Seismic retrofit of Craftsman Bungalow start to finish in Oakland California!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- I decided to take on the seismic retrofit of our single story Craftsman Bungalow in Oakland California from start to finish - with engineered designs, permits, special inspections and a grant from the East Bay Bolt & Brace program.
Here's a spreadsheet of the costs - materials & tools: docs.google.co...
The production quality could be better but this video talks a little bit about the basics of seismic retrofits and how they work in the case of an earthquake. For less talking, skip ahead to the work being done later in the video. Paul Rude kindly provides some of his knowledge as an expert in the field. I walk through some of the steps and show some of the work being done including drilling anchor holes, cleaning holes, installing blocking and shear walls and installing hardware. I also talk about some of the tools I used in the process.
30:00 - Reviewing engineered plans
34:08 - Tools, safety equipment, materials
42:27 - A look at the crawlspace before work starts
45:08 - Drilling anchor holes
45:33 - Cutting threaded rod
46:05 - Cleaning anchor holes
46:55 - A look at the crawlspace after the work has started
52:16 - Epoxy anchors
59:05 - Tightening anchors
59:35 - Nailing shear wall
1:00:39 - Cutting breathing holes
1:00:49 - Installing hardware
If you have any questions about the process please ask in the comments! Thanks again to Paul Rude for his advice and time!
Oh and the tools also 👍 YES! you covered everything down to the gloves & mask! TY
This video is a testament to the amazing value of youtube. Thank you!
nice to have the room this crawl space has, because a lot of times there isn't that much room to maneuver
Super! Super great video! Best Yet! 🏅 I would like more close ups on the different hardware pieces and how they are assembled and the tools needed to do the work ...the nitty gritty parts details and equipment necessary...but the info in this video is the best i have found for my purposes Thank You So Very Much! 👏👏 👏
Thank you.
I've watched hours of videos on retrofits.
I found yours to be the most thorough and informative.
Thanks Kirk, glad it was helpful and glad I put the time in to record it. Best of luck with your retrofit! I'm now working on a garage conversion ADU and might try and do the same again :)
I encourage you to make a video of building the ADU. You seem to have a natural talent with your presentation and story telling.@@bayareabrit
@@bayareabrit hopefully you can also share us the videos of your ADU project.
I too planning to build one in my backyard in Southern CA Orange county.
Will surely appreciate any insights
Thanks
@@JohnDoe-eh4oe stay tuned! The ADU build is in progress right now and I'm taking videos as I go. A lot of learnings and the complexity in dealing with the city, special inspectors etc is significantly more than with the retrofit. I'm sure it'll be worth it when it's all done!
Ooh i am so sorry Yes! i do see the hardware is very well listed on the link below TY so much!
On a really old structure like that one in the video it is KEY to do some upgrades to the cripple walls. SImple upgrades like these car make it plenty strong. Sheer panel added to some areas. Some metal Hardware. some concrete around some of the foundation post and beam.
Hurricane ties and A35s
This is such a great video thank you for posting this! Going through this process right now
Hope you managed to get through it OK!
What an incredible job you did on this video, very informative, thank you!
Thank you for this. Very, very helpful. I am in the process of a retrofit and am using the Titan HD anchors for bolting the sill plate to the foundation. I got a bid for 12K for my house and decided that I could save that money by doing it myself.
Good stuff, definitely an easy way to save some money. I bet the quotes people are giving have sky rocketed since I did this back in 2019
Great video but you should never tighten the hold down nuts with an impact driver. Strong Tie recommends tightening the hold downs nuts as follows: finger tight with a half turn. This seems crazy but that's how they are tested. Contact Strong Tie for any specification questions. They have an engineering department that can answer most questions and the service is free.
Thank you so much for this video. Plan Set A requires to use 15/32 5-ply exterior grade plywood. Does Structural 1 CDX 15/32 5-ply plywood meet this requirement?
I wouldn't rely on my opinion, but it certainly sounds like it. Structural 1 plywood was designed for this use!
Thank you for putting together this video, lots of good info!
What type of nails did you use with the nailer?
No worries, check the google sheet in the information - there were a bunch of different nails that I used and they should all be noted there..
You are lucky you have a lot of headroom in crawlspace. My house does not have cripplewall which is good but that means my crawl space barely has any room :-( Doing this job would be much harder for me.
Yeah you're right, the height made it a lot easier, don't envy those jobs where you're literally crawling although presumable with a shorter cripple wall there is less risk of damage from an earthquake and maybe less hardware required
Awesome video Francis, thanks for putting it together! Live in Richmond and looking to potentially do the retrofit myself. I was watching some videos and looks like Simpson's Strong Tie does these titan HD bolts that do not require epoxy - you just screw them in with a hex driver. Did you consider that at all? Would make things a lot easier and less messy if it does in fact work as a legitimate replacement.
Hi Shalav, awesome that you're taking on your retrofit. I had not considered titan HD hold downs and my engineered plans specifically required epoxy anchors. I'm not sure if the Plan set A allows for titan HDs but I suppose they could be a good alternative. Another consideration might be the condition of your concrete foundation, I imagine if it is more on the brittle side the non epoxy might not be as strong. The epoxy really wasn't difficult, the main issue for me was that the city required a special inspection for the epoxy anchors which cost $1000 to have someone just come out and watch! Anyway I'd check with your planning department if you're going down the permit route.
Great video! Did a similar job on my home in S. Cal. In 2018. Looks like you covered everything. I wish I’d known about the palm nailer then - used a lot of Simpson screws where I couldn’t get a hammer in. How did the final inspection go?
Thanks! Yeah the palm nailer was a joy. Final inspection was all good - not very thorough but perhaps it looked like I'd been diligent so he didn't need to spend too much time checking the details. So far so good, although we've not had any major quakes since it was completed.
Did the EBB program give you a rebate as a homeowner? My understanding is that the work needs to be done by an approved, licensed contractor. (You may have stated this in the video, but I had to watch much of it with the sound off....)
Yes they did, I did it myself as an owner-builder. But yeah I think if you're using someone else to manage the process they would need to be a licensed contractor.
Amazing video, thanks for all the work. Did you end up cutting all of the mudsills flush? Was it hard to do with just the sawzall and the oscillating tool?
Some of them were already flush, some we added blocking at the mudsill to attach the plywood too and there was one area we ended up cutting flush. The sawzall with a long blade and oscillating tool were surprisingly good for the job and much safer than a specialized circular saw I think. Good luck!
Another question, where did you get the idea to put the l90 at the top (against the floor) as appose to just sitting on the top plate like other videos? was this by an engineer? I like it and am considering doing it because it makes sense but just curious.
Best,
I can't quite remember but I think that's how the plans specified and also how Paul (in the video) had advised me. If it had been on the lower corner it would have been difficult to nail and the hangers are already transferring the force from the cripple wall to the floor joists
What was the engineers name? I cannot find in your details. Thanks!!
Dan Szumski, I'd thoroughly recommend him, only issue was that he doesn't do special inspections so I had to hire another firm to do that.
Wow! Thank you so much for putting all of this together. You did a fantastic job.
A couple questions. I still haven't put plywood on because there's still much work to do on the wall. (Weatherproofing it and stopping a leak etc). But I'm definitely strengthening things in the interim. Could I put H-10's on and attach them to the top plate? Or do they have to be attached to the plywood? I actually have a double top plate.
I've seen some pictures where it looks like the h10s are attached to the top plate, and some like yours where they're attached to the plywood. Do you think either way is okay? Or is it pointless to attach them to the top plate?
Also, why did you decide to add the double studs? Was that to make the plywood fit better? Or was it because the old studs were too old?
Thanks again for making this!
No problem, glad that people are finding it of some use!
On the H10 question, if I had put them under the plywood I wouldn't have been able to nail through the plywood in that section, because there would be a metal plate underneath blocking any nails, plus the nails are quite long so in effect you're attaching it to both the plywood and the top plate. I definitely remember thinking through the same decision at the time!
On the double studs it wasn't to do with the quality of the wood but the plans called for double studs at either end of a shear panel and in the longer panels I had to use more than one sheet of plywood so at those middle seams needed to double the stud to give each side something to attach to (if they were sharing a single 2x4 it wouldn't be strong and the nails would probably split the wood).
Hope that makes sense and good luck, feel free to ask any more questions!
@@FrancisWong That does make sense. Thank you!
Hi Francis, thank you so much!! This is such a thorough and helpful video. It sounds like during your process, you found out that you needed special inspections. If you had to do it all over again, would you recommend finding an engineer that could do the design AND special inspection? Or do you think having different engineers for design vs inspection (as it was in your case) was better? Also thank you so much for sharing your spreadsheet of cost - Could you also share approx. how much you saved by not hiring out for the work? Thank you!!
No worries. I think if I could have found an engineer that did both the designs and special inspection that would have been preferable depending on price. The special inspection itself was very straightforward just a bit more logistics. The engineer I used didn't mention the need for special inspections, it would have been good to have known about them upfront.
As for the amount saved, I imagine between 5-10k all included. If your crawlspace has enough height it isn't too difficult a job with a helper.
Thank you so much for your response!
1) How did you work around the missing top plate?
2) Was that Oscillating tool (flush-cut saw) effective in cutting the old-growth redwood mudsill flush?
For the missing top plate I ended up building up the rim joist to sit flush with the cripple wall studs. This meant sistering the rim joist with another 2x6 and then adding a piece of plywood to get it completely flush. Only need to do it where your shear panels are going.
As for cutting the mudsill flush, the oscillating tool was great, it takes a bit of time but does the job safely. I saw some people use a special circular saw that is able to cut right to the edge but that's probably expensive and more dangerous as you're cutting down to the concrete foundation. Good luck!
@@bayareabrit Thanks
Hey Francis I live in Oakland as well in the tescal area- how much were permits for the retro?
Hey Kevin. We had two options, there was a fixed fee of $200 but it required a pre inspection or $440 which meant I could get the permit over the counter the same day. I ended up going for the latter because of time constraints, kinda ridiculous they have the different prices but what can you do!
@@bayareabrit Great this is very very helpful! I am waiting to on Brace and Bolt to start the process
Good luck! EBB is definitely a help, covered the cost of the engineered designs, permit and special inspections for me.
Are you going to do the work yourself/with a friend?
@@bayareabrit The plan is to do most of the work myself, I actually already have plans from an engineer since my walls are over 4' so i'm just waiting for EBB to let me know if I got the grant or not.
What goes in first? The anchor bolts?
After all the blocking and preparation, the anchors go in first before any of the shearwalls or hold-downs.
@@FrancisWong thanks!
sounds like all that talk about pushing and stressing made somebody fart. :)
Zzzzzzz