So far so good. This was the hottest day of the year so far in my area and installing one of these up high in my son's room only allowed the temperature in his room to reach 75 degrees today. Yesterday (before installing the return air pathway) was a little cooler, but his room got up to 80. Seems to be doing its job.
@@trauma50disaster1 I actually have a couple of things going on in his room. I have a Smart Cocoon booster fan that sits in the floor register. On top of that, I have a Flair Smart Vent. I also have an Ecobee room temperature sensor in his room. If the temperature ever falls below the setpoint on my Ecobee Smart Thermostat in cooling mode, the Flair Vent will close. That hardly ever happens though. If in cooling mode, the temperature in his room gets above 75 but below 77, the Smart Cocoon booster fan will come on at around 60% speed to help pull more cooling air into his room. If the temperature gets above 77, the Smart Cocoon booster fan will go to full speed at 100%. 78 is the temperature where he starts complaining so I try to keep the temperature in his room below that. Keep in mind that I have schedules setup on my Ecobee thermostat. The hottest time of the day usually falls on the Noon and Evening schedule so I make sure that the Ecobee thermostat averages the temperature in the hottest rooms which are his room and my daughter's room. I use Home Assistant and the Flair to automate a lot of this stuff. However, from what I've read, I may be able to either tint his windows or invest in some better room darkening shades to help with climbing temperature in his room. The windows in my kid's room face the south so that's really the big problem. The return air pathway definitely helps though, but only when he keeps the door in his room fully closed. He leaves it open partially sometimes and I've told him that he won't get good air circulation in his room like that because his floor vent is right next to the door and a large return vent is right outside his room in the hallway. Cool air is probably pulled right out into the hallway before it can circulate in his room. What else helps is that fact that the rest of my house gets really cool. Especially the basement which dips into the 60's. When the AC is not running, the furnace fan circulates air throughout my house. During circulation mode, I have my system set to open up all the Flair Smart vents in my house to help with circulation.
The product was Easy to install th-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5T and runs well. I was a little disappointed some of the app features aren't supported (maybe because this is an older model). Note for anyone buying this that the feature in the app to monitor power usage won't show up, because it isn't supported, but will be there for certain Midea AC's. Other than a few of the features in the app missing, everything else went smoothly. I had picked up an additional thing of sticky insulation for the window, but everything else was included in the box.
Man. I HOPE this works for my son's room. It's a south facing room on the 2nd story of our house. Plus, he always has his gaming computer on which acts like a space heater almost. I know that the hot air is just getting trapped in his room. Luckily, there is a large return duct right outside his room in the hallway. I'm hoping that one of these mounted up high will help pull the hot air into the hallway. My daughter also has a south facing room, but there is a return air vent in her room. Here room can get toasty, but is usually always cooler than his.
I practically live in a box and need a way to cool down my room..I had an air conditioner that is supposed to perform good in a much larger room but my rooms set up is just not set up to hold in anything other than the heat
I want one of these going into my bathroom from the back room/laundry room because there's no furnace duct work to heat my bathroom; I do have an in ceiling light & heater thats only used when showering. Where do I purchase this 'honey comb" vent? I live in Lafayette, Indiana.
A10Toes---This will not heat or cool a room like you are thinking. It is designed to draw air into or out a room that has an air supply to equal the pressure in the room or rooms. For example if the only return you had in the house was in the hallway and you had all the bedroom doors closed, the return would have a tough time drawing in enough air to run efficiently. So these things create a way for the return in the hall to get the air out of the bedrooms if the doors are closed. Hope this helps explain how these things work. All you really need to do is cut an opening on each side of the door way like shown and just use a vent grate on each side, you do not need the honeycomb insert thing they are selling. This will accomplish the same results.
i have a double wide mobile home and have no air returns vents in the walls and i notice with the heat or ac is on, it will always run and the main living area has a hotter or colder temp compared to the bedrooms also the furnace is located in the laundry room and it is all by itself... with a door going into the laundry room and a door going outside....so when you open the door to the laundry room with door knob on the right ,it swings in word and block the furnace vents if left open also there is one vent in the room on the floor for heat or cold air. i would like to add in takes, should i add them to every room so when the door are shut there is flow..,
Is this available in a way we can close in the winter? Heat rises, so we want the duct to pull hot air from the top of the room in the summer. Then close in the winter - forcing the colder air near the floor out under the door. Or am I smoking something? :)
I'm going be installing these at home. Hoping I can just get a register with the open/close lever at one of the big box stores that isn't too deep. If it is, might just take some thickness off of the honeycomb baffle. May work, may not. We shall see.
I just bought 3 of these for use in 3 bedrooms. I just realized that the flanges on the ducts are on the outside of the drywall, which means that when you attach the grill to the duct, there is nothing preventing the duct and grill from sliding out of the wall. Has anyone devised a workaround solution for this?
@@kevenc I ended up putting one end of it right against a stud. On the other end, I added a small section of 2x4 inside the wall, which I attached to the drywall with screws. Then, I screwed the flanges on both sides to the 2x4s (through the grill). Now, the grill is attached solid to the wall, but the inner duct is still free to move a little. An improvement would be to add washers under the grill to hold the duct solid to the wall. Perhaps that is a little overkill.
Slap a couple small 2x4s in between. Shabaaam! Problem Solved. I prefer NOT to attach to studs to help aid in sound absorption. Just let it float... Everything attached to a stud is going to reverberate them sound waves. Especially a metal grille with screws.
The Wall Transfer Grilles / Return Air Pathway's are not made to install into a ceiling. These are wall-mounted options. However, if you want to buy it and see if it helps you can but it is not recommended in that application and there would not be any instructions or technical help to install it into the ceiling.
No, you don't want attic air in your living space. Attiv air has too much dust, fiberglass, or cellulose floating around in it. Not to mention the air in your attic is usually very hot in the summer, and very cold in the winter, that would not help your energy efficiency.
how did you start the cut on the drywall with just a cutting saw? I saw on another YT video that you had to use a drill and make a round hole to start your cut Can you tell me how you started that cut with just a cutting saw?
Usually the blade has a sharp pointed end and you just put the tip on the line and use the palm of your hand and punch it through the drywall and you are on your way.
The duct and honeycomb are for sound privacy and light blocking. If you don't care that your kids hear you boinking their mother then by all means do what you did.
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So far so good. This was the hottest day of the year so far in my area and installing one of these up high in my son's room only allowed the temperature in his room to reach 75 degrees today. Yesterday (before installing the return air pathway) was a little cooler, but his room got up to 80. Seems to be doing its job.
how's it going now, would you suggest anything different? I'm in same situation with my kids. What about take some off of the bottom of the door?
@@trauma50disaster1 I actually have a couple of things going on in his room. I have a Smart Cocoon booster fan that sits in the floor register. On top of that, I have a Flair Smart Vent. I also have an Ecobee room temperature sensor in his room. If the temperature ever falls below the setpoint on my Ecobee Smart Thermostat in cooling mode, the Flair Vent will close. That hardly ever happens though. If in cooling mode, the temperature in his room gets above 75 but below 77, the Smart Cocoon booster fan will come on at around 60% speed to help pull more cooling air into his room. If the temperature gets above 77, the Smart Cocoon booster fan will go to full speed at 100%. 78 is the temperature where he starts complaining so I try to keep the temperature in his room below that. Keep in mind that I have schedules setup on my Ecobee thermostat. The hottest time of the day usually falls on the Noon and Evening schedule so I make sure that the Ecobee thermostat averages the temperature in the hottest rooms which are his room and my daughter's room. I use Home Assistant and the Flair to automate a lot of this stuff. However, from what I've read, I may be able to either tint his windows or invest in some better room darkening shades to help with climbing temperature in his room. The windows in my kid's room face the south so that's really the big problem. The return air pathway definitely helps though, but only when he keeps the door in his room fully closed. He leaves it open partially sometimes and I've told him that he won't get good air circulation in his room like that because his floor vent is right next to the door and a large return vent is right outside his room in the hallway. Cool air is probably pulled right out into the hallway before it can circulate in his room. What else helps is that fact that the rest of my house gets really cool. Especially the basement which dips into the 60's. When the AC is not running, the furnace fan circulates air throughout my house. During circulation mode, I have my system set to open up all the Flair Smart vents in my house to help with circulation.
@@trauma50disaster1 Nah, heat rises so the escape hatch should be up high.
The product was Easy to install th-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5T and runs well. I was a little disappointed some of the app features aren't supported (maybe because this is an older model). Note for anyone buying this that the feature in the app to monitor power usage won't show up, because it isn't supported, but will be there for certain Midea AC's. Other than a few of the features in the app missing, everything else went smoothly. I had picked up an additional thing of sticky insulation for the window, but everything else was included in the box.
Man. I HOPE this works for my son's room. It's a south facing room on the 2nd story of our house. Plus, he always has his gaming computer on which acts like a space heater almost. I know that the hot air is just getting trapped in his room. Luckily, there is a large return duct right outside his room in the hallway. I'm hoping that one of these mounted up high will help pull the hot air into the hallway. My daughter also has a south facing room, but there is a return air vent in her room. Here room can get toasty, but is usually always cooler than his.
I practically live in a box and need a way to cool down my room..I had an air conditioner that is supposed to perform good in a much larger room but my rooms set up is just not set up to hold in anything other than the heat
are the provided screwed meant to attach to a stud or straight into the drywall? I assume if into drywall, anchors would have to be used.
It looks like from this video that they could be affixed either way. Thanks for watching!
I want one of these going into my bathroom from the back room/laundry room because there's no furnace duct work to heat my bathroom; I do have an in ceiling light & heater thats only used when showering. Where do I purchase this 'honey comb" vent? I live in Lafayette, Indiana.
A10Toes---This will not heat or cool a room like you are thinking. It is designed to draw air into or out a room that has an air supply to equal the pressure in the room or rooms. For example if the only return you had in the house was in the hallway and you had all the bedroom doors closed, the return would have a tough time drawing in enough air to run efficiently. So these things create a way for the return in the hall to get the air out of the bedrooms if the doors are closed. Hope this helps explain how these things work. All you really need to do is cut an opening on each side of the door way like shown and just use a vent grate on each side, you do not need the honeycomb insert thing they are selling. This will accomplish the same results.
Yeah, and the kids can hear whatever parents are arguing about...
So... maybe they will learn something about your secretive ass. What are you afraid of?
Or, don't have children.
Probably about why they had kids.
In the two previous houses I’ve lived in, a return air vent was in the master bedroom and this setup was in the other bedrooms to prevent that.
How do you know if you have the type of wall that allows for this installation?
i have a double wide mobile home and have no air returns vents in the walls and i notice with the heat or ac is on, it will always run and the main living area has a hotter or colder temp compared to the bedrooms also the furnace is located in the laundry room and it is all by itself... with a door going into the laundry room and a door going outside....so when you open the door to the laundry room with door knob on the right ,it swings in word and block the furnace vents if left open also there is one vent in the room on the floor for heat or cold air. i would like to add in takes, should i add them to every room so when the door are shut there is flow..,
Sounds like you might need a vented door to allow air into the laundry room.
Is this available in a way we can close in the winter? Heat rises, so we want the duct to pull hot air from the top of the room in the summer. Then close in the winter - forcing the colder air near the floor out under the door. Or am I smoking something? :)
I'm going be installing these at home. Hoping I can just get a register with the open/close lever at one of the big box stores that isn't too deep. If it is, might just take some thickness off of the honeycomb baffle. May work, may not. We shall see.
Sounds good has any one tried this and what were the results??
What is the honeycomb for?
I just bought 3 of these for use in 3 bedrooms. I just realized that the flanges on the ducts are on the outside of the drywall, which means that when you attach the grill to the duct, there is nothing preventing the duct and grill from sliding out of the wall. Has anyone devised a workaround solution for this?
Seems like when you screw into the drywall it would prevent movement. If you wanted it to be more secure, you could try some good drywall anchors.
@@kevenc I ended up putting one end of it right against a stud. On the other end, I added a small section of 2x4 inside the wall, which I attached to the drywall with screws. Then, I screwed the flanges on both sides to the 2x4s (through the grill). Now, the grill is attached solid to the wall, but the inner duct is still free to move a little. An improvement would be to add washers under the grill to hold the duct solid to the wall. Perhaps that is a little overkill.
Slap a couple small 2x4s in between. Shabaaam! Problem Solved. I prefer NOT to attach to studs to help aid in sound absorption. Just let it float... Everything attached to a stud is going to reverberate them sound waves. Especially a metal grille with screws.
Can you do this from the attic? I don’t have a return in my big master bedroom and the air quality is horrible dry and very uncomfortable to sleep
The Wall Transfer Grilles / Return Air Pathway's are not made to install into a ceiling. These are wall-mounted options. However, if you want to buy it and see if it helps you can but it is not recommended in that application and there would not be any instructions or technical help to install it into the ceiling.
No, you don't want attic air in your living space. Attiv air has too much dust, fiberglass, or cellulose floating around in it. Not to mention the air in your attic is usually very hot in the summer, and very cold in the winter, that would not help your energy efficiency.
What dealer can fob this job in Canada
👍
how did you start the cut on the drywall with just a cutting saw?
I saw on another YT video that you had to use a drill and make a round hole to start your cut
Can you tell me how you started that cut with just a cutting saw?
Usually the blade has a sharp pointed end and you just put the tip on the line and use the palm of your hand and punch it through the drywall and you are on your way.
Or drill a hole in the middle then start cutting toward the outside
@@TheGregWallace This blade is known as a drywall saw. They're $8, go buy one and toss it in the toolbox.
how does this give more air to furnace ?
It just allows hot or cold air depending on the season to return to the central air. When the door is closed air can't return
It's actually very important to air flow in between rooms if you DO NOT have a dedicated air return in each room.
What is that honeycomb cardboard thing? Where can it be purchased?
Never mind. Found it is sold at Home Depot. Very expensive $50 for one 12x6. Forget it.
I just cut a hole and threw to plates. Works fine. Don't care for the sound
The duct and honeycomb are for sound privacy and light blocking. If you don't care that your kids hear you boinking their mother then by all means do what you did.
can i use this for aircon?
What do you do if there are studs on the framing of the door?
You do not have to go up over the door going through the wall where studs are not an issue would be the next step.
Fixed it for you:
You do not have to go up over the door. Going through the wall where studs are not an issue would be the next step.
Sell your house and start over.
@@Dipp182 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
WRONG! Do not call this hack!