Well, National Luna now has the Green Box that has a built in 25A DC-DC charger and Solar charger. It's not cheap but in my estimation what Andrew has built is a more expensive solution. This would work for anyone who had already bought the battery box before the new solution by the manufacturer was developed.
Makes perfect sense, and I agree. With your overlanding experience , you know very well by now what works and what doesn't. I mean overlanding is part of what you do.😎👋👍
Hi Andrew...... a question National Luna makes there own battery box with a built in 12v 25Amp Dc-Dc charger and a MPPT controller So why does Klarmann take away National Luna stuff and put there own in ?
The national luna green box is the box you're looking for. It has a DC to DC charger and solar input with mppt. No mods needed. Green box. Not the blue one.
@@mattmort2831 I'm curious to know why you say the green box comes with "crap" charger? As far as I know it's the National Luna 25A DC-DC charger, which I'm yet to read anything bad about. If it's simply "because it's not a Redarc", then your argument is fairly pointless.
I've got one. The 25amp DC to DC charger has worked very well for me. It's lithium compatible, did a 10 day trip and didn't even have to take my solar panel out once. I was very impressed.
@@deanvdw I recently bought the 40A charger with a lithium battery for an upcoming trip where there won't be enough driving for my solenoid grey box and not enough standing for solar panels. Preliminary tests that I have done seem VERY promising.
I have owned a couple of T30 Xtrails in the past and if it were me, I would not add the extra weight and expense of a second battery system. From memory it is very easy to fit the larger N70 battery under the bonnet instead of the original cranking battery. Run the fridge and whatever directly off that battery, given the fridge has its own low voltage cutout, and as a backup carry a Lithium jump starter (which every vehicle should carry anyway). Also, that battery will be topped up with portable solar so you'll never see less than 12.0V. The Xtrail will start at quite a low voltage anyway - after all its only a petrol 2.4 motor and the battery you fit has 800 cca. This is something I've done will multiple vehicles for family and friends - KISS at its best.
He is my son-in-law. She is my daughter. We speak, and they told me what they want. This is it. Lowest cost, for highest efficiency. This has got nothing to do with the Xtrail. there's nothing special about it, and what I suggested will work for any car. KISS?? Any simpler and efficiency is lost in spades. They did ask me to provide something that would work well. Not something that would 'sort of work okay'.
@@4xoverland All good Andrew! We all have different needs and solutions and like you I am lucky enough to have kids who are sharing the same love of remote touring. Its been fun setting up their vehicles too. And I'm travelling from Adelaide to Kalgoorlie in about 2 weeks in our Troopy and Tvan - will keep an eye out for your Rangie.
In America here. I went cheap on my charging system. I have a 20A Ctek DC-DC charger in my engine bay. It charges from my cranking battery plus a solar panel on the roof. Trouble free for two years. Fully, fully charges, and much cheaper than anything from redarc.
Oh Andrew, an alternator can't over charge a battery or we'd all be in trouble. This is old tech. There was a regulator. Probably still is. The efficacy problem you're referring to is when the capacity of the auxiliary battery exceeds that of the cranking battery. i.e the cranking battery hits capacity, the alternator drops amps and while one battery fills to the brim the other stops receiving charge until the cranking battery charge stops. This is why it makes absolutely no difference if you use a VSR or similar.
G'day Andrew, Firstly I do understand very clearly what you are trying to achieve in supplying a simple, basic & affordable second battery & that is exactly what you have achieved & supplied. However I do not agree with your statements & point blank negative outlook regarding the fitment of a Battery Isolator/Switching Solenoid for the charging of a Second Battery. I have used a REDARC SB1224 Battery Isolator with Dual Sensing for quite some years & no they do not have "lots of connections" the REDARC has (1) + Positive IN (from truck battery) (1) + Positive OUT (to second battery) then there is (1) SBD - Ground (to the solenoid mount bolt) & (1) SBD + Positive (to a momentary switch for emergency cranking). The SBD's + Positive & - Negative are part of the SBD, the only cable between the two batteries & there fuses to be cut is the Positive cable the Negative battery cable & its fuses is not cut or needed for the SBD. So my point is that there are not a heap of connections, There are not a mass of different sized wires, there is battery IN battery OUT & two 2.5mm wires to a momentary switch. Finally the voltage drop is minimal, the SBD uses 40mm² or 1 B&S battery cable both IN & OUT capable of running continuously @ 200 AMP with an In-rush capacity of 600 AMPs, which I believe is far more capable. Running the connection through an Anderson plug you actually have Twice the voltage drop because you have resistance & voltage drop through both the + Positive & - Negative cables & there are 4 crimps. I can only assume that you have either been given some pretty crappy advice on the Solenoid setup or you have previously used or owned some real crap solenoid setup's over your many years. Safe & Happy Adventures Mate, Steve.
Hey mate I have a very similar setup and my vehicle has an old constant 14.4v alternator. I used 35mm² and ran it to the aux battery in the tub and back to the neg on the starter battery. Less than 0.01v drop. I'm sure a DCDC will charger it better but considering the cost I think the SBI is fine. Mine runs an Engel everyday and the car is only driven about 30 mins a day. It'll even be running Monday morning if I don't drive over the weekend
Yes Andrew I agree with you. The USA is behind. I'm an automotive technician and your right. I feel like i'm beeting my head against a brick wall and nobody wants to listen. Im starting an overland build on my 1999 Chevy suburban. Most of the gear i have to order online or i cant get at all. Nobody carries it local. Thanks for all you do may God bless you and your family.
this is the best set up. I have built the same using the national luna dc to dc 25 amp charger. but to keep cost down i used a simple battery box and installed other connections such as extra usb and anderson plugs to run fridges lights and pumps. i did not connect the trigger cable to the ignition but rather to a switch this way i have full control. i can disconnect the battery system and take it out in less than 2 mins if needed:)
I love all your videos, so much helpful info. I just went back to the very first video on your channel so I can start watching them all. You are a legend in the world of 4x4s, overlanding & film making. I'm so very grateful for all the content you have shared with the world & yes you have a made the world a better place because of it............knowledge is power & I thank you for sharing it.
The second cheapest option would be to set up a buzzer using the cars existing buzzer system that goes off if the auxilliary battery has not been disconnected. Kind of like the warning if you have left your lights on.
This is a system I had used years ago when a lot of fancy gear was just out of my reach! You only forget to disconnect second battery once Then lesson learned and move on Brilliant series as always Thanks
I'm not expecting you to read this Andrew, as it's quite long and I know you don't like long... but it is a positive post! yey! :-) I actually rate cigar lighter type outputs at >2A constant; I have burned at least 3 out on phone chargers! I agree they are totally worthless, so much so that I an only having one for temporary items like passengers... As for DC/DC "chargers" the inefficiency is in the unit and they must be as close to the charging battery as possible! Here is the simplified science: To get your needed voltage at the battery say 10m away in the trailer, you need to input 1-3v over the system output voltage so that subjects all of your vehicle electrics to excess voltage - that is bad. So, the DC/DC inverter takes the 12v (assuming a 2v volt drop for the cable run) and inverts the voltage at a cost, that cost is inefficiency limitation and heat. This is explainable in Watts (W). Most things have a Watt rating printed on them, W = V x A. so lets go with a 300W device, the draw at 14v is 21.42A, at 12v, its 25A. That makes the low voltage 3.58A less efficient. That is a 50W loss in real terms. With the DC/DC inverter this loss is increased draw to make up for the loss in volt drop, so the same item actually costs 50W plus the conversion factors for the invertion (usually about 10-15%). In real terms this means your 25A at the battery 10m away costs 30A from the vehicle, into the DC/DC inverter. This is actually fine, but you need to compensate for the input differences as you can't get sommething for nothing. The benefit is you get a properly charged battery, the draw from the vehicle is also capped, so will never exceed 30A on a 25A output of the DC/DC inverter.
Dcdc chargers to a second battery are now obsolete. Lithium starter batteries now replace old dcdc charging of a heavy second battery. One battery does winching, starting, fridge, lights etc etc. I have one 80 amp lithium extreme battery that does everything. 100watt solar panel permanently mounted on the bonnet by Cascadia Off-road in Canada charges it during the day and puts in over 35 amps in sunny conditions. If I ever need to charge cause of cloudy weather I start the car. Alternator chargers with a higher amp than nearly all dcdc chargers and lithium sucks the amps in quickly. Weight saving having one lithium battery compared to a lead acid battery and a AGM deep cycle is over 36kgs. One battery with no dcdc charger etc equals less problems and will last over 15 years.
Hve made my own box about 5 years ago with a CTEK D250 DC/DC charger. As the Lithium batteries at that time were unaffordable, I installed a AGM battery. A bit heavy to lug around, but it works. All outputs are fused, the Volt meter has a switch you press to show the charge, so that it is not constant on, also fused. Not cigi plugs used as they are useless, used proper plugs such as Anderson, Hella. As the AGM will die one day the Lithium is on the list. Plus the new CTEK DC/DC charger, which has the charging curve for the Lithium batteries build into too. The whole setup need to be fastend down to prevent it moving. Also the cables (fused) from main battery to the unit don't need to be outrageous big, I used 16 sqmm. Don't use car body as your ground, (minus) use same cable size to your main battery as the positive is.
If a solenoid has so much voltage drop. Why would they use them for starter motors, winches, and the main ignition circuits in trucks and earthmoving gear? The solar panel on the correct profile will charge the AGM to 100% Have absolutely no issue with the simple cost effective Anderson plug set up. Keep the videos comming been a follower of the Chanel for years now. 👍🏿
Heh, didn't comment on your previous video simply because I didn't have anything to add. You're absolutely correct though. If I was to do anything different it'd simply be to use a panel-mounted Anderson plug to create a more "formal" place to plug the battery box into. Beyond that, it'd be DC/DC charger all the way, much like the battery box you're showing here.
I like the Klarmon solution but before it came out i went with the Engel Battery Box which has an inbuilt DC to DC charger - has worked brilliantly for me so far.
I think part of the issue that people in the US think that solenoid charging is good (I'm a Brit living in the US by the way) is purely that 99% of people never get more than 50 miles from a paved road and external electrical hookups, they rarely have fridges in their vehicles and rarely run into power issues. I run a couple of really nice Renology DC DC charger in my truck that fixes all of my charging issues in both my Jeep and Nissan truck. But I'm unique in my uses. Thanks for another great video, hopefully, the whole #vanlife crowd will also look at this video!
Yep they’re a great option. For someone who loves building 4wd’s I would love to show you my Fj one day , for its limited space so much thinking outside the plug n play had to be done to achieve its fantastic off grid capabilities. Can’t wait to see your Range Rover such a sexy vehicle
Back in the 1970s I was the auto electrician at Prestige motors Perth. At Prestige we would fit out Arkana vans for the nurses that traveled the outback missions. They were converted FJ and HJ 47s (into panel vans). Any way we fitted them with twin batteries, the second to run their Engel fridges where they kept the medicines. All they had were two 400amp battery idolators mounted to the firewall with the handles inside the cab to control which battery they ran off to keep the medicines cool. Now if they could work out which battery to use surely today's intelligent 4x4rers can remember to disconnect a flippen battery at days end. PS We did eventually also fit the vehicles with diode battery isolators put together by us as well.They were extremely grateful
Hi Andrew: Great little Battery Box concept. Congrats to Heiner for the neat execution with the BCDC (Battery Charger Direct Current = DC-DC Charger by Redarc). Of course adding a BCDC does increase the cost, but as long as the unit is very long lived and "does what it is supposed to" - it makes a very simple automated but still portable system. It is nice to have a small flexible output unit with Hella, Cig, USB and Anderson connectors mean you can Run the Fridge, Power Lights etc , remotely from the vehicle... (some Anderson extension cables can also be handy to have.) I did that a few years ago - I bought the Redarc BCDC with solar MPPT inbuilt (1225D) and to keep the whole thing absolutely flexible merely connected all the outputs with Anderson Plugs, not as "efficient as using bolted connectors, but extremely easy to throw in the back of the Ute for a weekend away (don't forget the solar panel) and then put back in the shed afterwards to act as an emergency / auxiliary power/UPS in the workshop (I still need to install colour-coded sockets so someone else doesn't mistakenly connect the Output to an input, or the wrong input - ie Yellow, Brown and Red inputs need to be used correctly.) . I still have my original setup with a 125Ah AGM and now a 1000W Pure Sine Wave inverter (With AC Pass-through for UPS functionality) for AC when needed - best to be used sparingly and if off grid, preferably with Solar or Vehicle charging assisting to maintain battery state.. (The usable Battery capacity with my AGM will only run the inverter with a full load for around an hour - hope to never actually need that.) - Very useful to have a 25Amp (or bigger) smart charger / Maintainer with the unit at all times - it is helpful to be able to boost charge occasionally when mains power is available.
I've seen these many times and was not sure if I should spend R10 000 on this unit ... now I know I have to get one. Thank you Andrew. Johann - Pretoria
A direct connection will always be more efficient. The battery box (solenoid) also requires you to charge your battery to 100% using an AC charger. Dc to DC boxes are a bit more expensive though 😅. Also National Lunar is also good in my opinion. There is already a battery box they make that has all those connections. It is the green box but costs R9,000 (i want that thing). I currently have the grey box which has a built in solenoid and most of those outputs (no solar input but green box has one) and that cost less than R3,000.
Lovely Ep, I have used that same cheap Anderson plug set up to connect to 1 or 2 extra batteries in the backs of my 4wds for four 4wds it just works, But I agree with you completely, its not as good with AGMs, I have to get a dcdc charger now, thank you love you shows
Andrew, re your basic dual battery set up. You have overlooked one thing, battery equalizing, I know as I had similar simple system, way back in 1978 in my new fj40 Toyota. What happened was after a short drive the next day and then stopping , usually to get ice or supplies etc , (never a pub of course) the tojo wouldn't start , as I had two equalized batteries..but the were both half flat! Also they will do this very quickly due to the good quality connection to the 2 nd battery. Luckily the old girl had a crank handle . Just my 2 bobs worth mate.
I'd like you to produce a video explaining what you consider a sponsorship. In this video alone you mentioned two companies that gave you products, and you endorsed them in this video, yet you say you aren't sponsored by one and the other just that you've "worked with them a long time". Maybe it's a difference in word choice, but here in the United States, that's textbook sponsorship and has to be disclosed as a paid promotion on TH-cam. I'm not clear about TH-cam's terms of service regarding paid promotions in Australia.
Are jackery/yeti “not solar generators” available in Australia? Besides a slower charge time they arent much more than a lithium battery here in the USA. They arent the most robust but for a weekend vehicle its not a critical system.
Loved my T31. Had a T32 as well, nowhere near as good. Had a similar power set up but with dc-dc on the battery box & solar panel on the roof racks all done with plugs. 40lt Engel & side awning. T31 had the inbuilt draws which took enough gear for me. Still room to sleep in the back. Easy to clip out the back seats (bottoms) which gave heaps of storage room. Could pack up & go away for a long weekend then literally 20 mins to unpack the whole car when you get home & quickly turns back into a comfortable daily driver like it was never there. Put the battery on a good charger in the shed when not in use.
This isn't a Millennials issue, Andrew. It's the unnecessary introduction of a permutation of Murphy's Law. There's no technical loss in charge here. Alternator Regulators see to that even in older vehicles. It's just silly to reduce this to generational issues.
Great video, but as said by others. If you buy the Green National Luna box there is a DC-DC 25Amp charger already fitted into the box so I don't see why you would want to buy a Black or blue battery box and then fit the DC-DC on yourself?
My solenoid is charging at 14v. And my solar can also get the extra 10/20% charge so it is able to charge to 100% I use solar to charge the batteries solenoid is used when I cook with electric or run the air comp, ie I start the car to cook with my rice cooker ect.
Clearly explained Andrew, bravo to you & convince me to buy one with Amptron battery. We exchange email with Perth Pro Auto Electric Parts the sales person name Matt Mortensen for further inquiry, but sad to say it didn't push through. I think Matt don't believed Im buying.
I’ve just had a look on the National Luna site and they do the “Power Pack DC25” interested to hear you opinions on this. Having a removable basic install is something that I would prefer. Good work Andrew.
Solenoid will charge a battery for 30% SOC to 80% SOC much quicker than a DC-DC charger (even a 25A one) when fitted on an older vehicle (not a temp compensating/smart alternator). There is certainly a place for solenoids over DC-DC chargers in this scenario. More efficient and will provide significantly more Amp Hours in the same period of driving then a DC-DC will. For eg, the Victron Cyrix Battery Combiner can take 120A continuous (noted that most alternators wont produce this level) and has minimal/insignificant current consumption when open (
Nice overview. Just a small con of the Redarc (although I love them) - they don't accept higher voltages. I carry a 30V 250watt house solar panel which is mounted to my Cub, and I can charge very quickly via a "reasonable" Ebay MPPT which accepts up to 36V. No mucking around with DC-DC chargers or plugging anything in each time you drive (although I am about to install a Redarc unit for in-car uses).
Ronny had one as well (battery).. They must be handing them out for review. They look like a good battery solution. Might work for my 3rd battery for longer trips.
@@Malc664 Its just marketing and advertising, they would have to pay one way or the other to get the word out. But yes, there is a lot of nice but expensive gadgets around these days. People use to camp to save money, now its as expensive as a 5 star hotel if you let it. :)
@@Malc664 but to be fair, they are saving the average punter a lot of time researching and such and the loss of money on failed projects. Andrew won this knowledge through economic loss which he was able to recoup by sharing that knowledge. Yes, it's marketing but it's not unethical at all.
🤣ha, don't know why I chuckled other than you are 💯% correct! The North American market on many fronts is totally behind the curve. Pathetic really...🤷♂️. That dc/dc battery box combo is Wonderful. A cost breakdown would be great. Really enjoy this series. Cheers 🍻, G.
If the disconnecting thing is that big of an issue for people add a relay you can get 100amp relays for around 50 bucks hook it too ignition will be fine
The battery efficiency completely dominates - lead acid is least efficient because of it’s impedance, simple as that. You could put a petrol generator and a 50A charger on a trailer and lead acid will still take forever to charge. LiFePO4 creates different challenges, like ‘I have too much solar’. $300, Jaycar.
I think you need to TEST DC power drain.. No matter what hiner builds for you , note as i have told you before you might have a charge isolation on your hands however you are still passing current between both or the series of batts you are using.. yup I think you'll most in north america rub 2-5kw gensets in their builds meaning they do a lot of Vac based camping as batteries tend fail in cold temps we typically don't see in Australia in winter and overlanding as seen in europe, Africa, Australia in terms to DC>AC has onlt been in the mindset in the last 15-20 years and been done commercially for the last 10 or so years or less and even less within what you do as dc as a power source has only become popular in the 2-6 years..
Watching this video my OCD is killing me, the little containers in the background, red, blue red = no worries, it's the blue, grey, grey that is doing my head in :) Not being a millennial, the idea of unplugging the starter battery from the house battery just seems like good sense to me. I love the battery box but I am betting it is out of my price range.
If the Redarc BCDC is too expensive there are less Expensive options these days - wasn't always the case. (Victron (Smart with bluetooth)), Enerdrive, "Adventure Kings, etc) - the all in one boxes are always "pricey". For a lot of people a small Battery combined with a Petrol Genset for occasion al use is a lot more affordable than a big Lithium battery. (It is way more efficient running a correctly sized generator (where permitted) to charge a battery than to idle your main Vehicle engine -for extended camp stay, or Overcast weathe -. AND a Generator is so-much less outlay than nearly ANY _decently sized_ lithium Battery.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the US is behind in overlanding and overlanding products BECAUSE we have twice as many paved roads going everywhere in the US. This is why some here in the US would think overlanding is really just camping in an off-road vehicle. To my knowledge, overlanding in the US is difficult because of the LACK of dirt roads Yes, there are some but they aren't as long or as remote as in other parts of the world.
Great video as usual, I think I need to make a scaled down version of this box for my Jimny! I've decided not to 'install' things into it and rather make it a modular setup so I can be creative with the minimal space. I don't have a need for fridges in my country but I would like to have a handy aux power box. I wonder what Dave Jones (eevblog) would make of all of this.
I am not disagreeing that dc/dc is great but it can be vehicle specific. I run a discovery 3 with computerised high output alternator. Traxide systems appear to have a far more efficient system for these kind of alternators, I have been running it for over a year and it’s pretty impressive. Maybe check out their explanation of why it’s more efficient ?
I don't think it's fair to say that there are NO automatic charge relays that are any good. The Blue Sea ACR is quite good for automating a second battery charging solution, at least as good as it is possible to be. Used with properly sized cables it will perform identically to a direct connection. The Blue Sea ACR is a good under hood solution when you have a secondary battery of the same chemistry as the start battery, in fact it can be a better solution in that case, able to handle 120 amps of charge current. It's relatively expensive though, and half the cost of a DC-DC charger which is a superior solution in many cases. What you didn't stress is that a DC-DC charger can actually BOOST voltage to charge the battery it is connected to, that's why it is so much better, it also allows the second battery to be any chemistry you want AGM or Lithium is no problem.
I was going to say the same thing. There is no appreciable voltage drop across our $50 Blue Sea ACR as measured by my Fluke meter. We use AGM starting and house batteries. The only issue is getting the alternator to properly charge them, which we get around by having an AC charger sitting in our driveway all the time. Still, the system worked well enough on a 7 week trip to Central America with no AC help.
You did a great job in the previous video of good fusing and conductor size, and of dealing with the most common problems of corrosion and vibration. Now you are ranting about solenoids. Right on. A solenoid is a fat relay. In industry, you can get a rough idea of the trouble potential of a system by counting the relays. Relays are to be avoided. The one exception is the automotive cube relays (20 / 30 Amp), which have been refined over years. And they fail after 20 years or so.
hi Andrew that's a very nice setup, you did forget to mention that for a setup like that you should try and get components that are water and dust proof (resistant IP rating) or as close to as possible 👍
Are they using the solar blanket from Ep.1? It should do a pretty good job at a maintenance top up charge if they get enough time parked. I haven't had much faith in the Redarc Dc Dc since it allowed itself to destroy your 79 crank battery.
I carry jumper cables for a flat battery and would add a lithium jump box. I might forget once in a while. Worst case I carry a list of important things to remember like unplugging the battery.
@@andrewcolley1661 I agree with the design. I was just thinking about when I personally forget to unplug, I would have a backup system to start the vehicle. If another vehicle was available, I could use the jumper cables, if not the lithium jumper box and make sure to recharge it after each use. During my career I worked on Telecommunications systems, I always created backups for my backups. I also wrote manuals with lists for use and maintenance, including step by step procedures with colored pictures showing each step so anyone could use the system even if they weren't familiar with it.
@@done591030 Works well in the context of back of power for an exchange or mobile site I guess (though I'm a little surprised a telco would leave anything like manual connect/disconnect to chance for critical infrastructure with the all tech at their disposal if I'm understanding you correctly). Now pull into a camp site as the light is dying and unfed kids are crying and the tent isn't set up or the trailer/van needs to be unhitched and there's rain threatening etc etc.
Without using the cigarette lighter plug itself you could use the lighter electrical network (particularly if it's behind a 20A fuse on this car) to get a commuted electrical network for free.
I may be lucky... but on 10-12 hour trips I constantly charge a cooling box my phone and the kids Ipads with one cigarette socket.... (most of the time two mobile devices and the fridge draw current). It always works fine. (That is of course not overland but - mostly french - autobahn.... maybe rhat makes a difference!?)
How does this compare (price and performance/quality wise) to these of the shelf portable power stations? I do recognize that the battery box solution is more customizable and easier to replace one part if needed.
That National Luna box looks amazing, I would love to see something like that here in the USA. For a lithium battery does it have voltage cutoff? Or do you just have to keep an eye on it and turn it off before it damages the battery?
National Luna sells a Green Box version which has a built in DC-DC charger that’s lithium and solar compatible. National Luna products are available in the US.
@@gunfupanda4256 hi there I have the option to get both I'm running a alicool fridge and a few accessories nothing major with a 200W solar set up no which one do I get the luna green box or this 1 in the video ? Any advice would be handy 😎
@@s.wvazim6517 I would just get the Luna Green Box. It’s available as a 25A or 40A. It also has a 220v charger port where you can plug the National Luna battery charger in. It’s a great unit.
I really like those systems. But Why is this one from Klarmann better then the green box from national luna with there own build in dcdc charger? Thanks for all the very use full info. Its nice to learn a lot from you.
Just a niggly safety note on liquids on or higher than any electrical equipment, they can suddenly obey Murphy’s law with outcomes no one desires , mostly encouraging equipment to part with their inherent smoke component !
Can you please supply the list of vehicles you narrowed down? So far Nissan Xtrail..Subaru Forester...suzuki grand vitara.. but i noticed you had some 'except for' after 2008 because AWD vs 4x4... is there a more comprehensive list with caveats you developed?
I am sorry your but your voltage drop theory is wrong, I have a Projecta DBC150 battery isolator and have used for years $110 not so dear and automatic. Point is works fine charges the 2nd battery at 14.4 volts and the battery is always toped up ! And yes I think they probably use relays no other way to do it economically
It does not make much sense to me unless the dual battery system design is your major hobby. You can always buy a dual battery system controller like CTEK D250SA 12V 20A for 250 euros or so. And you can connect a solar panel, too.
Hey there Ronnie ! It would be great if you could do a video on steel drop side trays verses aluminium tray backs , the pros and cons ....... What style of tray to suit the different ways of camping / 4wheeling ?? Cheers . from Alkimos
The aim was, cheapest for most efficient. Not everyone will agree with my path to this goal, but this is how I would do it.
I'm watching these videos very intently. I need all of the info as I'm still learning. Thank you :)
Well, National Luna now has the Green Box that has a built in 25A DC-DC charger and Solar charger. It's not cheap but in my estimation what Andrew has built is a more expensive solution. This would work for anyone who had already bought the battery box before the new solution by the manufacturer was developed.
Makes perfect sense, and I agree.
With your overlanding experience , you know very well by now what works and what doesn't.
I mean overlanding is part of what you do.😎👋👍
👍
Hi Andrew...... a question
National Luna makes there own battery box with a built in 12v 25Amp Dc-Dc charger and a MPPT controller
So why does Klarmann take away National Luna stuff and put there own in ?
The national luna green box is the box you're looking for. It has a DC to DC charger and solar input with mppt. No mods needed. Green box. Not the blue one.
@@mattmort2831 I'm curious to know why you say the green box comes with "crap" charger? As far as I know it's the National Luna 25A DC-DC charger, which I'm yet to read anything bad about. If it's simply "because it's not a Redarc", then your argument is fairly pointless.
I've got one. The 25amp DC to DC charger has worked very well for me. It's lithium compatible, did a 10 day trip and didn't even have to take my solar panel out once. I was very impressed.
@@deanvdw I recently bought the 40A charger with a lithium battery for an upcoming trip where there won't be enough driving for my solenoid grey box and not enough standing for solar panels. Preliminary tests that I have done seem VERY promising.
I have owned a couple of T30 Xtrails in the past and if it were me, I would not add the extra weight and expense of a second battery system. From memory it is very easy to fit the larger N70 battery under the bonnet instead of the original cranking battery. Run the fridge and whatever directly off that battery, given the fridge has its own low voltage cutout, and as a backup carry a Lithium jump starter (which every vehicle should carry anyway). Also, that battery will be topped up with portable solar so you'll never see less than 12.0V. The Xtrail will start at quite a low voltage anyway - after all its only a petrol 2.4 motor and the battery you fit has 800 cca. This is something I've done will multiple vehicles for family and friends - KISS at its best.
He is my son-in-law. She is my daughter. We speak, and they told me what they want. This is it. Lowest cost, for highest efficiency. This has got nothing to do with the Xtrail. there's nothing special about it, and what I suggested will work for any car. KISS?? Any simpler and efficiency is lost in spades. They did ask me to provide something that would work well. Not something that would 'sort of work okay'.
@@4xoverland All good Andrew! We all have different needs and solutions and like you I am lucky enough to have kids who are sharing the same love of remote touring. Its been fun setting up their vehicles too. And I'm travelling from Adelaide to Kalgoorlie in about 2 weeks in our Troopy and Tvan - will keep an eye out for your Rangie.
In America here. I went cheap on my charging system. I have a 20A Ctek DC-DC charger in my engine bay. It charges from my cranking battery plus a solar panel on the roof. Trouble free for two years. Fully, fully charges, and much cheaper than anything from redarc.
Oh Andrew, an alternator can't over charge a battery or we'd all be in trouble. This is old tech. There was a regulator. Probably still is. The efficacy problem you're referring to is when the capacity of the auxiliary battery exceeds that of the cranking battery. i.e the cranking battery hits capacity, the alternator drops amps and while one battery fills to the brim the other stops receiving charge until the cranking battery charge stops. This is why it makes absolutely no difference if you use a VSR or similar.
G'day Andrew, Firstly I do understand very clearly what you are trying to achieve in supplying a simple, basic & affordable second battery & that is exactly
what you have achieved & supplied.
However I do not agree with your statements & point blank negative outlook regarding the fitment of a Battery Isolator/Switching Solenoid for the charging of
a Second Battery. I have used a REDARC SB1224 Battery Isolator with Dual Sensing for quite some years & no they do not have "lots of connections" the REDARC
has (1) + Positive IN (from truck battery) (1) + Positive OUT (to second battery) then there is (1) SBD - Ground (to the solenoid mount bolt) & (1) SBD + Positive
(to a momentary switch for emergency cranking). The SBD's + Positive & - Negative are part of the SBD, the only cable between the two batteries & there fuses to
be cut is the Positive cable the Negative battery cable & its fuses is not cut or needed for the SBD.
So my point is that there are not a heap of connections, There are not a mass of different sized wires, there is battery IN battery OUT & two 2.5mm wires to a momentary
switch. Finally the voltage drop is minimal, the SBD uses 40mm² or 1 B&S battery cable both IN & OUT capable of running continuously @ 200 AMP with an In-rush capacity
of 600 AMPs, which I believe is far more capable.
Running the connection through an Anderson plug you actually have Twice the voltage drop because you have resistance & voltage drop through both
the + Positive & - Negative cables & there are 4 crimps. I can only assume that you have either been given some pretty crappy advice on the Solenoid setup or you have
previously used or owned some real crap solenoid setup's over your many years.
Safe & Happy Adventures Mate, Steve.
Hey mate I have a very similar setup and my vehicle has an old constant 14.4v alternator. I used 35mm² and ran it to the aux battery in the tub and back to the neg on the starter battery. Less than 0.01v drop. I'm sure a DCDC will charger it better but considering the cost I think the SBI is fine. Mine runs an Engel everyday and the car is only driven about 30 mins a day. It'll even be running Monday morning if I don't drive over the weekend
I’m loving this build series so far, and I believe it will be one of you most viewed as it’s not only budget it’s also beginner. Fantastic
Yes Andrew I agree with you. The USA is behind. I'm an automotive technician and your right. I feel like i'm beeting my head against a brick wall and nobody wants to listen. Im starting an overland build on my 1999 Chevy suburban. Most of the gear i have to order online or i cant get at all. Nobody carries it local. Thanks for all you do may God bless you and your family.
this is the best set up. I have built the same using the national luna dc to dc 25 amp charger. but to keep cost down i used a simple battery box and installed other connections such as extra usb and anderson plugs to run fridges lights and pumps. i did not connect the trigger cable to the ignition but rather to a switch this way i have full control. i can disconnect the battery system and take it out in less than 2 mins if needed:)
As a minimal you tuber and a customer of your Udemy courses, Andrew. Plus a viewer. I’d just like to say, you’re getting really good at this!
I love all your videos, so much helpful info. I just went back to the very first video on your channel so I can start watching them all. You are a legend in the world of 4x4s, overlanding & film making. I'm so very grateful for all the content you have shared with the world & yes you have a made the world a better place because of it............knowledge is power & I thank you for sharing it.
The second cheapest option would be to set up a buzzer using the cars existing buzzer system that goes off if the auxilliary battery has not been disconnected. Kind of like the warning if you have left your lights on.
This is a system I had used years ago when a lot of fancy gear was just out of my reach!
You only forget to disconnect second battery once
Then lesson learned and move on
Brilliant series as always
Thanks
I agree, forget once; sharp lesson!
Murphy's law
Don't forget the starter motor current draw 50 amp Anderson plugs 80 amp fuses = fire no you won't do it twice ha ha.
I'm not expecting you to read this Andrew, as it's quite long and I know you don't like long... but it is a positive post! yey! :-) I actually rate cigar lighter type outputs at >2A constant; I have burned at least 3 out on phone chargers! I agree they are totally worthless, so much so that I an only having one for temporary items like passengers... As for DC/DC "chargers" the inefficiency is in the unit and they must be as close to the charging battery as possible! Here is the simplified science: To get your needed voltage at the battery say 10m away in the trailer, you need to input 1-3v over the system output voltage so that subjects all of your vehicle electrics to excess voltage - that is bad. So, the DC/DC inverter takes the 12v (assuming a 2v volt drop for the cable run) and inverts the voltage at a cost, that cost is inefficiency limitation and heat. This is explainable in Watts (W). Most things have a Watt rating printed on them, W = V x A. so lets go with a 300W device, the draw at 14v is 21.42A, at 12v, its 25A. That makes the low voltage 3.58A less efficient. That is a 50W loss in real terms. With the DC/DC inverter this loss is increased draw to make up for the loss in volt drop, so the same item actually costs 50W plus the conversion factors for the invertion (usually about 10-15%). In real terms this means your 25A at the battery 10m away costs 30A from the vehicle, into the DC/DC inverter. This is actually fine, but you need to compensate for the input differences as you can't get sommething for nothing. The benefit is you get a properly charged battery, the draw from the vehicle is also capped, so will never exceed 30A on a 25A output of the DC/DC inverter.
Dcdc chargers to a second battery are now obsolete. Lithium starter batteries now replace old dcdc charging of a heavy second battery. One battery does winching, starting, fridge, lights etc etc. I have one 80 amp lithium extreme battery that does everything. 100watt solar panel permanently mounted on the bonnet by Cascadia Off-road in Canada charges it during the day and puts in over 35 amps in sunny conditions. If I ever need to charge cause of cloudy weather I start the car. Alternator chargers with a higher amp than nearly all dcdc chargers and lithium sucks the amps in quickly. Weight saving having one lithium battery compared to a lead acid battery and a AGM deep cycle is over 36kgs. One battery with no dcdc charger etc equals less problems and will last over 15 years.
If you want to remind yourself to dissconect the Andersonplugg, connect a light or a LED, that lights up when it's connected.
Or an annoying Buzzer - Ignition off, ? What is that racket? - oh duh I forgot to unplug the Aux Batt.... lol..
Hve made my own box about 5 years ago with a CTEK D250 DC/DC charger. As the Lithium batteries at that time were unaffordable, I installed a AGM battery. A bit heavy to lug around, but it works. All outputs are fused, the Volt meter has a switch you press to show the charge, so that it is not constant on, also fused. Not cigi plugs used as they are useless, used proper plugs such as Anderson, Hella. As the AGM will die one day the Lithium is on the list. Plus the new CTEK DC/DC charger, which has the charging curve for the Lithium batteries build into too.
The whole setup need to be fastend down to prevent it moving. Also the cables (fused) from main battery to the unit don't need to be outrageous big, I used 16 sqmm. Don't use car body as your ground, (minus) use same cable size to your main battery as the positive is.
National Luna make the best fridges! Second to none
👍😎cool. But are they available to North America?? Likely not.
As Andrew mentioned, behind the curve as always. 😡🤦♂️
@@PaydayGabeBCNV yes they are. Contact EQUIPT 1
If a solenoid has so much voltage drop. Why would they use them for starter motors, winches, and the main ignition circuits in trucks and earthmoving gear? The solar panel on the correct profile will charge the AGM to 100%
Have absolutely no issue with the simple cost effective Anderson plug set up. Keep the videos comming been a follower of the Chanel for years now. 👍🏿
Heh, didn't comment on your previous video simply because I didn't have anything to add.
You're absolutely correct though.
If I was to do anything different it'd simply be to use a panel-mounted Anderson plug to create a more "formal" place to plug the battery box into.
Beyond that, it'd be DC/DC charger all the way, much like the battery box you're showing here.
I like the Klarmon solution but before it came out i went with the Engel Battery Box which has an inbuilt DC to DC charger - has worked brilliantly for me so far.
I think part of the issue that people in the US think that solenoid charging is good (I'm a Brit living in the US by the way) is purely that 99% of people never get more than 50 miles from a paved road and external electrical hookups, they rarely have fridges in their vehicles and rarely run into power issues. I run a couple of really nice Renology DC DC charger in my truck that fixes all of my charging issues in both my Jeep and Nissan truck. But I'm unique in my uses. Thanks for another great video, hopefully, the whole #vanlife crowd will also look at this video!
Yep they’re a great option. For someone who loves building 4wd’s I would love to show you my Fj one day , for its limited space so much thinking outside the plug n play had to be done to achieve its fantastic off grid capabilities. Can’t wait to see your Range Rover such a sexy vehicle
G'day Terry, Are you originally from Burnley in the UK Mate ?
@@aussiedrifter no sorry mate from Sydney
@@terryoleary5424 No Worries Mate, & Thanks.
Back in the 1970s I was the auto electrician at Prestige motors Perth. At Prestige we would fit out Arkana vans for the nurses that traveled the outback missions. They were converted FJ and HJ 47s (into panel vans). Any way we fitted them with twin batteries, the second to run their Engel fridges where they kept the medicines. All they had were two 400amp battery idolators mounted to the firewall with the handles inside the cab to control which battery they ran off to keep the medicines cool. Now if they could work out which battery to use surely today's intelligent 4x4rers can remember to disconnect a flippen battery at days end. PS We did eventually also fit the vehicles with diode battery isolators put together by us as well.They were extremely grateful
Wonderful to see to learn that less becomes an easy way to have freedom moments which have potential to remain! Thanks and happy Eastern
I’ve been running dc to dc for five years never an issue, my mate has been running a solenoid with multiple issues, well worth the investment
Hi Andrew: Great little Battery Box concept. Congrats to Heiner for the neat execution with the BCDC
(Battery Charger Direct Current = DC-DC Charger by Redarc).
Of course adding a BCDC does increase the cost, but as long as the unit is very long lived and "does what it is supposed to" - it makes a very simple automated but still portable system.
It is nice to have a small flexible output unit with Hella, Cig, USB and Anderson connectors mean you can Run the Fridge, Power Lights etc , remotely from the vehicle... (some Anderson extension cables can also be handy to have.)
I did that a few years ago - I bought the Redarc BCDC with solar MPPT inbuilt (1225D) and to keep the whole thing absolutely flexible merely connected all the outputs with Anderson Plugs, not as "efficient as using bolted connectors, but extremely easy to throw in the back of the Ute for a weekend away (don't forget the solar panel) and then put back in the shed afterwards to act as an emergency / auxiliary power/UPS in the workshop (I still need to install colour-coded sockets so someone else doesn't mistakenly connect the Output to an input, or the wrong input - ie Yellow, Brown and Red inputs need to be used correctly.) .
I still have my original setup with a 125Ah AGM and now a 1000W Pure Sine Wave inverter (With AC Pass-through for UPS functionality) for AC when needed - best to be used sparingly and if off grid, preferably with Solar or Vehicle charging assisting to maintain battery state.. (The usable Battery capacity with my AGM will only run the inverter with a full load for around an hour - hope to never actually need that.) - Very useful to have a 25Amp (or bigger) smart charger / Maintainer with the unit at all times - it is helpful to be able to boost charge occasionally when mains power is available.
I've seen these many times and was not sure if I should spend R10 000 on this unit ... now I know I have to get one.
Thank you Andrew.
Johann - Pretoria
A direct connection will always be more efficient. The battery box (solenoid) also requires you to charge your battery to 100% using an AC charger. Dc to DC boxes are a bit more expensive though 😅.
Also National Lunar is also good in my opinion. There is already a battery box they make that has all those connections. It is the green box but costs R9,000 (i want that thing). I currently have the grey box which has a built in solenoid and most of those outputs (no solar input but green box has one) and that cost less than R3,000.
Lovely Ep, I have used that same cheap Anderson plug set up to connect to 1 or 2 extra batteries in the backs of my 4wds for four 4wds it just works, But I agree with you completely, its not as good with AGMs, I have to get a dcdc charger now, thank you love you shows
Those videos will save many lives.
Andrew, re your basic dual battery set up. You have overlooked one thing, battery equalizing, I know as I had similar simple system, way back in 1978 in my new fj40 Toyota. What happened was after a short drive the next day and then stopping , usually to get ice or supplies etc , (never a pub of course) the tojo wouldn't start , as I had two equalized batteries..but the were both half flat! Also they will do this very quickly due to the good quality connection to the 2 nd battery. Luckily the old girl had a crank handle . Just my 2 bobs worth mate.
Thanks Andrew. Good info and a good simple product. Useful for many purposes and in all vehicles. It's exactly what I want to hear about.
I love Simple Simon set ups ..
Great vid cheers !!
I'd like you to produce a video explaining what you consider a sponsorship. In this video alone you mentioned two companies that gave you products, and you endorsed them in this video, yet you say you aren't sponsored by one and the other just that you've "worked with them a long time". Maybe it's a difference in word choice, but here in the United States, that's textbook sponsorship and has to be disclosed as a paid promotion on TH-cam. I'm not clear about TH-cam's terms of service regarding paid promotions in Australia.
To be honest....the only channel I subscribe to on TH-cam that I look forward to watching...keep them coming 👍😀
Are jackery/yeti “not solar generators” available in Australia? Besides a slower charge time they arent much more than a lithium battery here in the USA. They arent the most robust but for a weekend vehicle its not a critical system.
I’m liking this rather than the big builds .
Love these videos I've even gained more confidence in tackling electricity
That Battery box is fantastic! Appreciate the rant and information
Fully agree 👍🏻 voltage drop on sigaret lighters are insane.. even on dedicated 240w outlets, on my wagon it falls to 10,3v when drawing even a100w
Use sigaret lighter socket in car only to light up your sigaret. Klaar.
240.... Something
Loved my T31. Had a T32 as well, nowhere near as good.
Had a similar power set up but with dc-dc on the battery box & solar panel on the roof racks all done with plugs. 40lt Engel & side awning. T31 had the inbuilt draws which took enough gear for me. Still room to sleep in the back. Easy to clip out the back seats (bottoms) which gave heaps of storage room. Could pack up & go away for a long weekend then literally 20 mins to unpack the whole car when you get home & quickly turns back into a comfortable daily driver like it was never there. Put the battery on a good charger in the shed when not in use.
This isn't a Millennials issue, Andrew. It's the unnecessary introduction of a permutation of Murphy's Law. There's no technical loss in charge here. Alternator Regulators see to that even in older vehicles. It's just silly to reduce this to generational issues.
The battery box is brilliant
I don’t like rants, except for uncle Andrew’s. His rants are cool. 😁
National luma also have the power pack dc40. Check it out, dc-dc charger and mpt solar charger standard to the unit. Same box, okay it’s green 😅
Great video, but as said by others. If you buy the Green National Luna box there is a DC-DC 25Amp charger already fitted into the box so I don't see why you would want to buy a Black or blue battery box and then fit the DC-DC on yourself?
My solenoid is charging at 14v. And my solar can also get the extra 10/20% charge so it is able to charge to 100% I use solar to charge the batteries solenoid is used when I cook with electric or run the air comp, ie I start the car to cook with my rice cooker ect.
Clearly explained Andrew, bravo to you & convince me to buy one with Amptron battery. We exchange email with Perth Pro Auto Electric Parts the sales person name Matt Mortensen for further inquiry, but sad to say it didn't push through. I think Matt don't believed Im buying.
"I love ranting about this sort of thing...*sighs*" Lol
I’ve just had a look on the National Luna site and they do the “Power Pack DC25” interested to hear you opinions on this. Having a removable basic install is something that I would prefer. Good work Andrew.
CTEK d250se and Smartpass. Simple, reliable and cost efficient.
Solenoid will charge a battery for 30% SOC to 80% SOC much quicker than a DC-DC charger (even a 25A one) when fitted on an older vehicle (not a temp compensating/smart alternator). There is certainly a place for solenoids over DC-DC chargers in this scenario. More efficient and will provide significantly more Amp Hours in the same period of driving then a DC-DC will. For eg, the Victron Cyrix Battery Combiner can take 120A continuous (noted that most alternators wont produce this level) and has minimal/insignificant current consumption when open (
Nice overview. Just a small con of the Redarc (although I love them) - they don't accept higher voltages. I carry a 30V 250watt house solar panel which is mounted to my Cub, and I can charge very quickly via a "reasonable" Ebay MPPT which accepts up to 36V. No mucking around with DC-DC chargers or plugging anything in each time you drive (although I am about to install a Redarc unit for in-car uses).
I agree. For pure solar, the Victron is my choice as it can handle higher panel voltage.
This budget build's electrical setup really appeals to me. I'm actually replicating it in my dual cab truck. I have a couple of questions though.
Ronny had one as well (battery).. They must be handing them out for review. They look like a good battery solution. Might work for my 3rd battery for longer trips.
Yes, nice for them to get handouts. It's becoming a rich man's game.
@@Malc664 Its just marketing and advertising, they would have to pay one way or the other to get the word out.
But yes, there is a lot of nice but expensive gadgets around these days. People use to camp to save money, now its as expensive as a 5 star hotel if you let it. :)
@@Malc664 but to be fair, they are saving the average punter a lot of time researching and such and the loss of money on failed projects. Andrew won this knowledge through economic loss which he was able to recoup by sharing that knowledge. Yes, it's marketing but it's not unethical at all.
@@Malc664 here's a tip.. don't buy the expensive stuff if you can't afford it... you're welcome
@@Malc664
The series is about being on a budget.
So not a rich man's game
That battery box is fantastic!! Love this!
Very close to a classic "Andrew Rant". If so, it is a damn good one! Full marks!
thank you for this video. this removable battery box would be ideal for my 100% original 300tdi discovery as I want to keep it 100% original.
🤣ha, don't know why I chuckled other than you are 💯% correct! The North American market on many fronts is totally behind the curve. Pathetic really...🤷♂️.
That dc/dc battery box combo is Wonderful.
A cost breakdown would be great.
Really enjoy this series.
Cheers 🍻, G.
If the disconnecting thing is that big of an issue for people add a relay you can get 100amp relays for around 50 bucks hook it too ignition will be fine
Thank you.. really appreciate this follow up.
The battery efficiency completely dominates - lead acid is least efficient because of it’s impedance, simple as that. You could put a petrol generator and a 50A charger on a trailer and lead acid will still take forever to charge.
LiFePO4 creates different challenges, like ‘I have too much solar’. $300, Jaycar.
Love that battery box. Well done Heiner.
I think you need to TEST DC power drain..
No matter what hiner builds for you , note as i have told you before you might have a charge isolation on your hands however you are still passing current between both or the series of batts you are using..
yup I think you'll most in north america rub 2-5kw gensets in their builds meaning they do a lot of Vac based camping as batteries tend fail in cold temps we typically don't see in Australia in winter
and overlanding as seen in europe, Africa, Australia in terms to DC>AC has onlt been in the mindset in the last 15-20 years and been done commercially for the last 10 or so years or less and even less within what you do as dc as a power source has only become popular in the 2-6 years..
Watching this video my OCD is killing me, the little containers in the background, red, blue red = no worries, it's the blue, grey, grey that is doing my head in :) Not being a millennial, the idea of unplugging the starter battery from the house battery just seems like good sense to me. I love the battery box but I am betting it is out of my price range.
If the Redarc BCDC is too expensive there are less Expensive options these days - wasn't always the case. (Victron (Smart with bluetooth)), Enerdrive, "Adventure Kings, etc)
- the all in one boxes are always "pricey". For a lot of people a small Battery combined with a Petrol Genset for occasion al use is a lot more affordable than a big Lithium battery. (It is way more efficient running a correctly sized generator (where permitted) to charge a battery than to idle your main Vehicle engine -for extended camp stay, or Overcast weathe -. AND a Generator is so-much less outlay than nearly ANY _decently sized_ lithium Battery.
I would consider covering the insulation in your new shop. Great info and videos btw👍🏻
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the US is behind in overlanding and overlanding products BECAUSE we have twice as many paved roads going everywhere in the US. This is why some here in the US would think overlanding is really just camping in an off-road vehicle. To my knowledge, overlanding in the US is difficult because of the LACK of dirt roads Yes, there are some but they aren't as long or as remote as in other parts of the world.
Great video as usual, I think I need to make a scaled down version of this box for my Jimny! I've decided not to 'install' things into it and rather make it a modular setup so I can be creative with the minimal space. I don't have a need for fridges in my country but I would like to have a handy aux power box. I wonder what Dave Jones (eevblog) would make of all of this.
I am not disagreeing that dc/dc is great but it can be vehicle specific. I run a discovery 3 with computerised high output alternator. Traxide systems appear to have a far more efficient system for these kind of alternators, I have been running it for over a year and it’s pretty impressive. Maybe check out their explanation of why it’s more efficient ?
You’re not wrong about us in the States lagging behind with the DC-to-DC, but we’re even further behind in solar blankets.
you could use a relay to disconnect power when the ignition is off and the loss would be negligible.
I don't think it's fair to say that there are NO automatic charge relays that are any good. The Blue Sea ACR is quite good for automating a second battery charging solution, at least as good as it is possible to be. Used with properly sized cables it will perform identically to a direct connection. The Blue Sea ACR is a good under hood solution when you have a secondary battery of the same chemistry as the start battery, in fact it can be a better solution in that case, able to handle 120 amps of charge current. It's relatively expensive though, and half the cost of a DC-DC charger which is a superior solution in many cases. What you didn't stress is that a DC-DC charger can actually BOOST voltage to charge the battery it is connected to, that's why it is so much better, it also allows the second battery to be any chemistry you want AGM or Lithium is no problem.
I was going to say the same thing. There is no appreciable voltage drop across our $50 Blue Sea ACR as measured by my Fluke meter. We use AGM starting and house batteries. The only issue is getting the alternator to properly charge them, which we get around by having an AC charger sitting in our driveway all the time. Still, the system worked well enough on a 7 week trip to Central America with no AC help.
You did a great job in the previous video of good fusing and conductor size, and of dealing with the most common problems of corrosion and vibration. Now you are ranting about solenoids. Right on. A solenoid is a fat relay. In industry, you can get a rough idea of the trouble potential of a system by counting the relays. Relays are to be avoided. The one exception is the automotive cube relays (20 / 30 Amp), which have been refined over years. And they fail after 20 years or so.
hi Andrew that's a very nice setup, you did forget to mention that for a setup like that you should try and get components that are water and dust proof (resistant IP rating) or as close to as possible 👍
Waterproof?
Are they using the solar blanket from Ep.1? It should do a pretty good job at a maintenance top up charge if they get enough time parked.
I haven't had much faith in the Redarc Dc Dc since it allowed itself to destroy your 79 crank battery.
Bang to rights Andrew, I’m in the same mindset as you KISS (keep it simple stupid) it simply meets the needs for the job 👍
A low voltage alarm on the crank battery would act as a good safeguard in case they forget to disconnect the house battery
What do you think of the projector power hub battery box looks like a very neat and tidy unit with a 300 W power inverter built-in
Andrew: Let me explain about cigarette lighters ...... they are useless.
Me: Uh, not explained, but accept it as fact, absolutely.
Good one... exactly what I'm doing in my rig :-) :-)
I carry jumper cables for a flat battery and would add a lithium jump box. I might forget once in a while. Worst case I carry a list of important things to remember like unplugging the battery.
I really think this needs context.
@@andrewcolley1661 I agree with the design. I was just thinking about when I personally forget to unplug, I would have a backup system to start the vehicle. If another vehicle was available, I could use the jumper cables, if not the lithium jumper box and make sure to recharge it after each use. During my career I worked on Telecommunications systems, I always created backups for my backups. I also wrote manuals with lists for use and maintenance, including step by step procedures with colored pictures showing each step so anyone could use the system even if they weren't familiar with it.
@@done591030 Works well in the context of back of power for an exchange or mobile site I guess (though I'm a little surprised a telco would leave anything like manual connect/disconnect to chance for critical infrastructure with the all tech at their disposal if I'm understanding you correctly). Now pull into a camp site as the light is dying and unfed kids are crying and the tent isn't set up or the trailer/van needs to be unhitched and there's rain threatening etc etc.
Without using the cigarette lighter plug itself you could use the lighter electrical network (particularly if it's behind a 20A fuse on this car) to get a commuted electrical network for free.
Behind which battery?
I may be lucky... but on 10-12 hour trips I constantly charge a cooling box my phone and the kids Ipads with one cigarette socket.... (most of the time two mobile devices and the fridge draw current). It always works fine. (That is of course not overland but - mostly french - autobahn.... maybe rhat makes a difference!?)
A troop carrier on order! Back to what works! Yes!
On order? Really, you can still order them. That's fantastic.
How does this compare (price and performance/quality wise) to these of the shelf portable power stations?
I do recognize that the battery box solution is more customizable and easier to replace one part if needed.
That National Luna box looks amazing, I would love to see something like that here in the USA. For a lithium battery does it have voltage cutoff? Or do you just have to keep an eye on it and turn it off before it damages the battery?
National Luna sells a Green Box version which has a built in DC-DC charger that’s lithium and solar compatible. National Luna products are available in the US.
@@gunfupanda4256 hi there I have the option to get both I'm running a alicool fridge and a few accessories nothing major with a 200W solar set up no which one do I get the luna green box or this 1 in the video ? Any advice would be handy 😎
@@s.wvazim6517 I would just get the Luna Green Box. It’s available as a 25A or 40A. It also has a 220v charger port where you can plug the National Luna battery charger in. It’s a great unit.
I really like those systems. But Why is this one from Klarmann better then the green box from national luna with there own build in dcdc charger?
Thanks for all the very use full info. Its nice to learn a lot from you.
Great info! Would love your opinion on the Goal Zero option in the US.
What about that soler power blanket you showed us. Is it any good?
RV manufacturers in the USA seem to think there are only two options, solenoid or understood generator ( 2nd alternator).
Could you do a video about the detail of your shower installation?
Please!
Just a niggly safety note on liquids on or higher than any electrical equipment, they can suddenly obey Murphy’s law with outcomes no one desires , mostly encouraging equipment to part with their inherent smoke component !
Can you please supply the list of vehicles you narrowed down? So far Nissan Xtrail..Subaru Forester...suzuki grand vitara.. but i noticed you had some 'except for' after 2008 because AWD vs 4x4... is there a more comprehensive list with caveats you developed?
Excellent video, Andrew, thanks.
I am sorry your but your voltage drop theory is wrong, I have a Projecta DBC150 battery isolator and have used for years $110 not so dear and automatic. Point is works fine charges the 2nd battery at 14.4 volts and the battery is always toped up ! And yes I think they probably use relays no other way to do it economically
You've made a few comments on this video, what's your problem?
Good info! Any link where to get the dc-dc converter?
It does not make much sense to me unless the dual battery system design is your major hobby. You can always buy a dual battery system controller like CTEK D250SA 12V 20A for 250 euros or so. And you can connect a solar panel, too.
Check out the traxide USI160 isolator. It’s a lot more advanced.
Hey there Ronnie ! It would be great if you could do a video on steel drop side trays verses aluminium tray backs , the pros and cons .......
What style of tray to suit the different ways of camping / 4wheeling ?? Cheers . from Alkimos
Rust and weight