Good deal...Of all your videos, my number one favorite is watching you do machining work of any kind. My second favorite is you dismantling, restoring and reassembling your tired and worn out toys to make them look new again.
Dang, Keith. I'm seriously envious of your collection of wrenches now. As if shop envy wasn't enough! All the complainers about mic noise need to spend a week or two with you in South Georgia during the dog days of summer. Miserable heat and bugs or not, my fingers itch I want so much to be in there with you helping out. Watching you restore these old machines is by far my favorite form of entertainment. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this restoration!
I grew up near Kalamazoo and my brother and sister went to college there. It appears the company is alive and well and still in Kalamazoo. So many companies have left that part of the world. I fear we will really regret the domestic manufacturing capabilities that are gone now.
Cool vid Keith. Just in case anyone is wondering,Kalamazoo is a city here in the southwest part of Michigan.They built the Checker taxi cabs there and have an AWESOME aircraft museum.I have family near there in Battle Creek-home of Kellogg's.
Man, that saw brings back memories. I repaired patterns for the Kalamazoo horizontal bandsaw when Liberty Foundry in St. Louis was casting the box base, the moving saw frame and the blade guard in cast iron. I see that your guard is sheetmetal -quite adequate and lighter, for sure than the cast model. These old patterns were all aluminum, loose molded, and set into in wood followboards, because they were low volume. I also modified the Wells-Index Milling Machine housing for Liberty. That is the gear housing that sets on the column. It's good to see old iron still being used. It was built to last, for sure. Glad they don't end up hanging on a wall in some up-scale restaurant where patrons say "What's the weird thing?"
Hey Keith, I enjoy watching you refurb stuff as every one does! I could care less about the "noise" that seems to bother so many, now to the point.... my suggestion for you stand feet it to take a couple of pieces of cypress or other woods and finish them out and attach your casters. It should act as a dampener and would put a nice custom touch on them, kinda like the metal trim at the bottom of you walls.... Just a thought. Keep on fixing and restoring......
A relatively straightforward restoration with a few video opportunity repairs must be a welcome sight. Looks like it'll be a great new addition to the shop.
Looks like a Unisaw handwheel may be the ticket....plenty of them around. Those are great bandsaws, but in addition..... keep your eye out for a Roll In Saw....they are great saws, and the pair would be extremely handy. I recently restored one, and it is an unbelievable saw ...each has it's own use.
Hiya Keith, the hammer thingy is called an 'Impact driver' here in the UK. A often used trick is to tighten first, you're only looking for a few thou but it can break the rust bond before going lefty... Keep up the great videos, I'm going through your back catalogue, very good. Take care...
Thanks, another great video. You are doing stuff that I always wanted to do but didn't have the time, room, or the money. So, you are fulfilling some of my dreams and I don't even have to get my hands dirty.
As always, lovely video Keith. I have a very similar Kalamazoo saw that has identical patterns of damage from the blade coming off the saw and slicing into the casting. In my case the cut pressure causes the blade to push up in the frame, and pivot against the rim of the drive wheel, forcing the other side of the blade off, where it can dig in while the saw is still running. Thats why the groove is so much less deep at the front side: the blade tends to stay on the wheel there while its busy cutting up the rest of the casting. I presume that this can be resolved by proper alignment of the wheels, but I've just slowed my feed down to keep the pressure off and that works nicely. (it wasn't on the saw you show, but these had a factory hydraulic feed cylinder, which is what the extra lever/rod on the base casting controlled). Cheers
Kieth, it looks like the casting that the blade has cut into also has a significant crack across it, radiating from the top right, 2 o'clock position back towards the center.
You keep me dreaming sir. I admire and appreciate your work so much! Your content helps me remember what my goals in life are. A true professional, or one of the best examples of a professional that I could find.
For Four decades i used an impact driver and probably wrecked a few things in the process, until I discovered the "old man Knocker" . I Made my own and to this day,even socket head bolts on Mercedes engines which are known to seize are mere bolts when faced with this tool. No bolt,screw etc remains stuck when faced with it and often it's only a couple of jolts to move even loctited bolts. When working on old stuff it's invaluable .
Never thought to use them for paint cans either. I still have vehicles that require brake spoons. I'll probably keep using mine for that purpose. Chris
Fun video, we had a couple of these band saws in a steel fabrication shop I worked at decades ago, we cut a lot of steel on these machines every day. Now we know why you make these videos, you can review them to help reassemble your project. :-)
The next time I have a stuck nut, I plan to try using a candle. I've seen guys use heat on a nut, then touch the threads of the bolt with a candle. The wax wicks in and it's easy to release. When you take apart the next one, give it a shot.
Good series, you don't see a quick adjustment mechanism as nice as that except for the very high end machines. My choice for that long groove repair would be aluminum bronze tig if possible, but that would require another road trip to Florida.
What you call a "hammer wrench", I know them to be called an "impact driver". I have a Blue Point / Snap-On one that I've owned for over 50 years.. Good tool for busting things loose.. Used it just a couple days ago.. You need to add an impact wrench to your arsenal.. Good for taking things a part.
Keith - restorations are great to watch. This should be another fun project. Will you be recording the sand blasting? I would like to see that process.
Maybe some threaded stem casters right in the bottom of the legs? With or without some stringers to tie the front legs to the rear if needed. Surplus Center has all kinds of casters for pretty cheap.
Three days ago I bought exact same three jaw press tool that you used. Very awesome tool way better than 2 jaw. Of course if you cant use 3 jaw then not so good.
Those impact driver things are handy! They work well enough that I'm considering getting one of those smaller electric impact guns. This does the same thing basically, its just completely manual, its got a mechanism inside that converts the straight down hit of the hammer into the rotating impact of an impact gun.
Keith, I've got the same saw that you have a P-45 Kalamazoo. on the vise it has a quick adjust so you can slide the jaw up to the metal you are cutting. you have to release the nut before you slide the jaw. that's what the little lever out by the hand wheel is for. lift it up and you can slide the jaw. flip it down and the nut is returned so you can continue tightening the jaw with the hand wheel. you are correct, the spring on the frame takes some tension of of the arm and it's common for them to break. Parts are still available through Kalamazoo. I am going to email you a parts manual in PDF format. our saws parts list is towards the end of the file. (Back Pages). I'll also send dome photographs of the switch and switch rod.
Hi there Kieth , that bandsaw looks to me to be the same as the wrecked one I acquired from a friend , I used the legs and the base for my Lathe ( nice and sturdy ) but there were parts I removed that I still have sitting in the spare steel pile , If I have something here you need I will see if we can get it over to you as I don't have a use for the bits that are left over
Keith I'm also a proud owner of one of these fine old saws. Mine has slight differences in the gearbox and bandwheel covers and retains the original hydraulic lowering ram. It has an oval brass plate riveted on the main base that says Vulcan 44. I wonder if this the year of manufacture? I began using mine very shortly after I bought it from a guy in southern Ohio close to where I live after a touching up on a few maintenance points. Really solid and quiet saw. As always, I enjoy your videos.
I believe that is the same term used here in the USA as well. I have one that is about 50 years old left over from the days when I worked on motorcycles fairly frequently (it was needed to get the case screws loose.)
Same here in North America...IMPACT DRIVER I bought my first one in 1975 when i started racing motorcycles....every bike mechanic ( or hobbyist ) needed one....they work best if you hold the tension in the direction it will turn..you put a little twist with your holding hand and whack it with the hammer hand....
I remember thinking when you were building the workshop that it was so big that you would probably store cars or similar. This before I realized you had a slight "problem" buying up old machinery.My 10 by 20 foot garage with no power or water is just not in the same league, one of the drawbacks of living in an urban area in the UK.
I have one of these saws, I had to take the gearbox apart to replace the output shaft, just a warning to you. There is a hidden snap ring in that keeps the gear in the proper place on the shaft.
Good advice. The shaft assembly has two tapered roller bearings with a brass worm gear nestled in between. Once the bearing on the threaded side of the shaft is pressed off toward the threads, the brass worm gear and the other set of bearings need to be pressed off 'away' from the threaded end of the shaft. You will then see that snap ring mentioned above. (There's a woodruff key set between the gear and the shaft also)
Keith, If you like, I could fix that handle. Just have to send it out here to California. We spoke at the bash about some of the theoretical welding concepts I am involved with through school.
Keith, did you notice the crack in the casting at 13:13 as a few others have pointed out? Hopefully its not so bad that it can't be easily brazed back up along with the rest of the damage from the bandsaw blades grinding against the casting and wearing that groove in. Bummer on the handwheel. :( I second the notion of the possibility of ramming up a cope and drag and firing up the foundry to cast a new handwheel for it, though it does look like brazing the handwheel back together is doable. Thank you bunches for letting the shop doggies get some screen time! ^^
Excellent video, thank your for using a tripod during you videos! What size blade options can you run on this P-45 band saw, and also could you measure the flat portion of drive wheel where the blade rides for me, thank you! I am trying to modify a saw and run a little wider blade and change to double roller 5200 series bearings to make a more accurate band saw. My saw does not have an eccentric for twist and uses only the one single bearing 6200 series side bearings and a carbide tugsten upper guide puck. Kalamazoo design. The older design series saws are better that allow the blade to be fine tuned for twist.
Hi Keith, if you don't mind me giving you a small piece of advise, I always put some support on the other side of the part (the big end of the tapper pin) to punch. Punching those old castings in the air is straight route to broken parts. Just my two cents. Cheers!
Really is hell on the bearing surfaces pounding on it like that. Doesnt seem critical in this particular application but still not the greatest practice (with all due respect Keith)
Yeap, I hate to be the guy who give advise from behind the keyboard, but I think is a good practice. I always have a block to rest the part on. It can be wood, plastic, whatever you have at hand. It improves the job a 100%.
Nice video Keith, thank you. Always amusing when whaling away on an item, and something else falls off -KerLANG - da-ding ding da-ding ding ding . . . WHAT ? Where did THAT come from ? ? Glad it's not just me :-)
Keith, when both roll up doors are open is there a natural draft produced along the length of your shop, as in breeze way? If you are going to use both saws to produce one, might as well go ahead and disassemble and blast the other. Good video, Rollie
Kieth, you already know how good Kroil is as I see you use it, why don't you just use a little on each fastener, pin or threaded item a day or so before you start your teardown. Even if an item is not stuck it makes the effort so much easier when un threading or prying things apart.
Usually i like to see videos in fast forward, but your videos are great with all the information and the details that you give that , they are like a doctorate in machine and fabrication....it would be a waste to watch them in fast forward...
Keith, the red bottom bar in your preview thumbnails looks very similar to the red bar youtube overlays there to show how much of the video I've already seen. So for one I can hardly find a video of yours which I have only partially seen and secondly I might mistake a video of yours as already seen and not watch it at all.
Check with Clausing for parts Keith. Some are still available although they are pricey$$! I was able to get some of the cast parts like the rocker block and various others for my 8"x16 from them. Only thing I could not get was the Kalamazoo name plate that rivets on the cover above the blade guides. I have been searching for quite a while with no results. If anyone knows where there is one at, please advise me where to look. Looks like a fun project Keith! Good luck!
I've had a similar but larger saw cut through my casting (all the way through causing a catastrophic crash) and i solved the solution by brazing and then putting ceramic pads on the path. I think the crown on my wheels might've worn out, but it's too big for me to swing on the lathe.
make a custom jig to hold it on the bench, turn it with a belt and a drill, and file the outside to get a crown again, lots of us dont have lathes to fix things!
On the wheel, you can use the other one to make a jig. Then you can fit the parts from this one and braze them back together. HECK, you could do a plaster casting on the lower part of the other wheel, and "pour" the braze in to give it shape on the front. I've done this with identical rocker arms on a milling machine (the things that set the travel distance).
I try to clamp or hold something that moves or rotates as your trying to remove a part....it makes it less ..frustrating...but actually is safer too...easy to slip or hurt yourself if things aren't steady or locked in place....or do damage to what your working on... Usually doesn't need anything fancy..just whatever works to assist you...( i worked alot alone so learned how to hold stuff with " only " 2 arms and hands )... A clamp and a block or a couple clamps etc....🤔
SEE you Soon!... I got the sand n Air if ya got the drive. It will be Diesel power this time; Not enough water to run the big Generator this time of year.
Good deal...Of all your videos, my number one favorite is watching you do machining work of any kind. My second favorite is you dismantling, restoring and reassembling your tired and worn out toys to make them look new again.
Dang, Keith. I'm seriously envious of your collection of wrenches now. As if shop envy wasn't enough!
All the complainers about mic noise need to spend a week or two with you in South Georgia during the dog days of summer.
Miserable heat and bugs or not, my fingers itch I want so much to be in there with you helping out. Watching you restore these old machines is by far my favorite form of entertainment.
Looking forward to seeing the rest of this restoration!
You're a part of folks thaat respect for old things that made us how we are now. Good to hear your words.
Tips like old, rusty screw removal can only come after decades of experience, thanks for sharing them!
I grew up near Kalamazoo and my brother and sister went to college there. It appears the company is alive and well and still in Kalamazoo. So many companies have left that part of the world. I fear we will really regret the domestic manufacturing capabilities that are gone now.
Cool vid Keith. Just in case anyone is wondering,Kalamazoo is a city here in the southwest part of Michigan.They built the Checker taxi cabs there and have an AWESOME aircraft museum.I have family near there in Battle Creek-home of Kellogg's.
Sure enjoy seeing you tear things down. Now we need to get it back together Kieth.
Man, that saw brings back memories. I repaired patterns for the Kalamazoo horizontal bandsaw when Liberty Foundry in St. Louis was casting the box base, the moving saw frame and the blade guard in cast iron. I see that your guard is sheetmetal -quite adequate and lighter, for sure than the cast model. These old patterns were all aluminum, loose molded, and set into in wood followboards, because they were low volume. I also modified the Wells-Index Milling Machine housing for Liberty. That is the gear housing that sets on the column. It's good to see old iron still being used. It was built to last, for sure. Glad they don't end up hanging on a wall in some up-scale restaurant where patrons say "What's the weird thing?"
"Steampunk". The sad death of cool old stuff, turned into trinkets du jour.
Those saws were MADE.
Will follow with interest.
Hey Keith, I enjoy watching you refurb stuff as every one does! I could care less about the "noise" that seems to bother so many, now to the point.... my suggestion for you stand feet it to take a couple of pieces of cypress or other woods and finish them out and attach your casters. It should act as a dampener and would put a nice custom touch on them, kinda like the metal trim at the bottom of you walls....
Just a thought. Keep on fixing and restoring......
yep no reason wood cant do the job, instead of metal!
Hey Keith, I grew up in Kalamazoo, I know this one well. Top notch !!! I'm going to love watching this come together. With high expectations, Cliff
Keith, love the creative use of the drum brake adjusting tool at 15:20!
A relatively straightforward restoration with a few video opportunity repairs must be a welcome sight. Looks like it'll be a great new addition to the shop.
I love the machinery restoration videos! Can hardly wait for the next installment. Keep 'em coming, Keith!
Looks like a Unisaw handwheel may be the ticket....plenty of them around. Those are great bandsaws, but in addition..... keep your eye out for a Roll In Saw....they are great saws, and the pair would be extremely handy. I recently restored one, and it is an unbelievable saw ...each has it's own use.
Hiya Keith, the hammer thingy is called an 'Impact driver' here in the UK. A often used trick is to tighten first, you're only looking for a few thou but it can break the rust bond before going lefty... Keep up the great videos, I'm going through your back catalogue, very good. Take care...
Great start to another renovation. Looking forward to watching your progress.
9:48 Interesting note, all woodruff Keyes are designed to SHEAR off when over loaded, .. this is why there is one on the bandsaw drive.
Thanks, another great video. You are doing stuff that I always wanted to do but didn't have the time, room, or the money.
So, you are fulfilling some of my dreams and I don't even have to get my hands dirty.
Good job Keith. Always great to see when you strip a machine down. Looking forward to the next video :)
As always, lovely video Keith. I have a very similar Kalamazoo saw that has identical patterns of damage from the blade coming off the saw and slicing into the casting. In my case the cut pressure causes the blade to push up in the frame, and pivot against the rim of the drive wheel, forcing the other side of the blade off, where it can dig in while the saw is still running. Thats why the groove is so much less deep at the front side: the blade tends to stay on the wheel there while its busy cutting up the rest of the casting. I presume that this can be resolved by proper alignment of the wheels, but I've just slowed my feed down to keep the pressure off and that works nicely. (it wasn't on the saw you show, but these had a factory hydraulic feed cylinder, which is what the extra lever/rod on the base casting controlled). Cheers
Using a drum brake adjusting spoon to pry the various pieces off is a good idea!
Kieth, it looks like the casting that the blade has cut into also has a significant crack across it, radiating from the top right, 2 o'clock position back towards the center.
Amazing how you stuck with it! Good work Keith!
You keep me dreaming sir. I admire and appreciate your work so much! Your content helps me remember what my goals in life are. A true professional, or one of the best examples of a professional that I could find.
Marvelous job, tool and video. Thanks much for sharing. Outstanding!
For Four decades i used an impact driver and probably wrecked a few things in the process, until I discovered the "old man Knocker" . I Made my own and to this day,even socket head bolts on Mercedes engines which are known to seize are mere bolts when faced with this tool. No bolt,screw etc remains stuck when faced with it and often it's only a couple of jolts to move even loctited bolts. When working on old stuff it's invaluable .
Awesome ! Can't wait to see it finished !!!
I hope you are not enduring the 90+ degrees we are up here! Good video, I always enjoy your renovation projects, very informative. Thanks!
Oh no, it is never 90+ in Georgia!
I didn't think so...always in the low 70s and low humidity right?!
Nice tear down Keith. enjoyed this content.
I enjoyed part one Keith.
I'll follow along to see how this old girl turns out.
Thanks
Really enjoy your work.
Eric
central Florida
I use a dead blow.. the big orange hammer.. a thing of beauty...
Never thought of using my brake spoons as pry bars before! 15:13 Chris
They are also great for opening paint cans. Haven't used mine on brakes for years.
Never thought to use them for paint cans either. I still have vehicles that require brake spoons. I'll probably keep using mine for that purpose. Chris
Ahhh waking up to a new video :D Brew some coffee and watch the entertainment. Thanks for the videos Keith!
Beautiful shop dogs :) Looking forward to seeing this thing like new; looks like a very sensible candidate for a terrific restoration.
Fun video, we had a couple of these band saws in a steel fabrication shop I worked at decades ago, we cut a lot of steel on these machines every day. Now we know why you make these videos, you can review them to help reassemble your project. :-)
The next time I have a stuck nut, I plan to try using a candle. I've seen guys use heat on a nut, then touch the threads of the bolt with a candle. The wax wicks in and it's easy to release. When you take apart the next one, give it a shot.
Good series, you don't see a quick adjustment mechanism as nice as that except for the very high end machines. My choice for that long groove repair would be aluminum bronze tig if possible, but that would require another road trip to Florida.
Looking forward to seeing the balance of this project
aRM
Keith I have a similar saw and I put three casters on instead of four so you don't have a chances of the saw wanting to teeter on unlevel surfaces.
What you call a "hammer wrench", I know them to be called an "impact driver". I have a Blue Point / Snap-On one that I've owned for over 50 years.. Good tool for busting things loose.. Used it just a couple days ago.. You need to add an impact wrench to your arsenal.. Good for taking things a part.
Keith - restorations are great to watch. This should be another fun project. Will you be recording the sand blasting? I would like to see that process.
Maybe some threaded stem casters right in the bottom of the legs? With or without some stringers to tie the front legs to the rear if needed. Surplus Center has all kinds of casters for pretty cheap.
Three days ago I bought exact same three jaw press tool that you used. Very awesome tool way better than 2 jaw. Of course if you cant use 3 jaw then not so good.
That blacksmith fella down at the museum may be able to make that spring for you!
nice project have Fun!!! can`t wait to see it done.
it's going to some work , But what a great machine Keith ! Thumbs up man..
thanks for the disassembly tutorial, pretty simple set up really.
Those impact driver things are handy! They work well enough that I'm considering getting one of those smaller electric impact guns. This does the same thing basically, its just completely manual, its got a mechanism inside that converts the straight down hit of the hammer into the rotating impact of an impact gun.
The cheap ones aren't up to much though - Got to spend a bit for a quality tool.
John Peedle there really is a lot of truth to the saying you get what you pay for
Keith,
I've got the same saw that you have a P-45 Kalamazoo. on the vise it has a quick adjust so you can slide the jaw up to the metal you are cutting. you have to release the nut before you slide the jaw. that's what the little lever out by the hand wheel is for. lift it up and you can slide the jaw. flip it down and the nut is returned so you can continue tightening the jaw with the hand wheel.
you are correct, the spring on the frame takes some tension of of the arm and it's common for them to break.
Parts are still available through Kalamazoo. I am going to email you a parts manual in PDF format. our saws parts list is towards the end of the file. (Back Pages). I'll also send dome photographs of the switch and switch rod.
If screws are tight, do them up quarter turn before undoing. It breaks the corrosion/paint without damaging head.
Is it bad that I'm kinda glad you have to repair the wheel? I look forward to that repair!
Hi there Kieth , that bandsaw looks to me to be the same as the wrecked one I acquired from a friend , I used the legs and the base for my Lathe ( nice and sturdy ) but there were parts I removed that I still have sitting in the spare steel pile , If I have something here you need I will see if we can get it over to you as I don't have a use for the bits that are left over
nice job so far keep up the great videos
Keith I'm also a proud owner of one of these fine old saws. Mine has slight differences in the gearbox and bandwheel covers and retains the original hydraulic lowering ram. It has an oval brass plate riveted on the main base that says Vulcan 44. I wonder if this the year of manufacture? I began using mine very shortly after I bought it from a guy in southern Ohio close to where I live after a touching up on a few maintenance points. Really solid and quiet saw. As always, I enjoy your videos.
Mr K over in the UK we call it an IMPACT DRIVER
I believe that is the same term used here in the USA as well. I have one that is about 50 years old left over from the days when I worked on motorcycles fairly frequently (it was needed to get the case screws loose.)
Totally impossible to get a motorcycle engine apart without one! That and a 2lb lump hammer are your best friend.
Same in NZ
Same here in North America...IMPACT DRIVER
I bought my first one in 1975 when i started racing motorcycles....every bike mechanic ( or hobbyist ) needed one....they work best if you hold the tension in the direction it will turn..you put a little twist with your holding hand and whack it with the hammer hand....
I remember thinking when you were building the workshop that it was so big that you would probably store cars or similar. This before I realized you had a slight "problem" buying up old machinery.My 10 by 20 foot garage with no power or water is just not in the same league, one of the drawbacks of living in an urban area in the UK.
Ahh I love the restore projects, soo satisfying to watch! thanks for sharing!
Nice project Keith - Those Impact drivers are a God send at times - You can mold a brass wheel can`t you ?
Hammer wrench is a VERY cool tool! Got to git me one of 'em!
Actually I believe it's called an impact screwdriver. ebay has a bunch.
I have one of these saws, I had to take the gearbox apart to replace the output shaft, just a warning to you. There is a hidden snap ring in that keeps the gear in the proper place on the shaft.
Good advice. The shaft assembly has two tapered roller bearings with a brass worm gear nestled in between. Once the bearing on the threaded side of the shaft is pressed off toward the threads, the brass worm gear and the other set of bearings need to be pressed off 'away' from the threaded end of the shaft. You will then see that snap ring mentioned above. (There's a woodruff key set between the gear and the shaft also)
Keith,
If you like, I could fix that handle. Just have to send it out here to California. We spoke at the bash about some of the theoretical welding concepts I am involved with through school.
Keith, you need another arbor press?
I don't think 3 is enough.
Seriously, good show (again.)
steve
Keith, did you notice the crack in the casting at 13:13 as a few others have pointed out? Hopefully its not so bad that it can't be easily brazed back up along with the rest of the damage from the bandsaw blades grinding against the casting and wearing that groove in. Bummer on the handwheel. :( I second the notion of the possibility of ramming up a cope and drag and firing up the foundry to cast a new handwheel for it, though it does look like brazing the handwheel back together is doable.
Thank you bunches for letting the shop doggies get some screen time! ^^
he needs a reason to get his furnace tested for a bit of casting
Nice vid keith!
keith nice dismantle job.
I found a 13aw missing the guides and the lead screw wish you had full repair video of this machine
Hi Keith just wondering when you are going to finish doing the screw thread for the cross slide for the lathe.
Came apart pretty easy. nice project.
Awesome Keith never miss an episode of your video's very Interesting
Excellent video, thank your for using a tripod during you videos! What size blade options can you run on this P-45 band saw, and also could you measure the flat portion of drive wheel where the blade rides for me, thank you! I am trying to modify a saw and run a little wider blade and change to double roller 5200 series bearings to make a more accurate band saw. My saw does not have an eccentric for twist and uses only the one single bearing 6200 series side bearings and a carbide tugsten upper guide puck. Kalamazoo design. The older design series saws are better that allow the blade to be fine tuned for twist.
I wonder if you could cast a new handle using your foundry? It would be a neat project! Chris
A brass handle would be a real pretty addition!
You might be able to take the leftover parts from the other saw and turn it into a vertical saw
Hi Keith, if you don't mind me giving you a small piece of advise, I always put some support on the other side of the part (the big end of the tapper pin) to punch. Punching those old castings in the air is straight route to broken parts. Just my two cents.
Cheers!
Really is hell on the bearing surfaces pounding on it like that. Doesnt seem critical in this particular application but still not the greatest practice (with all due respect Keith)
Yeap, I hate to be the guy who give advise from behind the keyboard, but I think is a good practice. I always have a block to rest the part on. It can be wood, plastic, whatever you have at hand. It improves the job a 100%.
Those taper pins can be a hand full. Especially when you can't quite tell which end is the smaller...
Nice video Keith, thank you.
Always amusing when whaling away on an item, and something else falls off -KerLANG - da-ding ding da-ding ding ding . . . WHAT ? Where did THAT come from ? ? Glad it's not just me :-)
THANK YOU...for sharing.
I have a p46 saw and I love it. Other than the motor on it which I assume to be the original seem tired. It a baldor.
Love to stumble across a good deal on a old band saw like this. Can these b used in a vertical.
Keith, when both roll up doors are open is there a natural draft produced along the length of your shop, as in breeze way?
If you are going to use both saws to produce one, might as well go ahead and disassemble and blast the other.
Good video,
Rollie
Keith, it really looks like you now own a 'Gal From Kalamazoo zoo-zoo-zoo-zoo'! Sorry, could not resist! lol
Hi Keith, watch all your videos, and love them. Can you tell me the name of the impact or hammer wrench and where i can purchase it. Thanks
Yep, that was exactly what I was thinking🤔
Kieth, you already know how good Kroil is as I see you use it, why don't you just use a little on each fastener, pin or threaded item a day or so before you start your teardown. Even if an item is not stuck it makes the effort so much easier when un threading or prying things apart.
Your cordless impact wrench is your friend - get some bits for disassembly (adapters for 3/8 sockets)
Those old machines were made heavy. I am sure it (they) will make you a good saw. Greg
Usually i like to see videos in fast forward, but your videos are great with all the information and the details that you give that , they are like a doctorate in machine and fabrication....it would be a waste to watch them in fast forward...
Fast work (y) :) And nice work.
Keith, the red bottom bar in your preview thumbnails looks very similar to the red bar youtube overlays there to show how much of the video I've already seen. So for one I can hardly find a video of yours which I have only partially seen and secondly I might mistake a video of yours as already seen and not watch it at all.
Good evening from SE Louisiana 10 May 21.
Check with Clausing for parts Keith. Some are still available although they are pricey$$! I was able to get some of the cast parts like the rocker block and various others for my 8"x16 from them. Only thing I could not get was the Kalamazoo name plate that rivets on the cover above the blade guides. I have been searching for quite a while with no results. If anyone knows where there is one at, please advise me where to look. Looks like a fun project Keith! Good luck!
Hey Keith, audio sounds great again! What was the outcome with your camera?
I've had a similar but larger saw cut through my casting (all the way through causing a catastrophic crash) and i solved the solution by brazing and then putting ceramic pads on the path. I think the crown on my wheels might've worn out, but it's too big for me to swing on the lathe.
make a custom jig to hold it on the bench, turn it with a belt and a drill, and file the outside to get a crown again, lots of us dont have lathes to fix things!
On the wheel, you can use the other one to make a jig. Then you can fit the parts from this one and braze them back together. HECK, you could do a plaster casting on the lower part of the other wheel, and "pour" the braze in to give it shape on the front. I've done this with identical rocker arms on a milling machine (the things that set the travel distance).
at 13:13 is that a crack in the upper right hand corner at about 2 o'clock
great video keith
yep i saw that too, hope he sees it when he preps for the large braze repair
It looks like a crack to me
It might be from the casting.
;hard to tell if its casting, or dirt ridge etc, but keith im sure is aware and will see it for sure when its clean.
Looks like it is also cracked to the left of that reinforced area. :-(
I try to clamp or hold something that moves or rotates as your trying to remove a part....it makes it less ..frustrating...but actually is safer too...easy to slip or hurt yourself if things aren't steady or locked in place....or do damage to what your working on...
Usually doesn't need anything fancy..just whatever works to assist you...( i worked alot alone so learned how to hold stuff with " only " 2 arms and hands )... A clamp and a block or a couple clamps etc....🤔
SEE you Soon!... I got the sand n Air if ya got the drive. It will be Diesel power this time; Not enough water to run the big Generator this time of year.
I see the shop supervisors finally showed up. lol
keith - When will we see part 2?
nice to have free time to play
You could cast a new handle ( project for your new foundry)
Please fix the mike/sound recording problem. I assume it's fan noise, if so, add a foam wind screen. I do love your videos! Thanks!
I *think* it's his breathing somewhat laboured after a little effort.
Not a healthy sound . . . .