Tire fitment is always tricky, I run a 17x7 245./45/17 with 4.5" backspacing on front and 17x8 275/40/17 4.5' backspacing on my 67 mustang convertible and it fits beautifully. Best of luck love watching you work things out..
I was hoping it would have been a little more stout, but it was cheap, so you know what they say.... I also wish I could set the car on the ground with it and get a better idea of how the tires would fit and look. :)
Andy...appreciate what you are doing and that tool approach is really cool!. Not having the tool is a crap shoot without spending tires shop money....and where i live they only recommend what they sell the most of which is not necessarily what i want. I'm aligned to your thinking on look and performance (and want to have and eat my cake too) please share when you land on your final. Wheels and tires is a very personal thing....car looks great...
@ no major mods. Just changed to reverse eye 4.5 leafs. The front has 1-inch drop progressive springs. I bought the Shelby drop kit from you this year and plan to do it this winter. I can send pics of the current stance and clearances, if it helps ya. Thanks for all you do!
I actually narrowed my rear end to fit 245-R60-15 in the rear with Torque Thrusts. No rubbing on fenders, no rolling needed and no rubbing against leaf springs. Have about 3/4 inch clearance to fenders and to leaf spring. Also have 1" lowering blocks installed.
Andy, Your coverage of the topic is great but there is something else to be considered. In an aggressive turn the sidewall will 'squirm' to the point where you lose a little more clearance. It is mainly the outside wheel - (IE. the right wheels on a left hand turn and of course the left hand wheel on a right hand turn) It will vary depending on sidewall height, rubber compound etc - but you may get some scrub on aggressive corners. I have the same car as you and only run 225/60/15s on a 15x7 steelies but I am considering wider after watching this
Thanks for the heads up. Under extreme cornering, the bottom of the outside tire will see increased loading causing it to roll under and deform, but that deformity returns to "normal" as the tire rotates and the top of the tire looks and acts like the car is standing still. However, under cornering, one needs to be aware of where the outside tire will be with respect to the fender as the suspension compresses and the tire begins to fit up inside the fender. Also, the with wider tires (and depending on the backspacing), the inside edge of the front and back of the tire may touch components of the car. This is seen in my video where the frame lip has been notched where a tire could touch if the tire was wide enough. You are correct, it's more complicated than just sticking wide tires under the fenders, so I am keeping those kinds of potential fitment issues high on the list as I narrow down the wheel size, backspacing, and tire size. :)
I've done this using free worn-out tires from a local shop. They have to pay to dispose of them so theyh're more than happy to give you one or two for test fitting (especially if you're going to go to them for your eventual purchase).
The wheel size doesn't affect how the tires fit. It affects the look and how the car handles, but for the exercise I was trying to show in this video, it's the width that I was trying to find. A 255 wide 17" tire is the same width as a 255 wide 15" tire. :)
@ I wasn’t sure whether sidewall deformation played a role. The tighter fit of the tire to a taller wheel might mean the tire shifts around less under load in a corner? Might be something I need to research
I ran across the issue where I fit 245s in the rear, but the leaf springs deflected and cause some rub on the fender lip. I’m going to upgrade to rollerized leaf spring hangers. Either that or a track bar.
Might want to try Team III Wheels/ET Mags, if you need custom backspacing. I bought a set of mini lite style 17x8s with custom backspacing from them and they were pretty good to deal with. Not cheap, but not too expensive considering the quality and a custom wheel.
255/40r17 on a 17x9 (+4.5 inch bs) would mean less tire bulge which means more inside tire sidewall clearance including to fit a 275(rated on a 9.5) in the future.
Yeah, but I'm also trying to have my cake and eat it too. I don't care for the look where a tire is stretching out to meet the rim of the wheel, so that 255/40 might not be where I want to be. I wish I could buy one wheel and have it shipped for a reasonable price so I could do more testing before I make my decision. :)
@AndyKruseChannel I like the look of a 245/45r17(on a 17x8 with 4.75 inch bs) and has more sidewall, which is important for a solid rear axle car so it can do a better job of maintaining traction around corners. Also I like the look of Minilites wheels as another choice if you haven't thought about them as a option?
@@gen1c8rs88 Minilites are at the top of the list right now, they've been there for about 2 years, just can't decide on the size. I personally think more sidewall looks better on classic cars (as opposed to modern cars), but I can't fit the brakes I want inside 15" wheels. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel 245/45r17 has many good tire options, but thier is 245/50r16(Nitto NT01 and a few other options) and 255/50r16(Toyo R888R needs a 16x9 as it is a 275 width tire and also there is a few additional other tire options as well) as options, I talked with a owner of a road legal 1966 Mustang race car with fender flares and tubed fender wells, and 255/50r16 Toyo R888R tires were talked about, as he too wanted a "15" inch wheel and 275/50r15 tires. A 16 inch wheel will fit a 12 to 13 inch diameter rotor depending on the width of the rotor(can influence caliper width/size), size of the caliper(performance needs) and design of the wheel.
Street or track suspension has a billet drop spindle that would allow to fit in 65/66 in it’s suspension 17x9.5" with 6.25" backspacing & 275/40/17 tires 18x9.5" with 6.25" backspacing & 275/35/18 tires Not sure how much on yours.
My 67 has lowering springs front and rear. 245/245/17 rubbed the front fender where you were close so I had to go to a 225/40. On the back those 245/45 scraped really bad so I went to 235/40. Still not much better but it’s expensive to experiment. My wheels are 4.5 BS I think and wish I had gone with 5”. I’m always curious about the Meier Racing rear leafs that claim they can run 295s in the rear. I guess an expensive experiment if you want to try that. That’s what I may do since it’s still cheaper than a 4-link or IRS.
It's also tough to compare tire fitment on the 67 vs the 66, the chassis is so much narrower on the 66 that there's lots of combos that don't work, but would work on the 67. :)
On my 66 I am running 17x8 all around with 225/45 front and 235/45 rear. On my 68 I am running 15x8 all around with 265/50 front!! and 295/50 rear. The rear end is from a 64 comet which is a bit narrower than a 68. I can turn the front lock to lock with no issue . I rolled the front fenders. Wanted that wide front look.
Running 17x8 square on a 67 with plenty of space front & back... have a Lincoln Versailles 9 inch rear end and shelby drop too... 245/40 zr 17 Scott Drake Legendary Wheels LW80 8 Spoke 5x114.3 7" Offset.. run square with extended studs & spacers to adjust.. spacers are your friend.. do not stack spacers.. only one per wheel.
I thought 235/45/17 on an 8" wide wheel with 4.75" backspacing was the max on a square setup with fenders rolled. Now I am not sure. Supposedly you can run 4.75" backspacing and still clear the ball joint when going to a 17" wheel.
I got to the same conclusion with the backspacing (@ 4.75”), but I think we can squeeze in a little bit bigger tire. I’m still working towards this upgrade, I’ll post a video about it when I get there. 🙂
I’d buy your old 225/50/16 wheels and tires (because I’m not as adventurous as you). They would be a nice upgrade to my boring 14” wheels on my 68 Mustang. Plus, then I could do a disk upgrade at the back and front!
I'm a subscriber,I've been watching & learning frm ur videos I'm also a one man fixer upper when Its possible .Just what I was hoping to see you do.I have a 64.5 mustang coupe & looking for wheels/tires sizes w the same aggressive stance on stock. Does anyone have info which combo will fit if its 18's in the rear? Hope you do more vids on this.We're watching thanks
Thanks! An 18" wheel will fit easily, but what is the tricky part is getting the width, offset (or backspacing), and tire size correct to there's little to no modification to the car. :)
I'm where you are now, have the Shelby drop with Total control front suspension and rack and Pinion. Rear is QP 9 inch with Detroit speed 1.5 inch drop leafs and a 1 inch lowering block. I just purchased Legendary Shelby 69 GT500 style wheels 17x7 front 4.25 BS with cut and rolled lips, rear 17x 8 4.75 BS with lip trimmed about 1/4 inch. I want to run a performance tire like a Nitto 555. Eagerly waiting for your choice
With those wheel specs you listed, you should be able to fit a 255/40 in the rear, and and a 235 up front (the b.s. on the front might be your limiting factor, and the wheel width). Either way, that's a lot of tire for these cars. I may end up with 255/40 in the rear, I'm not sure I can squeeze a 275 in there. :)
Love your mustang content. You have probably already been asked this but since it is a 66 Shelby tribute why did you not install the plexiglass windows?
I have the windows (came with the car), but I change my mind every week on installing them. Plus, it's a one way trip, can't easily go back to the Fins if I don't like the windows. :)
May also cause issues with your paint. Personally, I really like the look of the windows and the extra invisibility. Very iconic look of the 66 Shelby.
All is good I bought parts from Bill Maier Racing back in 1982 Mikes Dad ,suspension and 69 Shelby fiberglass parts too . Keep it going I'm in the same wheels and tires thing / fitment with out mini tubes, good luck
Have to put brake kit first. Careful, when over a 15 inch wheel while require change left spring , front suspension and body panels. What ever you feel comfortable with. There no weight on the tire, there is no back spacing. Wait to winter, put the breaks and find the rims that give best handing without a lot of cutting.
the disadvantage of lower profile is obviously that not all road surfaces are created nor keep smooth, that said most 1965 fastback race cars use a 245 45 16 if the class allows larger than a 15” rim, at some point it’s more difficult to increase contact patch by increasing rim size only to reduce tire profile, you end up with the same contact patch, that said running a smaller rim diameter reduces sprung weight, and lowers the cars center of gravity. Honestly I would rather be a bit lower in exchange for brake size, not really giving up a whole lot 16” wheels are probably ideal handling wise for mostly stock configurations.
Don't worry, I'll still find a way to waste money on this build. I figure I've already wasted over $5k in parts I didn't need, didn't use, or upgraded to something else later on. :)
@AndyKruseChannel saw a video of a c10 auto crossing and the rear wheel cam showed the tire rubbing the shock mount with seemingly plenty of room staticly.
when you drive away from the gas station you push the axle crooked and your wheel gets stuck, you should actually have adjusted this before you had the body fixed
I sense fender flairs in your future lol 18" wheel will give you more options for a tire, possibly even slightly more economical. I prefer 16" wheels for weight considerations, but tire sizes and getting limited along with 17" wheels. Trying to maintain a squared setup (same size, all 4 corners) is going to be the most limiting aspect. May as well embrace the stock max staggered setup with 225 on the front and 245 on the rear. Also be honest about how the car is going to spend 80% of it's time running..... race track? Yes, max out rubber contact patch on the road. Daily driver / parade car? 1-2 sizes wider than stock should be enough and keep the main experience enjoyable.
I have not found a set of flares that looks the way I want them to look. They're either too subtle or too large. I've seen custom flares that look decent, but I'm no body guy, so that's likely not on the table. You think tire options for 17s are getting thin, there's definitely more options for 17s than 16s (ask me how I know). What do you mean be honest about how the car is going to spend it's time? I've got over 500 videos for you to catch up on. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel All fair points! :) How the car will be spending it's time was more an introspective/rhetorical statement. Your remark about each car being totally different based on mods is spot on. Everything becomes custom once we start tinkering and improving or changing parts.
@@AndyKruseChannel About the only thing on my car that I have never had off or replaced is the leaf springs. Would you suggest changing to the 3 link like you or stick with new springs?
@@1965copester New springs won't provide the stability that a 3-link provides. I'd do both, but the 3-link (or Panhard Bar) will generate more smiles than new leaf springs. New Leafs will compliment how the car can be driven once you install that Panhard Bar. :)
Tire fitment is always tricky, I run a 17x7 245./45/17 with 4.5" backspacing on front and 17x8 275/40/17 4.5' backspacing on my 67 mustang convertible and it fits beautifully. Best of luck love watching you work things out..
Especially on the first couple years, not much fits like it does in 67 and later. :)
Great video. Thanks for taking the time.
You bet
Nice, I mounted Nitto 275/60R15 drag radials with 5.5 back spacing on my Coupe 68. No fender rolls about an inch from the leaf springs.
Yeah, it's tough to compare the fitment of the '67+ Mustangs to the '64-'66 Mustangs since the early cars were so much narrower. :)
Nice hat!
Thanks
That's a really cool tool. Haven't seen a setup like that before. Really helps taking some of the guessing out of it.
I was hoping it would have been a little more stout, but it was cheap, so you know what they say....
I also wish I could set the car on the ground with it and get a better idea of how the tires would fit and look. :)
Man your mustang looks awesome
Thanks! :)
Andy...appreciate what you are doing and that tool approach is really cool!. Not having the tool is a crap shoot without spending tires shop money....and where i live they only recommend what they sell the most of which is not necessarily what i want. I'm aligned to your thinking on look and performance (and want to have and eat my cake too) please share when you land on your final. Wheels and tires is a very personal thing....car looks great...
Thanks! There will be more videos on where this ends up, it's part of a larger change to the car. ;)
That's a very handy tool. We will need something like that for the 69 we are building!
You need the tool and we need the video! :)
1966 Fastback GT here. Front: 235/45 on 17x8 with 4.5 BS. Rear: 275/40 on 17x9.5 with 5.5 BS. Works perfect with no rubbing and no fender roll.
This is the good stuff right here!
Any mods to your rear axle/brakes to make that 5.5BS fit?
@ no major mods. Just changed to reverse eye 4.5 leafs. The front has 1-inch drop progressive springs. I bought the Shelby drop kit from you this year and plan to do it this winter. I can send pics of the current stance and clearances, if it helps ya. Thanks for all you do!
So Andy you finalize on what you’re going with?
@@GigemGarage Not yet.
Would love to see a pic or two, plz and thanks
I actually narrowed my rear end to fit 245-R60-15 in the rear with Torque Thrusts. No rubbing on fenders, no rolling needed and no rubbing against leaf springs. Have about 3/4 inch clearance to fenders and to leaf spring. Also have 1" lowering blocks installed.
I've thought about doing the same, but future plans will make it difficult to recreate what you've done to my setup. :)
Andy, Your coverage of the topic is great but there is something else to be considered. In an aggressive turn the sidewall will 'squirm' to the point where you lose a little more clearance. It is mainly the outside wheel - (IE. the right wheels on a left hand turn and of course the left hand wheel on a right hand turn) It will vary depending on sidewall height, rubber compound etc - but you may get some scrub on aggressive corners. I have the same car as you and only run 225/60/15s on a 15x7 steelies but I am considering wider after watching this
Thanks for the heads up. Under extreme cornering, the bottom of the outside tire will see increased loading causing it to roll under and deform, but that deformity returns to "normal" as the tire rotates and the top of the tire looks and acts like the car is standing still. However, under cornering, one needs to be aware of where the outside tire will be with respect to the fender as the suspension compresses and the tire begins to fit up inside the fender. Also, the with wider tires (and depending on the backspacing), the inside edge of the front and back of the tire may touch components of the car. This is seen in my video where the frame lip has been notched where a tire could touch if the tire was wide enough.
You are correct, it's more complicated than just sticking wide tires under the fenders, so I am keeping those kinds of potential fitment issues high on the list as I narrow down the wheel size, backspacing, and tire size. :)
We are both on the same page.
I've done this using free worn-out tires from a local shop. They have to pay to dispose of them so theyh're more than happy to give you one or two for test fitting (especially if you're going to go to them for your eventual purchase).
Great point!
Would be great if you could do the same experiment with 15" wheel size. Nice videos!
The wheel size doesn't affect how the tires fit. It affects the look and how the car handles, but for the exercise I was trying to show in this video, it's the width that I was trying to find. A 255 wide 17" tire is the same width as a 255 wide 15" tire. :)
@ I wasn’t sure whether sidewall deformation played a role. The tighter fit of the tire to a taller wheel might mean the tire shifts around less under load in a corner? Might be something I need to research
I ran across the issue where I fit 245s in the rear, but the leaf springs deflected and cause some rub on the fender lip. I’m going to upgrade to rollerized leaf spring hangers. Either that or a track bar.
Track bar (or Panhard Bar) will fix that issue, and you don't need to upgrade your springs or spring hangers, unless you want to. :)
Might want to try Team III Wheels/ET Mags, if you need custom backspacing. I bought a set of mini lite style 17x8s with custom backspacing from them and they were pretty good to deal with. Not cheap, but not too expensive considering the quality and a custom wheel.
Yeah, I was looking at those wheels because of the ability to order custom backspacing. :)
255/40r17 on a 17x9 (+4.5 inch bs) would mean less tire bulge which means more inside tire sidewall clearance including to fit a 275(rated on a 9.5) in the future.
Yeah, but I'm also trying to have my cake and eat it too. I don't care for the look where a tire is stretching out to meet the rim of the wheel, so that 255/40 might not be where I want to be. I wish I could buy one wheel and have it shipped for a reasonable price so I could do more testing before I make my decision. :)
@AndyKruseChannel I like the look of a 245/45r17(on a 17x8 with 4.75 inch bs) and has more sidewall, which is important for a solid rear axle car so it can do a better job of maintaining traction around corners. Also I like the look of Minilites wheels as another choice if you haven't thought about them as a option?
@@gen1c8rs88 Minilites are at the top of the list right now, they've been there for about 2 years, just can't decide on the size. I personally think more sidewall looks better on classic cars (as opposed to modern cars), but I can't fit the brakes I want inside 15" wheels. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel 245/45r17 has many good tire options, but thier is 245/50r16(Nitto NT01 and a few other options) and 255/50r16(Toyo R888R needs a 16x9 as it is a 275 width tire and also there is a few additional other tire options as well) as options, I talked with a owner of a road legal 1966 Mustang race car with fender flares and tubed fender wells, and 255/50r16 Toyo R888R tires were talked about, as he too wanted a "15" inch wheel and 275/50r15 tires. A 16 inch wheel will fit a 12 to 13 inch diameter rotor depending on the width of the rotor(can influence caliper width/size), size of the caliper(performance needs) and design of the wheel.
Street or track suspension has a billet drop spindle that would allow to fit in 65/66 in it’s suspension
17x9.5" with 6.25" backspacing & 275/40/17 tires
18x9.5" with 6.25" backspacing & 275/35/18 tires
Not sure how much on yours.
I might take a peek at those, don't want to rule anything out yet. :)
My 67 has lowering springs front and rear. 245/245/17 rubbed the front fender where you were close so I had to go to a 225/40. On the back those 245/45 scraped really bad so I went to 235/40. Still not much better but it’s expensive to experiment. My wheels are 4.5 BS I think and wish I had gone with 5”. I’m always curious about the Meier Racing rear leafs that claim they can run 295s in the rear. I guess an expensive experiment if you want to try that. That’s what I may do since it’s still cheaper than a 4-link or IRS.
It's also tough to compare tire fitment on the 67 vs the 66, the chassis is so much narrower on the 66 that there's lots of combos that don't work, but would work on the 67. :)
Did you add the shelby drop?
Yes sir, that was done a few years ago. :)
On my 66 I am running 17x8 all around with 225/45 front and 235/45 rear. On my 68 I am running 15x8 all around with 265/50 front!! and 295/50 rear. The rear end is from a 64 comet which is a bit narrower than a 68. I can turn the front lock to lock with no issue . I rolled the front fenders. Wanted that wide front look.
Yeah, I figured we could squeeze a 235 under the sheet metal without much effort, but I what if I want more? :)
@AndyKruseChannel I feel a mini tub and a rear suspension upgrade is on the next possibly for you?!!? Put some 305s.
Where did you find the 16" rims you currently have on the car? I'm having difficulty finding 16's for my 65.
There are several places that carry this 16" wheel, part number VN2156765. Here's an Amazon Link - amzn.to/3YIS4rA
Running 17x8 square on a 67 with plenty of space front & back... have a Lincoln Versailles 9 inch rear end and shelby drop too... 245/40 zr 17
Scott Drake Legendary Wheels
LW80 8 Spoke
5x114.3
7" Offset.. run square with extended studs & spacers to adjust.. spacers are your friend.. do not stack spacers.. only one per wheel.
Can't really compare will fitment of the 67 vs the 66, two different cars with different wheel fitment. :)
@@AndyKruseChannelyup 67-68 has another inch per side to play with
I thought 235/45/17 on an 8" wide wheel with 4.75" backspacing was the max on a square setup with fenders rolled. Now I am not sure. Supposedly you can run 4.75" backspacing and still clear the ball joint when going to a 17" wheel.
I got to the same conclusion with the backspacing (@ 4.75”), but I think we can squeeze in a little bit bigger tire. I’m still working towards this upgrade, I’ll post a video about it when I get there. 🙂
Andy, as always, provoking good, healthy discussion here. Are you going for more of a autocross kinda car here?
Yes and no. Have cake and eat it too. :)
I’d buy your old 225/50/16 wheels and tires (because I’m not as adventurous as you). They would be a nice upgrade to my boring 14” wheels on my 68 Mustang. Plus, then I could do a disk upgrade at the back and front!
I will likely sell them after I upgrade, but locally because shipping is so expensive it almost makes it not worth it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel even if you would not ship, which wheels are those (brand, size, etc)? I'm looking for the same ones for my 65 hardtop 😢
@@spinnox1 American Racing Torq Thrust II wheels, sized 16x7 with 4" backspacing, part number VN2156765.
I'm a subscriber,I've been watching & learning frm ur videos I'm also a one man fixer upper when Its possible .Just what I was hoping to see you do.I have a 64.5 mustang coupe & looking for wheels/tires sizes w the same aggressive stance on stock.
Does anyone have info which combo will fit if its 18's in the rear?
Hope you do more vids on this.We're watching thanks
Thanks!
An 18" wheel will fit easily, but what is the tricky part is getting the width, offset (or backspacing), and tire size correct to there's little to no modification to the car. :)
225/45ZR17 - Tire
17 X 8 IN. - 5 X 4.5 - 4.75 BS - RIMS
Got the RIMS from Holley and the Tires are Michelin Pilot.
Nah, 225 is not where I want to be, I'm already at a 225 wide tire. :)
I'm where you are now, have the Shelby drop with Total control front suspension and rack and Pinion. Rear is QP 9 inch with Detroit speed 1.5 inch drop leafs and a 1 inch lowering block. I just purchased Legendary Shelby 69 GT500 style wheels 17x7 front 4.25 BS with cut and rolled lips, rear 17x 8 4.75 BS with lip trimmed about 1/4 inch. I want to run a performance tire like a Nitto 555. Eagerly waiting for your choice
With those wheel specs you listed, you should be able to fit a 255/40 in the rear, and and a 235 up front (the b.s. on the front might be your limiting factor, and the wheel width). Either way, that's a lot of tire for these cars. I may end up with 255/40 in the rear, I'm not sure I can squeeze a 275 in there. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thankyou for the reply Andy!!
Love your mustang content. You have probably already been asked this but since it is a 66 Shelby tribute why did you not install the plexiglass windows?
I have the windows (came with the car), but I change my mind every week on installing them. Plus, it's a one way trip, can't easily go back to the Fins if I don't like the windows. :)
May also cause issues with your paint. Personally, I really like the look of the windows and the extra invisibility. Very iconic look of the 66 Shelby.
200 Treadwear baby...
That's the high end. :)
The only thing with going Bigger diameter wheel you loose tire side wall making for a hard tire ride.
Yep, I'm not building the same car as you. :)
All is good I bought parts from Bill Maier Racing back in 1982 Mikes Dad ,suspension and 69 Shelby fiberglass parts too . Keep it going I'm in the same wheels and tires thing / fitment with out mini tubes, good luck
Have to put brake kit first. Careful, when over a 15 inch wheel while require change left spring , front suspension and body panels. What ever you feel comfortable with. There no weight on the tire, there is no back spacing. Wait to winter, put the breaks and find the rims that give best handing without a lot of cutting.
Yep. :)
245 45 17 should work, need o roll your fenders though...
Rolled. :)
the disadvantage of lower profile is obviously that not all road surfaces are created nor keep smooth, that said most 1965 fastback race cars use a 245 45 16 if the class allows larger than a 15” rim, at some point it’s more difficult to increase contact patch by increasing rim size only to reduce tire profile, you end up with the same contact patch, that said running a smaller rim diameter reduces sprung weight, and lowers the cars center of gravity. Honestly I would rather be a bit lower in exchange for brake size, not really giving up
a whole lot 16” wheels are probably ideal handling wise for mostly stock configurations.
You’re going in the right direction vs.buying a set of wheels and tires and hoping they fit.
Don't worry, I'll still find a way to waste money on this build. I figure I've already wasted over $5k in parts I didn't need, didn't use, or upgraded to something else later on. :)
@ and that’s why we drive Mustangs!
Just remember the tire rolls on the rim.
Got it
@AndyKruseChannel saw a video of a c10 auto crossing and the rear wheel cam showed the tire rubbing the shock mount with seemingly plenty of room staticly.
I have a widebody coupe with 295/50/R15. with 15x10j
Cool, but I'm not planning to go widebody at this time. I should have explored that before painting the car. :)
255 square Sir
Yeah, it's looking like that might be the best route without too much compromise. :)
when you drive away from the gas station you push the axle crooked and your wheel gets stuck, you should actually have adjusted this before you had the body fixed
What?
Do you what a road car or race car. Personnel you are going the wrong direction.
Thankfully I'm building the car I want, not the car you want. :)
"Pro-Touring" Google it.
@@AndyKruseChannelbuild the car you want not what someone else tells you. Love the videos by the way
@@allenfolstad3245 Truth!
I sense fender flairs in your future lol
18" wheel will give you more options for a tire, possibly even slightly more economical. I prefer 16" wheels for weight considerations, but tire sizes and getting limited along with 17" wheels.
Trying to maintain a squared setup (same size, all 4 corners) is going to be the most limiting aspect. May as well embrace the stock max staggered setup with 225 on the front and 245 on the rear. Also be honest about how the car is going to spend 80% of it's time running..... race track? Yes, max out rubber contact patch on the road. Daily driver / parade car? 1-2 sizes wider than stock should be enough and keep the main experience enjoyable.
I have not found a set of flares that looks the way I want them to look. They're either too subtle or too large. I've seen custom flares that look decent, but I'm no body guy, so that's likely not on the table.
You think tire options for 17s are getting thin, there's definitely more options for 17s than 16s (ask me how I know).
What do you mean be honest about how the car is going to spend it's time? I've got over 500 videos for you to catch up on. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel All fair points! :) How the car will be spending it's time was more an introspective/rhetorical statement. Your remark about each car being totally different based on mods is spot on. Everything becomes custom once we start tinkering and improving or changing parts.
Then you will need electric power steering to be able to turn those big meats. lol
What if I told you I finally made a decision about Power Steering for this car? What if I told you I have made a purchase?
Oh snap! Can't wait to see what you got!!
@@AndyKruseChannel About the only thing on my car that I have never had off or replaced is the leaf springs. Would you suggest changing to the 3 link like you or stick with new springs?
@@1965copester New springs won't provide the stability that a 3-link provides. I'd do both, but the 3-link (or Panhard Bar) will generate more smiles than new leaf springs. New Leafs will compliment how the car can be driven once you install that Panhard Bar. :)
Thanks for your advice. 🙂