If you want to order one of the Water Keys as shown in the video, go here: amzn.to/2PrNlVJ If you need the Fire Hydrant Adapter, go here: amzn.to/2PqvGNN
Videobob is Solid GOLD - Whether your in any RV or cruzZze'n in style in a Prevost V-Bob is full of good advice. Just a down home, unpretentious good guy. Thanx for all your time earned wisdom. ~ your neighbor
I ordered a hydrant reducer to garden hose thread off Amazon and because of how the threads start immediately on the female side it won't allow me to thread to hydrant. (The hydrants have about a 1/16" of metal before the threads start) thinking I just have the wrong kind of reducer but wanted to see if you had any idea what the solution may be or if you have seen this before? Any help is appreciated
Okay let me start by saying I am by NO MEANS any sort of plumber or engineer or handyman - but I’ve brainstormed a few ideas that might be worth trying… 1.) you could try to ‘extend’ the threads on your reducer using 60 second instant gasket maker (very cheap at autozone) it’s flexible, durable, quick setting, and you can find it in cans with very thin nozzles… maybe build one layer at a time, letting it dry in between? Then Teflon tape around the outside of the connection once you get it on? I’d say this is maybe a 4/10 2.) perhaps you could make a careful cut between the end cap of your reducer and where the actual threading starts, then inbetween add on an additional 1./16” using flex seal (silicone caulk or gasket maker or plumbers putty MIGHT work but honestly, flex seal is sooo ideal) you could try to screw it on when the add-on is half set, so it moulds to the threading. (Add some lubrication so the material doesn’t stick and harden on the hydrant) downside: the pressure might just blow it apart. I would reinforce the flex seal putty with flex seal spray or tape, or both. 5.5/10 3.) this one might take a bit more arts & crafts know how… you’ve already got your reducer which you know has the right size and shape for the threading, it’s just that extra gap that’s messing you up. Using 100% silicone caulk (I would buy the type in a squeeze tube, but that’s just for ease of use.) using your reducer, make a mound of the threading inside, and allow the silicone to pool beneath the reducer encompassing the ‘lip’ or outer edge and about 1/2” at least up the other side. This will help your final piece with stability. After 36-48 hours you have a depression mould for your reducer extension. (Using mould release from craft store, or some other type of lubrication that you can completely wash off might help keep the reducer from sticking) Fill the mould in with resin/epoxy. Casting epoxy is what you’re looking for, and If you go to the craft store for it you’ll probably be able to find the mould making materials there as well. Fill it in small layers, no more than 1/8” at a time, using a heat gun or blow dryer to bring up and pop any bubbles in the mould each layer. Allow it to dry totally before adding another, the packaging should have estimated curing times. I would sand the outside of the reducer lightly to aid adhesion. Usually a thin layer of resin brushed on the connecting piece, allowed to harden till it’s tacky would be the way to join…. But in this case you wanna go with a very tough epoxy. Some type of JB weld product (available at hardware stores and autozone) would be good to connect, also lightly sanding the edge of the extension piece. I would also reinforce my connection with flex seal or plumbers putty (really any plumbing adhesives that could help) before wrapping the seam tightly with flex tape or fiberglass epoxy tape. Allow to cure totally. 7/10. 4.) pick a different hydrant lol Hopefully this helps you get the ball rolling and brainstorm a solution! Let me know what happens :)
Maybe from a hydrant, not sure the charge or crime from a business, maybe trespassing? The thing is this, if you are in an expensive rig, and you a nice and cool and get "caught", and just say, "Hey, I needed some water in an emergency, sorry about that" and toss the guy a $20 or something, all will be forgiven. It's all about how you handle things. The manager of a huge store doesn't care if a guy in a half a million dollar bus is using some of his water, the lock is there to keep the homeless crackhead from taking a nude shower behind the building and then leaving the water running... stuff like that.
If you want to order one of the Water Keys as shown in the video, go here:
amzn.to/2PrNlVJ
If you need the Fire Hydrant Adapter, go here:
amzn.to/2PqvGNN
I love how ballsy you are that your willing to just be totally honest with people makes me have the smilies.💓😍
Videobob is Solid GOLD - Whether your in any RV or cruzZze'n in style in a Prevost V-Bob is full of good advice. Just a down home, unpretentious good guy. Thanx for all your time earned wisdom. ~ your neighbor
I ordered a hydrant reducer to garden hose thread off Amazon and because of how the threads start immediately on the female side it won't allow me to thread to hydrant. (The hydrants have about a 1/16" of metal before the threads start) thinking I just have the wrong kind of reducer but wanted to see if you had any idea what the solution may be or if you have seen this before? Any help is appreciated
Okay let me start by saying I am by NO MEANS any sort of plumber or engineer or handyman - but I’ve brainstormed a few ideas that might be worth trying…
1.) you could try to ‘extend’ the threads on your reducer using 60 second instant gasket maker (very cheap at autozone) it’s flexible, durable, quick setting, and you can find it in cans with very thin nozzles… maybe build one layer at a time, letting it dry in between? Then Teflon tape around the outside of the connection once you get it on? I’d say this is maybe a 4/10
2.) perhaps you could make a careful cut between the end cap of your reducer and where the actual threading starts, then inbetween add on an additional 1./16” using flex seal (silicone caulk or gasket maker or plumbers putty MIGHT work but honestly, flex seal is sooo ideal) you could try to screw it on when the add-on is half set, so it moulds to the threading. (Add some lubrication so the material doesn’t stick and harden on the hydrant) downside: the pressure might just blow it apart. I would reinforce the flex seal putty with flex seal spray or tape, or both. 5.5/10
3.) this one might take a bit more arts & crafts know how… you’ve already got your reducer which you know has the right size and shape for the threading, it’s just that extra gap that’s messing you up. Using 100% silicone caulk (I would buy the type in a squeeze tube, but that’s just for ease of use.) using your reducer, make a mound of the threading inside, and allow the silicone to pool beneath the reducer encompassing the ‘lip’ or outer edge and about 1/2” at least up the other side. This will help your final piece with stability.
After 36-48 hours you have a depression mould for your reducer extension. (Using mould release from craft store, or some other type of lubrication that you can completely wash off might help keep the reducer from sticking)
Fill the mould in with resin/epoxy. Casting epoxy is what you’re looking for, and If you go to the craft store for it you’ll probably be able to find the mould making materials there as well. Fill it in small layers, no more than 1/8” at a time, using a heat gun or blow dryer to bring up and pop any bubbles in the mould each layer. Allow it to dry totally before adding another, the packaging should have estimated curing times.
I would sand the outside of the reducer lightly to aid adhesion. Usually a thin layer of resin brushed on the connecting piece, allowed to harden till it’s tacky would be the way to join…. But in this case you wanna go with a very tough epoxy. Some type of JB weld product (available at hardware stores and autozone) would be good to connect, also lightly sanding the edge of the extension piece.
I would also reinforce my connection with flex seal or plumbers putty (really any plumbing adhesives that could help) before wrapping the seam tightly with flex tape or fiberglass epoxy tape. Allow to cure totally.
7/10.
4.) pick a different hydrant lol
Hopefully this helps you get the ball rolling and brainstorm a solution! Let me know what happens :)
Also, my friend just drilled a hole in the regular metal cap and hammered a hose bib into it
Really Cool Guy. Now I'm thinking of RV'ing in Vegas.
Basic, but great tips.
Thanks bob!
Very good vid is the fire hose adapter 3" 2 1/2 or 1 1/2
This was good video. Thanks
Good stuff keep it up
Great tips! 😊🤙
Stealing water can definitely get you in trouble.. keep that in mind.
Maybe from a hydrant, not sure the charge or crime from a business, maybe trespassing?
The thing is this, if you are in an expensive rig, and you a nice and cool and get "caught", and just say, "Hey, I needed some water in an emergency, sorry about that"
and toss the guy a $20 or something, all will be forgiven. It's all about how you handle things.
The manager of a huge store doesn't care if a guy in a half a million dollar bus is using some of his water, the lock is there to keep the homeless crackhead from taking a nude shower behind the building and then leaving the water running... stuff like that.
"emergency"... Just rename this video to "How to steal water"