I ordered 8 cells a week ago. I'm putting them behind my seat in a truck. I'm glad to hear you are looking in to making the buss for a long orientation.
One thing that may be beneficial for sizing busbars that you may find helpful is measuring the max voltage drop using a semi decent 6 or 7 digit high precision DVM across each busbar in the battery under load, and then adding them all up and dividing it into the total resting voltage of the pack to ensure the busbars are staying under 1% of the total voltage drop in the system. You could also use a micro-ohmmeter to find the internal resistance for each busbar connection to get a total resistance drop for the pack at the nominal voltage to compute how much voltage drop you will have at various current levels and once it goes over 1% that will be the maximum and you will know what to expect even before testing.
Y’all Jehu has been building batteries since I was a teen and I’m in my 30s. Your most likely giving him advice he already knew. Just saying. Everyone always thinks they know more than the professional for some reason. 🛑
Facts, all the lithium knowledge I got today is due to him. I start following him since I was 16 years old in high school. I'm now a lithium head and have build lots of lithium batteries for other projects and for others .
. The reason for those hot spots on the end bars is because of singular bar format. If you follow through your idea of a long battery, you can get double contact like the bar under the balance reader. - Also, your losing contact patch via’ nut compressing the bars into a cone shape. Making them leaf out like an open book. Can use a fender-washer to help flatten this out, or use radio antenna copper joint contact compound (it’s like a copper infused anti-seize) but most folk use a solid bar instead of layered pcb, just for the sake of simplicity. - Nothing wrong with layering pcb. But when entering into 500~plus amp territory, the less multiple contact the better.
I have a 48 ah headway I think I’m going to try these out 😮 Looks like a beast Ps man make a freaking beefy pcb buss bars Love your videos Sincerely extreme basshead 😂
These busbars are continuously handling 500 amps without melting under a non stop load. Music never does this. Music will pull max amperage for a second before the load falls off and back up again. The only way you'll ever get loads like these while playing music is if you were only playing test tones for minutes on end. I have busbars for my cells that are rated for 100 amps continuous and very thin and I have never had a problem with them but can do 400-600 amps on them at Burt's of 10 seconds also without issue which is similar to what music is.
160 is really not that hot anyway. Fantastic product!!!!! Just installed the long version and it’s absolutely insane. I am running about 12k watts and it is extremely stout. I don’t like the fact that it changes so low though 13.3 is all I am getting currently.
Question ! Im a old school car audio guy and im not new to lithium charging, i know they have to be charged safely and be balanced. So for car audio would you just put this battery in the same configuration you would as a AGM in the trunk, And just let the alternator do its job, or is their anything special you would recommend besides checking the balancer here and there.
Edit: the battgo device was not shipped with the correct setting, as soon as i changed it to LiFe it worked flawless to charge and was at 98%. Im happy with it now, thanks Jag35. End of edit.... I just got my 148Ah 12v 1200amp 4s2p premade kit. Thanks. When charging it with the aims 12v 75amp 14.4 charger the gas tabk never barely went to 8% with all the cells balanced over 8hrs. Does ot matter which front or back of the terminal blocks used to connect the charger I don't have anything connected to it the power stuff but when I charge it it gets up to the 14.39/40 volts but not sure if im doing something wrong? Does the battgo not know the % of capacity remaining properly? So confusing. The battgo was shipped with the setting at LiPo, is that diff than LiFe? Whats LiFePO4 vs LiFe? Should i connect my subwoofer amp and sub to it and see if anything changes? The battgo manuals online are a joke. Need some advice.... Should i let the charger charge all night and see if it does anything? People made it sound like it charges in an hour. Maybe it needs a whole day?
I would like to use this as a starter battery for a diesel truck. What is the temperature range for these cells ? also do you think a 300amp constant 1000a 5 second bms would be ok for that situation ? seems the starter would use 450-650 amps... Might just run a 750amp ANL fuse and no bms
So, what am I missing??? What is the advantage of PCB busbars vs solid copper or even aluminum? I know weight isn't the issue, so is it cost, looks, easy of manufacture? If cost, what is the difference? I work with big substation battery banks with tin plated copper bus bars all the time. But, I never buy them so no idea on costs. Also, what would you consider the high temp warning point, 180F or so? Also appreciated not mentioning the competitor. That was getting old and those that know, don't care to hear it. Those that do, don't need 'em anyway. Loving the R&D, keep it up!
Yes cost is a big deal, I’m going to disrupt this market with super affordable battery so spending extra on costly bars when they are not needed doesn't make sense.
Basically if you can size a bus bar for the expected thermal losses during a cycle instead of using the standard practice of 1.2A/mm^2; then you can save on costs a lot. I think that is the goal of these tests. I know from purchasing experience that nickel plated bus bars rated for 150A continuous(25.4mm ×6.35mm) at a total length of 3.29 meters for a client's pack was $790 in material/ manufacturing/ shipping costs. This excludes the design time costs for the custom bars.
People in the car audio community usually just buy more amplifiers and batteries. Some do run at 24v, and are becoming more popular, but they are rare.
Nobody is running their car audio equipment at 24v. Find me an amplifier that can take that much voltage an I'll say I'm wrong an I don't know shit but my 10+ yrs in car audio an lithium dealings say otherwise. Taramps HV don't count because they were never designed for in vehicle use. No vehicles Electric system can handle voltage like that
I mean if you use this for Car audio you will never see that continuous of an amperage draw, since music is dynamic. These performed quite well, These would kick butt for a high powered car audio install.
You are wrong sir. Music used in car audio these days is modified, basically a continuous sine wave. You will absolutely see current draw like this. And even if the music was not modified at the power levels we are using even lower amplitude baselines will pose significant current
@@BeSome1 LOL, what no bro. I don’t care how much DJ rusticals you are playing it’s not a constant sine wave. Your level of knowledge is hilariously poor.
@CL-yp1bs clearly your level of car audio is poor, but that's okay. You may not have a system that demands High current, as most do not. However for me and the others that compete in my class do. I actually measure my current pull do you?
Unless you're actually doing a max db test to burp a system music will never be a continuous load. All music is transient unless like I said you're playing a straight 40hz test for 2 minutes which is dumb.
I'm new to all of this battery stuff, I've been talking with a nice person on Reddit and he suggested this battery or maybe not this one this was the video he tagged but everywhere that I've looked for information has told me to use a specific charger to charge lithium ion sales and even your website states "Never try to charge or discharge li-ion batteries with battery chargers that are not made for li-ion batteries." So my question is, how do I go about charging your 74AH Fully assembled battery pack while it's in the trunk of my car?
Hello Jehua Best regards: I am trying to make a "Solar PowerPack 900Wh", as you explain it in your videos (which among other things I really like, thanks!). I have ready the 10 battery plates and the rest of the parts, but I have problems with the cable ("Ribbon cable"), that when trying to connect the whole set, this generated a big short circuit burning several of the battery cards. I already repaired them, but I have to burn them again... Is it possible that you can sell me the ribbon cable with the 11 male connectors, ready and tested, to finish my project? Just tell me how much it's worth to consign the money to you. Thanks again!, Hugs. Jaime
yes we already have a kit for that, you get the busbar and the cells and put them together jag35.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/24v-8s-busbar-pcbs-for-lev60f-cells If you buy the components we can put it together for you.
@@jehugarcia Thank You also I plan on using some Headway cells to make a 750 or 1000W E-bike to experiment with Fat wheels and trying to make it capable of light off-roading. Do headway cells work well for that application. I can make the Bus Bars for that but I don't know between 1P or 2P for better range.
I just bought 8 cells . I wanna make 2 seperate 74 ah batteries . And be able to connect to make 148 ah batt. Is that possible ? Do i need 2 bms ? Amd can i make one a solar generator capable of charging on solar and DC to DC . ?
@@jehugarcia holy Fffffffffff as soon as I get the green light I'm ordering that's massively impressive my friend very nice job. So glad I found your channel.
With all due respect, the reason why these have not been as popular it's because you continue to use PCB bus bars. You have a healthy supply of cells, secure a metal fabricator and have thick aluminum or copper bars made specifically for you like all of the other Metal Works on the market. I'm trying to help you. People make go to you for cells but they go elsewhere for bussbars. Seems like a missed opportunity to me🤷🏽
The reason you haven’t seen these, it’s because we just got them, talk to me in a couple of months. Use whatever bars you want but the only one peddling big aluminum bars are the busbar sellers. Customers will buy what works.
What would you recommend someone replacing 2 12v lead acid AGM coach batteries for an RV application? Just looking to extend my time out in the world and off the wire hen we travel
Battery - jag35.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/fully-assembled-12v-178ah-1200a-lev60f-lifepo4-battery
Balancer- amzn.to/44TKIST
Balancer cable - jag35.com/products/2-54mm-jumper-cable-connector-for-pcb-male-to-female-8-pin-dupont-24v?_pos=1&_sid=b7de07b15&_ss=r
9600 watts is crazy for such a small package. Bravo Jahu!
I ordered 8 cells a week ago. I'm putting them behind my seat in a truck. I'm glad to hear you are looking in to making the buss for a long orientation.
Right on
One thing that may be beneficial for sizing busbars that you may find helpful is measuring the max voltage drop using a semi decent 6 or 7 digit high precision DVM across each busbar in the battery under load, and then adding them all up and dividing it into the total resting voltage of the pack to ensure the busbars are staying under 1% of the total voltage drop in the system.
You could also use a micro-ohmmeter to find the internal resistance for each busbar connection to get a total resistance drop for the pack at the nominal voltage to compute how much voltage drop you will have at various current levels and once it goes over 1% that will be the maximum and you will know what to expect even before testing.
Just ordered this bad boy a bit ago! Thanks Jehu!
Just ordered 2 banks of the smaller version super excited
Y’all Jehu has been building batteries since I was a teen and I’m in my 30s. Your most likely giving him advice he already knew. Just saying. Everyone always thinks they know more than the professional for some reason. 🛑
Facts, all the lithium knowledge I got today is due to him. I start following him since I was 16 years old in high school. I'm now a lithium head and have build lots of lithium batteries for other projects and for others .
I’m enjoying the headway kit, now I need to switch gears n go this route'!!!!
.
The reason for those hot spots on the end bars is because of singular bar format.
If you follow through your idea of a long battery, you can get double contact like the bar under the balance reader.
-
Also, your losing contact patch via’ nut compressing the bars into a cone shape. Making them leaf out like an open book.
Can use a fender-washer to help flatten this out, or use radio antenna copper joint contact compound (it’s like a copper infused anti-seize) but most folk use a solid bar instead of layered pcb, just for the sake of simplicity.
-
Nothing wrong with layering pcb. But when entering into 500~plus amp territory, the less multiple contact the better.
I agree
My geez those bus bars are top notch 🙌🏽🙌🏽🔋🔋⚡️⚡️⚡️🐐
I’m gonna have to get these for my next dual battery system. Been rocking the fullriver stick packs and want to get some more output.
Cant wait to order the lev60 long,looks amazing
Not only audio . Cb radio and ham radio operator we use it ❤
I hope bms if rf proof
Looks like a good battery 👍🏻
Stetsom makes high voltage (DC) amplifiers for high power applications. I believe there are a few more Brazilian high dc voltage amps
Would love to see what happens when you sort those connections
we love to have battery like that in the uk
I have a 48 ah headway
I think I’m going to try these out 😮
Looks like a beast
Ps man make a freaking beefy pcb buss bars
Love your videos
Sincerely extreme basshead 😂
These busbars are continuously handling 500 amps without melting under a non stop load. Music never does this. Music will pull max amperage for a second before the load falls off and back up again. The only way you'll ever get loads like these while playing music is if you were only playing test tones for minutes on end. I have busbars for my cells that are rated for 100 amps continuous and very thin and I have never had a problem with them but can do 400-600 amps on them at Burt's of 10 seconds also without issue which is similar to what music is.
Great video man! What do you use to charge something like this?
Any 12v battery charger
160 is really not that hot anyway. Fantastic product!!!!! Just installed the long version and it’s absolutely insane. I am running about 12k watts and it is extremely stout. I don’t like the fact that it changes so low though 13.3 is all I am getting currently.
Looks like you missed one of the black wires in the amp clamp.
Question ! Im a old school car audio guy and im not new to lithium charging, i know they have to be charged safely and be balanced. So for car audio would you just put this battery in the same configuration you would as a AGM in the trunk, And just let the alternator do its job, or is their anything special you would recommend besides checking the balancer here and there.
Yeah just let the alternator charge them
Siiiiiick bro!
Edit: the battgo device was not shipped with the correct setting, as soon as i changed it to LiFe it worked flawless to charge and was at 98%.
Im happy with it now, thanks Jag35.
End of edit....
I just got my 148Ah 12v 1200amp 4s2p premade kit. Thanks. When charging it with the aims 12v 75amp 14.4 charger the gas tabk never barely went to 8% with all the cells balanced over 8hrs. Does ot matter which front or back of the terminal blocks used to connect the charger I don't have anything connected to it the power stuff but when I charge it it gets up to the 14.39/40 volts but not sure if im doing something wrong? Does the battgo not know the % of capacity remaining properly? So confusing. The battgo was shipped with the setting at LiPo, is that diff than LiFe? Whats LiFePO4 vs LiFe?
Should i connect my subwoofer amp and sub to it and see if anything changes?
The battgo manuals online are a joke. Need some advice.... Should i let the charger charge all night and see if it does anything? People made it sound like it charges in an hour. Maybe it needs a whole day?
I would like to use this as a starter battery for a diesel truck. What is the temperature range for these cells ? also do you think a 300amp constant 1000a 5 second bms would be ok for that situation ? seems the starter would use 450-650 amps... Might just run a 750amp ANL fuse and no bms
So, what am I missing??? What is the advantage of PCB busbars vs solid copper or even aluminum? I know weight isn't the issue, so is it cost, looks, easy of manufacture? If cost, what is the difference? I work with big substation battery banks with tin plated copper bus bars all the time. But, I never buy them so no idea on costs. Also, what would you consider the high temp warning point, 180F or so?
Also appreciated not mentioning the competitor. That was getting old and those that know, don't care to hear it. Those that do, don't need 'em anyway. Loving the R&D, keep it up!
Yes cost is a big deal, I’m going to disrupt this market with super affordable battery so spending extra on costly bars when they are not needed doesn't make sense.
Basically if you can size a bus bar for the expected thermal losses during a cycle instead of using the standard practice of 1.2A/mm^2; then you can save on costs a lot.
I think that is the goal of these tests.
I know from purchasing experience that nickel plated bus bars rated for 150A continuous(25.4mm ×6.35mm) at a total length of 3.29 meters for a client's pack was $790 in material/ manufacturing/ shipping costs. This excludes the design time costs for the custom bars.
People in the car audio community usually just buy more amplifiers and batteries. Some do run at 24v, and are becoming more popular, but they are rare.
Nobody is running their car audio equipment at 24v. Find me an amplifier that can take that much voltage an I'll say I'm wrong an I don't know shit but my 10+ yrs in car audio an lithium dealings say otherwise. Taramps HV don't count because they were never designed for in vehicle use. No vehicles Electric system can handle voltage like that
@@TrunkThunderLithium Taramps make some. I don't care they're not designed for cars - they are 24v and people run them in their cars
I mean if you use this for Car audio you will never see that continuous of an amperage draw, since music is dynamic. These performed quite well, These would kick butt for a high powered car audio install.
You are wrong sir. Music used in car audio these days is modified, basically a continuous sine wave. You will absolutely see current draw like this. And even if the music was not modified at the power levels we are using even lower amplitude baselines will pose significant current
@@BeSome1 LOL, what no bro. I don’t care how much DJ rusticals you are playing it’s not a constant sine wave. Your level of knowledge is hilariously poor.
@CL-yp1bs clearly your level of car audio is poor, but that's okay. You may not have a system that demands High current, as most do not. However for me and the others that compete in my class do. I actually measure my current pull do you?
Unless you're actually doing a max db test to burp a system music will never be a continuous load. All music is transient unless like I said you're playing a straight 40hz test for 2 minutes which is dumb.
Well whatever sine wave music you guys listen to these days, continuous tests should give you the results you need then.
Can you make it with a 4/0 terminal block
🤣🤣🤣🤣 SOME ONE IS SHOWING OFF THE OVER 10 SEC OVER 12V COMUNITY NOW I THINK THEY CAN SAY OH!! I GUESS THIS BATTERYS AND BUSBARS ARE GRATE!!!
They do have amps that are high voltage. Dude has a fiat. That has 3 30k anps at 400v runs off his ev motor battery
I'm new to all of this battery stuff, I've been talking with a nice person on Reddit and he suggested this battery or maybe not this one this was the video he tagged but everywhere that I've looked for information has told me to use a specific charger to charge lithium ion sales and even your website states "Never try to charge or discharge li-ion batteries with battery chargers that are not made for li-ion batteries." So my question is, how do I go about charging your 74AH Fully assembled battery pack while it's in the trunk of my car?
Hello Jehua Best regards: I am trying to make a "Solar PowerPack 900Wh", as you explain it in your videos (which among other things I really like, thanks!).
I have ready the 10 battery plates and the rest of the parts, but I have problems with the cable ("Ribbon cable"), that when trying to connect the whole set, this generated a big short circuit burning several of the battery cards. I already repaired them, but I have to burn them again...
Is it possible that you can sell me the ribbon cable with the 11 male connectors, ready and tested, to finish my project?
Just tell me how much it's worth to consign the money to you. Thanks again!,
Hugs. Jaime
How can I use it to charge up a Bluetti ac200P ? what's needed?
All you would need is the same connector that plugs into your solar input.
And hook the other ends to the positive and negative on the battery.
What can you charge it at? In a car audio set up
Can you change it to 8S1P instead on 4S2P. I need a 48 volt pack capable of tons of amperage.
yes we already have a kit for that, you get the busbar and the cells and put them together jag35.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/24v-8s-busbar-pcbs-for-lev60f-cells If you buy the components we can put it together for you.
@@jehugarcia Thank You also I plan on using some Headway cells to make a 750 or 1000W E-bike to experiment with Fat wheels and trying to make it capable of light off-roading. Do headway cells work well for that application. I can make the Bus Bars for that but I don't know between 1P or 2P for better range.
I just bought 8 cells . I wanna make 2 seperate 74 ah batteries . And be able to connect to make 148 ah batt. Is that possible ? Do i need 2 bms ? Amd can i make one a solar generator capable of charging on solar and DC to DC . ?
Everything is possible
Anywere in Europe to buy these please.
How many amps was you putting into that pack while doing this test?
Nope
@@jehugarcia that was all the packs the whole test?
All battery
@@jehugarcia holy Fffffffffff as soon as I get the green light I'm ordering that's massively impressive my friend very nice job. So glad I found your channel.
Is this better than headway?
Yes
How can I order your product to India?
You can’t
With all due respect, the reason why these have not been as popular it's because you continue to use PCB bus bars. You have a healthy supply of cells, secure a metal fabricator and have thick aluminum or copper bars made specifically for you like all of the other Metal Works on the market. I'm trying to help you. People make go to you for cells but they go elsewhere for bussbars. Seems like a missed opportunity to me🤷🏽
The reason you haven’t seen these, it’s because we just got them, talk to me in a couple of months. Use whatever bars you want but the only one peddling big aluminum bars are the busbar sellers. Customers will buy what works.
@@jehugarcia couldn't have said it better myself
What would you recommend someone replacing 2 12v lead acid AGM coach batteries for an RV application? Just looking to extend my time out in the world and off the wire hen we travel
What's this?
Yes
You can tell, by the way that it is.
The comment section looked a little bare , so I put something up🤣