Excellent. Just bought an '07 Jeep GC for my wife, and found it has a bad water pump. After flushing it, before changing the water pump, the thermo doesn't seem to be opening up fast or far enough. (The PO put some Barr's leak lozenges in to stop the pump leak, I guess, but it was pretty crudded up.) This video is just what I needed. Really surprised Chrysler is putting the thermo on bottom. Right up there with no transmission dip stick and an oil filter adapter that leaks. Proof that men in cubicles that have never turned a wrench have no business designing engines. Thanks, Martin, you just made this a lot easier.
Okay, three years later. I just put a Moto Rad 180* T-Stat in my '04 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 I got a month ago. It looks just like the OEM 196* one, even has the little tang on the gasket. It is working great right now. It's a hair below the line to the left of the 210* line. I still have the stock hydro fan, but I'm changing that to a Lincoln Town Car 2 speed fan next year. Got all the parts to do it already. Moto Rad doesn't have that stupid prong on it that hits the inside of the housing preventing it from opening fully. Got it from Amazon for like $14.01 to the door, sooo yeah.
Hello Mr Martin! My Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ is indicating 75 degrees Celsius and therefore indicates the code P1281, when normally the pointer is at 100ºC. It also showed high gasoline consumption. Today I am willing to replace the thermostat. Big hug and may prosperity always be in your steps. Grateful.
I see you took off the belt tensioner and you said you did.can you not change the thermostat or water pump with it on?or you took it off just so you had more room to work and it could have been left on to change both?
Hey buddy, with your programmer you need to lower the temp your electric fan kicks on. It's set factory, so basically therm has been open for awhile before your first fan speed kicks on. My super chip let me control my fan on time(07 wk) so hope yours does. I lowered it 10 degree to match same time stock therm is full open, not 5-10 after like factory has it. If your therm opens at 180, by time 205 and first electric fan stage comes on, you been full circulate hot water. You need both new therm temp and electric fan on temp to drop the 10 degrees your after effectively and line back up coolin. Don't forget factory takes lots into account the on vehicles made after 1995 or so on matching all cooling systems. Every dam day I see someone change a therm stat and cause more heat or fail of another cooling components, let alone the combustion temps being off because block isn't running hot enough to clean burn, leading to o2 sensor pulling fuel lowering performance on vehicles. Don't make sense to some, but I speak truth. #engineersonlyrunninghottertosucceed
martinbuilt , so on my dad's (04 wj), we couldn't get dam thing legit. But there are model's in your year or maybe 02 such that have electric with a block fan. My 07 is Max towing with large electric over a block fan. After thinking we wouldn't find a wj with electric over block fan. He bought the electric for my model and cut top off so hood would close. U got skills to cut and then plastic weld it back up. Then u need to order or pull n save urself a block fan to stack with the aftermarket electric fan/shroud kit. Sure enough it's full custom wiring tied into factory with sensors placed correctly to gather temp and turn in electric. Block fan will be set right if u get one off wj. Couple months went by and we find tuned sensor locations/wiring routing and called it a day. Driving home he spotted for $500 a 02 limited didn't run supposedly so cheap. We get it home and 10min we have it running perfect. We then noticed it was dam electric with block over not stupid hydro. For true cooling and towing u need block. We haven't put the 02 setup in his yet. Still running my year aftermarket with top cut and custom wiring, no block fan. I'm sure we capped off/bypassed hydro setup which actually helped steering system huge also.
@@martinbuilt Thanks. I'm going to try a 180 in my 4.7. FYI, Motorad #420-180 and Jet #10177 fit the 4.7 also. Motorad supplies Jet as far as I know; they're they same part.
Murphy's law does state, Even though your thermostat worked fine before you removed it, It will NOT work when you replace it~! Martin, Do you have a preferred brand of thermostat? Thanks
Yes providing a cooling system is adequate to bring it down to the 180. Depending on ambient temperature I'm running between 180 and 185 most of the time. If you have the hydraulic cooling fan like I used to have it will not get down to those temperature.
I wish I had your email, simply because you seem to be the foremost authority on these rigs, but my question is; Is it possible for that plastic thermostat housing to become warped? I get a wet spot directly underneath that housing after a drive... but no leaks after it's cooled off
Hi Martin, hope everything is well. Quick question for you as I’m replacing my radiator, thermostat, and radiator hoses on my 4.7L WJ. Do I need to use 195 degree thermostat or would you recommend going for 180? I appreciate your help greatly, your videos are making it possible for me to do all these simple fixes on my WJ! Alex from Phoenix, AZ
Hey Martín i have a question about my truck its a grand Cherokee 2004 it Is a 4.7 motor and i have 2 codes the first code Is: P0300 múltiple cylinder misfire.and the second code is:P0305 cylinder #5 misfire.what could i do because these codes pop up i dont know if u could help me out.i apreciate your help reply as soon as possible please
I looked into it. It looks like the coolant flows from the radiator through the thermostat into the engine. So most likely it's in the engine. I personally have never heard of a thermostat coming apart like that.
I was under the impression that the thermostats only job is to guarantee a MINIMUM operating temperature and putting in a lower temp thermostat will only guarantee the lower temp will be reached. It will not make the engine run cooler. That would explain why your vehicle takes LONGER to get up to temperature as the thermostat opens at a lower temperature than the stock one.
the problem is that the cooling system is not efficient, in this case the hydraulic fan was not pulling enough air threw the radiator. Once I replaced it with an electric fan the engine now is able to run very close to the thermostats minimum operating temperature.
Am I crazy or did Jeep put the Thermostat on the wrong location? If the coolant coming from the radiator is cool it will instantly shut down the thermostat.
On our '02 Liberty, the vent plug worked OK the first 2 or 3 times it was used, then stuck solidly in place and it can't be budged. I tried a number of things including trying to get it started with a chisel and attach a bolt to grab onto with JB Weld.. I have not tried to drill it out . Removing the upper radiator hose has been my solution since. (I had my radiator replaced at a shop most recently -- and so haven't dealt with it for several years now. I have new plugs to replace it if it ever comes out.)
Dave Caselli I would probably try when the engine is cold, heat the outside around the plug with a propane torch. try to Chisel it out if the Allen part of the plug is completely stripped out. And also after hitting it with the Heat spray a good penetrating oil in there.
pioraj engines technically get hotter after you shut them off. I would try changing out your radiator cap first. Make sure you get the one with the correct PSI rating.
Excellent. Just bought an '07 Jeep GC for my wife, and found it has a bad water pump. After flushing it, before changing the water pump, the thermo doesn't seem to be opening up fast or far enough. (The PO put some Barr's leak lozenges in to stop the pump leak, I guess, but it was pretty crudded up.) This video is just what I needed. Really surprised Chrysler is putting the thermo on bottom. Right up there with no transmission dip stick and an oil filter adapter that leaks. Proof that men in cubicles that have never turned a wrench have no business designing engines. Thanks, Martin, you just made this a lot easier.
Im 18 and never really been much of a car guy, but this is helping me so I can learn to repair. Thanks for uploading this.
a tip : watch movies on Kaldrostream. Me and my gf have been using it for watching lots of of movies recently.
@Aron Matthias yup, have been using KaldroStream for months myself :)
@Aron Matthias Definitely, I've been watching on kaldrostream for years myself :D
I been looking into a aluminum radiator for my wj, can't wait to see what you come up with. You always have great solution
Okay, three years later. I just put a Moto Rad 180* T-Stat in my '04 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7 I got a month ago. It looks just like the OEM 196* one, even has the little tang on the gasket. It is working great right now. It's a hair below the line to the left of the 210* line. I still have the stock hydro fan, but I'm changing that to a Lincoln Town Car 2 speed fan next year. Got all the parts to do it already. Moto Rad doesn't have that stupid prong on it that hits the inside of the housing preventing it from opening fully. Got it from Amazon for like $14.01 to the door, sooo yeah.
Well better late than never, I love my E-fan conversion. Got to be one of the best mods I've ever done on the WJ.
Hello Mr Martin!
My Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ is indicating 75 degrees Celsius and therefore indicates the code P1281, when normally the pointer is at 100ºC. It also showed high gasoline consumption. Today I am willing to replace the thermostat. Big hug and may prosperity always be in your steps. Grateful.
Yes that sounds like your thermostat is stuck open.
@@martinbuilt Thank you.
Great video. Saved me $$$
Excellent video😊
Thank you. I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
I see you took off the belt tensioner and you said you did.can you not change the thermostat or water pump with it on?or you took it off just so you had more room to work and it could have been left on to change both?
open bleeder, fill up and leave it over night. When you wake up in the morning top it up with coolant and the air in the system is gone
Hey buddy, with your programmer you need to lower the temp your electric fan kicks on. It's set factory, so basically therm has been open for awhile before your first fan speed kicks on. My super chip let me control my fan on time(07 wk) so hope yours does. I lowered it 10 degree to match same time stock therm is full open, not 5-10 after like factory has it.
If your therm opens at 180, by time 205 and first electric fan stage comes on, you been full circulate hot water. You need both new therm temp and electric fan on temp to drop the 10 degrees your after effectively and line back up coolin. Don't forget factory takes lots into account the on vehicles made after 1995 or so on matching all cooling systems. Every dam day I see someone change a therm stat and cause more heat or fail of another cooling components, let alone the combustion temps being off because block isn't running hot enough to clean burn, leading to o2 sensor pulling fuel lowering performance on vehicles. Don't make sense to some, but I speak truth. #engineersonlyrunninghottertosucceed
What do you do if you have hydraulic fan?
martinbuilt , so on my dad's (04 wj), we couldn't get dam thing legit. But there are model's in your year or maybe 02 such that have electric with a block fan. My 07 is Max towing with large electric over a block fan.
After thinking we wouldn't find a wj with electric over block fan. He bought the electric for my model and cut top off so hood would close. U got skills to cut and then plastic weld it back up. Then u need to order or pull n save urself a block fan to stack with the aftermarket electric fan/shroud kit.
Sure enough it's full custom wiring tied into factory with sensors placed correctly to gather temp and turn in electric. Block fan will be set right if u get one off wj.
Couple months went by and we find tuned sensor locations/wiring routing and called it a day. Driving home he spotted for $500 a 02 limited didn't run supposedly so cheap. We get it home and 10min we have it running perfect. We then noticed it was dam electric with block over not stupid hydro. For true cooling and towing u need block. We haven't put the 02 setup in his yet. Still running my year aftermarket with top cut and custom wiring, no block fan. I'm sure we capped off/bypassed hydro setup which actually helped steering system huge also.
You might want to invest in a microphone,it is hard to hear you when you are close to the camera.Nice job Martin....
Dan Hambrick yeah Inoticed that. I'm looking into a whole new camera system
I always see your videos i know u could help me out.you have great videos
What size is that vinyl hose?
Martin do you remember if this 180 tstat held your temps at 195 during highway speeds? You only mentioned stop & go traffic. Thanks for your time.
yes at highway speed as well, even better now that I converted it from the hydraulic fan to electric.
@@martinbuilt Thanks. I'm going to try a 180 in my 4.7. FYI, Motorad #420-180 and Jet #10177 fit the 4.7 also. Motorad supplies Jet as far as I know; they're they same part.
Murphy's law does state, Even though your thermostat worked fine before you removed it, It will NOT work when you replace it~!
Martin, Do you have a preferred brand of thermostat? Thanks
I'm doing this to a 3.7l does the plastic 45 degree thermostat hosing have a gasket auto parts don't sell them or they are rare?
Yes there should be an O- ring
Hey Martin. Does it made a difference vs oem 195 thermostat?
Yes providing a cooling system is adequate to bring it down to the 180. Depending on ambient temperature I'm running between 180 and 185 most of the time. If you have the hydraulic cooling fan like I used to have it will not get down to those temperature.
I wish I had your email, simply because you seem to be the foremost authority on these rigs, but my question is; Is it possible for that plastic thermostat housing to become warped? I get a wet spot directly underneath that housing after a drive... but no leaks after it's cooled off
I have seen where the housing will appear to be wrapped.
@@martinbuilt Ok I ordered a new plastic one, but is there any aluminum or alloy upgrade available that you know of?
@@kirbyf7007 not that I know of
Hi Martin, hope everything is well. Quick question for you as I’m replacing my radiator, thermostat, and radiator hoses on my 4.7L WJ. Do I need to use 195 degree thermostat or would you recommend going for 180? I appreciate your help greatly, your videos are making it possible for me to do all these simple fixes on my WJ!
Alex from Phoenix, AZ
I like the 180, the 4.7 runs much stronger with the 180
Thank you again for the response, I’ll go with the 180!
@@martinbuilt Will the 180 trigger the CEL/SEL?
@@ChilePicanteKornNvtz no
Sometimes my resevoir tank bubbles up any ideas why..only really when i drive in the city
check the radiator cap. Hope it's not a blown head gasket.
Thanks
Hey Martín i have a question about my truck its a grand Cherokee 2004 it Is a 4.7 motor and i have 2 codes the first code Is: P0300 múltiple cylinder misfire.and the second code is:P0305 cylinder #5 misfire.what could i do because these codes pop up i dont know if u could help me out.i apreciate your help reply as soon as possible please
Cisco Mat
Did you fix the problem?
Me gusta
Hey Martin my old thermostat broke in half and I can't find it do you think it's in the radiator the engine?
I looked into it. It looks like the coolant flows from the radiator through the thermostat into the engine. So most likely it's in the engine. I personally have never heard of a thermostat coming apart like that.
Where is the water pump video
th-cam.com/video/m6LVTsqAfuE/w-d-xo.html
I was under the impression that the thermostats only job is to guarantee a MINIMUM operating temperature and putting in a lower temp thermostat will only guarantee the lower temp will be reached. It will not make the engine run cooler. That would explain why your vehicle takes LONGER to get up to temperature as the thermostat opens at a lower temperature than the stock one.
the problem is that the cooling system is not efficient, in this case the hydraulic fan was not pulling enough air threw the radiator. Once I replaced it with an electric fan the engine now is able to run very close to the thermostats minimum operating temperature.
Am I crazy or did Jeep put the Thermostat on the wrong location? If the coolant coming from the radiator is cool it will instantly shut down the thermostat.
Was the audio not working right?? This video was the first where your voice was not being picked up .. otherwise great...😃
MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE THERMOSTAT IN THE RIGHT WAY
Your vent plug is not stripped out ! !
no why do you ask?
On our '02 Liberty, the vent plug worked OK the first 2 or 3 times it was used, then stuck solidly in place and it can't be budged. I tried a number of things including trying to get it started with a chisel and attach a bolt to grab onto with JB Weld.. I have not tried to drill it out . Removing the upper radiator hose has been my solution since. (I had my radiator replaced at a shop most recently -- and so haven't dealt with it for several years now. I have new plugs to replace it if it ever comes out.)
Dave Caselli I would probably try when the engine is cold, heat the outside around the plug with a propane torch. try to Chisel it out if the Allen part of the plug is completely stripped out. And also after hitting it with the Heat spray a good penetrating oil in there.
This is what anti sieze lube is made for.
Thermostat housing sealant would be good also.
Hi, you know what this problem may be?
th-cam.com/video/AMi43pjwoa0/w-d-xo.html
This happens after switching off the engine
Thank you
pioraj engines technically get hotter after you shut them off. I would try changing out your radiator cap first. Make sure you get the one with the correct PSI rating.
thank you