Thank you, your videos are very helpful for us amateurs out here! We acquired a T&S 630 that looks pristine but of course the gears were bad. My husband watched your videos and is confident now he can deal with this repair.
I found this AFTER I had fuddled through the whole thing on my own, because Duh-tube kept giving me low quality videos for other types of machines. Great video, great explanation.
Great Videos, clearly filmed and spoken. My T&S Model 645 came with a roll pin to secure the top gear on the vertical shaft. There is no flat spot in that area of the shaft to lock a set screw onto, as the shaft is cross-drilled for the roll pin. The only replacement top gears that I can find are all secured with a set screw. As I understand it, SINGER only used the roll pins for a short period of time, reverting to the set screws to secure the top gear for the bobbin drive mechanism. My question is: On the SINGER T&S machines with a set-screw -secured top gear, is there a flat spot at the upper end of the shaft for the set screw to lock the gear in position on the shaft? I have thought about slightly countersinking one side of the cross-drilled hole in the shaft in order to lock the gear in place on the shaft, using the set screw. Another alternative would be to use Loc-Tite "Lock & Seal" (blue) on the threads of the set screw, to keep it from coming loose during the operation of the machine. I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on this matter, before I proceed with the reassembly of the machine.
If I remember correctly there is either an indentation or a flat spot. With the hardness of the steel. the set screw would need something to lock onto ( I would think ). Most all of what I had apart had a flat area that gave you room to adjust the gears as necessary. As long as the set screw secures itself in the same position the toll pin would have and it keeps it from spinning I do not see a problem with that. I think the set screws have flat spots on them and some might have a poitier tip which would work better. The blue loc tite is medium strength and I would think it would come loose during operation. Red is stonger. If you were able to find a parts machine or another shaft of same diameter and length.... you could also change that out. I like the countersinking idea to be honest, as long as the gear would be in the same position to mesh correctly, that is what i would do. I appreciate your comments and hope my videos have helped you. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask. I never get notified of personal messages and I dont know why, comments I get an email. Let me know how things go !
I also tried to replace the gear on a # 640 and the replacement gear would not fit on the shaft.. I tapped out the roll pin and the original gear has a larger diameter opening. It was a disappointment, because the machine was nearly unused for years and flawless. The "speed basting" feature and the powerful solid state motor made it very appealing.
You've done a great job explaining gear replacement. I've replaced the lower right gears on my Singer 640 Touch and Sew, adjusted the bobbin hook timing and it now stitches a straight stitch but won't zig zag. Any suggestions for that fix?
I wonder if it isnt the control up top by chance. I moved the stitching lever a little too far once and a spring jumped out of place. When I did that, it would only stitch in one way. There is a cam drum in the middle almost on top that controls all that. Another possibility is something is too tight..... hard to say without seeing it. Let me know what you find.
Thanks for the video, it is very helpful for my efforts replacing gears on my 648. I'm stuck on removing the top vertical gear on my machine as it turns out to be secured with a roll pin instead of a set screw. All the other gears have set screws. It seems some 648 machines had set screw in that gear while others had a pin.
@@More350Power Hi, thanks for the reply. I have since bought a used upright shaft and installed the new gear. This required a nearly complete disassembly of the machine which I was hesitant to do 8 months ago. Being shut in due to the pandemic this project gave me something interesting to concentrate on. I grew confidence over the months by purchasing two earlier machines with metal gears and becoming comfortable with them by cleaning and lubricating them, watching many videos, while studying and color coding multiple Singer Service manuals that I purchased along the way. Some service manuals reference things in earlier models, such as the 500 and 400 series. The insides are all similar with caveats. Each model machine has little "gotchas" but that is like everything else in life. Anyway, I now have the upright shaft with the metal remainder of the upright gear out of the machine. The roll pins were damaged way beyond roll punch help, I tried them as well. I'd really like to salvage the upright shaft itself if I can find some way of the removing the gear. I think it would need professional high quality tools, drills, etc. Perhaps someday I'll find a way but for now the machine is working and I have learned a lot about sewing machine repair on this and similar models. Thanks for your video!
It was made by dodge........ There are other changes you can see about half way through also....... remember fixed focus is what I was working with.....
Thanks for the video. I am trying to replace the gears in the bottom of my Singer 625 but am having problems getting the shaft out. I have removed to all of the set screws but the gears will not release. Any suggestions?
The set screws sometimes leave an indentation on the shaft that wont let the gears slide off. Sometimes I get them to release by taking all of the set screws out, use a little wd40 and try to get them to rotate on the shaft and work it off. Otherwise, you may have to cut it using a dremel being careful not to get the shavings into the rest of the machine.
My lower left gear screw is stripped and I’ve tried a multitude of different methods to try to get it out. Any suggestions? Also what size hex screw did you use to remove the upper main gear? I tried to use a 1/16 on mine and it is still too big. I was given the machine by a relative going into assistant living but I am very close to throwing it out.
I'm working on my grandmother's singer 646. It has a pin on the upper vertical shaft gear which I need to replace.. How do you remove that pin? I can't get it to budge. Thank you for your video. It is a pleasure learning from you.
Thank you for the kind comments ! What you are describing to me sounds like a " drift pin ". It is tapped into place and expands usually. Hard to say without seeing, though, they are usually tapped out using a punch or sorts that isnt as big as the pin, but not to small either that goes through the center of the pin. It could be permanent, but I would hope not. When you look at a drift pin you usually can see that it isnt a solid circle, but rather a " C " shaped pin that is compressed. Make sense ? Let me know.
Sometimes if the shaft has rust on it.... and I found out recently sometimes when they stamp the model number on it or the name, that can cause the shaft not to slide. Which shaft are you working on and were you able to get the gears loose ?
Hey how would one go about replace it the connecting gear that connects to the main drive gear? The big one that.. it seems to be attached to a bar connected to the feed dog mechanism..
are you referring to the white nylon gear that appears at @5:00 in the video? The shaft that runs across to a cross cut gear that meshes with the power motor?
I have a Singer 625. Replaced the bad gears...both shafts did not slide out they way they do in the video. Vertical shaft slid enough to replace the gears. The horizontal shaft was tough to remove. Now I need to make adjustments to the position of the left and right gears and the won't budge even with the set screws removed. How can I get them loosened up?
Check and see if they have multiple set screws in each gear. I have seen some with two set screws or even a drift pin in them. It is possible that if the set screw was really cranked down on, that the indentation in the shaft it not letting it move. Sometimes, I have cautiously used a pair of vice grips or pliers and rotated the gears on the shaft to break them loose. I know there are subtle differences between models..... and be careful with where the shafts slide through as some have bronze / brass bushings installed with tight clearances..... Let me know what you find out.
I disassembled everything and stared over. Both shafts were already marked up.The vertical shaft in the center of the shaft was the "Singer" name and "part number" engraved in to the metal. This area caused the shaft to bind so I could not easily remove it. I had to go in the this are under the faceplate hole and wrap emery paper around the shaft to polish by hand. Woof. I took my time and polished them both, test fit 4-5 times to make sure they would clear the bushings etc and be seated in the flat spots on the shafts.. I was able to retime the machine and it makes a nice stitch. Does straight and ZZ and some of the other patterns but not all. So my next step is a general cleaning to see what that does for the problematic stitch patterns. If you know anything about this latest issue with limited stitch patterns,,,,, your advice would be appreciated. Thank you for responding to my earlier comment.
I never thought of the engraving of the name and number..... that would make sense though. The stitching patterns are controlled by the mechanism up in the top of the unit. I did not cover it in the video, but I did have to clean it, lubricate it with light machine oil, and check the springs. Once I did that the selectors moved smoothly and it worked all right. I know there are some adjustments in there that determine where the needle is to stop so as to not hit the plate and such. Let me know how you are coming along with your machine. I do apologize for the slow responses as I have not been around a computer as much lately.
Sometimes, the screws are over tightened and form a indentation on the shaft that keeps the gears from coming off. Sometimes I use spray lube and try to get the gears to rotate on the shaft and work them off..... other times, ive had to cut them with a dremel.
VanessaCavett sounds like the set screw is too tight...... and you might break your tool ive broken quite a few.... sometimes you have to tighten it first then try to loosen it.... sometimes you might need to heat it up a bit..... or soak it with pb blaster
Unfortunately I do not have a video on that. They are hard to come by it seems which is why I made this one. I would say search the internet good and not just youtube..... I have found random videos over the years that help out a lot. Parts may be different but the principles can be the same between different machines and that helps as well.
I don't know if this is a forum for questions, but i'm trying to learn more about machine repair. i'm a professional seamstress and have done repair on my Featherweight as well as tinkering on industrials when we have issues at work. anyway, here's my question: i have a Touch and Sew 603 (my first machine, actually) that has a needle that doesn't totally center when set to the center position. I've looked online for repair ideas, but to no avail. Do you have a source, or have any advice on how to re-align it? i'm going to tinker a bit today but since you're the first Touch and Sew repair video i found, i thought i'd ask. :-)
+Liz Cherry Hmmmm, when you say it doesnt " center " meaning when you set the stitch pattern to straight or regular as I call it.... the needle is not pointed in the straight stitch position, right in the middle of the presser foot ?
+More350Power Exactly, it's just to the right of center, not in the full right position but a bit less than 1/8" off to the right of center (and the center of the presser foot). jiggling the needle position switch will temporary realign it, but it then slips back to off center.
I have commented on different videos in this series, but to add here...for what it is worth to allJust to note: rather than removing the bobbin winder side screw...it would be better to remove the two screws that secure it to the frame work, that way you retain mostly in part the correct bobbin winder driver height when engaged to wind a bobbin. The 620 did come with different versions of bobbin winders too, so mainly...remove the two screws that secure it to the frame of the machine instead. - Terry - www.tandtrepair.com
![เปิดใจ “ต้นหอม ศกุนตลา” หลังโดนพาดพิงธุรกิจที่เคยทำ และผลกระทบทำถูกปลดฟ้าผ่า! | แฉ 24 ต.ค.67 [2/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vCi5OIqlxaE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you, your videos are very helpful for us amateurs out here! We acquired a T&S 630 that looks pristine but of course the gears were bad. My husband watched your videos and is confident now he can deal with this repair.
Thank you for watching!
I found this AFTER I had fuddled through the whole thing on my own, because Duh-tube kept giving me low quality videos for other types of machines. Great video, great explanation.
Thank you for watching, much appreciated !
Great Video's, Got my old T&S going again. I hope she lasts another 35 yr's. Thanks!
you are welcome!
Great Videos, clearly filmed and spoken. My T&S Model 645 came with a roll pin to secure the top gear on the vertical shaft. There is no flat spot in that area of the shaft to lock a set screw onto, as the shaft is cross-drilled for the roll pin. The only replacement top gears that I can find are all secured with a set screw. As I understand it, SINGER only used the roll pins for a short period of time, reverting to the set screws to secure the top gear for the bobbin drive mechanism.
My question is: On the SINGER T&S machines with a set-screw -secured top gear, is there a flat spot at the upper end of the shaft for the set screw to lock the gear in position on the shaft?
I have thought about slightly countersinking one side of the cross-drilled hole in the shaft in order to lock the gear in place on the shaft, using the set screw. Another alternative would be to use Loc-Tite "Lock & Seal" (blue) on the threads of the set screw, to keep it from coming loose during the operation of the machine.
I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on this matter, before I proceed with the reassembly of the machine.
If I remember correctly there is either an indentation or a flat spot. With the hardness of the steel. the set screw would need something to lock onto ( I would think ). Most all of what I had apart had a flat area that gave you room to adjust the gears as necessary. As long as the set screw secures itself in the same position the toll pin would have and it keeps it from spinning I do not see a problem with that. I think the set screws have flat spots on them and some might have a poitier tip which would work better. The blue loc tite is medium strength and I would think it would come loose during operation. Red is stonger. If you were able to find a parts machine or another shaft of same diameter and length.... you could also change that out. I like the countersinking idea to be honest, as long as the gear would be in the same position to mesh correctly, that is what i would do. I appreciate your comments and hope my videos have helped you. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask. I never get notified of personal messages and I dont know why, comments I get an email. Let me know how things go !
I also tried to replace the gear on a # 640 and the replacement gear would not fit on the shaft.. I tapped out the roll pin and the original gear has a larger diameter opening. It was a disappointment, because the machine was nearly unused for years and flawless. The "speed basting" feature and the powerful solid state motor made it very appealing.
You've done a great job explaining gear replacement. I've replaced the lower right gears on my Singer 640 Touch and Sew, adjusted the bobbin hook timing and it now stitches a straight stitch but won't zig zag. Any suggestions for that fix?
I wonder if it isnt the control up top by chance. I moved the stitching lever a little too far once and a spring jumped out of place. When I did that, it would only stitch in one way. There is a cam drum in the middle almost on top that controls all that. Another possibility is something is too tight..... hard to say without seeing it. Let me know what you find.
Thanks for the video, it is very helpful for my efforts replacing gears on my 648. I'm stuck on removing the top vertical gear on my machine as it turns out to be secured with a roll pin instead of a set screw. All the other gears have set screws. It seems some 648 machines had set screw in that gear while others had a pin.
If you cant get to the gear on the opposite end or it doesnt have a set screw there at all, you will need a roll punch to drive that pin out.
@@More350Power Hi, thanks for the reply. I have since bought a used upright shaft and installed the new gear. This required a nearly complete disassembly of the machine which I was hesitant to do 8 months ago. Being shut in due to the pandemic this project gave me something interesting to concentrate on. I grew confidence over the months by purchasing two earlier machines with metal gears and becoming comfortable with them by cleaning and lubricating them, watching many videos, while studying and color coding multiple Singer Service manuals that I purchased along the way. Some service manuals reference things in earlier models, such as the 500 and 400 series. The insides are all similar with caveats. Each model machine has little "gotchas" but that is like everything else in life. Anyway, I now have the upright shaft with the metal remainder of the upright gear out of the machine. The roll pins were damaged way beyond roll punch help, I tried them as well. I'd really like to salvage the upright shaft itself if I can find some way of the removing the gear. I think it would need professional high quality tools, drills, etc. Perhaps someday I'll find a way but for now the machine is working and I have learned a lot about sewing machine repair on this and similar models. Thanks for your video!
@@aretro5751 Actually a "nail" is a good "tool" to remove a roll pin..
@@1953childstarAs I recall (back in the mists of time three years ago) a nail was not applicable in this scenario, but thanks anyway.
About time you get it in gear
Audio sounds better i can tell, No rattling. lol
It was made by dodge........ There are other changes you can see about half way through also....... remember fixed focus is what I was working with.....
Thanks for the video. I am trying to replace the gears in the bottom of my Singer 625 but am having problems getting the shaft out. I have removed to all of the set screws but the gears will not release. Any suggestions?
The set screws sometimes leave an indentation on the shaft that wont let the gears slide off. Sometimes I get them to release by taking all of the set screws out, use a little wd40 and try to get them to rotate on the shaft and work it off. Otherwise, you may have to cut it using a dremel being careful not to get the shavings into the rest of the machine.
My lower left gear screw is stripped and I’ve tried a multitude of different methods to try to get it out. Any suggestions?
Also what size hex screw did you use to remove the upper main gear? I tried to use a 1/16 on mine and it is still too big.
I was given the machine by a relative going into assistant living but I am very close to throwing it out.
Unfortunately I dont remember the size offhand, but I do know I was using metric sizes
I'm working on my grandmother's singer 646. It has a pin on the upper vertical shaft gear which I need to replace.. How do you remove that pin? I can't get it to budge. Thank you for your video. It is a pleasure learning from you.
Thank you for the kind comments ! What you are describing to me sounds like a " drift pin ". It is tapped into place and expands usually. Hard to say without seeing, though, they are usually tapped out using a punch or sorts that isnt as big as the pin, but not to small either that goes through the center of the pin. It could be permanent, but I would hope not. When you look at a drift pin you usually can see that it isnt a solid circle, but rather a " C " shaped pin that is compressed. Make sense ? Let me know.
I was able to punch out the pin. The gears have been replaced and we're up and running. Thank you again for your assistance.
Barbara Pollock hello I have the same pin on my sewing machine. How did you punch the pin out.? In having a difficult time removing it.
Great video but I'm having trouble getting the shaft out. Any suggestions
Sometimes if the shaft has rust on it.... and I found out recently sometimes when they stamp the model number on it or the name, that can cause the shaft not to slide. Which shaft are you working on and were you able to get the gears loose ?
Hey how would one go about replace it the connecting gear that connects to the main drive gear? The big one that.. it seems to be attached to a bar connected to the feed dog mechanism..
are you referring to the white nylon gear that appears at @5:00 in the video? The shaft that runs across to a cross cut gear that meshes with the power motor?
I have a Singer 625. Replaced the bad gears...both shafts did not slide out they way they do in the video. Vertical shaft slid enough to replace the gears. The horizontal shaft was tough to remove. Now I need to make adjustments to the position of the left and right gears and the won't budge even with the set screws removed. How can I get them loosened up?
Check and see if they have multiple set screws in each gear. I have seen some with two set screws or even a drift pin in them. It is possible that if the set screw was really cranked down on, that the indentation in the shaft it not letting it move. Sometimes, I have cautiously used a pair of vice grips or pliers and rotated the gears on the shaft to break them loose. I know there are subtle differences between models..... and be careful with where the shafts slide through as some have bronze / brass bushings installed with tight clearances..... Let me know what you find out.
I disassembled everything and stared over. Both shafts were already marked up.The vertical shaft in the center of the shaft was the "Singer" name and "part number" engraved in to the metal. This area caused the shaft to bind so I could not easily remove it. I had to go in the this are under the faceplate hole and wrap emery paper around the shaft to polish by hand. Woof. I took my time and polished them both, test fit 4-5 times to make sure they would clear the bushings etc and be seated in the flat spots on the shafts.. I was able to retime the machine and it makes a nice stitch. Does straight and ZZ and some of the other patterns but not all. So my next step is a general cleaning to see what that does for the problematic stitch patterns. If you know anything about this latest issue with limited stitch patterns,,,,, your advice would be appreciated. Thank you for responding to my earlier comment.
I never thought of the engraving of the name and number..... that would make sense though. The stitching patterns are controlled by the mechanism up in the top of the unit. I did not cover it in the video, but I did have to clean it, lubricate it with light machine oil, and check the springs. Once I did that the selectors moved smoothly and it worked all right. I know there are some adjustments in there that determine where the needle is to stop so as to not hit the plate and such. Let me know how you are coming along with your machine. I do apologize for the slow responses as I have not been around a computer as much lately.
I can't get the shaft out. I loosened all the set screws in the gears but the shaft will not budge. Any ideas?
Sometimes, the screws are over tightened and form a indentation on the shaft that keeps the gears from coming off. Sometimes I use spray lube and try to get the gears to rotate on the shaft and work them off..... other times, ive had to cut them with a dremel.
At 6:53 you say loosen up the set screw. Mine will not budge....is that normal? Seems like I am going to break my tool trying to loosen it.
VanessaCavett sounds like the set screw is too tight...... and you might break your tool ive broken quite a few.... sometimes you have to tighten it first then try to loosen it.... sometimes you might need to heat it up a bit..... or soak it with pb blaster
how to replace the gear set behine the bobbin hook case on a touch sewing machine 720
If I had access to one I could make a vid but I don’t so far
I have a 6212c That needs the gears replace do you have a video or know where I can get one thanks
Unfortunately I do not have a video on that. They are hard to come by it seems which is why I made this one. I would say search the internet good and not just youtube..... I have found random videos over the years that help out a lot. Parts may be different but the principles can be the same between different machines and that helps as well.
I don't know if this is a forum for questions, but i'm trying to learn more about machine repair. i'm a professional seamstress and have done repair on my Featherweight as well as tinkering on industrials when we have issues at work. anyway, here's my question: i have a Touch and Sew 603 (my first machine, actually) that has a needle that doesn't totally center when set to the center position. I've looked online for repair ideas, but to no avail. Do you have a source, or have any advice on how to re-align it? i'm going to tinker a bit today but since you're the first Touch and Sew repair video i found, i thought i'd ask. :-)
+Liz Cherry Hmmmm, when you say it doesnt " center " meaning when you set the stitch pattern to straight or regular as I call it.... the needle is not pointed in the straight stitch position, right in the middle of the presser foot ?
+More350Power Exactly, it's just to the right of center, not in the full right position but a bit less than 1/8" off to the right of center (and the center of the presser foot). jiggling the needle position switch will temporary realign it, but it then slips back to off center.
the machine stitches fine, and tension is good, just slightly off center.
clair has one shes had for over 30 years I have seen her use it 3 times lol
LOL, time for you to make a how to sew video Jay ! LOL or Clair....... I think more funny if you do it after you have had a few beers LOL
Does this machine have nylon or metal gears?
It has some nylon, but the others are a composite type gear for the most part.
I have commented on different videos in this series, but to add here...for what it is worth to allJust to note: rather than removing the bobbin winder side screw...it would be better to remove the two screws that secure it to the frame work, that way you retain mostly in part the correct bobbin winder driver height when engaged to wind a bobbin. The 620 did come with different versions of bobbin winders too, so mainly...remove the two screws that secure it to the frame of the machine instead. - Terry - www.tandtrepair.com
+Terry Fielding appreciate the feedback thanks !
We know if Terry F says it is so, we best heed. Thanks!
Thank you.
+Myra Thomas thank you for watching!
where part 3?
I have a few vids under the play list but I didn’t name them in order
Cool
Thanks Terry !
how to repair a 100year old sewing
Sad you have to do that.
Its still working to this day, thank you for watching!