I don’t remember the compression ratio. High CR means exponentially higher forces on all things. I’d just stick to manufacturer guidance tbh.
@@HifeMan most 125cc has redline at around 10k-12krpm range. So it is quite similar to some other sub 1 liter engine, except with only one tiny cylinder.
Love that Aprilia! That fat mid pipe is something to see. The finish is exquisite, the graphics as well. I want one... I've had many motorcycles since 1968, and for break in I always check the manufacturers recommendations, then go riding. The best way that I have used is a 10 hour over the mountains, 1100 kilometre ride from my home in Vancouver, to my family's home in Calgary. 1 sleep, an oil change, day with family, 1 more sleep, and ride back next day. Using a wide range of speeds in all the gears. It's a great way to spend the weekend.
@@freebehindbars8654 Nonsense, Ari Henning's method poses a problem. You screw up the test case, you screw up the results. Tons of assumptions made too. He's a mechanic, not an engineer.
@@freebehindbars8654I agree with all ari videos other than that, as a mechanical engineer who works in the automotive industry, breaking in is super important.
@@exothermal.sprocket All modern engines today are broken in from the factory and don't require anything from the rider to function correctly. All the braking period today is taking it easy just to see that all components are working and there is no factory defect. Some manufacturers, like BMW, will lock your RPM, so even if you want to, you cannot. Braking in "correctly" is the same old habit that needs to die along with warming your engine in idle for few minutes in order to proctect it.
Bought my scout brand new in 2020. Rode it home the night I bought it, and was told from a bunch of people "break it in how your gonna actually ride it" and I did just that. Didnt really romp to hard on it but I rode the crap out of it. I also went through the entire rev range multiple times. Since then, im 26000 miles and it is awesome. I beat as hard as I take care of it and it's beautiful.
I followed my Kawasaki Z900 break in to the book, yes it might have been alittle boring (1000 km under 4000 rpm) but the bike still runs great and strong after 5 + years and over 50.000 km later.. as statet in the video it is NOT just the motor that needs break in!!
It's such a cool opportunity Spite got with this Aprilia. Great video and thanks for mentioning things like brake and clutch break in, feel like a lot of TH-camrs skip this. I have seen way too many inexperienced reviewers complain about the clutch and brakes on a brand new bike with like 20 miles on the dash.
I try not to ride bikes that are that fresh on the channel anymore. The last one was the Mandello and I know from experience now that the Guzzi transmissions take a loooong time to wear in.
My new NC750x is in forits first service next Thursday. Will be around 650 miles ish. Its on 350 miles and I can feel it starting to come together. Also the time we have had to learn each other is there also. I mainly do UK A roads (non freeway) so up and down the revs and gears every journey.
I’m glad to see a video on this. Currently breaking in my MT09 SP and the first 75 to 100 miles I take it fairly easy and go up and down the gears and keep it below 7k rpm’s. After that I ride it like I’m going to because every master mechanic (one who builds engines and races them) told me to break it in how you’re going to ride it. Said the only important thing is to not get on the highway and cruise in top gear for 50 plus miles. I’ve always followed that advice and never had an issue with any of my bikes, from Honda to Yamaha to cf moto to Triumph and Kawasaki. Parallel twins, v twins, inline 4s and triples alike 😊
Breaking in your brand new motorcycle is a wise investment in your future. I just bought my new bike and I'm going to pick it up today. Your video just reminded me of something that I already knew. Thanks.
Spite, I'm a long time sub and followed you before... You are rocking it, bro! Thanks for another well produced piece. You entertain while you educate. From one brother to another I'm proud of you dude!
This video needs to be shared with manny at moto- million . He blew up his bmw s1k . And there is actually a few guys that has done the same . This is a very interesting and proper video on the importance of break-in . Thank you
@@KB-yj5xp I've heard a few horror stories, especially with M1RRs. What I think lots don't understand is that the higher performance an engine, the tighter the tolerances, the more important the break-in.
good advice i follow the same procedure more or less, one thing i think is important is to do a oil change early, before the first hundred miles just because i figure that is when most of the high spots will get rubbed off internally, then finish out your 600 and do another. right or wrong oil is fairly cheap insurance.
My method would be similar to yours Spite, get the engine up to operating temp, vary the load, gears, cornering etc. to allow everything to start bedding in. Once the engine is nice and warm, I'd put it in 3rd or 4th gear and gun it up to about 60% throttle and then let the engine overrun back to low revs but at a point where it can still pull from and then repeat the cycle about 8 times. I'd then bed the brakes in as per your method. I've used a similar method on all new cars I've had and none have used any oil - my view is that its important to have worked the engine in this manner within the first 500 miles to bed the rings in and achieve optimum performance. It's interesting to know that some manufacturers take their engines up to max revs on the dyno as part of the final test procedure before shipping the bike / car despite the fact that the owners manual specifies a measured amount of revs etc for 500-1000 miles!
I broke in my Eliminator by the book. It was perfect for me being a new rider to get used to the bike. Once I changed the oil, I felt more comfortable getting on the throttle.
Some good points. I,m running in a new Honda CB500X. Yep never lug the motor ,vary the revs and stomp the ol rear break to bed it in.. Short shifting also a good idea for some fun thru a bunch of twisties. Found it's usually around 3000 k before everything feels good and weirdly the fuel consumption gets better. I buy new Kawasaki's and Honda's and found them to be about the same in reliability and resale value. Decent dealer is a huge plus.
Thank you for this. Got a new Street Triple RS and was working on the break in. I am 350+ kms in. I shall follow some of your recommendations for mine.
I’ve not seen anyone mention the most important part of an engine break-in. The piston rings must be seated to the cylinder walls properly in the first 20-50 miles or so, before the cross-hatching wears off of the cylinders. Make sure that in this period you give the bike a good period of acceleration (not full throttle/redline, but I would suggest like 3/4 throttle pulls to about the same percentage of rpm’s a few times. Also, vary engine speed and gear selection, this is more for the transmission. Would also suggest the first oil change not be synthetic. In aircraft, we actually have to run/fly them for the first few hours in a very specific fashion to ensure the engine breaks in properly. This includes running the engine at 75% power for a couple hours to seat the piston rings. Edit: my advice is all anecdotal, so take it as you will, I’m only stating what I’ve done on the past with both cars and bikes. -15 year general aviation technician
One doesn't want the cross hatching to completely wear off the bores, but instead polished off the high points at the microscopic level by the rings to a point where only the micron scale of oil runs between the rings and the walls. That keeps compression (performance/mileage) high and temperatures maintained.
You pretty much covered everything, but I'm of the opinion that it's a good idea to keep varying the engine speed (rpm's) well beyond the break in period. I've seen more than 1 bike that has suffered a huge loss in power just from being ridden very conservatively over a number of years. It takes a fair bit longer, but it's just as easy to wear an engine into a performance groove as it is to mess up a break in period, and they both end with the same result.
Real question what do you think physically changes on a bike riden that way? Not doubting your anecdote, but besides a muffler being caked in carbon, I don't understand what might noticeably happen to a bike riden that way
@@Bugside The ones that I have seen wouldn't even rev high enough to perform an "Italian tuneup", so I never got far enough to buy one & open the engine to see what's going on. If I had to guess though, I'd expect to see premature wear and/or carbon build up on the valves, carbon build up on the cylinder heads, excessive wear and/or grooving on the piston rings and/or the cylinder walls, or a combination thereof. There's probably more going on as well, but I'm not a mechanic or metallurgical expert. What I do know though, is that an engine designed to run at a constant speed, such as in a generator, is very different to an engine used in a motorcycle. And that generator motor will run for a lot longer than the engine in a bike owned by someone with an extreme case of mechanical sympathy, who never revs the engine past 3,500 rpm.
@@ADingoTookMyDasco we call it in the automotive world clearing the pipes... every now and then its healthy to get all up on it and ask for 110% of that power to blow all the crap out the ass end...
Very nice. Small suggestion : when bedding in brake pads, don't hit standstill. Slow down to 5mph or so and then repeat. Brembo says this prevents any hot spots on the pads and prevent little chunks sticking to your rotors. Great video. And, man, enough cannot be said about the aprilia v4, in whatever form. My 2014 rsv4 factory makes me giggle every time I'm on her. It just never gets old. Beauty.
A good friend with a number of PHD's under his belt is a metallurgist who develops supper metals for an aerospace company. He told me new engines need to go through a number of heat treat cycles to season the metal. Since he told me this all my new bikes I bring the bike up to temp, let it cool down completely and do this a number of times in addition to all the things you mentioned. Seems to work well. I get longevity with virtually no oil consumption on my bikes. Thanks for the video!
I was easy on my 03 SV1000S until 500 miles, then I took it to a dragstrip for maybe 10 passes. Doing checks and oil change just before. It still runs great. A year after I bought mine my brother bought an identical bike. I rode his at 1000 miles and it felt like a 650 compared to my bike. These are all great tips that you shared.
Long ago, my friend and I each bought same model bike, same time, different colors, at a dealer. We saved some money buying 2. I took immediate delivery, broke my bike in. Two months later he gets his, did not break it in to keep up with me racing off the line. Result: 6 months later there was a noticeable difference in power bands. The break in bike had all kinds of torque and power on start. His bike, (not broken in) the power band kicked in after 4k rpm. When we raced, my bike jumped out in front and held the lead for a time, his bike caught up later for us to both finish with the same gear top speed. Without a reference, a rider would not know the difference thinking this is just how a particular bike rides...
This Tuono is beautiful, such a work of art. Your videos are amazing annd very informative, reminds me a lot of times when my Dad used to give me advice.
I test rode a brand new Daytona 660, I think it had 60 miles or something. Sales guy said don't even worry about it, just ride it. So either their not concerned with their demo biking turning out perfect or really think it just doesn't much matter. I am planning on buying one and it will be the first brand new vehicle of any type I've ever owned, so I'll probably go pretty easy on it and try to follow the break in advice just because.
When I bought my brand new hayabusa back in 2011, the break in period was 1500km and below 7000rpm and I was told not to hold at the same rpm for long. I did just that and had no issues
I bought an FJ12 in the early 90s. It had 100 or so miles on it so was a demo bike. It was a good price and once it had a v&h pipe on it sounded great. For the first few hundred miles I was running it in but it just didn't feel right. The gear box was horrible, clunky and occasionally crunchy, also the top end sounded like the valves needed adjusting. It went back to Yamaha and the dealer several times for checking over. They told me it's just how it is. I sold it after a year or so. I think it was the initial hundred miles that ruined it and that's why it was for sale. So yes running an engine in is really important.
2 heat cycles followed by 10 miles of quarter throttle opening but let the engine rev, 10 miles of half throttle opening letting the engine rev, 10 miles of three quarter throttle opening letting the engine rev, change the oil, re torque the head bolts and its good to go. Twisty roads are best for this, constant speed changes.
Just got a brand new Indian Scout Rogue. Brakes and clutch were stiff. Where I live there’s a lot of stop and go, going from gear 1 to 5 and back in a mile or so for several miles. Ease into the throttle, never going more than half throttle for the first 2-300 miles.
QUESTION: The brand APRILIA is new to me, just a couple of years ago i've started hearing the Aprilia brand, I did research and is as old as Ducati, Was it that Aprilia was not advertised here in USA?
I did 1 heat cycle on my built drz, then ride using 3/4 throttle to accelerate to 4k and engine brake. Repeat in 1000rpm increments to redline, then ride it like you stole it. Worled good for seating the rings on the new engine. It was built with big bore, stroker, cams, ported, fcr41, pipe and all new bearings in the transmission with new countershaft.
I broke my 21 Road Glide Special according to the manufacturers recommendations. It took me one day of riding. It also gave me a chance to get used to the bike. I don’t see what the big issue is that everyone has with it
I think the big takeaway here? Whatever your views on break in methods, that first ride is crucial to be "by the book" because of the full range of brand new stuff. You make really good points about beake pads, tires, suspension components - all very crucial stuff thats wholly unrelated to the engine but that needs some care.
a video just in time! I just bought a brand new GSX-S1000GX :3 I've read the entire manual back to back a few times now and gonna follow the Suzuki instructions. While my previous 2 bikes and i just rode in a "moderate" fashion, which was enough :3 but those were Hondas :P
I broke in my Multistrada 950 S by the book (6000 rpm till 600 miles, 7000 rpm till 1600 miles). Many gear changes and varying revs. Hopefully enough heat cycles (didn't really think about them back then). Things I noticed: Oil consumption was noticeable between second and third oil change (which didn't suprise me, because according to the Ducati forums, some consumption is normal). However, since the third oil change, there's almost no oil consumption at all, which makes me quite happy.
I know it’s funny to ask but how long should the breaking period last? Like can we break it in a single day ? Or there is a specific period we should do ? 😅
With what is effectively digital performance leveling the primary advantage of proper break in is going to be in reliability and longevity. Both are important but not something you can judge by "feel". My latest bike is a Chinese knock off of a Honda CG125 only a little larger. (150 cc). It's basically a bite size piece of raw motorcycle. Stone axe simple, and machined to roughly the same tolerances, the break in has been drastic and extended. At 5,000 km the performance has stabilized to a degree where I'm willing to address some minor issues that aren't going to resolve on their own.
0:02 It’s not about seating the piston rings? Let’s see what this guy has to say.. 3:06 great video. Getting straight to the meat within the first couple minutes 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
As GasGas owners always mention, unless they have unicorn pre-KTM models, is that the chassis needs time to break in. My CT-70 from 1984 didn't come with instructions. I just rode it. Then the Yamaha, the Husky, and Honda's of my youth. I cannot complain of a single problem from any of that, but I did change the "break in oil" earlier then recommended. My new Husky 401, brought home today, had the same recommendation from my dealer. I guess, the real recommendation is "don't abuse it at the begging" is fair and safe. Mechanical sympathy.
I do 4-5 heat cycles of getting the engine hot. Ride it like a normal commuter for 50 miles then change out the oil. From that point I’m riding like I would for the life of the bike until 600 miles where I change the oil again. At that point, it’s a free for all and i ride it like I stole it. Never had oil burning, valves issues or anything else go wrong doing it this way and always got strong dyno numbers when I get bikes tuned.
That’s exactly how to do it. Surprised me how many people don’t do a change 50-100 miles in. You don’t want those metal shavings in there for the rest of the break in!
Did you sprinkle fairy dust on the bike at exactly 11.59pm each night and clap your heels together 3 times whilst rubbing your tummy till it's reached 600 miles too? Jog on with that utter nonsense. As if you'd have noticed any difference going by what the manufacturer recommendeds.
I always follow the break-in recommendations, and as you suggested, I always include plenty of deceleration via engine braking Maybe it's not as important as the owner's manual says it is, but it doesn't hurt and why risk it?
Ok and now for a cvt scooter like the BV400, where you have no control over engine rpm or the transmission ratio. About shifting up and down, I tend to do both in equal measure.
Not trying to grab attention but No joke I test drove a motorcycle from Harley yesterday with 10 miles on it yesterday and I knew in the back of my head that there is a 500 mile brake in period…But they still let me test ride it, and I definitely tested it well.
Triumphs come with Castrol 10w50 semi synthetic from the dealer. I ran my '22 Speed Twin under the recommended break in procedure for two 30 minute rides with a 30 minute cool down period in between. Then I dropped the semi synthetic Castrol it came with, for fully synthetic Bel-ray 10w50 Big Twin oil. This oil is specially formulated for large displacement air cooled Harley Davidson engines. Its blended with an additive package to survive the extreme heat and abuse those engines put on oils. After changing to the fully synthetic Bel-ray with a fresh filter. I ran the bike like I would normally ride it. Making sure not to over rev the engine, and keeping it at least 500rpm under redline at all times. At the normal 600mi. first oil change interval. I changed it again, using the same oil and filter types. I've yet to redline the engine, and had it roiling at close to 130mph on multiple occasions. Thats where the factory ecu tune will limit the bikes top speed. This year I'll be loading a custom tune into the bikes ECU to take advantage of all the mods I've done already. Can't wait to finally be a given 'er all she's got capt'n. Running the crappy semi synthetic oils they come with for 600 miles is totally unnecessary. 2 good heat cycle rides is all most bikes need. Then get that crap outta there!
New rider with a new bike, and a question here. I noticed you're a bigger guy like me, and I got myself a Honda CB300R as my first bike. The stock mirrors are pretty terrible for my height and how I sit on the bike. Do you have any recommendations for new mirrors for a guy that is about 6'5? I don't feel comfortable taking my bike commuting to work and back before I fix a couple of these smaller issues that affect my actual safety.
ive been breakin in my zx6r by the book (mostly) but turned off the shift light cause that got annoying fast Ill turn it back on after 600 mile oil change.
The only thing about breaking in that i have heard repeatedly and saw done on race engines is to not keep the engine rpms steady, accelerate, slow down. Using the rev range. Which comicaly is the opposite of what most people will do trying to break engine in "gently" just essentially iddling around never getting on the gas.
“How I break in a motorcycle.” The guy that only has old bikes. Ari Henning had a video on Busting the Myth of motorcycle breaking in. Took two different approaches, by the book and Balls Out. Then tore the motor down after… Ride it like you’ll ride it. Fresh builds need heat cycles to set rings.
The only problem with that video, and he says this at the end, is the motor he used was in a mild state of tune. This absolutely is not. Breaking this in hard could have detrimental effects to the long term health.
@@spitescorner My father/family has owned a machine and automotive shop for over 30 years. It’s about heat cycles, not rpm. Heat cycle to set rings, change the oil and operate like you intend on using it. Everything from commuter cars to ethanol dirt track modifieds. Only thing that happens during that time are the rings. Low rpm’s is the last thing you want. Like anything mechanical, it’s about preventative maintenance.
@@spitescorner Apologize if I came across negative. Just talk to some old head engine builders. They see their work and have years of case study to look back on.
Just bought an RSV4, didnt ride on the road at all to break it in. Went on track straight away and did all breaking in on track. Which for me was riding it normally. It was software limited to certain rpms at different stages and it gradually kept unlocking more and more rpm. Other guys i talked to, tried gentle breaking in with some of their bikes, other bikes breaking in on track and zero difference. It seems that it is mainly to force people to take it easy on a new bike they are not used to. You want the customer base to survive 😂
Fun fact: Aprilia tracks your top speed. If you run into issues and the techs notice you topped it out before 600ish miles, they could use it against you to void your warranty claims, even if that shouldn't technically hurt the engine as long as it wasn't pinned at WOT the entire ride.
Yeah💪 Hope to see you on a Trackhouse colored Aprilia 😜 About the transmission on an Aprilia, (it might be a prototype in Motogp) but Viñales is still figuring out how to properly shift since Aprilia is about the sound of the motor how you shift gears😅
did you see ridesmart is partnering with Aprillia to do rental bikes at COTA? Bikes will be set up with data logging and all the race bits :D hope to see you at another trackday soon!
Thought you were moving into 'breaking motorcycles' when I saw the title as in stripping for parts and selling them rather than 'breaking-in' a motorcycle as in driving a particular way for a particular period of time until parts are all worn together and work better. I never had to do this because I never had a new bike. I do go easy for about 50miles while breaking-in new brake pads and tyres though.
Being about as tall as you and having taken a serious interest in this Tuono model, I'm curious what options you would recommend for taller handlebars and lower footpegs?
I think of riding a brand new bike like using one’s own body that is sore all over from physical exercise. You go for a gentle walk. Gentle stretches. Certainly nothing more than a slow run. Take a break, rest. Go for another walk. Concentrate on moving in a fluid motion. Whatever the human equivalent is to lugging, definitely don’t do that. The only exception that could apply is suspension. New Stiff suspension will benefit from a good massage 💆. Nothing brutal, but working it appropriately for the intended purpose is the bike will help bring supple forth for you.
Most Japanese manufactures break in their motors AT the factory, drain the oil, and then push them out to the market...Plainly can be seen on TH-cam if you look it up...When I tell you they break the motors in HARD to set the rings please find the videos and watch them...The rest of the parts you stated are definitely important to do...
That's not breaking in the engines AT ALL. They test the engines are fully functioning and in good order to be released onto the public highways. They have to do this. Purely from a safety standpoint and most probably a legal one. People need to stop spreading this misinformation over the internet.
The rings MUST be seated properly or the bike will consume oil and have poor compression its whole life, shouldn’t baby an engine too much especially early on. If the factory gives it the beans before it leaves the factory all the better
If you look at the BMW factory video- they run those bikes up to temperature and then hammer them on a dyno !!! But gearboxes and cycle parts do need to be broken in…. Me I do pretty much what you prrscribe with the odd pull through the rev’s in a low ish gear just to stretch those rods a little and make sure the rings are using all of the motors stroke…. Maybe you should get a couple or three small bikes and test the theory’s …?????
As a mechanical engineer the short answer SHOULD be no. Anything with specs and tolerances should be capable from first start. That said…as a heavy equipment operator, I’ve seen that most spec parts when put together to form a moving, working (creating energy) whole, usually experience heat for the first time as a combined whole, motion, and stress. Therefore, running said equipment on a low stress low heat cycle before “working” it to maximum limits, helps mesh together parts with sharp edges, burrs from machining etc. I like using the rifle barrel in this instance because most rifle manufacturers in USA (laws in USA forbid weapons from outside of USA to be sold in USA…hence why sig sauer and glock etc have American plants). The manufacturer assembles and test fires each rifle before shipping it out to sale. 1 shot. Yes it works but hasn’t gone through a “normal usage” heat cycle yet. And the break in is five, 1 round firings with a cleaning after each…5 2 round firings with cleaning after each set. And 5 five round firings with cleaning between sets. And every time I’ve done this “break in” cycle, I’ve had extremely accurate results. Been told many times it’s not necessary…and I’m sure it isn’t for necessary for operation…but side by side with 2 barrels sequentially off production line, 1 broken in properly and 1 not….will have difference in accuracy at the bare minimum….and a “low mileage” death at an extreme. And guns are no where near the heats and tolerances of a combustion engine. You know what make “gun oil” so expensive? The word “gun”.
Ari also tested a CBR500 motor, iirc. Not an 1077cc V4 that's basically race ready. Not hating, just saying not every motor is as forgiving as a Honda.
Avoid highways if possible, if not, do what Spite do - don't rev beyond needed and vary in RPMs as much as you safely can, use engine braking as much as it's possible. As for bedding in break pads, dont stop to 0 mph, let wheels (disc rotors) spin even a little after breaking (same goes to beading in new pads on used motorcycle)
On a sub 30 hp motorcycle, it's unreasonable to keep the rpms below 6k like the manual recommendeds. Everyone on the road will want to run you over. The max speed on my KLX300SM is about 90 mph down hill. If I don't rev it all the way, people will run me over. While breaking it in, I basically just rode it how one would as a commuter. It seems to be doing just fine.
Hey man, been following your videos and i love you above the yammie channel. I have a question though are you open to chat? Or do you respond to messages? Thanks and keep this quality videos!
There's a discord community as part of the patreon link in the description. I'm there all the time. I usually don't respond to Instagram DMs. I also have an email in the about page for business inquiries.
Do the break in by the book, I have an 07 R1 with 63,000 miles on the motor, which has never been rebuilt. Valve check every 10,000, no synthetic oils until it reached 7,500, oil service as often as I can………. Let the engine warm to full fans on before you ride will make parts last.
Royal Enfield Classic 350 max 45mph for first 300 miles, max 50mph till 1200 miles. I'm at 370 miles, had first 300 miles tappet adjust and oil change done. I'm not strict to the rules but am easy going and vary speed as much as practical.
There are lots of Royal Enfields 2nd hand with only a few hundred miles on them for £1200 less than new. But who knows how they've been treated in the break-in?
You know how I break in a new bike? I'll tell you my guaranteed-never-fails secret... I follow the manufacturers guideline in the owners manual. There, I've let slip the the biggest secret in motorcycling! Of course you could be like that other channel that ignored the manufacturers advice and blew up their $35K bike within a hundred miles because "they knew better" than the manual how to run it in. And yet they were incredulous at the response of the manufacturer who told them to f'koff when they asked for a warranty repair, because they could see the owner didn't follow the break in instructions (that ECU records all and will snitch on you). In summary: You run it in and service by the book if you want to keep that warranty period valid.
Being the fact i have only broken in offroad machines every fresh build gets broken in the same way. 1. Let it warm up 2. Bed the pads in 3. Ride it like i would on race day. Motors see the rev limiter with less than 30 minutes on them.
At the triumph factory for testing they put oil in the first bike run up the rpms, go through all the gears, dump the oil and put the same oil in the next three bikes to perform the testing. only on the fifth bike do they start testing with new oil.
How do you break in a bike? Do you send it straight to redline, or do you treat it like a delicate flower? Or do you buy used and make someone else do the hard work for you?
I was staring at the tachometer for my Beta 390 RR-S while breaking it in, trying to shift at the recommended max RPM. The trailtech voyager was set up for a 2 stroke by default so it was reading half the real RPM's. I bounced off the rev limiter for a few seconds. First oil change there were a few 1-2mm chunks of aluminum, but apparently that's normal for those bikes. Think I was trying to put heat cycles on it too, stopping for a whiel, starting then going about half throttle for a bit. Got over 100 hours on it now, I think over 3000 miles, but haven't done a compression nor leak down test.
I go 1,000 miles before really getting after it
I don't sweat it. I ride it how I normally ride for the most part and just don't redline it.
I kept the throttle moving, without going hard acceleration. Seems to have worked, I've had zero oil consumption
i keep revs below half of the rpm range and no harsh accelerating or braking. once past the first inital 50 miles or so ill slowly increase the rpms until ive went through the whole servicing steps and hit the limiter
To be honestly honest, I like your videos way more than yaminoob. Great job
I can't stand that guy! He's an arrogant narcissist. I refuse to watch any of his videos anymore.
How about if you were dishonestly honest?
Yammie who ?
@@SludgedB that means I'm semi lying 🤥 😆
Yeah enjoying watching a dude sitting on a bike waving his hands around in traffic alone. Very creative content right there.
This video is sooo satisfying. It's really refreshing to see someone show mechanical empathy where it's needed
Motorcyclist online addressed this issue regarding breaking in the engine. They took two identical 125s. One they followed the break in protocol to the letter, the other they just railed it from go for a 1000 miles. Completely disassembled both engines and measured everything with calipers and micrometers, checked compression etc. No measurable difference!
I feel like a much bigger engine and way higher rev ceiling would be different from breaking in an 125cc motor.
@@HifeMan I guess the bigger the engine the less important is the break in period. And a 125 does NOT have less rev range.
@@stefantunea4712 lol I’m talking about about motors that can rev up to 16,000 rpm and I don’t know any new 125 4 stroke you can buy right on the market that revs that high.
I remember that test but I don’t remember the compression ratio. High CR means exponentially higher forces on all things. I’d just stick to manufacturer guidance tbh.
@@HifeMan most 125cc has redline at around 10k-12krpm range. So it is quite similar to some other sub 1 liter engine, except with only one tiny cylinder.
Love that Aprilia! That fat mid pipe is something to see. The finish is exquisite, the graphics as well. I want one... I've had many motorcycles since 1968, and for break in I always check the manufacturers recommendations, then go riding. The best way that I have used is a 10 hour over the mountains, 1100 kilometre ride from my home in Vancouver, to my family's home in Calgary. 1 sleep, an oil change, day with family, 1 more sleep, and ride back next day. Using a wide range of speeds in all the gears. It's a great way to spend the weekend.
Braking in a motorcycle is like sports nutrition. Doing it great can’t exactly make your bike better, but doing it poorly can absolutely ruin it.
Nonsense. Ride it however you want, doesn’t matter. Ask Ari Henning. He made a video 5 years ago about this exact topic.
@@freebehindbars8654 Nonsense, Ari Henning's method poses a problem. You screw up the test case, you screw up the results. Tons of assumptions made too. He's a mechanic, not an engineer.
@@freebehindbars8654I agree with all ari videos other than that, as a mechanical engineer who works in the automotive industry, breaking in is super important.
@@exothermal.sprocket
All modern engines today are broken in from the factory and don't require anything from the rider to function correctly. All the braking period today is taking it easy just to see that all components are working and there is no factory defect. Some manufacturers, like BMW, will lock your RPM, so even if you want to, you cannot.
Braking in "correctly" is the same old habit that needs to die along with warming your engine in idle for few minutes in order to proctect it.
How could you ruin it during the breaking in?
Bought my scout brand new in 2020. Rode it home the night I bought it, and was told from a bunch of people "break it in how your gonna actually ride it" and I did just that. Didnt really romp to hard on it but I rode the crap out of it. I also went through the entire rev range multiple times. Since then, im 26000 miles and it is awesome. I beat as hard as I take care of it and it's beautiful.
as someone who just bought a 2023 scout, this makes me happy
@@jonathanlatcham1626 they are very reliable.
Did the same on my 2022 Scout.
Outside of a bad coding job from the factory, I've had zero issues in my 10k miles.
@@Lordturisas1 good to hear!
I followed my Kawasaki Z900 break in to the book, yes it might have been alittle boring (1000 km under 4000 rpm) but the bike still runs great and strong after 5 + years and over 50.000 km later.. as statet in the video it is NOT just the motor that needs break in!!
It's such a cool opportunity Spite got with this Aprilia.
Great video and thanks for mentioning things like brake and clutch break in, feel like a lot of TH-camrs skip this. I have seen way too many inexperienced reviewers complain about the clutch and brakes on a brand new bike with like 20 miles on the dash.
I try not to ride bikes that are that fresh on the channel anymore. The last one was the Mandello and I know from experience now that the Guzzi transmissions take a loooong time to wear in.
My new NC750x is in forits first service next Thursday. Will be around 650 miles ish. Its on 350 miles and I can feel it starting to come together. Also the time we have had to learn each other is there also. I mainly do UK A roads (non freeway) so up and down the revs and gears every journey.
I’m glad to see a video on this. Currently breaking in my MT09 SP and the first 75 to 100 miles I take it fairly easy and go up and down the gears and keep it below 7k rpm’s. After that I ride it like I’m going to because every master mechanic (one who builds engines and races them) told me to break it in how you’re going to ride it. Said the only important thing is to not get on the highway and cruise in top gear for 50 plus miles. I’ve always followed that advice and never had an issue with any of my bikes, from Honda to Yamaha to cf moto to Triumph and Kawasaki. Parallel twins, v twins, inline 4s and triples alike 😊
Breaking in your brand new motorcycle is a wise investment in your future. I just bought my new bike and I'm going to pick it up today. Your video just reminded me of something that I already knew. Thanks.
Spite, I'm a long time sub and followed you before...
You are rocking it, bro! Thanks for another well produced piece.
You entertain while you educate.
From one brother to another I'm proud of you dude!
This video needs to be shared with manny at moto- million . He blew up his bmw s1k .
And there is actually a few guys that has done the same . This is a very interesting and proper video on the importance of break-in . Thank you
I've been hearing people around the track for years saying the bmw engines are grenades, I don't think it was Manny who blew it up
@@KB-yj5xp I've heard a few horror stories, especially with M1RRs. What I think lots don't understand is that the higher performance an engine, the tighter the tolerances, the more important the break-in.
good advice i follow the same procedure more or less, one thing i think is important is to do a oil change early, before the first hundred miles just because i figure that is when most of the high spots will get rubbed off internally, then finish out your 600 and do another. right or wrong oil is fairly cheap insurance.
My method would be similar to yours Spite, get the engine up to operating temp, vary the load, gears, cornering etc. to allow everything to start bedding in. Once the engine is nice and warm, I'd put it in 3rd or 4th gear and gun it up to about 60% throttle and then let the engine overrun back to low revs but at a point where it can still pull from and then repeat the cycle about 8 times. I'd then bed the brakes in as per your method. I've used a similar method on all new cars I've had and none have used any oil - my view is that its important to have worked the engine in this manner within the first 500 miles to bed the rings in and achieve optimum performance. It's interesting to know that some manufacturers take their engines up to max revs on the dyno as part of the final test procedure before shipping the bike / car despite the fact that the owners manual specifies a measured amount of revs etc for 500-1000 miles!
I broke in my Eliminator by the book. It was perfect for me being a new rider to get used to the bike. Once I changed the oil, I felt more comfortable getting on the throttle.
8:05 lol as a dirtbike rider, hearing about slippy tires I was already thinking of counterbalancing right before you mentioned it
Some good points. I,m running in a new Honda CB500X. Yep never lug the motor ,vary the revs and stomp the ol rear break to bed it in.. Short shifting also a good idea for some fun thru a bunch of twisties. Found it's usually around 3000 k before everything feels good and weirdly the fuel consumption gets better. I buy new Kawasaki's and Honda's and found them to be about the same in reliability and resale value. Decent dealer is a huge plus.
Thank you for this. Got a new Street Triple RS and was working on the break in. I am 350+ kms in. I shall follow some of your recommendations for mine.
Varying speeds is the important. Piston rings need frequent downshifts to set in especially first 100 miles.
I’ve not seen anyone mention the most important part of an engine break-in. The piston rings must be seated to the cylinder walls properly in the first 20-50 miles or so, before the cross-hatching wears off of the cylinders. Make sure that in this period you give the bike a good period of acceleration (not full throttle/redline, but I would suggest like 3/4 throttle pulls to about the same percentage of rpm’s a few times. Also, vary engine speed and gear selection, this is more for the transmission. Would also suggest the first oil change not be synthetic.
In aircraft, we actually have to run/fly them for the first few hours in a very specific fashion to ensure the engine breaks in properly. This includes running the engine at 75% power for a couple hours to seat the piston rings.
Edit: my advice is all anecdotal, so take it as you will, I’m only stating what I’ve done on the past with both cars and bikes.
-15 year general aviation technician
The rings don’t fully expand under 3/4 throttle.
@@Papparratzitell that to Textron Lycoming I suppose
One doesn't want the cross hatching to completely wear off the bores, but instead polished off the high points at the microscopic level by the rings to a point where only the micron scale of oil runs between the rings and the walls. That keeps compression (performance/mileage) high and temperatures maintained.
You pretty much covered everything, but I'm of the opinion that it's a good idea to keep varying the engine speed (rpm's) well beyond the break in period.
I've seen more than 1 bike that has suffered a huge loss in power just from being ridden very conservatively over a number of years. It takes a fair bit longer, but it's just as easy to wear an engine into a performance groove as it is to mess up a break in period, and they both end with the same result.
Real question what do you think physically changes on a bike riden that way? Not doubting your anecdote, but besides a muffler being caked in carbon, I don't understand what might noticeably happen to a bike riden that way
@@Bugside The ones that I have seen wouldn't even rev high enough to perform an "Italian tuneup", so I never got far enough to buy one & open the engine to see what's going on.
If I had to guess though, I'd expect to see premature wear and/or carbon build up on the valves, carbon build up on the cylinder heads, excessive wear and/or grooving on the piston rings and/or the cylinder walls, or a combination thereof. There's probably more going on as well, but I'm not a mechanic or metallurgical expert. What I do know though, is that an engine designed to run at a constant speed, such as in a generator, is very different to an engine used in a motorcycle. And that generator motor will run for a lot longer than the engine in a bike owned by someone with an extreme case of mechanical sympathy, who never revs the engine past 3,500 rpm.
@@ADingoTookMyDasco we call it in the automotive world clearing the pipes... every now and then its healthy to get all up on it and ask for 110% of that power to blow all the crap out the ass end...
Great video, Spite. Really hits alot of new details for us amateur riders
Very nice. Small suggestion : when bedding in brake pads, don't hit standstill. Slow down to 5mph or so and then repeat. Brembo says this prevents any hot spots on the pads and prevent little chunks sticking to your rotors. Great video. And, man, enough cannot be said about the aprilia v4, in whatever form. My 2014 rsv4 factory makes me giggle every time I'm on her. It just never gets old. Beauty.
0:41 So you’re telling me you DON’T have $26k+ to spend on a single video? What a disappointment…
/s
A good friend with a number of PHD's under his belt is a metallurgist who develops supper metals for an aerospace company. He told me new engines need to go through a number of heat treat cycles to season the metal. Since he told me this all my new bikes I bring the bike up to temp, let it cool down completely and do this a number of times in addition to all the things you mentioned. Seems to work well. I get longevity with virtually no oil consumption on my bikes. Thanks for the video!
Very informative and responsible journalism spite! Keep it up!
I was easy on my 03 SV1000S until 500 miles, then I took it to a dragstrip for maybe 10 passes. Doing checks and oil change just before. It still runs great. A year after I bought mine my brother bought an identical bike. I rode his at 1000 miles and it felt like a 650 compared to my bike. These are all great tips that you shared.
I’m hooked to your videos right after this video. Great info and probably the best motorcycle channel.🎉
Long ago, my friend and I each bought same model bike, same time, different colors, at a dealer. We saved some money buying 2. I took immediate delivery, broke my bike in. Two months later he gets his, did not break it in to keep up with me racing off the line. Result: 6 months later there was a noticeable difference in power bands. The break in bike had all kinds of torque and power on start. His bike, (not broken in) the power band kicked in after 4k rpm. When we raced, my bike jumped out in front and held the lead for a time, his bike caught up later for us to both finish with the same gear top speed. Without a reference, a rider would not know the difference thinking this is just how a particular bike rides...
This Tuono is beautiful, such a work of art.
Your videos are amazing annd very informative, reminds me a lot of times when my Dad used to give me advice.
It's one of the best looking bikes I've seen in a hot minute. And thanks! I really appreciate it.
So this is not about stealing a motorcycle?
Lol, nah, all you need for that is a truck and a screwdriver.
For legal reasons, this comment is a joke.
I tried to break in my Triumph according to the pie chart sticker but i rode it home 265 miles one way 😂
680 miles home with my Ninja 250 in 2008. ;)
Lol that's awesome
Only rode 120 to bring home brand new Super Tenere in 2018.
Rode my brand spanking new 2007 Daytona home under the rain while using the Motoman break-in method, lol.
I test rode a brand new Daytona 660, I think it had 60 miles or something. Sales guy said don't even worry about it, just ride it. So either their not concerned with their demo biking turning out perfect or really think it just doesn't much matter. I am planning on buying one and it will be the first brand new vehicle of any type I've ever owned, so I'll probably go pretty easy on it and try to follow the break in advice just because.
When I bought my brand new hayabusa back in 2011, the break in period was 1500km and below 7000rpm and I was told not to hold at the same rpm for long.
I did just that and had no issues
I bought an FJ12 in the early 90s. It had 100 or so miles on it so was a demo bike. It was a good price and once it had a v&h pipe on it sounded great. For the first few hundred miles I was running it in but it just didn't feel right. The gear box was horrible, clunky and occasionally crunchy, also the top end sounded like the valves needed adjusting. It went back to Yamaha and the dealer several times for checking over. They told me it's just how it is. I sold it after a year or so. I think it was the initial hundred miles that ruined it and that's why it was for sale. So yes running an engine in is really important.
2 heat cycles followed by 10 miles of quarter throttle opening but let the engine rev, 10 miles of half throttle opening letting the engine rev, 10 miles of three quarter throttle opening letting the engine rev, change the oil, re torque the head bolts and its good to go. Twisty roads are best for this, constant speed changes.
Just got a brand new Indian Scout Rogue. Brakes and clutch were stiff. Where I live there’s a lot of stop and go, going from gear 1 to 5 and back in a mile or so for several miles. Ease into the throttle, never going more than half throttle for the first 2-300 miles.
QUESTION: The brand APRILIA is new to me, just a couple of years ago i've started hearing the Aprilia brand, I did research and is as old as Ducati, Was it that Aprilia was not advertised here in USA?
The V4 is such a good sounding engine. Like this model and config of Aprillia the most.
I did 1 heat cycle on my built drz, then ride using 3/4 throttle to accelerate to 4k and engine brake. Repeat in 1000rpm increments to redline, then ride it like you stole it. Worled good for seating the rings on the new engine. It was built with big bore, stroker, cams, ported, fcr41, pipe and all new bearings in the transmission with new countershaft.
Love the video. Your comments on braking improvement lead me to ask for a video specifically about bedding in brakes.
I think I covered it a while back, but I'm happy to go over it again. It would be a good video.
Or, let me know the name of that video - I’ll check it out. Thx
I broke my 21 Road Glide Special according to the manufacturers recommendations. It took me one day of riding. It also gave me a chance to get used to the bike. I don’t see what the big issue is that everyone has with it
I broke in my FTR by the books and it has been a great bike.
I think the big takeaway here? Whatever your views on break in methods, that first ride is crucial to be "by the book" because of the full range of brand new stuff.
You make really good points about beake pads, tires, suspension components - all very crucial stuff thats wholly unrelated to the engine but that needs some care.
a video just in time! I just bought a brand new GSX-S1000GX :3 I've read the entire manual back to back a few times now and gonna follow the Suzuki instructions. While my previous 2 bikes and i just rode in a "moderate" fashion, which was enough :3 but those were Hondas :P
Well done Spite 😎👍
Love that Tuono 🥰
I broke in my Multistrada 950 S by the book (6000 rpm till 600 miles, 7000 rpm till 1600 miles). Many gear changes and varying revs. Hopefully enough heat cycles (didn't really think about them back then). Things I noticed: Oil consumption was noticeable between second and third oil change (which didn't suprise me, because according to the Ducati forums, some consumption is normal). However, since the third oil change, there's almost no oil consumption at all, which makes me quite happy.
"Literally EVERYTHING on your bike needs to be broken in." Don't forget to break in your blinkers and mirrors while you're at it.
I know it’s funny to ask but how long should the breaking period last? Like can we break it in a single day ? Or there is a specific period we should do ? 😅
With what is effectively digital performance leveling the primary advantage of proper break in is going to be in reliability and longevity. Both are important but not something you can judge by "feel". My latest bike is a Chinese knock off of a Honda CG125 only a little larger. (150 cc). It's basically a bite size piece of raw motorcycle. Stone axe simple, and machined to roughly the same tolerances, the break in has been drastic and extended. At 5,000 km the performance has stabilized to a degree where I'm willing to address some minor issues that aren't going to resolve on their own.
0:02 It’s not about seating the piston rings? Let’s see what this guy has to say..
3:06 great video. Getting straight to the meat within the first couple minutes 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
As GasGas owners always mention, unless they have unicorn pre-KTM models, is that the chassis needs time to break in. My CT-70 from 1984 didn't come with instructions. I just rode it. Then the Yamaha, the Husky, and Honda's of my youth. I cannot complain of a single problem from any of that, but I did change the "break in oil" earlier then recommended. My new Husky 401, brought home today, had the same recommendation from my dealer. I guess, the real recommendation is "don't abuse it at the begging" is fair and safe. Mechanical sympathy.
Use a tire/rubber cleaner (adams polishes etc) and a stiff bristle brush on brand new tires to get rid of the mold release agent that is present
I do 4-5 heat cycles of getting the engine hot. Ride it like a normal commuter for 50 miles then change out the oil. From that point I’m riding like I would for the life of the bike until 600 miles where I change the oil again. At that point, it’s a free for all and i ride it like I stole it. Never had oil burning, valves issues or anything else go wrong doing it this way and always got strong dyno numbers when I get bikes tuned.
That’s exactly how to do it. Surprised me how many people don’t do a change 50-100 miles in. You don’t want those metal shavings in there for the rest of the break in!
Did you sprinkle fairy dust on the bike at exactly 11.59pm each night and clap your heels together 3 times whilst rubbing your tummy till it's reached 600 miles too? Jog on with that utter nonsense. As if you'd have noticed any difference going by what the manufacturer recommendeds.
Good advise 👌
I always follow the break-in recommendations, and as you suggested, I always include plenty of deceleration via engine braking
Maybe it's not as important as the owner's manual says it is, but it doesn't hurt and why risk it?
I had a friend who used to redline a bike once in break ins.I don't know if it had any benefits but he swore by it.
Ok and now for a cvt scooter like the BV400, where you have no control over engine rpm or the transmission ratio. About shifting up and down, I tend to do both in equal measure.
Being poor, I don't have to deal with motorcycle break in.
Not trying to grab attention but No joke I test drove a motorcycle from Harley yesterday with 10 miles on it yesterday and I knew in the back of my head that there is a 500 mile brake in period…But they still let me test ride it, and I definitely tested it well.
LOVE the sound on those v4s! Not much different from your break in and mine.
It's GLORIOUS
Triumphs come with Castrol 10w50 semi synthetic from the dealer. I ran my '22 Speed Twin under the recommended break in procedure for two 30 minute rides with a 30 minute cool down period in between. Then I dropped the semi synthetic Castrol it came with, for fully synthetic Bel-ray 10w50 Big Twin oil. This oil is specially formulated for large displacement air cooled Harley Davidson engines. Its blended with an additive package to survive the extreme heat and abuse those engines put on oils. After changing to the fully synthetic Bel-ray with a fresh filter. I ran the bike like I would normally ride it. Making sure not to over rev the engine, and keeping it at least 500rpm under redline at all times. At the normal 600mi. first oil change interval. I changed it again, using the same oil and filter types. I've yet to redline the engine, and had it roiling at close to 130mph on multiple occasions. Thats where the factory ecu tune will limit the bikes top speed. This year I'll be loading a custom tune into the bikes ECU to take advantage of all the mods I've done already. Can't wait to finally be a given 'er all she's got capt'n. Running the crappy semi synthetic oils they come with for 600 miles is totally unnecessary. 2 good heat cycle rides is all most bikes need. Then get that crap outta there!
New rider with a new bike, and a question here. I noticed you're a bigger guy like me, and I got myself a Honda CB300R as my first bike. The stock mirrors are pretty terrible for my height and how I sit on the bike. Do you have any recommendations for new mirrors for a guy that is about 6'5? I don't feel comfortable taking my bike commuting to work and back before I fix a couple of these smaller issues that affect my actual safety.
ive been breakin in my zx6r by the book (mostly) but turned off the shift light cause that got annoying fast Ill turn it back on after 600 mile oil change.
The only thing about breaking in that i have heard repeatedly and saw done on race engines is to not keep the engine rpms steady, accelerate, slow down. Using the rev range. Which comicaly is the opposite of what most people will do trying to break engine in "gently" just essentially iddling around never getting on the gas.
“How I break in a motorcycle.” The guy that only has old bikes. Ari Henning had a video on Busting the Myth of motorcycle breaking in. Took two different approaches, by the book and Balls Out. Then tore the motor down after… Ride it like you’ll ride it. Fresh builds need heat cycles to set rings.
The only problem with that video, and he says this at the end, is the motor he used was in a mild state of tune. This absolutely is not. Breaking this in hard could have detrimental effects to the long term health.
@@spitescorner My father/family has owned a machine and automotive shop for over 30 years. It’s about heat cycles, not rpm. Heat cycle to set rings, change the oil and operate like you intend on using it. Everything from commuter cars to ethanol dirt track modifieds. Only thing that happens during that time are the rings. Low rpm’s is the last thing you want. Like anything mechanical, it’s about preventative maintenance.
@@spitescorner Apologize if I came across negative. Just talk to some old head engine builders. They see their work and have years of case study to look back on.
Just bought an RSV4, didnt ride on the road at all to break it in. Went on track straight away and did all breaking in on track. Which for me was riding it normally. It was software limited to certain rpms at different stages and it gradually kept unlocking more and more rpm. Other guys i talked to, tried gentle breaking in with some of their bikes, other bikes breaking in on track and zero difference. It seems that it is mainly to force people to take it easy on a new bike they are not used to. You want the customer base to survive 😂
Fun fact: Aprilia tracks your top speed. If you run into issues and the techs notice you topped it out before 600ish miles, they could use it against you to void your warranty claims, even if that shouldn't technically hurt the engine as long as it wasn't pinned at WOT the entire ride.
Yeah💪 Hope to see you on a Trackhouse colored Aprilia 😜
About the transmission on an Aprilia, (it might be a prototype in Motogp) but Viñales is still figuring out how to properly shift since Aprilia is about the sound of the motor how you shift gears😅
Moore does a good engine brake in .
revving the bike in neutral?
did you see ridesmart is partnering with Aprillia to do rental bikes at COTA? Bikes will be set up with data logging and all the race bits :D hope to see you at another trackday soon!
Thought you were moving into 'breaking motorcycles' when I saw the title as in stripping for parts and selling them rather than 'breaking-in' a motorcycle as in driving a particular way for a particular period of time until parts are all worn together and work better.
I never had to do this because I never had a new bike. I do go easy for about 50miles while breaking-in new brake pads and tyres though.
2:36 Thats the biggest order of Chicken strips I ever seen. Chick-Fi-le is gonna give you a call
Being about as tall as you and having taken a serious interest in this Tuono model, I'm curious what options you would recommend for taller handlebars and lower footpegs?
You would have to break in same model in different ways then dissect each motorcycle to see wear on internals and send fluids to labs.
I think of riding a brand new bike like using one’s own body that is sore all over from physical exercise. You go for a gentle walk. Gentle stretches. Certainly nothing more than a slow run. Take a break, rest. Go for another walk. Concentrate on moving in a fluid motion. Whatever the human equivalent is to lugging, definitely don’t do that. The only exception that could apply is suspension. New Stiff suspension will benefit from a good massage 💆. Nothing brutal, but working it appropriately for the intended purpose is the bike will help bring supple forth for you.
I am still breaking in my 2023 Rebel 1100T DCT. I am keeping it in rain mode until I get the break-in done. Only 200 more miles to go.
Lofe goals- Buy enough new motorcycles to develop a break in routine. 😂😂😂
Would think that taking every 3rd exit or so to vary speed, rpm’s, and cycle gears would be beneficial.
Hold on-- a tuono for gp..?
Part of the ARD fleet you can test ride, he mentions it at the end of the video
I’m going to watch this before I sleep! Spite can I get recs for good dual sport/adv bike for shorter riders(5’5)
Most Japanese manufactures break in their motors AT the factory, drain the oil, and then push them out to the market...Plainly can be seen on TH-cam if you look it up...When I tell you they break the motors in HARD to set the rings please find the videos and watch them...The rest of the parts you stated are definitely important to do...
That's not breaking in the engines AT ALL. They test the engines are fully functioning and in good order to be released onto the public highways. They have to do this. Purely from a safety standpoint and most probably a legal one. People need to stop spreading this misinformation over the internet.
The rings MUST be seated properly or the bike will consume oil and have poor compression its whole life, shouldn’t baby an engine too much especially early on. If the factory gives it the beans before it leaves the factory all the better
If you look at the BMW factory video- they run those bikes up to temperature and then hammer them on a dyno !!! But gearboxes and cycle parts do need to be broken in…. Me I do pretty much what you prrscribe with the odd pull through the rev’s in a low ish gear just to stretch those rods a little and make sure the rings are using all of the motors stroke…. Maybe you should get a couple or three small bikes and test the theory’s …?????
As a mechanical engineer the short answer SHOULD be no. Anything with specs and tolerances should be capable from first start. That said…as a heavy equipment operator, I’ve seen that most spec parts when put together to form a moving, working (creating energy) whole, usually experience heat for the first time as a combined whole, motion, and stress. Therefore, running said equipment on a low stress low heat cycle before “working” it to maximum limits, helps mesh together parts with sharp edges, burrs from machining etc. I like using the rifle barrel in this instance because most rifle manufacturers in USA (laws in USA forbid weapons from outside of USA to be sold in USA…hence why sig sauer and glock etc have American plants). The manufacturer assembles and test fires each rifle before shipping it out to sale. 1 shot. Yes it works but hasn’t gone through a “normal usage” heat cycle yet. And the break in is five, 1 round firings with a cleaning after each…5 2 round firings with cleaning after each set. And 5 five round firings with cleaning between sets. And every time I’ve done this “break in” cycle, I’ve had extremely accurate results. Been told many times it’s not necessary…and I’m sure it isn’t for necessary for operation…but side by side with 2 barrels sequentially off production line, 1 broken in properly and 1 not….will have difference in accuracy at the bare minimum….and a “low mileage” death at an extreme. And guns are no where near the heats and tolerances of a combustion engine. You know what make “gun oil” so expensive? The word “gun”.
Never had a new bike. But after a rebuild I just ride conservative and do early oil changes.
Ari says to rail it in his video. His only requirement was the 1st oil change. Like you said, they don't change much otherwise, just the breaks.
Ari also tested a CBR500 motor, iirc. Not an 1077cc V4 that's basically race ready. Not hating, just saying not every motor is as forgiving as a Honda.
@@spitescorner Not trying to stir anything. I do understand that it's a totally different machine.
Avoid highways if possible, if not, do what Spite do - don't rev beyond needed and vary in RPMs as much as you safely can, use engine braking as much as it's possible. As for bedding in break pads, dont stop to 0 mph, let wheels (disc rotors) spin even a little after breaking (same goes to beading in new pads on used motorcycle)
On a sub 30 hp motorcycle, it's unreasonable to keep the rpms below 6k like the manual recommendeds. Everyone on the road will want to run you over. The max speed on my KLX300SM is about 90 mph down hill. If I don't rev it all the way, people will run me over. While breaking it in, I basically just rode it how one would as a commuter. It seems to be doing just fine.
TLDR: It's all about the tires and brakes. You need to brake in the tires and brake.
Hey just wondering. Can you review the new scouts?
If I can get my hands on one I'd love to
Hey man, been following your videos and i love you above the yammie channel.
I have a question though are you open to chat? Or do you respond to messages? Thanks and keep this quality videos!
There's a discord community as part of the patreon link in the description. I'm there all the time. I usually don't respond to Instagram DMs. I also have an email in the about page for business inquiries.
Do the break in by the book,
I have an 07 R1 with 63,000 miles on the motor, which has never been rebuilt. Valve check every 10,000, no synthetic oils until it reached 7,500, oil service as often as I can……….
Let the engine warm to full fans on before you ride will make parts last.
When they come off the assembly line they go onto a rolling road and are run to maximum revs to see if everything works
Royal Enfield Classic 350 max 45mph for first 300 miles, max 50mph till 1200 miles.
I'm at 370 miles, had first 300 miles tappet adjust and oil change done. I'm not strict to the rules but am easy going and vary speed as much as practical.
There are lots of Royal Enfields 2nd hand with only a few hundred miles on them for £1200 less than new. But who knows how they've been treated in the break-in?
I would say I just broke in my s1000rr in a medium to low manner due to the bearing issues they have. But it's OK so far with 800 miles.
You know how I break in a new bike? I'll tell you my guaranteed-never-fails secret... I follow the manufacturers guideline in the owners manual. There, I've let slip the the biggest secret in motorcycling!
Of course you could be like that other channel that ignored the manufacturers advice and blew up their $35K bike within a hundred miles because "they knew better" than the manual how to run it in. And yet they were incredulous at the response of the manufacturer who told them to f'koff when they asked for a warranty repair, because they could see the owner didn't follow the break in instructions (that ECU records all and will snitch on you).
In summary: You run it in and service by the book if you want to keep that warranty period valid.
Being the fact i have only broken in offroad machines every fresh build gets broken in the same way.
1. Let it warm up
2. Bed the pads in
3. Ride it like i would on race day. Motors see the rev limiter with less than 30 minutes on them.
At the triumph factory for testing they put oil in the first bike run up the rpms, go through all the gears, dump the oil and put the same oil in the next three bikes to perform the testing. only on the fifth bike do they start testing with new oil.