Absolutely brilliant - exactly what I was looking for thank you as a refresher - I will say this: This is the best channel without exception for flash. I wasn't sure that I would warm to Pye, I feared he would be too cool and smug, (as many other's working in this medium very often are, I name no names) but he turns out to be an excellent teacher, very down to earth, explains everything very very well, very clearly. Not a moment of patronising showboating, examples for everything. The models / talent (what ever is the correct name) are obviously top professionals, and clearly he has a good (working) relationship with them (unlike many others working in this medium, again I name no names). This is the only channel anyone needs to learn flash photography, look no further. You have arrived.
Nope. Not only can you see the mic, and you can hear the cars driving by, and the wind sound, it’s very obviously not ADR/voiceover - you can see just by watching that it’s original audio. This is a combination of a) the right high end microphone AND receiving equipment (you can’t cheap-out on either), and b) proper audio treatment & cleanup as needed in post production, with the right software when needed. Use the right equipment and the right techniques, and treat the material properly in post, and this is what happens.
Wow this was awesome, so clear to understand. Love the CAMP idea, not heard that one before. Straight to it and no fluff. Also I agree the magnet action is 👌I always attach and detach mine a few times when putting it onto my speed light
Great VID! My problem with this small light source is you have to position the light in such a way that it falls flat on the face. If you position this small light source at a 45 degree angle with the subject looking straight on you get unpleasant harsh shadows. In your shot the model is looking to the side and in the direction of the flash which does not cause harsh shadows. So in my opinion it does work, but light placement is crucial. Am I missing something?
Thanks for this video❤! I just have a question. Is there any difference between magmod dom and Godox ML-CD15 Dome? I would love to buy the kit one day, but it's way too expensive. Is there many differences? Regards😊
I wish I would have seen this (should have had the bell on) before I went out to practice with my flash a week and a half ago! How far do you normally put your flash away from the subject? It also looked like it was perpendicular to the subject, does this change based on look or is that the best place?
I do the same thing except I ask my model's angle and light the short side. And i I try my best to make my artificial light seamless as much as possible. I love this tutorial 😊.
thank you for showing us these useful concepts! I do not completely understand the utility of magsphere. Shouldn't be almost the same look without it? Flash is far from model and surface emitting area does not increase so much thanks
yes. bad product placement. the point of the mag sphere is to bounce some light off axis for use inside with white walls to give you both a directional light as well as ambient fill with only one strobe. outside it does nothing other than reduce your power output since there aren't any surfaces to bounce the light off of
super tuto ! generally we see videos darkening ambiance so nice to see the reverse. I am surprised in hss at 2m distance 1/4 power with magsphere you can deliver enough light on the face.
It is nice to see how one can achieve a lot of different looks, they they don't always have to be the dark and dramatic shots. Flash can even be used to balance with ambient and make your awesome shots even better! Thanks for commenting @marclabro
As always Pye, a good video. I have a lot of people on my workshops that referee to your videos and tell me how they get a lot of knowledge and inspiration from them.
How do you decide how far to place the flash and the angle? Is it even with her eye level? Pointed down a bit? Just wondering how you decide where to place this small light source.
I wondered the same thing. Different pros have various opinions on where and what level to place the light. Guess its a personal preference? The images are gorgeous.
This was great! Lots of ideas. But i'm trying to set get up to do my own photography outside and not in studio anymore. Any tips? Or videos on how to learn flash and lighting for beginners?
Question: why using manual flash and not ttl? (if flash too strong use flash compensation, no?) What is the difference between manual flash and ttl flash for outdoor portrait? Why did you choose that one rather than the other using high speed sync? Thank you!
Although I am not Pye, I will answer why I tend to use manual flash and not TTL in this kind of setting (off-camera flash in an outdoor setting). Sometimes TTL can be a little unpredictable (who knows, maybe TTL flash is very consistent now with certain flash companies lol). Here is an example... I may be happy with one picture using TTL, the amount of power I used in it, but I would hate if I was happy with my first shot but then the following 5-10 images were a little over exposed, and some underexposed, thinking I exposed my shot correctly with the flash that I used the first time. I would rather have consistent amount of flash coming out every single time and let me make the adjustments when needed. I personally have an idea how much power I need to use with different lighting situations. An issue I could see happening is... I am shooting a person head on, got the exposure correct, my camera exposure meter in the middle etc... but then once I move the camera more down and point my camera up, more of the sky is showing, so my camera meter may change a lot, and my flash TTL auto setting may also change a lot because it's using TTL. I could see TTL coming in handy on a sunny day with clouds coming in and out of the scene, and yes-it's probably faster to work with because it it's automatically adjusting the flash power, but sometimes people want full control and more consistent results, so they use manual. You will most likely see a lot of photographers that have been around for a while use manual flashes because they are generally cheaper and been out since forever. I use TTL when I am using my flash on top of my camera and shooting events. Of course I use flash compensation depending if I am bouncing my flash or not.
Hi Pye thanks for sharing love your videos because you explain everything in layman's terms and terms that people can understand. Cheers Mark from Australia 😀
This is great, Pye! My girlfriend/model doesn't like shots with flash because they don't look natural (just like you said at the beginning). So now I have a better idea of how to do it. Can it be done without high speed synch? My speedlight (easy to take to the field) has HSS but I fear that it doesn't have enough power for a shot at 1/1000 sec.
@@randyhurlburt absolutely. An ND filter is primarily used to maintain a low shutter speed and a large aperture. If your depth of field is not of interest, increase the f-stop and avoid the ND
There are benefits to using modifiers, which Pye has covered in other videos. Definitely check out the video about using each of the MagMod modifiers on the same model to see the results of using the different modifiers, or even bare flash.
No. All it does here is further reduce the flash power. (which you can do many other ways) (modifiers like that can be very useful indoors and near walls, but not so much in open spaces)
Thanks, very helpful tutorial. But I don’t understand how the diffuser would provide any added value outside because whatever light diffusion that propagates will scatter into the ether before it reaches your subject. I would think diffusion would work only on a large softbox much closer to your subject. I’d like to see a comparison with & without the diffuser.
It doesn't provide any value outdoors at all. So many photographers (pros and amateurs) get this wrong all the time. It is hilarious to me, I think to myself, "wow, these people really do not study light in it's entirety" lol. You are correct, diffusion panels on a softbox diffuse a small light to make it bigger (which creates soft light) and omni-directional diffusers simply spread light in all directions to bounce off of things (indoors only). The magsphere outdoors is a total waste of time and effort. It's bouncing light off of nothing (wasted light) and the only photons hitting the subject are the ones going straight to the subject from a small source. So using the flash bare will achieve the same effect (just control the power output). The shadows will be identical with or without the magsphere. He also mentioned less specularity in the video which is in fact false. Specularity is nothing more than a total reflection of the light source. The more reflective the surface and the brighter the source, the more specularity you get no matter what modifier you have. It is only controlled by power output, distance, how matte the surface is, and knowledge of the inverse square law. You can have a softbox be specular and a silver umbrella have hardly no specularity. It is all about knowing what you're doing.
@@JEDINITE30You're right, except in the parts where you're wrong, ie. the magsphere doing nothing outdoors. It does when it's pointed towards the subject, as in this video, try it for yourself. Or search for youtube videos on this, there are plenty.
@@viezure10 I have, I own a few of em. And I have done tests. You can get the same shadows, highlights, look, everything, with or without it. It is all a matter of settings. Do you know the actual scientific reason why soft shadows come from large light sources?
Hmm interesting so basically usually its taught to compensate 2 stops underexposed on the camera when using flash. I assume that's for the dramatic side of things.
You are correct that the best subtle use of flash outside is to Brigit in from the same side as the sun - it will blend more naturally and look less 'lit' that way...
WOW. As a retired pro Advertising photographer. You sure made it complicated. It’s called balanced light for a reason. Take a light meter ,reading. And set the camera and strobe to match.Tada,you’re done. I did 8X10 format,interiors for years. Balance the exterior outside light,to match the interior,your done. Light meter/strobe meter,works wonders. No insult intended.
that little diffuser does not do anything but reduce the flash power. i use AD200 with fresnel lens on stand with an assistant for run n gun couple shoots outdoors. tons of power. the light is hard but matches the sun's hard light on clothing and things around them.
I don't see how such a small speedlight (I have the same) could brighten up the model on such a sunny day. And then putting something on it that even reduces the light output by one stop ? Sounds crazy. I guess it could only add a bit of fill light.
Speedlights bare and at a reasonable distance can overpower the sun in this situation. But you are correct, the magsphere only reduces the output. It doesn't provide any value outdoors at all. So many photographers (pros and amateurs) get this wrong all the time. It is hilarious to me, I think to myself, "wow, these people really do not study light in it's entirety" lol. The magsphere outdoors is a total waste of time and effort. It's bouncing light off of nothing (wasted light) and the only photons hitting the subject are the ones going straight to the subject from a small source. So using the flash bare will achieve the same effect (just control the power output). The shadows will be identical with or without the magsphere.
@@JEDINITE30 Exactly my thoughts ! I don't see why you'd put a piece of Tupperware on your flash :-). I love my Godox V1 but it's only useful indoors where there is not a lot of light (for instance wedding parties). Outdoors I'd use the AD200 or AD400.
@@wanneske1969 exactly! For those that only have a speed light, they can make it work, but it will be more difficult and the recycle times will be long. Putting an unnecessary stoploss modifier on the front is counterproductive.
Would have been nice to order the correct adaptor in the beginning! I have no use for a Bowen and why would anyone want it if they already have it. Just saying.
*This is 2023, not 2003, where everyone understands lighting better, there's nothing to hide here, I'm just an ordinary photographer in Vietnam, but if any experts In this world, if you use Magmod in a situation like in the video, I guarantee that no one can shoot better than me* *I only use 1 tripod $20, 1 reflector that can be attached to the tripod $10 total $30, of course I can use this accessory set for more purposes* *It's not that I'm too confident about myself, but if anyone really cares about light and understands light, the so-called Flash diffuse does not exist, this was explained by the Chairman of Nikkon Vietnam at the final ceremony. year (I remember correctly it was 2009, I'm still in contact with him to this day)* *If you feel offended, you can block me, but that just makes me feel like I understand light better than anyone else.*
Adding the MagSphere barely adds any real size to the light, and wastes a ton of flash power by scattering the light outdoors where there are no surfaces to reflect it back. Inside in a smallish room the reflections off of walls/ceiling can help to create a softer big source- outdoors it is simply under powering your flash with no benefit.
Boosting the power of the flash with the magsphere is perfect. It’s the soft light you want. I know it zaps the power, yet it’s not as harsh as the flash even on lower settings.
poerava, physics says your wrong. Larger is softer and the magsphere in this instance is small. It may diffuse light but it doesn't soften light. I also agree with the notion that there's a lot of wasted light, it's an omni-bounce diffuser and it's better used in a room environment, not outside.
Not strait to the points, like intentional straying, then the lack of blending in the exposure values in the "three shots side by side" although meant to resume and consolidate the reasonings. And high-speed sync is a real prerequisite in this "tutorial', and shuld be clearly mentioned as such (not necessarily explained). Here it only fills and fills in soothing incitement to buy ..or earn him points.... I'm astound to have to come to this conclusion.
Pye Jirsa = Master Yoda of Photography. Man, I learn so much from you on every single video!
loving how he didn’t use the magsphere at all, but magmod still posted this amazing piece of knowledge
You are just one of my favorite teachers of all things photography!
Absolutely brilliant - exactly what I was looking for thank you as a refresher - I will say this:
This is the best channel without exception for flash. I wasn't sure that I would warm to Pye, I feared he would be too cool and smug, (as many other's working in this medium very often are, I name no names) but he turns out to be an excellent teacher, very down to earth, explains everything very very well, very clearly. Not a moment of patronising showboating, examples for everything. The models / talent (what ever is the correct name) are obviously top professionals, and clearly he has a good (working) relationship with them (unlike many others working in this medium, again I name no names).
This is the only channel anyone needs to learn flash photography, look no further. You have arrived.
Per usual, great instructions! I love the way that you "dive" into your explanations without wasting words or boasting about self!
Never heard of camp but I'm going to use it. Thanks. Btw i shoot with the same camera setup. Great combo. It's my go to.
this is beautiful explained :D. Thank you for this wonderful tutorial.
We are glad you enjoyed it!
Did you do an audio voiceover? This audio sounds way to clean to be outside. You can even see the wind blowing in the background. Very impressive!
Nope. Not only can you see the mic, and you can hear the cars driving by, and the wind sound, it’s very obviously not ADR/voiceover - you can see just by watching that it’s original audio. This is a combination of a) the right high end microphone AND receiving equipment (you can’t cheap-out on either), and b) proper audio treatment & cleanup as needed in post production, with the right software when needed. Use the right equipment and the right techniques, and treat the material properly in post, and this is what happens.
Wow this was awesome, so clear to understand. Love the CAMP idea, not heard that one before. Straight to it and no fluff. Also I agree the magnet action is 👌I always attach and detach mine a few times when putting it onto my speed light
LOVE your tutorials, Pye!!
Pye you are an awesome teacher!
Great VID! My problem with this small light source is you have to position the light in such a way that it falls flat on the face. If you position this small light source at a 45 degree angle with the subject looking straight on you get unpleasant harsh shadows. In your shot the model is looking to the side and in the direction of the flash which does not cause harsh shadows. So in my opinion it does work, but light placement is crucial. Am I missing something?
Thanks for this video❤! I just have a question. Is there any difference between magmod dom and Godox ML-CD15 Dome? I would love to buy the kit one day, but it's way too expensive. Is there many differences? Regards😊
This really helped out things into perspective both for composition and flash use!
I wish I would have seen this (should have had the bell on) before I went out to practice with my flash a week and a half ago!
How far do you normally put your flash away from the subject? It also looked like it was perpendicular to the subject, does this change based on look or is that the best place?
Great video. Your direction is straight forward and easy to follow. Inspirational!
Master and Commander = Pye
I do the same thing except I ask my model's angle and light the short side. And i I try my best to make my artificial light seamless as much as possible. I love this tutorial 😊.
Profoto A1 is a discontinued model as of now but is it a good idea to use speedlite in HSS mode ?
thank you for showing us these useful concepts!
I do not completely understand the utility of magsphere.
Shouldn't be almost the same look without it? Flash is far from model and surface emitting area does not increase so much
thanks
yes. bad product placement. the point of the mag sphere is to bounce some light off axis for use inside with white walls to give you both a directional light as well as ambient fill with only one strobe. outside it does nothing other than reduce your power output since there aren't any surfaces to bounce the light off of
Thank you for this video. It was definitely inspiring and you are always such a great teacher. It's much appreciated
super tuto ! generally we see videos darkening ambiance so nice to see the reverse. I am surprised in hss at 2m distance 1/4 power with magsphere you can deliver enough light on the face.
It is nice to see how one can achieve a lot of different looks, they they don't always have to be the dark and dramatic shots. Flash can even be used to balance with ambient and make your awesome shots even better! Thanks for commenting @marclabro
As always Pye, a good video. I have a lot of people on my workshops that referee to your videos and tell me how they get a lot of knowledge and inspiration from them.
How do you decide how far to place the flash and the angle? Is it even with her eye level? Pointed down a bit? Just wondering how you decide where to place this small light source.
I wondered the same thing. Different pros have various opinions on where and what level to place the light. Guess its a personal preference? The images are gorgeous.
These are very helpful. I love the concise approach. One question…would you not use an ND filter to possibly change exposure and still use flash?
You could if you wanted to use say for example a lower f/stop. It's definitely another way to do it.
Love the magnetic diffusers. Have a couple for my Godox V1.
We love ya back!
This was great! Lots of ideas. But i'm trying to set get up to do my own photography outside and not in studio anymore. Any tips? Or videos on how to learn flash and lighting for beginners?
Yep!, same here. Would LOVE a video on learning flash basics (on-camera as well as OCF) please!!!!
Question: why using manual flash and not ttl? (if flash too strong use flash compensation, no?) What is the difference between manual flash and ttl flash for outdoor portrait? Why did you choose that one rather than the other using high speed sync? Thank you!
Although I am not Pye, I will answer why I tend to use manual flash and not TTL in this kind of setting (off-camera flash in an outdoor setting). Sometimes TTL can be a little unpredictable (who knows, maybe TTL flash is very consistent now with certain flash companies lol).
Here is an example... I may be happy with one picture using TTL, the amount of power I used in it, but I would hate if I was happy with my first shot but then the following 5-10 images were a little over exposed, and some underexposed, thinking I exposed my shot correctly with the flash that I used the first time. I would rather have consistent amount of flash coming out every single time and let me make the adjustments when needed. I personally have an idea how much power I need to use with different lighting situations. An issue I could see happening is... I am shooting a person head on, got the exposure correct, my camera exposure meter in the middle etc... but then once I move the camera more down and point my camera up, more of the sky is showing, so my camera meter may change a lot, and my flash TTL auto setting may also change a lot because it's using TTL.
I could see TTL coming in handy on a sunny day with clouds coming in and out of the scene, and yes-it's probably faster to work with because it it's automatically adjusting the flash power, but sometimes people want full control and more consistent results, so they use manual.
You will most likely see a lot of photographers that have been around for a while use manual flashes because they are generally cheaper and been out since forever.
I use TTL when I am using my flash on top of my camera and shooting events. Of course I use flash compensation depending if I am bouncing my flash or not.
This was very useful. Thanks.
Great tip my man! And great video.
Hey Pye are you watching your histogram for clipping in the highlights in case you need to brighten your subject in post?
Hi Pye thanks for sharing love your videos because you explain everything in layman's terms and terms that people can understand. Cheers Mark from Australia 😀
Pye is a masterful teacher!
Good video 📸💪
Explain why you placed the light to the right and side of her and not to the left in front of her
Hello awesome shots. Are you using a ND filter on your lens?
Would you say that the MagSphere gives better light quality than the click dome on the ProFoto A1?
Great Video!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Another great video! Did you have your flash directly pointed at her face? Or was it feathered a bit to make it softer?
it would very helpful to see meter and histogram for ambient
with a sunrise light have you edited the color of the flash in ps? because of his 5600k temperature color..
Thanks Sir Pye
This is a very good video!
This is great, Pye! My girlfriend/model doesn't like shots with flash because they don't look natural (just like you said at the beginning). So now I have a better idea of how to do it. Can it be done without high speed synch? My speedlight (easy to take to the field) has HSS but I fear that it doesn't have enough power for a shot at 1/1000 sec.
Yes you’d just need an ND filter to keep your shutter speed at your flash sync speed
@@mattfetts Thanks! Can you increase f-stop and thereby avoid using an ND filter?
@@randyhurlburt absolutely. An ND filter is primarily used to maintain a low shutter speed and a large aperture. If your depth of field is not of interest, increase the f-stop and avoid the ND
Thanks @mattfetts for helping out. Glad you enjoyed the video @randyhurlburt
Brilliant explanation
Amazing as always
Do we have to have a magsphere 2
There are benefits to using modifiers, which Pye has covered in other videos. Definitely check out the video about using each of the MagMod modifiers on the same model to see the results of using the different modifiers, or even bare flash.
No. All it does here is further reduce the flash power. (which you can do many other ways)
(modifiers like that can be very useful indoors and near walls, but not so much in open spaces)
Gracias por poner traducción en español, me encantan tus videos.
I was hoping to learn about ambiance settings.
Inspiring video, Thank you
What was the zoom range of flash
not sure why one would not put the flash on the same side as where the sunshine is coming from. If it's on the opposite side, it looks obviously lit.
Thanks, very helpful tutorial. But I don’t understand how the diffuser would provide any added value outside because whatever light diffusion that propagates will scatter into the ether before it reaches your subject. I would think diffusion would work only on a large softbox much closer to your subject. I’d like to see a comparison with & without the diffuser.
It doesn't provide any value outdoors at all. So many photographers (pros and amateurs) get this wrong all the time. It is hilarious to me, I think to myself, "wow, these people really do not study light in it's entirety" lol. You are correct, diffusion panels on a softbox diffuse a small light to make it bigger (which creates soft light) and omni-directional diffusers simply spread light in all directions to bounce off of things (indoors only). The magsphere outdoors is a total waste of time and effort. It's bouncing light off of nothing (wasted light) and the only photons hitting the subject are the ones going straight to the subject from a small source. So using the flash bare will achieve the same effect (just control the power output). The shadows will be identical with or without the magsphere. He also mentioned less specularity in the video which is in fact false. Specularity is nothing more than a total reflection of the light source. The more reflective the surface and the brighter the source, the more specularity you get no matter what modifier you have. It is only controlled by power output, distance, how matte the surface is, and knowledge of the inverse square law. You can have a softbox be specular and a silver umbrella have hardly no specularity. It is all about knowing what you're doing.
@@JEDINITE30You're right, except in the parts where you're wrong, ie. the magsphere doing nothing outdoors. It does when it's pointed towards the subject, as in this video, try it for yourself. Or search for youtube videos on this, there are plenty.
@@viezure10 I have, I own a few of em. And I have done tests. You can get the same shadows, highlights, look, everything, with or without it. It is all a matter of settings. Do you know the actual scientific reason why soft shadows come from large light sources?
Thank you for this truth😊
Hmm interesting so basically usually its taught to compensate 2 stops underexposed on the camera when using flash. I assume that's for the dramatic side of things.
which manfrotto nano stand is he using?
Will this light setup work for a family of four?
Awesome. Thank you
Great video! Thank you.
I thought you would get a shutter curtain exposure on picture if you shoot over 200 in shutter speed. How do you compensate?
Hugh Sync Speed. it's a setting on your flash that allows for higher shutter speeds to be used.
I love you Pye
Good job! But, what do you think if the light from the flash came from the same side as the sunlight?
You are correct that the best subtle use of flash outside is to Brigit in from the same side as the sun - it will blend more naturally and look less 'lit' that way...
WOW. As a retired pro Advertising photographer. You sure made it complicated. It’s called balanced light for a reason. Take a light meter ,reading. And set the camera and strobe to match.Tada,you’re done. I did 8X10 format,interiors for years. Balance the exterior outside light,to match the interior,your done. Light meter/strobe meter,works wonders. No insult intended.
How does the saying go... There are a thousand ways to "cuddle" a cat. Something like that.
what is the sppedlites zoom at?
So is better natural light and light then, flash??
With the Profoto A1, you went from full power (10.0) to half power. Is 9.0 1/2 power?
yes
Nice Video I really founding interesting
that little diffuser does not do anything but reduce the flash power. i use AD200 with fresnel lens on stand with an assistant for run n gun couple shoots outdoors. tons of power. the light is hard but matches the sun's hard light on clothing and things around them.
I don't see how such a small speedlight (I have the same) could brighten up the model on such a sunny day. And then putting something on it that even reduces the light output by one stop ? Sounds crazy. I guess it could only add a bit of fill light.
Speedlights bare and at a reasonable distance can overpower the sun in this situation. But you are correct, the magsphere only reduces the output. It doesn't provide any value outdoors at all. So many photographers (pros and amateurs) get this wrong all the time. It is hilarious to me, I think to myself, "wow, these people really do not study light in it's entirety" lol. The magsphere outdoors is a total waste of time and effort. It's bouncing light off of nothing (wasted light) and the only photons hitting the subject are the ones going straight to the subject from a small source. So using the flash bare will achieve the same effect (just control the power output). The shadows will be identical with or without the magsphere.
@@JEDINITE30 Exactly my thoughts ! I don't see why you'd put a piece of Tupperware on your flash :-). I love my Godox V1 but it's only useful indoors where there is not a lot of light (for instance wedding parties). Outdoors I'd use the AD200 or AD400.
@@wanneske1969 exactly! For those that only have a speed light, they can make it work, but it will be more difficult and the recycle times will be long. Putting an unnecessary stoploss modifier on the front is counterproductive.
Thanks!
You bet!
Great video as always. Also putting the R5 on the ground gave me a mini panic attack
merci beaucoup
WOw right on the side of the road, no need for some out of the way location.
Would have been nice to order the correct adaptor in the beginning! I have no use for a Bowen and why would anyone want it if they already have it. Just saying.
Edited the heck out of those images
*This is 2023, not 2003, where everyone understands lighting better, there's nothing to hide here, I'm just an ordinary photographer in Vietnam, but if any experts In this world, if you use Magmod in a situation like in the video, I guarantee that no one can shoot better than me*
*I only use 1 tripod $20, 1 reflector that can be attached to the tripod $10 total $30, of course I can use this accessory set for more purposes*
*It's not that I'm too confident about myself, but if anyone really cares about light and understands light, the so-called Flash diffuse does not exist, this was explained by the Chairman of Nikkon Vietnam at the final ceremony. year (I remember correctly it was 2009, I'm still in contact with him to this day)*
*If you feel offended, you can block me, but that just makes me feel like I understand light better than anyone else.*
what da phuc are you talking about
*profes bro*@@hubert2191
How many of us here had to rewind the video back to the definition of CAMP?
It's an awesome acronym to think about when on shoots.
Wait for it.... oh yeah! LOL!
Adding the MagSphere barely adds any real size to the light, and wastes a ton of flash power by scattering the light outdoors where there are no surfaces to reflect it back. Inside in a smallish room the reflections off of walls/ceiling can help to create a softer big source- outdoors it is simply under powering your flash with no benefit.
Boosting the power of the flash with the magsphere is perfect. It’s the soft light you want.
I know it zaps the power, yet it’s not as harsh as the flash even on lower settings.
poerava, physics says your wrong. Larger is softer and the magsphere in this instance is small. It may diffuse light but it doesn't soften light.
I also agree with the notion that there's a lot of wasted light, it's an omni-bounce diffuser and it's better used in a room environment, not outside.
if i were u i would have used an ad200/400/600 and make the job done easily😊
My type of teacher simple and less gear
The highlights go off too much. There should be at least a little detail in there.
Not strait to the points,
like intentional straying,
then the lack of blending in the exposure values in the "three shots side by side"
although meant to resume and consolidate the reasonings.
And high-speed sync is a real prerequisite in this "tutorial', and shuld be clearly mentioned as such (not necessarily explained). Here it only fills and fills in soothing incitement to buy ..or earn him points....
I'm astound to have to come to this conclusion.
Please en french ! 😊
😂 c’est quand même plutôt facile à comprendre non ? 😂
just remove the flash and use reflector or nd filter if you really want to use flash. you using 1/2000 sec lol amazing tutorial
The cool part is there is often multiple ways to get things done. Advantages and disadvantages to each.
It's all pretty obvious. But if you don't have high speed synch it won't work. You really glossed over that
What about us broke folks without High Speed Sync? Do you have a video for us, lol? All we have is 1/200 or 1/250 :/.
Lens Boby Light Flip Flops Shorts Subject Location
And Thank you
The ambient light is too strong, at least 1/4000s, I prefer 1/8000s and Flash 1/8 or 1/4
Vegan recipes using meat.
Sounds delish! I can get behind that. :)
You forgot to tell what mode you set your camera on........MANUAL, APERTURE, OR SHUTTER SPEED? How much does models cost and how to find one?